Hi Sir. Your video is very good. Nice resolution too. I have a problem here. The repair guy say my front calipers are slight jamming the brake discs & need calibration. Is there auch things as caliper calibration & how do i unjam the caliper?
Depends what he ment by calibration. If something is out of line such as the discs then this could indicate a warped disc or the runoff on the pads by misaligned calipers, may due to the hub bearing. I've never seen it so all I can say is if there is an alignment issue then renew whatever is causing it. If it is jamming as you say, I would strip down the brakes and repeatedly push - in and pump out the piston a number of times the free up the piston so to stop it binding or simply buy a new or two new calipers and don't forget to bleed the system fully before everything really. :-)
Thanks Green Chilly, I will be doing more videos on service items from time to time. Doing a vid of everything you need to check on a car would be very long, but thankyou for the idea, I will look into what I could do :-)
Good vid, thanks. Usually the front pads have the wear sensor, yours didn't? Also, I would always use a torque wrench to tighten the wheel bolts once the car is on the ground again.
This model didn't come with wear sensors, but if you have them you need to connect them. Good to hear you use a torque wrench as it is important to torque wheel bolts to the specified torque evenly.
Never put Loctite on the actual pins, they need silcone grease. The threads though, good quetion; I guess a definitive answer has to come from Audi, but they have never tell me what they use and dealers just want you to bring your can in if you seem worried when mentioning brakes. New pins come with some form of threadlocker on them and seem to vary between manufacturer. I use medium general purpose threadlocker to eliminate any vibrations causing the pins to loosen. Red is stronger than blue, make sure it is removable. I use 243.
What dimensions did you install? There are several dimensions for this specific model ranging from 253 to 345 mm diameter, but I cant find which ones are the most suitable.
@@HatBoyHarvey Thanks for answering 🙂 I’ve managed to find a part code list on the inside of my trunk, where it says “1ZF”, meaning they are definitely 280mm in diameter. Now you have just confirmed it for me 🙂
Hey, what is the name of that copper (?) thing you use before putting the brake disc on? I couldn't quite catch the words you're saying and I've never heard of it, I apologize.
You can take both pads out before you compress the piston if you like.I kept the piston one in to enable the clamp to compress on the piston evenly without damaging the end of the piston or the gator. If you want to re-use the pads you can't use this method. The piston can be pushed back using a large blunt screwdriver/chisel, but care is needed when you do this.
I changed the brakes on our A3 with my dad yesterday we didnt now what to do because he is a carpenter and I have my first year at school Engineering and industrial production in Norway and my second year I will take become a car-mechanic
8 year old car with average highway mileage and original discs and pads from new. This was the car's first ever replacement brake install. Brake disc and pad wear varies on the terrain and driving style.
HAT BOY HARVEY Looks like your weather conditions are very damp and wet. I’m getting ready to do this job on a 2006 audi. Where did you order your parts?
We hardly get hot weather here, always raining. I always fit good quality parts and brakes are no exception. If you live in a warmer climate then good pads are needed that work well in the heat. Ask at your local motor factors for best branded pads at reasonable cost available in your country as manufacturers vary from country to country. many are available online to find them cheaper mind.
Hi, what size is the G-clamp that you use to screw the piston back with the old brake pad? Also, you mention taking care with this, what do I need to look out for, what damage can be caused?
If the piston seems tight it can jamb if you continue an wreck the cylinder bore and caliper. If it becomes tight, back it off and push the piston out again with the pedal and try again, do that a few times until it eases up. G clamp is - just nip to garage - Mine is a number 4 which is just over 7'' long and are great for this :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey I have no connection on either sides at the front, yet when I run back the pads I have purchased, they appear to be the correct ones every time. Very confused. I am wondering if they'll fit and maybe just to chop the wire off the pad that has the cable
HAT BOY HARVEY i don’t know if perhaps your A3 doesn’t have it but yesterday I learnt that the front brake calipers have a spring that clamp the pads down.
Yes, some models have these to stabilize the outer pad wear I believe. If they are fitted, it is important to clean them up and replace them in their original position in order to work correctly. I would fit new ones if they were damaged in any way.
Brilliant video. Really crystal-clear manual. Thanks a lot.
Thanks, I really appreciate that. Glad to be of help:-)
Didn’t realise Audi made bikes lol
Was about to flick over to another channel.😁
Perfect instructional video, thank you. Make many more videos of this quality please.
Thanks, will do!
Probably the most important thing in any vehicle maintenance work is the cup of tea !
Do you have the rear video 1:05 for this vehicle I have a stuck caliper and mine has the emergency brake attached looks tuff with that
Audi A3 rear brakes: ua-cam.com/video/jJ6ZJy1300k/v-deo.html
Hi Sir. Your video is very good. Nice resolution too.
I have a problem here. The repair guy say my front calipers are slight jamming the brake discs & need calibration. Is there auch things as caliper calibration & how do i unjam the caliper?
Depends what he ment by calibration. If something is out of line such as the discs then this could indicate a warped disc or the runoff on the pads by misaligned calipers, may due to the hub bearing. I've never seen it so all I can say is if there is an alignment issue then renew whatever is causing it. If it is jamming as you say, I would strip down the brakes and repeatedly push - in and pump out the piston a number of times the free up the piston so to stop it binding or simply buy a new or two new calipers and don't forget to bleed the system fully before everything really. :-)
Best description👍🏻💪🏻
Thanks :-)
Awesome Mate, you just saved me $200 bux for mechenic making me fool
Really good videos, thank you. Going to do my rear pads and discs tomorrow.
Thanks Mar Jon, Glad my videos help
Thanks for posting both of these videos! They are very helpful! You’ve already made my project easier!
Thanks Levi for your kind words, glad the videos were helpful :-)
The outstanding, very informative and detailing video. Just wondering, would be great if you could make full servicing video.
Thanks Green Chilly, I will be doing more videos on service items from time to time. Doing a vid of everything you need to check on a car would be very long, but thankyou for the idea, I will look into what I could do :-)
Good vid, thanks. Usually the front pads have the wear sensor, yours didn't? Also, I would always use a torque wrench to tighten the wheel bolts once the car is on the ground again.
This model didn't come with wear sensors, but if you have them you need to connect them. Good to hear you use a torque wrench as it is important to torque wheel bolts to the specified torque evenly.
The wear sensor is on the near side calliper.
@@ultimateoutdoors4659 I don't have a wear sensor on either the front left or front right. I am so confused. I have the 2010 1.6 TDI Sportback
Thank you... and a tip of my hat to you!
Thank you. Sir, I also doff my hat in appreciation of the kindliness :-)
Do u have any video how to do the bleeding system?
Sorry, not for the Audi. I will put this on my video list, thanks :-)
Great video
Many thanks
very helpful video many thanks
You're very welcome, glad it was helpful :-)
Can you please show how to change the kopefifte?
do you mean the foot brake switch?
hi sir! excellent video. explanations and details however can you tell me which loctite you use to lubricate the pins. thanks alot for your help!
Never put Loctite on the actual pins, they need silcone grease. The threads though, good quetion; I guess a definitive answer has to come from Audi, but they have never tell me what they use and dealers just want you to bring your can in if you seem worried when mentioning brakes. New pins come with some form of threadlocker on them and seem to vary between manufacturer. I use medium general purpose threadlocker to eliminate any vibrations causing the pins to loosen. Red is stronger than blue, make sure it is removable. I use 243.
Thanks man.
You are very welcome :-)
What are the tightening torques for the bolts on the caliper to carrier?
It depends upon your specific brake calliper model? FN-3 calliper is 25Nm for guide pins, but yours maybe different.
error "brake pads" ?
What dimensions did you install? There are several dimensions for this specific model ranging from 253 to 345 mm diameter, but I cant find which ones are the most suitable.
280mm for this model and engine. Check when ordering against your particular model/engine. :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey Thanks for answering 🙂 I’ve managed to find a part code list on the inside of my trunk, where it says “1ZF”, meaning they are definitely 280mm in diameter. Now you have just confirmed it for me 🙂
Hey, what is the name of that copper (?) thing you use before putting the brake disc on? I couldn't quite catch the words you're saying and I've never heard of it, I apologize.
Copper ease or copper grease to stop seizing :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey Thank you. It is named weirdly in my country and didn't show up when I searched copper grease. Cheers!
I wanna change the brake disc cover the dust guard, myself, can you please tell me are the screws the same size as the rotor screws T30
I believe they are T30, but the rotor one is countersunk head :-)
daft question i know but how big a G clamp do I need, they seem to come in 1,2 or 3inch
Not at all, I use a 4" or 100mm Record classic G clamp :-)
Was the piston compressed to remove the pad, or can the pad be removed without ?
You can take both pads out before you compress the piston if you like.I kept the piston one in to enable the clamp to compress on the piston evenly without damaging the end of the piston or the gator. If you want to re-use the pads you can't use this method. The piston can be pushed back using a large blunt screwdriver/chisel, but care is needed when you do this.
the pad with the sensor is on the other side?
Thanks for watching, always re-fit the wear indicator (if one is fitted) making sure of a good contact, possibly use electrical contact spray also.
How would you know how much you have to tighten the bolts to the carrier.
Use a torque wrench set at 35Nm for this model I believe, but best to check your specific car and engine.
@@HatBoyHarvey thanks
I changed the brakes on our A3 with my dad yesterday we didnt now what to do because he is a carpenter and I have my first year at school Engineering and industrial production in Norway and my second year I will take become a car-mechanic
Thank you for watching, glad it helped :-)
how many kilometers where on your vehicle when you did this job?
8 year old car with average highway mileage and original discs and pads from new. This was the car's first ever replacement brake install. Brake disc and pad wear varies on the terrain and driving style.
HAT BOY HARVEY Looks like your weather conditions are very damp and wet. I’m getting ready to do this job on a 2006 audi. Where did you order your parts?
We hardly get hot weather here, always raining. I always fit good quality parts and brakes are no exception. If you live in a warmer climate then good pads are needed that work well in the heat. Ask at your local motor factors for best branded pads at reasonable cost available in your country as manufacturers vary from country to country. many are available online to find them cheaper mind.
Hi, what size is the G-clamp that you use to screw the piston back with the old brake pad? Also, you mention taking care with this, what do I need to look out for, what damage can be caused?
If the piston seems tight it can jamb if you continue an wreck the cylinder bore and caliper. If it becomes tight, back it off and push the piston out again with the pedal and try again, do that a few times until it eases up. G clamp is - just nip to garage - Mine is a number 4 which is just over 7'' long and are great for this :-)
TY
you're very welcome, thanks for watching :-)
I wish somebody put out a video how to take the carrier out.
I bought some brake pads and only one set doesnt have an electrical connection
I believe there is only one connection on the left front (UK) or near side only.
@@HatBoyHarvey I have no connection on either sides at the front, yet when I run back the pads I have purchased, they appear to be the correct ones every time. Very confused. I am wondering if they'll fit and maybe just to chop the wire off the pad that has the cable
About to do this for my gf. Those calipers are so little, I thought maybe they were the rear calipers.
This is only the 1.6 and not so powerful compared to the faster audis :-)
Thats why i don’t even bother using gloves.. they don’t even last 5 minutes
I'm beginning to think the same, I went through two pairs of these in doing this vid
HAT BOY HARVEY i don’t know if perhaps your A3 doesn’t have it but yesterday I learnt that the front brake calipers have a spring that clamp the pads down.
Yes, some models have these to stabilize the outer pad wear I believe. If they are fitted, it is important to clean them up and replace them in their original position in order to work correctly. I would fit new ones if they were damaged in any way.