This has to be one of my favorite videos to explain how to install or fix something, it is so simple and the video is not 20 minutes dancing around what needs to be fixed. Thank you.
What a great video. And what a great explanation. No constant "go ahead and", "go ahead and", " go ahead and" verbal filler over and over and over. Just the instructions on how to do the job. Subscribed!
As a locksmith, I really appreciate these videos in regards to install technique. The sagging top hinge fix video is another favorite of mine so far. Thanks for the laughs AND tips!
I am so glad I found this video. Huge help to me, didn't know I could slide it over to make it longer. I bought 4 different locks the past month thinking i was buying the wrong type lol.
I bought a new lockset once before I learned that changing the key (up/down) orientation was as easy as it is. I don’t do enough of it that I can remember how, but I know it can be done.
Amazingly helpful hints man! Specially manipulating the strick plate with screw driver!!! I didn't know this one. Thank you so much for teaching this. I'm grateful 🙏
For what I have seen maintenance techs do in my almost 20 years in property maintenance, this one is common where they would just strike the latch with a hammer or channel locks. Then they wonder why the latch wont retract. Great advice for using a piece of wood to equal out the pressure. For anyone having an issue with their door latch or deadbolt, property maintenance or DYiers, there is a new solution that replaces Glue, Sticks, Puddy, or that ugly metal sleeve that goes over your door. ReSecure Latch sits INSIDE the door bore hole, alongside the latch, and the supplied screws thread into it. Works with many of the top brands like Kwikset, Defiant, Yale, and others. After watching the many videos Funny Carpenter has on DYi repairs, come check out how it works. Hopefully one day to have in inside box stores like Depot and Lowes.
Dude, Thanks! My husband's out of town and I've got 6 knobs that just came in the mail for my basement build and I'm going to try to do them myself. After I get my two hours of floor tile grouting done.... It'll be more fun than grouting.
Excellent tips, love the hammer and board tip. I don’t have a drill but I may consider getting one. I haven’t changed a doorknob in a long time but I think I will change my front doorknob soon so appreciate all these tips.
Good video as always. For repairing old holes, I use glue and a golf tee. Tees are made from hardwood and they break off flush when you hammer them in. Then you can re-drill the holes, usually with a self-centering bit. Sometimes I have even had to use some blue thread locker on old handles when the screws keep coming loose. Lots of good advice as always.
Thanks for this video..I've installed many but never knew about that plastic adjustment thingy..nice tips for us dummies thanks again...finally got the knob to sit right...
I was trying to be independent and do this, but I installed the latch and the door plate, I then shut the door and it latched, and I had no doorhandle obviously, so now I’m freaking stuck in my room and I don’t know what to do😭💀
Thank you, this was perfect information. I do have a trick on how to find the right areas to fit the 2 long screws into place; use a greasy pen to mark the center of the hole right on the door, this will guide you putting the knob in the right position. Once in, you can just wipe off these marks.
Great video as always bud!!! installing door knobs here in the Netherlands is much easier and im glad 🤣 still some really great and useful tips bud, love the video!!! have a great weekend bud!
The point of the screw pushes the fibers of the wood apart causing spliting, when you remove the point the screw is actually severing the fibers just as a drill bit does. The same trick can also be applied to nails hence why the older type nails had a square end to them amd did not slit the board.
Good tips. A self-centering drill bit works extremely well for strike plates, latches, and hinges. It's one of those inexpensive tools that makes the install that much better.
Exactly what I needed, thanks! Except one piece.. I don't have a mortise for the strike plate. Do you have any tips on cutting that correctly? Thanks for all of your content.
I have on old exterior door that had a latch like that. It finally broke after decades and I could not find a replacement for it. I gave up and had to get one with a plate. I bought a ryobi jig to recess the plate. It was a bit of a challenge and maybe not the best or prettiest job but it works.
I’m usually right on the same page with all this guy’s methods, but I put my striker plate on last. I’m even skeptical enough at my age to screw in the top screw of the plate, check it, then if I’m happy finish it. It’s more common to see MDF jambs now, so if there are any adjustments to make, having the whole plate on puts you in that awful “just off the existing hole predicament.” I think I’m checking each door because painters either jamb the stop with dap, or they paint the door using those dang rebar chairs stands or sawhorses. Basically wetting an already extra absorbent particleboard door, tipping on its side and letting gravity make a nice little bow. Tapping stops around and moving the striker plate in and out is the price for a perfect click.
I agree. I usually put the striker plate on last. I attach with one screw to make sure the door catches properly. Many times I've had to raise or lower the plate and I don't want to make a lot of holes.
What do you do when doors are slightly misaligned with their frame? I have brand new doors installed by the builder and can see that few of them are missing by a few millimeters and of course that is enough to not lock them up properly… all of them seems to be lifted, not sure if this is something every builder does because with the time doors will go down…(gravity always wins) do I need to tweak them on the hinges or reposition the plate? Thanks for the video!
I install door hardware everyday for my day job, to keep the door for rattling you always want to adjust the strike plate by moving it back a little, yes you can bend the tab but you never want to bend that too much because it just looks unprofessional, so moving that strike plate back and the cutting around and chiseling out the excess is the way to go.
Me struggling with lock then wondering what im going to do because it seems the handle doesnt fit. Then I find this video. "This part right here expands" Thanks a bunch was able to get it working just from that.
I live in a cold climate and have to change out the exterior doorknob every couple of years because the moist air is drawn out into the cold, depositing its water content as it leaves, and the knob ices up in the winter and rusts out in the summer. This evening, I followed a tip to make an air dam with high density closed cell foam (or as it's known in these parts, a patch cut from pipe insulation that I found against the wall behind the water heater). Definitely cut down on the air flow, but it made seeing the screw holes even harder, and that's the worst part of the job, especially if you don't have a separate interior flange as shown in this video. In a fit of insight (or as it's known in these parts, too soon old/too late smart), I took a sharpie and made myself a little cheat mark lined up with the screws, and nailed it (yswidt?) the first time. I was actually surprised that it worked so well, and then I was surprised that I never thought of it before, especially since it is in retrospect stupidly obvious. But there you go, maybe this will help someone else.
@ontheotherhand7627 I'm reading your comment here (from 7 months ago) on "Doorknob Installation Secrets From A Pro (How To)" Great tip to keep the door lock from rusting out for those living in Northern Climates. That's what I am going to do very soon. Arrival, just in time for winter in Alberta. Since posting, have you come across any videos showing how to use that pipe insulation to cut the air flow from seeping to the outside? I could sure use the visuals if you know of any? Thanks Big honk from Canada! Momzilla
@@momzilla9491 I'll try to find that video that gave the recommendation about the insulation. I remember that they just specified using closed cell foam insulation, and I used the pipe insulation just because it was what I had on hand that evening as I was replacing the rusted-out doorknob. I had to flatten it out and cut it to size. It was pretty self-evident about how to fit it in there. I haven't thought about it since (and would probably have been surprised to find it in there when I opened it next, but in retrospect I can say that it worked really well, and I had no further freeze-ups after doing that. If you can find some flat closed-cell insulation it would probably be easier because you won't have to flatten it out to get it to stick. My DD is living in the L48 now. I told her some of the projects I was working on and she asked, "You're getting ready for winter already?" I just laughed and laughed. Honk backatcha!
@@ontheotherhand7627 I know what the Lower 48 is, but what is a DD? LOL Thanks, I would really like to see that video. My kids lost their father pretty young, and I'm the one trying to pass on some skills that the boys should know. That's really rich. My dad wouldn't even take me fishing. Never raise a girl to be a bubble head! Love UA-cam tutorials!
@@momzilla9491 Found it! He makes this very clear. Another tip would be to drill a drip hole in the bottom of the exterior doorknob so that the moisure has a place to escape. ua-cam.com/video/MkgaZB03m58/v-deo.html DD= dear daughter
I usually screw the striker plate on backwards, so it will sit flush, then i cut around it with a utility knife. This way it doesn’t move around when you’re outlining it.
I cant line up the two screws that connect the back faceplate /bolt and lock key thing....arghhh are there any tips , if i just line up one screw is that good enough lol ?
I have a handle style. Everything seems to fit well, but when I go to put the screws in, they dont seem to reach enough. Could this be the depth of the hole/door is too long for the specific door handle I purchased?
Our doors have the rectangular plate around the latch on the edge of the door. Ours have square corners and the ones on the new door handles have rounded corners. Any suggestions for what to do?
The latch when you switched to the round instead of the rectangle piece. Mine that I'm trying to change has the round in the door how do I pop it out so I can put new latch mechanism in? Having troubles!
hi is there a way to fix a front door that locks only way? My stepfather installed a doorknob years ago and when someone leaves someone needs to lock the door behind them. I need to fix this door so i can free leave the house whenever i want and search for a job. please any help will be greatly appreciated
Was really hoping you’d show the more “standard” type doorknob. The kind without the “beauty plate” which covers the screws. Does ANYONE have an easier way to remove/replace those dang two screws?? The angle you that you have to attack them at, due to the knob being in the way, makes me lose my shit EVERY time!🤦🏻♂️
Most modern knobs will have a set screw that you can loosen so the knob comes off and gives you direct access to the screws. If the knob you are dealing with does not have this, then all you can do is use a long bit that gives you the best angle to the screw head.
We recently installed 6 new doors in which I had to do all the cutouts myself for the knob, latch etc. I was struggling so much with the plate that goes on the edge of the door(the plate that the tongue sticks out through". Sooo much cutting/tweaking to get the plate to sit right. It wasn't until the very last door that I looked deeper and realized I could have just put the cylinder in the door with the round part around the tongue and not use the plate at all. *sigh* Ah well. Live & learn right?
Drive-in latches and bolts are a bad idea. Over time the hole they are in will get larger then the latch has excess movement which can cause damage to the lock and mechanism plus the door will rattle more and the strike will not line up correctly.
I have witnessed the quality of passage sets drop, and the prices for quality hardware drop to a very low bar. Take your time to test, test, test how your passage set and latch are functioning as you install them, no matter how much you have spent on the hardware.
I put oak doors on and that is a different ball game these have glass in aswell one mistake and your f**ked took me a hour and half each door very hard and the doors to hang and line up were a task because they were so heavy
This has to be one of my favorite videos to explain how to install or fix something, it is so simple and the video is not 20 minutes dancing around what needs to be fixed. Thank you.
What a great video. And what a great explanation. No constant "go ahead and", "go ahead and", " go ahead and" verbal filler over and over and over. Just the instructions on how to do the job. Subscribed!
As a locksmith, I really appreciate these videos in regards to install technique. The sagging top hinge fix video is another favorite of mine so far. Thanks for the laughs AND tips!
I am so glad I found this video. Huge help to me, didn't know I could slide it over to make it longer. I bought 4 different locks the past month thinking i was buying the wrong type lol.
I bought a new lockset once before I learned that changing the key (up/down) orientation was as easy as it is.
I don’t do enough of it that I can remember how, but I know it can be done.
Agreed, best video ❤
Amazingly helpful hints man! Specially manipulating the strick plate with screw driver!!! I didn't know this one. Thank you so much for teaching this. I'm grateful 🙏
For what I have seen maintenance techs do in my almost 20 years in property maintenance, this one is common where they would just strike the latch with a hammer or channel locks. Then they wonder why the latch wont retract. Great advice for using a piece of wood to equal out the pressure.
For anyone having an issue with their door latch or deadbolt, property maintenance or DYiers, there is a new solution that replaces Glue, Sticks, Puddy, or that ugly metal sleeve that goes over your door. ReSecure Latch sits INSIDE the door bore hole, alongside the latch, and the supplied screws thread into it. Works with many of the top brands like Kwikset, Defiant, Yale, and others. After watching the many videos Funny Carpenter has on DYi repairs, come check out how it works. Hopefully one day to have in inside box stores like Depot and Lowes.
Where can I buy one of these. I have that problem and the sticks didnt work long. Can't find them on HD or lowes website.
I love your videos! You don't waste time with silly introductions and "entertainment." Very helpful!
Dude, Thanks! My husband's out of town and I've got 6 knobs that just came in the mail for my basement build and I'm going to try to do them myself. After I get my two hours of floor tile grouting done.... It'll be more fun than grouting.
Excellent tips, love the hammer and board tip. I don’t have a drill but I may consider getting one. I haven’t changed a doorknob in a long time but I think I will change my front doorknob soon so appreciate all these tips.
Good video as always.
For repairing old holes, I use glue and a golf tee. Tees are made from hardwood and they break off flush when you hammer them in. Then you can re-drill the holes, usually with a self-centering bit.
Sometimes I have even had to use some blue thread locker on old handles when the screws keep coming loose.
Lots of good advice as always.
I always used wood glue and toothpicks, but I definitely will store this tip in the ol noggin to use for next time I need it! Thanks for sharing this!
The golf tees of the old days (the wood ones) are like gold for your toolbox for door repairs.
BEAUTY!! good demo. Just changed out door mech to TouchPad and that was a trip. Got to chisel out areas 😵💫 all good and it works!
This helps a lot. We’ve all done deadbolts and stuff but to see a pro is great.
Thanks for this video..I've installed many but never knew about that plastic adjustment thingy..nice tips for us dummies thanks again...finally got the knob to sit right...
I was trying to be independent and do this, but I installed the latch and the door plate, I then shut the door and it latched, and I had no doorhandle obviously, so now I’m freaking stuck in my room and I don’t know what to do😭💀
Your a Saint, I wish, I saw this before my twenty doors. Fantastic instructions!!
Definitely saved me on this one thanks for the helpful tips. I'm used to the 2 piece doors knobs.
always a clear well produced video sir, thank you.
Thanks dude clear and compelling delivery 👊
Thank you, this was perfect information. I do have a trick on how to find the right areas to fit the 2 long screws into place; use a greasy pen to mark the center of the hole right on the door, this will guide you putting the knob in the right position. Once in, you can just wipe off these marks.
I feel like a complete man now. I was only half complete with your other video: taking off a door knob.
Thanks! Me, man. Roaaarrr. xD
GREAT information as always. Thanks
Great video as always bud!!! installing door knobs here in the Netherlands is much easier and im glad 🤣 still some really great and useful tips bud, love the video!!! have a great weekend bud!
Thanks Rushill, hope you have a great weekend to🍻🇨🇦
Great tips. Thanks for another helpful video. Please keep em coming. 👍
Thanks buddy, 🍻🍻I appreciate the support!
Like the strike plate tab trick - I'll have to try it out ! Keep physically sane we'd miss the weekly installments.
This is so helpful, thanks a lot!
Great video and tips for a newbie
Appreciate your help, very informative video :) Thumbs up!
Love your videos and information
Thank you very much for this great video...
Great tips, thanks
Excellent video
The point of the screw pushes the fibers of the wood apart causing spliting, when you remove the point the screw is actually severing the fibers just as a drill bit does. The same trick can also be applied to nails hence why the older type nails had a square end to them amd did not slit the board.
Just in case you used the impact and strip the screws in the frame, wood filler does a nice job of fixing that...I know a "guy" who did it...
Nice, thanks I learned something.
Painters tape helps hold the knob to the door while installing
Well done, sir!!! Thanks.
Good, thoughtful vid work.. Thanks.
Good tips. A self-centering drill bit works extremely well for strike plates, latches, and hinges. It's one of those inexpensive tools that makes the install that much better.
Excellent tip
I've never heard of that. I'm off to check it out :)
Your videos are so awesome!
Thanks a lot for the support! I'm glad you're enjoying them:)
Exactly what I needed, thanks! Except one piece.. I don't have a mortise for the strike plate. Do you have any tips on cutting that correctly? Thanks for all of your content.
I have on old exterior door that had a latch like that. It finally broke after decades and I could not find a replacement for it. I gave up and had to get one with a plate. I bought a ryobi jig to recess the plate. It was a bit of a challenge and maybe not the best or prettiest job but it works.
Excellent 👏
When i dont have a scrap of wood handy to push the latch in, i use a socket. Just like tapping in a bearing.
I’m usually right on the same page with all this guy’s methods, but I put my striker plate on last. I’m even skeptical enough at my age to screw in the top screw of the plate, check it, then if I’m happy finish it. It’s more common to see MDF jambs now, so if there are any adjustments to make, having the whole plate on puts you in that awful “just off the existing hole predicament.” I think I’m checking each door because painters either jamb the stop with dap, or they paint the door using those dang rebar chairs stands or sawhorses. Basically wetting an already extra absorbent particleboard door, tipping on its side and letting gravity make a nice little bow. Tapping stops around and moving the striker plate in and out is the price for a perfect click.
I agree. I usually put the striker plate on last. I attach with one screw to make sure the door catches properly. Many times I've had to raise or lower the plate and I don't want to make a lot of holes.
Thank you.. do you have a link to the door knob? Looks very nice...
What do you do when doors are slightly misaligned with their frame? I have brand new doors installed by the builder and can see that few of them are missing by a few millimeters and of course that is enough to not lock them up properly… all of them seems to be lifted, not sure if this is something every builder does because with the time doors will go down…(gravity always wins) do I need to tweak them on the hinges or reposition the plate? Thanks for the video!
I install door hardware everyday for my day job, to keep the door for rattling you always want to adjust the strike plate by moving it back a little, yes you can bend the tab but you never want to bend that too much because it just looks unprofessional, so moving that strike plate back and the cutting around and chiseling out the excess is the way to go.
That’s an excellent tip, thanks Bobby.
Thank you thank you thank you!!!!
Cutting off the tip of the screw is removing the wedge that splits the grain.
Thank you
Me struggling with lock then wondering what im going to do because it seems the handle doesnt fit. Then I find this video. "This part right here expands" Thanks a bunch was able to get it working just from that.
I live in a cold climate and have to change out the exterior doorknob every couple of years because the moist air is drawn out into the cold, depositing its water content as it leaves, and the knob ices up in the winter and rusts out in the summer.
This evening, I followed a tip to make an air dam with high density closed cell foam (or as it's known in these parts, a patch cut from pipe insulation that I found against the wall behind the water heater). Definitely cut down on the air flow, but it made seeing the screw holes even harder, and that's the worst part of the job, especially if you don't have a separate interior flange as shown in this video.
In a fit of insight (or as it's known in these parts, too soon old/too late smart), I took a sharpie and made myself a little cheat mark lined up with the screws, and nailed it (yswidt?) the first time. I was actually surprised that it worked so well, and then I was surprised that I never thought of it before, especially since it is in retrospect stupidly obvious.
But there you go, maybe this will help someone else.
@ontheotherhand7627 I'm reading your comment here (from 7 months ago) on "Doorknob Installation Secrets From A Pro (How To)" Great tip to keep the door lock from rusting out for those living in Northern Climates. That's what I am going to do very soon. Arrival, just in time for winter in Alberta.
Since posting, have you come across any videos showing how to use that pipe insulation to cut the air flow from seeping to the outside? I could sure use the visuals if you know of any?
Thanks
Big honk from Canada!
Momzilla
@@momzilla9491 I'll try to find that video that gave the recommendation about the insulation. I remember that they just specified using closed cell foam insulation, and I used the pipe insulation just because it was what I had on hand that evening as I was replacing the rusted-out doorknob. I had to flatten it out and cut it to size. It was pretty self-evident about how to fit it in there.
I haven't thought about it since (and would probably have been surprised to find it in there when I opened it next, but in retrospect I can say that it worked really well, and I had no further freeze-ups after doing that. If you can find some flat closed-cell insulation it would probably be easier because you won't have to flatten it out to get it to stick.
My DD is living in the L48 now. I told her some of the projects I was working on and she asked, "You're getting ready for winter already?" I just laughed and laughed.
Honk backatcha!
@@ontheotherhand7627 I know what the Lower 48 is, but what is a DD? LOL
Thanks, I would really like to see that video.
My kids lost their father pretty young, and I'm the one trying to pass on some skills that the boys should know.
That's really rich. My dad wouldn't even take me fishing. Never raise a girl to be a bubble head!
Love UA-cam tutorials!
@@momzilla9491 Found it! He makes this very clear. Another tip would be to drill a drip hole in the bottom of the exterior doorknob so that the moisure has a place to escape. ua-cam.com/video/MkgaZB03m58/v-deo.html
DD= dear daughter
Thank you. Question, just replaced handles not knobs. So much freeplay in handle. Is there a way to tighten or did I simply buy low quality?
If you wanted to, could you put a deadbolt in that same hole instead of just a privacy lock knob thanks so enjoy your videos
I usually screw the striker plate on backwards, so it will sit flush, then i cut around it with a utility knife. This way it doesn’t move around when you’re outlining it.
You can adjust the latch? 🤔 I never realized that 🤣
Where can I get the knob sets with the circular bolt? All my doors have that older system.
I cant line up the two screws that connect the back faceplate /bolt and lock key thing....arghhh are there any tips , if i just line up one screw is that good enough lol ?
I have a handle style. Everything seems to fit well, but when I go to put the screws in, they dont seem to reach enough. Could this be the depth of the hole/door is too long for the specific door handle I purchased?
Our doors have the rectangular plate around the latch on the edge of the door. Ours have square corners and the ones on the new door handles have rounded corners. Any suggestions for what to do?
Do you have a video for making the hole for the strikeplate?
3:40 what is that type of door latch called, trying to find the circular type rather than rectangular type?
The latch when you switched to the round instead of the rectangle piece. Mine that I'm trying to change has the round in the door how do I pop it out so I can put new latch mechanism in? Having troubles!
hi is there a way to fix a front door that locks only way? My stepfather installed a doorknob years ago and when someone leaves someone needs to lock the door behind them. I need to fix this door so i can free leave the house whenever i want and search for a job. please any help will be greatly appreciated
Do you have a hack if vanity knob screw gets rusty and not opening?
Was really hoping you’d show the more “standard” type doorknob. The kind without the “beauty plate” which covers the screws.
Does ANYONE have an easier way to remove/replace those dang two screws?? The angle you that you have to attack them at, due to the knob being in the way, makes me lose my shit EVERY time!🤦🏻♂️
Please answer or address this! The WORST doorknobs.
Most modern knobs will have a set screw that you can loosen so the knob comes off and gives you direct access to the screws. If the knob you are dealing with does not have this, then all you can do is use a long bit that gives you the best angle to the screw head.
👍👍👍
Thanks Pete
What door knob is that I need black without strike plate?
When you cut the end off it no longer acts like a wedge but more like an auger.
What’s the brand of the door know
be careful. some backplates are screw-in. dont PRY. they might loosen counter clockwise or clockwise too.
Can you please share a link for door knob?
Attention au français qui regarde cette vidéo le mètre est gradué en pouces. Il faudra multiplier par 2,54 pour avoir les centimètres
How do you remove the driving latch?
I think I have a video on that on the channel.
Door Knobs, havent you guys heard of Archimedes?
We recently installed 6 new doors in which I had to do all the cutouts myself for the knob, latch etc. I was struggling so much with the plate that goes on the edge of the door(the plate that the tongue sticks out through". Sooo much cutting/tweaking to get the plate to sit right. It wasn't until the very last door that I looked deeper and realized I could have just put the cylinder in the door with the round part around the tongue and not use the plate at all. *sigh* Ah well. Live & learn right?
my problem is the back set has too much of a rectangle shape and wont fit in the round hole... i do not own a router
Drive-in latches and bolts are a bad idea. Over time the hole they are in will get larger then the latch has excess movement which can cause damage to the lock and mechanism plus the door will rattle more and the strike will not line up correctly.
Your door knob is different than mine. It is taking me hours to figure out and I have instructions.
Fails to show how to remove the flat plate.
Now how do you remove that
You confused me more than I was already
Idk who put mine in but I can't get that thing out to save my life.
I have witnessed the quality of passage sets drop, and the prices for quality hardware drop to a very low bar. Take your time to test, test, test how your passage set and latch are functioning as you install them, no matter how much you have spent on the hardware.
Whats measurement
I put oak doors on and that is a different ball game these have glass in aswell one mistake and your f**ked took me a hour and half each door very hard and the doors to hang and line up were a task because they were so heavy
If it’s a secret how did you find out?
My secret is to replace it with same brand
Did you borrow that hammer from your kid?
😂🍻that’s my hammer for finish carpentry. I like it because it’s small.
Are you single? 🤤😍
Daddy! 😀