Thanks for this Marty. I also have had issues with Fly front axles. I liked the way you used the 1/8 brass tube to line the existing axle guides.. saves on weight. I might try this approach on the rest of my Fly cars when needed. Rob Bushill of Swiftslots also did a very detailed video on making Fly 917s perform much better. Just goes to show that there is more than one way to get better performance from Fly cars. 👍🏻
My add to the frontend tune would be sand smooth the stub axle so the axle spins freely. There is a burr on those axles from the molding process. If u can eliminate that burr and smooth that axle and get that axle diameter just right that front wheel will spin super free and with the tire truer and coated that car will run amazingly
HAPPY SATURDAY FELLOW SLOTTERHEADS AND MARTY. Very good information forvthe racers out there, also for a permanent repair.. thanks and have a fun weekend.
Hello Marty. Thanks for sharing information. I have 2 tool suggestions that might make this task easier. For tiny drill bits, I like to use "pin vises" - they grip the drill bit, but give a larger, knurled surface which you can grip and turn more easily than against the bare shaft. And, they're inexpensive. The other is that you can use reamers for this -- they come in a magnitude more sizes for precision fitting holes like you're working with. In my kit, I keep a 1/32" reamer, and a 1/32" + .002" oversize reamer.
Excellent point Dave.. I would rather go straight axle, if I weren’t not showing the alternative fix. Both perform well, I think the straight axle is the better fix.
A great 'show how' once again, here Marty. I notice you did not glue the brass tubing against the reamed plastic chassis front axle inserts? Yes, it did appear a tight fit and, of course, we don't want to be inadvertedly gluing the stub axel holders to the axels themselves. I also wonder whether brass or ergal replacement stub axles themselves can be found? Plastic is really not the best material for these rotating parts.
Thanks Marty, I appreciate your videos. Simple solution. I have a couple right out of the box that need something done to them. My Carrera 917Ks. Anything other than a stub axle repair is problematic. Installing an axle would be difficult requiring a different guide assembly. I ordered some aftermarket pieces I hope will give me the clearance.
Marty, what is the OD and ID of the brass tube you are using? If you have an Amazon link to buy, that would be appreciated. You have become quite an educational UA-camr buddy, thanks for your commitment and support to newbies like me learning from these videos!
Thanks Pete!! If you have room.. I would go straight axle.. but this is a great fix for the stub axles.. give them a little sanding to make sure the spin free inside the brass tube..
Thanks for this Marty. I also have had issues with Fly front axles. I liked the way you used the 1/8 brass tube to line the existing axle guides.. saves on weight. I might try this approach on the rest of my Fly cars when needed. Rob Bushill of Swiftslots also did a very detailed video on making Fly 917s perform much better. Just goes to show that there is more than one way to get better performance from Fly cars. 👍🏻
They respond well to a little bit of tuning. 👍
My add to the frontend tune would be sand smooth the stub axle so the axle spins freely. There is a burr on those axles from the molding process. If u can eliminate that burr and smooth that axle and get that axle diameter just right that front wheel will spin super free and with the tire truer and coated that car will run amazingly
Great tip!! I hit mine with sandpaper!
Hey Marty, I do all the same to my FLY cars but, I add a washer to help with spacing. And I also add a piece of Nylon tape for the motor pods !!
Great tip! Thanks Lee!
HAPPY SATURDAY FELLOW SLOTTERHEADS AND MARTY. Very good information forvthe racers out there, also for a permanent repair.. thanks and have a fun weekend.
It makes a big difference! Thanks for watching!
Just picked up a new 917K Fly with this front independent suspension. This mod is now on my to do list. Thank you Marty!
It will clean up the slop for sure!!
Hello Marty. Thanks for sharing information. I have 2 tool suggestions that might make this task easier. For tiny drill bits, I like to use "pin vises" - they grip the drill bit, but give a larger, knurled surface which you can grip and turn more easily than against the bare shaft. And, they're inexpensive. The other is that you can use reamers for this -- they come in a magnitude more sizes for precision fitting holes like you're working with. In my kit, I keep a 1/32" reamer, and a 1/32" + .002" oversize reamer.
Great tool tip! I need to add a few tools to my bench!
Great tutorial again!!!!! Thanks for sharing!!!!!
Will also tune a Fly BMW M1 for a race series of a sister club and share the content.
The M1 is a quick car. Good luck!
Thanks Marty. What I don't understand is why they used stub axles when the guide wasn't in the way of using a straight axle
Excellent point Dave.. I would rather go straight axle, if I weren’t not showing the alternative fix. Both perform well, I think the straight axle is the better fix.
Thank you Marty for the Fly info! I've got some cars, that are hardly used. Now I'll have to give this a try. Great job!
Get those Fly cars out and start tuning!
Thank you from Oklahoma
Welcome!
A great 'show how' once again, here Marty. I notice you did not glue the brass tubing against the reamed plastic chassis front axle inserts? Yes, it did appear a tight fit and, of course, we don't want to be inadvertedly gluing the stub axel holders to the axels themselves. I also wonder whether brass or ergal replacement stub axles themselves can be found? Plastic is really not the best material for these rotating parts.
Darren, I agree.. putting a straight axle is the best solution. No problem with guide interference.. 👍
Once again great video/tutorial Marty! Well done ✌🏼
Thanks Massimo!
Thanks Marty. Will be sorting out the marcos this week! Much appreciated!
I hope this is what you were looking for Sim!
@@twolinesslotcars yes perfect thanks. Tube should arrive in a day or so. Project marcos refresh is about to commence!
@@simonsays171 let’s go!!!
Marty, good tips. I haven’t tried this method yet but now I’m going to on one of those 917s I showed you. One of them is really bad. It needs this.
Really helps clean up the slop in the front end👍
Thank you Marty, great information 👍
Very welcome!
Always great information Marty! I love anything that makes the cars run smoother around the track and makes the experience all the better.
I learned from one of the best, Darrell! Thanks for all of your help!
Great video Marty.
Thanks 👍
Thanks Marty,
I appreciate your videos. Simple solution. I have a couple right out of the box that need something done to them. My Carrera 917Ks. Anything other than a stub axle repair is problematic. Installing an axle would be difficult requiring a different guide assembly. I ordered some aftermarket pieces I hope will give me the clearance.
I hope it works out for you and you pick up some performance!
Nice video, Marty, and very informative. 👍
Thanks 👍
Great info!
Bob
Thanks Bob!
Marty, what is the OD and ID of the brass tube you are using? If you have an Amazon link to buy, that would be appreciated. You have become quite an educational UA-camr buddy, thanks for your commitment and support to newbies like me learning from these videos!
KS8127 is the part number… I got it from slot car corner. 1/8” OD 3/32” ID
@@twolinesslotcars Thanks, available on Amazon, more expensive but free shipping for a Canadian still cheaper
Nice one Marty, this is what I needed to know, thanks for doing this pal 💯🔥🔥🔥
Thanks Pete!! If you have room.. I would go straight axle.. but this is a great fix for the stub axles.. give them a little sanding to make sure the spin free inside the brass tube..
Saturday Morning Two Lines Coffee Time - Another great tech tip video that I am saving for future fixes. Thank you Marty!
Excellent!