FCR is really close to the frame but it looks like your carb is loose. It shouldn't be moving around like that. Tighten the rubber manifold to the engine and the airbox boot.
What I found in that the cables go on such an extreme angle around the stem of the frame when turned to the right that it doesn't allow the cables to return properly. You can notice the cables get really tight up by the throttle. Only when the bike is turned to the right though. Note, I have a stock carb that doesn't rub on the frame.
I ran into the same issue but took care of it while the plastics were off and the tank was off ,I am running stock cables and the push pull cable (straight end cable) touches the frame unless you loosen the clamps and pull it slightly away so it clears also as with most throttle cables make sure they are down as far as possible in the bracket even a couple turns will be the difference between binding and not also I ditched the stock suzuki clamps I know it looks better but with them on as tight as you can get them you can still move the carb with your hands this carb blows even the jetted bcr 36 away
Damb dude, thanks. Recently,installed a TT 39mm FCR. Thought it might be vacuum leak or,something. Mine does the same thing, not all,the time, but just sometimes. But wont anymore. Thanks.
I personally like a very precise throttle which is very hard to do on most bikes. Get it just right by removing most all the slack and it binds at full lock one side or the other. My two stroke 500 and CBR 900 are the only ones I could get perfect. My DRZ is doing the same thing. I even reshaped the plastic cable cover to lessen the contact with the frame. I'll try this trick next time mine hangs and see if that's the issue. Mine does the same thing randomly. As soon as I blip the throttle,it usually stops. I've only had the bike a week. Slowly getting it sorted. There's a video. Thanks for the tip. I'll try it and see if I can reproduce the issue. If you can reproduce it, you can fix it.
It looks like you still kept your airbox in there after the carb swap, why not just swap that with a K&N pod? Itll open up more space on the bike and allow it to breathe better. Thats the whole reason to put a FCR in there . .
I realize this comment is old, but for the sake of future readers I'd like to give my opinion on the matter. The FCR carburetor will breath just fine using the stock airbox/filter with the 3x3 mod, there is no need to eliminate the airbox entirely. Actually, I would argue using the stock airbox is better. At the very least It will offer splash protection from water. All the 450cc mx bikes use a similar airbox, and those bikes are sucking larger volumes of air. Eliminating the airbox will not give you additional performance benefits, but it will need to be opened up by doing the 3x3 mod, nothing more is necessary though.
The air box is still way too big with a FCR,, I can’t install the new cables without pulling that big ass carb out!! Hard to get out and back in!! Wish there was a video showing that complete process of installing new cables from end to end on a drz 400 !! Help!!
FCR is really close to the frame but it looks like your carb is loose. It shouldn't be moving around like that. Tighten the rubber manifold to the engine and the airbox boot.
What I found in that the cables go on such an extreme angle around the stem of the frame when turned to the right that it doesn't allow the cables to return properly. You can notice the cables get really tight up by the throttle. Only when the bike is turned to the right though. Note, I have a stock carb that doesn't rub on the frame.
Thanks for the video. Happened across it by accident and my bike is actually doing the same thing so now I know.
love your cruise control lol
I ran into the same issue but took care of it while the plastics were off and the tank was off ,I am running stock cables and the push pull cable (straight end cable) touches the frame unless you loosen the clamps and pull it slightly away so it clears also as with most throttle cables make sure they are down as far as possible in the bracket even a couple turns will be the difference between binding and not also I ditched the stock suzuki clamps I know it looks better but with them on as tight as you can get them you can still move the carb with your hands this carb blows even the jetted bcr 36 away
Hey dude, where did u get those mirrors? Been looking everywhere
Damb dude, thanks. Recently,installed a TT 39mm FCR. Thought it might be vacuum leak or,something. Mine does the same thing, not all,the time, but just sometimes. But wont anymore. Thanks.
That's actually a common problem. Just need to make sure the throttle cable wheel is far enough away from the frame.
I personally like a very precise throttle which is very hard to do on most bikes. Get it just right by removing most all the slack and it binds at full lock one side or the other.
My two stroke 500 and CBR 900 are the only ones I could get perfect.
My DRZ is doing the same thing. I even reshaped the plastic cable cover to lessen the contact with the frame.
I'll try this trick next time mine hangs and see if that's the issue. Mine does the same thing randomly. As soon as I blip the throttle,it usually stops. I've only had the bike a week. Slowly getting it sorted. There's a video.
Thanks for the tip. I'll try it and see if I can reproduce the issue. If you can reproduce it, you can fix it.
good points! there is a version 3 FCRMX that solves this issue now.
and give more end play to the length of the throttle cable and readjust the idle cable
Bad ass tip⚡
Why do four strokes have push and pull cables on the carb?
Idk i just use the 1 cable lol
A return cable. So when you let off throttle it physically shuts the slide closed. More precise control
hey where u get those mirror mind sharing the link
BikeMaster Folding Bar End Mirror FHM005F-K www.amazon.com/dp/B001KOEBJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Y-HhEbYAZTGDN
The clamps are way too loose if the carburetor moves that easily.
Where did you get your mirrors?
Not sure, they came on the bike when I got it. I'm pretty sure Motorcycle Superstore sells a similar set.
What is the handlebar on the bike in this video?
But u should have throttle cover ... on throttle cable area
I had the same problem my bike is a 2007
Re route the carburetor cable
It looks like you still kept your airbox in there after the carb swap, why not just swap that with a K&N pod? Itll open up more space on the bike and allow it to breathe better. Thats the whole reason to put a FCR in there . .
I do have a UNI air filter right off the back of the carb. The airbox is hollowed out and I use it for storage.
I realize this comment is old, but for the sake of future readers I'd like to give my opinion on the matter.
The FCR carburetor will breath just fine using the stock airbox/filter with the 3x3 mod, there is no need to eliminate the airbox entirely. Actually, I would argue using the stock airbox is better. At the very least It will offer splash protection from water. All the 450cc mx bikes use a similar airbox, and those bikes are sucking larger volumes of air.
Eliminating the airbox will not give you additional performance benefits, but it will need to be opened up by doing the 3x3 mod, nothing more is necessary though.
The air box is still way too big with a FCR,, I can’t install the new cables without pulling that big ass carb out!! Hard to get out and back in!! Wish there was a video showing that complete process of installing new cables from end to end on a drz 400 !! Help!!
Oh shit! Cruise control. New Drz cruiser coming to dealers near you
AT least you got the channel name correct
That’s what happens when you pack all that shit in there I threw the lectron on mine.
Too much fuel
Tallest seat I've ever seen on a drz!
Spray throttle line