I wonder if having a manual transmission and a manual fuel pump switch would qualify as "theft deterrent" features these days even to insurance companies...
It depends on the pump. Some low pressure high capacity pumps must not see a regulator and some shouldn't have a return line as they are designed to stop when the carbs are full, otherwise they run constantly.
This should have a starter circuit activation too, plus a safety oil pressure switch to interrupt the pump should the engine stop, such as in a crash. You don't want the pump to continue pumping fuel if your wreck and the fuel line gets cut.
do you have a return line hooked up from the carb? correct me if im wrong but it isnt needed is it? also do you still have ur sending unit in the tank for your gauge?
Return lines aren't necessary on all systems, but a return style pressure regulator can help to mitigate vapor lock if you're running ethanol blended fuel (most modern gas), living somewhere hot, or both.
if i am installing an external universal electric fuel pump on a 94 chevy astro: 1-do i need to take out the old and non working pump from the tank or can it work like this 2-if the line is broken from the filter because it is very old how do i cut the line to replace the filter, since i see fuel dripping from the side of the line coming from the tank 3-does it matter if i relocate the filter, closer to the engine ? thank you for your help
+ralph whitaker technically you can pull fuel through another fuel pump, but it may cause cavitation within the working pump. electric fuel pumps do not like resistance as they need to be gravity fed. you can just replace the line, but be sure to use metal line only since its all high pressure i believe.
but if I have to drop the tank to remove the old pump what sense does it make to install an external pump I thought the purpose was to avoid dropping the tank which is a lot of work and also expensive to do
if i were in your shoes with a fuel injection vehicle, i would drop the tank and replace it the proper way. the truck you see here had a mechanical fuel pump off the side of the engine that i deleted in favor of an electric pump. fuel injection is out of my area of expertise to be frank. when i fix it, i generally dont change much system wise.
+ThunderHead289 I did install it, but in order to get it start I have to spray the fuel injector with quick start, than the car will start, if I let it run and comes back in a few minute it will still start, but if sits over night it wont start unless spray with quick starts
What did you do about the old mechanical fuel pump? Did you remove it and put in plate to cover the opening or did you leave it in the vehicle and just plug the in and out holes in the pump?
Vic Knight i plate them off. on this engine it had an 80s timing cover without a place for the pump. my apologies for showing this on such a crap set up. my cross country galaxie is set up much better. i recommend running a return line with an electric pump if the pump is anything descent since deadheading has a tendancy to kill them off quickly.
Thanks for the response. I have a 75 ford f250 with a 390 engine. So you would recommend removing the old pump and plating it off? I dont understand the term deadheading, could you explain? Thanks
dead heading is when an electric pump builds pressure and then has to hold that pressure with no relief. it strains the pump. if your going to go electric, i would remove the pump and plate it off. if your running a cheapo pump, dont worry about what i said about dead heading.
the fuel regulator kind of should be close to the carburetor because the further it is away the more heat that can build up and increased fuel pressure due to heat I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to insulate that fuel regulator
+Sam Rothstein I agree, several things wrong here. 1st and foremost is the regulator and filter is right next to the coil. If that thing develops a leak or if the vehicle has a front end collision, flame on! I also dont think I heard him say anything about an oil pressure sensor relay cut off. I get it, you wanted to show how to install the pump and regulator on your pos, but dont label it as the correct way.
easy killer. yes i plan to remake this video in the summer. my galaxie is done up right with a holley black pump out back, regulator and return line with the oil pressure cut off. i do need to change the title accordingly.
+Buick Torque yes, considering what you had mentioned to me previously, i am sure that this is your issue. you are most likely going very lean when your running down the track as well due to this. electric fuel pumps are good at pushing and very bad at pulling fuel. im had similar issues on them with pickup tube placement, once they suck air in, it takes a bit for them to start pulling fuel again. you definitly need to get that pump body below the lowest level of the gas tank, and preferably the lead to the pump needs to be coming out of the bottom of the tank, or else you will have starvation issues from fuel slosh around your pickup tube. does this make sense? here is the video where i explain some of this issue and it actually happens to me on camera ua-cam.com/video/m3rEc1rMn9s/v-deo.html
So I have a 72 ford I have bought an electric fuel pump from carter, my solenoid is on my wheel well, Is that where I would install the red wire for the ignition switch? or is it in the column where it needs to be? or is there a more accessible spot for when the car is on? No oil switch yet have to get the car running and will do that at a later time, so like yours it will be on a toggle on the dash for now then a oil sender and toggle.
actually that is NOT the correct way to install a fuel pump, the RIGHT way is to use a relay that only activates when you have oil pressure , so that if you stall, you wont flood the engine manifold , with raw fuel in the event your float bowl does not work correctly, the pump should not run if the engine is not running,,
sounds overly safe and irritating like a lawn mower seat that kills the mower when you get off. I like to be able to fill my float bowls with the engine off. and I have it wired so it only runs when ignition is going to the engine. seems safe enough to me. if your needle and seats are not working, then I think you have bigger issues.
ThunderHead289 overly safe? If you get in an accident that severs a fuel line, your pump will continue gushing gasoline all over everything until the ignition switch is turned off. Considering you may be unconscious at the time, and at the very least disoriented, that might be a while. Not possibly burning to death by installing a simple safety switch seems like a no brainer to me.
you sir have a point. you can actually get inertia switches from old ford cars from the early 2000s like the mustang. if you crash, the jolt will kill the pump. pretty awesome.
aLDO MEZZECOSH LOL... Really? Turn the ignition to the on position in any fuel injection car and you will hear the fuel pump. No oil pressure, and not running. So knowing this, did you just dream this theory up, or are you repeating what some other knuckle head told you?
Any who. We're from different places cuz instead of any who I say. and fuck ya. " so that's my carb and fuck ya" makes me feel better about myself so any who have a good day.
the intake is called a hillbourne scoop? I think? anyway, search them on ebay. I got mine for 30, but it was a special deal. they go right on the carb, but you want to be sure that you get one that's for a single carb set up if that's what you have. the other thing to factor in is hood clearance. luckily the old f100 has a ton.
ThunderHead289 Lol. Not intake bud. Intank. Did u just add on that electric fuel pump and leave the gas tank the way it is or did u drop the gas tank and modify the intank setup such as fuel hoses and such. I was told to remove the old intank fuel pump first.
since this vehicle was pre fuel injection, I did not have to mess with the gas tank. I would think it would need to be removed because it would put a ton of strain on the external pump to get flow through a pump that isn't running. long story short, I would remove it
yes i did bypass the mech pump. you cannot run the pump inline with a mech pump. iam running an 86 motor with an 86 efi style timing cover. so i have no mechanical pump. i recommend always running an electric pump for fuel temp regulation.
@@ThunderHead289 what did you do to bypass the mechanical pump? Like did you remove the mechanism? And put something to seal that spot? Sorry if this is a dumb question
Some of this stuff from back in the day can be something else - gotta check the date on my videos. Iv been ok youtube a long time and currently in only 25
regulator is up by carb. nice and far away from the exhaust in the lowest part of the system. wired into the ignition. ignition on - fuel pump on. but I can still shut it down with a switch. system works well.
Change the title of the vehicle to "Anywho".
Thanks for info on electric fuel pumps great love your comment at end of video (and there you have it) might use it myself now Kev 👍👍🇬🇧uk
I wonder if having a manual transmission and a manual fuel pump switch would qualify as "theft deterrent" features these days even to insurance companies...
It depends on the pump. Some low pressure high capacity pumps must not see a regulator and some shouldn't have a return line as they are designed to stop when the carbs are full, otherwise they run constantly.
Fantastic craftsmanship! Will you be doing another video like this soon?
This should have a starter circuit activation too, plus a safety oil pressure switch to interrupt the pump should the engine stop, such as in a crash. You don't want the pump to continue pumping fuel if your wreck and the fuel line gets cut.
Man this video has to be at least a decade old.
Basically hes telling you to shut up nigga
How did you put a return line into it so you dont get vapor locked when you turn the pimp back on if there is fuel still in the carb
do you have a return line hooked up from the carb? correct me if im wrong but it isnt needed is it? also do you still have ur sending unit in the tank for your gauge?
Return lines aren't necessary on all systems, but a return style pressure regulator can help to mitigate vapor lock if you're running ethanol blended fuel (most modern gas), living somewhere hot, or both.
if i am installing an external universal electric fuel pump on a 94 chevy astro:
1-do i need to take out the old and non working pump from the tank or can it work like this
2-if the line is broken from the filter because it is very old how do i cut the line to replace the filter, since i see fuel dripping from the side of the line coming from the tank
3-does it matter if i relocate the filter, closer to the engine ?
thank you for your help
+ralph whitaker technically you can pull fuel through another fuel pump, but it may cause cavitation within the working pump. electric fuel pumps do not like resistance as they need to be gravity fed. you can just replace the line, but be sure to use metal line only since its all high pressure i believe.
but if I have to drop the tank to remove the old pump what sense does it make to install an external pump I thought the purpose was to avoid dropping the tank which is a lot of work and also expensive to do
if i were in your shoes with a fuel injection vehicle, i would drop the tank and replace it the proper way. the truck you see here had a mechanical fuel pump off the side of the engine that i deleted in favor of an electric pump. fuel injection is out of my area of expertise to be frank. when i fix it, i generally dont change much system wise.
+ThunderHead289 ok sounds good, thanks for your help
+ThunderHead289 I did install it, but in order to get it start I have to spray the fuel injector with quick start, than the car will start, if I let it run and comes back in a few minute it will still start, but if sits over night it wont start unless spray with quick starts
What did you do about the old mechanical fuel pump? Did you remove it and put in plate to cover the opening or did you leave it in the vehicle and just plug the in and out holes in the pump?
Vic Knight i plate them off. on this engine it had an 80s timing cover without a place for the pump. my apologies for showing this on such a crap set up. my cross country galaxie is set up much better. i recommend running a return line with an electric pump if the pump is anything descent since deadheading has a tendancy to kill them off quickly.
Thanks for the response. I have a 75 ford f250 with a 390 engine. So you would recommend removing the old pump and plating it off? I dont understand the term deadheading, could you explain? Thanks
dead heading is when an electric pump builds pressure and then has to hold that pressure with no relief. it strains the pump. if your going to go electric, i would remove the pump and plate it off. if your running a cheapo pump, dont worry about what i said about dead heading.
Thanks for the info
I love that picture at the beginning
the fuel regulator kind of should be close to the carburetor because the further it is away the more heat that can build up and increased fuel pressure due to heat I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to insulate that fuel regulator
I hear ya, I was young. This was two engines ago. I think this is from 12
Do everyone a favor and change the title to "How to install an electric fuel pump INCORRECTLY". Duh!!!!
other than this being a shitty pump in a shitty vehicle, what is wrong with it? the theory is sound.
ThunderHead289 I'll quote you
" This could probably be done a better way"
Nuff said.
+Sam Rothstein I agree, several things wrong here. 1st and foremost is the regulator and filter is right next to the coil. If that thing develops a leak or if the vehicle has a front end collision, flame on! I also dont think I heard him say anything about an oil pressure sensor relay cut off. I get it, you wanted to show how to install the pump and regulator on your pos, but dont label it as the correct way.
easy killer. yes i plan to remake this video in the summer. my galaxie is done up right with a holley black pump out back, regulator and return line with the oil pressure cut off. i do need to change the title accordingly.
+Sam Rothstein could he have installed it worse?
Good morning.
I mounted my Carter 110-gph electric fuel pump HIGHER than my Regal's gas tank. This is a problem, correct?
+Buick Torque yes, considering what you had mentioned to me previously, i am sure that this is your issue. you are most likely going very lean when your running down the track as well due to this. electric fuel pumps are good at pushing and very bad at pulling fuel. im had similar issues on them with pickup tube placement, once they suck air in, it takes a bit for them to start pulling fuel again. you definitly need to get that pump body below the lowest level of the gas tank, and preferably the lead to the pump needs to be coming out of the bottom of the tank, or else you will have starvation issues from fuel slosh around your pickup tube. does this make sense? here is the video where i explain some of this issue and it actually happens to me on camera ua-cam.com/video/m3rEc1rMn9s/v-deo.html
Just a tach relay would help for safety but the theory is sound.
So I have a 72 ford I have bought an electric fuel pump from carter, my solenoid is on my wheel well, Is that where I would install the red wire for the ignition switch? or is it in the column where it needs to be? or is there a more accessible spot for when the car is on? No oil switch yet have to get the car running and will do that at a later time, so like yours it will be on a toggle on the dash for now then a oil sender and toggle.
I'd say, oil sender and ignition unit would be what you want, you can tie it to the solenoid. I just always liked having a flip switch override.
CORRECTLY? does this mean I have to use electrical tape to keep the hoses from rubbing? Yikes !
PS...I use a filter BEFORE the electric pump for obvious reasons. One speck of rust will seize a pump quickly.
How to CORRECTLY ........... anyways there might be a better way to wire it
Is that regulator pretty heavy? What is it mounted too?
Is that a 351?
Mounting that regulator to the head is a bad idea. Do I really need to detail why?
Nope - I did an electric fuel pump on my galaxie with a return line.
Yes please explain
Because they’re design to push fuel and not pull it. so any way I GOT MY PUMP MOUNTED RIGHT HERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 0:36 😂😂😂😂
Wow this was 1000 years ago 😅
Does it burn more gas
At least he shows you how to help you catch your vehicle on fire oh...fire Marshal bill*LET ME SHOW YOU SOMETHING*
+the magician are you alright ? I feel like you have some beef with me.
Is that an FE or 351?
actually that is NOT the correct way to install a fuel pump, the RIGHT way is to use a relay that only activates when you have oil pressure , so that if you stall, you wont flood the engine manifold , with raw fuel in the event your float bowl does not work correctly, the pump should not run if the engine is not running,,
sounds overly safe and irritating like a lawn mower seat that kills the mower when you get off. I like to be able to fill my float bowls with the engine off. and I have it wired so it only runs when ignition is going to the engine. seems safe enough to me. if your needle and seats are not working, then I think you have bigger issues.
ThunderHead289 overly safe? If you get in an accident that severs a fuel line, your pump will continue gushing gasoline all over everything until the ignition switch is turned off. Considering you may be unconscious at the time, and at the very least disoriented, that might be a while. Not possibly burning to death by installing a simple safety switch seems like a no brainer to me.
you sir have a point. you can actually get inertia switches from old ford cars from the early 2000s like the mustang. if you crash, the jolt will kill the pump. pretty awesome.
aLDO MEZZECOSH LOL... Really? Turn the ignition to the on position in any fuel injection car and you will hear the fuel pump. No oil pressure, and not running. So knowing this, did you just dream this theory up, or are you repeating what some other knuckle head told you?
they usually only run for a few seconds to prime the system.
Can i install one of these on a non carburetor engine?
No, an EFI car requires a much higher pressure (64.5psi) than these pumps (4-6psi) can generate.
Any who. We're from different places cuz instead of any who I say. and fuck ya. " so that's my carb and fuck ya" makes me feel better about myself so any who have a good day.
thunderhead. how did u do the intank setup?
the intake is called a hillbourne scoop? I think? anyway, search them on ebay. I got mine for 30, but it was a special deal. they go right on the carb, but you want to be sure that you get one that's for a single carb set up if that's what you have. the other thing to factor in is hood clearance. luckily the old f100 has a ton.
ThunderHead289
ThunderHead289 Lol. Not intake bud. Intank. Did u just add on that electric fuel pump and leave the gas tank the way it is or did u drop the gas tank and modify the intank setup such as fuel hoses and such. I was told to remove the old intank fuel pump first.
since this vehicle was pre fuel injection, I did not have to mess with the gas tank. I would think it would need to be removed because it would put a ton of strain on the external pump to get flow through a pump that isn't running. long story short, I would remove it
and there you have it anywho. .lol
I don't like that arm that gets hot ...that small block looks tiny compared to a 390 in there .....
This must be satire
Did you bypass the mechanical pump I couldn't see it in your video
yes i did bypass the mech pump. you cannot run the pump inline with a mech pump. iam running an 86 motor with an 86 efi style timing cover. so i have no mechanical pump. i recommend always running an electric pump for fuel temp regulation.
@@ThunderHead289 what did you do to bypass the mechanical pump?
Like did you remove the mechanism? And put something to seal that spot?
Sorry if this is a dumb question
Warning: Do not follow this guy's instructions.
Anywhoo
how did u wire the on off switch
it can be wired directly to the battery, or you can splice into any fuse that is bigger than 3 amp.
so u can run a wire from fuel pump to switch to battery
Correctly? I think not!
you are too general I need to know exactly where the connections are.
i tell you what, you know your shit man, but next time take it to a mechanic, we don't want ya blowin your self up.
Some of this stuff from back in the day can be something else - gotta check the date on my videos. Iv been ok youtube a long time and currently in only 25
I think I could do a better Job without your duck tape methode
Install your pump below your tank. They push fuel,not pull.. this guy installed wrong... Anywho, there ya have it
That's CORRECT????!!!!
Lol, totally wrong! No relay, regulator probably in the hottest spot.. wtf
regulator is up by carb. nice and far away from the exhaust in the lowest part of the system. wired into the ignition. ignition on - fuel pump on. but I can still shut it down with a switch. system works well.
This did not help at all. Any who
But umm any who....
Fire hazard
Disaster
work goes much faster with Avasva plans.
Any who
This is so dodgey.
It’s bad
Horrible video
what a crappy set up, I was looking for pro install. This isnt it.