@@donaldfrederick1557 Electronics of the fuel and ignition control system can be done away with if one is willing to do away with engine emissions control while still keeping the catalytic converter utilizing the vehicle strictly off-road. Federally, it is illegal to sell a vehicle with such omissions, and too, if your state requires emissions testing for road use. Privately, one can search for a non-computer distributor and the carb off the same engine from an earlier model, providing your intake accepts a carb for off-road use. If your intake does not bolt up a carb, the intake off the same engine that the dist. and carb came from will be required, which there are plenty of for off-road use. There are different hurdles to overcome but it can be done by you for off-road use privately, if so inclined and mechanically inclined. Disclaimer: These are simply talking points and NOT advice to bypass federal laws in any way.
@donaldfrederick1557 my 87 had the fi 300 it now has a 1972 302 in it. Before hand I just used the factory ford carb intake and a hei conversion worked just fine.
An unhardened fuel pump pushrod on my rebuilt 383 was a real head scratcher to diagnose. I have it sitting on my desk, right in front of me, about 1/4" shorter than it should be. What was most surprising was how well the car drove with only a fraction of the pump stroke it was meant to have.
Your experience is priceless. Something as simple as "ignition problems create abrupt symptoms and fuel issues are more gradual" makes total sense and yet something that I may never have considered. I truly appreciate all your advice, knowledge, and passion. My #1 favorite Youtibe Channel, hands down.
There is the "head scratcher" that can leave one sitting on the side of the road. My Cutlass has a Chevy 350 in it One day after visiting my son we were heading home and it died...like shutting the key off die. I called my son and he came down. I put a spare spark plug in a plug wire and determined I had spark. Then pulled the fuel line from the stock pump. No fuel. We put a temporary electric fuel pump in and drove it home. I pulled the mechanical pump out and found the pin that is a hinge for the actuator came out where it was staked in. Never saw one come apart before. 2 weeks later my kid was driving his 69 Camaro and the exact same thing happened to his pump. Even with the trouble I'd still rather run a mechanical pump.
Not even sure how many times just in the last few weeks I've told people to follow their fuel lines back to the tank looking for short pieces of rubber hose. There's always a piece at the pump and at the sending unit, maybe more in-between, that'll really cause trouble. Dry rotted and sucking air or turned to a goo like substance and restricting flow. Great topic, great video!
I had similar issue with my caprice years ago. Stomp and run hard shift to second then get a bog. Had a fuel hose by tank that was cracked, wouldn't leak fuel but would suck air, I was young and dumb and changed carbs distributors, coils, modules, fuel pumps etc. Found the issue after owning the car for almost a year
60 Chev p.u. had a piece of solder slag enter sockless fuel line. AFTER inspecting EVERY individual component found it in the metal line 1/2 way between tank & pump!! How it got up & out of the sharp bend behind seat & all that way-I'll NEVER KNOW!! BUT, I was there & IT DID. Drove me crazy for a WEEK!
Actually, this makes perfect sense. Soft fuel lines, just like brake hoses, will constrict internally with advanced age, due to exposure to the petroleum distillates they handle. Good rundown on the many other problems you may find as well. As usual, another good teaching video. Thanks for posting. I always learn at least a little bit from every one of these.
Carbs have been the Bain of my existence building classic cars. Tuning,jetting and just them to perfection is a PIA for me at least. Thanks for the info over the last few months Tony. I appreciate it!
I had that problem when I was working small engines. The liner in the hose would swell closed. I had about ten new Husqvarna riders I had to replace the fuel hose front to back. Also probably another ten or more craftsman. Only one year. Some of them I had to do twice. The fuel hose they sent us for the warranty work did the same thing.
And Australian built Fords built in the 80s had a short rubber hose joining two steel fuel lines approximately where the A pillar/firewall is. I think it was because the 6 and v8 had different steel lines in the engine bay. I had the problem where that perished. I replaced the rubber at the tank and in the engine bay, still had problems and finally traced it. Thanks for sharing, its always good to hear stories because it helps us think of other options to try or places to look.
Great video, thank you for posting. I was poised to rip out the mechanical fuel pump and fit an electric one. The filter blow through test solved it. Looked ok but was plugged. You've saved me a lot of work and hassle.
Back in the 1970s and 1980s, it was commonplace to swap an SBC into a Vega. There were several stories about a puzzling result; the V8 engine would lose power above a specific rpm. The problem would then be traced to using the original fuel line, which had been designed for the stock 140 CID four cylinder engine.
I've even seen the inside of rubber bose have a piece kind of "split" a chunk off and act like a flapper valve under vacuum and close off the supply. Middle of the night plowing snow. That was a fun one to find!
Uncle Tony a big thank you for all the valuable information you have provided. You are very thorough in all aspects that you are providing Tony, You have taught me soo much in such a fast time. I’m 68 yrs old and with people like you are providing me at an ole age so much information ❤ Thank You so much!!!
Yep, I like your comment about Dans car. Computers and computer controlled gadgets are great but when they go bad you are DOA. Carbs, just like points ignitions are easy to troubleshoot and really easy to get back up and going. Too many people think throwing $$$ at things is the best - not always the case. Keep it simple, keep $$$ in your pocket and keep running. Less is More.
That first Gen sitting behind you just looks so badass! I always thought they were a strange car- although based on the Coronet, they seemed so different looking. Dodge really broke firm with that design and I love it. Do right by this car Tony, spend the time it needs to be great again!
Get better Uncle Tony. Hearing about the back issues hits me hard. Having my right knee completely replaced at 15. I had to compensate a lot for that. Ever since my back feels horrible. Ill throw it out once or twice a year. My left knee is starting to dislocate like my right one did during football.
football is just nasty for injuries. I had a guy fly at my legs who messed up my knee and he was a meathead and does not even remember what he did to me today. I love throwing the ball but hate the sport today
I'd like to refer to Chris Birdsong (guy who restores 2nd gen Chargers and un-hacked the '68 from Roadkill) who was deep into Holley EFI stuff, untill he started having them fail and leave him stranded. (Surprise surprise) So now he has abandoned them and went back to carbs again.
Interesting about the Holley EFI. I've been having problems with Pertronix ignition conversions--not that they stop firing, but hard starting and blowing-up mufflers --- somehow the timing is off and ignite while an exhaust valve is open. I'm all points now, and not another problem.
funny you posted this the same day I just had my '66 wildcat experience no fuel issues for the first time in 16 yrs. Posted a video too! No fuel at the carb, then traced to the filter, then fuel pump, then disconnected the pump and no fuel coming from the tank to the pump. Tank is vented, dropped the tank and checked the sender and sock was fine. Blew compressed air through steel lines, and checked cam lobe with endoscope to ensure lobe was still hitting pump arm. Pump still pumps. Rubber lines must have collapsed, about to check this weekend more. You rock Tony!
Weirdest one I ever experienced was a freak accident where I somehow got onto a slick road on a windy switchback in a steep canyon park and ended up nose diving off a 4WD type shortcut and in the process [this was the 74 Coronet I had that looked EXACTLY like Bottle Rocket, by the way] it hit the bottom in some mud, did no actual damage to the car, so we merrily went along on our way, but going up the other side of the park all of the sudden the car died. Well, sure enough, I went and pulled the fuel filter [it was steel and up close to the carburetor] and it was jam packed with rust. We went about 2 miles at a time for the next ten miles before all the lose rust finally stopped clogging up the fuel filter. Moral of this story: NEVER THRASH YOUR OLD CAR AROUND! Stirs up all the years of sediment off the fuel tank. At least, in my defence, I can say that it was an inevitable accident caused by some ice on the road, and a very steep and twisty road at that.
I am glad I found this channel. I need some direction. I have a true barn find 1978 New Yorker with the 440 and a quadrajet carburetor. I purchased two months ago from an owner that had purchased from the original owner estate. 17,718 original miles. The car had not been driven since 2015 when he purchased it. This does have the infamous lean burn system. I had the car shipped to a carb shop. I order new fuel tank, new fuel sending unit, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, and had a rebuild done of the carb. The carb shop replaced everything I just listed, and rebuilt the carb. On the 8 miles drive home I put 20 gallons of fuel into it. It started fine for a month. Then, and now, it will take multiple attempts to start before it starts to fire, and then when it does fire it does not high idle. I found one loose fuel line from the back of the carb to the metal fuel line and replaced it. Once started and warm it will fire right away. However, if I start it the next day, it will take another five or six attempts before it fires and finally starts. I did notice yesterday that she sounds like she is surging everyone now and then. I do not smell fuel. I do not see any drips under the vehicle front to back, or back to front. I want this to be my daily driver. I am in sales and nothing sells like being in one of the classic cruisers. She does sound sweet when she is running.
I swapped out an avs with my cousin, for a thermoquad. The thermoquad kept cutting off at various times. Then let it sit. It would run again. Then out of No where shut off again. He ran the avs with an adaptor with no more issues. The 360 Volare ran great. I on the other hand started having the cut off problem on my 340 Challenger. I took the carb apart. Checked the floats and needles. All working as they should. I blew into the metal fuel line with the floats dropped. No blockage. Put it all back together. Ran great. Until it just shut off and starved for fuel. I removed the carb again. No fuel ran out of the line. I tapped it a little and a small round flat piece of plastic fell out. It was almost the same diameter as the fuel line. I guess it would turn like a throttle blades on a carb and fuel would flow. Then when it turned and shut off the fuel it caused the problem. I put the carb back on. And it was the best carb I ever ran. That 2 1/4 secondaries would light the back tires up when it came in😂. I love the thermoquad. Really simple carb to set up. Tension the rear flap and set the needles for ideal idle. I still have this carb.
Had a pushrod on 440 that was 1/4” short. It stalled at idle. This was a fresh engine that a friend rebuilt. I to this day hope it was just a worn original and didn’t send 1/4” worth or wear through the engine. Ran fine after replacing and never picked up any metal on a mag plug.
Same problem, over 20 years ago. Unhardened pushrods were being sold, and like you said, 1/4" of fine metal through my fresh rebuilt 383. I got a bit of fur on the drain plug, found some in the filter, but the engine is still a strong runner to this day.
My girlfriend's dad had one of the strangest fuel starvation problems I've ever heard of in his mid 70's Volare wagon (way back before I met him): He'd drive it around and it would occasionally die. He'd let it sit for a while and it would start working again. Took him quite a while to figure it out. His kids, when they were little, and put some newspaper into the fuel fill. That stuff floated around inside the tank until it clogged the sock, then when he'd stop driving it, it would float away again and it would be fine for a while again.
I was a tech back in the same days you referred to, charcoal made it's way to the carb via the PURGE VALVE.. replaced dozens of them on GM vehicle's of the 80's
I know how that hose on the Charger's tank outlet got constricted, Tony. You were asleep, dreaming about the old days, you sleep-walked into the garage and tipped the nitromethane can into the Charger's tank. That hose didn't like the nitromethane.
Everyone have went through that in there life. I loved the Bah Bah Bahhh! Electric problem. Very well explainations on total fuel starvations. Personnaly, they all happened to me trough my bikes, cars, sleds and anything with an engine. Probably most of those watching this genuine content. Get well soon !
Some great information there, much appreciated uncle Tony! I especially liked the comparison between the way ignition issues and fuel issues manifest themselves. You're an inspiration, thanks for the knowledge 😊
The clear fuel filters must have a layer of vapor. When bracket racing with a cool can (with ice) I found the cooler fuel would fill the clear filters completely with no air/vapor space showing.
Find a good chiropractor. I’m 70, my medical doctor wanted to operate. Got a good chiropractor and am all smiles. It took about 2 months of twice a week visits, but I know plenty who opted for surgery and their pain never went away after 10 years.
I garentee the ethanol ate that rubber hose and made it do that. Although I have never had that issue quite like that. I have learned that regular fuel line is no longer suitable for use. You have to buy the more expensive "fuel injection line" whatever rubber its made from is unaffected by today's gas how fuel line should be. Hopefully that tip helps someone avoid issues.
Tony when you recover I recommend trying cat Camel exercises. I do them for 30 seconds before going to bed made a big difference for me, I know they help because if I quit I get worse lol.
My '66 Coronet 500 uses the same fuel system components as that Charger. When I rebuilt it, the fuel tank was so full of loose rust and debris that I just threw it away. I replaced it with a stainless steel reproduction tank. When I installed the fuel pick-up I ordered the one used for the hemi car. It is has 1/2" dia metal pipe, and requires 1/2" hook up hose. I replaced the rest of the rusty old 5/16 fuel line with 3/8 fuel line.
My 80's k car had a fuel problem, that shuttered and bucked like crazy, then clear up and do it again. Rust in the gas tank blocking the filter, until it would fall away from the filter and back again. Lot's of fun. Drain, shake around with a chain inside and reinstall with new fuel filter. All better. Seemed to be from a gas station that way.
I have the same back trouble. Started when I was a late teen working on my and friends cars. Leaning over a fender for an hour and could hardly straighten up again. "Life goes on. Long after the thrill of living has gone.."
I had a similar problem, with the rubber fuel line, on an Oldsmobile a year or so ago. It got soft, and would collapse on acceleration. Also had to put a new tank in it
16:55 You said 'the very last' but we all know that some times corrosion builds up in a fuel bowl, especially if there is any moisture, and breaks off flakes of aluminum and zinc that then fall into the galley ways and choke them down, leading to a lot of restriction. I have spent a lot of time blasting them things clean. Some times, it helps to just run a little vinegar through them [nothing stronger because anything stronger will eat through the metal, and make other problems such as incurable pinhole leaks, which cause a whole NEW problem, including both reduced fuel due to the vacuum leak when operating, and then the fuel bowl leaking out on you when you park, which also causes dieseling, backfires, and just plain running the carb out of fuel every time you park] some times a little B-12 and compressed air works. I don't know what is in B-12 but I have learned to trust it. I think it really digests a lot of nasty gunk in those tiny galley ways a carburetor that might be missed otherwise. Its rare that you get a carburetor with screw plugs in the drilled passageways, but if you ever do, HANG ON TO IT! They are usually little pressure crimped balls and if you pull them out, its hell getting them back in, and usually you either end up drilling and putting in set screws [and hoping they don't leak all over the place!] or you end up giving up and throwing it away and getting a new carb completely.
I followed ford's instructions on diagnosing a 2017 f150 with a dead throttle pedal. Replaced both high and low pressure pumps, swept throttle sensor (2 grand so far). Turned out to be throttle body. Good luck
Tony I enjoy your videos I love that you do for the average wage guy. I know a average guy doesn't really have this but maybe you should get a car lift. I'm just saying this for health reasons. Might be easier on the back
Sorry to hear about your bad back . I also have had a bad back for years and I always thought it was muscle related but it turned out to be the cartilage between the bones what's insufficient. Basically I didn't sleep through the night for 20 years it was so bad. After taking glucosamine and chondroitin combination for less than a week I had no more back pain. Try it out you can get it at your local drugstore it's in the vitamin section. Glucosamine and chondroitin . Love your videos all the best to you and yours
When I was a mechanic I was always told that resqueezing the gas nozzle after its shut off would slightly over fill the tank and cause the charcoal to get in places it doesnt belong. I have no first hand experience of this happening, it's just what I was told at the time.
This was very helpful , I have a fuel problem in a 455 Oldsmobile that wont start in the morning unless I prime the carburetor then it runs fine . I changes the gas tank and the fuel pump , but have not checked the float that will be my next move
Start off the day with basic stretching exercises as you get older . On all my mopars I bought switched over to 3/8 racing aluminum fuel line and used vinyl coated metal hose clamp hangers
I had a 77 LTD II that had the door on the quarter panel for the gas cap. The housing or the compartment was made up of the two body panels welded together. There was a manufactured gap for letting any water back out of the Gas cap area. That would easily clog with Fir tree needles and road dust, then when it rained it would cake up the bottom like mud and flood out the Gas cap and allow water into the tank. The only filter on the car was about the size of my thumb and screwed into the 2VV carb. Every time it rained it would go into a nosedive situation at 45 or higher. I could limp it home. It got to be a pain in the hiney to drive, needing the tank totally expelled and fresh start. What it needed was just a couple holes drilled to assist in the draining of the gas cap area.
@@stuckinmygarage6220 Yeah the seal was bad too, but the holes needed to be there because the 1 drain gap at the bottom was easily manipulated over a period of time. Notice I said fir tree, so anywhere else besides my front yard, most likely nothing would have ever happened. but the fir needles just lay one on top of themselves and eventually dam everything up. The dang fir tree is every bit of 5.5' in diameter and in 2 huge branches at the trunk. Again the holes were easier than doing away with the tree.
I recall reading in a mid 1960s magazine (Mecanix Illustrated?) in which a vented fuel cap had been replaced with a non-vented type. This caused the fuel tank to partially collapse. Stereotypically for the era, the woman driver had only noticed that she had to fill up more often.
suction and pressure gauges either side of the pump and some clear hose, covers most issues when troubleshooting and or test using an electric just before the mech pump and see that it can draw the fuel at a rate to keep your engine happy. 10% of HP in US GPH will do it. Great tests before you even start the engine. ( dont let electric run dry if it a vane pump)
Tony there is one other thing that will cause fuel starvation. on general motors cars there is like a spring inside the fuel cartridge and a plastic plug like in them on the rubber gasket take both that spring and plastic plug out . Back in the day (when l worked for GM) there was a bulletin about fuel starvation in most GM cars.
The low fuel level in the tank reminds me, the modern car's tend to have baffling to keep the fuel level consistent around the sender unit and keep the fuel sloshing to a minimum in their fuel tanks. Interesting how there is not a company yet that is manufacturing fuel tanks that have baffling in them for Classic cars. would cure a part of the fuel starvation upon WOT acceleration. Here's my "Freak issue" that i had a few months back. Had an interesting fuel supply issue i don't even know how and what the logic was behind it when i fixed it, anywho, few months back i had installed a rebuild kit on a Carter AVS & installed on a big block Chrysler 361. I cranked the motor and the fuel was not filling up the float bowls, interesting, I proceeded to check fuel flow by removing the hard/rubber line before the carburetor, cranked the motor. fuel was flowing but it was a slight trickle, not enough to keep the float bowls full. i back tracked to the fuel pump & the fuel pump push rod and inspected the push rod for proper travel, Push rod length checks out and the fuel pump flow also. I reverted to the carburetor, I checked and triple checked the float/needle settings and if the needles were sticking, good here. So far what in the world is going on? Next up i noticed that the accelerator pump would not pump up and down in it's bore even with the accelerator pump spring installed, The pump was too tight so i changed back to the old crusty accelerator pump that was in the carburetor originally, and it fit loosely, Cranked the motor, the fuel bowls are now filling up and the motor is able to start. The only thing i can assume what may have happened was that the NEW accelerator pump fitted too tight in the accelerator pump well blocking and or causing a positive pressure/vacuum(?) Blocking and or stopping fuel from being allowed to flow from the pump to the carburetor. This issue had me going insane a "Freak issue" if you will, even the knowledgeable gentleman's at the C body forum's were not able to figure out the problem. The take away from here is that the rebuild kits might be new and clean and supposedly correct kit for the carburetor at hand, do not discount the old parts that worked with the carburetor originally.
82 Pontiac trans am had the problem with the charcoal in the carburetor, carb would flood putting gas into the charcoal canister and turning it into powder and end up in the float bowl. I've also run into a 78 olds cutlass that had a leaking fuel line over the rear axle higher than the tank never leaked fuel car ran fine if used every day but if it sat for 2 days it would start and die and not restart unless carb was primed several times the mechanical pump only drew air until the line had some fuel in it
I had same issue with a Dart. Replaced the rubber hose with fuel injector hose instead of stock rubber and never had the issue again. I'm not sure, but I was told the fuel injector line is better for dealing with the modern gas (ethanol).
Buy updated hose made for handling ethanol. All new cars use hard lines , but, we need to minimize the sections of soft. Spend the money. New fuel injection line seems like a good idea.
I had the same thing happen on the rubber hose at the rear axle for the brake lines.. the brakes felt weak, and I had no fluid coming out when I tried to bleed the system. The rubber hose was swelled shut on the inside. But it wasn't leaking and looked fine on the outside
Haha I have seen that before however it was on a isx Cummings engine and it was the blowby tube. At idle it flowed fine but when we drove the truck it would blow oil out of everywhere it seemed like and granted that engine has high crank case pressure anyway but it was mostly coming from the front crank seal and after 2 seals later it started just dumping oil like crazy from everywhere you could imagine I cut the blowby tube off right where it came out of the front cover of the engine and I have never seen a hose so blister up on the inside before it was definitely a learning experience
Excellent video, mention another example that drove us crazy. Car had been sitting for a long time with old fuel. Pickup tube had rusted a tiny hole at that fuel level. Subsequently whenever the full fuel level dropped to the pin hole level car would act erratic, but the sloshing fuel would mask symptoms until the level dropped signifantly below the pin hole.
I have run into a couple of similar, constricted hoses. Oil fill, and drain hoses, on semi trucks. The oil fill hoses, on Detroit Series 60 oil fill hoses, are constructed similarly. Collapsing lines ARE a thing! Another truck we still get, A vacuum truck; (Think, "Sewer-sucker. You're right.) has a "drop hose" between it's secondary engine, and the ground. Both take too long to do their thing.
*Well since you’re never gonna give us that G-Body channel, you have to at least do a video dedicated to the diagnosis/repair/tuning of the old GM CCC electronic controlled Dual/Quadrajet before you’re completely disabled!*
I had the evap canister thing happen on my d150 when it still had the stock setup and I didn't know what I was doing. Something disintegrated inside than canister and let the carb suck it up
Heavy float if carb has a nitrophyl float. Too much alcohol in fuel will dry out the material and cause float to sink causing flooding or overflow. Brass float can get a tiny breech and sink as well. Brass floats are still the best to use. I still push Seafoam as it nullifies the drying effect of E10 fuel for older carb vehicles.
Friends don't let friends drive their car without a carburetor......Good on you Tony, for being a friend :))
I'd love to change my 1996 300 inline 6 ford engine to carburetor. Don't think the electronics on a 96 can make it happen
@@donaldfrederick1557 Electronics of the fuel and ignition control system can be done away with if one is willing to do away with engine emissions control while still keeping the catalytic converter utilizing the vehicle strictly off-road. Federally, it is illegal to sell a vehicle with such omissions, and too, if your state requires emissions testing for road use. Privately, one can search for a non-computer distributor and the carb off the same engine from an earlier model, providing your intake accepts a carb for off-road use. If your intake does not bolt up a carb, the intake off the same engine that the dist. and carb came from will be required, which there are plenty of for off-road use. There are different hurdles to overcome but it can be done by you for off-road use privately, if so inclined and mechanically inclined. Disclaimer: These are simply talking points and NOT advice to bypass federal laws in any way.
@donaldfrederick1557 my 87 had the fi 300 it now has a 1972 302 in it. Before hand I just used the factory ford carb intake and a hei conversion worked just fine.
An unhardened fuel pump pushrod on my rebuilt 383 was a real head scratcher to diagnose. I have it sitting on my desk, right in front of me, about 1/4" shorter than it should be. What was most surprising was how well the car drove with only a fraction of the pump stroke it was meant to have.
Your experience is priceless. Something as simple as "ignition problems create abrupt symptoms and fuel issues are more gradual" makes total sense and yet something that I may never have considered. I truly appreciate all your advice, knowledge, and passion. My #1 favorite Youtibe Channel, hands down.
There is the "head scratcher" that can leave one sitting on the side of the road. My Cutlass has a Chevy 350 in it One day after visiting my son we were heading home and it died...like shutting the key off die. I called my son and he came down. I put a spare spark plug in a plug wire and determined I had spark. Then pulled the fuel line from the stock pump. No fuel. We put a temporary electric fuel pump in and drove it home. I pulled the mechanical pump out and found the pin that is a hinge for the actuator came out where it was staked in. Never saw one come apart before. 2 weeks later my kid was driving his 69 Camaro and the exact same thing happened to his pump. Even with the trouble I'd still rather run a mechanical pump.
Videos like this give me the confidence that while I may never be a builder, if I have something that runs well I can keep it running well.
Not even sure how many times just in the last few weeks I've told people to follow their fuel lines back to the tank looking for short pieces of rubber hose. There's always a piece at the pump and at the sending unit, maybe more in-between, that'll really cause trouble. Dry rotted and sucking air or turned to a goo like substance and restricting flow.
Great topic, great video!
Yep. Went through that with my ‘59 Plymouth station wagon.
I had similar issue with my caprice years ago. Stomp and run hard shift to second then get a bog. Had a fuel hose by tank that was cracked, wouldn't leak fuel but would suck air, I was young and dumb and changed carbs distributors, coils, modules, fuel pumps etc. Found the issue after owning the car for almost a year
60 Chev p.u. had a piece of solder slag enter sockless fuel line. AFTER inspecting EVERY individual component found it in the metal line 1/2 way between tank & pump!! How it got up & out of the sharp bend behind seat & all that way-I'll NEVER KNOW!! BUT, I was there & IT DID. Drove me crazy for a WEEK!
Tony: the voice of wisdom and experience.
Also seen the inside of rubber hose degrade where a flap of rubber acts as an intermittent check valve.
Actually, this makes perfect sense. Soft fuel lines, just like brake hoses, will constrict internally with advanced age, due to exposure to the petroleum distillates they handle. Good rundown on the many other problems you may find as well. As usual, another good teaching video. Thanks for posting. I always learn at least a little bit from every one of these.
1980s BMWs will lock the rear brakes with old brakes hoses.
Carbs have been the Bain of my existence building classic cars.
Tuning,jetting and just them to perfection is a PIA for me at least.
Thanks for the info over the last few months Tony. I appreciate it!
I really hate to be that guy but... Bane.
Don't forget, most oem carbs have a filter in the fuel inlet that is pretty fine. Thanks U.T.
I had that problem when I was working small engines. The liner in the hose would swell closed. I had about ten new Husqvarna riders I had to replace the fuel hose front to back. Also probably another ten or more craftsman. Only one year. Some of them I had to do twice. The fuel hose they sent us for the warranty work did the same thing.
And Australian built Fords built in the 80s had a short rubber hose joining two steel fuel lines approximately where the A pillar/firewall is. I think it was because the 6 and v8 had different steel lines in the engine bay. I had the problem where that perished. I replaced the rubber at the tank and in the engine bay, still had problems and finally traced it. Thanks for sharing, its always good to hear stories because it helps us think of other options to try or places to look.
Exactly - And, if you are obsessed, like me, I'm thinking I need to take down my tank... "Did the sock fall off?"
Cheers!
Great video, thank you for posting. I was poised to rip out the mechanical fuel pump and fit an electric one. The filter blow through test solved it. Looked ok but was plugged. You've saved me a lot of work and hassle.
Back in the 1970s and 1980s, it was commonplace to swap an SBC into a Vega. There were several stories about a puzzling result; the V8 engine would lose power above a specific rpm. The problem would then be traced to using the original fuel line, which had been designed for the stock 140 CID four cylinder engine.
I had a similar issue on my square body. I ended up running fuel injection line throughout the truck wherever there was a rubber line connection spot
I've even seen the inside of rubber bose have a piece kind of "split" a chunk off and act like a flapper valve under vacuum and close off the supply. Middle of the night plowing snow. That was a fun one to find!
I love the carbureter chunk. you might put a condensor in the care package too.
An HEI will make an easy drop in when his EFI fails.
Uncle Tony a big thank you for all the valuable information you have provided. You are very thorough in all aspects that you are providing Tony, You have taught me soo much in such a fast time. I’m 68 yrs old and with people like you are providing me at an ole age so much information ❤ Thank You so much!!!
Yep, I like your comment about Dans car. Computers and computer controlled gadgets are great but when they go bad you are DOA. Carbs, just like points ignitions are easy to troubleshoot and really easy to get back up and going. Too many people think throwing $$$ at things is the best - not always the case. Keep it simple, keep $$$ in your pocket and keep running. Less is More.
That first Gen sitting behind you just looks so badass! I always thought they were a strange car- although based on the Coronet, they seemed so different looking. Dodge really broke firm with that design and I love it. Do right by this car Tony, spend the time it needs to be great again!
Broke form I meant to say…
Get better Uncle Tony. Hearing about the back issues hits me hard. Having my right knee completely replaced at 15. I had to compensate a lot for that. Ever since my back feels horrible. Ill throw it out once or twice a year. My left knee is starting to dislocate like my right one did during football.
football is just nasty for injuries. I had a guy fly at my legs who messed up my knee and he was a meathead and does not even remember what he did to me today. I love throwing the ball but hate the sport today
I'd like to refer to Chris Birdsong (guy who restores 2nd gen Chargers and un-hacked the '68 from Roadkill) who was deep into Holley EFI stuff, untill he started having them fail and leave him stranded. (Surprise surprise) So now he has abandoned them and went back to carbs again.
Interesting about the Holley EFI. I've been having problems with Pertronix ignition conversions--not that they stop firing, but hard starting and blowing-up mufflers --- somehow the timing is off and ignite while an exhaust valve is open. I'm all points now, and not another problem.
Simple is luxury
funny you posted this the same day I just had my '66 wildcat experience no fuel issues for the first time in 16 yrs. Posted a video too! No fuel at the carb, then traced to the filter, then fuel pump, then disconnected the pump and no fuel coming from the tank to the pump. Tank is vented, dropped the tank and checked the sender and sock was fine. Blew compressed air through steel lines, and checked cam lobe with endoscope to ensure lobe was still hitting pump arm. Pump still pumps. Rubber lines must have collapsed, about to check this weekend more. You rock Tony!
Hahahahaha it's as if you know my current struggles
+A The most concise fuel system with functional description. Plus your most concise video too.
Weirdest one I ever experienced was a freak accident where I somehow got onto a slick road on a windy switchback in a steep canyon park and ended up nose diving off a 4WD type shortcut and in the process [this was the 74 Coronet I had that looked EXACTLY like Bottle Rocket, by the way] it hit the bottom in some mud, did no actual damage to the car, so we merrily went along on our way, but going up the other side of the park all of the sudden the car died.
Well, sure enough, I went and pulled the fuel filter [it was steel and up close to the carburetor] and it was jam packed with rust.
We went about 2 miles at a time for the next ten miles before all the lose rust finally stopped clogging up the fuel filter.
Moral of this story: NEVER THRASH YOUR OLD CAR AROUND!
Stirs up all the years of sediment off the fuel tank.
At least, in my defence, I can say that it was an inevitable accident caused by some ice on the road, and a very steep and twisty road at that.
I am glad I found this channel. I need some direction.
I have a true barn find 1978 New Yorker with the 440 and a quadrajet carburetor. I purchased two months ago from an owner that had purchased from the original owner estate. 17,718 original miles. The car had not been driven since 2015 when he purchased it. This does have the infamous lean burn system.
I had the car shipped to a carb shop. I order new fuel tank, new fuel sending unit, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, and had a rebuild done of the carb. The carb shop replaced everything I just listed, and rebuilt the carb. On the 8 miles drive home I put 20 gallons of fuel into it. It started fine for a month. Then, and now, it will take multiple attempts to start before it starts to fire, and then when it does fire it does not high idle. I found one loose fuel line from the back of the carb to the metal fuel line and replaced it. Once started and warm it will fire right away.
However, if I start it the next day, it will take another five or six attempts before it fires and finally starts. I did notice yesterday that she sounds like she is surging everyone now and then.
I do not smell fuel. I do not see any drips under the vehicle front to back, or back to front.
I want this to be my daily driver. I am in sales and nothing sells like being in one of the classic cruisers. She does sound sweet when she is running.
I swapped out an avs with my cousin, for a thermoquad. The thermoquad kept cutting off at various times. Then let it sit. It would run again. Then out of No where shut off again. He ran the avs with an adaptor with no more issues. The 360 Volare ran great. I on the other hand started having the cut off problem on my 340 Challenger. I took the carb apart. Checked the floats and needles. All working as they should. I blew into the metal fuel line with the floats dropped. No blockage. Put it all back together. Ran great. Until it just shut off and starved for fuel. I removed the carb again. No fuel ran out of the line. I tapped it a little and a small round flat piece of plastic fell out. It was almost the same diameter as the fuel line. I guess it would turn like a throttle blades on a carb and fuel would flow. Then when it turned and shut off the fuel it caused the problem. I put the carb back on. And it was the best carb I ever ran. That 2 1/4 secondaries would light the back tires up when it came in😂. I love the thermoquad. Really simple carb to set up. Tension the rear flap and set the needles for ideal idle. I still have this carb.
Had a pushrod on 440 that was 1/4” short. It stalled at idle. This was a fresh engine that a friend rebuilt. I to this day hope it was just a worn original and didn’t send 1/4” worth or wear through the engine. Ran fine after replacing and never picked up any metal on a mag plug.
Same problem, over 20 years ago. Unhardened pushrods were being sold, and like you said, 1/4" of fine metal through my fresh rebuilt 383. I got a bit of fur on the drain plug, found some in the filter, but the engine is still a strong runner to this day.
My girlfriend's dad had one of the strangest fuel starvation problems I've ever heard of in his mid 70's Volare wagon (way back before I met him):
He'd drive it around and it would occasionally die. He'd let it sit for a while and it would start working again.
Took him quite a while to figure it out. His kids, when they were little, and put some newspaper into the fuel fill. That stuff floated around inside the tank until it clogged the sock, then when he'd stop driving it, it would float away again and it would be fine for a while again.
I experienced the same thing yrs ago. Sediment gets sucked into the filter and clogs it during operation and releases when there's no pumping.
I was a tech back in the same days you referred to, charcoal made it's way to the carb via the PURGE VALVE.. replaced dozens of them on GM vehicle's of the 80's
I know how that hose on the Charger's tank outlet got constricted, Tony.
You were asleep, dreaming about the old days, you sleep-walked into the garage and tipped the nitromethane can into the Charger's tank. That hose didn't like the nitromethane.
Everyone have went through that in there life.
I loved the Bah Bah Bahhh! Electric problem. Very well explainations on total fuel starvations.
Personnaly, they all happened to me trough my bikes, cars, sleds and anything with an engine. Probably most of those watching this genuine content. Get well soon !
Still waiting for the 55Nomad update 😂 Thanks for tossing that carb in your trunk, your a good friend 🗿😂 Thanks for sharing Tony
Some great information there, much appreciated uncle Tony! I especially liked the comparison between the way ignition issues and fuel issues manifest themselves. You're an inspiration, thanks for the knowledge 😊
Excellent, I didnt know that cap was vented.
The clear fuel filters must have a layer of vapor. When bracket racing with a cool can (with ice) I found the cooler fuel would fill the clear filters completely with no air/vapor space showing.
Find a good chiropractor. I’m 70, my medical doctor wanted to operate. Got a good chiropractor and am all smiles. It took about 2 months of twice a week visits, but I know plenty who opted for surgery and their pain never went away after 10 years.
I garentee the ethanol ate that rubber hose and made it do that. Although I have never had that issue quite like that. I have learned that regular fuel line is no longer suitable for use. You have to buy the more expensive "fuel injection line" whatever rubber its made from is unaffected by today's gas how fuel line should be. Hopefully that tip helps someone avoid issues.
I found the same situation. Injection hose and solid clamps, problem solved.
Tony when you recover I recommend trying cat Camel exercises. I do them for 30 seconds before going to bed made a big difference for me, I know they help because if I quit I get worse lol.
Crappy rubber fuel hose has been an issue lately. And I know the bad back deal, I to have delt with it since my teens.
‘65 barracuda 340 4speed 850 thermoquade. Had electric pump at the tank, mechanical pump at engine. Never starved.
I got weak back about a week back
AWESOME vid...hope your feeling better...MOPAR 4 EVER.
My '66 Coronet 500 uses the same fuel system components as that Charger. When I rebuilt it, the fuel tank was so full of loose rust and debris that I just threw it away. I replaced it with a stainless steel reproduction tank. When I installed the fuel pick-up I ordered the one used for the hemi car. It is has 1/2" dia metal pipe, and requires 1/2" hook up hose. I replaced the rest of the rusty old 5/16 fuel line with 3/8 fuel line.
Great explanation of the anatomy of tje fuel system!
I had to put brass floats in my Thermoquad finally after determining the plastic ones were getting saturated with fuel.
Excellent video with great examples and explanations! I'll definitely try these options. Thanks for the info.
My 80's k car had a fuel problem, that shuttered and bucked like crazy, then clear up and do it again. Rust in the gas tank blocking the filter, until it would fall away from the filter and back again. Lot's of fun. Drain, shake around with a chain inside and reinstall with new fuel filter. All better. Seemed to be from a gas station that way.
glad your feeling better and getting your “Back 2 work” for this video
Crapy bluman hose they say it's rated but I think it's crap dosent last at all ,thanks for sharing, all the best to yous and your loved ones
Love your stuff Uncle Tony helping me out so much very cool info
5:09 19:08 Like I sez! 13:30 Copa-static! Just havin' fun, I love UTG!
I just watched DD's vid. As worried as he is about that system tossing that carb is good idea.
I have the same back trouble. Started when I was a late teen working on my and friends cars. Leaning over a fender for an hour and could hardly straighten up again. "Life goes on. Long after the thrill of living has gone.."
Thanks Uncle Tony 🙏
I had a similar problem, with the rubber fuel line, on an Oldsmobile a year or so ago. It got soft, and would collapse on acceleration. Also had to put a new tank in it
16:55 You said 'the very last' but we all know that some times corrosion builds up in a fuel bowl, especially if there is any moisture, and breaks off flakes of aluminum and zinc that then fall into the galley ways and choke them down, leading to a lot of restriction.
I have spent a lot of time blasting them things clean.
Some times, it helps to just run a little vinegar through them [nothing stronger because anything stronger will eat through the metal, and make other problems such as incurable pinhole leaks, which cause a whole NEW problem, including both reduced fuel due to the vacuum leak when operating, and then the fuel bowl leaking out on you when you park, which also causes dieseling, backfires, and just plain running the carb out of fuel every time you park] some times a little B-12 and compressed air works.
I don't know what is in B-12 but I have learned to trust it.
I think it really digests a lot of nasty gunk in those tiny galley ways a carburetor that might be missed otherwise.
Its rare that you get a carburetor with screw plugs in the drilled passageways, but if you ever do, HANG ON TO IT!
They are usually little pressure crimped balls and if you pull them out, its hell getting them back in, and usually you either end up drilling and putting in set screws [and hoping they don't leak all over the place!] or you end up giving up and throwing it away and getting a new carb completely.
I followed ford's instructions on diagnosing a 2017 f150 with a dead throttle pedal. Replaced both high and low pressure pumps, swept throttle sensor (2 grand so far). Turned out to be throttle body. Good luck
Tony I enjoy your videos I love that you do for the average wage guy. I know a average guy doesn't really have this but maybe you should get a car lift. I'm just saying this for health reasons. Might be easier on the back
Freaking Tony I love how old-school you are so cool nice videos
Sorry to hear about your bad back . I also have had a bad back for years and I always thought it was muscle related but it turned out to be the cartilage between the bones what's insufficient. Basically I didn't sleep through the night for 20 years it was so bad. After taking glucosamine and chondroitin combination for less than a week I had no more back pain. Try it out you can get it at your local drugstore it's in the vitamin section. Glucosamine and chondroitin . Love your videos all the best to you and yours
Every time UT says “rubber hose” with that NY accent I start to hear the Welcome Back Kotter theme
When I was a mechanic I was always told that resqueezing the gas nozzle after its shut off would slightly over fill the tank and cause the charcoal to get in places it doesnt belong. I have no first hand experience of this happening, it's just what I was told at the time.
UT. Would love to see a video of you wrenching on the Charger getting it ready for Power Tour. 👍
This was very helpful , I have a fuel problem in a 455 Oldsmobile that wont start in the morning unless I prime the carburetor then it runs fine . I changes the gas tank and the fuel pump , but have not checked the float that will be my next move
Thank You Tony Good Advise Know What To Look For
Start off the day with basic stretching exercises as you get older . On all my mopars I bought switched over to 3/8 racing aluminum fuel line and used vinyl coated metal hose clamp hangers
I had a 77 LTD II that had the door on the quarter panel for the gas cap. The housing or the compartment was made up of the two body panels welded together. There was a manufactured gap for letting any water back out of the Gas cap area. That would easily clog with Fir tree needles and road dust, then when it rained it would cake up the bottom like mud and flood out the Gas cap and allow water into the tank.
The only filter on the car was about the size of my thumb and screwed into the 2VV carb. Every time it rained it would go into a nosedive situation at 45 or higher. I could limp it home. It got to be a pain in the hiney to drive, needing the tank totally expelled and fresh start. What it needed was just a couple holes drilled to assist in the draining of the gas cap area.
😂. I haven't heard " hiney" in a long time. Texan? I need to check the rubber seal / grommet around my " modern" gas cap. Cheers!
@@stuckinmygarage6220 Yeah the seal was bad too, but the holes needed to be there because the 1 drain gap at the bottom was easily manipulated over a period of time.
Notice I said fir tree, so anywhere else besides my front yard, most likely nothing would have ever happened. but the fir needles just lay one on top of themselves and eventually dam everything up.
The dang fir tree is every bit of 5.5' in diameter and in 2 huge branches at the trunk. Again the holes were easier than doing away with the tree.
I can smell gas just watching this video! 😆 Super helpful tips as always as I'm just getting ready to put my gas tank and sender together
Maybe that hard launch from bottle rocket threw your back out, that was a great race take it easy uncle Tony great video keep them coming
I always tell people to think of sucking soda out of a cup with a split straw. Everyone can relate to that concept easily.
Yes! Throwing carburators is back!
I recall reading in a mid 1960s magazine (Mecanix Illustrated?) in which a vented fuel cap had been replaced with a non-vented type. This caused the fuel tank to partially collapse. Stereotypically for the era, the woman driver had only noticed that she had to fill up more often.
suction and pressure gauges either side of the pump and some clear hose, covers most issues when troubleshooting and or test using an electric just before the mech pump and see that it can draw the fuel at a rate to keep your engine happy. 10% of HP in US GPH will do it. Great tests before you even start the engine. ( dont let electric run dry if it a vane pump)
Some fuel starvation issues can be traced to no fuel in the tank. You’re welcome.
Can't be that. I put in 59 cents worth two days ago.
As a lifelong mechanic myself, I totally recommend Inversion. You know hanging upside down by your ankles on an inversion table.
Thank you for this video
same goes for carb jets , when ya do a wheelie fuel goes to the back of the bowl and you starve fuel , jet extensions saves that problem
Tony there is one other thing that will cause fuel starvation. on general motors cars there is like a spring inside the fuel cartridge and a plastic plug like in them on the rubber gasket take both that spring and plastic plug out . Back in the day (when l worked for GM) there was a bulletin about fuel starvation in most GM cars.
Great content tony it's all helpful and universal
I was just having issues with winter blend fuel boiling in the rear bowl,put a plate on cured.
The low fuel level in the tank reminds me, the modern car's tend to have baffling to keep the fuel level consistent around the sender unit and keep the fuel sloshing to a minimum in their fuel tanks. Interesting how there is not a company yet that is manufacturing fuel tanks that have baffling in them for Classic cars. would cure a part of the fuel starvation upon WOT acceleration.
Here's my "Freak issue" that i had a few months back.
Had an interesting fuel supply issue i don't even know how and what the logic was behind it when i fixed it, anywho, few months back i had installed a rebuild kit on a Carter AVS & installed on a big block Chrysler 361.
I cranked the motor and the fuel was not filling up the float bowls, interesting, I proceeded to check fuel flow by removing the hard/rubber line before the carburetor, cranked the motor. fuel was flowing but it was a slight trickle, not enough to keep the float bowls full.
i back tracked to the fuel pump & the fuel pump push rod and inspected the push rod for proper travel, Push rod length checks out and the fuel pump flow also.
I reverted to the carburetor, I checked and triple checked the float/needle settings and if the needles were sticking, good here.
So far what in the world is going on?
Next up i noticed that the accelerator pump would not pump up and down in it's bore even with the accelerator pump spring installed, The pump was too tight so i changed back to the old crusty accelerator pump that was in the carburetor originally, and it fit loosely, Cranked the motor, the fuel bowls are now filling up and the motor is able to start.
The only thing i can assume what may have happened was that the NEW accelerator pump fitted too tight in the accelerator pump well blocking and or causing a positive pressure/vacuum(?)
Blocking and or stopping fuel from being allowed to flow from the pump to the carburetor. This issue had me going insane a "Freak issue" if you will, even the knowledgeable gentleman's at the C body forum's were not able to figure out the problem.
The take away from here is that the rebuild kits might be new and clean and supposedly correct kit for the carburetor at hand, do not discount the old parts that worked with the carburetor originally.
I've replaced a couple of yards of dry rotted fuel line on Chryslers in my time too!
I thought about mailing you this carb I just pulled off my 71 fury III lol.
82 Pontiac trans am had the problem with the charcoal in the carburetor, carb would flood putting gas into the charcoal canister and turning it into powder and end up in the float bowl. I've also run into a 78 olds cutlass that had a leaking fuel line over the rear axle higher than the tank never leaked fuel car ran fine if used every day but if it sat for 2 days it would start and die and not restart unless carb was primed several times the mechanical pump only drew air until the line had some fuel in it
I had same issue with a Dart. Replaced the rubber hose with fuel injector hose instead of stock rubber and never had the issue again. I'm not sure, but I was told the fuel injector line is better for dealing with the modern gas (ethanol).
Buy updated hose made for handling ethanol. All new cars use hard lines , but, we need to minimize the sections of soft. Spend the money. New fuel injection line seems like a good idea.
I had the same thing happen on the rubber hose at the rear axle for the brake lines.. the brakes felt weak, and I had no fluid coming out when I tried to bleed the system.
The rubber hose was swelled shut on the inside. But it wasn't leaking and looked fine on the outside
Same
When it’s plugged it will fill.
Haha I have seen that before however it was on a isx Cummings engine and it was the blowby tube. At idle it flowed fine but when we drove the truck it would blow oil out of everywhere it seemed like and granted that engine has high crank case pressure anyway but it was mostly coming from the front crank seal and after 2 seals later it started just dumping oil like crazy from everywhere you could imagine I cut the blowby tube off right where it came out of the front cover of the engine and I have never seen a hose so blister up on the inside before it was definitely a learning experience
Cracks in metal fuel lines and rusty fuel lines with pin holes cause fuel starvation also.
Excellent video, mention another example that drove us crazy. Car had been sitting for a long time with old fuel. Pickup tube had rusted a tiny hole at that fuel level. Subsequently whenever the full fuel level dropped to the pin hole level car would act erratic, but the sloshing fuel would mask symptoms until the level dropped signifantly below the pin hole.
I have run into a couple of similar, constricted hoses. Oil fill, and drain hoses, on semi trucks. The oil fill hoses, on Detroit Series 60 oil fill hoses, are constructed similarly. Collapsing lines ARE a thing! Another truck we still get, A vacuum truck; (Think, "Sewer-sucker. You're right.) has a "drop hose" between it's secondary engine, and the ground. Both take too long to do their thing.
*Well since you’re never gonna give us that G-Body channel, you have to at least do a video dedicated to the diagnosis/repair/tuning of the old GM CCC electronic controlled Dual/Quadrajet before you’re completely disabled!*
I had the evap canister thing happen on my d150 when it still had the stock setup and I didn't know what I was doing. Something disintegrated inside than canister and let the carb suck it up
On the collapsed gas hose, dry gas to get rid of water in the gasoline will do that to neoprene.
Professor Tony
Heavy float if carb has a nitrophyl float. Too much alcohol in fuel will dry out the material and cause float to sink causing flooding or overflow. Brass float can get a tiny breech and sink as well. Brass floats are still the best to use. I still push Seafoam as it nullifies the drying effect of E10 fuel for older carb vehicles.
I don’t think you mentioned it, I may be wrong ! But I’ve had a issue with dirt and a piece of trash block the jets inside the carburetor