Crawlspace Floor Repair, Carpentry, & Metal Jacks vs. Piers
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- In our crawlspace repairs here in Central Florida, we use metal screw jacks and bottle jacks as temporary supports. Some large foundation companies will try to sell you on a metal jack as a permanent solution. They call it intelligent, or smart (jack) - but let's be real, that's ridiculous! Your house wasn't originally built with a metal screw jack under it, why would that seem like a long-term repair? It's not - Florida is humid and metal rusts/corrodes quickly. If you fix your floors correctly, you don't need to use a metal jack. Jacks are temporary, custom piers are forever.
The environment under that house is heaven compared to most of the houses I have been under, including my current home.
So much sand, it's perfect for a floating pier and beam 😂
You data is incorrect on the Ellis Shore Jacks. They are 100 specified from the manufacturer as a permanent Jack solution. Some of them are up to 56k capacity. Yes CMU is a great solution but Ellis jacks are engineered flawlessly
Would you build a new house using only metal jacks as the sole foundation, live in that house for 10 years, raise your kids, sleep at night, and go through countless storms and maybe a hurricane if you're in Florida?
@@abodebuildingcompanyI see you’re not sold on jacks but when you “properly install” meaning pour a leveling stone gravel below the affected soil to surface and secure that with a steel zinc coated galvanized smart jacks those are permanent rated for 85k lbs per jack. No their not for every application and I certainly wouldn’t build whatever your in like that should had a proper foundation not a large opening with sand. These jacks are meant to sister with a actual brick foundation.
@@abodebuildingcompany Sure, why not? Serious question.
The beams are nicely done however, the orange jacks are Ellis shoring jacks that are meant to be used as permanent or temporary. They are better than wood or cmu .
The data I read is that these are to be considered secondary jacks. As in they would expect you to still have a stem wall/footings to still be the primary support system, and these could support the crossbeams and such. They aren't primary support because they are not tied to the ground.
Great video, as always. Very detailed.
I have seen those "temporary" posts in litterally every basement I have ever been in. If those jack posts are good enough for a basement they are perfectly fine in a crawl space. I would go so far as to see that all of those temporary posts you were using will out live that 4x4 post you plan on using. The 4x4 will expand and contract with the change in humidity levels.
You know you’re stuff good comment I am a firm believer in jacks in moderation under proper circumstances being superior. Now first you’ll want a protected encapsulation with blocking around structure but whatever this guy is under in Florida is not conditioned meaning all that will rot eventually
Home Depot has plastic pier bases; I saw them the other day, and I'll probably use them when I lift my 20x26 structure, as well as using them to support a planned 14x18 (at least) addition on one end...
Sand is a great barrier against termites.
I gotta build some masonry piers and support floor before I get my brick crawl space spray foamed. Gonna white wash it before spray foam.
If you going to do it this way you should use brackets, straps, etc.
Tie post into beam with Z bracket.
Tie post into concrete footing/base with a base bracket.
Secure the joists to the beam with a joist strap.
Thanks for the tip
The screw jacks are used to slowly straighten the bowed beams over time, other wise you will pull them off the support structure at the ends. Now the space you were in, that very fine sand, and will move under the weight of the house. Unless you can ensure your pads will not sink any further, you still need the screw jacks to keep the beams from bowing in the future..
This is a high humidity environment, not sure the metal screw jacks would last 20 years, so we went with concrete piers because the original ones lasted 100 years.
@@abodebuildingcompanyyou’re dealing with high humidity because that is a unconditioned environment no blocking anything just sand and sloppily placed bottle jacks and pavers whoever put that together hacked
The ellis jacks are not for temporary support. They last at least 100 years
Life of the home sounds pretty good and definitely not a temporary solution not to mention theirs usually several in conjunction working in tandem. So that has more a chance of failing than a person winning the lottery with terrible luck
I have a question. If these cement blocks are on sand do they sink eventually?
Generally, how deep do the new footers have to be dug for concrete?
I need to know where you get those orange Jack's, they would be a big help in raising my house
Ellis - ellismanufacturing.com - please tell them we sent you.
I've seen them used as permanent solution with a poured concrete footer
How thick are the 2'x2' slabs you poured? Then you put a 16"x16" paver on top?
How do you suggest supporting the floor while replacing both piers and beams? Can the temporary support be close, how close? Should it be staggered? I need to replace a lot but not sure how to support for such a lengthy process
Call a licensed structural engineer, they'll tell you how close and whether staggered.
@@abodebuildingcompany thank you much. I need to replace quite a bit but with having to dig holes and fill with concrete, I didn’t know if having the support jacks too close would actually cause them to cave
Why not build a flitch beam? Now that is more structurally sound than wood. More expensive but better.
We considered various metal beam shapes but in the end we went with wood because that's what's been under this house for 100 years. Using metal in a damp, humid environment was questionable and untested.
Dear All
Where I can rent this gigantic
Juck up devise.
Thank you
With all the problems with wood sagging and rotting why don't they use concrete beams with concrete block infills for the floor structure like they do in Britain and other countries.?
Because this was built 100 years ago when concrete wasn't as readily available in this area?
@@abodebuildingcompany I appreciate that but do they use more concrete nowadays?
Approximately how much does it cost to level a floor?
Hi SpiceC Delite, great question and a great question for a new video. That of course depends on a lot of factors that we don't know. Where is the house, where is the floor, how big is it, what is the access point, is the floor being removed, is the house under construction, are drywall and plaster cracks acceptable, is it a crawlspace or a leanover-space, does any wood need to be replaced, how many inches does it need to be leveled, how many piers are involved, do the piers need to be replaced, do piers need to be added, does the foundation need to be replaced or added, how thick is the new foundation, how will concrete get to the new foundation, are the new piers made from CMU, how will termite shields be added, how will vapor barriers be added, how will anchor bolts be added, how many jacks are needed, does it need to be engineered, does it need sisters, does it need new joists/girders, will the new joists/girders be steel or wood, what kind of steel or wood? There are a few variables, and the crystal ball says the average is five to fifteen grand.
Do you all work in the Tampa Bay Area?
Unfortunately, we do not.
Those are permanent floor jacks bud
What companies do this type of work?
We only know of one company in the world that does this kind of work - Abode Building Company LLC. Kidding aside, search your local yellow pages for foundation repair.
@@abodebuildingcompany 🤣🤣 great response thank you!
@@abodebuildingcompany what are "yellow pages"? :-)🤣
@@musclecars4635 look under house yellow pages fill the gap between the beam and the block usually accompanied by cedar wedges