I'm attempting to buy a house with a large crawlspace and learn as much as possible about them beforehand. This guy is super informational and knows his stuff!
I enclosed my vented crawlspace and it was the best home improvement I've ever done. The improvement to my indoor air quality was wonderful. A nice side benefit is that plumbers and HVAC techs like the clean environment.
Im surprised you didn’t add lighting and an outlet or two I mean if you rarely will use the space when you do it’d be nice to have the lighting and an outlet for tools right
The issue where he’s at in Texas is the high water table that makes a full basement not very feasible. That’s why you don’t see them in Texas as much. Also the frost line isn’t very deep so there’s not much need for excavating as deep as up North.
I see the value of sealing the crawl space floor and insulating the crawl space walls but I don't see how that precludes venting. The vents can be closed if desired but at least they give the option to cross ventilate the crawl space with fresh air should problems arise.
Looking at all of the work involved in that crawlspace, why not just go with a full basement and have the added benefit of extra storage or living space? What was that cost of the crawlspace compared to what a basement would cost?
Remember we don't have a frost line so a full basement excavation is pretty costly here in Texas. Especially because we often have rock 1-3' below the surface.
+Aaron Anderson You have to dig below the frost line to properly install footings. In cold environments digging deep needs to be done. More contractors who dig deep in cold environments, more competition, lower prices. You only need to go a few more feet to have full basement height so you're almost there anyway.
I want to add that the clay soils in Texas are typically expansive, meaning they will expand when wet, and shrink when dry, like a sponge. The basement walls would need to be about 12" thick cast concrete, likely with double matted reinforcement to resist soil movement, which gets very expensive. Because of this, basements in most of Texas are rare, limited to higher-end homes.
good reply, one could (as is common in Vancouver) though just make the wall a bit higher and make it a useable space. (doesn't need to be done with concrete perse)
Even cheaper and easier, do a good site prep. build a good high pad for good water run off for your house so that water never has a chance has to settle . One good guy on a bulldozer before you start anything.
Hi 😊 thank you. I’m a single with an incurable autoimmune disease and I’m building my house on my own. It’s tough but I can’t afford professional help. I already have my footing, and my house which is just a shell right now. It’s sitting on blocks not permanently attached yet. I like the idea of a breathable crawl space. My question is: can I do this on my own?
Curios if you ever did the breathable crawl space on your own? If so, how it turn out. If not, what did you end up doing? We are considering the same. Thanks
I have used Pier and Bean 'Post and Beam' foundations many times. However what is not mentioned here is, even as cool as it is, the 'Conditioned space' systems like show here cost a fortune, and well out of reach for the average family to afford.
When you talk about using close cell foam, you are just spaying it on the concrete premier beam walls? Correct? From the video it looks like you are using some kind of floor panel? Something more than 1 1/4" plywood? Looking forward to see the progress.
Matt my vented crawl space houses my electric water heater. If I wanted to convert to conditioned crawl space. Can I and would I start with closing off the vents ? Thanks for all the information you put out.
I did not see an entryway built from the outside in, so I suspect their will be an interior ingress of some sort (a covered hole in a closet somewhere).
What do you do about a plumbing leak in the crawl space? Or if water somehow gets in some other way? Is the rat slab sloped to a drain or sump pump? (which hopefully you would never need)
Matt, could you insulate under the concrete using 1"- 2" insulation foam board? To Enclose the heating envelope? 1st time viewer, love the video. I'll be building in West Virginia. Thanks
you could but that would be a waste. ground temp is stable, heat rises. with a conditioned crawl space the open ground is a non issue in most cases cause the temp is so stable.
IF having a crawl space like this is an option in TX... what about going deeper and build a full basement? Could use similar posts down to bedrock, only instead of a 3 or 4 foot wall, you could place a quality ICF wall that is steel reinforced... I live in San Antonio now, but was raised in Michigan where we had basements... Drives me nuts not having a basement here!
But if you are in clay and have to put in pilings to support the foundation, why not then dig down the extra 6 foot and have a basement? An ICF basement wall with vertical and horizontal steel rebar would be idea! Needless to say, I'm planning to have my basement here some day... muhahaha!
The main reason you have basements in the north and not the south is because code requires footings to go below the frost line. In southern Michigan this is 42", and once you've dug down that far the incremental cost of a full basement isn't large. In many parts of Texas it's only 12", and the incremental cost is much, much larger. When it comes down to where to put money, either in a basement or a second floor, the scale tips towards basement for the north, and second story for the south.
Not allowed by code. It would also increase operating costs of the HVAC system. You are better off with a properly designed ducted supply and return. Most are not properly designed and installed. General contractors and homeowners rarely understand the value of it.
i do that right now with my basement. i dump 90% of my heat directly into the basement and let it filter up from there. it works well for me. i do fill in with space heaters cause my house is a million years old and is very very leaky. i only have to fill in when i gets below 25F
Foremost, great channel and explanation of a conditioned crawlspace. But why a crawlspace at all? Couldn't you easily backfill the interior with crushed stone until above grade and then pour concrete? This seems like a lot of work and materials just to be able to hide floor vents (or whatever the case).
+Steven Race I was thinking the same thing, Interesting videos as always. Where I live prier and beam construction has almost entirely been phased out. Houses will be build on a reinforced concrete slab unless there is too great a gradient in which case pier and beam doesn't work anyway and you will most likely use timber or steel piles
I was thinking the same, but for a different reason. The methods he used are good, but hell, at that point. You're halfway toward a full basement with more usable square footage and storage. Just lengthen the walls. If you just want to air seal, encapsulated without a slab is more than sufficient. This one just leaves me scratching my head and asking why
Matt Risinger would most likely tell you to involve your soil engineer and builder early on in the process when evaluating build locations. The real challenges are typically engineering challenges and are usually overcome with more money (i.e. Golden Gate Bridge, Hoover Dam).
Concrete is slightly porous, so the barrier needs to be on the outside of the concrete. In new construction, the entire basement has Stego or a water-proof coating on the outside.
Hello Matt, after watching so many videos and read so many articles, I still don’t know what’s the difference between pier beam foundation and crawl space foundation. Some insurance companies insure the crawl space foundation, but don’t insure the pier and beam foundation. What’s the key difference in structure’s aspect between these 2 types? Or how to distinguish them from the outside of the house? Or they are just the same? @@
This seems like an overkill stem wall in addition to pier and beam. I’m in a flood zone and this looks expensive and perhaps not permitable because they want water flow not to be obstructed.
here's an updated video from matt .. showing an insulated slab foundation...... dirt < gravel < two layers of foam board (Two- 2 inches of type 9 eps ) < 10 mil poly < 4 inches of concrete pour on top ... 10 mil poly up the wall a foot or so and buried by the closed cell wall foam sprayed around entire perimeter.... ua-cam.com/video/XKp0wRzvR-g/v-deo.html
Matt, I'm thinking of building a house like this. Just curious where would you be putting the access door to go inside the crawlspace. And what dimension would it be if ever have to replace the dehumidifier in the future.
Typically place access in a closet. If you've properly sealed the crawlspace, should not need a dehumidifier as moisture should not be able to enter the crawlspace.
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb Many recommend a dehumidifier for the first year after construction to get rid of the moisture build up from the lumber and concrete drying out.
@@JamesG1126 maybe I wasn't clear - main house needs a dehumidifier - conditoned crawlspace is connected to the main-house hvac, so the crawlspace is also being dehumidified. Don't need a separate dehumidifier for the crawlspace...
the slab is only 2". the wire is for when the concrete does crack and it WILL for sure cause that is what concrete does 100% of the time. with wire the concrete cracks and stays in place, no wire means when the concrete cracks little chunks will be coming out.
I am sick of hearing people recommend full basements, and slab construction, when they see all the work we put into crawlspace is these days. A sealed crawlspace is not taxable square footage. You can have a furnace, water heater, ductwork, water filtration, storage etc., and never pay taxes on that space. You can access 1st floor walls for eternity. The electrician on this home needs to be paid to put in about 20 LED lights that are recessed in the floor system so they do not get banged when people access this space, or use washers to attach the keyless bases so that you can leave a little play in the screws and the bulbs won't break when they are "bumped". Sealed crawlspace aren't "dark", they are pitch black!
No furnace is allowed in crawl space for new construction NJ. If your ac is in the crawl space it takes much longer to service and cost more money . A crawl space is better than a slab for plumbing and electric ,and duct work . They should have a restrictions and be above three feet . That should keep you high and dry and above snow. No one is safe from a major flood .
Great point! Used a light string from eBay with LED bulbs for my Beach house encapsulation project. Just plug it in to the outdoor outlet prior to entry.
Texas property taxes are ridiculous. I don't see why anyone owns a home there. Seems like a very nice house is being built. Too bad it will be taxed in perpetuity year after year for the poor sucker who buys it.
Yes. Pour piers below the frost line every 8 ft put up wet set brackets for the post. Then pour your conditioned slab around the piers the concrete needs to go to the outside of the piers. Your bottom girt board will seal the the concrete. That's how in doing it
Thanks for the reply. I'm going to be building a house in a couple of years (SW Tennessee), and I want a fully encapsulated crawlspace with a slab. I'm in the research phase right now.
+Logger The dipper These are pre-fabricated joist/trusses (assembled in a plant somewhere) and they come with identification tags that correspond with a layout drawing so the installation crew knows exactly which one goes where.
Why not just make the walls taller and have a whole basement and double your living area? If budget is that much of a concern should have just done a damn slab.
This is driving me insane, not this dude and his channel, seems like an honest and good builder. But the way you build in North America... What the frick!?
I'm attempting to buy a house with a large crawlspace and learn as much as possible about them beforehand. This guy is super informational and knows his stuff!
I enclosed my vented crawlspace and it was the best home improvement I've ever done. The improvement to my indoor air quality was wonderful. A nice side benefit is that plumbers and HVAC techs like the clean environment.
Think about adding a dehumidifier in the crawlspace, perhaps on a timer. Problem solved.
Make the return air for the HVAC enter the crawlspace and everything is solved.
Best solution to clean indoor air and to keep Crawlspace healthy 👍👍
California Bay Area same problem Same Solution
Im surprised you didn’t add lighting and an outlet or two I mean if you rarely will use the space when you do it’d be nice to have the lighting and an outlet for tools right
with all the added cost of doing things this way, one might as well just go with a full basement and climate control it in my opinion.
@@jamieofalltrades536 A full basement is a lot more expense. The excavation would be much deeper, the concrete walls would be 2.5 times the height.
@@JamesG1126 yeah, but a basement is more cost effective because of the extra living space. Texas doesn't have many basements though.
@ Basement living area is much more expensive the 2nd story living space especially if you have water issues to deal with.
The issue where he’s at in Texas is the high water table that makes a full basement not very feasible. That’s why you don’t see them in Texas as much. Also the frost line isn’t very deep so there’s not much need for excavating as deep as up North.
I see the value of sealing the crawl space floor and insulating the crawl space walls but I don't see how that precludes venting. The vents can be closed if desired but at least they give the option to cross ventilate the crawl space with fresh air should problems arise.
Great info! Love all your videos
Looking at all of the work involved in that crawlspace, why not just go with a full basement and have the added benefit of extra storage or living space? What was that cost of the crawlspace compared to what a basement would cost?
Remember we don't have a frost line so a full basement excavation is pretty costly here in Texas. Especially because we often have rock 1-3' below the surface.
+Matt Risinger Just curious, how are the two related?
+Aaron Anderson You have to dig below the frost line to properly install footings. In cold environments digging deep needs to be done. More contractors who dig deep in cold environments, more competition, lower prices. You only need to go a few more feet to have full basement height so you're almost there anyway.
I want to add that the clay soils in Texas are typically expansive, meaning they will expand when wet, and shrink when dry, like a sponge. The basement walls would need to be about 12" thick cast concrete, likely with double matted reinforcement to resist soil movement, which gets very expensive. Because of this, basements in most of Texas are rare, limited to higher-end homes.
good reply, one could (as is common in Vancouver) though just make the wall a bit higher and make it a useable space. (doesn't need to be done with concrete perse)
Even cheaper and easier, do a good site prep. build a good high pad for good water run off for your house so that water never has a chance has to settle . One good guy on a bulldozer before you start anything.
How healthy is the indoor air quality when that closed sell foam off-gasses inside your home?
Nice tutorial excellent work
You only get once chance to get it right, contractors are in a hurry but the customer has to live with it a long time.
How much more does this cost vs a slab foundation?
would you still make a conditioned crawl space if using precast concrete flooring on footings? Thanks. (Love the shows, by the way)
I've a question, if you're pouring a slab anyway, why not just build the house on a slab and forgot the crawlspace?
Hi 😊 thank you.
I’m a single with an incurable autoimmune disease and I’m building my house on my own. It’s tough but I can’t afford professional help.
I already have my footing, and my house which is just a shell right now.
It’s sitting on blocks not permanently attached yet.
I like the idea of a breathable crawl space.
My question is: can I do this on my own?
Curios if you ever did the breathable crawl space on your own? If so, how it turn out. If not, what did you end up doing? We are considering the same. Thanks
How thick is the slab since it’s not really structural?
What is the access entry like that will not compromise the conditioned space? Does anyone make an interior access as well?
I thought Texas had to have vents in the crawl space... I'm trying to get around this.
I have used Pier and Bean 'Post and Beam' foundations many times. However what is not mentioned here is, even as cool as it is, the 'Conditioned space' systems like show here cost a fortune, and well out of reach for the average family to afford.
Makes sense. I was thinking damn that's gonna be a nice house.
It’s actually *_not_* that expensive, especially if you consider the benefits.
Just build on stilts, free flowing air under house.
@@madman432000 problem with that is more opportunities for termites, rot, and mold growth
This is $10k or less additional cost over a conventional crawl space. Worth it.
When you talk about using close cell foam, you are just spaying it on the concrete premier beam walls? Correct? From the video it looks like you are using some kind of floor panel? Something more than 1 1/4" plywood? Looking forward to see the progress.
Luv it
How do you seal between the perimeter wall and the concrete floor and keep water from coming in?
Darn, no replies; that's exactly what I was looking for as well.
Matt my vented crawl space houses my electric water heater. If I wanted to convert to conditioned crawl space. Can I and would I start with closing off the vents ? Thanks for all the information you put out.
Is there a vent between the crawlspace and the conditioned inside?
Would this mitigate radon risk for a new build and passive house concept? (Tightly sealed home)
Do you use another vapor barrier in the floor? Since you are insulating the perimeter, is there insulation in the floor?
What is this framing method called of putting the joists on the inside of the perimeter wall like you have it? Instead of on top of it.
Not sure
What is the increase in costs versus traditional crawl space foundations?
Do you only do jobs in Texas or would you come to Florida?
I didn't hear any mention of radon mitigation. I'm curious if you implemented a sub-slab vent pipe.
No Radon issues here in Austin TX
Matt love this concept, def. doing this is my build.Question- if need to get into crawl space how do you?
I did not see an entryway built from the outside in, so I suspect their will be an interior ingress of some sort (a covered hole in a closet somewhere).
What do you do about a plumbing leak in the crawl space? Or if water somehow gets in some other way? Is the rat slab sloped to a drain or sump pump? (which hopefully you would never need)
Plumbing leak,,, find a skinny plumber
First thought: Why? Just why?
Matt, could you insulate under the concrete using 1"- 2" insulation foam board?
To Enclose the heating envelope?
1st time viewer, love the video.
I'll be building in West Virginia.
Thanks
ua-cam.com/video/XKp0wRzvR-g/v-deo.html
you could but that would be a waste. ground temp is stable, heat rises. with a conditioned crawl space the open ground is a non issue in most cases cause the temp is so stable.
How much is all that?
IF having a crawl space like this is an option in TX... what about going deeper and build a full basement? Could use similar posts down to bedrock, only instead of a 3 or 4 foot wall, you could place a quality ICF wall that is steel reinforced... I live in San Antonio now, but was raised in Michigan where we had basements... Drives me nuts not having a basement here!
+William Du Chene me too. Grew up in PA.
+William Du Chene rock and the expensive excavation is the main reason not to dig a full basement.
is excavation most of the expense, or would that be the added building materials for the basement?
But if you are in clay and have to put in pilings to support the foundation, why not then dig down the extra 6 foot and have a basement? An ICF basement wall with vertical and horizontal steel rebar would be idea! Needless to say, I'm planning to have my basement here some day... muhahaha!
The main reason you have basements in the north and not the south is because code requires footings to go below the frost line. In southern Michigan this is 42", and once you've dug down that far the incremental cost of a full basement isn't large. In many parts of Texas it's only 12", and the incremental cost is much, much larger. When it comes down to where to put money, either in a basement or a second floor, the scale tips towards basement for the north, and second story for the south.
Isn't best practice to place 4'' of crushed rock on the floor and then vapor barrier on top of that?
Did you consider using the conditioned crawlspace as the plenum for the HVAC?
Interesting, so you would pressurize the entire crawl space and have floor vents to the house? That would save allot of duct work.
@@madman432000 - not pressurized - used for return air instead. You would still need ducts for air from the HVAC unit to each room vent.
- not pressurized - used for return air instead. You would still need ducts for air from the HVAC unit to each room vent.
Not allowed by code. It would also increase operating costs of the HVAC system. You are better off with a properly designed ducted supply and return. Most are not properly designed and installed. General contractors and homeowners rarely understand the value of it.
i do that right now with my basement. i dump 90% of my heat directly into the basement and let it filter up from there. it works well for me. i do fill in with space heaters cause my house is a million years old and is very very leaky. i only have to fill in when i gets below 25F
Foremost, great channel and explanation of a conditioned crawlspace. But why a crawlspace at all?
Couldn't you easily backfill the interior with crushed stone until above grade and then pour concrete? This seems like a lot of work and materials just to be able to hide floor vents (or whatever the case).
+Steven Race I was thinking the same thing, Interesting videos as always. Where I live prier and beam construction has almost entirely been phased out. Houses will be build on a reinforced concrete slab unless there is too great a gradient in which case pier and beam doesn't work anyway and you will most likely use timber or steel piles
I believe on this particular project the conditioned crawlspace serves as a chase for the air ducts, but I am not certain.
I was thinking the same, but for a different reason. The methods he used are good, but hell, at that point. You're halfway toward a full basement with more usable square footage and storage. Just lengthen the walls. If you just want to air seal, encapsulated without a slab is more than sufficient. This one just leaves me scratching my head and asking why
wow jesus that much?! didnt know. thanks for the info. wow, thats expensive.
steveXracer $100,000 imo for a basement is worth it especially in Texas where houses are cheap.
Matt, would this be optimal for the rocky coastal area north of San Fransisco? before we build, I am researching best practices.
Matt Risinger would most likely tell you to involve your soil engineer and builder early on in the process when evaluating build locations. The real challenges are typically engineering challenges and are usually overcome with more money (i.e. Golden Gate Bridge, Hoover Dam).
Paul - what did your engineer say? I am curious.
Would sealing the concrete without having the Stego underneath do the same job?
Concrete is slightly porous, so the barrier needs to be on the outside of the concrete. In new construction, the entire basement has Stego or a water-proof coating on the outside.
✅✅✅✅✅✅✅
Hello Matt, after watching so many videos and read so many articles, I still don’t know what’s the difference between pier beam foundation and crawl space foundation. Some insurance companies insure the crawl space foundation, but don’t insure the pier and beam foundation. What’s the key difference in structure’s aspect between these 2 types? Or how to distinguish them from the outside of the house? Or they are just the same? @@
This seems like an overkill stem wall in addition to pier and beam. I’m in a flood zone and this looks expensive and perhaps not permitable because they want water flow not to be obstructed.
here's an updated video from matt .. showing an insulated slab foundation...... dirt < gravel < two layers of foam board (Two- 2 inches of type 9 eps ) < 10 mil poly < 4 inches of concrete pour on top ... 10 mil poly up the wall a foot or so and buried by the closed cell wall foam sprayed around entire perimeter.... ua-cam.com/video/XKp0wRzvR-g/v-deo.html
Matt, I'm thinking of building a house like this. Just curious where would you be putting the access door to go inside the crawlspace. And what dimension would it be if ever have to replace the dehumidifier in the future.
Typically place access in a closet. If you've properly sealed the crawlspace, should not need a dehumidifier as moisture should not be able to enter the crawlspace.
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb Many recommend a dehumidifier for the first year after construction to get rid of the moisture build up from the lumber and concrete drying out.
@@JamesG1126 maybe I wasn't clear - main house needs a dehumidifier - conditoned crawlspace is connected to the main-house hvac, so the crawlspace is also being dehumidified. Don't need a separate dehumidifier for the crawlspace...
What is the purpose of wire mesh under
a non-load mud slab?
the slab is only 2". the wire is for when the concrete does crack and it WILL for sure cause that is what concrete does 100% of the time. with wire the concrete cracks and stays in place, no wire means when the concrete cracks little chunks will be coming out.
How did your slab crew pull up the wire mesh into the concrete? by hand?
We used Chairs prior to pour to prop them up
+Matt Risinger very good. Thank You
Is wire mesh really required for a non load bearing mud slab?
@@JamesG1126 not required but you dont want to be picking up chunks of concrete as it cracks either. and 100% of the time concrete will crack
Why not use ICFs for the perimeter?
Yeah, I'd like to see this same project, but with ICFs for the foundation beam... bet it would be stronger and a cleaner look than this project..
If you are going to this much trouble, why not have a normal basement?
site built access door?
I am sick of hearing people recommend full basements, and slab construction, when they see all the work we put into crawlspace is these days. A sealed crawlspace is not taxable square footage. You can have a furnace, water heater, ductwork, water filtration, storage etc., and never pay taxes on that space. You can access 1st floor walls for eternity. The electrician on this home needs to be paid to put in about 20 LED lights that are recessed in the floor system so they do not get banged when people access this space, or use washers to attach the keyless bases so that you can leave a little play in the screws and the bulbs won't break when they are "bumped". Sealed crawlspace aren't "dark", they are pitch black!
No furnace is allowed in crawl space for new construction NJ. If your ac is in the crawl space it takes much longer to service and cost more money . A crawl space is better than a slab for plumbing and electric ,and duct work . They should have a restrictions and be above three feet . That should keep you high and dry and above snow. No one is safe from a major flood .
Great point! Used a light string from eBay with LED bulbs for my Beach house encapsulation project. Just plug it in to the outdoor outlet prior to entry.
Texas property taxes are ridiculous. I don't see why anyone owns a home there. Seems like a very nice house is being built. Too bad it will be taxed in perpetuity year after year for the poor sucker who buys it.
Jim Big Could be a disabled veteran who won't pay any property tax for the rest of their life
steveXracer a light switch is infinitely better than a flashlight until the circuit breaker needs to get shut off.
Was the slab also insulated?
Seems like it should be. I see no reason for mesh but at least 2'' of foam insulation between the vapor barrier and slab seems like a good idea.
Can you use this with a post frame building/home?
Yes. Pour piers below the frost line every 8 ft put up wet set brackets for the post. Then pour your conditioned slab around the piers the concrete needs to go to the outside of the piers. Your bottom girt board will seal the the concrete. That's how in doing it
If the slab is laid on grade, will a moister barrier still be needed?
Yes. In Texas (at least) they put down a moisture barrier for slab on grade.
Thanks for the reply. I'm going to be building a house in a couple of years (SW Tennessee), and I want a fully encapsulated crawlspace with a slab. I'm in the research phase right now.
its always required under a slam unless you want humidly issues.
the reality is a conditioned crawl space is not much more expensive then a traditional craswlspace if the owner wants to do alittle of the labor.
What was the yellow piece of paper hanging from the floor Joyce
+Logger The dipper These are pre-fabricated joist/trusses (assembled in a plant somewhere) and they come with identification tags that correspond with a layout drawing so the installation crew knows exactly which one goes where.
I like the vapor barrier in the foundation. Can this also be used on a slap foundation?
ua-cam.com/video/XKp0wRzvR-g/v-deo.html
a vapor barrier is always used on a slab unless you want to deal with the humidity issues by not having one
Why not just make the walls taller and have a whole basement and double your living area? If budget is that much of a concern should have just done a damn slab.
What about termite protection?
We applied Termimesh at the slab/wall joint post pour for a physical barrier to termite entry
No moisture, no termites. They need water to survive...
@@21gonza21 me to,,
@@21gonza21 they are def termite issues in a build like this that MUST be managed
Yes, some techniques are better than others. But there’s no such thing as a “perfectly air sealed, perfectly insulated crawl space”.
yes there is and its not really that hard to do
with spray foam being so diy friendly 100% air sealing just isint terrible difficult anymore
This is driving me insane, not this dude and his channel, seems like an honest and good builder. But the way you build in North America... What the frick!?
What's wrong with it?
this is the best way to build, show me a better way please