The most difficult part is making a housing for the shaft that mounts to the board. I made mine with roller bearings from McMaster and threaded on the outside so I could adjust the cut length. I'm sure there are other methods you could use.
Nicely done! Turn on and go do something else! I actually rigged a setup to part the shoulder off in my 12x36 lathe. Then discovered I can grind the neck and shoulder off in 3 to 4 seconds on my 2x72" belt grinder w/ceramic belt. That's my next step, rig up a simple, two piece, v-block style fixture, and grind the occasional small batch I need for my CZ 527. For someone loading for an AR, your device would be hard to be without!
As I have gotten into 3D printing because of Ammo Mike’s Bullet Collator, I’m looking at your amazing design and imagining it’s redesign with some 3D plastic printed parts. Things like mounting brackets, the bullet spindle, and switch box/plate could be 3D printed. I don’t know about the adjustable sawblade arbor, but I’ll have to experiment. Thank you for the design idea. If I get around to doing this, I’ll create a Bill of Materials and the STL files for people to make their own, and link it to you.
I think you could certainly print several of the parts you mentioned. The saw blade arbor has some pretty fine threads so I don't think you'll be able to do that based on the precision of the 3d parts I've seen. If you can, that would be great because that is the hardest part to make. I've thought about redesigning it to get away from that part, but I really haven't put much time into it.
This is pretty bad ass. I have been trimming with a Honey Badger on my Dillon, but the huge amount of shavings generated tends to clog the vacuum hose. I could see running the cases through something like this first to reduce that. You could set the rough trimmer to run while the operator does the finish operation with the power trimmer on the press. This would also have some application for rough trimming cases other than 300blk where a trim die might not be available, or the case is too short (like 7.62x25).
Ha this is so awesome dude. I've been using a little handheld copper pipe cutter I got to install my gas stove. I'm cheap. Can't spend$75 on a lil chopsaw lol but this is coo.
You should mount two drop aprons. The one in place is good for the shells, but a second apron beginning in plane with the cutting blade would ensure the cut ends don't drop into the casing bucket. If you're still using this setup. If you are still using it, do you like it and have you modified it?
Yeah, I had the idea for the second chute to catch the tops but haven't installed it yet. I haven't modified this design because I haven't cut many cases in the last year.
This is really smart. I'm looking into reloading 300 blackout and I'm not sure what is the best way to do it. I'm definitely not smart or handy enough to put something like this together but this would sure help. I'm confused by things like the trimming, then chamfering/debur and annealing like I don't get the whole process but I'm just learning, it's a first for me. Anyway, this was really cool.
You don't need to build a machine like this if you only need a few hundred cases. There are simpler ways to trim down a small number of cases. I needed this because I had a 55 gallon drum of brass. There are plenty of other UA-cam videos that will walk you through the process step by step. It isn't hard. Good luck, have fun.
@@runforyourlife9684 Ah, gotcha! Yeah it wouldn’t be more than a few hundred cases at most. That’s good to know it’s not too difficult. Appreciate it :)
Awesome contraption, I'm gonna try and whip up one of these myself. For that case feeding drum did you buy it and modify it from the brass annealing machine or you just made your own? I saw that other video you mentioned and seems like the material of the wheel is important or else it can get caught up on something, I can only find case feeding drums with one cut out.
I made the drum out of a piece of 2x4 with a hole saw. I drilled hole along the perimeter and filed the edges so the case would drop in. I cut a small piece of aluminum sheet and screwed it to the back to hold the case rim. If you don't have that the case will fly out when it hits the blade.
The cases are pretty consistent. About 1 per hundred or two (.5 to 1%) are a little shorter. I've no idea why since they occur randomly. I don't think the blade gets that hot since it is spinning so fast and it has time to cool off between cuts.
I sold it a month ago. A "reasonable" price would be about $400 based on the time it takes me to machine parts, put everything together, etc. That is why I never marketed them. My time is worth too much to make it profitable.
As for the annealing machine, I'm sure you could. That was actually the inspiration for me to use the rotating drum. I just put four slots in it instead of the one. Here is what you need to do: Figure out what type of saw you are going to use and how you'll drive it. Then you need to be able to adjust the length of cut. Most importantly you'll need to hold the shells in the drum securely while they are being cut. I used a piece of aluminum like a shell plate so the shells wouldn't fly out and I used a little strip of felt in the drum so the shell wouldn't spin.
Make me a decent offer and I may decide to make these for sale. Just consider there is over $100 in materials and it takes the better part of a day to make, with all the fabrication that needs to be done.
Yeah, I've since changed the guard to one that spits out the necks and cases separately, like everyone suggested. I also upgraded the motor so now it cuts cases almost as fast as I can load them on the hopper. Hopefully I'll have time to do an updated video.
The way I converted AC to DC was to just use a universal, plug in the wall, DC charger from Amazon. Here is the link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006GEPUYA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is the gear motor I used: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BX54O8A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 So the power coming from the wall is split; one line going to the DC converter and the other end directly to the AC motor. From the DC converter, the DC power goes to the speed controller and then to the motor. Here is the motor speed controller I used: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TH4EN6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is a link to the upgraded cutter motor I put on in the new video: www.ebay.com/itm/AMETEK-LAMB-5409-33-2-Universal-AC-DC-Mtr-1-4hp-19-500rpm-120V/223756743602?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Hope that helps.
Wow now that's a great idea. I am going to build one . I a jistbgetting into 300.blackout and this seems like a time saver once its built.
The most difficult part is making a housing for the shaft that mounts to the board. I made mine with roller bearings from McMaster and threaded on the outside so I could adjust the cut length. I'm sure there are other methods you could use.
Nicely done! Turn on and go do something else!
I actually rigged a setup to part the shoulder off in my 12x36 lathe. Then discovered I can grind the neck and shoulder off in 3 to 4 seconds on my 2x72" belt grinder w/ceramic belt. That's my next step, rig up a simple, two piece, v-block style fixture, and grind the occasional small batch I need for my CZ 527.
For someone loading for an AR, your device would be hard to be without!
As I have gotten into 3D printing because of Ammo Mike’s Bullet Collator, I’m looking at your amazing design and imagining it’s redesign with some 3D plastic printed parts. Things like mounting brackets, the bullet spindle, and switch box/plate could be 3D printed. I don’t know about the adjustable sawblade arbor, but I’ll have to experiment. Thank you for the design idea. If I get around to doing this, I’ll create a Bill of Materials and the STL files for people to make their own, and link it to you.
I think you could certainly print several of the parts you mentioned. The saw blade arbor has some pretty fine threads so I don't think you'll be able to do that based on the precision of the 3d parts I've seen. If you can, that would be great because that is the hardest part to make. I've thought about redesigning it to get away from that part, but I really haven't put much time into it.
This is pretty bad ass. I have been trimming with a Honey Badger on my Dillon, but the huge amount of shavings generated tends to clog the vacuum hose. I could see running the cases through something like this first to reduce that. You could set the rough trimmer to run while the operator does the finish operation with the power trimmer on the press.
This would also have some application for rough trimming cases other than 300blk where a trim die might not be available, or the case is too short (like 7.62x25).
Sir your an engineering genius. 😀
Thanks
Ha this is so awesome dude. I've been using a little handheld copper pipe cutter I got to install my gas stove. I'm cheap. Can't spend$75 on a lil chopsaw lol but this is coo.
Pretty dang nifty! Great work...
A 5 rpm motor with 4 shell slots should cut 20 per minute. Unless it's bogging down when cutting. Cool setup.
You should mount two drop aprons. The one in place is good for the shells, but a second apron beginning in plane with the cutting blade would ensure the cut ends don't drop into the casing bucket. If you're still using this setup.
If you are still using it, do you like it and have you modified it?
Yeah, I had the idea for the second chute to catch the tops but haven't installed it yet. I haven't modified this design because I haven't cut many cases in the last year.
Beautifully simple design!
Thanks.
Thats cool brother, God bless you 🙏
Brilliant!!! Best design ever.
Thanks.
This is really smart. I'm looking into reloading 300 blackout and I'm not sure what is the best way to do it. I'm definitely not smart or handy enough to put something like this together but this would sure help. I'm confused by things like the trimming, then chamfering/debur and annealing like I don't get the whole process but I'm just learning, it's a first for me. Anyway, this was really cool.
You don't need to build a machine like this if you only need a few hundred cases. There are simpler ways to trim down a small number of cases. I needed this because I had a 55 gallon drum of brass. There are plenty of other UA-cam videos that will walk you through the process step by step. It isn't hard. Good luck, have fun.
@@runforyourlife9684 Ah, gotcha! Yeah it wouldn’t be more than a few hundred cases at most. That’s good to know it’s not too difficult. Appreciate it :)
Awesome idea. I have been looking for a better way to make 300 blkout brass. I might have to copy your idea.
Have at it. Takes some tuning to get it right, but once it is it's great.
I'm making one and you should patent this bad boy
Awesome contraption, I'm gonna try and whip up one of these myself. For that case feeding drum did you buy it and modify it from the brass annealing machine or you just made your own? I saw that other video you mentioned and seems like the material of the wheel is important or else it can get caught up on something, I can only find case feeding drums with one cut out.
I made the drum out of a piece of 2x4 with a hole saw. I drilled hole along the perimeter and filed the edges so the case would drop in. I cut a small piece of aluminum sheet and screwed it to the back to hold the case rim. If you don't have that the case will fly out when it hits the blade.
@@runforyourlife9684 Thanks a lot for the info!
How consistent is the case length? Are you seeing significant variation when the blade heats up after continuous use?
The cases are pretty consistent. About 1 per hundred or two (.5 to 1%) are a little shorter. I've no idea why since they occur randomly. I don't think the blade gets that hot since it is spinning so fast and it has time to cool off between cuts.
double the capacity by adding 4 more notches in the feed wheel and keep your same feed rate. GTG
Im interested, have you figured out a reasonable price to make and sell? Also can you make it a bit shorter and narrower?
I sold it a month ago. A "reasonable" price would be about $400 based on the time it takes me to machine parts, put everything together, etc. That is why I never marketed them. My time is worth too much to make it profitable.
Really cool
Thanks.
Holy heck
Holy heck
Hhhoollyyy hheeccckkk
Can I convert my annealeze machine I don't use anymore to do this ????
So cool
😁Thanks
As for the annealing machine, I'm sure you could. That was actually the inspiration for me to use the rotating drum. I just put four slots in it instead of the one. Here is what you need to do: Figure out what type of saw you are going to use and how you'll drive it. Then you need to be able to adjust the length of cut. Most importantly you'll need to hold the shells in the drum securely while they are being cut. I used a piece of aluminum like a shell plate so the shells wouldn't fly out and I used a little strip of felt in the drum so the shell wouldn't spin.
Awsome idea !
How much for this set up?? I’m willing to buy it off you or have you make me one!
Make me a decent offer and I may decide to make these for sale. Just consider there is over $100 in materials and it takes the better part of a day to make, with all the fabrication that needs to be done.
Love it.
sounds very Rube Goldbergish, but if it works for you, good on ya.
Not really. Rube Goldberg means it has lots of unnecessary steps. This is pretty much the opposite.
Needs and auto lubes
Sketchy without any guarding. Awesome idea though.
Yeah, I've since changed the guard to one that spits out the necks and cases separately, like everyone suggested. I also upgraded the motor so now it cuts cases almost as fast as I can load them on the hopper. Hopefully I'll have time to do an updated video.
@@runforyourlife9684 yes please do a detailed updated video. Im very interested
@@brandonbowling490 I did a quick update here: ua-cam.com/video/Su8CEor7QbA/v-deo.html
Making making mak.... Gets to dc, ac shiz. Well guess it wasn't for me.
The way I converted AC to DC was to just use a universal, plug in the wall, DC charger from Amazon. Here is the link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006GEPUYA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the gear motor I used: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BX54O8A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So the power coming from the wall is split; one line going to the DC converter and the other end directly to the AC motor. From the DC converter, the DC power goes to the speed controller and then to the motor. Here is the motor speed controller I used: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TH4EN6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is a link to the upgraded cutter motor I put on in the new video: www.ebay.com/itm/AMETEK-LAMB-5409-33-2-Universal-AC-DC-Mtr-1-4hp-19-500rpm-120V/223756743602?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Hope that helps.
@@runforyourlife9684 man you are super awesome. Thank you.