Great videos! I just want to say that it's been about a year since I started getting into statuary and I want to give you credit that your videos were by far the most helpful so thank you. Your explaining is very clear and I even ended buying the same type of rubber latex from TAP plastics that you ended up getting. I initially bought the mold building stuff but I didn't like how thin it was. I did my first 2 molds with that latex and my other 3 with what you have and I must say that it's a much better product (unfortunately its sold out with like a 26 week wait period atm). After making 5 molds I do have some tips for people that I found made life easier or nice to know in general. - First thing is; instead of using cards to do the seams it's much easier and less time consuming to use aluminum tape. - Because this specific rubber latex is thicker than other liquid latex, I found only 8 layers is suffice instead of the typical 12-14 layers. Considering you're looking at over $100 per gallon for the rubber latex, doing less layers will make it so you can do 1-2 more molds. And as you pointed out in other comments, it's the mother mold that really holds the shape and 8 layers makes it thick enough not to rip when taking it off. - Last thing you want to know is when casting statues back to back with this specific latex you might come across liquid bubbles popping up under the latex. I think this is specific to this type of liquid latex as it doesn't do it with my 'mold builder" latex molds. This will create little bubbles in your pieces that arent really noticeable but if you plan on selling the statues you might have some OCD about it. You can take a small needle and poke a hole and push the liquid out or suck it out with a syringe. Your other option is to keep it in a dry, warm spot (NOT OUTSIDE IN THE SUN) and just let it dry out; usually waiting a day between castings will make it so that this doesn't happen. - Another alternative method besides the blue painters tape and wax is to just coat the latex mold with PVA (Poly Vinyl Alcohol), that creates a thin film layer around the latex and prevents the fiberglass from sticking to it. I find 2 layers is suffice going that method but if you're worried about it still sticking then you can do a couple extra layers. There is an upside of using the tape though and that is the fiberglass will come off easier; which lessens the chance of you breaking the piece you're making a mold out of. That comes in handy when you use hollow pieces to make a mold out of. You could even use the tape method and then put PVA on top of the tape so it doesnt stick/become part of the fiberglass mother mold. Just all up to preference. Hope you don't mind me sharing some tips and info that I ran into the last year making these molds. I've watched 20-30 videos on how to make these and as I said this is the best I've come across. Not only do you give info on every step of the process but you show what materials you use; it truly is the best one stop shop for learning how to do this stuff. Great job again. P.S. I'm totally jealous of your tortoise statue lol
Wow...helpful advice and this is also encouraging! I am getting ready to make a new mold (if I can get the latex rubber soon). I enjoyed making the videos and learned so much from others on UA-cam, too! I am wanting to try the aluminum tape at some point, but have never had it around when I am motivated to work on molds. The PVA is heavily mentioned by mold makers, too, so I guess I need to try that! Good advice to consider. That tortoise has been a popular statue, and my original mold is on its last days! Anyway, thanks again and blessing!
@@backyardadventureswithandy I will mention that the PVA makes the fiberglass come off much harder compared to your video with the tape. I actually just finished a mold yesterday of a 13 inch owl perched on at log from an old piggy bank and actually broke the head when prying the top of the fiberglass off, it didn’t take much. I might switch to the tape and pva method myself on pieces that I borrow from people and/don’t want to break. I think if it was solid it would of been fine but as you know it seems like the porcelain statues seem to have the best designs for concrete ones. If you make a video of your new mold making process I’ll be sure to tune in :) I’ll subscribe now and keep an eye out on your new content! Good luck!!
Thanks for watching, and yes, it's a fair amount of work at the front, but pretty rewarding and the results lasts so long, making statues year after year.
@@backyardadventureswithandy Is it possible to coat a plaster of Paris ceramic mold with this latex and be able to use for a concrete mold? I have hundreds of ceramic molds and wood like to be able to make concrete statues.
I’ve been trying to make a mold of my wife while she’s sleeping but the blue tape doesn’t stick to her very well. I’m on coat 3, hope she turns out well!
👍🏻 great tutorial and explanation. I started to watch to learn how this was done and 15 minutes in realized this was more involved than I was willing to take on, but watched until the end out of interest. It made me realize why concrete yard ornaments can be pricey….a lot of work goes into them! 🤔☺️
Yes, it is quite a bit of work initially to make. Some can be done in simpler ways, but it has made appreciate what I see from garden stores a bit more. I think its a hard business to do well in for the statue makers.
Well hello I was looking up videos on how to fix my turtle and your videos popped up and now I'm watching all of them thank you so much. Love watching videos❤❤❤❤
This such an amazing tutorial. Thank you for sharing it all with all the important details. I came looking for how to make molds for tiny concrete statues. But I found this video, and now I’m ready to go big 😅 Again, thank you so much! ❤
Watching this was pleasantly relaxing... As for the chicken-rooster.... It DOES look like a rooster tail with a hen head... Cant wait to see how it turns out!
@@backyardadventureswithandy I looked at the website and they are all sold out!! I asked them when they would get some more and they said they didn’t know. I don’t have a store around me that sells it so I’ll have to wait. THANK YOU so much for your great videos and advice!!
Yes, when it is done, dry it and then donthe same process as in my videos. I've altered or fixed some statues with clay, and then cast them. Good luck!
That's really cool. I couldn't tell with the playing cards though, I could see that painters tape was used to hold them together but was the painters tape used to hold one side of the cards to the first coat of latex? I was wondering if the tape would cause any distortion in the shape of the item that might show up in the concrete cast?
Good question! The tape does not cause any noticeable difference or distortion. I've looked closely several times, and am quite pleased with the results.
Can any liquid latex rubber be used? I see some liquid latex rubber that is for roof repair. Will that work just as well? Please share where you get your liquid latex rubber. Thank you!
The materials I have used are mostly from TAP Plastics. I have used a few off of Amazon, and there are other brands, but I think a roofing latex would be different and not work.
Do you need to coat the top of the wood that you are using as a base so that the latex will come off when you are ready? also Im assuming the critter somehow pops off even though you have hot glued around the edges??
I usually have not coated the wood with anything, but I have started to add a single layer of the blue tape to the wood if it is very porous, because the latex does stick more to the wood. Sometimes, I have a wood that has a coating on it, or even better, a cutting board that is plastic. If I were you, I would just put a bit of clue tape on the surface and it allows the latex to pop off easily,
I am stuck! I have a bear statue that I want to make a latex mold of. He does not have a flat bottom base though; he has 4 legs that are all in contact with the ground. Assuming that the bear will be upside down when pouring the concrete (I think that's best?) Is making a number of seams on the legs the way to go? If so I fail to see how the mold can be fully removed. I keep staring at this thing. I wanted to avoid a seam that runs along the top of the head down its back but I am thinking that's the only way to do this. Once concrete is set, stand the bear upright, pull the seam apart down over his head head and back then pull the latex down towards all four legs/feet (kind of at the same time) until it's removed. I would just hate to have the big seam where there is so much detail (the fur marks) all the way across his back and head. Filling the mold from all four of the legs seems odd (given the size of his feet) but I think it would work. The only other way - maybe - is turn him upside down and put a seam on the inside of each leg and then connect the back legs with an additional seam, connect the two front legs with an additional seam and the connect the two seams between each set of legs with another seam. So technically 3 seams: one full seam between the back legs, one full seam between the front legs and a middle seam that connects the two previous seams.
Hi, great info. However, I am allergic to epoxy resin. Would it be possible to put the latex mold in a bucket and fill around with something else, like sand to keep the shape.. hmm the sand would probably collapse the mold?.. I can imagine the problems that might present, but do you have any suggestions?
Thank you! This is one of the best mold making tutorial that I've watched! Very informative and the step by step has been excellent. Have you ever used this technique with silicone?
Thanks and I am glad you enjoyed it. I have not used silicone, and part of my "problem" is that this is mostly a hobby thing, so I make 1-3 new statue molds per year, so not enough to experiment a lot.
Let em see if I can explain this... The first coat of latex is over the entire statue. This means that any seams that are added will have that first layer NOT part of the seam, so for the seam to come apart, it must be cut open. It is an ultra-thin layer of latex, so using the knife works well to create the seam.
Thanks for the lesson. A question: You didn't mention how you get the playing card flange placed onto the form or attached to it? I understand making the seam. I just don't get what you are doing to have it stay in place before adding more rubber?
Good question, and I am not sure if there is a better way to do this, but it works for me. What I do is basically tape the cards onto the statue. At first, the playing cards are a bit more fragile in their position, but as the flange gets made and more and more tape is added, the form strengthens. Sometimes, I have to be careful until I get the first coat of latex on there, as I don't want the positioning of the flange to shift. Once the latex dries on that first coat, it essentially glues everything in place.
I have been making molds for about 6 months, your video is super. I have found it is easier to cover your Latex, with tin foil, then with tape ( before you fiberglass). it just me cheaper and easier clean up. you have to Clamp after you are done fiber glassing, Before you drill your Bolt holes.
Thanks for the tip and I might try this next time and see if it eliminates the petroleum jelly that I lightly put on it. do you have any challenges with the fiberglass catching on the foil?
Proud henster. Helpful video, thanks so much. Want to replicate some garden planter urns. I'm watching videos about various techniques and products for creating ornate molds in hopes I won't waste lots of $ & time in fails. It is enjoyable to watch these videos. Increases anticipation & excitement, too! Thanks!
Thanks so much for sharing the content. Very helpful! Question....I would like to make a mold from a tall “smooth” column. Ultimately, where I will have 8’ tall outdoor concrete columns. I want to have a mold out of fiberglass...and gel coat. I don’t think I will need latex mold inside...since there is hardly and details to it. So if I brush on gel coat before putting fiberglass...when would I need to start the separation flange all the way around it....because ultimately the gel coat will be part of the fiberglass mold at the end....unlike the latex mold and fiberglass mother mold. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
I think you are heading in the right direction, as the latex mold is really for detailed pieces. I have not used the gel coat or done what you are talking about, but the concept of what you describe seems to make sense. Just be sure that you can demold the piece without concrete being stuck to the mold.
For years I have wanted to make an 18" concrete, plain goose that can be dressed in sewn cloths as a male or female. I would like to try make a mold for a resin garden art rooster.
Hi Mr.Wright, it’s sejal. What you make is really cool and I look forward to trying it out. Mia is very cute and I’ve watched many of your videos. How many days does it take to make one of those and what paint do you use for the rooster. See you tomorrow
Making a statue with a mold is actually pretty fast, if you have the mold. The hardest and longest part is making the mold, which can take several weeks or a month. But, once the mold is made, the statue takes about 15 minutes to prepare, 2 days to dry, and another 15 minutes after the concrete has dried to remove it from the mold. And, for the paint, I use am inexpensive exterior latex paint mixed with extra water, along with a little bit of white paint.
Before I tackle a larger project (I have big ambitions!) I opted to make sure I could pull it off by replicating a small random garden decor I've had for decades. I go over to the barn and give it one coat a day (missed a couple due to the unbearable heat) and I'm finally to the point where I started to wonder about the nooks and crannies. Having inherited bags of fiberfil I'll start working it into those gaps as I complete the last layerings. I'm not sure something this small (approx 10"×8") requires a mother mold, so I'm wondering if it's possible to put the mold in a pan and use sand to surround in and support the form while I pour the concrete?
Hello, and yes, sand works just fine as a support. I have one statue that is like 3 inches tall, and I just put it in a coffee cup upside down, and that is enough support. The fiberglass part is my least favorite part, but it also is pretty satisfying to complete. What are you hoping to copy? I am finishing a replacement of my tortoise mold, and also shopping around for my next statue.
@backyardadventureswithandy my mom was a collector....her particular fondness was anything owls. She passed in 2013 and we are just now figuring out what to do with it all. Many many years ago my aunt, her sister, gave my mom 3 large lamps with owls as the base about a foot and a half tall and about as wide. I opted to take them and try to turn them into molds for statuary. I've done mother molds before, and I wholeheartedly agree it's a nasty, sticky, smelly job🫢🥴
Very nicely explained how to do a latex mold, thank you for taking the time to teach us! Maybe I have missed it or it is not necessary, but may I ask what you use to seal your model to make sure the Latex comes off?? Is this even necessary when the model is painted and sealed with Varathane or in my case Concrete Sealer ? Any response is greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot!
I have found that the latex comes off most things without a problem. I once had more porous wood that it was on, and it did come off, but required some extra pull and care. As for the model item you are casting, I have never sealed an item before casting. If an item was quite porous, I might consider sealing it to make the casting easier.
@@backyardadventureswithandy just trying my first latex mould, any tips for a beginner mate? do you use latex thickener as a tub doesn't seem to go very far.
Great video.. how much latex rubber did you use out of that bucket for the3molds you made in this series, I’m guessing it was a gallon bucket. Kinda wanted to know how far the gallon would go. Or if a quart would do. Thanks.
@@backyardadventureswithandy I have a few questions if you dont mind.. How would you go about making a mother mold for a rubber mold , I have a rubber mold and that's it . Would I stuff it with rags or something ? Then tape it off and proceed with the resin? Also tape doesn't seem to wanna stick to the rubber mold.. Not sure if I should make a 2 piece mother mold for this small iguana mold , that's the mold I have . Any help would be awesome thank you..
Yes, I altered a couple figurines I found with clay, and the finished product turned out great. I did let the clay dry a bit, which I think was needed.
I found this to be very informative. I have to try to make a gargoyle from an existing one. One of my two got stolen and the company that made them is no longer in business. Why type of concrete do you use?
Mark, if I understand you correctly, the latex will peel off the original mold fairly easily. For example, the porcelain chicken, plastic squirrel, and concrete racoon all worked out great, including the plywood bases. Part of what is great about the latex is that it takes on the amazing details of the mold, including wood grain patters, little divots, scratches, or holes, etc. Test your latex first by painting a bit on and seeing how it comes off when dry.
Yes, anything can be made. I have thought of a similar type thing for walking stones, but the reality is that a hard mold is probably way more efficient and sufficient than a latex mold. If there is a lot of detail desired, then a latex mold is beneficial.
@backyardadventureswithandy this is what I had in mind ua-cam.com/video/EuOIEe_q2J0/v-deo.html&feature=share7 Tried contacting the company but no response. I was thinking a base plate with a cylinder to make the hole, but needed a mold to make the "teeth".
I think this could work for simple things, but I am not sure how the strength and flexibility of the mold would last compared to the process of the many coats of thin latex.
I don't sell my molds because the cost and time to make one makes them more expensive than most people realize. This is a hobby more than a business for me.
I’ve been trying to buy the latex you use for weeks and it’s sold out. I’m reading there is some shortage of one of the ingredients. Do you have an alternative you’d recommend?
The latex can be used for any mold you want, and it carries the details in a nice way. I've thought about duplicating a nice bird batch, but have not done so yet!
I tried the hot glue but the ornament was stuck to the wood permanently so I used white silicone sealer instead and it's great I leave it for a few hours before making my mould and it's easyer to pop of when I want to put another ornament in its place.another thing I do mix up a little plaster or use poly filler and fill in the gap around the ornaments base to stop latex seaping under when you make your mould
Again, thanks for the tip. I remember a couple hot glue items that required a screw driver or something to pry a part, but the silicone seems like an idea to try. Good luck in statue stuff!
@@backyardadventureswithandy thank you I'm not new to statues I go back to 1979 when I was 19. I was out most of the time with mates and girls so normal life. But I was an allrounder making plaster. Resin. Concrete. Anything new to cast I wanted to know what it was. I also tried as many mould making techniques as I could. And then I wanted to do different techniques on painting finishing the casts of. Then I was a moderator on a sculpting casting forum. The moderator has never left me as when I see some one doing something I feel I want to help. But there have been a couple of times I've been told to mind my own business go and do it your way and I'll do mine. 😂 But I can't help myself.
The concepts are the same, however the spot where the pot or opening will go can be a "plug," which basically fills the space you will want for the dirt.
I've had small parts where it starts to pull away, but I just continued to "paint over it" as it was mostly in the same spot. The molds turned out great. However, I have heard that this can be a problem in some cases.
@@sturfam From the bottom of the mouth down the neck, I followed an area that made it look like part of the neck-ripples. The seam went through the "chest" area. I am preparing to remake it as I finally wore out my first one, and one thing I have done is thicken the area by the front right leg, as it was the most fragile part of the statue...or the part that breaks the easiest. Also, I cleaned up the old air bubbles on the shell.
Thanks for this helpful video. I didn't catch how you make your card seam stay in place on the rooster or racoon . Are you just taping to the first layer of rubber? and do you need to cut the tape off at some point? Would super appreciate any further explanation of that part of process. Thanks! ( I've been working on a gargoyle mold with wings--and attempting a seam technique very similar to your chicken. Had a terrible time trying to keep the cards in place by lightly pinning--but they just kept slipping when I started brushing on next rubber layer. )
It is a little challenging to see in the video, but I take the cards and get them shaped pretty much where I want them, and then take tape and start getting them to hold in place with the tape. Once you have a couple in place and and if you're careful, then they tend to stay in place because of the shape.
@@backyardadventureswithandy Thanks so much for that fast reply! It looks like you were much more accurate with the contours than I was--I will try to do the same next time : )
@@backyardadventureswithandy when I saw this part i thought that there has to be a faster and less expensive way than using a deck of cards and tracing and cutting 3.5 inches at a time. I'm wondering if a wax paper or even wax paper glue-sticked (yes that should be a verb) to both sides of card stock and then tracing would be a faster , more accurate, and less expensive way of doing this. IDK if this is a hobby or income for you but if I were doing this as a business or side gig and making a lot of casts, then I would definitely look into other materials that could be traced and placed in 1 step instead of 3.5" x 2.5" cards. Maybe a deck of cards is cheap but I can guess how time consuming this could become. I'm an (armature) artist/crafter and used to make a million things for my sorority sisters and other various groups in college and would spend half of that time measuring, cutting, and placing painters tape "just right" so I could get the results I wanted. 15-20 years later, now there's pintrest and tiktok and ofc youtube and as I've found ideas about completely unrelated things, I've seen techniques that made me go "ugh, that would have saved me 200 paddle making hours in college." Though I haven't yet watched the follow up video so maybe there is a specific purpose for the smaller cards for the seam and probably shouldn't give comment until I watch it, which I'm doing.......... NOW
@@erikasmyser1074 THANKS for the input and sharing. I tried a couple techniques, and you are right that this can be time consuming for some of the statues that require a lot of seams. I have used cardboard and some other rigid items from around the house, but so far, the playing cards are my preferred method because of the perfect rigidness for a manageable size that I am tracing. I periodically watch other videos, but I am sure there are some other good ideas out there. Part of the key is having a tight seam line so that the finished statue does not reveal where the seam was at. Anyway, if you find a great way to do it that is faster, please share. It is fun to learn and make these things!
@@backyardadventureswithandy Okay so I just did a search and it appears that playing cards are made from 300 gsm silk card stock. You can get this in in regular 8.5x11 sheets for $15/250 which could be traced and cut and then the rest of that sheet reused for the next project. I found it here www.thepapermillstore.com/card-stock/finishes/silk-card-stock Also wondering if rubbing cardstock of the desired thickness with the side of a crayon or candle would produce similar results for you, as long as that process isn't similarly time consuming. I was reading other comments and see that this is a hobby so you aren't purchasing a massive amount of cards so time is probably the main thing you'd be looking to cut down, not price. I made my way to your videos because I'm making breeze blocks over the winter to use around our house next spring and am trying to decide if 3D printing a mold or 3D printing the custom designed block and then using that to create the mold would be a better option for my project as well as other pieces that match the blocks. I'm actually terribly allergic to latex so I don't think this particular molding technique will work for me but the fiberglass casing is an interesting consideration that I may or may not need and really appreciate that you've taken your time to teach the world how you do it. I've liked and subscribed and have already been browsing through your other projects and getting a little too ambitious with all the ideas you've given me! Thank you!
Hello Andy. I live about 10 miles directly North of Carnforth. Near the Beautiful town of Kendal. Thanks again.. I am retired due to health problems. As I get No income at all from Government, I could really do with this working. It would help my mental Health enormously being occupied.
I hope you can find a way through these challenging times. The statues could be part of the solution, but in my city in the US, I would have a hard time having this be very reliable. It is a nice side thing to earn some money and I enjoy it, but for me, it comes in spurts throughout the year.
I got started because of this video about six months ago. Thank you so much for your inspiration and information!! I have yet to be able to find TAP in stock. I used Holden's latex with pretty good success. I switched then to a latex that seriously failed me. I got ONE run out of the molds before the mold split. I wonder if you have a second choice of latex?? I don't want to make the same mistake again. 😞 Thanks again for putting these videos together, they are AWESOME!!
Wow, thanks for the kind words and encouragement! I also have seen TAP out of stock for a long time, but so far, it doesn't sound like it's never coming back...weird! I looked at the Holden online, but chose the Toxix Casting Latex most recently for some unknown reason. It was thin, but so far, my molds have been perfect. If I did it again, I would have added an extra 5-6 coats, just to be safe. How many coats total did you use for the product you got?
@@backyardadventureswithandy oh my. Toxic is exactly what I had used (that split). I used it for a gnome mold, 20 coats. It split near (but not at) the tip of his hat. I called the customer support line and was promptly told that it isn’t intended for use with concrete…?? Worth mentioning though: I created a duck mold alongside that gnome (also a glove mold) and I’ve scored 5 runs with it and no issues. It may have been user error with this newbie! In the meantime, I ordered more of Holden’s.
curious... Can liquid latex be applied directly to an unpainted concrete surface for making the mold? I know concrete is porous, will it affect the silicone if it doesnt have a paint layer on it?
I've done it when I was duplicating a statue, so I know it can be done. I can't remember a problem, but I feel like it came off without a noticeable problem. I do see how it comes off a smooth surface like shiny porcelain quite easily, so probably there was some difference. There's my thoughts!
It depends on the porous nature of it. but the latex rubber peels off most things. For the initial mold, I would not put a spray or release agent. However, once the mold is finished and being used for concrete, then I would use a latex-rubber friendly release agent for the mold.
I keep having my tape stick to my latex when using the cards and tape. Both blue painter and masking have stuck and ruined the latex. What am I doing wrong
I am sorry to hear that and I would be so frustrated if that happened to me. I am not sure why that is happening, as I have done this over and over again with the TAP Plastics latex, and never had a problem. I assume the latex was dry, so I wonder if the tape was not painters tape? Perhaps try with a different brand of tape?
Do you happen to have a recipe for making small statues with delicate parts, like a bird's tail. I made a mold and used high strength concrete, but the tail keeps breaking. Should I maybe use Portland cement and fine sand? Not sure what to use. Help! Thank you.
I can't say for sure, but I think the nature of concrete is that it is quite fragile when thin and new. I have a couple parts of statues that are prone to break, and I have to be some careful (as well as leave the statue to cure/dry for a few extra days. Even so, those statues (like an ear of a squirrel) tend to break 1/2 of the time. This is where mold design and seams come into play, unfortunately. Also, a BIG TIP, put metal wire in as a reinforcement. This helps with fragile pieces.
How should I store my rubber molds that do not have a mother mold? Can I coat them with, say, corn starch to prevent them from sticking to each other or to themselves? Also, I will share something with you that I think just might work exceptionally well. I have not tried it yet, but soon I will. My idea is to make Mother Molds out of paper towels and thin concrete. Much like I have seen people do with those fabric dipped concrete vases. Only I would think that paper towels set into place then painted or smeared with thin concrete might work very well? I have tried fiberglass but do not like its outcome. The only problem I can see with this possible new method would be an inability to cut it to shape after it is set. This would require making it right the first time! Maybe you would like to try it as well? Thanks for your help. @@backyardadventureswithandy
Oh! One more thing! I was thinking maybe about trying to apply "rubber cement" to my seams. I was thinking that maybe it would seal well without becoming a permanent part of my rubber mold and hold the two sides tight while the concrete is curing. The hope is that it will pull off easily after my object is cured for two days. What do you think? Do you suppose this might work? Thanks again. Just trying to set up a retirement hussle, as they call it, with concrete statuary.@@backyardadventureswithandy
I wish you sold your turtle mold.We've raised a desert tortoise for 25 years!We named her Peanut because she was the smallest of the babies.She's still going strong..
Before I make the latex mold, I make sure the surface is clean from lose materials, and then I fix any issues that could appear, such as defects, bubbles, chips, etc. I might fill something in with molding clay. If the surface is quite porous, I might spray it with a sealer, but that is quite rare as latex peels off most things pretty easily.
Hi, great video series! I have just bought some latex liquid rubber and done my first layer. It seems more runny than your latex, do I need to add the latex thickener?
Great video. totally enjoyed this video and leanrt something new and by chance we share the same name. what are the chanchers of that? Hi From Northworthy!
Thanks for watching, and someone years ago had a delinquent Blockbuster Video Rental account with my name. I guess it doesn't matter, because they went bankrupt. Ha! Anyway, hello from the Northwest!
Each time has been a little bit different, but most of the time I do a few, meaning 3 to 5, And then start doing a little bit of the is polyfield fiber. I have learned that when possible, avoid using too much as it does make it less flexible when the finished mold is done. Also, the fiber fill may need a little extra drying time between coats.
Hi thanks for all the tips. I am having a problem with some of my molds. I am getting air bubbles or blisters under the latex, the first one happened along the 3" length of a laying baby deers leg along the bottom edge of the mold (it has a flange) after about 10 layers. The other was a 2" deep wall plaque 16" diameter. I did the first coat this morning and this afternoon I have air under the latex again. 4 or 5 spots along the perimeter 1/2" to 1 1/2" long and about 3/4" high there is also 2 spots on the body in deep crevasses . One original is glazed ceramic and the other is concrete with hi gloss water base sealer. I am thinking they are to smooth for adequate adhesion. Any help would greatly appreciated. Thank you
I am not sure exactly, but I have had this on ceramic too, and the actual statue turned out fine in the end. It was like it did not stick to the ceramic, but the area was not a massive bulge. The point is to have the latex thick enough and in generally the right shape. The mother mold (fiberglass) is what really holds the final shape.
Did you use a mold release ? I am having the same issue with one of mine and think my problem is from over doing the mold release. Wasnt sure if I had to scrap it and start over, withput release.
@@backyardadventureswithandy I've heard of some one else having that problem and he said he believed air was getting trapped inside his latex moulds and it was making it lift in places so he said that since he has started to drill small holes maybe one or two on the plywood base he is using before making his mould he is helping air escape so he recons this has solved his problem. Also I don't use a release agent for making a latex mould. Some do. But latex is self releasing
Thanks. I do not sell molds because I can't make them for a price that is worthwhile to sell. It takes too many hours for what I think I could sell them for.
For the Love of God, can you tell me where I can get a concrete mold for a bald eagle?? I have spent weeks trying to find one only to get bombarded by scams wanting me to buy statues. Could you make one? I'm 68 4:02 and want to finish my memorial wall. Hard to explain what I want here but what you make looks gre
I have a mold that makes an eagle, and it might be what you are looking for. The beak breaks about 2/3 the time when I am demolding it, but I might be able to help you out. What area are you located?
I think there are people online that sometimes sells molds, but I do not. I do not do this enough to make it a business, so you will have to try other places. Enjoy!
I've typically made 3ish. It all depends on the size of the statue. If the statues are quite large, then 2, and if they are small, then several more...
Before putting anything on the cement, do you need to put a release on it like castor oil and rubbing alcohol mix. Or do i just put rubber on plain cement?
I assume you are talking about concrete that is fully dry and part of a statue you are wanting to duplicate. I have not put anything on dry concrete. That mold will pick up every detail, including chips, holes, worn spots, etc.
@@backyardadventureswithandy but what is on the raccoon in your video.there is something on it, there is a shine. Is it clear enamel? Prob need like a mould release caster oil..rubbing alcohol
@@david2881 oh yes, that has a glaze of some sort which made it come off easier. I've done others without it and it was OK, but something on there is better than nothing. Plastic and ceramic were really easy...
I have one question, ( you may have answered, but i missed it) It's the legality of if you want to sell these if you are taking someone elses design and turning it into a concrete statue? Surely there is some form of copyright involved? EDIT: oops guess that's two questions ;)
I have asked a few companies and researched a bit about this, but never with a lawyer. The response I have heard is that many of the statues sold at beach shops and stores have been duplicated for generations (50-70 years+), with general viewpoints being these are OK to copy. Some have said that there is not clarity on how much a statue has to change to be considered original. Ultimately, I always look for any markings from an artist or company and avoid duplicating things in question. I'm at peace with my conscious on this for my work, but I encourage people to be careful. A local statuary place makes their own designs, so I would never want to use their statues, but most statues or items I find at thrift stores show no signs of a copyright.
@@backyardadventureswithandy Thanks for your insight! Much appreciated. I guess it's like music, after so many years the music becomes public domain, but to copysomething 100% wihtout changing it could cause trouble. :)
Good question! I am not sure how it would have worked without the seam, as some of these statues are just too breakable without a seam. The squirrel is right on the edge of needing one, but my rule is "better safe than sorry," as I have had a few that have not worked out right time after time because of no seam. It is especially important on small parts of the statue that could face a lot of pressure.
These videos have been extremely helpful for me! I was hoping to get a bit of advice. I am making a life-sized Gila Monster sculpture that I hope to make a mold for and eventually make concrete copies of. However (I am not sure you are familiar with gila monsters) the lizard is covered in thousands of little bumps that I have incorporated into the sculpture. I am sure plaster would be able to get those small details but will I have any problems with Concrete?
Hi Elaine, A mold for a bowl would likely be a two-piece mold with the opening on the bottom. I've thought about a birdbath, and those are usually two separate molds, one for the pedestal and one for the base.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Great videos! I just want to say that it's been about a year since I started getting into statuary and I want to give you credit that your videos were by far the most helpful so thank you. Your explaining is very clear and I even ended buying the same type of rubber latex from TAP plastics that you ended up getting. I initially bought the mold building stuff but I didn't like how thin it was. I did my first 2 molds with that latex and my other 3 with what you have and I must say that it's a much better product (unfortunately its sold out with like a 26 week wait period atm).
After making 5 molds I do have some tips for people that I found made life easier or nice to know in general.
- First thing is; instead of using cards to do the seams it's much easier and less time consuming to use aluminum tape.
- Because this specific rubber latex is thicker than other liquid latex, I found only 8 layers is suffice instead of the typical 12-14 layers. Considering you're looking at over $100 per gallon for the rubber latex, doing less layers will make it so you can do 1-2 more molds. And as you pointed out in other comments, it's the mother mold that really holds the shape and 8 layers makes it thick enough not to rip when taking it off.
- Last thing you want to know is when casting statues back to back with this specific latex you might come across liquid bubbles popping up under the latex. I think this is specific to this type of liquid latex as it doesn't do it with my 'mold builder" latex molds. This will create little bubbles in your pieces that arent really noticeable but if you plan on selling the statues you might have some OCD about it. You can take a small needle and poke a hole and push the liquid out or suck it out with a syringe. Your other option is to keep it in a dry, warm spot (NOT OUTSIDE IN THE SUN) and just let it dry out; usually waiting a day between castings will make it so that this doesn't happen.
- Another alternative method besides the blue painters tape and wax is to just coat the latex mold with PVA (Poly Vinyl Alcohol), that creates a thin film layer around the latex and prevents the fiberglass from sticking to it. I find 2 layers is suffice going that method but if you're worried about it still sticking then you can do a couple extra layers. There is an upside of using the tape though and that is the fiberglass will come off easier; which lessens the chance of you breaking the piece you're making a mold out of. That comes in handy when you use hollow pieces to make a mold out of. You could even use the tape method and then put PVA on top of the tape so it doesnt stick/become part of the fiberglass mother mold. Just all up to preference.
Hope you don't mind me sharing some tips and info that I ran into the last year making these molds. I've watched 20-30 videos on how to make these and as I said this is the best I've come across. Not only do you give info on every step of the process but you show what materials you use; it truly is the best one stop shop for learning how to do this stuff. Great job again.
P.S. I'm totally jealous of your tortoise statue lol
Wow...helpful advice and this is also encouraging! I am getting ready to make a new mold (if I can get the latex rubber soon). I enjoyed making the videos and learned so much from others on UA-cam, too!
I am wanting to try the aluminum tape at some point, but have never had it around when I am motivated to work on molds. The PVA is heavily mentioned by mold makers, too, so I guess I need to try that! Good advice to consider.
That tortoise has been a popular statue, and my original mold is on its last days! Anyway, thanks again and blessing!
@@backyardadventureswithandy I will mention that the PVA makes the fiberglass come off much harder compared to your video with the tape. I actually just finished a mold yesterday of a 13 inch owl perched on at log from an old piggy bank and actually broke the head when prying the top of the fiberglass off, it didn’t take much. I might switch to the tape and pva method myself on pieces that I borrow from people and/don’t want to break. I think if it was solid it would of been fine but as you know it seems like the porcelain statues seem to have the best designs for concrete ones.
If you make a video of your new mold making process I’ll be sure to tune in :) I’ll subscribe now and keep an eye out on your new content! Good luck!!
How do those critters that have been HOT glued to the wood or other surface pop off when it is time to pull out the critter?
Wow, it's a lot of work! Interesting but quite an extensive process!
Thanks for watching, and yes, it's a fair amount of work at the front, but pretty rewarding and the results lasts so long, making statues year after year.
Pretend that we are neighbors and send me a turtle!! This was such a helpful video
Thanks! And, how about you also pretend we are neighbors and that a turtle just showed up in your garden from some mystery person!
@@backyardadventureswithandy😂 So nice of you to pretend gift that turtle to your pretend neighbor! 😂🤣😂👏👏👏❤️
@@christynm.8933 I hope you enjoy it...I pretended to drop it off!
@@backyardadventureswithandy
Is it possible to coat a plaster of Paris ceramic mold with this latex and be able to use for a concrete mold? I have hundreds of ceramic molds and wood like to be able to make concrete statues.
I’ve been trying to make a mold of my wife while she’s sleeping but the blue tape doesn’t stick to her very well. I’m on coat 3, hope she turns out well!
I suspect if you sprinkle corn starch and play some smooth jazz, you might have some better luck. I am having the same issue with my puppy!
@@backyardadventureswithandy 🤣
ljke it
GREAT VIDEO..THANKS SOOOO MUCH FOR SHARING THE INFO! ❤
You are welcome!
Thanks my Friend from across the Pond. I've always wanted to give this a go. Great Tutorial. Thanks and best wishes from North West England.
Thanks for watching. How close are you to Carnforth? I've got family there. Anyway, enjoy and good luck!
@@backyardadventureswithandy I live Near Kendal. Only about 10 miles from Carnforth. While I'm Here, do you ever use Latex Thickener. ? thanks.
👍🏻 great tutorial and explanation. I started to watch to learn how this was done and 15 minutes in realized this was more involved than I was willing to take on, but watched until the end out of interest. It made me realize why concrete yard ornaments can be pricey….a lot of work goes into them! 🤔☺️
Yes, it is quite a bit of work initially to make. Some can be done in simpler ways, but it has made appreciate what I see from garden stores a bit more. I think its a hard business to do well in for the statue makers.
Thank You for your informative videos !!! .
You are welcome!
This is what I needed!!!!! Thank you sir!!
Happy to help!
Well hello I was looking up videos on how to fix my turtle and your videos popped up and now I'm watching all of them thank you so much. Love watching videos❤❤❤❤
Again, thanks for watching. Let me know if you have questions.
This such an amazing tutorial. Thank you for sharing it all with all the important details. I came looking for how to make molds for tiny concrete statues. But I found this video, and now I’m ready to go big 😅 Again, thank you so much! ❤
Thanks for sharing and enjoy. It is a unique niche, and the results are fun!
Oh my word, I'm so happy I found you!!! Someone that I can learn from, thank you, thank you!!😅😅Thanks!!
Thanks for the ind words...it's a pretty fun hobby to try and everyone loves getting a statue for the yard!
Wow so much work and expertise!! I will leave mold making up to you because i don't have the patience lol.
It is a lot of work initially, but once you have a mold, you can make statues so easily. Thanks again for comments and watching!
Thank you for an excellently detailed demonstration and instruction plus invaluable tips for making latex moulds. I'm excited to begin!
You are welcome! I am planning a new one soon on concrete statue repairs. Enjoy the hobby!
Do you sale the mold or the figure stashes
Watching this was pleasantly relaxing... As for the chicken-rooster.... It DOES look like a rooster tail with a hen head... Cant wait to see how it turns out!
Thanks. Roosthen
Do you put anything on the ornament to stop the latex sticking to it 🤔
No, I just make sure it is clean. It will generally come off the statue. I have had it stick more to raw wood like plywood, but it came off that, too.
Thank you so much for this video it was super to the point and helpful. Thanks for including brands
You are welcome. Have you tried making statues or molds?
Great video. Can you tell me where to buy the liquid latex that you use?
I've always bought this from TAP Plastics, and it has been wonderful!
@@backyardadventureswithandy I looked at the website and they are all sold out!! I asked them when they would get some more and they said they didn’t know. I don’t have a store around me that sells it so I’ll have to wait. THANK YOU so much for your great videos and advice!!
Hi! If you want to make your own design for a statue, can you make it with clay and make a mold out of that?
Yes, when it is done, dry it and then donthe same process as in my videos. I've altered or fixed some statues with clay, and then cast them. Good luck!
Do u have any tutorial on how to create a statue?
I only have the half dozen statue videos on UA-cam, as of now...
That's really cool. I couldn't tell with the playing cards though, I could see that painters tape was used to hold them together but was the painters tape used to hold one side of the cards to the first coat of latex? I was wondering if the tape would cause any distortion in the shape of the item that might show up in the concrete cast?
Good question! The tape does not cause any noticeable difference or distortion. I've looked closely several times, and am quite pleased with the results.
Hi Andy I'm a recent fan from down by New Orleans . Your videos are great on average hw many cats of latex thank you.
I've done 12-16 coats on average. I have not made any for a year, and I suggest more like 16.
Why is my mold sticky in spots and can I use latex on a concrete statue to make a mold
Do you know if your mold has been exposed to sunlight at all, like in a window or outside?
Can any liquid latex rubber be used? I see some liquid latex rubber that is for roof repair. Will that work just as well? Please share where you get your liquid latex rubber. Thank you!
The materials I have used are mostly from TAP Plastics. I have used a few off of Amazon, and there are other brands, but I think a roofing latex would be different and not work.
@@backyardadventureswithandy Thank you
Do you need to coat the top of the wood that you are using as a base so that the latex will come off when you are ready? also Im assuming the critter somehow pops off even though you have hot glued around the edges??
I usually have not coated the wood with anything, but I have started to add a single layer of the blue tape to the wood if it is very porous, because the latex does stick more to the wood. Sometimes, I have a wood that has a coating on it, or even better, a cutting board that is plastic. If I were you, I would just put a bit of clue tape on the surface and it allows the latex to pop off easily,
I am stuck! I have a bear statue that I want to make a latex mold of. He does not have a flat bottom base though; he has 4 legs that are all in contact with the ground. Assuming that the bear will be upside down when pouring the concrete (I think that's best?) Is making a number of seams on the legs the way to go? If so I fail to see how the mold can be fully removed. I keep staring at this thing. I wanted to avoid a seam that runs along the top of the head down its back but I am thinking that's the only way to do this. Once concrete is set, stand the bear upright, pull the seam apart down over his head head and back then pull the latex down towards all four legs/feet (kind of at the same time) until it's removed. I would just hate to have the big seam where there is so much detail (the fur marks) all the way across his back and head. Filling the mold from all four of the legs seems odd (given the size of his feet) but I think it would work. The only other way - maybe - is turn him upside down and put a seam on the inside of each leg and then connect the back legs with an additional seam, connect the two front legs with an additional seam and the connect the two seams between each set of legs with another seam. So technically 3 seams: one full seam between the back legs, one full seam between the front legs and a middle seam that connects the two previous seams.
Really great tip with the fiberfill!
Thanks. Sometimes, I have added to much and it takes away from the flexibility on the mold.
Hi, great info. However, I am allergic to epoxy resin. Would it be possible to put the latex mold in a bucket and fill around with something else, like sand to keep the shape.. hmm the sand would probably collapse the mold?.. I can imagine the problems that might present, but do you have any suggestions?
Yes, you can do the sand method. That works well and supports the mold. I actually used to do this for some of my small molds. Try it!
Hello from Australia, that's a rooster, great video thankyou
You are welcome and I'm glad they were enjoyable for you!
1000-th like is from Serbia. Great video.
Thanks...I missed this comment!
Thank you! This is one of the best mold making tutorial that I've watched! Very informative and the step by step has been excellent. Have you ever used this technique with silicone?
Thanks and I am glad you enjoyed it. I have not used silicone, and part of my "problem" is that this is mostly a hobby thing, so I make 1-3 new statue molds per year, so not enough to experiment a lot.
Silicone will do the trick but it's a lot more expensive than latex
What did you mean about the exacto knife cutting the seam around the cards ???
Let em see if I can explain this... The first coat of latex is over the entire statue. This means that any seams that are added will have that first layer NOT part of the seam, so for the seam to come apart, it must be cut open. It is an ultra-thin layer of latex, so using the knife works well to create the seam.
Thanks for the lesson. A question: You didn't mention how you get the playing card flange placed onto the form or attached to it? I understand making the seam. I just don't get what you are doing to have it stay in place before adding more rubber?
Good question, and I am not sure if there is a better way to do this, but it works for me. What I do is basically tape the cards onto the statue. At first, the playing cards are a bit more fragile in their position, but as the flange gets made and more and more tape is added, the form strengthens. Sometimes, I have to be careful until I get the first coat of latex on there, as I don't want the positioning of the flange to shift. Once the latex dries on that first coat, it essentially glues everything in place.
@@backyardadventureswithandy thanks!
I have been making molds for about 6 months, your video is super. I have found it is easier to cover your Latex, with tin foil, then with tape ( before you fiberglass). it just me cheaper and easier clean up. you have to Clamp after you are done fiber glassing, Before you drill your Bolt holes.
Thanks for the tip and I might try this next time and see if it eliminates the petroleum jelly that I lightly put on it. do you have any challenges with the fiberglass catching on the foil?
Proud henster.
Helpful video, thanks so much. Want to replicate some garden planter urns. I'm watching videos about various techniques and products for creating ornate molds in hopes I won't waste lots of $ & time in fails.
It is enjoyable to watch these videos. Increases anticipation & excitement, too!
Thanks!
Thanks, and statues (or other garden art) really is fun to see and to give away as gifts...no one else seems to do it and it becomes a special thing.
Thanks so much for sharing the content. Very helpful! Question....I would like to make a mold from a tall “smooth” column. Ultimately, where I will have 8’ tall outdoor concrete columns. I want to have a mold out of fiberglass...and gel coat. I don’t think I will need latex mold inside...since there is hardly and details to it. So if I brush on gel coat before putting fiberglass...when would I need to start the separation flange all the way around it....because ultimately the gel coat will be part of the fiberglass mold at the end....unlike the latex mold and fiberglass mother mold. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
I think you are heading in the right direction, as the latex mold is really for detailed pieces. I have not used the gel coat or done what you are talking about, but the concept of what you describe seems to make sense. Just be sure that you can demold the piece without concrete being stuck to the mold.
For years I have wanted to make an 18" concrete, plain goose that can be dressed in sewn cloths as a male or female. I would like to try make a mold for a resin garden art rooster.
I think a goose like what you describe would be a great idea for different seasons of the year
Hi Mr.Wright, it’s sejal. What you make is really cool and I look forward to trying it out. Mia is very cute and I’ve watched many of your videos. How many days does it take to make one of those and what paint do you use for the rooster. See you tomorrow
Making a statue with a mold is actually pretty fast, if you have the mold. The hardest and longest part is making the mold, which can take several weeks or a month. But, once the mold is made, the statue takes about 15 minutes to prepare, 2 days to dry, and another 15 minutes after the concrete has dried to remove it from the mold. And, for the paint, I use am inexpensive exterior latex paint mixed with extra water, along with a little bit of white paint.
Before I tackle a larger project (I have big ambitions!) I opted to make sure I could pull it off by replicating a small random garden decor I've had for decades. I go over to the barn and give it one coat a day (missed a couple due to the unbearable heat) and I'm finally to the point where I started to wonder about the nooks and crannies. Having inherited bags of fiberfil I'll start working it into those gaps as I complete the last layerings. I'm not sure something this small (approx 10"×8") requires a mother mold, so I'm wondering if it's possible to put the mold in a pan and use sand to surround in and support the form while I pour the concrete?
Hello, and yes, sand works just fine as a support. I have one statue that is like 3 inches tall, and I just put it in a coffee cup upside down, and that is enough support. The fiberglass part is my least favorite part, but it also is pretty satisfying to complete. What are you hoping to copy? I am finishing a replacement of my tortoise mold, and also shopping around for my next statue.
@backyardadventureswithandy my mom was a collector....her particular fondness was anything owls. She passed in 2013 and we are just now figuring out what to do with it all. Many many years ago my aunt, her sister, gave my mom 3 large lamps with owls as the base about a foot and a half tall and about as wide. I opted to take them and try to turn them into molds for statuary. I've done mother molds before, and I wholeheartedly agree it's a nasty, sticky, smelly job🫢🥴
Very good video. Very knowledgeable in the trade
Thanks, I know enough to be dangerous!!
Excellent 👌
Thanks for watching
So you add the seam after the first thin layer of latex?
Yes, that first coat helps get a tight seam for the statue. Once the mold is done and ready to come a part, then take a razor and cut that thin layer.
Very nicely explained how to do a latex mold, thank you for taking the time to teach us! Maybe I have missed it or it is not necessary, but may I ask what you use to seal your model to make sure the Latex comes off?? Is this even necessary when the model is painted and sealed with Varathane or in my case Concrete Sealer ? Any response is greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot!
I have found that the latex comes off most things without a problem. I once had more porous wood that it was on, and it did come off, but required some extra pull and care. As for the model item you are casting, I have never sealed an item before casting. If an item was quite porous, I might consider sealing it to make the casting easier.
@@backyardadventureswithandy Thank you very much for this quick response, very much appreciated!!
Can you use this process on other materials beside concrete? Plastic for example.
Yes, most anything that is hard or firm. I've done it on porcelain, plastic, wood, hardened clay, and maybe over other things.
@@backyardadventureswithandy just trying my first latex mould, any tips for a beginner mate? do you use latex thickener as a tub doesn't seem to go very far.
Second time watching this video trying to see if you had said how you clean your brush in between coats or do you use a new brush every time
The best way to do it is to go to a place like Harbor Freight or Amazon, and buy the super cheap chip brushes so you can throw them away each time.
@@backyardadventureswithandy thank you very much for your reply I really enjoy your videos
Great video.. how much latex rubber did you use out of that bucket for the3molds you made in this series, I’m guessing it was a gallon bucket. Kinda wanted to know how far the gallon would go. Or if a quart would do. Thanks.
I used the full one-gallon bucket. It was enough, but barely!
@@backyardadventureswithandy
I have a few questions if you dont mind..
How would you go about making a mother mold for a rubber mold , I have a rubber mold and that's it .
Would I stuff it with rags or something ? Then tape it off and proceed with the resin?
Also tape doesn't seem to wanna stick to the rubber mold..
Not sure if I should make a 2 piece mother mold for this small iguana mold , that's the mold I have .
Any help would be awesome thank you..
@@scottjgillisherestuff it with bubble wrap and use plaster of Paris (modrock) bandages to make a 2 part mould
Is it possible to use a clay statue instead of the plastic, or porcelain to put the latex onto? I am trying to make my own original garden statues.
Yes, I altered a couple figurines I found with clay, and the finished product turned out great. I did let the clay dry a bit, which I think was needed.
Do you use any release agent for your concrete statues?
I do a spray bottle with 1:10 parts castor oil and denatured alcohol. After spraying and letting it sit for 15 minutes or more, I put in the concrete.
@@backyardadventureswithandy when you make a mold using concrete statue do you put any release agent on the concrete? Or it's just the paint?
Did you use only the one gallon to make all 3 items or did u have sum left
One gallon for all three. It was tight, but worked out perfectly.
I found this to be very informative. I have to try to make a gargoyle from an existing one. One of my two got stolen and the company that made them is no longer in business. Why type of concrete do you use?
I just use the ordinary concrete bags that are sold on pallets at Home Depot and Lowes...general, all purpose. Fancier stuff works, too.
I must not have seen it but before the latex as there some coating applied? Wont the latex stick to the object??
Mark, if I understand you correctly, the latex will peel off the original mold fairly easily. For example, the porcelain chicken, plastic squirrel, and concrete racoon all worked out great, including the plywood bases. Part of what is great about the latex is that it takes on the amazing details of the mold, including wood grain patters, little divots, scratches, or holes, etc. Test your latex first by painting a bit on and seeing how it comes off when dry.
Wow this is great! Could you make a mold for an interlocking concrete block? I was going to experiment with a retaining wall design.
Yes, anything can be made. I have thought of a similar type thing for walking stones, but the reality is that a hard mold is probably way more efficient and sufficient than a latex mold. If there is a lot of detail desired, then a latex mold is beneficial.
@backyardadventureswithandy this is what I had in mind ua-cam.com/video/EuOIEe_q2J0/v-deo.html&feature=share7
Tried contacting the company but no response. I was thinking a base plate with a cylinder to make the hole, but needed a mold to make the "teeth".
What about silicon in a tube from the hardware shop? Cheers Graham
I think this could work for simple things, but I am not sure how the strength and flexibility of the mold would last compared to the process of the many coats of thin latex.
Hello, Do you sell the racoon mold by any chance? I cannot find a statue like it. Thank you
I don't sell my molds because the cost and time to make one makes them more expensive than most people realize. This is a hobby more than a business for me.
could you just take a latex mask of frankenstein and make the fiberglass mold then fill with concrete?
Sort of...the fiberglass will not carry the extreme details that the latex mold will capture. Latex makes all the details just perfect!
Great instructions on tips and tricks 👏🏻 thank you
You are so welcome!
I’ve been trying to buy the latex you use for weeks and it’s sold out. I’m reading there is some shortage of one of the ingredients. Do you have an alternative you’d recommend?
I need to buy some too, so I may be in a jam. I tried a product off Amazon long ago, but I was not satisfied. Once I found TAP, I stopped looking.
I'm wondering if I can use the rubber latex to repair a seahorse birdbath?
The latex can be used for any mold you want, and it carries the details in a nice way. I've thought about duplicating a nice bird batch, but have not done so yet!
I tried the hot glue but the ornament was stuck to the wood permanently so I used white silicone sealer instead and it's great I leave it for a few hours before making my mould and it's easyer to pop of when I want to put another ornament in its place.another thing I do mix up a little plaster or use poly filler and fill in the gap around the ornaments base to stop latex seaping under when you make your mould
Again, thanks for the tip. I remember a couple hot glue items that required a screw driver or something to pry a part, but the silicone seems like an idea to try. Good luck in statue stuff!
@@backyardadventureswithandy thank you I'm not new to statues I go back to 1979 when I was 19. I was out most of the time with mates and girls so normal life. But I was an allrounder making plaster. Resin. Concrete. Anything new to cast I wanted to know what it was. I also tried as many mould making techniques as I could. And then I wanted to do different techniques on painting finishing the casts of. Then I was a moderator on a sculpting casting forum. The moderator has never left me as when I see some one doing something I feel I want to help. But there have been a couple of times I've been told to mind my own business go and do it your way and I'll do mine. 😂 But I can't help myself.
Great videos, I have a question, how many layers of latex do you paint on a mold before your finished? Thanks
I'll usually go 12-18 coats. I would lean towards more if you latex is runny or thin.
Hey, I want to make a mould of a hollow pot for planting , have any tips for that? Or should I follow the same steps
The concepts are the same, however the spot where the pot or opening will go can be a "plug," which basically fills the space you will want for the dirt.
Have you ever had latex delaminate from a smooth surface? I often find it will vome away from plastic etc and ruin the mould
I've had small parts where it starts to pull away, but I just continued to "paint over it" as it was mostly in the same spot. The molds turned out great. However, I have heard that this can be a problem in some cases.
YESSS MY FAVORITE VIDEO
Thanks. This took a while! Another one coming soon...
i don’t have indoor space that can handle the smell, can make the latex mold outside ?
Outside is great for this, as long as it is shade. NO SUNLIGHT is critical on latex rubber.
@@backyardadventureswithandy Thank you for the reply, I am working on the same tortoise if you don’t mind where did you set up the seams ?
@@sturfam From the bottom of the mouth down the neck, I followed an area that made it look like part of the neck-ripples. The seam went through the "chest" area. I am preparing to remake it as I finally wore out my first one, and one thing I have done is thicken the area by the front right leg, as it was the most fragile part of the statue...or the part that breaks the easiest.
Also, I cleaned up the old air bubbles on the shell.
Thanks for this helpful video. I didn't catch how you make your card seam stay in place on the rooster or racoon . Are you just taping to the first layer of rubber? and do you need to cut the tape off at some point? Would super appreciate any further explanation of that part of process. Thanks! ( I've been working on a gargoyle mold with wings--and attempting a seam technique very similar to your chicken. Had a terrible time trying to keep the cards in place by lightly pinning--but they just kept slipping when I started brushing on next rubber layer. )
It is a little challenging to see in the video, but I take the cards and get them shaped pretty much where I want them, and then take tape and start getting them to hold in place with the tape. Once you have a couple in place and and if you're careful, then they tend to stay in place because of the shape.
@@backyardadventureswithandy Thanks so much for that fast reply! It looks like you were much more accurate with the contours than I was--I will try to do the same next time : )
@@backyardadventureswithandy when I saw this part i thought that there has to be a faster and less expensive way than using a deck of cards and tracing and cutting 3.5 inches at a time. I'm wondering if a wax paper or even wax paper glue-sticked (yes that should be a verb) to both sides of card stock and then tracing would be a faster , more accurate, and less expensive way of doing this. IDK if this is a hobby or income for you but if I were doing this as a business or side gig and making a lot of casts, then I would definitely look into other materials that could be traced and placed in 1 step instead of 3.5" x 2.5" cards. Maybe a deck of cards is cheap but I can guess how time consuming this could become. I'm an (armature) artist/crafter and used to make a million things for my sorority sisters and other various groups in college and would spend half of that time measuring, cutting, and placing painters tape "just right" so I could get the results I wanted. 15-20 years later, now there's pintrest and tiktok and ofc youtube and as I've found ideas about completely unrelated things, I've seen techniques that made me go "ugh, that would have saved me 200 paddle making hours in college."
Though I haven't yet watched the follow up video so maybe there is a specific purpose for the smaller cards for the seam and probably shouldn't give comment until I watch it, which I'm doing.......... NOW
@@erikasmyser1074 THANKS for the input and sharing. I tried a couple techniques, and you are right that this can be time consuming for some of the statues that require a lot of seams. I have used cardboard and some other rigid items from around the house, but so far, the playing cards are my preferred method because of the perfect rigidness for a manageable size that I am tracing. I periodically watch other videos, but I am sure there are some other good ideas out there. Part of the key is having a tight seam line so that the finished statue does not reveal where the seam was at. Anyway, if you find a great way to do it that is faster, please share. It is fun to learn and make these things!
@@backyardadventureswithandy Okay so I just did a search and it appears that playing cards are made from 300 gsm silk card stock. You can get this in in regular 8.5x11 sheets for $15/250 which could be traced and cut and then the rest of that sheet reused for the next project. I found it here www.thepapermillstore.com/card-stock/finishes/silk-card-stock
Also wondering if rubbing cardstock of the desired thickness with the side of a crayon or candle would produce similar results for you, as long as that process isn't similarly time consuming. I was reading other comments and see that this is a hobby so you aren't purchasing a massive amount of cards so time is probably the main thing you'd be looking to cut down, not price.
I made my way to your videos because I'm making breeze blocks over the winter to use around our house next spring and am trying to decide if 3D printing a mold or 3D printing the custom designed block and then using that to create the mold would be a better option for my project as well as other pieces that match the blocks. I'm actually terribly allergic to latex so I don't think this particular molding technique will work for me but the fiberglass casing is an interesting consideration that I may or may not need and really appreciate that you've taken your time to teach the world how you do it.
I've liked and subscribed and have already been browsing through your other projects and getting a little too ambitious with all the ideas you've given me!
Thank you!
Hello Andy. I live about 10 miles directly North of Carnforth. Near the Beautiful town of Kendal. Thanks again.. I am retired due to health problems. As I get No income at all from Government, I could really do with this working. It would help my mental Health enormously being occupied.
I hope you can find a way through these challenging times. The statues could be part of the solution, but in my city in the US, I would have a hard time having this be very reliable. It is a nice side thing to earn some money and I enjoy it, but for me, it comes in spurts throughout the year.
Thank You
You're welcome
I got started because of this video about six months ago. Thank you so much for your inspiration and information!! I have yet to be able to find TAP in stock. I used Holden's latex with pretty good success. I switched then to a latex that seriously failed me. I got ONE run out of the molds before the mold split. I wonder if you have a second choice of latex?? I don't want to make the same mistake again. 😞 Thanks again for putting these videos together, they are AWESOME!!
Wow, thanks for the kind words and encouragement! I also have seen TAP out of stock for a long time, but so far, it doesn't sound like it's never coming back...weird! I looked at the Holden online, but chose the Toxix Casting Latex most recently for some unknown reason. It was thin, but so far, my molds have been perfect. If I did it again, I would have added an extra 5-6 coats, just to be safe. How many coats total did you use for the product you got?
@@backyardadventureswithandy oh my. Toxic is exactly what I had used (that split). I used it for a gnome mold, 20 coats. It split near (but not at) the tip of his hat. I called the customer support line and was promptly told that it isn’t intended for use with concrete…??
Worth mentioning though: I created a duck mold alongside that gnome (also a glove mold) and I’ve scored 5 runs with it and no issues. It may have been user error with this newbie! In the meantime, I ordered more of Holden’s.
thx for the awesome vid man!
You are welcome!
curious... Can liquid latex be applied directly to an unpainted concrete surface for making the mold? I know concrete is porous, will it affect the silicone if it doesnt have a paint layer on it?
I've done it when I was duplicating a statue, so I know it can be done. I can't remember a problem, but I feel like it came off without a noticeable problem. I do see how it comes off a smooth surface like shiny porcelain quite easily, so probably there was some difference. There's my thoughts!
so the original item doesn't need any release agent?
It depends on the porous nature of it. but the latex rubber peels off most things. For the initial mold, I would not put a spray or release agent. However, once the mold is finished and being used for concrete, then I would use a latex-rubber friendly release agent for the mold.
I keep having my tape stick to my latex when using the cards and tape. Both blue painter and masking have stuck and ruined the latex. What am I doing wrong
I am sorry to hear that and I would be so frustrated if that happened to me. I am not sure why that is happening, as I have done this over and over again with the TAP Plastics latex, and never had a problem. I assume the latex was dry, so I wonder if the tape was not painters tape? Perhaps try with a different brand of tape?
Do you happen to have a recipe for making small statues with delicate parts, like a bird's tail. I made a mold and used high strength concrete, but the tail keeps breaking. Should I maybe use Portland cement and fine sand? Not sure what to use. Help! Thank you.
I can't say for sure, but I think the nature of concrete is that it is quite fragile when thin and new. I have a couple parts of statues that are prone to break, and I have to be some careful (as well as leave the statue to cure/dry for a few extra days. Even so, those statues (like an ear of a squirrel) tend to break 1/2 of the time. This is where mold design and seams come into play, unfortunately. Also, a BIG TIP, put metal wire in as a reinforcement. This helps with fragile pieces.
@@backyardadventureswithandy Thank you for your assistance.
How should I store my rubber molds that do not have a mother mold? Can I coat them with, say, corn starch to prevent them from sticking to each other or to themselves? Also, I will share something with you that I think just might work exceptionally well. I have not tried it yet, but soon I will. My idea is to make Mother Molds out of paper towels and thin concrete. Much like I have seen people do with those fabric dipped concrete vases. Only I would think that paper towels set into place then painted or smeared with thin concrete might work very well? I have tried fiberglass but do not like its outcome. The only problem I can see with this possible new method would be an inability to cut it to shape after it is set. This would require making it right the first time! Maybe you would like to try it as well? Thanks for your help. @@backyardadventureswithandy
Oh! One more thing! I was thinking maybe about trying to apply "rubber cement" to my seams. I was thinking that maybe it would seal well without becoming a permanent part of my rubber mold and hold the two sides tight while the concrete is curing. The hope is that it will pull off easily after my object is cured for two days. What do you think? Do you suppose this might work? Thanks again. Just trying to set up a retirement hussle, as they call it, with concrete statuary.@@backyardadventureswithandy
Do you sell these somewhere online and do you sell custom molds/mother molds? Like if mailed a resin bear standing 24inches
Thanks for asking, but I have not gotten into the statue making business of molds, just selling statues here and there to support my hobby.
@@backyardadventureswithandy Respect, love the tutorials and do you sell your finished products online?
I wish you sold your turtle mold.We've raised a desert tortoise for 25 years!We named her Peanut because she was the smallest of the babies.She's still going strong..
It is a special one! I actually am on the last days of it because it is starting to wear out. Thanks again for watching!
Use a profile gage to help you get closer
Yes, something with that could work well. So, you get the shape with the gage and then trace it on something like a card? Make a lot of sense!
@@backyardadventureswithandy yea mate that's what I do but I use card board boxes instead of playing card that I know a lot of people use
Wondering what you do to
prep the piece your making the mold for first ?
Before I make the latex mold, I make sure the surface is clean from lose materials, and then I fix any issues that could appear, such as defects, bubbles, chips, etc. I might fill something in with molding clay. If the surface is quite porous, I might spray it with a sealer, but that is quite rare as latex peels off most things pretty easily.
Does this method work with bare concrete?
YES! it has worked on everything, it seems. the smoother or less porous surfaces come off easier, but it works.
Hi, great video series! I have just bought some latex liquid rubber and done my first layer. It seems more runny than your latex, do I need to add the latex thickener?
No, let it dry for each coat an s you should be fine. Thin coats are best
Great video. totally enjoyed this video and leanrt something new and by chance we share the same name. what are the chanchers of that? Hi From Northworthy!
Thanks for watching, and someone years ago had a delinquent Blockbuster Video Rental account with my name. I guess it doesn't matter, because they went bankrupt. Ha! Anyway, hello from the Northwest!
Hi love your videos do u sell them thanks
I sell a few that I have locally, but I do not ship them.
@@backyardadventureswithandy ok thank u
Do you need to coat your Hen or model your molding prior to applying the latex rubber for easy removing later ??? Just curious , Thanks so much !!
I do not coat it, as the latex peels off most things pretty easily.
Love the viedo very informative 👌
Glad you liked it!
Do I need a seam for border tree branch 5” wide and 6 “ high?
Study it to see if it would "catch" when concrete is in there. I can't say for sure.
Could I use clay to make the original item?
Yes, I did this with some statue modifications, and then let the material dry out before making the mold.
Hello! Struggling a little bit here. At what layer did you start on the polyfill stuff for the undercuts? Please and thanks
Each time has been a little bit different, but most of the time I do a few, meaning 3 to 5, And then start doing a little bit of the is polyfield fiber. I have learned that when possible, avoid using too much as it does make it less flexible when the finished mold is done. Also, the fiber fill may need a little extra drying time between coats.
Hi thanks for all the tips. I am having a problem with some of my molds. I am getting air bubbles or blisters under the latex, the first one happened along the 3" length of a laying baby deers leg along the bottom edge of the mold (it has a flange) after about 10 layers. The other was a 2" deep wall plaque 16" diameter. I did the first coat this morning and this afternoon I have air under the latex again. 4 or 5 spots along the perimeter 1/2" to 1 1/2" long and about 3/4" high there is also 2 spots on the body in deep crevasses . One original is glazed ceramic and the other is concrete with hi gloss water base sealer. I am thinking they are to smooth for adequate adhesion. Any help would greatly appreciated. Thank you
I am not sure exactly, but I have had this on ceramic too, and the actual statue turned out fine in the end. It was like it did not stick to the ceramic, but the area was not a massive bulge. The point is to have the latex thick enough and in generally the right shape. The mother mold (fiberglass) is what really holds the final shape.
Did you use a mold release ?
I am having the same issue with one of mine and think my problem is from over doing the mold release.
Wasnt sure if I had to scrap it and start over, withput release.
@@backyardadventureswithandy I've heard of some one else having that problem and he said he believed air was getting trapped inside his latex moulds and it was making it lift in places so he said that since he has started to drill small holes maybe one or two on the plywood base he is using before making his mould he is helping air escape so he recons this has solved his problem. Also I don't use a release agent for making a latex mould. Some do. But latex is self releasing
I have a 14 inch high horse statue I will like to make. What will you do for a 4 legged statue? How will you create a mold? How would I poor it in?
I have a deer like that, but it seems really challenging to make and have it withstand the tests of time. Some people make separate legs to attach.
@@backyardadventureswithandy these would likely need an armature of some kind do you think?
Do you have a formula for figuring out how much concrete to make?
I just estimate and make it in a bucket. I'm not doing big production stuff.
Hello compliments of y job and how can I buy the molds please thanks
Thanks. I do not sell molds because I can't make them for a price that is worthwhile to sell. It takes too many hours for what I think I could sell them for.
my statue is made of styrofoam. Can I use this process to make a mold for that?
Yes, that also should work!
Super helpful
Thanks, and good luck if you try this. It's been pretty fun to see how these turn out!
For the Love of God, can you tell me where I can get a concrete mold for a bald eagle?? I have spent weeks trying to find one only to get bombarded by scams wanting me to buy statues. Could you make one? I'm 68 4:02 and want to finish my memorial wall. Hard to explain what I want here but what you make looks gre
I have a mold that makes an eagle, and it might be what you are looking for. The beak breaks about 2/3 the time when I am demolding it, but I might be able to help you out. What area are you located?
Hello compliments beautiful job, how can I buy those molds?
I think there are people online that sometimes sells molds, but I do not. I do not do this enough to make it a business, so you will have to try other places. Enjoy!
how many molds are you able to make with that size bucket of latex??
I've typically made 3ish. It all depends on the size of the statue. If the statues are quite large, then 2, and if they are small, then several more...
@@backyardadventureswithandy Thanks! I'm about to start on my 1st 2 molds.... Fingers crossed!
Before putting anything on the cement, do you need to put a release on it like castor oil and rubbing alcohol mix. Or do i just put rubber on plain cement?
I assume you are talking about concrete that is fully dry and part of a statue you are wanting to duplicate. I have not put anything on dry concrete. That mold will pick up every detail, including chips, holes, worn spots, etc.
@@backyardadventureswithandy but what is on the raccoon in your video.there is something on it, there is a shine. Is it clear enamel? Prob need like a mould release caster oil..rubbing alcohol
@@david2881 oh yes, that has a glaze of some sort which made it come off easier. I've done others without it and it was OK, but something on there is better than nothing. Plastic and ceramic were really easy...
I have one question, ( you may have answered, but i missed it) It's the legality of if you want to sell these if you are taking someone elses design and turning it into a concrete statue? Surely there is some form of copyright involved?
EDIT: oops guess that's two questions ;)
I have asked a few companies and researched a bit about this, but never with a lawyer. The response I have heard is that many of the statues sold at beach shops and stores have been duplicated for generations (50-70 years+), with general viewpoints being these are OK to copy. Some have said that there is not clarity on how much a statue has to change to be considered original. Ultimately, I always look for any markings from an artist or company and avoid duplicating things in question. I'm at peace with my conscious on this for my work, but I encourage people to be careful. A local statuary place makes their own designs, so I would never want to use their statues, but most statues or items I find at thrift stores show no signs of a copyright.
@@backyardadventureswithandy Thanks for your insight! Much appreciated. I guess it's like music, after so many years the music becomes public domain, but to copysomething 100% wihtout changing it could cause trouble. :)
Did you have to put a seam on the squirrel?
Good question! I am not sure how it would have worked without the seam, as some of these statues are just too breakable without a seam. The squirrel is right on the edge of needing one, but my rule is "better safe than sorry," as I have had a few that have not worked out right time after time because of no seam. It is especially important on small parts of the statue that could face a lot of pressure.
These videos have been extremely helpful for me!
I was hoping to get a bit of advice. I am making a life-sized Gila Monster sculpture that I hope to make a mold for and eventually make concrete copies of. However (I am not sure you are familiar with gila monsters) the lizard is covered in thousands of little bumps that I have incorporated into the sculpture.
I am sure plaster would be able to get those small details but will I have any problems with Concrete?
I was surprised how fine of detail the concrete has done. Everything has been kept on my tortoise, for example, which has lots of fine details.
When I do items with more detail I use premiuim white cement. Vibrate well while pouring and keep the consistency porridge like.
Nice...how would I make a mold for a concrete bowl?
Hi Elaine, A mold for a bowl would likely be a two-piece mold with the opening on the bottom. I've thought about a birdbath, and those are usually two separate molds, one for the pedestal and one for the base.