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Thanks for watching and the kind words. It is a fairly rewarding and interesting process...good luck!

I do not sell molds, so I am sorry. It's a rare thing to find someone who sells the molds and all!

I am moving mine into my shed (that has windows) now, so that it avoids the hard freezes of winter. I did have one last year that I kept in my living space (room temp), but I find that in a garage, shed, etc. works great. I will save most of my pruning for late winter, but I have a couple that have grown large, so I will trim these back so that they fit in the shed space that I have for them. Over the winter, they will lose a few leaves periodically, but overall, they just go dormant. Every 6 to 8 weeks, I might also put some water in them to ensure they don't dry out.

Thanks for watching! It's been a couple years, and the tree is still doing great and I have no regrets about the height I cut it to.

Thanks for watching and for sharing your words!

Thanks for watching and for sharing your words!

I prune mine in the winter, when the leaves have all fallen, but before the new buds pop for spring. In Seattle area, I wait until late winter.

Thanks for watching. How close are you to Carnforth? I've got family there. Anyway, enjoy and good luck!

@@backyardadventureswithandy I live Near Kendal. Only about 10 miles from Carnforth. While I'm Here, do you ever use Latex Thickener. ? thanks.

Thanks for watching!

Yes, you are right. Thanks for the advice and for watching.

There likely is some slight difference, but it has never been noticeable. In fact, I am sure under a microscope, that there would be several differences and no two statues exactly alike. Also, there are others who use other methods like a PVA primer, so if there is a concern, perhaps research that method more. Thanks for watching!

Possibly! I was new at this when I did the video...Thanks for watching!

I do not know about this...what is Hydro?

I also have a deer statue with long legs to fix. Mine has been in the garage for about 10 years, too! The legs are much more tricky!

I meant to make a video of these, but never got back to it. I have to dig in my files to find this someday...Sorry!

Yes, most anything that is hard or firm. I've done it on porcelain, plastic, wood, hardened clay, and maybe over other things.

@@backyardadventureswithandy just trying my first latex mould, any tips for a beginner mate? do you use latex thickener as a tub doesn't seem to go very far.

Just a pink, plastic tape used for construction sites and warning. It is also called warning tape.

You're welcome

They have survived year after year when they are protected in my shed through the winter. Every one that stayed outside in the Seattle-area winter has died off each year, so I do think it is key to have it in a place like a garage, shed, or other spot that gets cool, but not freezes. They are a beautiful flower and plant!

I suspect that you will start seeing increased growth each year, assuming conditions, pollinators, etc. are normal. They are a fun apple to grow!

Interesting! I've not experienced the Pippin, but as for the Wolf River, it has produced quite a bit of large apples each year. I'm going to try some grafting this winter/spring to see if I can mix some of my trees up a bit.

I would love to see how the mix of apples would turn out, but that would take years. I do plan on trying some grafting to at least mix my trees up a bit, but maybe I'll save some seeds and see if I can get them to grow.

I think you could try to shape a beak with a cement mixture and basically glue or fix it on, but I doubt it will ever be that good. Perhaps molding a new statue, if it is a valuable statue for you? I have a chicken with beak issues sometimes, and mine never was the same, but my mold allowed me to start over.

@backyardadventureswithandy thank you! It was my grandma's so I will try to repair it. Your videos are amazing btw! And thank you for taking the time to answer me.

Thanks for watching and hopefully these videos give you a great start in this fun hobby!

I use the normal premix bags from my local hardware store, which works great for my statues. As for seams, I have another video that shows repairs, and in that I talk about using cement (Portland Cement) to repairs seams. It is concrete without the sand and gravel, and it makes a big difference in the seams.

Good luck, and I hope your trees thrive. They are beautiful trees. Right now, mine are shedding leaves and getting ready for winter. Do you have a pollinator (2nd variety) for better nut production?

Yes, they are quite a conversation piece!

I have not in the statues I have made and never had an issue. The latex pops off of things like shiny ceramic or plastic much easier than concrete, but sometimes it causes lifting or bubbling if it doesn't stick as well. I prefer no mold release.

The rootstock can be quite a variety of different apples, but the "pro" growers/sellers that make these choose a variety that helps with better size, etc. That is why you can have a dwarf or a full-size tree growing the same apple varieties. And, you can choose a type of apple tree you already like and graft new types onto it.

Wow, thanks for the kind words and also sharing about your project you are considering. I can see how the concept for different needs for a mold can cross into thinks like silicone, resins, etc. I've enjoyed this hobby over the years, and hope that this is helpful. Thanks again.

I have two smaall pots and five plants in ground, what can i do

These will often survive the winter, so you can leave them outside.

Thanks for watching and I hope your bush thrives. What I say, I say as a "backyard gardener," not an expert. I would report and fertilize at the same time. Also, I have found that my leaves are really rich green when shaded, but sometimes there are less flowers with more shade. For example, the varieties I had in more sun has way more flowers than the ones in the shade.

Thank you! ​@@backyardadventureswithandy

I don't know for sure what is best, but I would cut it back a little at a time, keeping some growth below. It might take a while, but that is what I would do.

I can't remember, but I think I found it at a thrift store. Why do you ask?

You are welcome! Thanks for watching.

I wash it with dish soap and water two or three times, or sometimes put it through the dishwasher.

No worries, it is just my style of video. There are some other wonderful UA-camrs who can perhaps connect better with you. Have a wonderful day!

That is totally possible, as that is how most of the garden art is made. It's a pretty large piece, so that is a lot to start your first statue with, but it is possible and seems like a good one to try!

If you leave a mold on "too long," the hardness can be a challenge for cleaning the seams and seems to affect the mold, however, I have shifted for some of my statues to give them an extra day of curing. The outside temperature and humidity also affects this, so I leave them longer in the winter than I do in the summer.

I hear you and would agree that there is a whole other step you can take with making your own item from scratch. For generations, I've heard that most of the garden statues have been duplicated items of other duplicated items for concrete work. Perhaps a better title would include duplicating an item to make a garden statue?

You are correct. Not all of us are artist, but want to make stuff.

Thanks for watching. I'll share what I have experienced, but I am not an expert. I will pre-measure my lye in a small bowl (glass) while in a dry state (without water, etc.). When I am ready to mix it, I use a large bowl/pan that can withstand hot temperatures with a quick rise in temperature from the chemical reaction. In my case, this has been a ceramic covered metal pot from a crockpot. I've used it for years, and it is easy to clean and seems effective. Part of my reasoning is that the thick sides also help cool the mixed lye mixture so I do not have to wait as long to mix my soap. Also, as for utensils, I have washed my utensils afterwards and am comfortable using them again in my kitchen, but best practice is to use soap making utensils for soap, as lye can be dangerous if ingested. I usually extra wash things I also use for cooking, and again, I personally am comfortable with it.

@@backyardadventureswithandy thank you so much💯

Correct, 8.7 ounces.

The flat part, where you pour your concrete, can be altered to have a cavity for keys or just to make it lighter. Once, I put a bolt through it and sticking out so someone could chain it to something. AS for the house, probably take a pipe or something to create the gap for the hose would work. Good idea as a way to hold a hose or drip line down.

Thanks, and we are still pleased with this a couple years later...

Thanks for watching. I am not an expert on these enough to know, but with a continual effort of shaping, my understanding is that other shapes can happen, similar to a bonsai effect.

@@backyardadventureswithandy Thank you !

I don't sell my molds because the cost and time to make one makes them more expensive than most people realize. This is a hobby more than a business for me.

I use the common concrete mix from my local hardware store, and it says "high strength" on it. It works well without anything extra added to it, however, I got spooked a couple years back after reading recommendations to add extra cement to the mix, and so I usually put a few cups of cement to my mix. It seems to be the same. There are stronger mixes sold, but I have not used those.

As a general rule, you do not want plants touching a structure, so there is wisdom in that. Is the N. Cal thing for fire safety, bugs, or something else? That seems strange to have no plants in beds near the house. I would suggest keeping things 1 foot from the house, but I don't know your area's situation. By the way, mine is thriving where it is at, and I need to prune each year to keep it the right size and from growing into touching my house. Thanks for watching!

California says it all lol

@@backyardadventureswithandy It is safety. The Dixie fire destroyed our town of Greenville, California in 2021. Luckily, we didn’t burn, but they did start backfires on our property that probably saved our home and barn. Not having the ability to have nice looking plants growing up against or near the house bums me out, but I understand why. Since I posted that yesterday, I discussed moving the Rose of Sharon to another spot and my wife agreed. We are on 6 acres of Ponderosa Pines, Cedars, a couple kinds of firs, and oaks. at the 3600 foot elevation, the Rose of Sharon provides a little bit of semi tropical oasis.

@@backyardadventureswithandy fire.ca.gov defensible space information California's "ember-resistant zone," designated as Zone 0, is a critical component of the state's wildfire defense strategy. This zone encompasses the area within 5 feet of a structure and aims to prevent ignition from embers, which are a primary cause of home fires during wildfires. Key Guidelines for Zone 0: Vegetation: Remove all flammable vegetation. If any plants are present, they should be low-growing, nonwoody, and well-maintained. CALOES NEWS Ground Cover: Use noncombustible materials such as gravel, pavers, or concrete. Avoid combustible mulch like bark. CALFIRE Structures: Ensure that decks, fences, and other structures within this zone are made of noncombustible materials. CALOES NEWS Combustible Items: Remove items like firewood, lumber, and other combustible materials from this area. CALOES NEWS We got dropped by our old insurance company because we have a wooden deck. Lowe's quoted us 45K to remove and replace it.

Interesting...maybe some varieties can handle that. I have seen some that get more established can handle more sun, but they seem to thrive with some protection in my areas. Thanks for watching!