Great video! I have been building models since I was a child in the 70's. I initially brush painted models. More recently, I have used spray cans. I bought an Iwata airbrush and a compressor about 5-6 years ago. I haven't used it yet, but I am currently building a 1/48th Airfix Hurricane, my intention is to use the airbrush to paint it. I found your video very useful indeed, so thank you for posting!
Its been a year since I got into scale modelling, and I couldnt wait to practice on airbrushing when my airbrush kit came soon! This tip is helpful, especially for those who want to try for doing a camo pattern. Cant wait to build the MiG-29 with ittt
How do you avoid the camo pattern outline line (if you know what I mean!) showing after you've 'filled in'? To me it always seems to be a bit denser and is thus visible as an outline.
@@FinsburyPhil it'll come with practice, but essentially you need to spray the outline as light as possible, using it only as a guide for the actual spraying if that makes any sense, working up to it with dense spraying until it's only just covered up :)
Are you using acrylics in this video? What's the thinning ratio? Love this video, only one i found dedicated to how to go about this on aircrafts. Cheers
I believe in this video I'm mostly using tamiya acrylics/Mr color aqueous colours :) thinning ratio varies from pot to pot, though a good target to go for is thinning it down to the consistency of milk 👍🏻
Hey, what paint are you using? It's probably down to thinning ratio, but sometimes certain paints are more prone to blockages and spitting due to larger particle size/unsuitability for airbrush use
@@simonjustie3206 Hey, Tamiya is definitely the better option to go for here as it features a much smaller particle size than Vallejo, as well as being alcohol based so it's much less prone to gunking up. If you can, definitely get yourself a bottle of mr. levelling thinner as this is the best thinner for Tamiya acrylics - however, if you can't, then isopropyl alcohol (99%) is a very good alternative. Start by thinning the paint down to around 60% thinner and 40% paint, adjusting from there depending on what your results are like. If your nozzle is already blocked from previous attempts, then letting it soak in alcohol overnight can help to loosen up any buildup, which you can then poke out with a toothpick or carefully with the needle itself (just make sure that if you do soak the nozzle, any gaskets/seals are removed from it before soaking, as they can be damaged by contact with certain chemicals). Hope this helps, good luck :)
Hello i am new to plastic models. What beginners airbrush kit can i buy and what paints and thinners as a beginner. I have F 18 mission impossible model to built. Need help to figure out if i can just use brush to paint. In case i use brush, what paint type and brand i can use.
For a beginner I'd highly recommend picking up a fengda airbrush, great balance between quality and price. As for paints, lacquers will provide the best quality finish, however you'd be better off starting with Vallejo Model Air acrylics as they're far less toxic and are far more forgiving in general :)
Just wonder.. if I have 20pcs aircraft in same models. And I want to paint it with camou. How could I make sure all 20pcs have the same patern camou?. Not miss 1 or 2 mm from the real 😅
Welp, I've never thought to consider the nozzle size on my airbrushes. Currently using the Iwata Neo, which apparently has a 0.5 mm head. So... That might explain why I have a hard time getting really fine lines. Looks like I can order a 0.35mm, though.
Hi, I'm really struggling with fine line camouflage (my first camouflage), using Paasche Talon GF 0.38 mm with Vallejo model air. Paint as a tendancy to splatter and the lines are not very clean also. I'm spraying at 10 PSI and 4-5 cm on the surface. BUT I have to tell you that I'm practising on Plexiglass surface unprimed, because I just don't want to mess up on the model. As the surface is very glossy, does it could explain more splattering than it could on a model surface?
Hi, If you mean the paint is spidering, then this could definitely be because of the Plexiglass you a spraying onto - however, if it is a grainy finish, it's probably best to either thin the paint down further slightly with flow improver, or to play around with the pressure until it looks better!
@@ModellingWeekly Thanks to you, yes there is definitively spidering a little bit and I think you're right about the surface. 10 PSI with a GF is it sound too low to be close to the surface? What are your recommandations?
@@lbboy2513 I'd say if you have any spare kit parts to try spraying on, that would be best - as I said before, definitely dry toggling the pressure a little to see what happens. I wish I could help you even more, though it's different with every airbrush and compressor setup! Good luck!
man, I don't know if you have yet explained it, but can you make a tutorial on how to prepare and clean an airbrush? I have one at home but I struggle to get it to work because I'm also scared, I don't want to break it
I have a tutorial on how to deep clean your airbrush, though I should really get round to making a good beginners tutorial that covers all bases 👍🏻 thanks for asking! Btw, the cleaning video is linked in description :)
I’ve been getting my butt kicked trying to do ultra fine lines using an H&S 0.15, and 0.2mm nozzle using Tamiya thinned with IPA down to 90% thinner. I’ve been trying between 10 and 15psi with no change in result. Still getting tip-dry after a minute or so. Added a few drops of Tamiya Paint Retarder to no avail. Nozzle is totally clean, needle perfect. Actually put a new set in to see if I was missing something. Not sure what else to try. Getting tip dry at such high dilution makes no sense. Any ideas?
Given you have tried everything, the only thing that I could possibly think of is the paint itself! If the paint is a bad pot, or that particular colour is a bad mix, then no amount of thinning would prevent small blockages on the end of the needle, making it seem like it's going tip dry. Just to check this out, I'd do a control using a pot of paint that you know is a good mix/colour! Good luck man :)
A bit late, but IPA is your issue. It evaporates far too quickly for this type of painting (although there are times you want quick-drying!). Try Tamiya's lacquer thinner and add a drop or two of the retarded per 20ish drops of paint. I usually do equal or greater thinner to paint, just depends on the needle size.
Ive been tempted to buy and airbush kit but im a behringer and havent built a model in yesrs my main worry about getting one is spending loads off money not getting on with one and then theres oversally cleaning it all the time space to use how mucth mess do they make in a room if to wear proctive equipment reson i wanted one is to have a neast finish and i would really like to just add abit off detail to my model like adding panel lines and add black around the exaust off a spitfire nothing to crazy just wanna do a nice job i would use tamiya paint as there ange off coulers is good ive heard tamiya paint isnt greeat for brush painting tho i wouldn't wanna make to many brush marks either so not sure what i wann do yet as i have a revvell 1/32 spitfire i got about 3 years ago that i havent built and wanna build it
I've seen quite a few people use small hypodermic needles to deal with small holes such as this, maybe that could work? Alternatively, you could heat up the tip of a pin and melt a hole into the gun barrel :)
It will destroy it if you plunge it in there like a 4 year old. If you are careful, it's the most effective way to clean nozzle gunk. I've been doing it for 3 years, no adverse consequences. You can even buy needles that are made for this if you're too scared of damaging your actual needle.
I hope you guys found the video helpful!
I did, thanks!
Great video! I have been building models since I was a child in the 70's. I initially brush painted models. More recently, I have used spray cans. I bought an Iwata airbrush and a compressor about 5-6 years ago. I haven't used it yet, but I am currently building a 1/48th Airfix Hurricane, my intention is to use the airbrush to paint it. I found your video very useful indeed, so thank you for posting!
Top Tips right there!
Thanks Matt! 😄
just got into 3d printing and painting, this is exactly what I needed!
Very glad I could help you out!
Its been a year since I got into scale modelling, and I couldnt wait to practice on airbrushing when my airbrush kit came soon! This tip is helpful, especially for those who want to try for doing a camo pattern. Cant wait to build the MiG-29 with ittt
Glad you are excited to try it out! It will be brilliant mate :D
Really useful vid, thanks!
Such a great video!!!! Thank you very very much!!!!!!! 👌👍
No worries!
You made look easy! I will give it a try, I spend a lot of time masking!
Glad to hear it helped! 😄
was in the process of butchering a spitfire's paintwork, will deffo be giving these things a go before proceeding any further. Thanks MW :)
No problem! Good luck 😄
So what sequence do you paint camo?
First- Light blue/gray underside?
Second- Lighter top side camo?
Third- Darker top side camo?
Exactly right 😊
How do you avoid the camo pattern outline line (if you know what I mean!) showing after you've 'filled in'? To me it always seems to be a bit denser and is thus visible as an outline.
@@FinsburyPhil it'll come with practice, but essentially you need to spray the outline as light as possible, using it only as a guide for the actual spraying if that makes any sense, working up to it with dense spraying until it's only just covered up :)
@@ModellingWeekly Thanks. As you say, like everything, practice!
Hello sir - what a very helpful video, cheers Liam
Thank you!
Are you using acrylics in this video? What's the thinning ratio? Love this video, only one i found dedicated to how to go about this on aircrafts. Cheers
I believe in this video I'm mostly using tamiya acrylics/Mr color aqueous colours :) thinning ratio varies from pot to pot, though a good target to go for is thinning it down to the consistency of milk 👍🏻
My Badger 150 spatters or clogs up when using a fine needle/ nozzle to do camo. What am I doing wrong?
Hey, what paint are you using? It's probably down to thinning ratio, but sometimes certain paints are more prone to blockages and spitting due to larger particle size/unsuitability for airbrush use
Hi I use Tamiya or Vellejo
@@simonjustie3206 Hey, Tamiya is definitely the better option to go for here as it features a much smaller particle size than Vallejo, as well as being alcohol based so it's much less prone to gunking up. If you can, definitely get yourself a bottle of mr. levelling thinner as this is the best thinner for Tamiya acrylics - however, if you can't, then isopropyl alcohol (99%) is a very good alternative. Start by thinning the paint down to around 60% thinner and 40% paint, adjusting from there depending on what your results are like. If your nozzle is already blocked from previous attempts, then letting it soak in alcohol overnight can help to loosen up any buildup, which you can then poke out with a toothpick or carefully with the needle itself (just make sure that if you do soak the nozzle, any gaskets/seals are removed from it before soaking, as they can be damaged by contact with certain chemicals). Hope this helps, good luck :)
I think for 72ns scale you're probably better off with usiung blu-tack sausages, but I know sometimes you want that tiny bit of overspray.
True that, I just wanted to aim the video at 'free-hand' spraying if you know what I mean. 👍🏻
For the grey, is it just the factory colour of the kit?
No I sprayed it
This really helps thanks so much
😀😀
Hello i am new to plastic models. What beginners airbrush kit can i buy and what paints and thinners as a beginner. I have F 18 mission impossible model to built. Need help to figure out if i can just use brush to paint. In case i use brush, what paint type and brand i can use.
For a beginner I'd highly recommend picking up a fengda airbrush, great balance between quality and price. As for paints, lacquers will provide the best quality finish, however you'd be better off starting with Vallejo Model Air acrylics as they're far less toxic and are far more forgiving in general :)
This is very helpful. Thanks
No problem mate :)
Just wonder.. if I have 20pcs aircraft in same models. And I want to paint it with camou. How could I make sure all 20pcs have the same patern camou?. Not miss 1 or 2 mm from the real 😅
Welp, I've never thought to consider the nozzle size on my airbrushes. Currently using the Iwata Neo, which apparently has a 0.5 mm head. So... That might explain why I have a hard time getting really fine lines. Looks like I can order a 0.35mm, though.
Great techniques, im just getting back into modeling and ill be giving this a try here in a day or two. Thanks for sharing.
Hi, I'm really struggling with fine line camouflage (my first camouflage), using Paasche Talon GF 0.38 mm with Vallejo model air. Paint as a tendancy to splatter and the lines are not very clean also. I'm spraying at 10 PSI and 4-5 cm on the surface. BUT I have to tell you that I'm practising on Plexiglass surface unprimed, because I just don't want to mess up on the model. As the surface is very glossy, does it could explain more splattering than it could on a model surface?
Hi, If you mean the paint is spidering, then this could definitely be because of the Plexiglass you a spraying onto - however, if it is a grainy finish, it's probably best to either thin the paint down further slightly with flow improver, or to play around with the pressure until it looks better!
@@ModellingWeekly Thanks to you, yes there is definitively spidering a little bit and I think you're right about the surface. 10 PSI with a GF is it sound too low to be close to the surface? What are your recommandations?
@@lbboy2513 I'd say if you have any spare kit parts to try spraying on, that would be best - as I said before, definitely dry toggling the pressure a little to see what happens. I wish I could help you even more, though it's different with every airbrush and compressor setup! Good luck!
You can also polish the needle to make it's transition thru the packing smoother.
Good tip!
man, I don't know if you have yet explained it, but can you make a tutorial on how to prepare and clean an airbrush? I have one at home but I struggle to get it to work because I'm also scared, I don't want to break it
I have a tutorial on how to deep clean your airbrush, though I should really get round to making a good beginners tutorial that covers all bases 👍🏻 thanks for asking! Btw, the cleaning video is linked in description :)
@@ModellingWeekly thank you so much :)
To make a good camouflage effect i think 0.3mm nozze is better!😅
I’ve been getting my butt kicked trying to do ultra fine lines using an H&S 0.15, and 0.2mm nozzle using Tamiya thinned with IPA down to 90% thinner. I’ve been trying between 10 and 15psi with no change in result. Still getting tip-dry after a minute or so. Added a few drops of Tamiya Paint Retarder to no avail. Nozzle is totally clean, needle perfect. Actually put a new set in to see if I was missing something. Not sure what else to try. Getting tip dry at such high dilution makes no sense. Any ideas?
Given you have tried everything, the only thing that I could possibly think of is the paint itself! If the paint is a bad pot, or that particular colour is a bad mix, then no amount of thinning would prevent small blockages on the end of the needle, making it seem like it's going tip dry. Just to check this out, I'd do a control using a pot of paint that you know is a good mix/colour! Good luck man :)
What AB do you have? If it's cheap you'll never get good results no matter how fine the needle.
A bit late, but IPA is your issue. It evaporates far too quickly for this type of painting (although there are times you want quick-drying!). Try Tamiya's lacquer thinner and add a drop or two of the retarded per 20ish drops of paint. I usually do equal or greater thinner to paint, just depends on the needle size.
Ive been tempted to buy and airbush kit but im a behringer and havent built a model in yesrs my main worry about getting one is spending loads off money not getting on with one and then theres oversally cleaning it all the time space to use how mucth mess do they make in a room if to wear proctive equipment reson i wanted one is to have a neast finish and i would really like to just add abit off detail to my model like adding panel lines and add black around the exaust off a spitfire nothing to crazy just wanna do a nice job i would use tamiya paint as there ange off coulers is good ive heard tamiya paint isnt greeat for brush painting tho i wouldn't wanna make to many brush marks either so not sure what i wann do yet as i have a revvell 1/32 spitfire i got about 3 years ago that i havent built and wanna build it
Hey modelling weekly I'm your biggest fan please notice me
Officially noticed
😩😩😩
I have a iwata eclipse because I usually build cars but could I use it for camo?
Of course, so long as the nozzle is reasonably small you'll be fine
Thanks
Which airbrush do you use?
Harder and steenbeck infinity, though some of the clips here were with the ultra :)
I need a technique to drill a centred hole in a < 1mm piece of plastic rod to simulate a gun barrel?
I've seen quite a few people use small hypodermic needles to deal with small holes such as this, maybe that could work? Alternatively, you could heat up the tip of a pin and melt a hole into the gun barrel :)
DO NOT use a needle to clean the nozzle, it will destroy it. Use a long liner brush soaked in thinner.
It will destroy it if you plunge it in there like a 4 year old. If you are careful, it's the most effective way to clean nozzle gunk. I've been doing it for 3 years, no adverse consequences. You can even buy needles that are made for this if you're too scared of damaging your actual needle.
Spraying fine lines is one of the most infuriating things
Totally agree lol