Why can't Ford just leave it alone. Remember how they re-invented the spark plug a few years ago? Disaster. Plastic oil pan? What could possibly go wrong?
Right. I think it was the triton 3 valve that only had 3 threads holding the plug in and the plug would shoot back out. Or the fuel tank straps that rotted out and people would loose their gas tank while driving. Also the whole tires at 23 psi thing back in the day and then blame Firestone
@@thebartendermechanic The 03' and older 2V Modulars had the short threads in the head and the 4.0l V6. About 4 complete revolutions of thread. In 04 up a longer thread length was added. What Ford did with the short threads is they went from iron heads to aluminum heads and kept the old spark plug design with a short thread length. Obviously iron is stronger than aluminum and got damaged easier. Then on the 04'-early 08' 3V modulars they went to new plug design that got stuck in the head. In late 08'up they changed the plug design on the 3V modular plugs once again to an all threaded design with no long protrusion on the plug so they didn't get stuck. If you need to design spark plugs for an engine, just don't ask Ford for help.
@@sdvten thank you this is good information, I remember the plugs getting stuck in the head they would rust in the head and the had that special tool to take them out.
Yep. Frame members. Crossmembers right underneath is fun. Almost impossible to get the oil residue off so the customer thinks that there is now a leak.
...and NOW with the NEW Space-Saving Design. My '13 F-150 3.5L ECOB...has the drain plug on the RR of the aluminum pan...just above a big, ol' sway bar. ALWAYS a THRILL, every 5K mi. while at "operating temperature".
Well, the engine goes where it’s gonna fit and the sway bar goes where it’s gonna function, I guess the designers could have put a notation in the service manual to alert the technician to have a rag handy to wipe off the sway bar when they change the oil ?
Look what plastic composites have done for bright auto trim. No mo' nasty chrome plating w/later-on EPA TOXIC CLEAN-UP. I bet your car/truck engine has a composite intake manifold. Imagine trying to cast/machine such a "monstrocity" in aluminum METAL.
They are copying bmw. New BMWs are pure junk after 4 years of heat cycling the plastic engine components. This is the aim; they want failure, their business depends on it
@@thebartendermechanic He's pulling your leg. While a light weight plastic or composite carbon fiber connecting rod would be a thing every manufacturer would welcome it can't be done because of the forces placed on the Conrod by the piston. Rods made of metal bend and stretch and have to withstand forces measured in Tons of force. Only steel and aluminum are cost effective AND robust enough to handle the forces. People have been trying to make every part of an engine plastic since the 60s.
In the mid 90s I actually built a drag race engine with pink plastic "unbreakable" connecting rods. Fun fact = Can't break 'em but they WILL stretch and make a hell of a noise pistons tapping on the cylinder heads. Wait 24 hours and they return to original size. Problem is if you build the engine with enough clearance to avoid that then you have lower compression ratio - and you're going to lose every race !
I'm sure we'll be able to get aftermarket metal oil pans with traditional drain plugs, especially after the quickie oil change shops start "overtorquing" and wrecking these new plastic ones.
or in 5 years when that finger tab breaks off. I'd def change it after about 8-9 years, I had the plastic oil cartridge cap on a 12yo ford crack and spew oil all over the place.
Ford says these are 1-time use. Last year I went to 3 oil change places and none had the plugs. I had to go to a dealership, buy a couple then go back for an oil change. Stupid!
@@bpkmm3048 where do you get your oil changed? I work at Jiffy Lube and we rarely replace these plugs. I don't see how they're single use. I have seen the rubber o-ring become flattened around the outside over time and have replaced them because of that.
@@thebartendermechanic but there’s been plenty of time. Those plastic pans and drain plugs came out 10 years ago and I’ve never heard of any major problems from them.
@@stephenmartinez1 alright, that's good to know, maybe they are better than the metal pans. I personally haven't seen them, but I usually work on bigger machines
No need to ever worry about ruining an oil pan due to over tightening the bolt. A lot of repair shops and inexperienced DIY’ers ruin them. I think the design is cool, personally.
Yes, I do own a Ford. I had hoped that the manufacturer had learned a lesson with the first two years of the diesel 6.7 (2011/12) and that those plastic parts are junk, often leaking or breaking. Somewhere I still have a spare drain plug from my 2011 F350 - probably stored in the same place as the spare plastic fuel filter cannister that often breaks.
@@adog3336 You might do your homework before you challenge a FORD diesel Super Duty owner with a FORD designed and built engine. Ford stopped using Navistar engines. a 6.4L with the 2010 year. The 2011 Ford uses their own design, a 6.7L 400Hp/800Lb ft torque engine and continues using that same basic bullet proof engine with many upgrades into the 2024 (500Hp/1200 lb ft torque) model year. Additionally Ford designed and built a 3.0L diesel for the 2018-2021 F150
@@adog3336 You would never work on my Ford with that lack of knowledge. You might want to actually learn what you are working on if you are actually a Ford tech working on 6.7s. You might actually learn that Navistar almost drove Ford Super Duty trucks out of business with their crappy 6.0 and 6.4 self destructing trash engines. As far as GM and Dodge/RAM, I really don't care what they use for an engine though the pre DEF Cummins are about as good as any light duty pick up engines
I started as a maintenance mechanic trainee back in 1983 and now have 40 years of experience in many different forms from industrial, commercial, residential, automotive and motorcycles mostly. I would have to guess that ford chose composites because of lower costs and weight savings...it's very true how often I find broken and stripped threads in many applications ,drain bolts are pretty common and it never ceases to disappoint me because it's such a simple process and if you're actually a mechanic you don't make this mistake ever. Now do it yourselfers, weekend warriors and non mechanics don't have the understanding or the patience to understand that a drain bolt doesn't hold the titanic to port and in fact takes very little torque to seal and stay in place...ford started putting o rings on their drain bolts years ago and many manufacturers use a single use compression fitting in an attempt to help the not so sharp individual not over tighten, strip or otherwise cause damage while trying to save money. I hope this helps anyone who wants to do their own work and when all else fails follow directions ! Get a service manual that will include torque specifications for each and every fastener.
For 7yrs. I had the FORD Maintenance agreement for oil/oil fltr changes ev'ry 5K mi. on my 2013 3.5L ECOBOOST. NOW I do it MYSELF. What HORRIBLE, MESSY undertaking!!! The oil filter lays on its side. The drain plug is back by the auto. trans. ...just above the anti-sway bar. There are 2 underpanels to deal with. FORD "engineered" a way ( a removable hole ) to access the filter w/o removing the front panel, but it will drip black oil for DAYS if the entire panel is not taken off. I like the MERCEDES-BENZ oil drain method best. Vacuuming it out thru the oil dipstick tube. The filter is accessed from above & the oil drains back into the pan by loosening the cover & raising it up a little bit. MUCH MUCH NICER. My FORD has no dipstick tube.
On my 9th oil change with this plug. After the first use. I just use pliers to pull and twist. Learned my lesson. I actually haven't had to use my replacement plug yet. And am still on the original from the factory. Besides the learning curve for the first time I used it. It's been fine.
Maybe ford could put an oil drain on it that just shoots clear of the truck itself right into the oil catch pan. The way some of this stuff is designed I'm surprised you don't have to fold the mirrors in and remove the rear driveshaft to change an air filter. I mean, think about what your thinkn about ford.
I had a F-150 with the Triton V-8 motor, which had a plastic intake manifold. One corner cracked and started leaking antifreeze. I'm sure nothing like that will happen with these plastic oil pans. Just wait until they start making pistons out of plastic.
Yup, a plastic oil pan plus plug😢. Any guesses how many frozen winter days will pass by the time the plastic begins to warp or crack..? In winter conditions the pan is being assaulted by high temp oil Inside and by freezing -25 degree air on the outside. I can forsee hairline cracks within a few years.
This is why Ford keeps having oil pan problems, leaking and breaking. Even the 6.7l is having tons of problems, newer ones you have to pull the engine to replace the upper oil pan. I just can't believe its much cheaper to make these plastic pans and plugs than a regular old stamped steel pan and steel drain plug. Glass fiber filled plastic is hard on molds and molds are expensive to make. I'm sure the plastic pans are lighter than steel but were are only talking about a couple pounds.
I think its still cheaper than steel, I have seen that oil leaks on the upper oil pans where you have pull the motor, but I think its just the gas motors with the plastic pans
This is one of the dumbest things I've ever seen. I just became a Ford man after standing beside GM for my entire life. After my first oil change on my F-150 I wanted to sell it again. I still have Sawdust on my garage floor soaking up all the oil that slams into the torsion bar on the way to the pan. If I had a pan the size of a bathtub........
Levi Levi, that drain plug has a two-phase release. In that first phase, you can drain the oil without making a huge mess but it takes a little while until the pressure is relieved. Then screwing the drain plug off on the second phase let’s it drain like normal. I know…it’s a PITA but that’s the way I had to do it so I wouldn’t make a huge mess! 🤷🏻♂️
@@carlovanrijk4039 thank you Carlo! I feel real smart now. LOL. Seriously I appreciate the info. I even watched a UA-cam video before I got started just as a precaution. Seems there's a couple other guys on here that didn't know that either. I hope they see your post. Again, thank you.
@@levilevi6248 I guess I should tell you that on that first phase release, I had to keep my finger physically positioned on the drain plug while the oil was draining. Like I said, PITA but it kept from making a mess. 🤷🏻♂️
@@thebartendermechanic Did the same for mine, works great with about 18" of tube hooked up to it... the bottom of a 5.0 was engineered by a 12 year old I swear...
Has your got the heated tailgate option, so when your pushing it to the repair shop in the winter, your sissy hands wont get cold? $80 to replace a defective bad idea Ford had. Nice job on the purchase for 60 k
@@SpicyRok7482 it’s really just another big FU from the engineers to mechanics… like why couldn’t it just point straight down? “let’s point it straight at the sway bar, yes that’s will be perfect”
Ford's have had plastic Thermostat housings for years... and Ive had several of them crack and leave me stranded. Can't imagine having to worry about a plastic oil pan cracking and burning up my engine.
No more stripped threads or missing gaskets I guess. It looks like you could just carry a boat drain plug just in case. I do have the sneaky suspicion though that thing will sooner or later fall apart and cost someone a motor years from now.
Well, it's worked for decades on the plastic radiator drain plugs... With the way they make the metal drain plugs and rubber gaskets these days, this design might be better. On my 2016 Wrangler, I change the drain plug every time I change the oil simply because the built in rubber gasket tears each time I change the oil. I don't mind anymore, I just look at it as part of the price of my oil changes and I always have 2 or 3 new spares on hand.
For you know it that plastic oil pan is gonna crack and then you’re gonna have bigger problems. There are just certain things on an engine that should never be plastic and an oil pan is one of them.
For you know it that plastic golf pan is gonna crack and then you’re gonna have bigger problems. There are just certain things on an engine that should never be plastic and an oil pan is one of them.
Very cool! But uhh plastic oil pan?? If overtorqued oil drain bolts were a concern just use those EZ oil drain valves. Curious to see how the plastic holds up with the years
it was price im a old school ford guy started working at ford in 1990 got out many yrs ago after all the changes started . plastic oil pan and plastic oil drain plug is cheaper to make then all metal its simple in a business sense but one day it will bite ford in the rear end your supposed to change the plug at each other change yeah same as the beetle 2019 20t plastic plug and pan
So, just this morning, driving down the road, I get a chime for low oil pressure. Yep, no oil pressure. have to drive 1/2 a block to get out of busy traffic and pull over. Sure enough, no oil pan drain plug. No oil. Couple hrs of finding a new plug and haul some more oil to my truck. Hope I didnt do any damage.
It probably is less expensive to produce than the tooling for a stamped metal pan plus it's likely to transmit less engine noise. But, heaven help you if you run over something. More likely to break, shatter than the metal pan that might deform.
Newer Volkswagens have those, very similar. My '19 Tiguan 2.0L turbo engine had this. Their fine. Saves weight, no danger of cross threads or the wrong torque (loose or tight), no stripped threads. This works.
Go down to your dealer & buy a spare drainplug + several spare O rings that way if either become lost & broken you will still be prepared to finish the job. !
Sooooo….What’s his point?. It’s a pain because of the sway bar. But intakes have been plastic for 30 years. Gaskets are o-rings in grooves that don’t leak. Engines last 200,000 miles with care and maintenance. A 5.0 V8 holds 8+ quarts. All is good with the exception of a Auto transmission dip stick.
Do the plastic thread tabs matter when it comes to keeping the plug in? Or are they more of just guides? I assume the o ring and the outer clips on the plug hold it in…
That oil was changed 25 k ago,, Open the oil fill cap to let air in, I just went to Full synthetic with synthetic filter and drain tray 2 5 qt jugs 100 bucks for want like $ 180 the do a oil reset they don't mention this
Imo- way too long between oil changes on a gasoline motor. My diesel looks like that. My gas motors never do. Perhaps why I get 300,000-400,000 miles out of my engines. Actually longer. I just sell them at that point. Still run great without burning oil.
@@135taz A whole lot LESS friction in today's engines due to different ( fewer ) piston ring set-up...2 compression rings, maybe NO OIL control rings w/scraper. Dark black gas eng. oil is here to stay. Oil smells "gassy" too. Use "SR" oil!
@@135taz they all look like that now. High compression with direct injection. Very similar to a diesel. In fact, particulate filters are being developed for gasoline vehicles.
All of the manufacturers have been using more and more plastic components on their engines for some time. Intake manifolds, valve covers and oil pans etc. It all boils down to cost and weight savings.
On my 2017 F150 I'm going to be replacing my drain plug every 2 years or so, ever since it cracked during an oil change at the dealer and I arrived home a quart low from the leak. And when I tried to tighten it up the plastic crumbled. So obviously 7 years from manuf date is too long for that part.
I own some Fords, some of them have ‘Lifetime Fluids’ in things like rear diffs and PTU’s. Lifetime to them means get it past the warranty period. For example I wanted the rear diff oil in my ‘17 AWD Escape changed, the dealer booked the appointment but then wouldn’t do the job when the time came. The service advisor admitted it was a good idea to change it out as one of their maintenance techs had to replace the rear diff in his Escape probably due to oil breakdown, but they wouldn’t do the job and actually directed me to a third party transmission shop to go to. I did it myself in my driveway.
first thing im replacing in new car is oil drain plug....had 2018 Lariat for two years and there was better replacements for them...current 2020 F350 powerstroke got EZ Drain Valve after 2000km :P
From reading the comments, some people took the news pretty hard. This new design eliminates the need for the sight amount of skill needed to secure old style drain plugs, plus is cheaper and lighter. Obviously fitting a metal bolt repeatedly into a plastic oil pan isn't real smart, so now you just twist a plastic stopper until it clicks, no new crush washer needed to prevent leaks or any chance of mis threading with this part. On my old car, I went to a dedicated oil change valve to eliminate those same problems. much easier and cleaner.
I had a model A Ford that had an aftermarket oil drain petcock valve. It had a ring made into it's handle and you kept a bent piece of steel round stock with you and you just pulled the handle open to drain and shoved it closed when done. Perfect !
Do you think Carole Shelby would allow one of his race cars to have a plastic oil pan on the motor, NOT A CHANCE! THIS IS A FAILURE WAITING TO HAPPEN !
silicone grease works great on those kind of o ring plastic seals i use it on Toyotas reusable plastic filter housings idiots are always overtightening them.
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Funny how the components of fords have got cheaper to manufacture, but the price of their trucks keep going up.
No doubt!
Lol... So damn true
Profits!
Fools keep buying them.
After a number of years when the plastic gets brittle and it leaks they will blame the assembly line union workers.
Why can't Ford just leave it alone. Remember how they re-invented the spark plug a few years ago? Disaster. Plastic oil pan? What could possibly go wrong?
Right. I think it was the triton 3 valve that only had 3 threads holding the plug in and the plug would shoot back out. Or the fuel tank straps that rotted out and people would loose their gas tank while driving. Also the whole tires at 23 psi thing back in the day and then blame Firestone
I'll keep my Silverado !
They didn't read Jeeps notes. Plastic engine. Lego car.
@@thebartendermechanic The 03' and older 2V Modulars had the short threads in the head and the 4.0l V6. About 4 complete revolutions of thread. In 04 up a longer thread length was added. What Ford did with the short threads is they went from iron heads to aluminum heads and kept the old spark plug design with a short thread length. Obviously iron is stronger than aluminum and got damaged easier. Then on the 04'-early 08' 3V modulars they went to new plug design that got stuck in the head. In late 08'up they changed the plug design on the 3V modular plugs once again to an all threaded design with no long protrusion on the plug so they didn't get stuck. If you need to design spark plugs for an engine, just don't ask Ford for help.
@@sdvten thank you this is good information, I remember the plugs getting stuck in the head they would rust in the head and the had that special tool to take them out.
I really like the sway bar right in front of the drain, real smart design.
Good for taking an oil shower
Yep. Frame members. Crossmembers right underneath is fun. Almost impossible to get the oil residue off so the customer thinks that there is now a leak.
...and NOW with the NEW Space-Saving Design.
My '13 F-150 3.5L ECOB...has the drain plug on the RR of the aluminum pan...just above a big, ol' sway bar. ALWAYS a THRILL, every 5K mi. while at "operating temperature".
Those crossmembers need to be lubricated periodically!
Well, the engine goes where it’s gonna fit and the sway bar goes where it’s gonna function, I guess the designers could have put a notation in the service manual to alert the technician to have a rag handy to wipe off the sway bar when they change the oil ?
pretty soon Ford will replace every metal part with plastic. 5 years from now you'll be riding around in a fisher price vehicle.
Look what plastic composites have done for bright auto trim.
No mo' nasty chrome plating w/later-on EPA TOXIC CLEAN-UP.
I bet your car/truck engine has a composite intake manifold.
Imagine trying to cast/machine such a "monstrocity" in aluminum METAL.
They'll make sure to leave some metal body panels that rust out within 10 years up north on a $60k-80k truck.
Little Tikes Cozy Coupe
It will then be called a BMW😅.
They are copying bmw. New BMWs are pure junk after 4 years of heat cycling the plastic engine components. This is the aim; they want failure, their business depends on it
If you shine a borescope up the oil drain hole you’ll see plastic connecting rods also.
No way, plastic connecting rods!!! I don't believe it
@@thebartendermechanic He's pulling your leg. While a light weight plastic or composite carbon fiber connecting rod would be a thing every manufacturer would welcome it can't be done because of the forces placed on the Conrod by the piston. Rods made of metal bend and stretch and have to withstand forces measured in Tons of force. Only steel and aluminum are cost effective AND robust enough to handle the forces. People have been trying to make every part of an engine plastic since the 60s.
@@btwbrand Yeah, plastic connecting rods just didn't make sense to me
With banana peel bearings....
In the mid 90s I actually built a drag race engine with pink plastic "unbreakable" connecting rods.
Fun fact = Can't break 'em but they WILL stretch and make a hell of a noise pistons tapping on the cylinder heads. Wait 24 hours and they return to original size. Problem is if you build the engine with enough clearance to avoid that then you have lower compression ratio - and you're going to lose every race !
I'm sure we'll be able to get aftermarket metal oil pans with traditional drain plugs, especially after the quickie oil change shops start "overtorquing" and wrecking these new plastic ones.
or in 5 years when that finger tab breaks off. I'd def change it after about 8-9 years, I had the plastic oil cartridge cap on a 12yo ford crack and spew oil all over the place.
The whole idea of this design is to prevent overtorquing and damaging the oil pan. The pan has tabs which prevent the plug from turning too far.
Ford says these are 1-time use. Last year I went to 3 oil change places and none had the plugs. I had to go to a dealership, buy a couple then go back for an oil change. Stupid!
@@bpkmm3048changed my oil myself at least 12 times with the same plug. Not sure where you saw/heard it is a 1 time plug!
@@bpkmm3048 where do you get your oil changed? I work at Jiffy Lube and we rarely replace these plugs. I don't see how they're single use. I have seen the rubber o-ring become flattened around the outside over time and have replaced them because of that.
Plastic drain plugs, electric parking brakes, oh my!
If they are using a plastic oil pan, then a plastic drain plug makes perfect sense. They seem to work perfectly well.
Time will tell
@@thebartendermechanic but there’s been plenty of time. Those plastic pans and drain plugs came out 10 years ago and I’ve never heard of any major problems from them.
@@stephenmartinez1 alright, that's good to know, maybe they are better than the metal pans. I personally haven't seen them, but I usually work on bigger machines
No need to ever worry about ruining an oil pan due to over tightening the bolt. A lot of repair shops and inexperienced DIY’ers ruin them. I think the design is cool, personally.
Yes, I do own a Ford. I had hoped that the manufacturer had learned a lesson with the first two years of the diesel 6.7 (2011/12) and that those plastic parts are junk, often leaking or breaking. Somewhere I still have a spare drain plug from my 2011 F350 - probably stored in the same place as the spare plastic fuel filter cannister that often breaks.
Yeah me too, it seems like they keep cutting corners on manufacturing but the price keeps going up
@@adog3336 You might do your homework before you challenge a FORD diesel Super Duty owner with a FORD designed and built engine. Ford stopped using Navistar engines. a 6.4L with the 2010 year. The 2011 Ford uses their own design, a 6.7L 400Hp/800Lb ft torque engine and continues using that same basic bullet proof
engine with many upgrades into the 2024 (500Hp/1200 lb ft torque) model year. Additionally Ford designed and built a 3.0L diesel for the 2018-2021 F150
@@adog3336 You would never work on my Ford with that lack of knowledge. You might want to actually learn what you are working on if you are actually a Ford tech working on 6.7s. You might actually learn that Navistar almost drove Ford Super Duty trucks out of business with their crappy 6.0 and 6.4 self destructing trash engines.
As far as GM and Dodge/RAM, I really don't care what they use for an engine though the pre DEF Cummins are about as good as any light duty pick up engines
I started as a maintenance mechanic trainee back in 1983 and now have 40 years of experience in many different forms from industrial, commercial, residential, automotive and motorcycles mostly. I would have to guess that ford chose composites because of lower costs and weight savings...it's very true how often I find broken and stripped threads in many applications ,drain bolts are pretty common and it never ceases to disappoint me because it's such a simple process and if you're actually a mechanic you don't make this mistake ever. Now do it yourselfers, weekend warriors and non mechanics don't have the understanding or the patience to understand that a drain bolt doesn't hold the titanic to port and in fact takes very little torque to seal and stay in place...ford started putting o rings on their drain bolts years ago and many manufacturers use a single use compression fitting in an attempt to help the not so sharp individual not over tighten, strip or otherwise cause damage while trying to save money. I hope this helps anyone who wants to do their own work and when all else fails follow directions ! Get a service manual that will include torque specifications for each and every fastener.
"hold the titanic to port" lol that's a good one. Your probably right with the cost savings along with trying to prevent over torquing.
@@paulfeasal6024 I was thinking about upgrading to the F-250 6.7 HO diesel
For 7yrs. I had the FORD Maintenance agreement for oil/oil fltr changes ev'ry 5K mi. on my 2013 3.5L ECOBOOST.
NOW I do it MYSELF.
What HORRIBLE, MESSY undertaking!!!
The oil filter lays on its side.
The drain plug is back by the auto. trans. ...just above the anti-sway bar.
There are 2 underpanels to deal with.
FORD "engineered" a way ( a removable hole ) to access the filter w/o removing the front panel, but it will drip black oil for DAYS if the entire panel is not taken off.
I like the MERCEDES-BENZ oil drain method best. Vacuuming it out thru the oil dipstick tube.
The filter is accessed from above & the oil drains back into the pan by loosening the cover & raising it up a little bit. MUCH MUCH NICER.
My FORD has no dipstick tube.
Yeah a torque wrench set at 20-30 lbs is all it needs. Guessing is where people mess up when they don't have the right tools on hand.
@@DavidTMSN They may "think" the right way is to tighten it down until it breaks off, then loosen it a quarter-turn.
On my 9th oil change with this plug. After the first use. I just use pliers to pull and twist. Learned my lesson. I actually haven't had to use my replacement plug yet. And am still on the original from the factory. Besides the learning curve for the first time I used it. It's been fine.
they're supposed to be single use...
@@nealr5530 exactly
You change the oil once. Once.
Enjoy the ticking time bomb while it lasts.. once the oil leaks out because of a crack in the plastic your engine is cooked within minutes
You can reuse them. It's not like a stretch bolt.
Maybe ford could put an oil drain on it that just shoots clear of the truck itself right into the oil catch pan. The way some of this stuff is designed I'm surprised you don't have to fold the mirrors in and remove the rear driveshaft to change an air filter. I mean, think about what your thinkn about ford.
right!
Lmao
You can get a metal replacement, what kills me is the plastic pan….as if that will never leak or crack from heat
it won't dent either
@@thebartendermechanic right it will just split😂
@@thebartendermechanic it does, but it's a different word "warp".
Detroit diesel has been using them since the 90s I think,,,
I had a F-150 with the Triton V-8 motor, which had a plastic intake manifold. One corner cracked and started leaking antifreeze. I'm sure nothing like that will happen with these plastic oil pans. Just wait until they start making pistons out of plastic.
right, i'm sure they're already having problems and someone has thought of that.
I bought a F150 with this drain plug, it was the last F150 I bought.
What f150 did you buy that had this?
@@jacobhinkston6804 It came on the smallest engine - 2.7 liter V6.
It would have been nice if the plug, fully tightened, would be straight up and down vertical so that you could also see it was tight.
Well that makes too much sense
You turn it until it stops. Is not that hard.
Hot oil and plastic. Nothing could possibly go wrong! 😬
I mean, plastic air intake manifolds crack often enough! 🤷♂️
Exactly
After the first oil change I did on my 2018 F150 5.0, I purchased a Ronin Factory replacement. Much cleaner!
I was thinking about getting that
Yup, a plastic oil pan plus plug😢. Any guesses how many frozen winter days will pass by the time the plastic begins to warp or crack..?
In winter conditions the pan is being assaulted by high temp oil Inside and by freezing -25 degree air on the outside.
I can forsee hairline cracks within a few years.
everything breaks in the cold
This is why Ford keeps having oil pan problems, leaking and breaking. Even the 6.7l is having tons of problems, newer ones you have to pull the engine to replace the upper oil pan. I just can't believe its much cheaper to make these plastic pans and plugs than a regular old stamped steel pan and steel drain plug. Glass fiber filled plastic is hard on molds and molds are expensive to make. I'm sure the plastic pans are lighter than steel but were are only talking about a couple pounds.
I think its still cheaper than steel, I have seen that oil leaks on the upper oil pans where you have pull the motor, but I think its just the gas motors with the plastic pans
This is one of the dumbest things I've ever seen. I just became a Ford man after standing beside GM for my entire life. After my first oil change on my F-150 I wanted to sell it again. I still have Sawdust on my garage floor soaking up all the oil that slams into the torsion bar on the way to the pan. If I had a pan the size of a bathtub........
Levi Levi, that drain plug has a two-phase release. In that first phase, you can drain the oil without making a huge mess but it takes a little while until the pressure is relieved. Then screwing the drain plug off on the second phase let’s it drain like normal. I know…it’s a PITA but that’s the way I had to do it so I wouldn’t make a huge mess! 🤷🏻♂️
@@carlovanrijk4039 thank you Carlo! I feel real smart now. LOL. Seriously I appreciate the info. I even watched a UA-cam video before I got started just as a precaution. Seems there's a couple other guys on here that didn't know that either. I hope they see your post. Again, thank you.
@@levilevi6248 you betcha!
@@levilevi6248 I guess I should tell you that on that first phase release, I had to keep my finger physically positioned on the drain plug while the oil was draining. Like I said, PITA but it kept from making a mess. 🤷🏻♂️
I have became a foreign car man after owning fords and some gms...I will never buy an american vehicle again.
The worst part of an oil change for the DIY'er is removing the underneath cover. and the oil comes out like a garden hose.
yes it is the plug is too big and then it hits that crossmember bar and splashes all over the place
I have a 2018 F150 with the turbocharged 2.7 Have the same plastic pan and plug. Zero issues at this point.
I wonder what Henry Ford would think if he could see how his company is going to hell in a hand basket!
I didn't think about that, maybe he is rolling in his grave already
Henry Ford was all in on cost-effectiveness and mass production, I bet he'd be pretty impressed and happy with it.
I replaced the factory plug with the billit Ronin drain plug$80 no more gushing oil
I'll have to look into that
@@thebartendermechanic Did the same for mine, works great with about 18" of tube hooked up to it... the bottom of a 5.0 was engineered by a 12 year old I swear...
@@dshall442 There are ENGINE engineers & there are CHASSIS engineers.
Never the twain shall meet.
Has your got the heated tailgate option, so when your pushing it to the repair shop in the winter, your sissy hands wont get cold?
$80 to replace a defective bad idea Ford had. Nice job on the purchase for 60 k
For $65 I got oil extracted pump no more issues
These have been out for a while. The problem has mainly been with the oil pan leaks.
Still trash no matter how you look at it.
The next evolution in drain plugs will be the cork.
Don't say that too loud
Might be smart to keep a new one in your toolbox. Just in case it cracks or breaks
good idea
New oil pan too. Absolute junk.
I’m glad you opened the vent on your drain pan in time 😂 I can smell the kitty litter already.
They can make a real mess when the engine is hot and the stream hits the sway bar.
A beautiful cascade of flesh-blistering "lava".
@@SpicyRok7482 it’s really just another big FU from the engineers to mechanics… like why couldn’t it just point straight down? “let’s point it straight at the sway bar, yes that’s will be perfect”
Ford's have had plastic Thermostat housings for years... and Ive had several of them crack and leave me stranded. Can't imagine having to worry about a plastic oil pan cracking and burning up my engine.
I've replaced a few of those housings
More plastic & dumb ideas on a $100,000 truck. The trucks are not worth the money they want.
No they are not
No more stripped threads or missing gaskets I guess.
It looks like you could just carry a boat drain plug just in case.
I do have the sneaky suspicion though that thing will sooner or later fall apart and cost someone a motor years from now.
Yeah, I'm thinking the same thing
Crazy how everything is plastic now..... Makes ya wonder if if next 5 to 10 years may crack and be brittle from heat.
Right, time will tell
The most effective sales force for GM and Ram is Ford automotive engineers.
lol that's good
Remember those “Ford. Quality is Job 1” commercials?
@garysmith1863 When were those from? I remember built Ford tough.
Drain plug is least of the problem. That plastic oil pan is causing leaks on almost every Ford/Lincoln vehicle its installed in.
How many miles until they usually start leaking??
Well, it's worked for decades on the plastic radiator drain plugs... With the way they make the metal drain plugs and rubber gaskets these days, this design might be better. On my 2016 Wrangler, I change the drain plug every time I change the oil simply because the built in rubber gasket tears each time I change the oil. I don't mind anymore, I just look at it as part of the price of my oil changes and I always have 2 or 3 new spares on hand.
good point, its smart to have those spares
why not just replace the o ring rather than whole plug?
@@ranger178 The rubber gasket is built into the drain plugs from Dorman - they aren't separate - just like the factory drain plugs.
For you know it that plastic oil pan is gonna crack and then you’re gonna have bigger problems. There are just certain things on an engine that should never be plastic and an oil pan is one of them.
totally agree with you
They're one time use btw... Gotta get a new one every time.
No one is ever going to snap one off with their pliers because plastic is super resilient to becoming brittle with heat!
🤣🤣
As if there's not enough plastic parts on it?... so they just added more. Next will be a plastic engine, which they're actually trying to do btw.
no way, They are trying to make a plastic engine???
@@thebartendermechanic yes, I seen it on a educational channel.
@@garyr7027 That will be interesting
They were working on a plastic engine back in the 80s when I was working at a Ford dealership
Thank goodness my 22 f150 has a metal pan and plug. I'm guessing they realized it wasn't such a good idea.
Really?
Someone should manufacture a metal pan to take the place of that plastic piece. Replacing the whole pan with the metal one is a pain. 🤷♂️
Makes me appreciate my old cars, no plastic engine parts.
I like the old cars, plus I think people put more pride in their work
Cool, man. Learned something. Thanks!
my pleasure
Fumoto valves for the win.
Leave it to Ferd to put a friggin sway bar RIGHT IN FRONT of the oil drain. At this point, they're doing that crap on purpose.
yes they are
Just hold the plug for a few seconds and you won’t make a mess..pretty simple!
I've got to try that
O-rings never fail just ask NASA
The Model T will be still running long after these new vehicles have been long gone😊
They don't make them like they used to
A plastic oil pan is all you need to know about the quality decline at Ford.
right, it breaks my heart a little
Ford engineer got to use his dad's chainsaw one day and thought, "hey..."
your probably right
O'Reillys sells a good tool for the drain plug.
Highly engineered so something can go wrong when this part breaks. Good luck trying to fix it
its plastic, disposable throw it away and get a new one
For you know it that plastic golf pan is gonna crack and then you’re gonna have bigger problems. There are just certain things on an engine that should never be plastic and an oil pan is one of them.
Very cool! But uhh plastic oil pan?? If overtorqued oil drain bolts were a concern just use those EZ oil drain valves. Curious to see how the plastic holds up with the years
Great point!
"Built Ford tough"
Haha 😄 🤣
it was price im a old school ford guy started working at ford in 1990 got out many yrs ago after all the changes started . plastic oil pan and plastic oil drain plug is cheaper to make then all metal its simple in a business sense but one day it will bite ford in the rear end your supposed to change the plug at each other change yeah same as the beetle 2019 20t plastic plug and pan
Yeah, makes sense, I'm scared to see what the F-150 looks like in 15 years
So, just this morning, driving down the road, I get a chime for low oil pressure. Yep, no oil pressure. have to drive 1/2 a block to get out of busy traffic and pull over. Sure enough, no oil pan drain plug. No oil. Couple hrs of finding a new plug and haul some more oil to my truck. Hope I didnt do any damage.
oooohhh nooo, oh man that sucks. Hopefully no damage, I thought something like that would happen with these plugs.
You mention an audible "click". I don't think I hear that when I snug up the plug to the stops.
@@user-jk5nz9cd2k
I would replace the plug, I've heard stories of them falling out
I will never again reuse a plug. And it doesn't have to turn much to come loose. @@thebartendermechanic
@user-jk5nz9cd2k yeah I don't like the design
It probably is less expensive to produce than the tooling for a stamped metal pan plus it's likely to transmit less engine noise. But, heaven help you if you run over something. More likely to break, shatter than the metal pan that might deform.
agreed
Newer Volkswagens have those, very similar. My '19 Tiguan 2.0L turbo engine had this. Their fine. Saves weight, no danger of cross threads or the wrong torque (loose or tight), no stripped threads. This works.
didn't know Volkswagen was doing this
The better ideal folks,remember!
G A R B A G E
Right
Jesus that oil looks like hell
Looks like he changed it 20k ago open up the oil fill cap so it has air
80 grand for a truck you'd kinda like to see a little less plastic!
Who would have thought an Engine would be made of 65% Plastic Components.
not me
Go down to your dealer & buy a spare drainplug + several spare O rings
that way if either become lost & broken you will still be prepared to finish the job.
!
That's a good idea
That's one way to stop idiots from tightening the drain bolt to 500 lb/ft.
right
The reason for it is plastic threads suck. They're weak and get sticky and jam. Ford knows what they're doing.
they plan it out
I upgraded mine to the Ronin oil plug and presto.
I'll have to try that
@@thebartendermechanic Get it you get a controlled flow.
Sooooo….What’s his point?. It’s a pain because of the sway bar. But intakes have been plastic for 30 years. Gaskets are o-rings in grooves that don’t leak. Engines last 200,000 miles with care and maintenance. A 5.0 V8 holds 8+ quarts. All is good with the exception of a Auto transmission dip stick.
Good point
Do the plastic thread tabs matter when it comes to keeping the plug in? Or are they more of just guides? I assume the o ring and the outer clips on the plug hold it in…
The plastic thread holds it in. The tabs sticking out are for the alignment and prevent it from backing out
Bash a metal oil pan on the trail and it dents. Bash a plastic oil pan on the trail and your oil is all over the ground and you are stranded.
exactly
So Canada is going away from plastic, straws, you name it, and now you see this 🤔
Good point
Standard procedure for a Dagenham Dustbin
Oh man, plastic plug and plastic pan. What could go wrong
Lol, we'll find out
My gues is they went that way because it was cheeper.
My 2021 F350 has a metal oil pan with the bolt plug. Guess I missed out on plastic one
I'm a little jealous
That oil was changed 25 k ago,, Open the oil fill cap to let air in, I just went to Full synthetic with synthetic filter and drain tray 2 5 qt jugs 100 bucks for want like $ 180 the do a oil reset they don't mention this
Now that’s some dark oil
Imo- way too long between oil changes on a gasoline motor. My diesel looks like that. My gas motors never do. Perhaps why I get 300,000-400,000 miles out of my engines. Actually longer. I just sell them at that point. Still run great without burning oil.
@@135taz A whole lot LESS friction in today's engines due to different ( fewer ) piston ring set-up...2 compression rings, maybe NO OIL control rings w/scraper.
Dark black gas eng. oil is here to stay.
Oil smells "gassy" too.
Use "SR" oil!
@@135taz they all look like that now. High compression with direct injection. Very similar to a diesel. In fact, particulate filters are being developed for gasoline vehicles.
particulate filters for gasoline???? didn't know that, Are they going to be used in conjunction with catalytic converters?
Those are turbocharged engines they dirty up the oil big time
All of the manufacturers have been using more and more plastic components on their engines for some time. Intake manifolds, valve covers and oil pans etc. It all boils down to cost and weight savings.
right
That get weak and break like all little crappy plastic parts here are the big crappy plastic to break in the vehicle's future.
@@ronpflugrath2712 agreed
The Silverados were doing the plastic drain plugs as well but went back to aluminum for 23. I think enough people made a stink about it.
I change the oring every oil change on my 2018 F150. It leaked the couple times I didn’t.
@@paulfeasal6024 i wish that were true. No, my 2018 has the plasma cylinders. 2017 was the last year for the steel sleeved engine.
@@craigg4246 Frame bending? Plasma cylinders? WTW?
On my 2017 F150 I'm going to be replacing my drain plug every 2 years or so, ever since it cracked during an oil change at the dealer and I arrived home a quart low from the leak. And when I tried to tighten it up the plastic crumbled. So obviously 7 years from manuf date is too long for that part.
Oh man it was leaking from the dealer too bad they didn't catch it
I own some Fords, some of them have ‘Lifetime Fluids’ in things like rear diffs and PTU’s. Lifetime to them means get it past the warranty period. For example I wanted the rear diff oil in my ‘17 AWD Escape changed, the dealer booked the appointment but then wouldn’t do the job when the time came. The service advisor admitted it was a good idea to change it out as one of their maintenance techs had to replace the rear diff in his Escape probably due to oil breakdown, but they wouldn’t do the job and actually directed me to a third party transmission shop to go to. I did it myself in my driveway.
@@squangan I swear they engineer it to break right after the warranty is up
Henry Ford is rolling in he’s grave. Next video will be blower motor 17 escape.
Good idea, thanks
Some people be like "You should warm up the oil and remove the filler cap so it flows out faster." How much time are you really saving?
Yeah not much wait time with this plug
All these companies making everything cheaper, and cheaper.. they probably only pay a few bucks for the metal ones at their cost.
Right
first thing im replacing in new car is oil drain plug....had 2018 Lariat for two years and there was better replacements for them...current 2020 F350 powerstroke got EZ Drain Valve after 2000km :P
I should try that
The plug is plastic because the pan is plastic. You would never want to thread a metal plug into a plastic pan.
that makes sense
Who the hell makes a plastic oil pan? 😂I’d be changing that out real quick!
Right. Don't hit anything
Most cars use them nowadays, alot more than just pans are made if plastic
@@kellismith4329 good to know, it's been a few years since I worked on cars
From reading the comments, some people took the news pretty hard. This new design eliminates the need for the sight amount of skill needed to secure old style drain plugs, plus is cheaper and lighter. Obviously fitting a metal bolt repeatedly into a plastic oil pan isn't real smart, so now you just twist a plastic stopper until it clicks, no new crush washer needed to prevent leaks or any chance of mis threading with this part. On my old car, I went to a dedicated oil change valve to eliminate those same problems. much easier and cleaner.
No over torqued plugs
Plastic weakens over time from the heat cycles
I had a model A Ford that had an aftermarket oil drain petcock valve. It had a ring made into it's handle and you kept a bent piece of steel round stock with you and you just pulled the handle open to drain and shoved it closed when done. Perfect !
Do you think Carole Shelby would allow one of his race cars to have a plastic oil pan on the motor, NOT A CHANCE! THIS IS A FAILURE WAITING TO HAPPEN !
It's going to be interesting to see how they hold up over time
I prefer an aluminum crush washer and 30 ft lbs of torque.
Me too
silicone grease works great on those kind of o ring plastic seals i use it on Toyotas reusable plastic filter housings idiots are always overtightening them.
I like silicone grease. I will never understand why people crank down on something with plastic threads
Just saw same drain plug on 09 Silverado took it out to change the oil
09?? No way
What will they think of next. A plastic crankshaft
Don't say that too loud
dry rot/brittle plastic plug.....smart
plastic oil pan+ plastic drain plug= trouble and a lot of swear words.
when the swear words come out its not good
Next thing you know your engine block will be made out of plastic