I had the same idea for my laptop recently ;-). I ordered a copper pipe with screw connections from aliexpress. This tube can be bent and shaped with little effort. It is then possible to bend the pipe to its desired shape. I will later glue it to my heatsink with a 2 component thermal adhesive.
I love your videos! I’ve done the shunt mod and replaced the TIM with Liquid Metal and your videos are really helpful. I am planing on watercool my laptop too, since I went a little overboard with the shunt mod and I almost double the gpu power draw judging from the readings from the wall. I have a 2020 razer blade basic edition and it actually has a big chunk of empty space right next to the battery. I’m lucky that razer was too lazy to redesign this model to use the space that was previously meant for a sata drive. I plan to file two holes on the chassis and have the water pipe go in and out from there.
10mm copper pipe as used in plumbing is available everywhere and the fittings are standard, fill with sand to prevent it kinking as you shape and flatten it.. or you could go full bore and use 15mm piping it wont bend as easy but you dont have to bend a tight loop if you have the inlet on one side of the laptop and the outlet on the other side if you want full fat performance,
thermal pads,ideal measurements,including a 1mm or so offset ,mod fins, CAD, i tried soldering an old heatsink to another old one to no avail, but buying some tools to avoid plating the sink ... but its relatively easy you will have overall 20+ reduction in temps but you will have to cool your vrms and the other chips near them ,a thermal camera will help save you mobo during early phase testing but a custom sink will cost you a lot if its not part of an already existing solution (/build)
I have ghetto mod liquid cooler pad on my Legion 5 pro. Nothing fancy like here, Just a bunch of Aliexpress CPU blocks attached to the heat pipes with MX-4. It's a 180W 16" slim laptop. I went from thermal throttling (to the point of RAM becoming unstable), to 65°C-ish on both CPU and GPU, and with the pump running at ~7V the whole thing is basically dead silent. And all of it cost less than the spare bottom cover that I bought to eventually replace the one I carved out. 10/10 would recommend.
@@miroslavbulldosex Thanks! I was honestly surprised how well it works for what it is. The best part is there is I didn't have to touch the insides (beyond the thermal paste and the cut out bottom chasis), so I can still pick it up, wipe the goop and pass for a normal laptop on the go. I was also considering carbonaut pads for easier handling, but I don't travel nearly enough to warrant that.
Ive been trying a similar project to this over the last few weeks. I have a full custom loop made for my laptop but after 3 hours of trying to solder the new water pipe to the heatsink just couldn't get them to bond. Tried everything from a heat gun at over 300*c and a propane torch. Eventually I gave up when the solder melted and bonded only to the water pipe and not the heatsink....
Was it the correct solder? You need low temperature solder based on bismuth. The easiest way is to use an infrared heat source like a ceran hot plate. A heat gun is usually a bad idea because you create hot spots which can damage the heatpipes. Check if your flat heatpipes swelled already. If the flat parts rounded a little they are already somewhat damaged. Additionally you need to clean the heatsink before soldering of course. Use IPA and acid to remove the copper corrosion layer. Part 2 goes online on saturday 5pm UTC. Check out if you can take something from it that helps you. I will show a lot of that there.
Asked that myself! Would love to experiment with them. But AFAIK one of them is able to handle 15W only. So dissipating 230W would require at least 15 of them.
@@TechModLab For those laptops with dedicated graphics they don't appear to be useful at all, but the ones with integrated graphics I think there could be some improvements (I got a integrated graphics myself and I'm hoping to see some mods for it).
Digga da hast ja mal voll die scheisse zusammengebastelt, dachte du machst mehr als nur gebrauchte sachen zu nehmen, anstelle davon könntest du komplett von 0 anfangen und direkt voll custom gehen und nicht son useless build hier starten
I had the same idea for my laptop recently ;-). I ordered a copper pipe with screw connections from aliexpress. This tube can be bent and shaped with little effort. It is then possible to bend the pipe to its desired shape. I will later glue it to my heatsink with a 2 component thermal adhesive.
updates?
@@hayemiranda7647 mission failed man, we try again next time!
since this is a project might as well go for the one with the greatest contact area even if some ports may be less usable.
I love your videos! I’ve done the shunt mod and replaced the TIM with Liquid Metal and your videos are really helpful. I am planing on watercool my laptop too, since I went a little overboard with the shunt mod and I almost double the gpu power draw judging from the readings from the wall. I have a 2020 razer blade basic edition and it actually has a big chunk of empty space right next to the battery. I’m lucky that razer was too lazy to redesign this model to use the space that was previously meant for a sata drive. I plan to file two holes on the chassis and have the water pipe go in and out from there.
10mm copper pipe as used in plumbing is available everywhere and the fittings are standard, fill with sand to prevent it kinking as you shape and flatten it.. or you could go full bore and use 15mm piping it wont bend as easy but you dont have to bend a tight loop if you have the inlet on one side of the laptop and the outlet on the other side if you want full fat performance,
amazing! I just subscribed to you yesterday and today you're starting a new exciting project, looking forward to part 2
Nice video! You may use the flanges from oasis and solder them to the aftermarket copper/aluminum pipe, so you can do your design as you wish.
That's the plan :)
Amazing! Can't wait to see part 2
cool project ... I might experiment on my laptop some day and maybe able to bridge the gap to RTX 5000 release
thermal pads,ideal measurements,including a 1mm or so offset ,mod fins, CAD, i tried soldering an old heatsink to another old one to no avail, but buying some tools to avoid plating the sink ...
but its relatively easy you will have overall 20+ reduction in temps
but you will have to cool your vrms and the other chips near them
,a thermal camera will help save you mobo during early phase testing
but a custom sink will cost you a lot if its not part of an already existing solution (/build)
I have ghetto mod liquid cooler pad on my Legion 5 pro. Nothing fancy like here, Just a bunch of Aliexpress CPU blocks attached to the heat pipes with MX-4.
It's a 180W 16" slim laptop. I went from thermal throttling (to the point of RAM becoming unstable), to 65°C-ish on both CPU and GPU, and with the pump running at ~7V the whole thing is basically dead silent. And all of it cost less than the spare bottom cover that I bought to eventually replace the one I carved out.
10/10 would recommend.
dude that's crazy
you make it sound easy but it's quite a feat honestly
@@miroslavbulldosex Thanks!
I was honestly surprised how well it works for what it is. The best part is there is I didn't have to touch the insides (beyond the thermal paste and the cut out bottom chasis), so I can still pick it up, wipe the goop and pass for a normal laptop on the go. I was also considering carbonaut pads for easier handling, but I don't travel nearly enough to warrant that.
I think it would be easier with Llando cooling pad which is the only useful and real cooling pad to me.But a little bit expensive.
alles viel einfacher mit dem Herd👍, und ich musste mit dem Lötbrenner löten🙄, wo waren Sie vor halbes Jahr 🙂, kanal abboniert !, weiter so!
Ja viel einfacher, oder? ;) Flächendeckende Wärme ist auch immer besser als punktuell. Punktuell kann die Heatpipes beschädigen.
i suppose you can extend the usb-C and hdmi port and with a 3d printed "case" to enclose all that extra thingymagic
You're back!
Ive been trying a similar project to this over the last few weeks. I have a full custom loop made for my laptop but after 3 hours of trying to solder the new water pipe to the heatsink just couldn't get them to bond. Tried everything from a heat gun at over 300*c and a propane torch. Eventually I gave up when the solder melted and bonded only to the water pipe and not the heatsink....
Was it the correct solder? You need low temperature solder based on bismuth. The easiest way is to use an infrared heat source like a ceran hot plate. A heat gun is usually a bad idea because you create hot spots which can damage the heatpipes. Check if your flat heatpipes swelled already. If the flat parts rounded a little they are already somewhat damaged.
Additionally you need to clean the heatsink before soldering of course. Use IPA and acid to remove the copper corrosion layer.
Part 2 goes online on saturday 5pm UTC. Check out if you can take something from it that helps you. I will show a lot of that there.
i wonder if the new Airjets coolers will be usable for modding laptops
Asked that myself! Would love to experiment with them. But AFAIK one of them is able to handle 15W only. So dissipating 230W would require at least 15 of them.
@@TechModLab For those laptops with dedicated graphics they don't appear to be useful at all, but the ones with integrated graphics I think there could be some improvements (I got a integrated graphics myself and I'm hoping to see some mods for it).
I love your videos there so fun to watch
what size are the quick connects ?
Hola ! Que enchufes usas para que no salga el agua ?
Afaik they are called "NW 2.7" and are originally made for airbrushs. They only seal one side though
Klasse Content.
Part 2 !
Tomorrow!
yess
Wo ist das nächste Video ?
Gibt's morgen
Разогни их друг ;) Можно аккуратно выгнуть засыпав песка, изменив форму ;) Привет из матушки россии кста=}
Digga da hast ja mal voll die scheisse zusammengebastelt, dachte du machst mehr als nur gebrauchte sachen zu nehmen, anstelle davon könntest du komplett von 0 anfangen und direkt voll custom gehen und nicht son useless build hier starten