Been tracking this journey from Reddit. Way to get the full performance you paid for! For gaming it's unreal to see you're getting a 20-30% increase. Goes to show how much headroom is left out on these laptops. Would be dope to see a bit more about how you're cooling the power brick after shunt mod, and if the temps and power can hold steady after say, an hour of video rendering. I'm sure you're totally on top of that already though.
The asus brick is honestly a tank. The only game I have that consistently puts up 250-270w on the GPU is Metro Exodus and it sustained that through a whole play through. The Dead Space Remake will pull 190-200w on the GPU and 70-80 CPU and that didnt have an issue either. The brick gets warm, but not noticeably more than stock. I have been getting tempted by Slim Q chargers recently to see how they do though.
Thanks for sharing this mod is quite good-looking and very functional might not be the best for transportation but is a trade you have to take. Thanks again
So the main thing I have been wondering with this build is how you detach the block from the liquid cooling loop without liquid spilling everywhere, is there some kind of mechanism in the sockets that keeps most if not all of the liquid contained?
Yep! The connectors are called 'quick disconnects' or 'dry break fittings'. These ones are made by Koolance but there are plenty out there. They have a spring loaded plunger on either fitting that is pushed into place when disconnected to block liquid from coming out.
if you want to watercool any kind of heatpipe the best way is to not do it directly over die, but at least 1-2cm off center of die, that way the liquid/vapor transfer can work at its best
This isnt intended to use the vapor. The heat is going to the heatsink and then into the cold plate mounted directly to it. The liquid doesnt really need to condense and expand unless it is running on air cooling. It treats the heatsink as an IHS on a desktop CPU in a way. You could absolutely put the cold plate somewhere else on it but then you’re dealing with more mods to the laptop’s case and potentially more points of failure depending on how you run it.
Dude, you are the GOAT! Thanks for sharing your insights. I'm inspired to try this with the Barrow RAM Block on my ASUS G15 Advantage Edition (2021), which is thermal throttling at 95/99 degrees C on the CPU/GPU (Hotspot). Might need to wait until my next paycheck 😅, but I'm hoping to try a lower budget version of what you've achieved.
The biggest thing you could save money on from mine because the reservoir. You can get reservoir and pump kids on Amazon for $50. I would not try a radiator smaller than 240 mm I highly recommend putting up the extra money for the Phanteks T30s. You could also save a lot on different quick disconnects. The Koolance connectors that I used are amazing and lose almost no fluid but are very expensive. Do keep in mind, for that water block you’ll need to cut the ends of the acrylic. I tried to get it so that where the screws are supposed to go when going on a desktop was flushed with the rest of the chamber. Be very careful when you’re removing material though because that is where the O-ring sits and if you damage that it will leak. It would also be worth trying to double check if it will fit before starting the process. You can get any kind of putty and put it on top of the heat sink and then put the lower case cover on to see how much it squishes down. It would be a huge bummer to start the process and then find out that the cover won’t be able to go on with the water block in the way. You want about 3 to 3.5 mm of space .
While completely awesome, I feel like with the added overall space the device takes up, you could probably make a really beefy air cooled setup that works similarly well. I wonder if one of the alphacool or EK sever blocks with ports on the side could lower the profile a bit. Given your CAD skills, I bet you could design something that would significantly reduce the profile, although customer machining is expensive... Also, I bet this would be amazing on a laptop with a vapor chamber.
A vapor chamber makes a huge difference. Another guy I know has a legion with the entire thing covered in blocks and putty and he gets like 50* peak. Albeit he is running a 3070 so it is way less wattage to cool.
Can you please help me out to try to do this on my dell g15 5515 Ryzen edition.... I'm not into pc modding but this sounds like the perfect project to start
Thankfully all that was needed was sanding down the top of the cold plate to have it not be such a tight fit with the lower case cover. The issue was that the gab between the case cover and heatsink (on the inside) is about 3mm while the Iceman cold plate was 4.3mm. Before sanding it down the case cover couldn't seat fully and flexed a lot.
It is super simple, if you check out my last two videos I show it better. There is just a hole in the bottom cover for the water chamber, but not the cold plate edges. This makes it so the cover presses the cold plate onto the heatsink. There is thermal paste between the two.
That block looks like it would work because it seems to have a mostly flat cold plate. However, because the water chamber is almost completely flush with the cold plate, with the exception of the corners, mounting it would be difficult.
iirc it is 120mm x 80mm x 16mm. The one I used doesn't have dimensions listed on the product page for some reason but is close to the others they have for the AMD SP5 socket.
Most newer laptops shouldn't be an issue but the suppliers will vary. For mine, I have gotten two from www.a-accessories.com/ and they have been flawless each time.
Im more than happy to answer any questions for making it but am not open to commission because of the cost and risk of it. My full build cost just shy of $1000 and I can't offer any kind of support for if anything were to ever leak and damage someone's laptop.
Ye. If you check out my other videos I show hooking it up with dry break quick connects and compare the air cooling to the water cooling. Obvs it is heavier now, but I take it with me to work every day just about, without the radiator though.
@@zayedhussain6609 Because of the cost Im very hesitant to do any commissions. I cant offer any kind of protection for someone else's laptop and just the parts I used alone cost around $8-900. Cheaper parts can be used but it won't work quite as well.
You can underclock the CPU on most if not all laptops. If you mean undervolting, that is possible on the 13980hx and the 12th gen hx CPU, but is not possible for the non hx chips as far as I know. You can unlock it by hacking the BIOS on 10 & 11th gen CPU. The GPU can be overclocked on all laptops, again, as far as I know, but the wattage and voltage are hardware limited.
Been tracking this journey from Reddit. Way to get the full performance you paid for! For gaming it's unreal to see you're getting a 20-30% increase. Goes to show how much headroom is left out on these laptops.
Would be dope to see a bit more about how you're cooling the power brick after shunt mod, and if the temps and power can hold steady after say, an hour of video rendering. I'm sure you're totally on top of that already though.
The asus brick is honestly a tank. The only game I have that consistently puts up 250-270w on the GPU is Metro Exodus and it sustained that through a whole play through. The Dead Space Remake will pull 190-200w on the GPU and 70-80 CPU and that didnt have an issue either. The brick gets warm, but not noticeably more than stock. I have been getting tempted by Slim Q chargers recently to see how they do though.
Thanks for sharing this mod is quite good-looking and very functional might not be the best for transportation but is a trade you have to take. Thanks again
Humans like yourself are a true blessing.
Thank you!
So the main thing I have been wondering with this build is how you detach the block from the liquid cooling loop without liquid spilling everywhere, is there some kind of mechanism in the sockets that keeps most if not all of the liquid contained?
Yep! The connectors are called 'quick disconnects' or 'dry break fittings'. These ones are made by Koolance but there are plenty out there. They have a spring loaded plunger on either fitting that is pushed into place when disconnected to block liquid from coming out.
if you want to watercool any kind of heatpipe the best way is to not do it directly over die, but at least 1-2cm off center of die, that way the liquid/vapor transfer can work at its best
This isnt intended to use the vapor. The heat is going to the heatsink and then into the cold plate mounted directly to it. The liquid doesnt really need to condense and expand unless it is running on air cooling. It treats the heatsink as an IHS on a desktop CPU in a way. You could absolutely put the cold plate somewhere else on it but then you’re dealing with more mods to the laptop’s case and potentially more points of failure depending on how you run it.
Why don't manufacturers make high-end laptops fully water-cooled? The tests clearly show that the temperatures are very acceptable.
Because laptops are for portability, and such watercooler as the xmg laptop is not much portable.
Dude, you are the GOAT! Thanks for sharing your insights. I'm inspired to try this with the Barrow RAM Block on my ASUS G15 Advantage Edition (2021), which is thermal throttling at 95/99 degrees C on the CPU/GPU (Hotspot). Might need to wait until my next paycheck 😅, but I'm hoping to try a lower budget version of what you've achieved.
The biggest thing you could save money on from mine because the reservoir. You can get reservoir and pump kids on Amazon for $50. I would not try a radiator smaller than 240 mm I highly recommend putting up the extra money for the Phanteks T30s. You could also save a lot on different quick disconnects. The Koolance connectors that I used are amazing and lose almost no fluid but are very expensive.
Do keep in mind, for that water block you’ll need to cut the ends of the acrylic. I tried to get it so that where the screws are supposed to go when going on a desktop was flushed with the rest of the chamber. Be very careful when you’re removing material though because that is where the O-ring sits and if you damage that it will leak.
It would also be worth trying to double check if it will fit before starting the process. You can get any kind of putty and put it on top of the heat sink and then put the lower case cover on to see how much it squishes down. It would be a huge bummer to start the process and then find out that the cover won’t be able to go on with the water block in the way. You want about 3 to 3.5 mm of space .
lets go i've been waiting for this video
This mod is insane bro
While completely awesome, I feel like with the added overall space the device takes up, you could probably make a really beefy air cooled setup that works similarly well. I wonder if one of the alphacool or EK sever blocks with ports on the side could lower the profile a bit. Given your CAD skills, I bet you could design something that would significantly reduce the profile, although customer machining is expensive...
Also, I bet this would be amazing on a laptop with a vapor chamber.
A vapor chamber makes a huge difference. Another guy I know has a legion with the entire thing covered in blocks and putty and he gets like 50* peak. Albeit he is running a 3070 so it is way less wattage to cool.
Can you please help me out to try to do this on my dell g15 5515 Ryzen edition.... I'm not into pc modding but this sounds like the perfect project to start
Nice ideas bro
That's really cool! How did you mod that bigger block? Any more detailed info?
Thankfully all that was needed was sanding down the top of the cold plate to have it not be such a tight fit with the lower case cover. The issue was that the gab between the case cover and heatsink (on the inside) is about 3mm while the Iceman cold plate was 4.3mm. Before sanding it down the case cover couldn't seat fully and flexed a lot.
I thought that you had to drill something also. Maybe I will test that barrow block because I am not so good to craft things @sloreo8278
New models have extra plate top of heatpipe. Makes cooling less efficient. Damn
Do you think i could mount the heatkiller iv pro for threadripper with thick foam tape taped to the sides of the block?
How are you mounting the block to the laptop heatsink? Is it soldered together or did you figure out a way for them to share the same mounting holes?
It is super simple, if you check out my last two videos I show it better. There is just a hole in the bottom cover for the water chamber, but not the cold plate edges. This makes it so the cover presses the cold plate onto the heatsink. There is thermal paste between the two.
Hey do you have pictures of how you soldered the pwm and sata connectors to the power supply?
Hi, for clarification, are the feet 3d-printed and attached somehow to the original bottom cover, right?
@@hoangviet-nc2of hello, yes the feet are 3d printed and mounted with plastiweld.
no photo or video of your mod and how you made your mod??
@@gab882 uh... I have multiple videos and this literally opens showing the water block?
Would a heatkiller iv pro for threadripper be able to fit? I think it will
That block looks like it would work because it seems to have a mostly flat cold plate. However, because the water chamber is almost completely flush with the cold plate, with the exception of the corners, mounting it would be difficult.
@@sloreo8278 alright thanks for letting me know
@@sloreo8278 Also do you have a picture of how you soldered those connectors to the power supply?
I like this mod. It is great. Can you tell me the dimension of the iceman water block?
iirc it is 120mm x 80mm x 16mm. The one I used doesn't have dimensions listed on the product page for some reason but is close to the others they have for the AMD SP5 socket.
Wondering if back plate laptop is purchasable, so we can back to normal again.
Most newer laptops shouldn't be an issue but the suppliers will vary. For mine, I have gotten two from www.a-accessories.com/ and they have been flawless each time.
i assume you're using a pwm splitter for the fans?
The T30s are able to be Daisy chained so I just have them all run together.
Hi can you help me to do this I want it full build just plug and play can we manage that ?
Im more than happy to answer any questions for making it but am not open to commission because of the cost and risk of it. My full build cost just shy of $1000 and I can't offer any kind of support for if anything were to ever leak and damage someone's laptop.
Is it still portable 🗿?
Ye. If you check out my other videos I show hooking it up with dry break quick connects and compare the air cooling to the water cooling. Obvs it is heavier now, but I take it with me to work every day just about, without the radiator though.
@@sloreo8278what do I think about XMG laptops that comes with water cooler radiator?
Are they as efficient as ur laptop?
is you mobile GPU draws 200+ watts while playing metro exodus? or am I seeing it wrong? LOL
It is! it pulls up to 270w. I did a shunt mod on it a while ago which is why the first dead space clip it caps at 130w and in the second it is 175w.
I am really interested in this laptop water cooler and i want to purchase it
Is there any chance bro?
@@zayedhussain6609 Because of the cost Im very hesitant to do any commissions. I cant offer any kind of protection for someone else's laptop and just the parts I used alone cost around $8-900. Cheaper parts can be used but it won't work quite as well.
U can underclock the CPU and overclock the GPU?
You can underclock the CPU on most if not all laptops. If you mean undervolting, that is possible on the 13980hx and the 12th gen hx CPU, but is not possible for the non hx chips as far as I know. You can unlock it by hacking the BIOS on 10 & 11th gen CPU.
The GPU can be overclocked on all laptops, again, as far as I know, but the wattage and voltage are hardware limited.