Oh boy! Where were u all this time ? But all in all u are right on time,nothin ever comes to late as long as u are alive. learning is always there to take in . Well said! U are just hilarious 😅 at the end thank u my there.
Hi im having a problem with fitting a coat which i believe is to do with the shoulders. Essentially the front edge seems to open up instead of sitting closed on the front (A single button coat) From my understanding i need to straighten the neckpoint and drop the front side of the shoulder. However it doesnt seem to have the effect i hope. The collar seems to be sitting tightly and well on the neck. Is there something im missing 😅
Unfortunately, I can not give corrective instructions based on a written description. But your problem sounds like a balance issue. If you fit your work with the proper construction lines in place and visible, you can use them as guides so that each change brings the construction lines closer to their proper final place. Reza
Hi, another very informative and pleasing lession. Thank you for your hard working and kindly sharing. Just one question. You said the "ideal"shoulder seam position is the line connecting acromion with the midpoint of the neck. Well, the acomion part is easy to understand, but why "the mid point of the neck"? Is it for a aesthetic purpose or functional purpose? I thought it would be "the lowest pit between acomion and neck" or "the highest point on upper trapezius muscles" since it should be located at the most convex point or the most concave point so the shoulder seams can follow or "accentuate" the shoulders. I noticed some bespoke tailors, like Anderson & Sheppard, not only slant shoulder seams far back moving the outside point, they also move the inside point or shorten the back neck (the measurement between the centre seam of the coat and the shoulder seam along the neck seam). This results a small back neck (3 inches) as Anderson & Sheppard said, and other jackets I measure have much larger back neck (some have almost 4 inches). Which means the inside shoulder-seam points of typical Anderson & Sheppard jackets sit on the most highest point of trapezius muscles. And interestingly, the back neck measurements seem to be applied quite uniformly within a brand or tailor shop no matter how big the garment size is. How long should the back neck be or how should the inside shoulder-seam points be located? What are the factors affecting the back neck measurements?
You're welcome Cardell. You ask very good questions. Thank you. Why mid point of the neck: On average, the line between the middle of the neck and the acromion marks the apex of the entire shoulder (including the trapezius muscle. It is the safest starting point for most figures. It also gives a shoulder seam placement that is aesthetically in line with the overall shoulder direction. IMPORTANT: The shoulder area is not just defined by the trapezius muscle. The entire shoulder includes the neck, trapezius, clavicle, scapula, deltoid and upper chest. When we say the middle of the shoulder or its apex, we mean the entire area, all parts considered. Of course, there are variations and severe cases where this isn't so and one can deviate from this standard seam placement. On the back neck: The 3" back neck is a nonsensical myth. And I say this with due respect for the tailors at A&S and on scientific ground. What matters is not the width of the back neck but the width of the entire neck circle. The entire neck circle must be as close to the neck as possible. So that when you pull the shoulders away from each other, the collar doesn't move to create gaps between it and the wearers neck. Tailor's adhere to all sorts of measures and shapes to simplify their production. They sometimes do to this differentiate themselves in the context of marketing (we are those who do a 3" back neck, whatever that means to the client who can't judge the technical meaning of it). Some templates are formed because the tailor's didn't find a better way of doing it. For example, round backs with prominent blades tend to cause surplus material below and around the armhole. So naturally, to fix this, tailors pick up the back shoulder point to get rid of this excess. However, the back shoulder is THE determining factor for where your shoulder seam will sit. The lower the angle, the further back, the higher the angle, the more forward. So, the more you pick up the back shoulder, the lower its angle and thus the further back it will sit on the body. And since most people have blades and round backs, tailors keep picking up the back shoulder and end with a "working fix" which as a by product, places the shoulder seam further back. It's good to distinguish by products and direct and intentional corrections, placements and shapes. Hope this helps a bit. Reza
This is awesome. I love your channel and your explanations. Have you ever thought about getting a perfectly fitted, tailor made shirt/jacket and a generic sized one and given a side by side critique of the differences in things suhc as seam placement, fit etc? I would love to see it as I think it would help me appreciate the differences in well-made garments vs not well-made garments. Thanks!
Thank you for tuning in! Check out our next project and our latest lesson. It is and will be in line with what you are talking about: www.internationalschooloftailoring.com/fund-the-free-alterations-library Reza
Been waiting for this one! I always have trouble with shoulders. I'm curious: would these principles apply to shirts as well? i.e., can you create negative surface curves using stretching on a garment that will be routinely washed and dried, or does that moisture and heat undo the stretching?
These principles most definitely apply to shirts as well. Though you’ll have more limitations in terms of construction, it is still applicable. Negative surface curves can be created on garments that are routinely washed. Reza
I enjoy seeing your vision unfold, great stuff!
Thank you Matthew!
Reza
Oh boy! Where were u all this time ? But all in all u are right on time,nothin ever comes to late as long as u are alive. learning is always there to take in . Well said! U are just hilarious 😅 at the end thank u my there.
Now you found me, I’m here forever :)
Reza
I loved it when you called what you offered us "The Alphabet of Tailoring".
Awesome Reza 👌
Excellent Video Sir 🙌
This is brilliant
Hi im having a problem with fitting a coat which i believe is to do with the shoulders. Essentially the front edge seems to open up instead of sitting closed on the front (A single button coat) From my understanding i need to straighten the neckpoint and drop the front side of the shoulder. However it doesnt seem to have the effect i hope. The collar seems to be sitting tightly and well on the neck. Is there something im missing 😅
Unfortunately, I can not give corrective instructions based on a written description.
But your problem sounds like a balance issue. If you fit your work with the proper construction lines in place and visible, you can use them as guides so that each change brings the construction lines closer to their proper final place.
Reza
"I want you to be a poet. Own your words and tell your story in the way you want to tell it." Yes.
Exactly!
Reza
Thanks Reza.
HERE WE GO
Hi, another very informative and pleasing lession. Thank you for your hard working and kindly sharing.
Just one question. You said the "ideal"shoulder seam position is the line connecting acromion with the midpoint of the neck. Well, the acomion part is easy to understand, but why "the mid point of the neck"? Is it for a aesthetic purpose or functional purpose? I thought it would be "the lowest pit between acomion and neck" or "the highest point on upper trapezius muscles" since it should be located at the most convex point or the most concave point so the shoulder seams can follow or "accentuate" the shoulders.
I noticed some bespoke tailors, like Anderson & Sheppard, not only slant shoulder seams far back moving the outside point, they also move the inside point or shorten the back neck (the measurement between the centre seam of the coat and the shoulder seam along the neck seam). This results a small back neck (3 inches) as Anderson & Sheppard said, and other jackets I measure have much larger back neck (some have almost 4 inches). Which means the inside shoulder-seam points of typical Anderson & Sheppard jackets sit on the most highest point of trapezius muscles. And interestingly, the back neck measurements seem to be applied quite uniformly within a brand or tailor shop no matter how big the garment size is. How long should the back neck be or how should the inside shoulder-seam points be located? What are the factors affecting the back neck measurements?
You're welcome Cardell.
You ask very good questions. Thank you.
Why mid point of the neck:
On average, the line between the middle of the neck and the acromion marks the apex of the entire shoulder (including the trapezius muscle. It is the safest starting point for most figures. It also gives a shoulder seam placement that is aesthetically in line with the overall shoulder direction.
IMPORTANT:
The shoulder area is not just defined by the trapezius muscle. The entire shoulder includes the neck, trapezius, clavicle, scapula, deltoid and upper chest. When we say the middle of the shoulder or its apex, we mean the entire area, all parts considered.
Of course, there are variations and severe cases where this isn't so and one can deviate from this standard seam placement.
On the back neck:
The 3" back neck is a nonsensical myth. And I say this with due respect for the tailors at A&S and on scientific ground. What matters is not the width of the back neck but the width of the entire neck circle.
The entire neck circle must be as close to the neck as possible. So that when you pull the shoulders away from each other, the collar doesn't move to create gaps between it and the wearers neck.
Tailor's adhere to all sorts of measures and shapes to simplify their production. They sometimes do to this differentiate themselves in the context of marketing (we are those who do a 3" back neck, whatever that means to the client who can't judge the technical meaning of it). Some templates are formed because the tailor's didn't find a better way of doing it.
For example, round backs with prominent blades tend to cause surplus material below and around the armhole. So naturally, to fix this, tailors pick up the back shoulder point to get rid of this excess. However, the back shoulder is THE determining factor for where your shoulder seam will sit. The lower the angle, the further back, the higher the angle, the more forward.
So, the more you pick up the back shoulder, the lower its angle and thus the further back it will sit on the body.
And since most people have blades and round backs, tailors keep picking up the back shoulder and end with a "working fix" which as a by product, places the shoulder seam further back.
It's good to distinguish by products and direct and intentional corrections, placements and shapes.
Hope this helps a bit.
Reza
This is awesome. I love your channel and your explanations. Have you ever thought about getting a perfectly fitted, tailor made shirt/jacket and a generic sized one and given a side by side critique of the differences in things suhc as seam placement, fit etc?
I would love to see it as I think it would help me appreciate the differences in well-made garments vs not well-made garments.
Thanks!
Thank you for tuning in!
Check out our next project and our latest lesson. It is and will be in line with what you are talking about:
www.internationalschooloftailoring.com/fund-the-free-alterations-library
Reza
Fantastic as always! All this knowledge came 15\20 years too late for me unfortunately 😔
"It's not a penis for God's sake" I laughed out loud 😊 Also your floating alien head...love watching you ❤
Been waiting for this one! I always have trouble with shoulders. I'm curious: would these principles apply to shirts as well? i.e., can you create negative surface curves using stretching on a garment that will be routinely washed and dried, or does that moisture and heat undo the stretching?
These principles most definitely apply to shirts as well. Though you’ll have more limitations in terms of construction, it is still applicable.
Negative surface curves can be created on garments that are routinely washed.
Reza
18:46 loooool
Don’t hide it! :)
Reza
خیلی خوب موضوعات بدیع وجدیدمیدید حیف که زبان فارسی نیست ،قسمت کمی شو میفهمم هرچند که خیلی از کلمات روازحرکت دستها ولحن بیان تون متوجه میشم.🎉موفق باشید
خیلی خوب موضوعات بدیع وجدیدمیدید حیف که زبان فارسی نیست ،قسمت کمی شو میفهمم هرچند که خیلی از کلمات روازحرکت دستها ولحن بیان تون متوجه میشم.🎉موفق باشید