You really have such a natural way of demystifying tailoring! I was actually quite demotivated to going back to some of my projects due to stagnation. But you really rekindled the fire 🔥 I noticed you mentioned in your shoulder theory video that historical shoulder seams can lay further to back. I am actually currently working on a early 1920s 3 piece suit snd was wondering whether or not the technique you show here are appropriate to such a different placement of the seam. The instructions my period sources are, let's say cryptic 😅
How nice that you have found your motivation again! If your shoulder seam is that far back as in the historical jackets, it's perfectly fine to sew them flat. I would not stretch anything. Eventually, it's all dependant on whether you're dealing with a positive or negative surface curve. That is the principle you must always try to verify. Positive and Negative terms are explained in Lesson 14 - Darts & Wedges. Reza
The work you are doing is stunning, it is that well explained and detailed that looks like anyone with no experience could do it, but at the same time you could make a very experience tailor learn a lot. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge ❤❤
Even though you say that we shouldn’t worry too much about the pattern because we don’t know how to draft it yet, i thought i understood by watching your videos that the sewing lines were a 1/2 inch in from the paper pattern edges as a general rule. Knowing that, i dont understand why the pattern line at the shoulder dont directly follow this rule and we have to re mark a new pattern line from the original one in order to find our sewing line. Do we need more sewing allowance in weird ways in the center of the shoulder ? Isn’t it easier/less confusing to incorporate it in the inlay ? I hope i make sense, this is a lot for me to write in english. Lots of love
I know you spoke about this in the videos but then I don't understand why you add 1 cm on your stitching line again ,can you please explain these to me
Am I the only person attempting to refit this jacket for a friend? I’d like to learn how to draft the initial jacket pattern. Will you be giving a course on drafting?
I do not recommend doing that if you are using our pattern. It will ruin your learning experience. There will be a module on drafting and fitting. Reza
By proper fold line you mean the mark stitches? If yes, that's because the mark stitches represent the edge of the pattern and not the actual sewing line. Reza
Dear Sir, One question has troubled me from the time you started sewing this jacket. Why have you not machine-sewn the same? Though, I should admit that your sewing and the stitch length are so perfect that, they add beauty to the jacket.
I will machine sew and finish the jacket in module 2. We are currently working on that module. This is just a baste fitting. You must know how to baste a garment if you want to fit it. Reza
Sir Raza you are very brilliant teacher ❤
You really have such a natural way of demystifying tailoring! I was actually quite demotivated to going back to some of my projects due to stagnation. But you really rekindled the fire 🔥
I noticed you mentioned in your shoulder theory video that historical shoulder seams can lay further to back. I am actually currently working on a early 1920s 3 piece suit snd was wondering whether or not the technique you show here are appropriate to such a different placement of the seam.
The instructions my period sources are, let's say cryptic 😅
How nice that you have found your motivation again!
If your shoulder seam is that far back as in the historical jackets, it's perfectly fine to sew them flat. I would not stretch anything.
Eventually, it's all dependant on whether you're dealing with a positive or negative surface curve. That is the principle you must always try to verify.
Positive and Negative terms are explained in Lesson 14 - Darts & Wedges.
Reza
Thank you Raza your instructional videos are priceless. Thank you
You're such a brilliant teacher. The illustrations, logic, reasoning; you are good. Real excellence Reza.
Thank you Oraine. You’re very kind.
Reza
Absolutely Beautiful Mr. Reza. The stretching work resulted in fabulous shaping for the neck and shoulders. 🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤
I'm very happy about that!
Enjoy:)
The work you are doing is stunning, it is that well explained and detailed that looks like anyone with no experience could do it, but at the same time you could make a very experience tailor learn a lot.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge ❤❤
That’s exactly our goal! Thank you for tuning in David :)
Reza
Now are days there is no excuse to learn thank a lot
Tack!
Thank you for the Super Thanks Johannes!🙏 We hope you are enjoying the lessons:)
Thank you so much.
Thanks Reza.
Que bien maestro. Saludos desde Perú ❤
Thanks!
Thank you for the Super Thanks Gemma🙏 We hope you are enjoying the lessons :)
great video, thanks a lot,
one question please:
@47:13 you run this stich only throught the fabric not throught the canvas too, right?
Yes. Only the fabric.
Reza
This is completely different from what I saw around so far. Challenging!
Even though you say that we shouldn’t worry too much about the pattern because we don’t know how to draft it yet, i thought i understood by watching your videos that the sewing lines were a 1/2 inch in from the paper pattern edges as a general rule. Knowing that, i dont understand why the pattern line at the shoulder dont directly follow this rule and we have to re mark a new pattern line from the original one in order to find our sewing line. Do we need more sewing allowance in weird ways in the center of the shoulder ? Isn’t it easier/less confusing to incorporate it in the inlay ? I hope i make sense, this is a lot for me to write in english.
Lots of love
Nice
I know you spoke about this in the videos but then I don't understand why you add 1 cm on your stitching line again ,can you please explain these to me
First one😊😊
Am I the only person attempting to refit this jacket for a friend? I’d like to learn how to draft the initial jacket pattern. Will you be giving a course on drafting?
I do not recommend doing that if you are using our pattern. It will ruin your learning experience.
There will be a module on drafting and fitting.
Reza
Thank you for your prompt reply. I look forward to the drafting course.
Why do you baste a seam in at the shoulder at 21:30, instead of at the proper fold line?
By proper fold line you mean the mark stitches? If yes, that's because the mark stitches represent the edge of the pattern and not the actual sewing line.
Reza
Dear Sir,
One question has troubled me from the time you started sewing this jacket. Why have you not machine-sewn the same? Though, I should admit that your sewing and the stitch length are so perfect that, they add beauty to the jacket.
I will machine sew and finish the jacket in module 2. We are currently working on that module. This is just a baste fitting. You must know how to baste a garment if you want to fit it.
Reza
@@OFFICIALISOT Thanks a much, Sir!!