All Grain Mashing Tips for Best Efficiency, Consistency, Yield - Beer Brewing Live | Q&A
Вставка
- Опубліковано 11 лип 2020
- All Grain Brewing tips to get higher efficiency and a better mash yield when homebrewing beer. We run down a bunch of tips and answer questions about mashing in today's live stream, and also talk Genus News and American Amber ales for our beer of the week!
Our individual Instas:
Peter:
/ genusbeermiler
/ growingupmcarthur
Logan:
/ genussquatch
Tim:
/ genusdangerboots
Find us on Social Media!
/ genusbrewing
/ nuhomebrew
vm.tiktok.com/VwUAbt/
Send us Beer if you want it Reviewed!
17018 E Sprague Ave Unit 101
Greenacres, Wa. 99016 - Навчання та стиль
19:05 Mash temperature - usual target 145 F (63 C). Add chit or oats if more body is needed.
32:34 Q&A
You just saved me a LOT of work. I have been stirring fairly continuously during the mashing process.
Thank you guys, all the new content has been great. The comprehensiveness of the topic today is also very appreciated.
Thank you guys! Great job keeping things simple and educational!
Another great video. Thank you!
Love the material guys. Keep on brewing.
70 deg f is 21.1 Celsius. Love this Channel. Keep up the good work
So glad I watched this before I brewed this weekend...so helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
I love the bromance that is going on :-) keep it up, great videos!
Love your input on cooler mash tun efficiency after my last comment on it. Can I share my opinion on this?
1. Still standing by my last statement favoring cooler mash tuns but I totally agree that fly sparge is inefficient unless you drill the outlet at the center of the bottom, requiring you to put the mash tun on a hollow frame stand, which is really efficient even with regular water inputs. Batch sparge is extremely efficient when you take time to stir and varlauf the grain bill properly. The entire assembly costs you peanuts compared to the expensive equipment in the race. The additional benefit being you are never going to scorch your grains by mashing on flame, rice hulls work, decoctions are a breeze, no lifting of heavy grain bags, no uneven temperatures - blind spots.
2. Rice hulls. Never had a clogging issue with them in my past 22 years of brewing so I don't understand what you guys are talking about! Also they are favored by the homebrewing legends, they do a great job if you use them the way intended. It's not always just about beta-glucans it also stops that finer malt debris/material which is a bigger problem, that clogs ups and muddles your beer. Hulls will stop them. Always. In my experience.
3. Coming to my original argument. The expensive equipment is unnecessary. It only fills the pockets of people who make it and who endorse it. Except for the keg assembly - you absolutely need that for brewing certain styles. This one stems from the Brew-in-a-bag pseudo-revolution. And it's a falsehood IMHO. The truth will come out sooner or later. Hope not too late.
I absolutely love 99.99% of your videos. Especially your argument against Chrystal malts. I have been carrying that opinion for over 15 years and happy to see you guys agree on that. Love the intricate scientific knowledge you guys share. I hope my disagreements on one single subject won't harm the channel because I absolutely love Peter and Logan. Logan more with the beard :)
Such a shame I missed this one. I brewed a 12% stout not 2 days after this stream. I did do quite a few of your suggestions instinctively though, like making a second runnings beer. These streams are quite the resource.
your extra wort chiller is your HERMS, awesome. dig it.
This is very informative; thank you for making this content!
I had a question about fly sparging: you say it should take you about an hour, but my wort drains much quicker than that out of the bottom of brewzilla malt pipe. Does this recommended one hour only apply to those who have the ability to control the speed at which you pull wort from the mash tun?
I use plastic 10 gallon cooler with brew bag. Batch sparging every brew session and my mash efficiency is above 80% all day. No false bottom for me, and get all my wort.
What bag?
@@bahaasTube www.brewinabag.com/products/the-brew-bag-for-coolers
if my efficiency is lower than expected ill just add a bit of dme to reach og, small batches.
I loooooooooove cara veinna.
Beta Amylase begins to denature at 149 degrees Fahrenheit.
Another technique to maximize efficiency? A Reiterated mash. It involves splitting the grain in half by weight, mashing the first, taking the wort from the first batch, and using the wort to mash and sparge the second batch. As long as you don't raise the mash to enzyme killing temperatures, it improves the efficiency of the second batch too. Step mash both batches, and you can squeeze a lot more points out of the grain. I once squeezed another percentage point of ABV out of pilsner malt using this technique in a normal lager batch. The down side is that one spends all day mashing. It is also a way to tackle mashing humongous amounts of grain in big beers. Chris Colby wrote a series of articles on the process. See beerandwinejournal.com/reiterated-mashing-1/
Great video lots of interesting info as always...one question if you don’t mind, sparge water does this need to be below 6PH? Thanks
In most cases it wont matter - butbif you're super sparging (which you shouldn't have much reason to do it isnt a bad idea to pre-acidify the sparge water)
Cheers
Volume on the low side but great content !!!
Thanks!
What is a reasonable efficiency target for 10 gal (8% abv ) IPA using dual mash tun coolers?
With cooler mash tun batch sparking any preference to false bottom -vs- bazooka tube ?? What is ideal temp for 2nd batch run ??
Motueka over galaxy. Galaxy smells great out of the bag, but motueka always smells great in the beer.
Sooo, when can we get some podcast action?
Any enzyme links to drop Imperial IPA and how much to add per 10 gal batch??
I actually have a problem with too high of efficiency. I calculate my recipes at 72-75% brew house efficiency but end up with closer to 78-80%. A beer I planned on being 6.5-7% ends up being 7.5-8%. Not the worst problem to have, but I would imagine it throws off the balance of malt and hops the finished beer due to the higher sugar/alcohol content. One thing of note is that when my OG is higher than anticipated, my FG is always spot on to the calculator.
Was the New Zealand hop the 107?
Separate Beta Glucans. Hilarious!!! You guys make up stuff as you go on.
HI im from argentina and started watching your videos, I fermented a porter using lallemand yeast and when i realized temperature rose to ( 75 F) Suggested temp is up to 71 . I lowered temp to 65 F overnight ( i dont have a controlled environment) . Its been 36 hours since i started fermenting. Started very vigorously but actually airlock is barely working. Did I fucked up or do I still have a chance to have a nice beer? Thanks !
Should still be ok but might have made some slight off flavors. Which yeast did you use?
@@GenusBrewing Lallemand windsor . Optimal temp range 59 / 71 .
So you mash all beer styles at 145?
Great Video but sound is very low, hard to listen too on laptop even with volume maxed out and headphones.
Herbal is the word you’re looking for.