I have an Ender3 v2, bought in May, at the time I would not have watched a video like this, but you do a great job of explaining how to adjust settings for my printer, looking forward to trying some of this gcode editing. Thanks for sharing, just subscribed.
I wanted to modify the gcode for my Prusa Mk3S but didn't know where to start. This was an excellent video that taught me what I needed to know. Thank you very much.
Another reason for heating up the bed fully first and only then heating up the nozzle is to allow the heat to fully get through the bed. I have glass on my bed and the heater and thermostat are the bottom of the heat bed. Giving it that extra minute while separately heating the nozzle means the temperature is more consistent throughout the bed by the time I print - especially for that first layer. Here patience does have a virtue! Great video and keep up the good work.
Chris, another very detailed fantastic video. One thing I might add to your Prusa setting is add this to the Before layer change G-code ;LAYER:[layer_num] This will inset the comment ;LAYER number to the gcode. It is very useful if you a are running Octoprint
Just wanted to mention that for Machine Limits (39:13) on newer PrusaSlicer 2.3.0 and above, there is an option "How to apply limits" at the top. This option allows PrusaSlicer to either emit the limits into the GCODE and to calculate the print time (needs to match limits imposed in Marlin firmware) or to entirely ignore the machine limits.
Hey Chris I just had an awesome idea you could include in your Bondtech LGX review. It would basically be a plug-and-play watercooling addon with the shortest filament path in the enthusiast consumer market. Dyze Design sells those machined liquid cooling blocks that fit the Nema 17 bolt hole pattern for cooling steppers. You could bolt one of those on to the front face of the LGX instead (as long as it has the Flexible Filaments cold block) because the hole pattern is the same. You’d put thermal paste between the Dyze block and the Flexible Filaments cold block. This would easily conduct enough heat away from the heatbreak to keep it cold. This way you can have a liquid cooled LGX without the air cooling heat sink/fan. The only modification you’d have to make is mounting the Dyze cooling block horizontally (so the water flows left to right or vice versa) and drilling an m3 hole between the two bottom screws so you can still have access to the set screw that holds the heatbreak in place! With this mod you also don’t have to use the copperhead hot block that comes with the flexible filaments addon. Because the heatbreak has an M6 hot side, you could screw it into a Volcano, or even a Supervolcano. This would give you an absolute monster of an extruder with an 80mm3/sec+ max volumetric flow rate, the shortest filament path in the enthusiast consumer market, and it would be water cooled heated build chamber ready. 🤯🤯
I have been changing settings in cura for years now only to discover last night that the changes were never actually taking place because of the stupid start G-code I setup to prime the nozzle. I used prusa slicer as a test and saw how fast my printer was traveling and accelerating which confused me how that slicer was so much faster than Cura, so i compared everything down to start G-code... This is what I used which I believe i pulled it from a creality CR10 config long ago which had max settings in place causing my printer to not retract or accelerate faster: M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate G28 ;Home M420 S1 Z2 ;Enable ABL using saved Mesh and Fade Height G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
Pro tip: G32 on Reprap firmware also works for printers without multiple or independent Z axes. You can define the locations of the bed adjustment knobs then after probing it will tell you on the console how much and which direction you need to turn each corner knob to get the bed parallel with the X/Y plane. The Duet wiki pages detail how this is done (M671 on the gcode reference as well as the bed.g generator).
A couple of possible topics. I just started using PETG. I understand the temps 240/70. But I read anywhere from zero part cooling pan to 30%? What's best. Topic 2. I've seen those SUPER bridging videos. Is that all part cooling magic? Cooling the bridge before it can sag? Is this where a heavy duty part cooling fan comes in? My Ender 3 v1 just has the stock fan. My print quality is great. But I haven't tried and long bridges. Great video. I've watched it a couple times and will watch it again to let all that Gcode settings sink in.
Great intro video! So many cool things you can do in start and end code. Maybe a follow up could cover how almost every setting in PrusaSlicer is a variable, and can be used as well. Like how on Prusa machines it will lift the head after a print, as long as the Z isn't already at the max height. Or how variables can be used as dependencies to hide Print Settings for other machines?
Hey Scott! I have thought about that before and that is a great idea. Some of those statements Prusa uses are a bit cryptic. Going over them and how they work would be good to get out there. Thanks for the suggestion.
Thanks Chris, this was very useful and again, a learning experience. I am using Prusaslicer together with my Hiprecy Leo printer and am happy I could make some improvements to the custom G-code I was using. Great job and looking forward to your next video. Keep up the good work!
Great timing on this video. I rebuilt an old Taz5 last year, and I'm trying to finish some of the finer details. The bed was originally 300X300 and I upped it 310X310. My nozzle lines up at Y0, X+12 (slightly on the bed) and while you demonstrated how to do that in the Prusia Slicer, I'm curious if there is a place in Marlin to do the same thing? I'd like my nozzle to be in the true center. It prints just fine now but like you, I'd like it to be correct. I love your videos. I got Marlin 2.0 working on the old TAZ with a BTT SKR 1.4, and Marlin 2.0 based on your videos. Sensorless homing, filament runout, TMC2208 steppers - all by watching you. Thanks.
Great video Chris apparently Cure 5 does somethings a little different 🤦♂️ Like separating the G code one for the printer and one for the extruder, so even though I put in some of my parameters it didn’t go as smoothly as your video lol 😂 It did make for an interesting OH SHIT MOMENT 🤦♂️ as the slicer Chose to interpret the feed rate on the travel for the prime line in the print as the F 3000 value which was used for the travel command to the spot for the prime line! As one would imagine that filament did not stand a chance in hell as the RPM of the extruder was moving faster than the y-axis LOL 😂🤷♂️
Chris this is a great video and very enlightening!! I need to ask/mark something, could it be that at the end of the start G-code you need to type M82 to turn again to absolute extrusion mode ? I've been having issues after using this Start G-code (over extrusion), and the only way i was able to sort them out was adding M82. Thanks in advance!!
Hello. How do I show layers on printer display using prusaslicer? My printer uses Marlin. Thank you, and congratulations for the channel.! I learn a lot from you.
41:43 - Correction! For M201 through M204 RepRapFirmware and Marlin both agree and both use mm/s^2 and mm/s (when in mm mode), and not units/minute. (Marlin has no M202.) I see that the description of M201 in the RepRap wiki now specifically says “RepRapFirmware expects these values to be in mm/s^2.” Maybe this is because of the Inches Mode…? I will check the RRF source code and see whether it cares about current units, then clarify the wiki based on what I find. [EDIT: I have updated the descriptions of M200 and M201 in the RepRap wiki for modern times.]
Maaaan, its like you know what I need, I had to go trough all of these this week for my new build. This was great informative video. best 3d printing channel. Cura btw is a little different in their language. I had to learn that as well to set up my cura profile. this video makes me wonder ifthese classics jerk values in machine limit override junction deviation in my firmware.
Glad it helped, if you are using Marlin, it should be one or the other, jerk and JD have a different parm. So if it sets jerk and you have JD on, it will ignore it.
Hi Chris. Great video(s. I am actually here from the dual Z axis upgrade vid). Anyways, question, is there gcode to lift the nozzle -slightly- just after the initial layer? Cheers.
fantastic work with the G-codes chris, could you please do the same start and finish G-codes for SIMPLIFY3D SLICER as tried these codes you have done for the prusaslicer and they work right up until it starts to print but just seems to wnt to purge loads of filament out while it prints. be so grateful if you could help with this.....many thanks
Great videos! I was hoping you may have an instructional video for adding the g-code to Prusa MK3s. There is not a bowden tube and I just want to use the simple load/unload. I tried downloading to the sd card but it isnt the right configuration. Any suggestions? Thanks Chris.
Hey Chris, I could use some help, I put the BTT SKR E3 RRF in the ender 3 V2 with the h2 extruder, I was just using the ender profile on prusaslicer with it set to reprap firmware, and my m420 s1 changed to g29 s1. I will change it to reprap sprinter after watching the video. What is the difference, and what else should I change? I had to change the thermistor value in config.g, I had to print pla at 260 to make it print. How do I confirm that nozzle temp is accurate? I have an ir gun that works for the bed, but not the nozzle. Is there a way to use a glass bead thermistor with a multimeter, or an Arduino/esp32? I think I like the board, and tft35 v3, there just isn't much info out on this yet. Your video on it was a ton of help though! I have a couple Creality 4.2 series boards, and the stock display, I guess I could hook them up enough to send an extra thermistor through the hotend to the nozzle. Thanks for all your help bud!!! Afterthought,. What are your thoughts on getting the idex board for the skr E3 RRF just to use for a third cnc fan header? The board is pretty cheap, and I guess I could use other functions on it too. Now I'm reading how to get the neopixels to do stuff besides manually turning them in and off. I got a macro from the fly rrf ender 3 files that makes setting the z offset a breeze.
There isn't a lot of difference, just a couple of commands that change from REPRAP and Marlin. There aren't that many. The nozzle temp is always a challenge. I use this to test it. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071V7T6TZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Yeah, I like the idea of the daughter board. A cheap way to add options.
I have a problem. I'm using Pursa slicer 7.1.1 when I go to read my g-code it's unreadable it's just lines of letters and numbers I'm using notepad ++. If I use a different slicer, it reads it correctly. Any help would be great.
This is an awesome video man thanks. I am trying a few of these on my CURA slicer as well. Do you think you could make a vid like this for CURA as well? because it seems like some of the commands differ, I can not find the bed heating gcode in my slicer start gcode, or did I mess that up?
@Chris Riley Do you know of a good online g-code/printer simulator that will show start and end g-code as well? I only find some that show print but not movements such as prime line and end gcode. Please let me know if you know of one I can test outside of my printer to learn faster and not risk damaging my print bed or something else.
Hey Chris is there a way to print/list your 3d printer current configuration? I have a Tevo Nereus with an updated board and tft screen. Mks Robin Nano 1.2 w/tft35. Thanks
How do you like that “basement cube” CoreXY? I’ve been looking for a good stationary bed CoreXY. Really like every thing about the Rat-Rig except the moving bed… and Voron’s extruder gantry with dual linear rails but, not the extrusion frame itself. I want my cake and eat it too. ;) Just trying to get the best of all the CoreXY I can. The only reason I want a stationary bed is due to it being 500-600mm and figure the gantry would be less weight. Just not sure if it will effect the resident frequency with that much motion on the gantry.
I'm having some trouble with bed adhesion with the g-code start up. I think it's due to the bed leveling command. Could you do a CR-Touch specific video. #Ender3S1
I use an Anycubic I3 Mega S running David Ramiro's Marlin firmware. I did the build in mesh bed leveling and stored it in the machines firmware. What G-Code should I put in the start code to use that saved bed leveling?
Hello Chris, long time ago ,you show in a video how to compare 2 files in visual studio code (or was it in notepad++) , but i am looking for this video all day long but i dont find it.can you give me the link for the good video?thanks
Got a mystery; printing with my Tronxy X5S, e3d v5 clone; 220*C; print speed 35mm/s; new nozzle; PLA; first 150g of the spool prints fine; then the extruder starts skipping; extruded filament diameter decreases; no structural print integrity; compete under-extrusion; any ideas what might cause such madness?
It sounds like it might be heat creep. Make sure you have enough fan on your hotend heat sink. Maybe try some thermal paste on the heatbreak cold side threads.
Hey Chris....hope you can help me....Prusa mk3.....replaced mother board about 3 wks ago worked great....till the other day...have mintemp error (not bed) replaced thermistor sensor with new from Printed Solid....even swaped out heater cartridge....NO Change....been able to fix Every problem with this machine till now but I'm Stumbed. Any ideas?....Can I bypass this some how? Thanks
@@ChrisRiley Welllll.....Yes running stock Prusa firmware and 0 on extruder and 24-25 on bed.....but found burned area on the Einsy board just above thermistor pin (That is the prob) Sending it back to Ultimachine for check. Thanks Chris I'm Sure I'll contact you Again in the future. Be well my friend...
I did that build over on Patreon for my supporters as a series of live streams. I have a bunch of upgrades coming up for it, so I will have more on it later this year.
I have an issue when setting a pause at layer change in Prusa Slicer and then send the g-code file on octoprint. The printer (Creality) doesn't pause when reaches the set layer. How can I fix that?
@@ChrisRiley not sure, didn't try, not using SD card since using octoprint 😅. From Cura it works, but not from PrusaSlicer, but i like more PrusaSlicer, i get better and faster prints and the printer is not doing some useless travel moves like does when generated a file from Cura.
@@ChrisRiley ah okay. I recently built a voron 2.4 thats running Klipper with moonsail. My old printer Was running marlin. Now I can no longer imagine switching back
I feel that every 3d printing company should include your video to their training guides. Great job as always
Wow, thanks!
I have an Ender3 v2, bought in May, at the time I would not have watched a video like this, but you do a great job of explaining how to adjust settings for my printer, looking forward to trying some of this gcode editing. Thanks for sharing, just subscribed.
Awesome to hear, thanks for the sub!
I cant express how happy I am that You are still at it!!! A couple years off and things have matured nicely.
Thank you!
I wanted to modify the gcode for my Prusa Mk3S but didn't know where to start. This was an excellent video that taught me what I needed to know. Thank you very much.
Glad it helped, thanks for watching!
Your videos are always so incredibly useful!
Sidenote: I love how open they have kept prusaslicer. Makes it very adaptable.
Glad you like them!
Another reason for heating up the bed fully first and only then heating up the nozzle is to allow the heat to fully get through the bed. I have glass on my bed and the heater and thermostat are the bottom of the heat bed. Giving it that extra minute while separately heating the nozzle means the temperature is more consistent throughout the bed by the time I print - especially for that first layer. Here patience does have a virtue! Great video and keep up the good work.
Good tip! Thanks
Chris, another very detailed fantastic video. One thing I might add to your Prusa setting is add this to the Before layer change G-code
;LAYER:[layer_num]
This will inset the comment ;LAYER number to the gcode.
It is very useful if you a are running Octoprint
Great tip! Thanks
Just wanted to mention that for Machine Limits (39:13) on newer PrusaSlicer 2.3.0 and above, there is an option "How to apply limits" at the top. This option allows PrusaSlicer to either emit the limits into the GCODE and to calculate the print time (needs to match limits imposed in Marlin firmware) or to entirely ignore the machine limits.
Awesome to hear, I need to upgrade.
Wow Chris this video is a true labor of love! Some much needed commentary on gcode
Glad you liked it!
Nicely done. I wish I had taken the time to watch this weeks ago.
Thank you!
Hey Chris I just had an awesome idea you could include in your Bondtech LGX review. It would basically be a plug-and-play watercooling addon with the shortest filament path in the enthusiast consumer market. Dyze Design sells those machined liquid cooling blocks that fit the Nema 17 bolt hole pattern for cooling steppers. You could bolt one of those on to the front face of the LGX instead (as long as it has the Flexible Filaments cold block) because the hole pattern is the same. You’d put thermal paste between the Dyze block and the Flexible Filaments cold block. This would easily conduct enough heat away from the heatbreak to keep it cold. This way you can have a liquid cooled LGX without the air cooling heat sink/fan. The only modification you’d have to make is mounting the Dyze cooling block horizontally (so the water flows left to right or vice versa) and drilling an m3 hole between the two bottom screws so you can still have access to the set screw that holds the heatbreak in place! With this mod you also don’t have to use the copperhead hot block that comes with the flexible filaments addon. Because the heatbreak has an M6 hot side, you could screw it into a Volcano, or even a Supervolcano. This would give you an absolute monster of an extruder with an 80mm3/sec+ max volumetric flow rate, the shortest filament path in the enthusiast consumer market, and it would be water cooled heated build chamber ready. 🤯🤯
That's a very interesting idea, I didn't know those sold that type of cooler. We might have to try it out.
I have been changing settings in cura for years now only to discover last night that the changes were never actually taking place because of the stupid start G-code I setup to prime the nozzle. I used prusa slicer as a test and saw how fast my printer was traveling and accelerating which confused me how that slicer was so much faster than Cura, so i compared everything down to start G-code...
This is what I used which I believe i pulled it from a creality CR10 config long ago which had max settings in place causing my printer to not retract or accelerate faster:
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate
G28 ;Home
M420 S1 Z2 ;Enable ABL using saved Mesh and Fade Height
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
Interesting, I don't use CURA a lot, so this is good info to have.
Pro tip: G32 on Reprap firmware also works for printers without multiple or independent Z axes.
You can define the locations of the bed adjustment knobs then after probing it will tell you on the console how much and which direction you need to turn each corner knob to get the bed parallel with the X/Y plane. The Duet wiki pages detail how this is done (M671 on the gcode reference as well as the bed.g generator).
🙂👍
A couple of possible topics. I just started using PETG. I understand the temps 240/70. But I read anywhere from zero part cooling pan to 30%? What's best. Topic 2. I've seen those SUPER bridging videos. Is that all part cooling magic? Cooling the bridge before it can sag? Is this where a heavy duty part cooling fan comes in? My Ender 3 v1 just has the stock fan. My print quality is great. But I haven't tried and long bridges. Great video. I've watched it a couple times and will watch it again to let all that Gcode settings sink in.
Great topics, I have thought about these before, maybe we need a video on it.
Great intro video! So many cool things you can do in start and end code. Maybe a follow up could cover how almost every setting in PrusaSlicer is a variable, and can be used as well. Like how on Prusa machines it will lift the head after a print, as long as the Z isn't already at the max height. Or how variables can be used as dependencies to hide Print Settings for other machines?
Hey Scott! I have thought about that before and that is a great idea. Some of those statements Prusa uses are a bit cryptic. Going over them and how they work would be good to get out there. Thanks for the suggestion.
Thank you for all your work for the community. I always learn a lot by watching your videos.
Glad to hear it, thanks for watching
Thanks Chris, this was very useful and again, a learning experience. I am using Prusaslicer together with my Hiprecy Leo printer and am happy I could make some improvements to the custom G-code I was using. Great job and looking forward to your next video. Keep up the good work!
Thanks!
Great job. Hands down the best 3d printer channel.
Wow, thanks!
Hi Chris, that was a really fantastic video, thanks for all of the sharing ;-)
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks!
Great timing on this video. I rebuilt an old Taz5 last year, and I'm trying to finish some of the finer details. The bed was originally 300X300 and I upped it 310X310. My nozzle lines up at Y0, X+12 (slightly on the bed) and while you demonstrated how to do that in the Prusia Slicer, I'm curious if there is a place in Marlin to do the same thing? I'd like my nozzle to be in the true center. It prints just fine now but like you, I'd like it to be correct. I love your videos. I got Marlin 2.0 working on the old TAZ with a BTT SKR 1.4, and Marlin 2.0 based on your videos. Sensorless homing, filament runout, TMC2208 steppers - all by watching you. Thanks.
Hey Paul, yes, in Marlin, do the same kind of thing as we did with the slicer, just use min bed size instead.
Great video Chris apparently Cure 5 does somethings a little different 🤦♂️
Like separating the G code one for the printer and one for the extruder, so even though I put in some of my parameters it didn’t go as smoothly as your video lol 😂 It did make for an interesting OH SHIT MOMENT 🤦♂️ as the slicer Chose to interpret the feed rate on the travel for the prime line in the print as
the F 3000 value which was used for the travel command to the spot for the prime line!
As one would imagine that filament did not stand a chance in hell as the RPM of the extruder was moving faster than the y-axis LOL 😂🤷♂️
Lol, woops!
@@ChrisRiley if you have a video I haven’t found it here what is your preference on slicers And firmware and why?
Chris this is a great video and very enlightening!! I need to ask/mark something, could it be that at the end of the start G-code you need to type M82 to turn again to absolute extrusion mode ? I've been having issues after using this Start G-code (over extrusion), and the only way i was able to sort them out was adding M82. Thanks in advance!!
Thanks! Interesting, I would have to think about that and do some testing. I think some slicers handle this differently. I will do some comparisons.
Hello. How do I show layers on printer display using prusaslicer? My printer uses Marlin. Thank you, and congratulations for the channel.! I learn a lot from you.
Thank you! I think you mean the thumbnail. Check this one out. ua-cam.com/video/__0jvcBxnV8/v-deo.html
Thanks Chris for all of your video's. always super helpful.
Glad you think so!
The Basics ... That me after a long day ... Great Video
Thanks for watching!
41:43 - Correction! For M201 through M204 RepRapFirmware and Marlin both agree and both use mm/s^2 and mm/s (when in mm mode), and not units/minute. (Marlin has no M202.) I see that the description of M201 in the RepRap wiki now specifically says “RepRapFirmware expects these values to be in mm/s^2.” Maybe this is because of the Inches Mode…? I will check the RRF source code and see whether it cares about current units, then clarify the wiki based on what I find.
[EDIT: I have updated the descriptions of M200 and M201 in the RepRap wiki for modern times.]
Thank you sir!
Maaaan, its like you know what I need, I had to go trough all of these this week for my new build. This was great informative video. best 3d printing channel. Cura btw is a little different in their language. I had to learn that as well to set up my cura profile. this video makes me wonder ifthese classics jerk values in machine limit override junction deviation in my firmware.
Glad it helped, if you are using Marlin, it should be one or the other, jerk and JD have a different parm. So if it sets jerk and you have JD on, it will ignore it.
This video is extremely helpful, thank you so very much..
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic video.
Thank you very much!
Hi Chris. Great video(s. I am actually here from the dual Z axis upgrade vid). Anyways, question, is there gcode to lift the nozzle -slightly- just after the initial layer?
Cheers.
After the first layer goes down? It would have to be coded in the slicer somewhere, not sure where to put it.
@@ChrisRiley Yep, after the first layer. If you think ever of something then I would appreciate your ideas and input. Cheers for the reply.
Thanks. Very helpful.
I'm happy to help! Thanks for watching
Love the video! Where can I get one of those purple spool holders? Is there an STL somewhere?
Here you go. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2910508
fantastic work with the G-codes chris, could you please do the same start and finish G-codes for SIMPLIFY3D SLICER as tried these codes you have done for the prusaslicer and they work right up until it starts to print but just seems to wnt to purge loads of filament out while it prints. be so grateful if you could help with this.....many thanks
Interesting, not sure why it would be different. I will check.
As usual ... brilliant. Thanks a lot.
Thank you!
Great videos! I was hoping you may have an instructional video for adding the g-code to Prusa MK3s. There is not a bowden tube and I just want to use the simple load/unload. I tried downloading to the sd card but it isnt the right configuration. Any suggestions? Thanks Chris.
Thanks! So you want to unload and load with a Gcode command on a Prusa MK3? You can use M600 to do a filament swap, would that work?
Hey Chris, I could use some help, I put the BTT SKR E3 RRF in the ender 3 V2 with the h2 extruder, I was just using the ender profile on prusaslicer with it set to reprap firmware, and my m420 s1 changed to g29 s1. I will change it to reprap sprinter after watching the video. What is the difference, and what else should I change?
I had to change the thermistor value in config.g, I had to print pla at 260 to make it print. How do I confirm that nozzle temp is accurate? I have an ir gun that works for the bed, but not the nozzle. Is there a way to use a glass bead thermistor with a multimeter, or an Arduino/esp32?
I think I like the board, and tft35 v3, there just isn't much info out on this yet. Your video on it was a ton of help though! I have a couple Creality 4.2 series boards, and the stock display, I guess I could hook them up enough to send an extra thermistor through the hotend to the nozzle. Thanks for all your help bud!!!
Afterthought,. What are your thoughts on getting the idex board for the skr E3 RRF just to use for a third cnc fan header? The board is pretty cheap, and I guess I could use other functions on it too. Now I'm reading how to get the neopixels to do stuff besides manually turning them in and off. I got a macro from the fly rrf ender 3 files that makes setting the z offset a breeze.
There isn't a lot of difference, just a couple of commands that change from REPRAP and Marlin. There aren't that many. The nozzle temp is always a challenge. I use this to test it. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071V7T6TZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah, I like the idea of the daughter board. A cheap way to add options.
I have a problem. I'm using Pursa slicer 7.1.1 when I go to read my g-code it's unreadable it's just lines of letters and numbers I'm using notepad ++. If I use a different slicer, it reads it correctly. Any help would be great.
That's probably because it is now in binary, you can turn that off in 2.7.1 in printer setting in general, uncheck binary gcode.
Very good and much needed!
Glad it was helpful!
This is an awesome video man thanks.
I am trying a few of these on my CURA slicer as well.
Do you think you could make a vid like this for CURA as well? because it seems like some of the commands differ, I can not find the bed heating gcode in my slicer start gcode, or did I mess that up?
I am getting a lot of questions like this. That is really strange. I will have to take a look at cura and see what it's doing.
@Chris Riley Do you know of a good online g-code/printer simulator that will show start and end g-code as well? I only find some that show print but not movements such as prime line and end gcode. Please let me know if you know of one I can test outside of my printer to learn faster and not risk damaging my print bed or something else.
I don't but I would like to find one. I always use gcode.ws, but it doesn't do start and end.
really good work chris! Well done.
Thanks a lot!
Hey Chris is there a way to print/list your 3d printer current configuration? I have a Tevo Nereus with an updated board and tft screen. Mks Robin Nano 1.2 w/tft35. Thanks
If it's running Marlin about the best you can do is run a M503 to get some information about the config.
i tried to use in ender 3 v2 stok with klipper fw it doesn't work stops after prime line
Doh! not sure how klipper is going to treat this.
How do you like that “basement cube” CoreXY? I’ve been looking for a good stationary bed CoreXY. Really like every thing about the Rat-Rig except the moving bed… and Voron’s extruder gantry with dual linear rails but, not the extrusion frame itself. I want my cake and eat it too. ;) Just trying to get the best of all the CoreXY I can. The only reason I want a stationary bed is due to it being 500-600mm and figure the gantry would be less weight. Just not sure if it will effect the resident frequency with that much motion on the gantry.
I really like it, but it's not perfect. I have a strange vertical artifact that I can't find. I still need to do lots of troubleshooting on it.
I'm having some trouble with bed adhesion with the g-code start up. I think it's due to the bed leveling command. Could you do a CR-Touch specific video. #Ender3S1
I can take a look.
I use an Anycubic I3 Mega S running David Ramiro's Marlin firmware. I did the build in mesh bed leveling and stored it in the machines firmware. What G-Code should I put in the start code to use that saved bed leveling?
Yes, right after G28.
You're doing gods work Chris
Thank you my son! ;)
FYI PrusaSlicer 2.3 allows you to disable sending machine limits no matter what firmware flavour you are set to.
Cool, thanks!
And it also brings the "RepRapFirmware" G-code flavor which uses the G10 commands to set active/standby temps.
Hello Chris, long time ago ,you show in a video how to compare 2 files in visual studio code (or was it in notepad++) , but i am looking for this video all day long but i dont find it.can you give me the link for the good video?thanks
I have done both, but this is the one I am thinking of. ua-cam.com/video/0pt_b2ZizQM/v-deo.html
Got a mystery; printing with my Tronxy X5S, e3d v5 clone; 220*C; print speed 35mm/s; new nozzle; PLA; first 150g of the spool prints fine; then the extruder starts skipping; extruded filament diameter decreases; no structural print integrity; compete under-extrusion; any ideas what might cause such madness?
It sounds like it might be heat creep. Make sure you have enough fan on your hotend heat sink. Maybe try some thermal paste on the heatbreak cold side threads.
Hey Chris....hope you can help me....Prusa mk3.....replaced mother board about 3 wks ago worked great....till the other day...have mintemp error (not bed) replaced thermistor sensor with new from Printed Solid....even swaped out heater cartridge....NO Change....been able to fix Every problem with this machine till now but I'm Stumbed. Any ideas?....Can I bypass this some how? Thanks
Are you running stock Prusa firmware? In Marlin you could change this up. Does it read the correct temp at all?
@@ChrisRiley Welllll.....Yes running stock Prusa firmware and 0 on extruder and 24-25 on bed.....but found burned area on the Einsy board just above thermistor pin (That is the prob) Sending it back to Ultimachine for check. Thanks Chris I'm Sure I'll contact you Again in the future. Be well my friend...
Awesome! TY
You bet!
Do you have build videos on the basement cube?
I did that build over on Patreon for my supporters as a series of live streams. I have a bunch of upgrades coming up for it, so I will have more on it later this year.
wow. excellent!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks Chris! That helps a lot
No problem! Thanks for watching
How do you add the tool settings when using dual extruders?
You would just call them in G code T0 and T1.
The start and end G-code provided by Prusa for the Ender 3 is piss poor I had to copy and paste from Cura to get it to print properly
Interesting, I am waiting to see what updates Prusa makes to these non-Prusa profiles.
This is another favorite 😁👍🛸🛸🤖🤖
Thanks, I'm glad you like it
Life saver
Thanks!
Nice - thank you 🙏
Thank you too!
What are the consequences if you duplicate a gcode in you start or end, that the slicer is automatically inserting? Which wins?
That is a great question and from all the testing I have done, the manually entered command wins.
I have an issue when setting a pause at layer change in Prusa Slicer and then send the g-code file on octoprint. The printer (Creality) doesn't pause when reaches the set layer. How can I fix that?
Does it work form the SD card? What command are you using?
@@ChrisRiley not sure, didn't try, not using SD card since using octoprint 😅. From Cura it works, but not from PrusaSlicer, but i like more PrusaSlicer, i get better and faster prints and the printer is not doing some useless travel moves like does when generated a file from Cura.
@@ChrisRiley i think it is M600, what PrusaSlicer gives me as a default for color change. I guess, it isn't the right command?
@@petergrizon4434 Yes, M600 should start the filament change sequence. I would look at the gcode side by side.
@@ChrisRiley thank you
51 minutes of tips. Nice
and just the tips
Lol, thanks
👍 Good one! Thx. 😃
Thank you too!
why my prime line print in the air ?
Make sure you have a Z setting in the start gcode.
Thanks
No problem, thanks for watching
Have you tried klipper?
Yes, I have an older Klipper video, but I will be getting back into it soon.
@@ChrisRiley ah okay. I recently built a voron 2.4 thats running Klipper with moonsail. My old printer Was running marlin. Now I can no longer imagine switching back
hmmm.. my prime line is 190 lines long... hmmmm
You need a long run before the chaos ensues. LOL
not the Walgreens mouse lol
🙂
"You're Fired"... for not rebooting after windoze update!!.. lol
LOL! 😉