I am 65 year old new to 3D printing and my wife purchased me an Ender 5 Pro for a retirement gift a few weeks back. I found your channel when searching for information on the Ender 5. I was very impressed with your knowledge and enthusiasm, I immediately subscribed. I don't comment much since I'm just starting out. You have really helped me understand and apply various things that have improved my 3D print skill set. Thank you and keep them coming!
Thanks. P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Nope. Prior to retiring from the corporate world about 18 months ago I built computer software companies that I then sold once they reached scale. I love learning, making and teaching which is why i started the DrVax channel.
I am a few years older than you and still learning. I have videos on the channel about the topics your asked about. Just go to ua-cam.com/users/drvax and look through the playlists.
dr. vax you are the best! you make learning fun and i appreciate the fact that you decided not to edit out driving your hot end off the print bed, but instead made it a teaching experience. please dont ever stop teaching us less informed, the way that you do.
Informative under-the-hood video. Takes me back to my days of programming pick and place for NMR samples and patient tables for MRI. Always interesting to learn the programming language behind the machine.
FINALLY!!! I find someone who can explain GCode to me in a way I can undersstand it!!! Thank You! Being new to 3D printing I needed the basics first. You have now open a new understanding to 3D printing and how this all works!
Fantastic video sir!! Very impressive information for the laymen. When my son gets a few years older, we will definitely be rewatching some of your stuff together! Thanks so much for putting out this type of educational material. Shalom!
Very informative. I have been exploring gcode a lot, trying to develop a better start and end gcode to eliminate some problems I had with filament between prints. This is a really great video for anyone who has a fdm printer and so much information.
Nice presentation. I'm new to 3D printing, as I found a new Core XY at a bargain price and couldn't resist. It has worked fine for several prints, but then it started making that horrendous drive gear teeth skipping over a non-moving belt, like yours did, when it was trying to home somewhere in the neighbors yard. I thought I had screwed something up playing with G code commands, but the fix turned out to be a solder job as the X axis end stop microswitch had one wire break off due to all the flexing it had gone through. It's now working again with the addition of some strain relief for the wiring, but live and learn! So G code has been around since the 50's! You mentioned punch cards, then magnetic tape, but between the two our Moore NC jig bore, back in the early 70's, used rolls of punched black paper tape fed through a reader to program it, then they came out with Mylar tape for more durability. Oh, the good old days as an apprentice mold maker, and 50 years later I'm back playing with hot plastic once again. Thanks, and keep the good info coming!
I have the Monoprice mini delta. Its been so long time since I used it that I don't remember what was wrong with it. All I remember was that it is hard to get to parts to fix things.I do like that this printer has a bed that does not move and does not need to be leveled.
Thanks Dr. Vax. My experience is that there really aren't a lot of gcode commands that we need to know. It would be great if someone had created a short document that showed the most common commands. I've found a few online but they never seem to have the basic commands that are needed or they have way too many.
This was a great basics gcode intro. I upgraded my Ender3 S1 Pro to a creality sonic pad and trying to figure out why my last print finished with the print head stopped over the print making a burn hole on the print. Im trying to understand the basics of gcode so i can check to see if its something in my setting
This video was pretty helpful as a refresher course, after a fashion, that is. I came from a CNC machine shop environment and 3D printing is quite different. I have two Flashforge Adventurer 3 Lite that I would like to have more control over.
A great video. I'm stumbling my way through learning how to modify gcode but sadly my brain just doesn't work this way. lol I'm trying to do something that I believe is rather simple but for the life of me I cannot get it All i want is to insert a custom command that will pause the print after layer 100 is complete, move the nozzle to the X axis home position, wait too secondsv so I can insert metal washers into pockets, and then move the nozzle back to where it was and begin printing layer 101 as if it had never paused at all. I'll be darned if I can figure this out lol
I would recommend just using the change filament capabilities in your slicer. This will make it easy. I put a video on my channel a couple of years ago covering this.
@@MakeWithTech It was, just like the extruder calibration video which I watched today. But am still having problem with not enough filament coming out in my Monoprice MP10 Mini just before printing a simple circle part I made for testing.
@@MakeWithTech I use 220 from day one. The cat sample went well but nothing after that. The filament is a "local brand" ( China made). Thatnks for the advice any way.
I found that really interesting. Thank you. May I ask how do you use a g code to set up for unexpected filament changes? AS I said Many thanks, awesome information.
Thank you so much for your tutorials! You are a great instructor. Can you please teach me how to make cookie cutter with a very sharp edge to cut through? I use my cutters to cut very thinly rolled sugar paste to make flowers out of it and there is no where I can find any tutorials showing how to get very sharp edge like a knife. I have tried sanding the edges, tried using a smaller nozzle, tried the edge at 0.8 but haven’t been successful. I have tried it in fusion 360. Can you also please let me know where I can get the Octoprint box you show in the video in Canada and the astroprint, and would like to know if astroprint to buy or octoprint. Thank you very very much.
One at a time. -- If you want a sharper edge on your cookie cutter, then basically you need to create a shape that functions as an edge. If you are using Tinkercad, try adding a very narrow triangle, it is called a roof in Tinkercad to the bottom edge of your cutters. In Fusion 360 I found this video about how to create a knife blade. ua-cam.com/video/XpqXMJNatB8/v-deo.html -- Any Raspberry Pi 3 box will work. Here is a link to Amazon with a box I have used. (This is an affiliate link but will cost you nothing extra.) amzn.to/2NHEsqC This will work for both Octoprint and Astroprint. For astroprint you will also need and extra wifi dongle: amzn.to/2NEq8zj Astroprint requires two wifi connections during the installation. One provided by the board and a second provided by the dongle. -- Astroprint SW is located at www.astroprint.com/download-3d-printer-software, and Octoprint SW is located at octoprint.org/download/ Enjoy your 3d printer and let's continue to learn together.
Irv, had great comments. Let me add a few about Octoprint and Astroprint. I have used both and for a while, I was a big Astroprint fan and user. A couple of things made me go back to Octoprint as my interface to the printer from my computers. 1) Astroprint will only let you use two printers for free, if you want more you must pay a monthly fee. When I got my third printer this became an issue. 2) Octoprint has a much more robust community, many plugins that let you customize what you see and how you can interact with the printer and Octoprint. 3) Octoprint allows you to easily change the device name so that it can be accessed on your local network easily. For example in Astroprint I found that I needed to use IP addresses, which would sometimes change. Octoprint , via the raspberry operating system allows you to change the network name to anything you want. 4) Octoprint has a beta version for the raspberry pi 4, which I am testing now. 5) Octoprint does not need any add on's to the raspberry pi, It uses the internal wireless connection, or you can even use wired eithernet. If I am incorrect, I'm sure others will provide good answers. There are many good you-tube videos on both systems, DR Vax has a couple, along with Teaching Tech and others.
Thanks for a great video. If I want to read the 49 ABL bed (x,y,z) values from a Neptune 3 Plus using Pronterface, would I use M420 V T1 to get a csv data list to Pronterface? Does it change anyhing in the printer memory when I do that.
This is from the Marlin website "The G0 and G1 commands add a linear move to the queue to be performed after all previous moves are completed. These commands yield control back to the command parser as soon as the move is queued, but they may delay the command parser while awaiting a slot in the queue." It continues later with "Coordinates are given in millimeters by default. Units may be set to inches by G20.". So the answer is yes. Here are some examples from the same Marlin docs: G0 X12 ; move to 12mm on the X axis G0 F1500 ; set the feedrate to 1500mm/m G1 X90.6 Y13.8 ; move to 90.6mm on the X axis and 13.8mm on the Y axis marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html
Very good video explaining g-code. I have done some programing many many years ago. I have used stl files only. Never looked at the g-code as I assumed that it was like programing in basic or vb. Thanks again. Would it be the same for a laser engraver?
Great video, just what i was looking for, just 1 question. any idea what to do if when you press connect it says "unable to connect to" i have tried 2 different ports and i get the same problem?
HI Irv , Thanks again a video and great intro .. I am connected to my TronHoo printer with OctoPi and sending commands not all of them react although the give me "OK" for even the simple M503 and M115 don't give me results?? G1 seems works . I tried also G12 (clean the nozzle) gives me "OK" but again no reaction. Any suggestions? Looking forward to your insights and help .. Regards
I haven't looked at gcode before but it looks like it would be interesting to set up and tweak in MS Excel. I know I was supposed to calibrate the amount of filament being extruded on command but I still haven't done it, not sure how to do it on the creality cr10s.
LOL done it to often to send it of the bed into the end stoppers ..... lucky me bastard had soft hit enabled :-) This is my custom Gcode I run before every print : ; Home the axes G28 ; CLEAN NOZZLE | Home X&Y axes G12 P2 S2 R10 ; X&Y axes G0 X10 Y10 So it jumps and draw 2 circles over an area to which I have a brush attached similar to a toothbrush head which brushes off and catches all heated up molten plastic hanging around the nozzle. A think you do have to do when you run filaments like PETG a lot when you also use ironing because it leave left over plastic on the nozzle behind.
Dear DrVax, I have a 3D-printer, "Pioneer Xvico", that I bought last year. And from the beginning it work with Cura 14.07. I tried to install Cura (another version) but 3D-printer doesn't reaction to output "G-code". Is Problem go back to "Start, End -Code"? How can I find the problem and solve it? Thanks a lot
Hi do you know how to write a G code for ender 3 S1 pro I would like the bed to move forward when I click pause instead of automatically goes toward it back I use orca slicer 2.0 thank you. Eli
Could you do a video about STL files? I can generate 3 dimensional objects mathematically. I’d love to convert these to STL files and the print them out
Thank you Great video learned alot.i just bought NP delta same one you are using and im having a problem. Maybe you can help. The machine stops for a couple of seconds on the same spot every time running the same print the test print it came with a cat. Thank you.
3:29 You're almost literally describing mcor printers that literally stack paper cut it the right shape, then a layer of glue goes between, to create a 3D object.
Hello. Thanks for the video. I want to edit a sliced gcode to make the print look better, straighten some paths that the nozzle makes, etc. Are there resources that teach how to do it?
@@MakeWithTech maybe you know how to get the gcode in relative mode? i want the beginning of the print to show x0y0 and then move on from there like x10y0, etc
I made a simple object to print and saved the file to a local library as .gcode using MatterControl. When i go to copy the file to the sd card the .gcode file is missing.. folder is empty.
is there a way to get a file off thing verse if you only have a chromebook? then use online slicer since you can not download of open zip files with a chromebook? i ask because i think a few weeks ago you commented that, but can't remember,,, thanks
I believe Astroprint has a direct connection to Thingiverse. In addition most Chromebooks support downloading to your local solid state disk. You can see the files here with "filer". Then you can upload to any site you would like.
I just got my first printer and found your tutorials, I've got four hours in and know I need the cable to connect my printer to my computer, does anyone know where to look or maybe I am not using the right term. xvico to a hp machine?
The easiest way to get started is to slicer you model and then copy the gcode file, the output of the slicer to an SDCard and just walk the card over to your printer. 3d printers use a range of cables from micro USB to full USB, from A style to B style or I expect in the future C style. In the case of the xvico 3d printer, the Q&A for the one sold by Amazon claims it does not have a USB port. That would be very unusual.
I just purchased an Artillery SW X1 - thinking, it should be easy to use. Should have realized I'm not really that savvy with technology, but yet here I am with a 3d Printer I have no clue what I'm I'm doing. I learned about slicer software and what not; I downloaded a .stl file from thingiverse thinking it should be an easy print after successfully assembling the printer and printing the cube sample. Now in attempting this new .stl file of a water well miniature, it seems when I selected print, it wants to print on the left front corner. Is there a simple solution to this? How do I get this file to print in the middle of the printer bed? HELP! :(
@DrVax Hello Dr Vax, I have a print quality questions. I have a Ender 5 printer and I am using Simplified 3D slicer. Do you know the correct value settings for this 3d printer? My prints have strings and small bumps. I tried to increase filiment retraction speed and it did help a little but its not enough to get rid of both issues. If you bought a new printer and you were trying to tweak it a little to perform better how would you go about it? what kind of test print would you use? is there any good rule of thumb for the different printing setting that is most common to set the values to? I only print with PLA so the setting would be dialed in to that kind of filament. What would you recomend with bed and extruder temperatures? I set mine to 70c for bed and 195c extruder. Any guidenance on setting the best printing values, I would greatly appriciate it. Thank You Sidney
@Sidney King All of your questions are good and to completely cover all of them would take pages. First, while I own a copy of Simplify 3d I really do not use it much. I recommend for your first print download a free copy of Cura 4.4. The Ender 5 profile in Cura 4.4 is a great starting point. Second, you need to make sure you are using a good quality filament when you first get started since the problem you described could be caused by the characteristics of your filament. I like MatterHacker Build PLA and Hatchbox PLA for beginners. The only thing I might change for my first prints is the extruder temperature. I think the default might be 200c, I obtain good results at 205 -- when stringing is not a concern. Next, do not increase the default printer speed until you have mastered your printer. Speed causes print defects if your printer is not tuned properly. Finally, watch lots of videos on this channel and others. I have over 100 videos which will cover most of your questions. Bumps may be caused by seams, by temperature (when printing too hot -- which I do not think is the cause for you), by the quality of the filament, by extrusion multiples, and other parameters. This is why I would start with a baseline of Cura 4.4 with the standard draft profile for the Ender 5. Enjoy your new hobby. Irv
I have two ender printers. Both use Marlin firmware. On the ender 3 neo I can put G-Code on a card and plug it in and it works fine. But on the ender 3 Max neo the g code gets ignored. That's because the version of Merlin is different and the ender 3 Max neo needs all the comments that the slicer makes. If you don't have the comments of telling it it's Marlin, how many layers, x y and z Max, and a bunch of other stuff the G-Code you put on the SD card will not work.
As a noob to 3D printing, I try to stay out of the weeds ... at least until at such time I really am forced to. Looks like I am forced to... :( I obtained an obj file from the internet and no matter what slicer I use when I send the gcode to the printer the print does not start in the center of the plate it starts half hanging off a corner, ruining the print. Which is weird because the object is centered in the slicer software and EVERY single slice I do with the same settings works fine. It is almost as if the obj code has some ability to alter what the slicer says on positioning... ugh.
I've got an ender 3 pro printer, I was using cura 3.21 slicer which gave me a G code output file: then upgraded to cura 4 only to find cura 4 gives an output code that the Ender doesn't recognize. is there a way to convert to G code or make Cura 4 to output G code?
is there a way to turn off the bed temperature down or turn off after let say 1 hour or 2 hours or 1 day? i have a bending problem and this comes from the bed temperature and the fan on my chiron. i will appreciate any help. thanks!
actually geometric code goes go way back to Ancient Egypt A0745 BC we were more advanced back then ! (HARD TO BELIEVE ?)And if you cant swallow that one, then you believe they did all those fancy granite boxes and wall trims by hammer and chisel right? and when I refer to more advance, well try cutting a slab of granite now adays?//ha!! and see if you get the same results?
I am 65 year old new to 3D printing and my wife purchased me an Ender 5 Pro for a retirement gift a few weeks back. I found your channel when searching for information on the Ender 5. I was very impressed with your knowledge and enthusiasm, I immediately subscribed. I don't comment much since I'm just starting out. You have really helped me understand and apply various things that have improved my 3D print skill set. Thank you and keep them coming!
Thanks.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
you're clearly a teacher or professor Excellent video Thanks for the info !
Nope. Prior to retiring from the corporate world about 18 months ago I built computer software companies that I then sold once they reached scale. I love learning, making and teaching which is why i started the DrVax channel.
Awesome video! Can't wait for more. At 60 years old and I want to know more about. Firmware updates and such.
I am a few years older than you and still learning. I have videos on the channel about the topics your asked about. Just go to ua-cam.com/users/drvax and look through the playlists.
dr. vax you are the best! you make learning fun and i appreciate the fact that you decided not to edit out driving your hot end off the print bed, but instead made it a teaching experience. please dont ever stop teaching us less informed, the way that you do.
You are a great teacher man. I'm not a techie by any stretch, but I was able to understand the info. Thank you!
I have learnt a lot from this channel being a newbie, setting up my Ender 5 and learning to make my own parts thank you DrVax
Enjoy. 3d printing is an excellent hobby and I will be covering how to make money with it on the side in 2020.
@@MakeWithTech will be waiting for the "make money with 3d printer," hopefully soon! I'm a newbie too and I second what he said!
Informative under-the-hood video. Takes me back to my days of programming pick and place for NMR samples and patient tables for MRI. Always interesting to learn the programming language behind the machine.
Yep. I love learning what is under the covers.
Ditto here. I ran Swiss P&P Machine, a Zevatech, for several years and that’s where I got my familiarity.
FINALLY!!! I find someone who can explain GCode to me in a way I can undersstand it!!! Thank You! Being new to 3D printing I needed the basics first. You have now open a new understanding to 3D printing and how this all works!
As always, I'm glad we learned something together. This was so very intuitive.
Fantastic video sir!! Very impressive information for the laymen. When my son gets a few years older, we will definitely be rewatching some of your stuff together! Thanks so much for putting out this type of educational material. Shalom!
The video is very informative, as an introduction to NC control lecture for FDM. Thank you.
Thanks for commenting.
Very informative. I have been exploring gcode a lot, trying to develop a better start and end gcode to eliminate some problems I had with filament between prints. This is a really great video for anyone who has a fdm printer and so much information.
Thanks
Nice presentation. I'm new to 3D printing, as I found a new Core XY at a bargain price and couldn't resist. It has worked fine for several prints, but then it started making that horrendous drive gear teeth skipping over a non-moving belt, like yours did, when it was trying to home somewhere in the neighbors yard.
I thought I had screwed something up playing with G code commands, but the fix turned out to be a solder job as the X axis end stop microswitch had one wire break off due to all the flexing it had gone through. It's now working again with the addition of some strain relief for the wiring, but live and learn!
So G code has been around since the 50's! You mentioned punch cards, then magnetic tape, but between the two our Moore NC jig bore, back in the early 70's, used rolls of punched black paper tape fed through a reader to program it, then they came out with Mylar tape for more durability. Oh, the good old days as an apprentice mold maker, and 50 years later I'm back playing with hot plastic once again.
Thanks, and keep the good info coming!
Great video, I am still very much a newbie and honestly your videos have been some of the more informative.
Thanks
Always interesting to find out what is under the hood and how to operate things at the lowest level..
Very informative (as usual) 👍👏🤓
Thanks
What a class Today on 3d printing Thank you Sir .
Defiantly helpful for beginners. Thank you for your videos. I hope to continue learning for you. Have a great one.
Watched from start to finish rly good vid
thanks for making something so dry as G code enjoyable! Subscriber today great job
Your welcome. I do my best.
I have the Monoprice mini delta. Its been so long time since I used it that I don't remember what was wrong with it. All I remember was that it is hard to get to parts to fix things.I do like that this printer has a bed that does not move and does not need to be leveled.
You deserve more subscribers!
very informative. I like your style!
Thank you for this. There is a lot of knowledge here.
Thank you so much for the explanation. It's very clear and easy for me to understand. You have a new subscriber now.
Informative. Thank you.
Thank you very much
Thanks Dr. Vax. My experience is that there really aren't a lot of gcode commands that we need to know. It would be great if someone had created a short document that showed the most common commands. I've found a few online but they never seem to have the basic commands that are needed or they have way too many.
This is correct since many of the guide commands apply to CNC machines.
a real 'human' explaining stuff to animal like beings. so sweet.
Fascinating, thank you
Very clear
Thanks.
This was a great basics gcode intro. I upgraded my Ender3 S1 Pro to a creality sonic pad and trying to figure out why my last print finished with the print head stopped over the print making a burn hole on the print. Im trying to understand the basics of gcode so i can check to see if its something in my setting
This video was pretty helpful as a refresher course, after a fashion, that is. I came from a CNC machine shop environment and 3D printing is quite different. I have two Flashforge Adventurer 3 Lite that I would like to have more control over.
A very useful overview thank you!
Great job explaining !
Great video thanks for sharing, I did understand the code better.
Hey Great content. Really enjoy the information you give us on 3d printing
This video serves as a great example why you shouldn't (or should be really careful) download G code even if you think it's for the same machine.
very goog I like to know what is on when I was working , your video help me ! thanks a lot !
A great video. I'm stumbling my way through learning how to modify gcode but sadly my brain just doesn't work this way. lol I'm trying to do something that I believe is rather simple but for the life of me I cannot get it All i want is to insert a custom command that will pause the print after layer 100 is complete, move the nozzle to the X axis home position, wait too secondsv so I can insert metal washers into pockets, and then move the nozzle back to where it was and begin printing layer 101 as if it had never paused at all. I'll be darned if I can figure this out lol
I would recommend just using the change filament capabilities in your slicer. This will make it easy. I put a video on my channel a couple of years ago covering this.
@@MakeWithTech I'm going to go search for that video right now. Thanks 😁
Very interesting video - as always. Thank you!
At 6:08 you say 300mm/min. On the sceen it's 3000mm/min. - ups :-)
Yep. Got me.
3000mm/min* :D
Good tutorial. Thx
Thanks for the comment
OMG! I feel already graduated with honor of g code watching this video. Hail DrVax!!
Thanks for the comment glade you found the gcode tutorial helpful
@@MakeWithTech It was, just like the extruder calibration video which I watched today. But am still having problem with not enough filament coming out in my Monoprice MP10 Mini just before printing a simple circle part I made for testing.
@@kingcogles Try increasing your extruder temperature. I generally use about 206C or higher for PLA.
@@MakeWithTech I use 220 from day one. The cat sample went well but nothing after that. The filament is a "local brand" ( China made). Thatnks for the advice any way.
Love your content.
Thank you, great info for newbie!
Nice vid!!
I found that really interesting. Thank you. May I ask how do you use a g code to set up for unexpected filament changes? AS I said Many thanks, awesome information.
You're the man!!!
Thanks
Thank you
Thank you so much for your tutorials! You are a great instructor. Can you please teach me how to make cookie cutter with a very sharp edge to cut through? I use my cutters to cut very thinly rolled sugar paste to make flowers out of it and there is no where I can find any tutorials showing how to get very sharp edge like a knife. I have tried sanding the edges, tried using a smaller nozzle, tried the edge at 0.8 but haven’t been successful. I have tried it in fusion 360.
Can you also please let me know where I can get the Octoprint box you show in the video in Canada and the astroprint, and would like to know if astroprint to buy or octoprint. Thank you very very much.
One at a time.
-- If you want a sharper edge on your cookie cutter, then basically you need to create a shape that functions as an edge. If you are using Tinkercad, try adding a very narrow triangle, it is called a roof in Tinkercad to the bottom edge of your cutters. In Fusion 360 I found this video about how to create a knife blade. ua-cam.com/video/XpqXMJNatB8/v-deo.html
-- Any Raspberry Pi 3 box will work. Here is a link to Amazon with a box I have used. (This is an affiliate link but will cost you nothing extra.) amzn.to/2NHEsqC This will work for both Octoprint and Astroprint. For astroprint you will also need and extra wifi dongle: amzn.to/2NEq8zj Astroprint requires two wifi connections during the installation. One provided by the board and a second provided by the dongle.
-- Astroprint SW is located at www.astroprint.com/download-3d-printer-software, and Octoprint SW is located at octoprint.org/download/
Enjoy your 3d printer and let's continue to learn together.
Irv, had great comments. Let me add a few about Octoprint and Astroprint. I have used both and for a while, I was a big Astroprint fan and user. A couple of things made me go back to Octoprint as my interface to the printer from my computers.
1) Astroprint will only let you use two printers for free, if you want more you must pay a monthly fee. When I got my third printer this became an issue.
2) Octoprint has a much more robust community, many plugins that let you customize what you see and how you can interact with the printer and Octoprint.
3) Octoprint allows you to easily change the device name so that it can be accessed on your local network easily. For example in Astroprint I found that I needed to use IP addresses, which would sometimes change. Octoprint , via the raspberry operating system allows you to change the network name to anything you want.
4) Octoprint has a beta version for the raspberry pi 4, which I am testing now.
5) Octoprint does not need any add on's to the raspberry pi, It uses the internal wireless connection, or you can even use wired eithernet.
If I am incorrect, I'm sure others will provide good answers.
There are many good you-tube videos on both systems, DR Vax has a couple, along with Teaching Tech and others.
Thanks for a great video.
If I want to read the 49 ABL bed (x,y,z) values from a Neptune 3 Plus using Pronterface, would I use
M420 V T1 to get a csv data list to Pronterface? Does it change anyhing in the printer memory when I do that.
Dr. Vax how do you know know how much to extrude per given distance. Like when you do a prime line . Thanks
This is from the Marlin website "The G0 and G1 commands add a linear move to the queue to be performed after all previous moves are completed. These commands yield control back to the command parser as soon as the move is queued, but they may delay the command parser while awaiting a slot in the queue." It continues later with "Coordinates are given in millimeters by default. Units may be set to inches by G20.".
So the answer is yes. Here are some examples from the same Marlin docs:
G0 X12 ; move to 12mm on the X axis
G0 F1500 ; set the feedrate to 1500mm/m
G1 X90.6 Y13.8 ; move to 90.6mm on the X axis and 13.8mm on the Y axis
marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html
excellent
Thanks
Thank You!
Very good video explaining g-code. I have done some programing many many years ago. I have used stl files only. Never looked at the g-code as I assumed that it was like programing in basic or vb. Thanks again. Would it be the same for a laser engraver?
Great video, just what i was looking for, just 1 question. any idea what to do if when you press connect it says "unable to connect to" i have tried 2 different ports and i get the same problem?
Great 👍🏽 video
Great!
Thaaaaaaaank yoooooouuuuu!
Why the printer did not tell you that the command you give is not allowed. This to avoid the crashing of the extruder?
Possible but in most cases the issue is that the printers firmware is incomplete.
HI Irv , Thanks again a video and great intro .. I am connected to my TronHoo printer with OctoPi and sending commands not all of them react although the give me "OK" for even the simple M503 and M115 don't give me results?? G1 seems works . I tried also G12 (clean the nozzle) gives me "OK" but again no reaction. Any suggestions?
Looking forward to your insights and help .. Regards
I haven't looked at gcode before but it looks like it would be interesting to set up and tweak in MS Excel. I know I was supposed to calibrate the amount of filament being extruded on command but I still haven't done it, not sure how to do it on the creality cr10s.
Great video!
Please tell me why at 18:38 your G90 was multiplied by 32. Thanks
*Do you know how to set up a Laser for the Ender 3, Please*
LOL done it to often to send it of the bed into the end stoppers ..... lucky me bastard had soft hit enabled :-)
This is my custom Gcode I run before every print :
; Home the axes
G28
; CLEAN NOZZLE | Home X&Y axes
G12 P2 S2 R10
; X&Y axes
G0 X10 Y10
So it jumps and draw 2 circles over an area to which I have a brush attached similar to a toothbrush head which brushes off and catches all heated up molten plastic hanging around the nozzle. A think you do have to do when you run filaments like PETG a lot when you also use ironing because it leave left over plastic on the nozzle behind.
Dear DrVax,
I have a 3D-printer, "Pioneer Xvico", that I bought last year.
And from the beginning it work with Cura 14.07.
I tried to install Cura (another version) but 3D-printer doesn't reaction to output "G-code".
Is Problem go back to "Start, End -Code"?
How can I find the problem and solve it?
Thanks a lot
Hi do you know how to write a G code for ender 3 S1 pro I would like the bed to move forward when I click pause instead of automatically goes toward it back I use orca slicer 2.0 thank you.
Eli
Could you do a video about STL files? I can generate 3 dimensional objects mathematically. I’d love to convert these to STL files and the print them out
Thank you Great video learned alot.i just bought NP delta same one you are using and im having a problem. Maybe you can help. The machine stops for a couple of seconds on the same spot every time running the same print the test print it came with a cat. Thank you.
3:29 You're almost literally describing mcor printers that literally stack paper cut it the right shape, then a layer of glue goes between, to create a 3D object.
Very interesting.
Hai sir, i would like to asked a question… Is it possible if i would like to print anet a8 g code with ender 3 v2. Is it can?
Gcode is gcode, but you gave to verify it was sliced with the correct printer dimensions, temperatures and retraction settings.
Hello. Thanks for the video. I want to edit a sliced gcode to make the print look better, straighten some paths that the nozzle makes, etc. Are there resources that teach how to do it?
Wow this would be very complex. I think you might be better off optimizing the model before your slice.
@@MakeWithTech maybe you know how to get the gcode in relative mode? i want the beginning of the print to show x0y0 and then move on from there like x10y0, etc
I made a simple object to print and saved the file to a local library as
.gcode using MatterControl. When i go to copy the file to the sd card the .gcode file is
missing.. folder is empty.
is there a way to get a file off thing verse if you only have a chromebook? then use online slicer since you can not download of open zip files with a chromebook? i ask because i think a few weeks ago you commented that, but can't remember,,, thanks
I believe Astroprint has a direct connection to Thingiverse. In addition most Chromebooks support downloading to your local solid state disk. You can see the files here with "filer". Then you can upload to any site you would like.
I just got my first printer and found your tutorials, I've got four hours in and know I need the cable to connect my printer to my computer, does anyone know where to look or maybe I am not using the right term. xvico to a hp machine?
The easiest way to get started is to slicer you model and then copy the gcode file, the output of the slicer to an SDCard and just walk the card over to your printer. 3d printers use a range of cables from micro USB to full USB, from A style to B style or I expect in the future C style.
In the case of the xvico 3d printer, the Q&A for the one sold by Amazon claims it does not have a USB port. That would be very unusual.
I just purchased an Artillery SW X1 - thinking, it should be easy to use. Should have realized I'm not really that savvy with technology, but yet here I am with a 3d Printer I have no clue what I'm I'm doing. I learned about slicer software and what not; I downloaded a .stl file from thingiverse thinking it should be an easy print after successfully assembling the printer and printing the cube sample. Now in attempting this new .stl file of a water well miniature, it seems when I selected print, it wants to print on the left front corner. Is there a simple solution to this? How do I get this file to print in the middle of the printer bed? HELP! :(
@DrVax Hello Dr Vax, I have a print quality questions. I have a Ender 5 printer and I am using Simplified 3D slicer. Do you know the correct value settings for this 3d printer? My prints have strings and small bumps. I tried to increase filiment retraction speed and it did help a little but its not enough to get rid of both issues.
If you bought a new printer and you were trying to tweak it a little to perform better how would you go about it? what kind of test print would you use? is there any good rule of thumb for the different printing setting that is most common to set the values to? I only print with PLA so the setting would be dialed in to that kind of filament.
What would you recomend with bed and extruder temperatures? I set mine to 70c for bed and 195c extruder.
Any guidenance on setting the best printing values, I would greatly appriciate it.
Thank You
Sidney
@Sidney King All of your questions are good and to completely cover all of them would take pages.
First, while I own a copy of Simplify 3d I really do not use it much. I recommend for your first print download a free copy of Cura 4.4. The Ender 5 profile in Cura 4.4 is a great starting point. Second, you need to make sure you are using a good quality filament when you first get started since the problem you described could be caused by the characteristics of your filament. I like MatterHacker Build PLA and Hatchbox PLA for beginners.
The only thing I might change for my first prints is the extruder temperature. I think the default might be 200c, I obtain good results at 205 -- when stringing is not a concern.
Next, do not increase the default printer speed until you have mastered your printer. Speed causes print defects if your printer is not tuned properly.
Finally, watch lots of videos on this channel and others. I have over 100 videos which will cover most of your questions. Bumps may be caused by seams, by temperature (when printing too hot -- which I do not think is the cause for you), by the quality of the filament, by extrusion multiples, and other parameters. This is why I would start with a baseline of Cura 4.4 with the standard draft profile for the Ender 5.
Enjoy your new hobby. Irv
DrVax Thank you
Sir my 3d printer missed the time estimation every time I save a g-code code
Where can I get octoprint wifi for my cr-10 printer?
I'm using simplify 3D for the Micro Swiss hot end kit. where can I get the g-code to set it up at the proper temp.
can a gcode created on one printer, say ender 3 pro, be used on a different printer, say Prusa MK3S?
Please share all the Codes i mean the link for the same..
How do you save a new g-code for all your future prints.
Just save from your slicer to a directory on your PC or MAC and move these with file explorer to the SD card or via USB as needed.
I have two ender printers. Both use Marlin firmware. On the ender 3 neo I can put G-Code on a card and plug it in and it works fine. But on the ender 3 Max neo the g code gets ignored. That's because the version of Merlin is different and the ender 3 Max neo needs all the comments that the slicer makes. If you don't have the comments of telling it it's Marlin, how many layers, x y and z Max, and a bunch of other stuff the G-Code you put on the SD card will not work.
As a noob to 3D printing, I try to stay out of the weeds ... at least until at such time I really am forced to.
Looks like I am forced to... :(
I obtained an obj file from the internet and no matter what slicer I use when I send the gcode to the printer the print does not start in the center of the plate it starts half hanging off a corner, ruining the print. Which is weird because the object is centered in the slicer software and EVERY single slice I do with the same settings works fine.
It is almost as if the obj code has some ability to alter what the slicer says on positioning... ugh.
I've got an ender 3 pro printer, I was using cura 3.21 slicer which gave me a G code output file: then upgraded to cura 4 only to find cura 4 gives an output code that the Ender doesn't recognize. is there a way to convert to G code or make Cura 4 to output G code?
Interesting. I use Circa 4.2 with both my ender 3 and ender 5 all of the time. How do you know you have a problem?
What's the name of the file it outputs? usually, it will be blah-blah.gcode I'm interested to know what file type you are outputting
Excellent question.
@@MakeWithTech Thanks for your response. the file has a .UFP extension
@@foxabilo Thanks for the response. the file output gives a .UFP file
💕👍
is there a way to turn off the bed temperature down or turn off after let say 1 hour or 2 hours or 1 day?
i have a bending problem and this comes from the bed temperature and the fan on my chiron.
i will appreciate any help. thanks!
CONFUSED, Says F3000, you say that's 300 mm per min. Isn't it 3000 mm per min???
6:07 You say 300 mm/s but write 3000mm/s twice
G0 is Raped
G1 is incromentle move (between 2 points)
sorry about my spelling, i am dialectics
Thanks for sharing.
I am a Machinist, I use g-code all the time
iNTERESTING
If you have an Anycubic Kobra DO NOT AUTOLEVEL your bed as it resets the Z Offset to 0
ITS NOT GOING TO EXTRUDE ANYTHING UNLESS YOU HEAT THE NOZZLE UP!!!
actually geometric code goes go way back to Ancient Egypt A0745 BC we were more advanced back then ! (HARD TO BELIEVE ?)And if you cant swallow that one, then you believe they did all those fancy granite boxes and wall trims by hammer and chisel right? and when I refer to more advance, well try cutting a slab of granite now adays?//ha!! and see if you get the same results?
y is up and down
Is the American pronunciation of axis 'access'? It made me wince every time.
Nope. Just marbled in my mouth.
nerd