I got it from Hans Auto parts (see controversial topic in next comment). Search for "pump head" I think you need a rotor (1 item) a conversion kit (1 item) and the pump head (1 item).
Ok, also, update I guess Hans is (kinda) well known to sell shit parts 🫣😕 at least on TDI forums. We'll see how these parts end up working since they're already bought and installed 🧐🧐🧐
@@OliverFetter Rabbit stuff is OK but later model stuff is probably not good. BRM cam and lifters are total Shite. Most of the older rabbit stuff is fairly good but you might need to take it apart and fix it yourself to get it right. Have one of his turbo kits and it has over 40k miles on it no issues. Injection pumps some good some bad. but usually if you are savvy you can take it apart and fix it yourself and make it work if you have an issue.
Oliver, your videos are a tremendous contribution to the VW IDI community. I know you're not getting a massive number of views right off the bat, but these are going to be reference materials for wrench twisters like us for years and years to come. Thanks, dude!
Thanks for the video. I have an '85 Mitsubishi Pajero with the 4D56T that runs a bosch type injector pump. A local shop made a right mess of it, damaging the housing and then setting the pump up in such a way that the vehicle can barely do 80 km/h. I fiddled with a few things like fuel delivery valve and boost compensator diaphragm mod, but I discovered the pump is cocked over so far advanced that it is fouling against the timing belt cover. I can't mess with the fuel delivery any more as the idle gets too high and that opens up a whole new can of worms. While my efforts mean I can at least see 100km/h she gets up there on the EGTs and with a few other things I've noticed, I think I have some more investigating to do. I then did some more research 2 days ago, because I thought the fuel cut of solenoid was faulty as it wasn't shutting off, but this turned out to be a problem with the alternator, which is fixed now. In my research I found that no one in South Africa has any info on my specific pump number, which makes me think the shop that 'fixed' it also doesn't have the info so they simply cobbled it together with some parts lying around. I had sent the pump out of town before them but the shop didn't have any info on it and sent it back in a parts bag. This is what makes me think the shop that assembled it for me just guessed what went in this specific pump, set it up as best as they could on their test bench and that was that. At least your videos I have watched has given me some confidence to at least see what pump head is in my unit.
Dang! Sorry to hear that. I'd highly recommend the website I put in the description!! Shows complete assembly & part order. I'm glad these vids can help 🤘
Cool! I DD an 81 rabbit with 1.6L TD with all the correct stock mk1 TD parts under the hood. Has a few tricks done but nothing crazy, its a daily. Like the York logo, have a lot of York related items even Steuben Mtrs, pre York.
That's awesome! They're still pretty fun stock 😁 You're the first to pick out the York logo. I pulled this car out of a barn in Pennsylvania and it seemed fitting to leave the sticker on it.
@@OliverFetter I’d be curious to see how it turns out. The metering sleeve for the 1.6 doesn’t have the same stroke as the TDI. I have an AHU that id love to run with a 1.6pump/10mm head without having to modify the fulcrum lever.
Absolutely awesome channel! My high school son and his friends want to build an off road vehicle with a 750 Kawasaki…..and I’m pushing them to go with a VW 1.9 or 1.6. My gut tells me a 1.6 with a mechanical pump vs a 1.9……thoughts?
Thanks! That's awesome. Certainly sticking to a full mechanical motor will be easier to swap into something. I've started a 1.6 in a snow bank once lol all you need is 12v to the fuel solenoid & 12v to the starter!!
See how it runs on stock timing and maybe a touch more advance - after that you may want to try the advance plunger extension to get some more dynamic advance as rpms rise.
hi! Could you tell me if your VW head pump is right or left? I want to buy one through Ali Express but I don't know what direction of rotation it has! thank you, very good videos! Greetings from Uruguay
FYI you should do a driving video after the mods you did. Then post it. Then download the footage from this video do a re-edit of this and the other. I do that and they go pretty big. Just put the footage together and talk about the problems between you might have had.
@@OliverFetter Trust me!!!! you will do well on these kinds of videos. Make them like you are then put 2 or 3 together with FULL BUILD.....will help pay for the hobby.
Any updates on how the pumped performed? I tried something of the same on a 1.6td pump using an 11mm from a 1.9tdi ahu pump. After about 2 to 3 weeks, the rpm started to gradually go up and up, and i had to back out the throttle screw and the fuel screw to lower rpms until i couldnt anymore. Just checking how did yours go??
Hey! Still working good over here 👍👍👍 that sounds like a really odd problem ⁉️ I've probably put about 250 miles on it and it's still running mint. I do have a test drive video as well if you're keen 😁
@@Derick-m1h To be clear I currently have a 1.6 pump with an 11mm (1.9L) plunger still installed on my 1.6. Its my eventual plan to move the modded (MTDI) 1.6 pump over to a 1.9L. Are you saying you currently have the MTDI pump on a 1.9 or a 1.6? I would think you'd want to keep the 1.9l injector pressure.
This might be a noob question but isnt changing to a bigger plunger just the same as increasing fuel supply on the max power fuel screw? For exemple, a 10mm with increased fuel screw would deliver the same fuel as 11mm with stock fuel screw no? Thanks
Hi! Good question. I didn't understand this till recently... Technically you're correct. A 9mm pump with the power screw cranked down can deliver (volumetrically speaking) the same amount as a 10mm plunger with a minimum setting (hypothetically here bc I've never measured output volume). BUT, the period in which the 9mm injects that fuel will be WAY longer for the same volume than the 10mm because you are increasing fuel delivery by increasing injection duration 🫡 the more you turn the power/fuel screw the longer the control collar covers the spill ports 👍 thus a 10 or 11mm plunger provides crispy injection events & lots of fuel. Also idt my 9mm maxed out could touch the 11mm on a low setting 💁
Hey Oliver! I saw you got a VNT. I've created a Arduino based controller for my 1.6D (Golf Mk1 just like yours). Gives super fast spools. Could send you one for free & help you set it up. What do you think ;))?
That's cool!! Currently building an Arduino as well 😁 pretty fun stuff. What inputs did you use to control vane position?? I'm starting with manifold pressure as my only input, but it seems like maybe pedal position will be needed too? That's dope you've got it to work
@OliverFetter In the carputer.ino you can find the configuration variables for what boost to control to. Mine is set very conservatively because I don’t want to blow up the engine,lol. Basically 7psi max. Yours would probably look like this; //I only close mine max 60%, see reasons in the codecomment, but you can close yours 100% for max spools #define VNT_SETPOINT_POWER 1.00f; //This variable defines when the Ecu “panics” and opens the turbo to prevent overboost //Set this to the max value you ever want to see (including while spiking) #define BOOST_MAX_SPEC_KPA 2000.0 //2 bar or 30psi //This variable sets the desired boost which the controller will try to keep it on, should be lower than the max_spec to account for spiking #define BOOST_DESIRED_SPEC_KPA 1500.0 //1.5bar or 22psi
That's awesome! Yeah lol I feel you definitely learned the hard way that having the vanes too closed = bad 😓🤦 With your current setup (input = boost pressure), does your turbo always hold 7 psi? Ie if you're just cruising down the highway at 50mph are you still seeing 7psi? How does it drive? Nice work!
People talk all bad about Proth.....(aka Hans auto parts) but they are really one of the only people selling parts for these older cars. For late models. NOOOOOOO.....but for early cars they are the ticket.
Hey looks like my messages are not coming through, is there some other way to contact you? I got a git repository with documentation on the hardware and software for the Arduino
@@OliverFetter I know his parts have blown up quite a few cars. Only thing i have personal experience with is the tdi downpipes from them and that things cracked in like 6 places
Can you link the part you bought 😊
I got it from Hans Auto parts (see controversial topic in next comment). Search for "pump head" I think you need a rotor (1 item) a conversion kit (1 item) and the pump head (1 item).
Ok, also, update I guess Hans is (kinda) well known to sell shit parts 🫣😕 at least on TDI forums. We'll see how these parts end up working since they're already bought and installed 🧐🧐🧐
@@OliverFetter Rabbit stuff is OK but later model stuff is probably not good. BRM cam and lifters are total Shite. Most of the older rabbit stuff is fairly good but you might need to take it apart and fix it yourself to get it right. Have one of his turbo kits and it has over 40k miles on it no issues. Injection pumps some good some bad. but usually if you are savvy you can take it apart and fix it yourself and make it work if you have an issue.
Oliver, your videos are a tremendous contribution to the VW IDI community. I know you're not getting a massive number of views right off the bat, but these are going to be reference materials for wrench twisters like us for years and years to come.
Thanks, dude!
I appreciate the shit out of that 🌞 thanks man. Stoked to share & get these things more dialed!!
Thanks for the video. I have an '85 Mitsubishi Pajero with the 4D56T that runs a bosch type injector pump. A local shop made a right mess of it, damaging the housing and then setting the pump up in such a way that the vehicle can barely do 80 km/h.
I fiddled with a few things like fuel delivery valve and boost compensator diaphragm mod, but I discovered the pump is cocked over so far advanced that it is fouling against the timing belt cover. I can't mess with the fuel delivery any more as the idle gets too high and that opens up a whole new can of worms. While my efforts mean I can at least see 100km/h she gets up there on the EGTs and with a few other things I've noticed, I think I have some more investigating to do.
I then did some more research 2 days ago, because I thought the fuel cut of solenoid was faulty as it wasn't shutting off, but this turned out to be a problem with the alternator, which is fixed now.
In my research I found that no one in South Africa has any info on my specific pump number, which makes me think the shop that 'fixed' it also doesn't have the info so they simply cobbled it together with some parts lying around. I had sent the pump out of town before them but the shop didn't have any info on it and sent it back in a parts bag. This is what makes me think the shop that assembled it for me just guessed what went in this specific pump, set it up as best as they could on their test bench and that was that.
At least your videos I have watched has given me some confidence to at least see what pump head is in my unit.
Dang! Sorry to hear that. I'd highly recommend the website I put in the description!! Shows complete assembly & part order. I'm glad these vids can help 🤘
Good job can't wait to see the results..
Me too 😁 lots of new things on this rebuild
Cool!
I DD an 81 rabbit with 1.6L TD with all the correct stock mk1 TD parts under the hood. Has a few tricks done but nothing crazy, its a daily. Like the York logo, have a lot of York related items even Steuben Mtrs, pre York.
That's awesome! They're still pretty fun stock 😁 You're the first to pick out the York logo. I pulled this car out of a barn in Pennsylvania and it seemed fitting to leave the sticker on it.
this is the moment i was wating for!
😁😁😁
Since most of the internals are TDI now, would a build like this work as an mTDI pump? 1.6 pump, TDI cam plate, plunger, and delivery valves.
Yes absolutely. It is technically an mTDI. I'm going to try it out when I put the ALH in to confirm.
@@OliverFetter I’d be curious to see how it turns out. The metering sleeve for the 1.6 doesn’t have the same stroke as the TDI. I have an AHU that id love to run with a 1.6pump/10mm head without having to modify the fulcrum lever.
Absolutely awesome channel! My high school son and his friends want to build an off road vehicle with a 750 Kawasaki…..and I’m pushing them to go with a VW 1.9 or 1.6. My gut tells me a 1.6 with a mechanical pump vs a 1.9……thoughts?
Thanks! That's awesome. Certainly sticking to a full mechanical motor will be easier to swap into something. I've started a 1.6 in a snow bank once lol all you need is 12v to the fuel solenoid & 12v to the starter!!
See how it runs on stock timing and maybe a touch more advance - after that you may want to try the advance plunger extension to get some more dynamic advance as rpms rise.
Will do!
hi! Could you tell me if your VW head pump is right or left? I want to buy one through Ali Express but I don't know what direction of rotation it has! thank you, very good videos! Greetings from Uruguay
Hi! My pump turns clockwise when looking at the input shaft face. 👍👍
FYI you should do a driving video after the mods you did. Then post it. Then download the footage from this video do a re-edit of this and the other. I do that and they go pretty big. Just put the footage together and talk about the problems between you might have had.
That's a good call. Thanks!
@@OliverFetter Trust me!!!! you will do well on these kinds of videos. Make them like you are then put 2 or 3 together with FULL BUILD.....will help pay for the hobby.
🙏🙏
Hell yea keep it up 😀
Thanks!!
Any updates on how the pumped performed? I tried something of the same on a 1.6td pump using an 11mm from a 1.9tdi ahu pump. After about 2 to 3 weeks, the rpm started to gradually go up and up, and i had to back out the throttle screw and the fuel screw to lower rpms until i couldnt anymore. Just checking how did yours go??
Hey! Still working good over here 👍👍👍 that sounds like a really odd problem ⁉️ I've probably put about 250 miles on it and it's still running mint. I do have a test drive video as well if you're keen 😁
Do you have that video posted up?
And one question, since I have a 1.9tdi engine and put a 1.6 td pump on it, would I need to change injectors pressure?
@@Derick-m1h yes, check ua-cam.com/video/3GZgksvQgrA/v-deo.htmlsi=tF1bCqgGVokJ8VGa
@@Derick-m1h To be clear I currently have a 1.6 pump with an 11mm (1.9L) plunger still installed on my 1.6. Its my eventual plan to move the modded (MTDI) 1.6 pump over to a 1.9L. Are you saying you currently have the MTDI pump on a 1.9 or a 1.6? I would think you'd want to keep the 1.9l injector pressure.
This might be a noob question but isnt changing to a bigger plunger just the same as increasing fuel supply on the max power fuel screw? For exemple, a 10mm with increased fuel screw would deliver the same fuel as 11mm with stock fuel screw no? Thanks
Hi! Good question. I didn't understand this till recently... Technically you're correct. A 9mm pump with the power screw cranked down can deliver (volumetrically speaking) the same amount as a 10mm plunger with a minimum setting (hypothetically here bc I've never measured output volume). BUT, the period in which the 9mm injects that fuel will be WAY longer for the same volume than the 10mm because you are increasing fuel delivery by increasing injection duration 🫡 the more you turn the power/fuel screw the longer the control collar covers the spill ports 👍 thus a 10 or 11mm plunger provides crispy injection events & lots of fuel. Also idt my 9mm maxed out could touch the 11mm on a low setting 💁
wow man thats ace!!
"Special word of caution" lol
Hey Oliver! I saw you got a VNT. I've created a Arduino based controller for my 1.6D (Golf Mk1 just like yours). Gives super fast spools. Could send you one for free & help you set it up. What do you think ;))?
That's cool!! Currently building an Arduino as well 😁 pretty fun stuff. What inputs did you use to control vane position?? I'm starting with manifold pressure as my only input, but it seems like maybe pedal position will be needed too? That's dope you've got it to work
@OliverFetter In the carputer.ino you can find the configuration variables for what boost to control to. Mine is set very conservatively because I don’t want to blow up the engine,lol. Basically 7psi max.
Yours would probably look like this;
//I only close mine max 60%, see reasons in the codecomment, but you can close yours 100% for max spools
#define VNT_SETPOINT_POWER 1.00f;
//This variable defines when the Ecu “panics” and opens the turbo to prevent overboost
//Set this to the max value you ever want to see (including while spiking)
#define BOOST_MAX_SPEC_KPA 2000.0 //2 bar or 30psi
//This variable sets the desired boost which the controller will try to keep it on, should be lower than the max_spec to account for spiking
#define BOOST_DESIRED_SPEC_KPA 1500.0 //1.5bar or 22psi
That's awesome! Yeah lol I feel you definitely learned the hard way that having the vanes too closed = bad 😓🤦 With your current setup (input = boost pressure), does your turbo always hold 7 psi? Ie if you're just cruising down the highway at 50mph are you still seeing 7psi? How does it drive? Nice work!
chat.whatsapp.com/CkfGCJmSrJjDkW9nz8iIKr
People talk all bad about Proth.....(aka Hans auto parts) but they are really one of the only people selling parts for these older cars. For late models. NOOOOOOO.....but for early cars they are the ticket.
Yeah I've heard lots of bad things but my pump head is still working fine so 💁💁💁💁👍
@OliverFetter How many miles does the Hans pump head have on it?
@@jamesmosher6130 about 400ish (can you tell i dont drive it that often??)
Hey looks like my messages are not coming through, is there some other way to contact you? I got a git repository with documentation on the hardware and software for the Arduino
You can find me on Facebook! Thank you!
Actually!! Try this: chat.whatsapp.com/CkfGCJmSrJjDkW9nz8iIKr
Hans auto parts is very well known garbage parts peddler I would stay away from them. Take a look around about em.
Interesting 🤔
Damn honestly ya hate to see it 😬 guess we'll see if it works or not 😅😅
@@OliverFetter if it works for you oh well. I’ve read a bunch of stuff about how terrible the parts are
Yeah I just read up as well
@@OliverFetter I know his parts have blown up quite a few cars. Only thing i have personal experience with is the tdi downpipes from them and that things cracked in like 6 places