Loved the "Grippy Finish" because a knife is often used with wet hands in the outdoors or even the kitchen. Thank You also for reminding the viewers about the seriousness of working around G10 dust. A lot of folks throw out the name G10 and forget that the 'G' stands for Glass and the dust from working it can be as dangerous for your lungs and eyes as working with any fiberglass. Stay Safe Everybody
My go-to finishing process for handles lately, particularly for plastic materials like G10 or resins, is to sand to 400 grit and then coat it with a paste finishing wax. I've found that this gives a nice semi-gloss luster after hand buffing the wax and leaving the sanding at 400 leaves just enough surface roughness for the wax to stick nicely. The wax leaves an ever-so-slightly tacky feeling to the handle so it doesn't slide around in the hand. Then if it ever starts looking dull or feeling slippery, you can just throw on a new coat of wax.
@@forgeworks3176 Thx....Just Aluminium Oxide? Right... Only Problem I have is crosscontamination... Thats why I stopped blasting....didnt wanna Switch Media .... Annoying to have tiny Rust dots on stainless Steel when the Media was used on high carb Steel before....
@@forgeworks3176 Well Just thought about a little more...the Problem occured when I blasted regular Steel before.... Hmmm....might explain the rusty dots....on stainless later on
You should try "stippling". (Using a fine tipped soldering iron to create divots). People, I hear, do it to their pistol grips for superior grip retention. 😜
Yeah but IT Takes forever depending on the handle size....n Not Sure If IT works on G10 n such....works on thuse plastic crap some use...Like Becker...Kabar does ...but yeah feels n Looks nice....
Man where did you find that flexible 3M sand paper?? I got some on clearance at a bigbox store a few years ago and absolutely love it for handles, but now i cant find it.😢 Sunce i dont know what it really was its a bit tricky to find. Lol.. but what you used is the same stuff i love.
Is it possible to use the laser to give some subtle jimpingv(cross cross pattern) the first 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch just beyond the beautiful blue handle?
Not anything that you could feel. Any laser operation that would do that will heat up the steel to the point of significant compromise to the scale adhesion. It would likely require touch up afterwards if you did do it. These low power lasers are only a finishing process, not a manufacturing process 👍
@@Simplelittlelife Thanks for the answers, it is a beutiful knife, and I am happy that the really thin point survived. I wish I had the knowledge and esthetic that You have and the time and funds to start making my own knives, have to wait for retirement in a couple of years. Forging seems to be harder to get in to, so either commission blades later on or store-bought to start with and then move over to stock removal, seems to be a good middle ground for a hobbyist. Are not aiming for a commercial path just try out some designs. Then there is the sheet making.....
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Loved the "Grippy Finish" because a knife is often used with wet hands in the outdoors or even the kitchen. Thank You also for reminding the viewers about the seriousness of working around G10 dust. A lot of folks throw out the name G10 and forget that the 'G' stands for Glass and the dust from working it can be as dangerous for your lungs and eyes as working with any fiberglass. Stay Safe Everybody
My go-to finishing process for handles lately, particularly for plastic materials like G10 or resins, is to sand to 400 grit and then coat it with a paste finishing wax. I've found that this gives a nice semi-gloss luster after hand buffing the wax and leaving the sanding at 400 leaves just enough surface roughness for the wax to stick nicely. The wax leaves an ever-so-slightly tacky feeling to the handle so it doesn't slide around in the hand. Then if it ever starts looking dull or feeling slippery, you can just throw on a new coat of wax.
That knife is gorgeous! I love kwaiken style knives. You are a true master at your craft.
I sandblast nearly all my handels huge time saver and it also gives the G10 an awesome look and feel
May I ask what Grit U are using?thx
@@fredb7814 120 grit than sandblasting even 100 grit works just fine
@@forgeworks3176 Thx....Just Aluminium Oxide? Right... Only Problem I have is crosscontamination... Thats why I stopped blasting....didnt wanna Switch Media .... Annoying to have tiny Rust dots on stainless Steel when the Media was used on high carb Steel before....
@@fredb7814 never had that issue i always use cereamic belts and than blasting doesn’t matter which steel
@@forgeworks3176 Well Just thought about a little more...the Problem occured when I blasted regular Steel before.... Hmmm....might explain the rusty dots....on stainless later on
Dude! I love the design or this knife!
Thanks buddy!👍
lovely lovely finish and love the blue g10
You should try "stippling". (Using a fine tipped soldering iron to create divots). People, I hear, do it to their pistol grips for superior grip retention. 😜
Yeah but IT Takes forever depending on the handle size....n Not Sure If IT works on G10 n such....works on thuse plastic crap some use...Like Becker...Kabar does ...but yeah feels n Looks nice....
Does this work on g10?
That’s a brilliant idea!
☠️
@@wat5213no it doesnt
Great video, loving the audio on this video. been a fan for years. You're a true inspiration in my knife making journey.
That turned out great 👍 I will be trying the bead blasting for sure…thanks
Love the finish, you could add a nice round divot where the first pin is so the kydex could sit down into it for better retention
Thanks! Oh yeah that’s a great idea! Thanks👍
Love seeing new content! Cheers, awesome video sir.
Thank you so much! I really appreciate that. Cheers👍
Ur knives are stylish ❤
Thank you!
I am 100% gonna try this now
Right on buddy!👍
Exce;;emnt work as always 👍👍
Thank you 👍
Man where did you find that flexible 3M sand paper?? I got some on clearance at a bigbox store a few years ago and absolutely love it for handles, but now i cant find it.😢 Sunce i dont know what it really was its a bit tricky to find. Lol.. but what you used is the same stuff i love.
Is it possible to use the laser to give some subtle jimpingv(cross cross pattern) the first 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch just beyond the beautiful blue handle?
Not anything that you could feel. Any laser operation that would do that will heat up the steel to the point of significant compromise to the scale adhesion. It would likely require touch up afterwards if you did do it. These low power lasers are only a finishing process, not a manufacturing process 👍
@@Simplelittlelife Thanks for the answers, it is a beutiful knife, and I am happy that the really thin point survived. I wish I had the knowledge and esthetic that You have and the time and funds to start making my own knives, have to wait for retirement in a couple of years. Forging seems to be harder to get in to, so either commission blades later on or store-bought to start with and then move over to stock removal, seems to be a good middle ground for a hobbyist. Are not aiming for a commercial path just try out some designs. Then there is the sheet making.....
What tumbler do you have? I want to buy one but worried about what the longest knife that will fit.
Doesn’t sandblasting render metal extremely prone to rust if left untreated/(unpainted in other cases)
For some steels it would but this is Nitro-V. Also, the ceramic media tumble afterwards creates a much smoother finishing than the raw sandblasting.
How would one order a blade from you state side?
Just via my website. 95% of my blades are purchased into the USA👍
What laser are you using
How much $ I love that knife
Thank you! I have it listed here: homesteadknives.com/products/blue-utility-sliver Cheers👍
Is this ultrex g10?
What laser?
Laser where?
You laser your logo and the steel on the spine.
Arguing with my girl is like a butter knife. Pointless.
Hahahaha! Indeed😆
Hi, This blade design is really cool, I like it remains nordic slojd style knifes, that are used carving wood up here north (google slojd knives).
Thanks for the info!