Hi, As I said before your videos are really good. I'm just putting my new chains and tensioners in. A slight differense on my '97 engine is that the primary tensioners had a spacer plate between them and the engine. These must NOT be refitted as my new metal tensioners are thicker. Also, the old tensioners had a slightly convex piston end pressing on the slot in the guide, which has resulted in a concave wear of the guide. The new metal ones have a flat piston end pressing on a flat area of the new guides, so should be more efficient. I bought all the recommended tools and so far, so good; all your tips have been so helpful. Concerning the crankshaft pulley bolt tension, that, as you said, is unbelievably tight. I wasn't sure if it was undoing or whether my T bar was just bending. I will finish with the sump removal and clean as I have aleady found bits of the secondary tensioners in the chain cover. Thank you so much. Kind regards John Coveney
John, Good point about the spacer and the new tensioners come with the shorter bolts. The crankshaft bolt is not for the faint hearted. I needed a very long lever to undo mine2, but relief when it started to turn. Thanks for the compliment and feedback. Much appreciated regards Damian
hi i was just fitting the secondary metal tensioners and the original bolts are too long . in the kit i only have new bolts in the main tensioners bag but no new bolts for the secondary tensioners apart from the original ones which are too long . should i have received 8 new bolts ?
So the passenger side didn't move, the driver side did a little. I marked the VVT and the cam before I took it apart. I just want to make sure I get it right the first time. Cams are locked down. please excuse me if I'm not getting it. This is my first time. My wife said I was spending a lot of money this month on the Jag. I told her it was cheaper than a years worth of Lap Dances.. She came back and said "Baby you spend that money on the Jag. ha ha ha!@@ODRModurol
@@ODRModurol I got it now. Once again thank you. Very Big help. I appreciate the fast response getting back to me. All my Jag friends know about your channel and I brag on you. Thanks again Vince
Vincent, no problem, glad you got it sorted. Glad to hear the Jags keeping you on the straight and narrow. The wife must be glad the cars keeping you out of trouble, for the moment😉. Kind regards Damian
Ahmed, to honest not got any experience of the failure myself. If you tried the engine once the chain failed the some of the values will have hit the top of the cylinders. That will result in some damage to those parts. In which case will need an engine rebuild. Very costly and you will never be sure if you’ve missed something or left some fragments in there. Probably more straightforward and cheaper to fit a good second hand engine and fit new timing gear to this new engine. Sorry I don’t think any solution is cheap or cheerful. Sorry can’t give you any good news. Let us know how you get on. Thanks for the comment regards Damian
I am not following the purpose of the wedges at the 5:17 point in your video. The manual says to use 1 or 2 and it does not specify the thickness of the wedges. Are they simply to take up slack as you tighten the exhaust sprocket, while the primary tensioner is fully compressed? I don't have the tool kits, I have been fabricating things as I need them. Could these wedges be anything that will take up the slack?
Jim, you are correct they are just there to take up the stack in the primary chain without the primary chain tensioners being used (they should have there locks still in). I believe they are wedges as the length of the chain will vary slightly with new each chain and different manufacturers tolerances. So yes anything will do as long as it takes up the slack. Hope it’s going well. Thanks for the comment regards Damian
@@ODRModurol I got the chains on this afternoon. No room for wedges on this set, the chains are as tight as banjo strings. SO much so that it made me look it over very closely to ensure everything is in the right place with the chains in the grooves in the guides and all. Before installing I was worried that there would be too much slack.
Hi mate i got an stype 4.2 v8 and i need to remove the heads beacuse my gasket are gone ....im worried about this fittings about vvt and ratrd amd advacnced do you know where can i read or see more in detail about it plz
Costil, start with the engine and transmission manual drive.google.com/file/d/1pDzWVGczjT1AdvwgCAmYZsqIut7PpR9p/view If this doen't give you the info let us know. Thank for the comment regards Damian
Great video ! I just did the chains and tensioners on my 2000 xk8 everything went smooth and I bought all the special tools . After I installed everything I removed the camshaft locking tools and the flex plate locking tool as well , turn the engine manually and after one turn the camshaft flats o NOT line up anymore. Do you know if this is normal due to the cvvt or do you think I messed up the timing on the engine ? Thanks in advance.
Gabriel, the one set of cam shafts do rotate slightly due to value spring pressure. Forgot whether it was inlet or exhaust but one moves when you release the cam locks. You should be able to refit the crankshaft and cam locks without issue.. it will compress the value springs on the cam the moved and put it the right place. If you can’t then I think you have an issue with the timing and will need to loosen the sockets off and try again. Hope that helps, thanks for the comment regards Damian
Gabriel, take a look at this thread www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk8-xkr-x100-17/rhs-exhaust-cam-moving-after-cam-locks-removed-231237/ Hope that helps, Thanks Damian
@@ODRModurol thanks Damián I will look into that once I get home tonight, I also have one more question , when replacing the plastic primary tensioners with the upgrade aluminum, do you still need to use the metal plates between the block and the new tensioners or you can just install the new tensioners without it ?
Grabriel, correct you don’t need the spacer blocks under the tensioners as this already incorporated in the later metal tensioner design hence the different length bolts are required. Hope that helps, regards Damian
Todd, I decided on buying the guides that were the same design as the ones I removed. Bought them from SNG Barrett. Should have bought their mid range kit which includes that original design as standard. Lesson learnt, thanks for the comment, Damian. www.sngbarratt.com/English/#/uk/FindParts/Families/XK8%20~2F%20XKR/11/XK8%20~2F%20XKR%20-%20To%201999/48/ENGINE/3197/assembly/9738
@@ODRModurol I have a 2000 S type with the 4.0. I locked the cams with the same tool as you and locked the crank as well. I marked the vvt sprockets before I removed them to make sure they go back on the same spot they came off. I am confused on your video due to retarding and advancing the vvt units. I still have the cover off my car. I reinstalled new chains, tensioners and guides. The vvt on this car are the newer ones, I think you referred to as binary in Ep 22. Everything went back together easy. The tool the kit provided will not fit in the hole of the vvt unit. My question is one how tight should the chains be? There is hardly any slack on either side of the long chains. Second, why is it important to retard or advance them? Is this necessary?
Chris, the spockets aren’t keyed to the cams so you just need to tension the chain as you tighten them to remove any slack. The primary large chain was tight for me especially with the tensioner in place. The VVT units have two spockets which move relative to get other. One sprocket on each chain. You need to sure these are in the ‘normal’ retarded position before tightening. If it isn’t the sprockets could be out of synic/advanced and therefore the timing will be out on that bank of cylinders. The VVT have a spring return to retarded position so the chance is slight but still possible. Hence the need to double check. Sorry I don’t have the CVVT units but the idea is the same. Hope that helps thanks Damian
Chris, apologies new ground for me. You are trying to move one sprocket relative to the other so in theory just need to hold one and move the other using the tool or other method. Sorry I don’t have any direct experience of these CVVT units to help with any details. Thanks Damian
Hi,
As I said before your videos are really good. I'm just putting my new chains and tensioners in. A slight differense on my '97 engine is that the primary tensioners had a spacer plate between them and the engine. These must NOT be refitted as my new metal tensioners are thicker. Also, the old tensioners had a slightly convex piston end pressing on the slot in the guide, which has resulted in a concave wear of the guide. The new metal ones have a flat piston end pressing on a flat area of the new guides, so should be more efficient. I bought all the recommended tools and so far, so good; all your tips have been so helpful. Concerning the crankshaft pulley bolt tension, that, as you said, is unbelievably tight. I wasn't sure if it was undoing or whether my T bar was just bending. I will finish with the sump removal and clean as I have aleady found bits of the secondary tensioners in the chain cover.
Thank you so much.
Kind regards
John Coveney
John, Good point about the spacer and the new tensioners come with the shorter bolts. The crankshaft bolt is not for the faint hearted. I needed a very long lever to undo mine2, but relief when it started to turn. Thanks for the compliment and feedback. Much appreciated regards Damian
Hopefully, touch wood!
Stephen, Thanks for your comment, regards Damian
hi i was just fitting the secondary metal tensioners and the original bolts are too long . in the kit i only have new bolts in the main tensioners bag but no new bolts for the secondary tensioners apart from the original ones which are too long . should i have received 8 new bolts ?
Derek, yes, you should have received shorter bolts, regards Damian
Not sure I am doing this right. the main timing chain is off. are the VVT bolt tight?
Vincent, the VVT bolts are not very tight but are secure. Easy to remove as the cams should be locked. What is your concern? Regards Damian
So the passenger side didn't move, the driver side did a little. I marked the VVT and the cam before I took it apart. I just want to make sure I get it right the first time. Cams are locked down. please excuse me if I'm not getting it. This is my first time.
My wife said I was spending a lot of money this month on the Jag. I told her it was cheaper than a years worth of Lap Dances..
She came back and said "Baby you spend that money on the Jag. ha ha ha!@@ODRModurol
@@ODRModurol I got it now. Once again thank you. Very Big help. I appreciate the fast response getting back to me. All my Jag friends know about your channel and I brag on you. Thanks again Vince
Vincent, no problem, glad you got it sorted. Glad to hear the Jags keeping you on the straight and narrow. The wife must be glad the cars keeping you out of trouble, for the moment😉. Kind regards Damian
my dear
I have a JAGUAR XJ8 cam timing chain failure my dear
Tried twice and the engine didn't work
can you help me
Ahmed, to honest not got any experience of the failure myself. If you tried the engine once the chain failed the some of the values will have hit the top of the cylinders. That will result in some damage to those parts. In which case will need an engine rebuild. Very costly and you will never be sure if you’ve missed something or left some fragments in there. Probably more straightforward and cheaper to fit a good second hand engine and fit new timing gear to this new engine. Sorry I don’t think any solution is cheap or cheerful. Sorry can’t give you any good news. Let us know how you get on. Thanks for the comment regards Damian
I am not following the purpose of the wedges at the 5:17 point in your video. The manual says to use 1 or 2 and it does not specify the thickness of the wedges. Are they simply to take up slack as you tighten the exhaust sprocket, while the primary tensioner is fully compressed? I don't have the tool kits, I have been fabricating things as I need them. Could these wedges be anything that will take up the slack?
Jim, you are correct they are just there to take up the stack in the primary chain without the primary chain tensioners being used (they should have there locks still in). I believe they are wedges as the length of the chain will vary slightly with new each chain and different manufacturers tolerances. So yes anything will do as long as it takes up the slack. Hope it’s going well. Thanks for the comment regards Damian
@@ODRModurol thank you for the response and relaying your experience.
Jim, no problem it’s a pleasure. Fellow amateur mechanics and enthusiasts working together👍 Thanks for the comment regards Damian
@@ODRModurol I got the chains on this afternoon. No room for wedges on this set, the chains are as tight as banjo strings. SO much so that it made me look it over very closely to ensure everything is in the right place with the chains in the grooves in the guides and all. Before installing I was worried that there would be too much slack.
Jim, Sounds like a good setup, well done. Good luck with the rest of the job, regards Damian
Hi mate i got an stype 4.2 v8 and i need to remove the heads beacuse my gasket are gone ....im worried about this fittings about vvt and ratrd amd advacnced do you know where can i read or see more in detail about it plz
Costil, start with the engine and transmission manual drive.google.com/file/d/1pDzWVGczjT1AdvwgCAmYZsqIut7PpR9p/view
If this doen't give you the info let us know.
Thank for the comment regards Damian
Great video ! I just did the chains and tensioners on my 2000 xk8 everything went smooth and I bought all the special tools . After I installed everything I removed the camshaft locking tools and the flex plate locking tool as well , turn the engine manually and after one turn the camshaft flats o NOT line up anymore. Do you know if this is normal due to the cvvt or do you think I messed up the timing on the engine ? Thanks in advance.
Gabriel, the one set of cam shafts do rotate slightly due to value spring pressure. Forgot whether it was inlet or exhaust but one moves when you release the cam locks. You should be able to refit the crankshaft and cam locks without issue.. it will compress the value springs on the cam the moved and put it the right place. If you can’t then I think you have an issue with the timing and will need to loosen the sockets off and try again. Hope that helps, thanks for the comment regards Damian
Gabriel, take a look at this thread www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk8-xkr-x100-17/rhs-exhaust-cam-moving-after-cam-locks-removed-231237/ Hope that helps, Thanks Damian
@@ODRModurol thanks Damián I will look into that once I get home tonight, I also have one more question , when replacing the plastic primary tensioners with the upgrade aluminum, do you still need to use the metal plates between the block and the new tensioners or you can just install the new tensioners without it ?
Grabriel, correct you don’t need the spacer blocks under the tensioners as this already incorporated in the later metal tensioner design hence the different length bolts are required. Hope that helps, regards Damian
hi, may i ask what chain guides are you using, they dont look like the ones you got in your budget kit.
Todd, I decided on buying the guides that were the same design as the ones I removed. Bought them from SNG Barrett. Should have bought their mid range kit which includes that original design as standard. Lesson learnt, thanks for the comment, Damian. www.sngbarratt.com/English/#/uk/FindParts/Families/XK8%20~2F%20XKR/11/XK8%20~2F%20XKR%20-%20To%201999/48/ENGINE/3197/assembly/9738
Todd, forgot I did do a video of that. see link ua-cam.com/video/MMTX-XDvDWU/v-deo.html, thanks Damian
Anyone still follow this post? I have questions.
Chris, what would you like to know, thanks Damian
@@ODRModurol I have a 2000 S type with the 4.0. I locked the cams with the same tool as you and locked the crank as well. I marked the vvt sprockets before I removed them to make sure they go back on the same spot they came off. I am confused on your video due to retarding and advancing the vvt units. I still have the cover off my car. I reinstalled new chains, tensioners and guides. The vvt on this car are the newer ones, I think you referred to as binary in Ep 22. Everything went back together easy. The tool the kit provided will not fit in the hole of the vvt unit. My question is one how tight should the chains be? There is hardly any slack on either side of the long chains. Second, why is it important to retard or advance them? Is this necessary?
Chris, the spockets aren’t keyed to the cams so you just need to tension the chain as you tighten them to remove any slack. The primary large chain was tight for me especially with the tensioner in place. The VVT units have two spockets which move relative to get other. One sprocket on each chain. You need to sure these are in the ‘normal’ retarded position before tightening. If it isn’t the sprockets could be out of synic/advanced and therefore the timing will be out on that bank of cylinders. The VVT have a spring return to retarded position so the chance is slight but still possible. Hence the need to double check. Sorry I don’t have the CVVT units but the idea is the same. Hope that helps thanks Damian
@@ODRModurol OK the tool in the kit fits into the back of the vvt sprocket. Is there a way to check them when they are not on the car?
Chris, apologies new ground for me. You are trying to move one sprocket relative to the other so in theory just need to hold one and move the other using the tool or other method. Sorry I don’t have any direct experience of these CVVT units to help with any details. Thanks Damian