I recently bought an Equus Innova OBD-1 code reader, and the users' manual emphatically states that before you run this KOER (key on, engine running) test, you must first run the KOEO (key on, engine off) test and fix any trouble codes you get from that test. For the KOER results to be valid, you must be getting a "system pass" code (11 or 111) from the KOEO test first. By the way, that code reader makes this job MUCH easier. For under $25 on Amazon, the Innova 3145 Ford Code Reader for older Fords (1981-1995) is a great buy. The manual has all the Ford OBD-1 trouble codes and their meaning (the most comprehensive list I've seen) as well as detailed instructions for running all the tests. If you own an older Ford car or truck, this code reader and its manual are well worth the small investment.
You were supposed to turn the wheel left ..right step on brake ..step on gas clap your hands three times throw your hat into the air .. and yell Yeeehaaa.. Great video ..Thank you for all info
Thanks man I remember my dad doing this when I was a kid, but now days nobody knows what I'm talking about or how to do it. I drive a 1990 f-150 so this was a really big help. Thank you again.
Awesome job! I'm having acceleration problems with my daughter's 1992 Thunderbird. Can't wait to get out there and test it. Thanks for the informative video.
Thank you for the clear explanation of the process. Well done! Where on yhe not did, you find the code answers. When searched, I came up with long lists and started with P some 5 figures ...
Amazing, specially for me in Brazil and it seems nobody understand NOTHING about Mustang in my town. Thanks. I am going to Florida next week, tomorrow I will know the errors code. Tanks again.
I have a 93 ford explorer and it has the same features as this car on the video. I had trouble trying to figure out what the hell is going on and i was scared thinking I'll probably never know what to do now. Seeing this video now I am relieved that I can do this at home without taking it to a mechanic who may probably do the exact same thing!
Making a small jumper wire with male spade end connectors on both ends will fit better than paper clips. Also, I am wondering just how many people watching this video are likely to end up shorting the jumper to ground because nobody mentioned to not lay the bare, uninsulated paper clip near anything metal. Also, is that whole turning the wheel, braking, then rev really necessary? I don't have to do any of that stuff to get codes from a 91 F-250 with 351w block, but the connector and codes look the same. I only found this video while checking for a friend to see if Taurus were similar.
@@hankbridges5055 , is that only on certain years or models? Because if I start to turn the wheel or anything else, then my truck is already flashing codes before I even get to the second step, and can't count codes, write them down, and steer at the same time.
@@JamesMorningstar Yes, evidently. Some cars have a power-steering pressure switch and a brake on- off switch. It's to test the operation of those parts. My car says to but it don't have those parts. Some cars have a over-ride switch to activate. Best thing to do is do like it says or it might not test. My Actron CP9690 tester has code-connect to diagnose codes. My Snap on scanner is more for OBDI. It has troubleshooting. I have OBDII cartridges to 2000 and the adaptor. The Actron only gives OBDI test results for my car. It DID specify which air pump check valve was bad. Code-connect helped me to fix 2 problems. It's more specific.
Code 33 is the EGR valve. If you get oxygen sensor rich or lean codes, replace the MAP sensor. If you get vacuum to the EGR at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve.
Thanks for your info on self testing a ford computer, I have been a Ford man for years and never knew this could be done. Thank you. Will have to try it on my 1990 Bronco and see if it spits out any codes, no check engine light but it idles rough and will stall but other times runs perfectly.
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, oxygen sensor test, emissions readiness test, transmission codes, solenoid and relay test, memory codes, MAP sensor test, MAF test, IAC valve test, and MORE! It works on 1983-2013 and is updatable. EBAY has it.
My Lincoln Town Car cranks well with new battery but won't fire up. So the war up and motor running is not possible. I was told and have read that this test can be done with only ignition key turns on and the engine need not be running. Also the OBD1 test is for through 1995 and OBD2 is for 1996 and newer.
I have a 1986 mercury cougar 3.8L with an digital dash display and it did not work. There is no check engine on this cluster just a servive light that never flashed. I tried several times making sure i had the right ports and cleaned them out even to no avail. Guess i may have to get myself an OBD-1 system reader.
Hello. I have a 1994 automatic ford ranger with a surge problem. It only happens after its warm and at a complete stop. It wont do it on park or neutral. It also takes long to start. Sometimes i have to turn ignition key twice. It started to surge right after the smog guy replaced the fuel neck that goes to gas tank. Replaced IAC valve, fuel filter, sparkplugs, temp sensor, egr valve , pcv valve, cleaned MAF , cleaned throttle plate, checked for vaccum leaks. Any good advice would be appreciated.
Get a digital code tester from Amazon for Ford. Also get the extension cable. Better than that get a Snap-on scanner and cartridges and manuals and adapters from E-Bay. Also get the 120 volt adapter and Battery Pak to check test results away from the car. Get the latest cartridges.
He was supposed to turn the wheel 360° left or right and then back to center and push the brake pedal. Check fuel pressure and leakdown. O2 codes can be spark plugs, clogged injectors, etc. EGR not opening can be a bad EGR or no vacuum to the EGR. Improper vacuum can be the charcoal canister purge valve. Rich mixtures can be the MAP sensor or CTS, or leaking injectors, or other things.
I just tried this on my 94 F150 (manual transmission) and the check engine light never came on :( Do you know if there's anything different or why this test wouldn't work?
Does the CEL illuminate during KOEO? That means, turn key to on/run but dont start the vehicle! Checm engine light should be on. If it doesnt light up, its most likely a CEL bulb that burned out, common on older vehicles that have been ran with a fault code for extended periods of time.
hello - 1987 ford ltd crown victoria lx 5.0 v8 OHV- i just tried this following your directions to the tee, however, it did not work. the engine light never alerted 🤷♂🤔, any idea?
Does this work on a carbed eec iv? Has no CEL, but an Emmisions light that turns on and shuts off after the engine is started. Working on an 85 ranger 2.8.
You said to turn right then left which you did the first time but the second time you turned left then right. I'm guessing it doesn't matter which way you turn first as long as you turn both directions?
IMO the Chrysler procedure for checking codes is simpler than Ford's. I own a '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee and you just have to turn the ignition switch from OFF to ON five times and then just keep it in ON the fifth time around, THEN count the number of times the 'Check Engine' light flashes. (:
Great video. I have a 93 f150. 4.9L. I have to codes. 998 and 118. I replaced the tps and put back the original bulds on instrument panel. I disconnected the battery for about and hour and even over night but the check engine light came back on. With same codes. My question is how do I reset the computer. Please help.
I have a 1993 Ford f250 7.5 liter truck I'm going thru three to four quarts every 400, 500 miles I'm not leaking under my truck or smell it burning on my motor I have black sewt coating exhaust and blowing out any ideas its using more and more oil every day I'm trying tutu figure it out and fix it (12 quarts in 9 days)
Hi I have a 1994 Mercury Sable 3.8L (same as a Ford Taurus) ..I went to go run this test but I could not find the gray single connector, it's not attached to the black plug, Any clue what may be the problem? Please help. Thanks
Hi, The single plug should be in the same area as the large one. Just hunt around and you should be able to find it. I have read that in some rare instances the single connector is integrated into the large one. Search google for a diagram of the large plug. If you have an extra terminal it might be the sti wire.
My code from a 1989 ford E20 club wagon are 33 96 33 96.What do those #'s diagnose.The van will start and run,and when engine gets hot it will shut off.Thanks
***** Thanks for the code readings. The mechanics who have checked our van seem not to understand how to work on this van. they keep guessing what kinda problems could be wrong wit it. The van is losing power and shifting very bad,it will barely go up a small hill, and there is a lot of heat around the engine,when I put my hand close to the exhaust,there seems not to be enough exhaust coming out.The van initially had 2 tanks,and we took out both of them and only put in 1 new tank and fuel pump,also just recently replaced the fuel filter. Another mechanic also suggested that we unclog the catalytic converter,which we did,he cut a hole in it and took out all the stuff inside of it.We also replaced the coil ignition BWD,changed the transmission filter & fluid as well as the modulator valve.Now another mechanic is suggesting that it could be the timing chain.When I was driving home yesterday for about an hour it died,but would start back up after 2-5 minutes of sitting.When I try to give it more gas around 45mph,it will start sputtering and eventually stop but will start back up after 2-5 mins.
Petey Mwaura Today I managed to pull out the EGR Valve Position Sensor and took it to advance auto to compare it with a new one,and the pintle seems to work just as well the new one,i checked inside the egr valve and it doesn't seem like its clogged up,no carbon build up.Another mechanic suggested that it has a bad timing chain.........what do you think Mr.Jennies
Petey Mwaura Exactly the same thing with my Ford Escort Mk6 from 1994. When it gets hot, it chokes and won't start again for some time. I can't even count how many "experts" gave us advices on this car. We went to every specialist in our... let's call this a state. Every, except genuine Ford-authorised ones. The car still stands by the house and slowly gets rust. It's a matter of fondness... Sorry for my English. I hope you understand ;-)
Kamil Binkowski I'm no expert, but those symptoms sound like the fuel could be boiling due to the injectors or fuel rail getting too hot when the engine is warm. Just something to consider
Hey john, why would you want to do the KOER test and not do the key off test? Or I guess you should do both right? Can you explain why you should or shouldn't do both tests?
How is the computer getting feedback from steering right/left in this? I can see brake and throttle able to be sensed by the system but steering right/left I am at a loss as to how the car knows your doing this?
Hmm.. I've got a '93 Ranger that has an ABS light that won't go off. Tried this, hoping it'd give me codes for that, but nope. Only got the check engine light blinking. Gave me code 26 - "transmission fluid temperature out of self-test range". Does that mean that I didn't let it warm up enough?
***** I've tested my brake fluid and moisture levels are between 1%-2%, so it's not ready to be changed yet. Maybe the sensor is ultra sensitive about that though. Did you test yours first?
Hi! This was extremely helpful. Does this method work on and 89 sable? My car was driving great on our way to a restaurant. When we left the car started fine but wouldn't go into drive or reverse? Appears to shift but doesn't go?
I have a Ford Ranger 94...I try the paper clip and check engine light wont give any codes I play with it for a 3 hours and then it gave me some codes but did not finish the process, so I try to get them again and no success.... but car is definitely running bad... If I turn it off and turn it on again it will run good for a minute then it goes bad again..
I just got a 94 Taurus 3.8l GL took it for a test drive no issues checked all fluids the looked good. I drove it from where I got it a short distance less than 5 miles for some errands no problems. I drive it at highways speeds all the way home no issues while driving I pull into my driveway the oil light starts flickering then stays on and goes of and flickers. I let it set for 30 minutes then checked out normal level good color no burnt odor and no metal flakes. I googled symptoms but are unsure if that will resolve it cause in some post the main bearings turned out to be the problem. What would be your opinion if duplicated at your garage?
I doubt you still have this car (2 years ago) but if you do Try a new oil pressure sending unit first before you tear down the engine. They are known to go bad. If you want to.be sure, put a gauge on it. If you have less than 5-6psi at idle once engine is hot you likely have internal wear. If that is case run thicker oil it will get you by until you can find a low mile engine for it
so i tried it and the code was 4141 but when i took out the paperclip it zapped/shocked and the truck died. it wont stay running longer than 5 seconds. its a v-6 2.9. what could it be?
Crazy question I do remember the paperclip trick from back in the day from my dad but I have a 93 Ford Mustang 2.3l lx that shot a code ten at me and the other day I was noticing the engine running poorly/having a possible misfire while hitting 65 on the interstate. I know a code ten is a cylinder 1 issue but would the best course of action before taking it to a more skilled mechanic be doing a full tune up then giving it another go?
The single connector is the self test input wire, you need it to pull codes. If you can't find the connector, I think the wire originates from pin 48 on the computer. I've heard in rare cases the sti wire being in the main connector, but if you can't find the stand alone terminal, best bet is to trace it out from the computer. Good luck!
what if your engine light don't come on till you drive for a while then goes off when you cut it off and doesn't come back on till you drive it for a while again. Can you still run this same kind of test?
Great video. Question: you've noted that this works for 1984-1994 Ford Vehicles. Will it also work for 1995 ones as well? I thought 1995 was the last year for OBD1. (I believe it wasn't until 1996 that Ford went to OBD2.) Thanks!
It is not a Running test! Rather a Coad Reader! You Jump the 2 terminals, and turn the Key On, the Check Engin Light Flashes in A Morris Code, Long and Short Blinks Check the Chart etc.
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, transmission codes, emissions readiness test, oxygen sensor tests, and MORE! It comes in a black pouch. It uses 4 aaa batteries, not included. It has code- connect to diagnose codes. EBAY has it. Or get a Snap-on scanner with primary cartridge and troubleshooter cartridge. Get the manuals. It uses a 9v. Square battery. Troubleshooter option diagnoses codes. Get the Ford OBDI cable or OBDII cable whichever your car uses. Get the battery- to- cigarette lighter cable which hooks up to the adaptor. EBAY has them.
my 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis ls 5.0 has been running for a total of 30 minutes and has not reached normal temperatures yet I don't understand why not does this mean I won't be able to perform the test?
i did that on my dads ford taurus its a 1994 and the code i got was 412412 and my question is ho wow do i find out what the codes mean hope you can help me out thanks.
***** This is to help anyone else with your same issue, I'm sure you've managed it by now, yourself... An engine needs only a few things to fire up and run. Fuel (enough fuel for carb and injected, and at the right time - if injected), Air (here is where one would assume it's getting air - open those throttle body plates and make sure), Spark, Timing of spark and valves, Compression. Probably in that order of importance. Just check these things yourself, assume nothing.get an inline spark tester for cheap. Get a compression tester as well. If all check out fine, you have either non-flammable fuel or the air has no oxygen in it.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I recently bought an Equus Innova OBD-1 code reader, and the users' manual emphatically states that before you run this KOER (key on, engine running) test, you must first run the KOEO (key on, engine off) test and fix any trouble codes you get from that test. For the KOER results to be valid, you must be getting a "system pass" code (11 or 111) from the KOEO test first. By the way, that code reader makes this job MUCH easier. For under $25 on Amazon, the Innova 3145 Ford Code Reader for older Fords (1981-1995) is a great buy. The manual has all the Ford OBD-1 trouble codes and their meaning (the most comprehensive list I've seen) as well as detailed instructions for running all the tests. If you own an older Ford car or truck, this code reader and its manual are well worth the small investment.
I seen what you've done here lol good add
You were supposed to turn the wheel left ..right step on brake ..step on gas clap your hands three times throw your hat into the air .. and yell Yeeehaaa.. Great video ..Thank you for all info
Thanks man I remember my dad doing this when I was a kid, but now days nobody knows what I'm talking about or how to do it. I drive a 1990 f-150 so this was a really big help. Thank you again.
Man ten years ago nobody knew? No wonder everyone’s so confused when I’m asking questions
This makes you appreciate the OBE2 system so much more.
Awesome job! I'm having acceleration problems with my daughter's 1992 Thunderbird. Can't wait to get out there and test it. Thanks for the informative video.
very helpful as I could not find a manual for this 14 yr old car, I am a retired wrench. GOOD job thank you!
+John Clarke Glad to help out!
Thanks! The codes are always helpful to point you in the right direction for figuring out whats wrong.
Thank you for the clear explanation of the process. Well done! Where on yhe not did, you find the code answers. When searched, I came up with long lists and started with P some 5 figures
...
Thank you for this video you just helped me get my check engine light fixed on my 91 and 93 sho
Best description I have come across. Thnks. Will now try on 95 e150 econoline. Garage wanted $100 to use their OBD1
Awesome video man thanks very much. I ran this test on my 94 Bronco today and got the 111 code. All good!
Very neat technique, thanks a lot!
Amazing, specially for me in Brazil and it seems nobody understand NOTHING about Mustang in my town. Thanks. I am going to Florida next week, tomorrow I will know the errors code. Tanks again.
I'm glad this video helped you, thanks for the comment.
Thank you so much for the video!! I have been trying to figure out why my 1990 t-bird was running super rich.
I have a 93 ford explorer and it has the same features as this car on the video. I had trouble trying to figure out what the hell is going on and i was scared thinking I'll probably never know what to do now. Seeing this video now I am relieved that I can do this at home without taking it to a mechanic who may probably do the exact same thing!
Yes! I love Ford for this! My car has been having rough idle for weeks now. Just got to do this and see what codes my 94 explore gives me.
Great video helped a lot. Thanks
Excellent Video! Working on my father in laws truck. This worked great to give me the codes I needed to explore. Thank you!
Thanks for your help. You saved me $30 already.
Penny Bevins Glad to help you save some $$
Making a small jumper wire with male spade end connectors on both ends will fit better than paper clips. Also, I am wondering just how many people watching this video are likely to end up shorting the jumper to ground because nobody mentioned to not lay the bare, uninsulated paper clip near anything metal. Also, is that whole turning the wheel, braking, then rev really necessary? I don't have to do any of that stuff to get codes from a 91 F-250 with 351w block, but the connector and codes look the same. I only found this video while checking for a friend to see if Taurus were similar.
@@hankbridges5055 , is that only on certain years or models? Because if I start to turn the wheel or anything else, then my truck is already flashing codes before I even get to the second step, and can't count codes, write them down, and steer at the same time.
@@JamesMorningstar Yes, evidently. Some cars have a power-steering pressure switch and a brake on- off switch. It's to test the operation of those parts. My car says to but it don't have those parts. Some cars have a over-ride switch to activate. Best thing to do is do like it says or it might not test. My Actron CP9690 tester has code-connect to diagnose codes. My Snap on scanner is more for OBDI. It has troubleshooting. I have OBDII cartridges to 2000 and the adaptor. The Actron only gives OBDI test results for my car. It DID specify which air pump check valve was bad. Code-connect helped me to fix 2 problems. It's more specific.
Also found video very informative and the guy didn't irritate me, like 95% of UA-cam videos do.
saweeet... you da man, juss bought a 91 ford f150 ... no engine light on it, but this is good too know.. explained flawlessly on your part (Y)
Code 33 is the EGR valve. If you get oxygen sensor rich or lean codes, replace the MAP sensor. If you get vacuum to the EGR at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve.
Thank you
Thanks for the info. You explained it better than most i have seen. looks like you may have done this a few times.
glad to help, thanks!
Holy crap, I was just about to say that I used to do this on my 93 SHO, and imagine my surprise when the video started!
Will the same procedure work on 1998 f150 4.6 L.
great video & information. best i've seen yet. thanks for posting.
and you'd think ford would put in the manual how to do this eec test, instead of telling you to "get your vehicle serviced right away."
Thanks for the video tutorial. My 1994 Ford Ranger thanks you too.
Thanks for your info on self testing a ford computer, I have been a Ford man for years and never knew this could be done. Thank you. Will have to try it on my 1990 Bronco and see if it spits out any codes, no check engine light but it idles rough and will stall but other times runs perfectly.
emdman1959 glad to help out, thanks!
Check the EGR and charcoal canister purge valve. Run fuel injector cleaner thru the engine to clean injectors and eliminate false codes.
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, oxygen sensor test, emissions readiness test, transmission codes, solenoid and relay test, memory codes, MAP sensor test, MAF test, IAC valve test, and MORE! It works on 1983-2013 and is updatable. EBAY has it.
nice video man, very thorough. Much appreciative.
My Lincoln Town Car cranks well with new battery but won't fire up. So the war up and motor running is not possible. I was told and have read that this test can be done with only ignition key turns on and the engine need not be running. Also the OBD1 test is for through 1995 and OBD2 is for 1996 and newer.
I have a 1986 mercury cougar 3.8L with an digital dash display and it did not work. There is no check engine on this cluster just a servive light that never flashed. I tried several times making sure i had the right ports and cleaned them out even to no avail. Guess i may have to get myself an OBD-1 system reader.
What's test do if there are no codes. It flash a pass code. Thanks for sweet video
Hello. I have a 1994 automatic ford ranger with a surge problem. It only happens after its warm and at a complete stop. It wont do it on park or neutral. It also takes long to start. Sometimes i have to turn ignition key twice. It started to surge right after the smog guy replaced the fuel neck that goes to gas tank. Replaced IAC valve, fuel filter, sparkplugs, temp sensor, egr valve , pcv valve, cleaned MAF , cleaned throttle plate, checked for vaccum leaks. Any good advice would be appreciated.
Get a digital code tester from Amazon for Ford. Also get the extension cable. Better than that get a Snap-on scanner and cartridges and manuals and adapters from E-Bay. Also get the 120 volt adapter and Battery Pak to check test results away from the car. Get the latest cartridges.
Can I still run this test with it off? Cause I cant turn it over
Tried this on a 1995 Ford Escort LX, 1.9L. Got check engine light flashes while engine off but with engine running.... nothing.
thanks for this, one question though my 86 thunderbird's engine light flashed 6 times and i have a 8 cylinder engine?
He was supposed to turn the wheel 360° left or right and then back to center and push the brake pedal. Check fuel pressure and leakdown. O2 codes can be spark plugs, clogged injectors, etc. EGR not opening can be a bad EGR or no vacuum to the EGR. Improper vacuum can be the charcoal canister purge valve. Rich mixtures can be the MAP sensor or CTS, or leaking injectors, or other things.
you got a video for chevys... this helps out alot for me thanks a bunch!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Fantastic! thanx... my 1990 f150 is needing this... thanx
Great explanation! Well spoken. Thanks!
Nice swap man. Bet that SHO motor really hauls in that little car.
I just tried this on my 94 F150 (manual transmission) and the check engine light never came on :( Do you know if there's anything different or why this test wouldn't work?
Does the CEL illuminate during KOEO? That means, turn key to on/run but dont start the vehicle! Checm engine light should be on. If it doesnt light up, its most likely a CEL bulb that burned out, common on older vehicles that have been ran with a fault code for extended periods of time.
10th Viewer 3rd Like Thank You for the time you spent on this Video! Chevrolet can be checked in much the same way!
hello - 1987 ford ltd crown victoria lx 5.0 v8 OHV- i just tried this following your directions to the tee, however, it did not work. the engine light never alerted 🤷♂🤔, any idea?
I have a 92 Lincoln Town Car. Do you think this test will work on Lincolns as well? It’s a 4.6 V8
Help 87 svo. Wont flash any codes got it hooked up same way
Does this work on a carbed eec iv? Has no CEL, but an Emmisions light that turns on and shuts off after the engine is started. Working on an 85 ranger 2.8.
Thank you for this great video.Can you please provide the link to the codes? I have 1992 Mercury Cougar 8 Cyl.(same as 92 T bird). Thank sagain
Hi Jennies Garage. Where can I find the documentation you read the flashes from? Nice little trick....thanks.
You said to turn right then left which you did the first time but the second time you turned left then right. I'm guessing it doesn't matter which way you turn first as long as you turn both directions?
Awesome video! Thank you so much. Where to check codes tho? My ford probe 89 gave me 98 and 54.
IMO the Chrysler procedure for checking codes is simpler than Ford's. I own a '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee and you just have to turn the ignition switch from OFF to ON five times and then just keep it in ON the fifth time around, THEN count the number of times the 'Check Engine' light flashes. (:
yes but chrysler doesn't give an engine running test, ford gives you separate engine running/not running tests that give you better info.
@@marzsit9833 This was before OBD-II, digital odometers, etc.
J G, will this work on a 1995 taurus 3.0 eec? i thought 95 was the transition year.
Great video. I have a 93 f150. 4.9L. I have to codes. 998 and 118. I replaced the tps and put back the original bulds on instrument panel. I disconnected the battery for about and hour and even over night but the check engine light came back on. With same codes. My question is how do I reset the computer. Please help.
Help! now my truck wont stop running through the procedure even after the paperclip is taken out!
I have a 1993 Ford f250 7.5 liter truck I'm going thru three to four quarts every 400, 500 miles I'm not leaking under my truck or smell it burning on my motor I have black sewt coating exhaust and blowing out any ideas its using more and more oil every day I'm trying tutu figure it out and fix it (12 quarts in 9 days)
Exactly what I needed big thanks
happy to help out!
Can I do this whith my 93' escort and 1.9 engine?
how many digit codes would it be for an 84 f150?
2
I tried this on my 86 ranger, engine seemed to go through the test paces , didn't get any flashes, could my engine light be burnt out?
When you first start the car or turn key to accessories, does the check engine light come on for a moment? If it does, then the light is fine.
Does it have to be a genuine Ford paperclip ?? : )
I accidentally used to a Chevy paper clip and the car burst into flames.
Eli W Oh NO! You used a Chevy clip for a Ford? They should make them different to avoid that!
Marty Stevens I tried a a Ford paperclip and it broke halfway through the test. F.o.r.d (fix or repair daily) haha.
did you wipe the dog shit off the Chevy paperclip first?
Hi I have a 1994 Mercury Sable 3.8L (same as a Ford Taurus) ..I went to go run this test but I could not find the gray single connector, it's not attached to the black plug, Any clue what may be the problem? Please help. Thanks
Hi, The single plug should be in the same area as the large one. Just hunt around and you should be able to find it. I have read that in some rare instances the single connector is integrated into the large one. Search google for a diagram of the large plug. If you have an extra terminal it might be the sti wire.
Do they make a scanner for a 1991 Sable?
My code from a 1989 ford E20 club wagon are 33 96 33 96.What do those #'s diagnose.The van will start and run,and when engine gets hot it will shut off.Thanks
Darrica Russell 33=egr valve 96=fuel pump circuit power loss. Hope that helps, thanks!
***** Thanks for the code readings. The mechanics who have checked our van seem not to understand how to work on this van. they keep guessing what kinda problems could be wrong wit it. The van is losing power and shifting very bad,it will barely go up a small hill, and there is a lot of heat around the engine,when I put my hand close to the exhaust,there seems not to be enough exhaust coming out.The van initially had 2 tanks,and we took out both of them and only put in 1 new tank and fuel pump,also just recently replaced the fuel filter. Another mechanic also suggested that we unclog the catalytic converter,which we did,he cut a hole in it and took out all the stuff inside of it.We also replaced the coil ignition BWD,changed the transmission filter & fluid as well as the modulator valve.Now another mechanic is suggesting that it could be the timing chain.When I was driving home yesterday for about an hour it died,but would start back up after 2-5 minutes of sitting.When I try to give it more gas around 45mph,it will start sputtering and eventually stop but will start back up after 2-5 mins.
Petey Mwaura Today I managed to pull out the EGR Valve Position Sensor and took it to advance auto to compare it with a new one,and the pintle seems to work just as well the new one,i checked inside the egr valve and it doesn't seem like its clogged up,no carbon build up.Another mechanic suggested that it has a bad timing chain.........what do you think Mr.Jennies
Petey Mwaura Exactly the same thing with my Ford Escort Mk6 from 1994. When it gets hot, it chokes and won't start again for some time. I can't even count how many "experts" gave us advices on this car. We went to every specialist in our... let's call this a state. Every, except genuine Ford-authorised ones. The car still stands by the house and slowly gets rust. It's a matter of fondness...
Sorry for my English. I hope you understand ;-)
Kamil Binkowski I'm no expert, but those symptoms sound like the fuel could be boiling due to the injectors or fuel rail getting too hot when the engine is warm. Just something to consider
Hey john, why would you want to do the KOER test and not do the key off test? Or I guess you should do both right? Can you explain why you should or shouldn't do both tests?
Brig T You should do both. First tend to the first codes first in case it corrects others. After replacing parts, recheck. Code 33 is EGR valve.
How is the computer getting feedback from steering right/left in this? I can see brake and throttle able to be sensed by the system but steering right/left I am at a loss as to how the car knows your doing this?
It's for the load.. power steering load on engine... brake for vacuum change.. rev for missfire
Would a $15 ODB1 scanner do the same ?
Hmm.. I've got a '93 Ranger that has an ABS light that won't go off. Tried this, hoping it'd give me codes for that, but nope. Only got the check engine light blinking. Gave me code 26 - "transmission fluid temperature out of self-test range". Does that mean that I didn't let it warm up enough?
***** I've tested my brake fluid and moisture levels are between 1%-2%, so it's not ready to be changed yet. Maybe the sensor is ultra sensitive about that though. Did you test yours first?
My car is with the ABS and AIRBAG turned on. How can I turn it off? The car was stopped by one year, bateryless a lot of time.
Did you solve the problem?
thank you for this, you saved me a lot of money.
Unplug the mass air flow sensor, and start the engine. if it stays running, the mass air flow sensor is bad.
Do Ford diesels of the same years have this feature too?
So what did you end up doing to get rid of the codes?
Where do I find a crankcase sensor for a SHO 3.2???
Hi! This was extremely helpful. Does this method work on and 89 sable? My car was driving great on our way to a restaurant. When we left the car started fine but wouldn't go into drive or reverse? Appears to shift but doesn't go?
I have a Ford Ranger 94...I try the paper clip and check engine light wont give any codes I play with it for a 3 hours and then it gave me some codes but did not finish the process, so I try to get them again and no success.... but car is definitely running bad... If I turn it off and turn it on again it will run good for a minute then it goes bad again..
Mauricio, often paper clips these days have some kind of varnish or plastic coating on them. Either sand the connecting ends or use a regular wire.
I just got a 94 Taurus 3.8l GL took it for a test drive no issues checked all fluids the looked good. I drove it from where I got it a short distance less than 5 miles for some errands no problems. I drive it at highways speeds all the way home no issues while driving I pull into my driveway the oil light starts flickering then stays on and goes of and flickers. I let it set for 30 minutes then checked out normal level good color no burnt odor and no metal flakes. I googled symptoms but are unsure if that will resolve it cause in some post the main bearings turned out to be the problem. What would be your opinion if duplicated at your garage?
I doubt you still have this car (2 years ago) but if you do Try a new oil pressure sending unit first before you tear down the engine. They are known to go bad. If you want to.be sure, put a gauge on it. If you have less than 5-6psi at idle once engine is hot you likely have internal wear. If that is case run thicker oil it will get you by until you can find a low mile engine for it
What about 1995? (Ford Taurus specifically)
the engine turns over but wont start its go the check engine light will this still work?
so i tried it and the code was 4141 but when i took out the paperclip it zapped/shocked and the truck died. it wont stay running longer than 5 seconds. its a v-6 2.9. what could it be?
Crazy question I do remember the paperclip trick from back in the day from my dad but I have a 93 Ford Mustang 2.3l lx that shot a code ten at me and the other day I was noticing the engine running poorly/having a possible misfire while hitting 65 on the interstate. I know a code ten is a cylinder 1 issue but would the best course of action before taking it to a more skilled mechanic be doing a full tune up then giving it another go?
My code book said *Muffler Bearing Bad & Low Blinker Fluid* where are these located at?
By the Water pump relay & The exhaust pump reservoir
Wen i press the brake my head tilts forward.....those that mean check glove box lock for sugar residue from the freon
On my 1988 f250 I do not have the grey single connector. Is this just a ground wire? Can I just ground the other plug to do this diagnostic check?
The single connector is the self test input wire, you need it to pull codes. If you can't find the connector, I think the wire originates from pin 48 on the computer. I've heard in rare cases the sti wire being in the main connector, but if you can't find the stand alone terminal, best bet is to trace it out from the computer. Good luck!
Would this work on a '93 Ford Escort GT with the Mazda 1.8 4 cyl engine?
thanks i will be doing this tomorrow morning.
what if your engine light don't come on till you drive for a while then goes off when you cut it off and doesn't come back on till you drive it for a while again. Can you still run this same kind of test?
Great video. Question: you've noted that this works for 1984-1994 Ford Vehicles. Will it also work for 1995 ones as well? I thought 1995 was the last year for OBD1. (I believe it wasn't until 1996 that Ford went to OBD2.) Thanks!
shockteevee yes 95 as well
It is not a Running test! Rather a Coad Reader! You Jump the 2 terminals, and turn the Key On, the Check Engin Light Flashes in A Morris Code, Long and Short Blinks Check the Chart etc.
Will this work on a 1994 mercury topaz/1994 ford tempo?
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, transmission codes, emissions readiness test, oxygen sensor tests, and MORE! It comes in a black pouch. It uses 4 aaa batteries, not included. It has code- connect to diagnose codes. EBAY has it. Or get a Snap-on scanner with primary cartridge and troubleshooter cartridge. Get the manuals. It uses a 9v. Square battery. Troubleshooter option diagnoses codes. Get the Ford OBDI cable or OBDII cable whichever your car uses. Get the battery- to- cigarette lighter cable which hooks up to the adaptor. EBAY has them.
I have a 89 sho how do I find hot what the amount of blinks mean? I can't find anything about it and it's getting pretty stressful
Google it, find out what the code is. Say it's code 43 google it as ford code 43, If that doesn't work call Oreilly auto parts and they can help you.
What if your engine tries but won't start?
What did type into google specifically like what exactly do you ask google ??
This would work on a 1992 mercury topaz with a 2.3l 4cyl?
Cool, I can't wait to try this on my new 1994 F250.
where can I find out what my codes mean???
my 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis ls 5.0 has been running for a total of 30 minutes and has not reached normal temperatures yet I don't understand why not does this mean I won't be able to perform the test?
mrhaynes1974 It could be the thermostat. That can cause rich mixtures.
Sometimes a 2000 rpm rev hold is needed (maybe a minute) for fan clutch to disengage or thermostat that is fail safe stuck open or both
i did that on my dads ford taurus its a 1994 and the code i got was 412412 and my question is ho wow do i find out what the codes mean hope you can help me out thanks.
Your code is 412.it repeats twice and since you have a 94 it has 3 numbers not 2.hope this helps
Is it possible to do with a car that doesn't run? It turns on but the engine wont start.
***** This is to help anyone else with your same issue, I'm sure you've managed it by now, yourself...
An engine needs only a few things to fire up and run. Fuel (enough fuel for carb and injected, and at the right time - if injected), Air (here is where one would assume it's getting air - open those throttle body plates and make sure), Spark, Timing of spark and valves, Compression. Probably in that order of importance. Just check these things yourself, assume nothing.get an inline spark tester for cheap. Get a compression tester as well. If all check out fine, you have either non-flammable fuel or the air has no oxygen in it.
Have you found out?
Ive got a 93 f150 and it has 2 digit codes?? not 3