I've run eggbeaters for years. I have the 1 (bought new 2013-14), SL (bought used) and 2 (2017). The 2 is just couple years old and never ridden during winter. The 1 and SL have both been ridden in winter. I can't recall that I have done any maintenance to the 1. They work fine. No rust in the wings. Works great. The SL just blew a set of bearings. I bought a refresh kit for them couple years ago. The nut at the end apparently got loose and since I didin't notice anything I just rode the bearings to the ground. So I am up for a second refresh kit for the SL pedals. But they are an old model and I have no idea how many km's they've seen. I am quite happy with the eggbeaters. I also use the shoeshield even though I don't own carbon shoes. It relieves the pressure a bit. I must admit that I have never used the sleeves to make the pedal fit my shoe snuggly. No idea if they are tight enough. Maybe I should try them too. But I can tell you that those cleats you showed.. are nowhere near at the end of their life. I've ridden cleats untill you just can see some kind of lip there to hold on the pedal. And they do, and did, disengage while riding just by pulling on the pedal.
Now this is how to do a review...! not I've just got them and their great? Actually having them for a length of time and then all the issues that followed. Thank you
Fantastic review. Exceptionally measured and detailed. I’ve been using Mallet DH pedals for 5 years and thousand of kms mainly on sand and next to salt water with no issues whatsoever. I’ve only just pulled them apart for a service - even though they really didn’t need it. I recently purchased the eggbeater 3s in your review for my road bike - I’ll be very interested to see how they go. Regardless I think they are an awesome product - certainly the best out there at the moment.
Thanks! I've also been using the Mallet pedals (but the E version) for about a year, but the bearings needed replacement after a year of use. If you keep an eye on the seals, to keep it free from debris and properly in place, you can extend the lifetime of the bearings. Despite the negative points, I still use Eggbeaters on my XC competition bike and especially like them in muddy conditions.
@@MTBguide when I'll have to service my mallets I'll use water resistant grease to see if it helps, maybe the pedals will not turn so easy as with normal grease but it is worth a try. Great video.
@@JeffWagen Thanks! Water resistant grease can be a good alternative. The bearings are on the opposite side of de seals/pedal, so water won't be much of an issue with light/normal use. But if you ride through streams with pedals emerged under water, definitely use water resistant grease 👍.
@@MTBguide usually I don't cross streams but here in Brazil most of the time the forest areas even in summer are pretty wet, and sometimes I get caught by the rain lol.
Super nice and unbias review. Just to note that while the chromoly did rust a bit, I doubt it would cause any performance issues. My Jeep axles are chromoly as well as some gun barrels that I have. Especially the axles have a thin layer of rust, but it's far from compromising the strength and integrity of the axle. The only way I see rust on a chromoly spindle causing a problem is if it spreads into the seal and bearing where it would wear away the seal and cause premature wear and friction while the pedal spins.
Thank you! I agree that if the rust did not spread under the seals, it wouldn't be a problem. I used the old axles untill the rust was under the outer seal. If given more time I do think it would have continued further. The new ones that I replaced them with are ok, no visual damage/rust.
The problem was in the video he made you can clearly see that the rust on the spindle has penetrated under the outer seal in less than a single season of riding. Once that starts it is pretty much a certainty to continue penetrating further until you have compromised bearings. I seriously doubt you would get multiple seasons out of these things in any tough type of conditions without rust related performance issues. Crank Bros sponsored riders of course do not care about that because they are changing out new pedals and cleats constantly for free multiple times a season. :-)
I ended up using Candy's after wiping out multiple wings on eggbeaters on rocks. Sadly the seals dont properly stop water ingress so the bearings do not last a winter in the UK.
I use EB1. Best value 4 money. Much lighter than spd for the same price. However slightly less intuitive clicking in. No wear so far but only did about 1000 km.
Used for about 8 months and about 2000 km, one spindle seems completely worn out (rust and deep scratches).The inner bushing is destroyed and I can't even get it out with the tool provided in the kit, just goes straight through it... Guess the improvement is more about cutting cost (bushing instead of those probably expensive needle bearings they used to have)
Very nice review. The super high replacement part costs basically make this a disposable pedal. Burn through the parts and buy a new set.. Plus the fact that in under one season the spindle is already showing rust under the outer bearing seal does not add up to longevity IMO. And you are right, the choice to use a chromoly spindle for an XC pedal is just plain stupid. It is an invitation for rust to set in pretty quickly, particularly when the outer seal in your vid did not seem to seal out water the way you would expect it to. Combine that with the tiny platform, and I'll stick with my XTR pedals. :-)
good overview- but the main bit you missed was that i'd say the 3's are worth it over the 1's and 2's because they can actually be serviced. CB states all 3, or at least the 2's and 3's, are serviceable by accessing the inner bits through a removable endcap. However, the 3's are the only pedal in the line with an alloy, hex key accessed end cap. The 2's have a horrid plastic that deforms at the suggestion you're going to try and get at it.
I had no real problems with plastic caps untill now removing them. They are not (often) really reuseable due to deforming, but the CB Pedal Refresh Kit contains new alloy end caps.
Excellent, i like the long time period. I have Time aliums on my 20 year old hard tail shockless bike. Probably 4k. Never maintained them, great pedals. Easy to get into with the ramps. It's the cleats that need replacing, mine are pretty bashed up like yours. I always wonder why any steel rusts, is it really steel? Or are there impurities? WE really never know what steel is in some of these products where the designers and the manufacturers are in different locations (countries) with different laws. On my new bike I am currently bashing up some bontrager spd commuters pedals, and my shins. Long commute, 2 months, 300 miles or so, Alot of the black paint is off. I am using a set of old cleats and new cleats. They are working pretty good but we'll see what play they end up with after 6 months. I hate the adjustment screw, but at least they have one (too small and the angle means you need a long allen key with good leverage. The screw head will strip imo).
Thanks! I really liked my old Time (ATAC) pedals as well, but the new ones not so much since the quality took quite the hit. The bearings do wear faster now and the adjustment screw broke on the new Time.
Nice video ! I used them for a year and 12 000km on a road bike as a bike messenger. They now have a little bit of play that I can't adjust, one face can't really clip too on my left shoe 😕. Will try Time Atac now
Thanks for sharing your experience :) I've also used Time Atac in the past and they were great. But in recent years i tried the XC6 and felt that their quality wasn't up to par anymore (also check the customer reviews on Chainreactioncycles). I hope that you have a good experience with them. There aren't many similar alternatives. Look S-Track is one, but I haven't tried them out yet.
I was going to change my shimos with new one and was considering between pd-m540 and eggbeater 3. After 16000km it is still sellable except the shoe clamps which are rusted. Which was the main reason I was considering eggbeaters due to brass shoe clamps besides its lightweight. I don't want rusting shoes! But watching your review, I've decided to go for rust, but stick with Japanese engineering.
Great review. My experience of Crank Brothers pedals is very similar. The fact is though that the 'lateral float' on these is awesome. Nonetheless, the build quality should be better and I find pedal mechanics to be a bit flimsy. The plastic bushing!?
Haha I was thinking the same thing this year I’ve only been able to muster around 160 where I live if your tires make a track you shouldn’t ride since our dirt dries hard so any little indents when it’s when make the trail extremely bunny
Muy buen reportaje y conclusiones. Pero quizas no has comentado la gran ventaja de Crankbrothers respecto a Shimano, y es la flotabilidad una vez enganchados, es un seguro de vida para las rodillas . En Shimano vas demasido fijado sin juego lateral, por lo que es facil tener lesiones si no ajustas bien la cala
Great video! Thanks for sharing the info really appreciate it! I've been using XTR pedals on my racing CX bike and always struggle to clip in when it's very muddy, I'm wondering if the eggbeaters work well after running through mud? Cheers
There is a very noticeable difference between these pedals. I've ridden with XT and XTR pedals. Due to the open body and small contact surface of the Eggbeater, it clears mud better so you can clip in easier. In Shimano pedals you start to pack mud between the pedal body and cleat and can't clear it as fast/easy, causing issues clipping in in muddy conditions.
my springs squeak like hell. pretty annoying seems I don't have a compressor or pressure wash. I might strip them down even though I've recently done so with refresher kit. I would not recommend crankbros and wish I had seen this helpful video before I bought mine. Although mine have done 7000km, so I wonder what a Shimano would be like at 7000?
But the Shimano pedala are a heavier than these ,and if you lost or broke a bolt or an spring on the ride ,because the corrosion and all the dirt (mood and sand) filled on their short cavities is a trouble shit,even if you do the maintenance.
thanks for the review!! I understand that competing and using them quite a bit put some strain on the bearings. What do you reckon about using Eggbeaters for daily commute and occasional gravel cycling?
Nothing new to mention besides a slightly different color. Bearings and seals are still the same. The pedal axle as mentioned in the video was replaced under warranty. I have newer Mallet E's and those show no signs of rust.
It went together easily in less than an hour. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
Warning: regardless of the pedals you are using, if you come to a stop and have not clicked out and cannot click out in a small fraction of a second, you will fall over sideways unless you are a highly experienced rider capable of balancing upright like the pros do, or unless you stop near something tall enough you can hold on to or lean against. If you stop and fall over you will likely impact your hip joint. If you fall more than once, you will likely impact your hip joint each time in the same place. If you fall in front of automobile traffic, you will likely suffer severe injury or death, hence the warning on the CB box. You had better become VERY GOOD at disengaging the pedals (yes, it requires practice, and LOTS of it, too), because there will be times when you must disengage in less than one heartbeat, or suffer the consequences of wherever your fall takes you. I cannot easily disengage from the crank bros eggbeater 1 pedals I got about 5 months ago, and as a result have fallen several times, mostly due to not thinking ahead. Instructions do not mention adjustment of spring tension of CB eggbeater pedals; blogs confirm that spring tension is NOT adjustable. Keep your head about you if you are riding CB eggbeater pedals in the city or around traffic. Do not stop for a beer. Recently got a set of SPD pedals with spring tension adjustment. Although you could still fall from a failure to unclip from SPD pedals, they CAN be adjusted to disengage much more easily than the CB eggbeater pedals. Although another blog recommended CB eggbeaters as great for those just starting out with clipless pedals, I beg to differ based on my degree from the School of Hard Knocks, where I graduated summa cum laude. I recommend SPD pedals for those just starting out with clipless pedals, due to spring tension adjustability. Thats just their game.
Something to also consider besides spring tension is the click-out angle, that angle is (also due to the amount of float) pretty big on CB pedals. It requires a lot of movement and if you are not used to it, it can make clicking out more difficult. Some Time ATAC pedals feature spring adjustment and come closest in comparison to Eggbeaters. Everyone falls with clipless pedals when they start out and yes, you need to practice with it. Eggbeaters aren't really pedals you want to start out with, bigger pedal bodies that provide guidance are easier and provide more support when you miss. There are always risks, but when your kid is learning to ride a bike you don't send it into traffic, so why should you if you can't safely disengage from your bike. I hope that most points are common sense for most people participating in traffic. Pedals are a personal preference, especially clipless. When starting out with mountain biking, go flat pedals and really learn how to ride instead of cheating with clipless. When you do go clipless, I do recommend seeking professional advice on how to properly set them up. I've seen to many people get knee and back issues from improperly setup clipless pedals.
That is interesting and helpful (the suggestion to try alternative clipless). I'm riding on eggbeaters for about a year now. I've been through a few standstill falls and all were practically without any injuries (just scratches, once a bent rear derailleur). However there are two other vectors (for clipless in general): 1. abrupt stop in a tilted position (in a curve) - you cannot unclip while braking as the forces pushing you to the pedals won't allow that, and when stopped in a tilted position, there only are milliseconds to unclip because a lot of time is still spent on rebound from the braking (I happened to hurt my wrist joint quite badly, no fracture just pain for months, but probably also due to be completely unfocused on the ride at the time of fall - however on flats I would not have fallen). 2. Will the clipless pedals unclip during a serious crash? What are the forces? (I cannot find these data anywhere.) Can the bike's rotation with you attached snap your spine? Will your ankles break? etc. Or, OTOH, will you actually be protected more than if your lower brain tried to save you by waving your legs to all sides? Few advices for the eggbeaters: 1. keep them greased (yes, also the external springs!), 2. on start of every ride, unclip and re-clip on each side (my right side always unclips harder the first time for some reason), but also do this to refresh your brain on how much leg movement is necessary to actually unclip, in case you need it abruptly. Also, possibly, not tried yet but I will: 3. use spacers between shoe and cleat, 4. pre-rotate the cleat on the shoe so that smaller movement is necessary to unclip (may be dangerous).
seriously, you expexted the pedals to last over 4000 miles without needing a service? I understand you clearly ride your bikes a lot and all year long, but the majority of the people looking at these pedals will never do 1000 miles a year.. even pro xc racers barely put in that many miles each year. To me, if you trully used them as much as you say you did, you definitely got your moneys worth. Thanks for the review, Ill continue running my crankbro pedals :)
So....bearings need replacement about every 5000 k or 3000 miles or 2+ times per year for someone who rides daily. 2 'refresh' kits + 2 sets of cleats = $80+ per year. No thanks.
These products are made in taiwan. Thought I was buying American made products but they are Taiwanese . Don't buy . And you will probably have to take off of work to wait around all day for the package. They only ship signature required through dhl from Taiwan.
Warning : High Quality Content ahead, extremely thorough, keep it up man.
This is probably the most thoughtful an extensive review I ever watched of ANY product. Thanks man!
Man this is THE BEST REVIEW about anything I’ve seen in the internet.
I'm buying these and holy cow this is truly a review that i didn't know i needed in my life
This has got to be the best Long-Term Review I've ever watched. Good Job!
only 1 year and it was already at end of life, while my 6 year old cheapo shimano spd just refuse to die
i have some from the mid 90s shimano spd that still work
Is shimano 8100 good? Im planning
How ALL product reviews should be done. Excellent.
Thanks!
Best review I've ever seen about an mtb pedal. Excellent work!
excellent review very in-depth, definitely don't want these anymore, thanks!
I've run eggbeaters for years. I have the 1 (bought new 2013-14), SL (bought used) and 2 (2017). The 2 is just couple years old and never ridden during winter. The 1 and SL have both been ridden in winter. I can't recall that I have done any maintenance to the 1. They work fine. No rust in the wings. Works great. The SL just blew a set of bearings. I bought a refresh kit for them couple years ago. The nut at the end apparently got loose and since I didin't notice anything I just rode the bearings to the ground. So I am up for a second refresh kit for the SL pedals. But they are an old model and I have no idea how many km's they've seen. I am quite happy with the eggbeaters.
I also use the shoeshield even though I don't own carbon shoes. It relieves the pressure a bit.
I must admit that I have never used the sleeves to make the pedal fit my shoe snuggly. No idea if they are tight enough. Maybe I should try them too. But I can tell you that those cleats you showed.. are nowhere near at the end of their life. I've ridden cleats untill you just can see some kind of lip there to hold on the pedal. And they do, and did, disengage while riding just by pulling on the pedal.
I love my Candy’s and have used them for over 10 years.
Awesome review. Just threw a pair of new Eggbeater 1's that I had laying around onto a dedicated gravel bike. We shall see how they do.
Thanks for such a nice review of these pedals. It is actually helping me to decide if I should buy them. Cheers from NL.
Now this is how to do a review...! not I've just got them and their great? Actually having them for a length of time and then all the issues that followed. Thank you
Fantastic review. Exceptionally measured and detailed. I’ve been using Mallet DH pedals for 5 years and thousand of kms mainly on sand and next to salt water with no issues whatsoever. I’ve only just pulled them apart for a service - even though they really didn’t need it. I recently purchased the eggbeater 3s in your review for my road bike - I’ll be very interested to see how they go. Regardless I think they are an awesome product - certainly the best out there at the moment.
Thanks! I've also been using the Mallet pedals (but the E version) for about a year, but the bearings needed replacement after a year of use. If you keep an eye on the seals, to keep it free from debris and properly in place, you can extend the lifetime of the bearings. Despite the negative points, I still use Eggbeaters on my XC competition bike and especially like them in muddy conditions.
@@MTBguide when I'll have to service my mallets I'll use water resistant grease to see if it helps, maybe the pedals will not turn so easy as with normal grease but it is worth a try. Great video.
@@JeffWagen Thanks! Water resistant grease can be a good alternative. The bearings are on the opposite side of de seals/pedal, so water won't be much of an issue with light/normal use. But if you ride through streams with pedals emerged under water, definitely use water resistant grease 👍.
@@MTBguide usually I don't cross streams but here in Brazil most of the time the forest areas even in summer are pretty wet, and sometimes I get caught by the rain lol.
Great job reviewing this pedal !
sir I salute you on review of these pedals. Information you provide are above and beyond. Thank you very much
Thank you!
Great videos! Fair and thorough review.
Thanks!
Super nice and unbias review.
Just to note that while the chromoly did rust a bit, I doubt it would cause any performance issues. My Jeep axles are chromoly as well as some gun barrels that I have. Especially the axles have a thin layer of rust, but it's far from compromising the strength and integrity of the axle.
The only way I see rust on a chromoly spindle causing a problem is if it spreads into the seal and bearing where it would wear away the seal and cause premature wear and friction while the pedal spins.
Thank you! I agree that if the rust did not spread under the seals, it wouldn't be a problem. I used the old axles untill the rust was under the outer seal. If given more time I do think it would have continued further. The new ones that I replaced them with are ok, no visual damage/rust.
The problem was in the video he made you can clearly see that the rust on the spindle has penetrated under the outer seal in less than a single season of riding. Once that starts it is pretty much a certainty to continue penetrating further until you have compromised bearings. I seriously doubt you would get multiple seasons out of these things in any tough type of conditions without rust related performance issues. Crank Bros sponsored riders of course do not care about that because they are changing out new pedals and cleats constantly for free multiple times a season. :-)
Amazing review! The best I seen on UA-cam!
I ended up using Candy's after wiping out multiple wings on eggbeaters on rocks. Sadly the seals dont properly stop water ingress so the bearings do not last a winter in the UK.
I use EB1. Best value 4 money. Much lighter than spd for the same price. However slightly less intuitive clicking in. No wear so far but only did about 1000 km.
Shims, shields and sleeves. Too many setup hassle just fo avoid wear.
Used for about 8 months and about 2000 km, one spindle seems completely worn out (rust and deep scratches).The inner bushing is destroyed and I can't even get it out with the tool provided in the kit, just goes straight through it... Guess the improvement is more about cutting cost (bushing instead of those probably expensive needle bearings they used to have)
Very nice review. The super high replacement part costs basically make this a disposable pedal. Burn through the parts and buy a new set.. Plus the fact that in under one season the spindle is already showing rust under the outer bearing seal does not add up to longevity IMO. And you are right, the choice to use a chromoly spindle for an XC pedal is just plain stupid. It is an invitation for rust to set in pretty quickly, particularly when the outer seal in your vid did not seem to seal out water the way you would expect it to. Combine that with the tiny platform, and I'll stick with my XTR pedals. :-)
good overview- but the main bit you missed was that i'd say the 3's are worth it over the 1's and 2's because they can actually be serviced. CB states all 3, or at least the 2's and 3's, are serviceable by accessing the inner bits through a removable endcap. However, the 3's are the only pedal in the line with an alloy, hex key accessed end cap. The 2's have a horrid plastic that deforms at the suggestion you're going to try and get at it.
I had no real problems with plastic caps untill now removing them. They are not (often) really reuseable due to deforming, but the CB Pedal Refresh Kit contains new alloy end caps.
Excellent, i like the long time period. I have Time aliums on my 20 year old hard tail shockless bike. Probably 4k. Never maintained them, great pedals. Easy to get into with the ramps. It's the cleats that need replacing, mine are pretty bashed up like yours. I always wonder why any steel rusts, is it really steel? Or are there impurities? WE really never know what steel is in some of these products where the designers and the manufacturers are in different locations (countries) with different laws. On my new bike I am currently bashing up some bontrager spd commuters pedals, and my shins. Long commute, 2 months, 300 miles or so, Alot of the black paint is off. I am using a set of old cleats and new cleats. They are working pretty good but we'll see what play they end up with after 6 months. I hate the adjustment screw, but at least they have one (too small and the angle means you need a long allen key with good leverage. The screw head will strip imo).
Thanks! I really liked my old Time (ATAC) pedals as well, but the new ones not so much since the quality took quite the hit. The bearings do wear faster now and the adjustment screw broke on the new Time.
@@MTBguide ouch
Take notes, dit is hoe je een product reviewed! Zeer goede video.
Thank you for a very useful, detailed review!
Thank you!
Excellent review!
Nice video !
I used them for a year and 12 000km on a road bike as a bike messenger.
They now have a little bit of play that I can't adjust, one face can't really clip too on my left shoe 😕.
Will try Time Atac now
Thanks for sharing your experience :) I've also used Time Atac in the past and they were great. But in recent years i tried the XC6 and felt that their quality wasn't up to par anymore (also check the customer reviews on Chainreactioncycles). I hope that you have a good experience with them.
There aren't many similar alternatives. Look S-Track is one, but I haven't tried them out yet.
You can find crank bros on eBay. That's how I get mine.
You are the best reviewer
I was going to change my shimos with new one and was considering between pd-m540 and eggbeater 3. After 16000km it is still sellable except the shoe clamps which are rusted. Which was the main reason I was considering eggbeaters due to brass shoe clamps besides its lightweight. I don't want rusting shoes!
But watching your review, I've decided to go for rust, but stick with Japanese engineering.
Great review. My experience of Crank Brothers pedals is very similar. The fact is though that the 'lateral float' on these is awesome. Nonetheless, the build quality should be better and I find pedal mechanics to be a bit flimsy. The plastic bushing!?
Thank you for the data... VERY thorough - I learned things I didn't know, I needed to know -
Nice...
5000 MTB miles per year. That’s living the dream...
Haha I was thinking the same thing this year I’ve only been able to muster around 160 where I live if your tires make a track you shouldn’t ride since our dirt dries hard so any little indents when it’s when make the trail extremely bunny
Muy buen reportaje y conclusiones. Pero quizas no has comentado la gran ventaja de Crankbrothers respecto a Shimano, y es la flotabilidad una vez enganchados, es un seguro de vida para las rodillas . En Shimano vas demasido fijado sin juego lateral, por lo que es facil tener lesiones si no ajustas bien la cala
Informative content - thank you!
Very good review!!
Excellent review
Spd pedals are way more durable. But these look good.
Super review so easy to subscribe!
ridiculously fantastic video! you need more subs and likes holy crap
Thanks alot!
Great video! Thanks for sharing the info really appreciate it!
I've been using XTR pedals on my racing CX bike and always struggle to clip in when it's very muddy, I'm wondering if the eggbeaters work well after running through mud?
Cheers
There is a very noticeable difference between these pedals. I've ridden with XT and XTR pedals. Due to the open body and small contact surface of the Eggbeater, it clears mud better so you can clip in easier. In Shimano pedals you start to pack mud between the pedal body and cleat and can't clear it as fast/easy, causing issues clipping in in muddy conditions.
great video. Great year expenses guide!!
Half way tru the video. Im gonna say this is a very good product video. Subscribed.
You could buy the cheap ones and anodize them yourself. It's not hard at all to do. Then they would have a rust proof layer on them.
Great review
Thank you for such a detailed review, I will stick to shimano or look pedals.
How can I differentiate old/new?
my springs squeak like hell. pretty annoying seems I don't have a compressor or pressure wash. I might strip them down even though I've recently done so with refresher kit. I would not recommend crankbros and wish I had seen this helpful video before I bought mine. Although mine have done 7000km, so I wonder what a Shimano would be like at 7000?
I've had too many pedal strikes, (crashes) I went back to SPD's..
So just buy a pair of shimano pedals and forget about service and all that shiit 😂
But the Shimano pedala are a heavier than these ,and if you lost or broke a bolt or an spring on the ride ,because the corrosion and all the dirt (mood and sand) filled on their short cavities is a trouble shit,even if you do the maintenance.
Buy Shimano or Time. Those will last you a lifetime and require basically no maintenance. Time's are actually lighter than Eggbeaters.
thanks for the review!! I understand that competing and using them quite a bit put some strain on the bearings. What do you reckon about using Eggbeaters for daily commute and occasional gravel cycling?
only 1box 1 pedal ?
And now in 2020 did you make any other test on the new models? If so they improve something ?
Nothing new to mention besides a slightly different color. Bearings and seals are still the same. The pedal axle as mentioned in the video was replaced under warranty. I have newer Mallet E's and those show no signs of rust.
i used candy3 for 10 years.
no issure just clean and grease
so do also the eggbeaters 1 and 2 have new barings
yes, they also have the enduro bearings
im planning to get the eggbeater 11 but i heard it has a weight limit?im a heavy ride. i weigh 87 kilos
Yea, the 11 has a weight limit of 90kg. So with gear you're probably at the limit. As far as i know the Eggbeater 3 doesn't have that limit.
shimano SPD are only as good as your shoe threads, it rocks sideways on my old shoes because the thread no longer touch the pedal body
Does the Crankbrothers different levels of stiffnes release like the shimano SH51 SH56 Click R?
Nope. A spring is a spring.
It went together easily in less than an hour. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
They look so simple and light but....
Warning: regardless of the pedals you are using, if you come to a stop and have not clicked out and cannot click out in a small fraction of a second, you will fall over sideways unless you are a highly experienced rider capable of balancing upright like the pros do, or unless you stop near something tall enough you can hold on to or lean against. If you stop and fall over you will likely impact your hip joint. If you fall more than once, you will likely impact your hip joint each time in the same place. If you fall in front of automobile traffic, you will likely suffer severe injury or death, hence the warning on the CB box. You had better become VERY GOOD at disengaging the pedals (yes, it requires practice, and LOTS of it, too), because there will be times when you must disengage in less than one heartbeat, or suffer the consequences of wherever your fall takes you. I cannot easily disengage from the crank bros eggbeater 1 pedals I got about 5 months ago, and as a result have fallen several times, mostly due to not thinking ahead. Instructions do not mention adjustment of spring tension of CB eggbeater pedals; blogs confirm that spring tension is NOT adjustable. Keep your head about you if you are riding CB eggbeater pedals in the city or around traffic. Do not stop for a beer. Recently got a set of SPD pedals with spring tension adjustment. Although you could still fall from a failure to unclip from SPD pedals, they CAN be adjusted to disengage much more easily than the CB eggbeater pedals. Although another blog recommended CB eggbeaters as great for those just starting out with clipless pedals, I beg to differ based on my degree from the School of Hard Knocks, where I graduated summa cum laude. I recommend SPD pedals for those just starting out with clipless pedals, due to spring tension adjustability. Thats just their game.
Something to also consider besides spring tension is the click-out angle, that angle is (also due to the amount of float) pretty big on CB pedals. It requires a lot of movement and if you are not used to it, it can make clicking out more difficult. Some Time ATAC pedals feature spring adjustment and come closest in comparison to Eggbeaters. Everyone falls with clipless pedals when they start out and yes, you need to practice with it. Eggbeaters aren't really pedals you want to start out with, bigger pedal bodies that provide guidance are easier and provide more support when you miss. There are always risks, but when your kid is learning to ride a bike you don't send it into traffic, so why should you if you can't safely disengage from your bike. I hope that most points are common sense for most people participating in traffic. Pedals are a personal preference, especially clipless. When starting out with mountain biking, go flat pedals and really learn how to ride instead of cheating with clipless. When you do go clipless, I do recommend seeking professional advice on how to properly set them up. I've seen to many people get knee and back issues from improperly setup clipless pedals.
That is interesting and helpful (the suggestion to try alternative clipless). I'm riding on eggbeaters for about a year now. I've been through a few standstill falls and all were practically without any injuries (just scratches, once a bent rear derailleur). However there are two other vectors (for clipless in general): 1. abrupt stop in a tilted position (in a curve) - you cannot unclip while braking as the forces pushing you to the pedals won't allow that, and when stopped in a tilted position, there only are milliseconds to unclip because a lot of time is still spent on rebound from the braking (I happened to hurt my wrist joint quite badly, no fracture just pain for months, but probably also due to be completely unfocused on the ride at the time of fall - however on flats I would not have fallen). 2. Will the clipless pedals unclip during a serious crash? What are the forces? (I cannot find these data anywhere.) Can the bike's rotation with you attached snap your spine? Will your ankles break? etc. Or, OTOH, will you actually be protected more than if your lower brain tried to save you by waving your legs to all sides?
Few advices for the eggbeaters: 1. keep them greased (yes, also the external springs!), 2. on start of every ride, unclip and re-clip on each side (my right side always unclips harder the first time for some reason), but also do this to refresh your brain on how much leg movement is necessary to actually unclip, in case you need it abruptly. Also, possibly, not tried yet but I will: 3. use spacers between shoe and cleat, 4. pre-rotate the cleat on the shoe so that smaller movement is necessary to unclip (may be dangerous).
shimano spd rules
stop hating on crankbros yall
Great video !!! I forwarded to a crappy italian fellow who has done a trash/absourd review on this pedals...
seriously, you expexted the pedals to last over 4000 miles without needing a service? I understand you clearly ride your bikes a lot and all year long, but the majority of the people looking at these pedals will never do 1000 miles a year.. even pro xc racers barely put in that many miles each year. To me, if you trully used them as much as you say you did, you definitely got your moneys worth. Thanks for the review, Ill continue running my crankbro pedals :)
So....bearings need replacement about every 5000 k or 3000 miles or 2+ times per year for someone who rides daily. 2 'refresh' kits + 2 sets of cleats = $80+ per year. No thanks.
Damn that’s expensive to maintain
What a huge pain in the ass. Just get Shimano SPD’s.
These products are made in taiwan. Thought I was buying American made products but they are Taiwanese . Don't buy . And you will probably have to take off of work to wait around all day for the package. They only ship signature required through dhl from Taiwan.
Damm, 450$ for a pair od pedals. Im so damn broke for that...