I remember once Getting a false reading from my amp clamp, I had stupidly left a flash light next to the clamp and it's magnet had me chasing a fault that wasn't there. I soon figured out what was happening. Now I prefer to go in series with a multimeter when checking for a drain. Thanks for watching
Same old Matt. Really don’t understand people’s drive to install aftermarket equipment. Often ends in tears. “Ghost Voltage”. Sounds like somebody’s been reading some of Dan Sullivan’s material. Cheers Pal
Yes, it was Dan Sullivan. I wish I new to check for millivolts over the fuse when I worked at LandRover, I had a similar thing, I pulled a fuse and rechecked amps at the battery, every time I put a fuse back it would wake up the car and I would have to wait for it to go back to sleep again. Thanks for watching
Great find Matt, those can be tricky...I had a trailer brake module once that would occasionally stay on...and yes aftermarket install, took a while to find that one..... 👍👍👍
I like the fuse loops, I really should get a pair, I'm slowly adding to my collection of tools. I think the uni-t all-in one voltmeter and amp clamp looks good too. I find with my add on amp clamp it gives me questionable milliamp readings when I check around the battery cable, it may be because the clamp couldn't fully close. Thanks for watching
I found a 400 milliamp draw from our suspension ecu in a 2006 range rover sport HSE. Can I pull the fuse as a temporary measure? Does this circuit only need to be active when CHANGING suspension height, or is it always necessary?
BTW, how do you guys do this inside the passenger glove box fuses? I am 6'3" and 190bs, I can barely sit in that sport, let alone get my hands in that space and hold the leads close enough together to get an accurate reading!
I have a 2007 LR3 4.4 HSE Second time within a year I've installed a new alternator and battery. The headlights and dash lights, screen etc. Seem to " flicker" and there is a battery Drain overnight whilst parked, the horn fuse keeps blowing, I have started running a battery charger at night as there is a pericidic Drain of some type.... Thoughts? Oh and the alarm seems to be going crazy aswell as lately if I use my Fob to lock the door, it wont unlock with the fob, I then have to unlock with the key, setting off the alarm until I start the engine. Baffled.
Hi i have a 2004 landrover hse the battery says 13v the key wont turn in the ignition and nothing in the car works cant turn anything on even with the key not in the ignition but the battery is saying 13v any advice please?
First are you able to lock and unlock the car via your ignition key? If not try putting a new battery in the key fob. Also does the steering lock unlock when the key is brought close to the ignition switch. Usually the steering wheel might twitch and you hear it unlock, but at the same time the ignition switch will unlock itself and allow you to turn the ignition on. I'm having trouble with this as the parasitic draw is pulling my battery voltage so low even overnight so that the ignition sensor won't react to my ket being brought near or inserted into the switch. I have a big diesel battery under the floor by the rear fuse board and it connects to the main cable of the fuse board via a 100 amp relay which is powered only when the ignition is on. But if the battery voltage is too low for the ignition to be put on then it can't help the starting. Temporarily I am going to run a pair of wires via a 5 amp fuse from the positive of the diesel battery to a switch up front and back to the live side of the relay so that if I can't turn the ignition on, I flick the switch and I have 12 volts into the system which allows me to turn the ignition on. I leave it on for a minute or so to give the main battery some juice before I attempt to start the car. ( mine's a 4.2 Supercharged) the engine only has to spin a couple of times and it bursts into life. I have yet to find this parasitic drain, but I suspect it's in the infotainment system somewhere. It's definitely Not the HVAC system as I've checked that a number of times locking the drivers door lock with it open and letting the car go to sleep and not a peep out of the little heating fan.
It’s your steering column unfortunately with the locking mechanism- you can bypassed it with a switch that you use every start up or find a good used one at a salvage yard like I did. Between labor and the column I spend 1000 but no problems since.
I’m having a problem where I changed my alternater and battery and checked to make sure it’s all connected correctly yet it’s not recharging the battery at all and soon as I turn the car on it’s telling me I have a dead battery
It’s you a/c control panel unit there’s a little fan running where your control the temp and heated seats look it up on UA-cam or it may be you final stage resistor or fuses lol
Hi Matt I own a Range Rover 2004 L322 TD6, I haven't used the car for a while and the air con is refusing to blow cold, I had the air con re-gassed a year ago and it worked perfect, I have checked and can see that the clutch on the air con unit is not spinning so obviously it isn't pumping, also the vehicle has always had a big voltage drop problem on the bateery, even after I put a new battery on it after a long run the next day it would read only A Quarter of battery life but it would start the car OK, NOW that I have not Been using it much it is obviously flattening battery after a few days, Any help and advise would be greatly appreciated, Regards Andrew
The air con may just be a slow leak since it has been a while after the AC service, if it hasn't got the pressure the AC clutch won't engage. Possible AC condenser leak. The battery drain could be anything, usually anything added to the car, aftermarket extras, but really needs checked with an amp clamp, or voltage drop across fuses with a multimeter. One other thing, if your car is standing for a few days without starting it, try charging your battery either off the car or with the battery cable disconnected, after the battery is charged, leave it a couple of days if you don't need to use the car, then load test it, if you don't have a load tester put it back on the car, if the battery is dead and unable to crank the car you would know it's a bad battery that no longer holds a charge. Thanks for watching
Hi you going bro Great video thank you for your precious time bro 😎 I have a question for you please! I own a 1998 Range Rover p38 , do you have any idea what fuse front windows Numer are ? Cheers Matt 😊
It looks like F1 10amp in the body control module. Also the wires near to the door hinge are likely to break over time from opening and closing the doors. Cheers Matt
Omg Brother !! I really thank you so very much Bro Really you are a true Man top genuine person who knows what help other means 😎🥰😊👍👍👍👍bro May God bless you in every breath you take and in every walk you make and give you and your family and beloved ones best health happiness Amen 🙏🏻 Thank you so very much brother Cheers Matt 😊👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Always been a fan of voltage drop across the fuses for parasitic draw. Be useful for viewers if you say what an acceptable level is as a known good, eg 50mv or less
Thanks Pete, you are right. LandRover said 20 milliamps when I worked there. I will add it to the description. I have heard people say 50 milliamps or less for other cars . Thanks for watching and your recommendation.
One of the more difficult jobs slow battery drain,,Very time consuming waiting for a modern day car to go to sleep! Nice work Matt ..
I remember once Getting a false reading from my amp clamp, I had stupidly left a flash light next to the clamp and it's magnet had me chasing a fault that wasn't there. I soon figured out what was happening. Now I prefer to go in series with a multimeter when checking for a drain.
Thanks for watching
Same old Matt. Really don’t understand people’s drive to install aftermarket equipment. Often ends in tears. “Ghost Voltage”. Sounds like somebody’s been reading some of Dan Sullivan’s material. Cheers Pal
Yes, it was Dan Sullivan. I wish I new to check for millivolts over the fuse when I worked at LandRover, I had a similar thing, I pulled a fuse and rechecked amps at the battery, every time I put a fuse back it would wake up the car and I would have to wait for it to go back to sleep again.
Thanks for watching
Great find Matt, those can be tricky...I had a trailer brake module once that would occasionally stay on...and yes aftermarket install, took a while to find that one..... 👍👍👍
I like the fuse loops, I really should get a pair, I'm slowly adding to my collection of tools.
I think the uni-t all-in one voltmeter and amp clamp looks good too.
I find with my add on amp clamp it gives me questionable milliamp readings when I check around the battery cable, it may be because the clamp couldn't fully close.
Thanks for watching
I found a 400 milliamp draw from our suspension ecu in a 2006 range rover sport HSE. Can I pull the fuse as a temporary measure? Does this circuit only need to be active when CHANGING suspension height, or is it always necessary?
Loving the intensity of the videos coming out great job
Thanks mate
BTW, how do you guys do this inside the passenger glove box fuses? I am 6'3" and 190bs, I can barely sit in that sport, let alone get my hands in that space and hold the leads close enough together to get an accurate reading!
Great work , looking forward to the next 1 !. thanks.
Thanks John
I have a 2007 LR3 4.4 HSE
Second time within a year I've installed a new alternator and battery.
The headlights and dash lights, screen etc. Seem to " flicker" and there is a battery Drain overnight whilst parked, the horn fuse keeps blowing, I have started running a battery charger at night as there is a pericidic Drain of some type....
Thoughts?
Oh and the alarm seems to be going crazy aswell as lately if I use my Fob to lock the door, it wont unlock with the fob, I then have to unlock with the key, setting off the alarm until I start the engine.
Baffled.
Hi i have a 2004 landrover hse the battery says 13v the key wont turn in the ignition and nothing in the car works cant turn anything on even with the key not in the ignition but the battery is saying 13v any advice please?
First are you able to lock and unlock the car via your ignition key? If not try putting a new battery in the key fob. Also does the steering lock unlock when the key is brought close to the ignition switch. Usually the steering wheel might twitch and you hear it unlock, but at the same time the ignition switch will unlock itself and allow you to turn the ignition on. I'm having trouble with this as the parasitic draw is pulling my battery voltage so low even overnight so that the ignition sensor won't react to my ket being brought near or inserted into the switch. I have a big diesel battery under the floor by the rear fuse board and it connects to the main cable of the fuse board via a 100 amp relay which is powered only when the ignition is on. But if the battery voltage is too low for the ignition to be put on then it can't help the starting. Temporarily I am going to run a pair of wires via a 5 amp fuse from the positive of the diesel battery to a switch up front and back to the live side of the relay so that if I can't turn the ignition on, I flick the switch and I have 12 volts into the system which allows me to turn the ignition on. I leave it on for a minute or so to give the main battery some juice before I attempt to start the car. ( mine's a 4.2 Supercharged) the engine only has to spin a couple of times and it bursts into life. I have yet to find this parasitic drain, but I suspect it's in the infotainment system somewhere. It's definitely Not the HVAC system as I've checked that a number of times locking the drivers door lock with it open and letting the car go to sleep and not a peep out of the little heating fan.
It’s your steering column unfortunately with the locking mechanism- you can bypassed it with a switch that you use every start up or find a good used one at a salvage yard like I did. Between labor and the column I spend 1000 but no problems since.
I had the same issue I believe now I’ve solved it turns out it was a incorrect relay plugged in to the bottom row sockets on right in the boot 😊
Love my amp hound nice find
power probe have a good sites for drain chart for volt across the fuse....👍
Thanks I'll check that out
@@mechanicmatt871 www.powerprobe.com/fuse-voltage-drop-charts
I’ve got a power drain on the same car… don’t even know where to start 😞
I’m having a problem where I changed my alternater and battery and checked to make sure it’s all connected correctly yet it’s not recharging the battery at all and soon as I turn the car on it’s telling me I have a dead battery
It may be worth checking the fuses for a blown alternator fuse. Check for power at the big post on the alternator.
It’s you a/c control panel unit there’s a little fan running where your control the temp and heated seats look it up on UA-cam or it may be you final stage resistor or fuses lol
A/c control panel
Hi Matt
I own a Range Rover 2004 L322 TD6, I haven't used the car for a while and the air con is refusing to blow cold, I had the air con re-gassed a year ago and it worked perfect, I have checked and can see that the clutch on the air con unit is not spinning so obviously it isn't pumping, also the vehicle has always had a big voltage drop problem on the bateery, even after I put a new battery on it after a long run the next day it would read only A Quarter of battery life but it would start the car OK, NOW that I have not Been using it much it is obviously flattening battery after a few days, Any help and advise would be greatly appreciated, Regards Andrew
The air con may just be a slow leak since it has been a while after the AC service, if it hasn't got the pressure the AC clutch won't engage.
Possible AC condenser leak.
The battery drain could be anything, usually anything added to the car, aftermarket extras, but really needs checked with an amp clamp, or voltage drop across fuses with a multimeter.
One other thing, if your car is standing for a few days without starting it, try charging your battery either off the car or with the battery cable disconnected, after the battery is charged, leave it a couple of days if you don't need to use the car, then load test it, if you don't have a load tester put it back on the car, if the battery is dead and unable to crank the car you would know it's a bad battery that no longer holds a charge.
Thanks for watching
Hi you going bro
Great video thank you for your precious time bro 😎
I have a question for you please!
I own a 1998 Range Rover p38 , do you have any idea what fuse front windows Numer are ?
Cheers
Matt 😊
Thanks, I don't know what fuse it would be, I use the carmin std app. It's free and It may help you out.
It looks like F1 10amp in the body control module. Also the wires near to the door hinge are likely to break over time from opening and closing the doors. Cheers Matt
Omg Brother !!
I really thank you so very much Bro
Really you are a true Man top genuine person who knows what help other means 😎🥰😊👍👍👍👍bro May God bless you in every breath you take and in every walk you make and give you and your family and beloved ones best health happiness Amen 🙏🏻
Thank you so very much brother
Cheers Matt 😊👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Always been a fan of voltage drop across the fuses for parasitic draw.
Be useful for viewers if you say what an acceptable level is as a known good, eg 50mv or less
Thanks Pete, you are right. LandRover said 20 milliamps when I worked there. I will add it to the description.
I have heard people say 50 milliamps or less for other cars .
Thanks for watching and your recommendation.
@@mechanicmatt871 Thomas sends his regards and hopes you are well. It was him that sent me the link to your channel.