So Mr. Foot turned out to be a real monster! I would apologize for the “nightmare” job Bob, but dang, I learned so much from this I can’t apologize. I will adjust my sculpts in the future thanks to your lessons. Much appreciated, mission accomplished. I am very happy with the results and hope this series of videos will help many more sculptors and mold makers in the future.
Larry - I take it you're the master designer of this masterpiece?!? I thoroughly enjoyed the journey as well...everything has its issues and problems, we are 'glad' that there were minor issues and flaws, so that we could see a master-class at work. I am neither a scupltor, modeler or painter, but I find Bob's work to be mesmerizing. I do have a degree in engineering, so maybe I'm enjoying the technical aspects of the channel. But, I can design things and 3D print them. Maybe that's the connection... Great content and problem-solving. I've watched every episode with amazement. Kudos to masters at work. Look forward to many more in the future.
Hi Mr Tolone. Thanks for your nice videos. You really make great work. Are you still taking projects ? I would maybe have one for you :-) If you still taking projects, where could I contact you to get a quote and to talk to you in more details about it ? Thanks ! Fred
Hi Fred, thanks for reaching out to me. I am currently only accepting projects for my channel. If you would like to participate send pics to me at robert tolone@yahoo.com
Great content!!! I started following you because I wanted to start creating sculptures and reproducing kits of a character from our new comic SASQUATCH: KLONDIKE haha... I'd really like your input in how I should sculpt for a multiple part model for the hobbyist! How can I contact you!?!
Robert! It's Liza. Jenny's daughter. I just typed in Poly Urethane scuplture tutorial onto Google and this is the FIRST video to pop up! So nice to see a familiar face. I'm working on a polymer sculpture right now that im trying to see if I can add a "cheesy greasy oily" effect to by adding a build up of poly on. Ideas?? I'm making a pizza fave from the House IV horror movie for a client.
Bob, I assume that Mr. Hairy gets painted after the sculptor finishes filling in all the blanks. I hope he or she doesn’t want to make too many of these. As you said there’s a lot of work to be done on each resin copy of Mr. Hairy.
Yes, mold release can be very helpful. But it is a double-edged sword. It tends to stick to the resin and must be very carefully cleaned off the casting if you plan to paint it. Many releases are silicone-based and are most excellent at resisting paint!
Thank you again for a master lesson. Since I do mostly figurative casting Mr.Foot really helped me on my projects. I have improved a lot on how to clamp my molds and anything you showed in your videos was proofed to work fine for me as well. Big Thank You Mr. Tolone. Best regards from Germany and stay safe ...
Thanks Wolli! There are several figure sculptures coming up, from very small to the biggest piece we’ve worked on so far. Looking forward to doing them!
Could you have Added an edge with hot glue gun around the bottom of the feet So that you could overfill your resin? Could you spray mold release inside your rubber mold before pouring your resin?
Yes to both things. But I always raise the feet in the original sculpt so I don't have to mess with it later. Also, I try to avoid mold release because it's so hard to clean off resin castings, especially if you're going to paint them.
Is there a way to inject the resin or make it enter the mold quickly? It is that the models I make are very small and complex, in addition to the fact that the type of resin I need and use begins to cure in less than 3 min and at 15 minutes I can take it out of the mold. Thank you very much and excellent channel, greetings from Mexico!
People use all sorts of methods for injecting the resin: syringes, hand pumps etc. I never bother. I just match the inlet sprue diameter to the size of the part to be cast. A small part that is properly sprued and vented should fill in a few seconds just using gravity. My resin demolds in 20 minutes; faster if the shop is hot. I often cast highly detailed figures that are 10 - 12 mm high no problem with gravity fed urethane in silicone molds. That said, there are lots of videos on youtube showing how the inject resin. I don’t like doing it because I can cast a piece in the less time than it takes me to load the injector with resin.
I was only used it the make quick open-back molds of simple things. So I haven’t used it much. I find it often catches air between the model and the mold but maybe if I used it a lot my technique would get better.
Would it be possible to build a little reservoir around the feet on the mold so that you can cast a little extra resin there for the bottom of the feet? I'm thinking maybe take some hot glue and just build this tiny little wall around the opening in the mold where the feet are so that it can hold just a tad more than the actual top surface of the mold as it originally is at present?
Yes, you could do that. And I have resorted to such horrors in the past. But it is so much simpler to build that extra mass under the feet in the original model and mold it along with the sculpture. Had a client sent me that figurine I would have built up the feet myself before making the mold. But I left them the way they were to demonstrate the problem to my viewers. It is one of the first mistakes almost every resin caster makes, and one that we all quickly learn to avoid.
Marathon effort there Bob , now you need a master with sculpted hair on it but done properly so it casts a lot cleaner and leaves no RTV residue . Interesting as always .
No, because the vent fills up with resin during the casting process and you have to be able to release it out. Vents are the best way to guide your cuts through the mold and they must be cut to release the casting. And the other objection I have is that I will not let water get anywhere near my molds. It is so hard, especially in this hairy monster of a mold, to be sure that all of the water is out of the million little crevices. It might not be so bad in the desert but where I live near the beach the damn thing will never dry out. I have developed severe hydrophobia.
i'm re-looking this video and it make me think to something. The only thing that miss you guys in US are genuine robertson Square bit screw. the one that never fall of the screw driver. and I think, correct me if i'm wrong we are the only to get these here in canada. One day i'll send you a box of 1 1/2" you gonna fall in love with these screw.
We have them here, along with Torx and other screws. Robertson’s were invented in Canada which is why they are so much more common there. But they are gaining in popularity here as well. They’re often called square drive screws. Send me an assortment 1/2” to 1 1/2” flat or pan head, I’ll use them on the channel to build mold cases and I’ll call them Melo’s screws in your honor! 😄😄👍
@@RobertTolone hahahaha flat head!!! damm these screws deserve the name of futur wounded screws, or after self taping screws.. self stabbing screws!!! I was pretty sure you in US didn'T have square head. It's a cool thing that robertson's screws finally travel the border. The greatest nation in the world without the greatest screw sound to me like... duh!!! I watched docu on this kinda political war between Philips and Robertson. ... So you left me with a mission.. finding flat screws.. we at the hardware store don't have since years flat head screw, the only places i know i can find them are those little white ones that come within the packaging of electrical switch plate. Don't forget, we are the Robertson nation hahahahaha A few weeks ago i tried to bought a 6" flat bit, everyone know the more long is the bit easier it is to work with, and i went 3 different store and nada!! nothing!! And the guy told me he do not have these in store since years like 5 years he said.. damm.. i suddenly feel old.... sooooo on my way to find you flat head.. hahahahaha
God Bless America! You can buy pretty much anything here. We only think we’re the greatest nation on the earth because most Americans have never traveled anywhere!
@@RobertToloneI think i miss interpret flat head and flat drive.. humm i get it. it's my frenchie side. We have flat head but not flat drive the original stabber screws hahahahaha. Yep you're right on this about the greatest nation. I was kidding a bit. The ole world is beautiful. Did you visit the province Québec?
Yeah it's usually simple to do a 2nd pour if you under measure the volume. Unless you're like me and can't ever get the color of the 2nd pour to match the first. 😮💨
I can never get the color to match. So I mix more colored B-side resin than I need. That way I can top off with the same colored resin. Quite honestly I prefer to waste resin on the first pour. It is cheaper to waste a little resin than to waste the time it takes to make that second pour.
@@robertarthropthesecond That’s correct. Rubber with a very high modulus of elongation and great tear resistance would help. I use an economy grade of rubber and you could argue that a better quality rubber would last longer. I would hate to put release agent on this mold, especially silicone spray. Just the thought of cleaning that release agent off prior to painting makes me tired.
Hi Robert. Considering how much of mold was caught in the casting, I was wondering if you made a decision prior to the casting to not use mold release. Are you not a fan of mold release. Do you think it would have helped in this case? Thanks so much for the videos. I thought I knew a lot about all this but I seem to learn something new from every one of your videos, so thank you for sharing your expertise!
Most of the hair tear-out was mechanical locking. So a release would have helped a little but not a lot. I’m assuming the sculpture will be painted and I really hate cleaning release agent from a casting destined to be painted. So I very rarely use them.
So Mr. Foot turned out to be a real monster! I would apologize for the “nightmare” job Bob, but dang, I learned so much from this I can’t apologize. I will adjust my sculpts in the future thanks to your lessons. Much appreciated, mission accomplished. I am very happy with the results and hope this series of videos will help many more sculptors and mold makers in the future.
Larry - I take it you're the master designer of this masterpiece?!? I thoroughly enjoyed the journey as well...everything has its issues and problems, we are 'glad' that there were minor issues and flaws, so that we could see a master-class at work.
I am neither a scupltor, modeler or painter, but I find Bob's work to be mesmerizing. I do have a degree in engineering, so maybe I'm enjoying the technical aspects of the channel. But, I can design things and 3D print them. Maybe that's the connection...
Great content and problem-solving. I've watched every episode with amazement. Kudos to masters at work. Look forward to many more in the future.
yeah, better than just getting it back and the mold maker charging more for all the extra work!
Mr. Foot was a lot of fun and I’m pleased that the casting came out as well as it did. Thanks so much for sending it in!
"its that rod i jammed down into mr foot".... we've all been there at some point in our life.
Hmm? "We'll de -gunkify that" will be my motto from now on :) Thanks for the video, as always quite interesting.
It is a most useful word😀
Degunkify. Ha ha That’s the kind of word that I would make up
It’s a most useful word. ❤️
Hi Mr Tolone.
Thanks for your nice videos.
You really make great work.
Are you still taking projects ? I would maybe have one for you :-)
If you still taking projects, where could I contact you to get a quote and to talk to you in more details about it ?
Thanks !
Fred
Hi Fred, thanks for reaching out to me. I am currently only accepting projects for my channel.
If you would like to participate send pics to me at robert tolone@yahoo.com
I always learn something from you.
Thank you sir, great video.
Thanks Henry!
Great content!!! I started following you because I wanted to start creating sculptures and reproducing kits of a character from our new comic SASQUATCH: KLONDIKE haha... I'd really like your input in how I should sculpt for a multiple part model for the hobbyist! How can I contact you!?!
Reach me at roberttolone@yahoo.com
I love it!❤️🤗
Great series Robert. Learn so much watching you work through some of these challenges. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Even failures comes with great learning. 😁👏👍 Try and error.
I shall be lobbying the Oxford Dictionary folks to include “degunkify” in the big book.
It’s long overdue. Should’ve been there decades ago.
very informative, very helpful, appreciation sir.
Yabba-Daba-Do!! Great video. Really enjoyed it.
Turned out great for how complex it is. i seen the next series of the lego piece...well done there too.
Robert! It's Liza. Jenny's daughter. I just typed in Poly Urethane scuplture tutorial onto Google and this is the FIRST video to pop up! So nice to see a familiar face. I'm working on a polymer sculpture right now that im trying to see if I can add a "cheesy greasy oily" effect to by adding a build up of poly on. Ideas?? I'm making a pizza fave from the House IV horror movie for a client.
Hey Liza, have you tried some sort of gloss medium or epoxy resin to simulate the grease?
Your videos are sooo helpful, I’ll be attempting to create molds in the next couple weeks and your tips and tricks are so much appreciated!
Thanks Mel, I’m glad that my videos are useful to you!
Boo ya
Bob, I assume that Mr. Hairy gets painted after the sculptor finishes filling in all the blanks. I hope he or she doesn’t want to make too many of these. As you said there’s a lot of work to be done on each resin copy of Mr. Hairy.
I have no idea what Larry has done with his Mr Foot mold. Have not received any follow up.
Bob, can you spray release on the mold before you pour the resin so that you don’t have the resin stick to the mold as it did with Mr. Hairy Man?
Yes, mold release can be very helpful. But it is a double-edged sword. It tends to stick to the resin and must be very carefully cleaned off the casting if you plan to paint it. Many releases are silicone-based and are most excellent at resisting paint!
Thank you again for a master lesson. Since I do mostly figurative casting Mr.Foot really helped me on my projects. I have improved a lot on how to clamp my molds and anything you showed in your videos was proofed to work fine for me as well. Big Thank You Mr. Tolone. Best regards from Germany and stay safe ...
Thank you. 🙂
Thanks Wolli! There are several figure sculptures coming up, from very small to the biggest piece we’ve worked on so far. Looking forward to doing them!
Could you have Added an edge with hot glue gun around the bottom of the feet So that you could overfill your resin? Could you spray mold release inside your rubber mold before pouring your resin?
Yes to both things. But I always raise the feet in the original sculpt so I don't have to mess with it later. Also, I try to avoid mold release because it's so hard to clean off resin castings, especially if you're going to paint them.
Amazing knowledge.
Hi Bob - I sent you email about a tiny lead part. Hope you get it, thanks.
Yes, Chris, I emailed you a reply.
Is there a way to inject the resin or make it enter the mold quickly? It is that the models I make are very small and complex, in addition to the fact that the type of resin I need and use begins to cure in less than 3 min and at 15 minutes I can take it out of the mold. Thank you very much and excellent channel, greetings from Mexico!
People use all sorts of methods for injecting the resin: syringes, hand pumps etc. I never bother. I just match the inlet sprue diameter to the size of the part to be cast. A small part that is properly sprued and vented should fill in a few seconds just using gravity. My resin demolds in 20 minutes; faster if the shop is hot. I often cast highly detailed figures that are 10 - 12 mm high no problem with gravity fed urethane in silicone molds. That said, there are lots of videos on youtube showing how the inject resin. I don’t like doing it because I can cast a piece in the less time than it takes me to load the injector with resin.
@@RobertTolone thank you very much!! I'll try to make the inlet sprue wider
What do you think about silicone putty to make complex molds?
I was only used it the make quick open-back molds of simple things. So I haven’t used it much. I find it often catches air between the model and the mold but maybe if I used it a lot my technique would get better.
Made a no foot
Mr. Foot turned out really neat!
Yes, I was pleased with him. Despite the obvious errors he came out Ok.
Would it be possible to build a little reservoir around the feet on the mold so that you can cast a little extra resin there for the bottom of the feet? I'm thinking maybe take some hot glue and just build this tiny little wall around the opening in the mold where the feet are so that it can hold just a tad more than the actual top surface of the mold as it originally is at present?
Yes, you could do that. And I have resorted to such horrors in the past. But it is so much simpler to build that extra mass under the feet in the original model and mold it along with the sculpture. Had a client sent me that figurine I would have built up the feet myself before making the mold. But I left them the way they were to demonstrate the problem to my viewers. It is one of the first mistakes almost every resin caster makes, and one that we all quickly learn to avoid.
@@RobertTolone Ah, I see. You intended for this to happen so you could teach us! :-D
Marathon effort there Bob , now you need a master with sculpted hair on it but done properly so it casts a lot cleaner and leaves no RTV residue . Interesting as always .
With my luck someone will send me a Bernini to mold and cast!
Couldn’t you just melt out this sprew with warm water? Do you have to cut down through it?
No, because the vent fills up with resin during the casting process and you have to be able to release it out. Vents are the best way to guide your cuts through the mold and they must be cut to release the casting. And the other objection I have is that I will not let water get anywhere near my molds. It is so hard, especially in this hairy monster of a mold, to be sure that all of the water is out of the million little crevices. It might not be so bad in the desert but where I live near the beach the damn thing will never dry out. I have developed severe hydrophobia.
@@RobertTolone Oh that makes sense! Someday I’ll think of something helpful that you haven’t considered yet.
@@annekabrimhall1059 That shouldn’t take very long given the vast number of things that I haven’t considered yet.
@@RobertTolone I see it as a challenge!
Lovely video, I like Mr. Foot. =) Thanks for all the good advice you are providing here.
Thanks Roger!
i'm re-looking this video and it make me think to something. The only thing that miss you guys in US are genuine robertson Square bit screw. the one that never fall of the screw driver. and I think, correct me if i'm wrong we are the only to get these here in canada.
One day i'll send you a box of 1 1/2" you gonna fall in love with these screw.
We have them here, along with Torx and other screws. Robertson’s were invented in Canada which is why they are so much more common there. But they are gaining in popularity here as well. They’re often called square drive screws. Send me an assortment 1/2” to 1 1/2” flat or pan head, I’ll use them on the channel to build mold cases and I’ll call them Melo’s screws in your honor! 😄😄👍
@@RobertTolone hahahaha flat head!!! damm these screws deserve the name of futur wounded screws, or after self taping screws.. self stabbing screws!!!
I was pretty sure you in US didn'T have square head. It's a cool thing that robertson's screws finally travel the border.
The greatest nation in the world without the greatest screw sound to me like... duh!!!
I watched docu on this kinda political war between Philips and Robertson. ... So you left me with a mission.. finding flat screws.. we at the hardware store don't have since years flat head screw, the only places i know i can find them are those little white ones that come within the packaging of electrical switch plate.
Don't forget, we are the Robertson nation hahahahaha
A few weeks ago i tried to bought a 6" flat bit, everyone know the more long is the bit easier it is to work with, and i went 3 different store and nada!! nothing!!
And the guy told me he do not have these in store since years like 5 years he said.. damm.. i suddenly feel old.... sooooo on my way to find you flat head.. hahahahaha
@@thebeheader Here they are, flat head Robertson screws!
www.amazon.com/dp/B007HV6XJW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_2E0RDED1R9JQ3YC8751B
God Bless America! You can buy pretty much anything here. We only think we’re the greatest nation on the earth because most Americans have never traveled anywhere!
@@RobertToloneI think i miss interpret flat head and flat drive.. humm i get it. it's my frenchie side.
We have flat head but not flat drive the original stabber screws hahahahaha.
Yep you're right on this about the greatest nation. I was kidding a bit. The ole world is beautiful. Did you visit the province Québec?
Thanks Robert, this video answered plenty of questions I had. : )
I’m glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!
Yeah it's usually simple to do a 2nd pour if you under measure the volume. Unless you're like me and can't ever get the color of the 2nd pour to match the first. 😮💨
I can never get the color to match. So I mix more colored B-side resin than I need. That way I can top off with the same colored resin. Quite honestly I prefer to waste resin on the first pour. It is cheaper to waste a little resin than to waste the time it takes to make that second pour.
@@RobertTolone I never thought of that for some reason. Good idea...
Came out great. For the fur eating the mold, how would you combat that. Can you use a harder more stiff heavy duty rubber?
The silicone must be more flexible, softer, and the use of a mold release product will help also.
@@robertarthropthesecond That’s correct. Rubber with a very high modulus of elongation and great tear resistance would help. I use an economy grade of rubber and you could argue that a better quality rubber would last longer. I would hate to put release agent on this mold, especially silicone spray. Just the thought of cleaning that release agent off prior to painting makes me tired.
Great work!
Thanks!
Great! Could you do a live stream to answer questions?
I been been thinking about live streams; I should give one a try.
thank you for another interesting video. have a nice weekend.
Thanks Kate, I appreciate it!
Thank you. Mister Foot looks good.
He’s a fine fellow and I’m sure he’ll be well looked after. Time to send him off to his forever home!
Hi Robert. Considering how much of mold was caught in the casting, I was wondering if you made a decision prior to the casting to not use mold release. Are you not a fan of mold release. Do you think it would have helped in this case?
Thanks so much for the videos. I thought I knew a lot about all this but I seem to learn something new from every one of your videos, so thank you for sharing your expertise!
Most of the hair tear-out was mechanical locking. So a release would have helped a little but not a lot. I’m assuming the sculpture will be painted and I really hate cleaning release agent from a casting destined to be painted. So I very rarely use them.