I recently discovered this channel and I'm thoroughly entertained and learning a lot of good stuff from the best kind of expert - someone who's worked in the trenches and made all the mistakes and learned and came up with better methods. Great job at presenting the info and being entertaining while doing it! Thanks for your time, effort and knowledge.
Great video! Wax is weird. I've used a couple varieties of sculpting wax. For me, I will preheat the mold, pour, then stick it in a box made of a couple layers of foam insulation that is pretty close to the mold size. The goal being to reduce heat loss and slow the cooling time as much as possible. Before I figured that out, I would have wax castings that would shatter if you looked at them the wrong way from the internal stresses.
Can also do multiple pours though lines might be visible on the surface. Or could reheat the mold to consolidate the wax and then do a second pour. I think the wax was poured too hot as well.
Tip: cast wax at the lowest possible temperature, that would reduce cracks. Feel free to put a stick into your mold while wax is liquid and mix it to release bubbles.
Another great video, Robert. It was fun to watch you roto-cast and to see a valiant attempt at wax casting. That wax did look like the problem. Crumbly and weird. Thanks for sharing your wealth of skills with us!
Its fun watching you work double-time to get the clamps on quickly onto the rotational mold !! Thats a challenging mold given the hair rows. And the nature of 3D printing will yield bubbles at the bottom (looks like she didn't print it with supports). Great lessons, great outcome. Thanks!
Truly this is such a wonderful channel and content. I cannot express how amazed I am by the work and dedication of this video. Due to past personal experiences, I was under de impression that all artists kept a tight lock on their techniques and secretes. However, videos as this one proven quite the opposite. For such reasons I am truly grateful and although I may not contribute as much to the creation of this content, I will not forget to due my contribution.
I didn’t invent any of the things I demonstrate on the channel. Just using good practices as recommended by the material suppliers and manufacturers. So I’m not giving away any trade secrets! 😀
Mr Tolone thanks for what you are doing, following your videos I finally managed to do my first mould, will open it tomorrow and try casting it in resin. So exciting! Keep it up!
Robert! Thanks for sharing I was waiting to see how this one turned out and the wax was so fun to see. Spheres have a lot of surface area so I'm guessing the head cooled a lot more and at that break in the neck the cooling must have been stunted by the big warm blob of wax in the shoulder area. What a fun thing to see shake out. The rotational mold stuff is really interesting I think that's something people love to see.
on the wax, I would recommend a slip casting. pour and let it set for a while, them pour out the bulk of the wax. This will give you less shrinkage and cracking. also a high plastic wax (like machinable wax) will give better results for wax casting in this manner.
It's kind of a shame that the person that printed the bust didn't take the time to sand and fill the layer lines. It was interesting to see a new material though
Agreed.... so much money wasted on a mold for a print that should have been cared more for. Hell, for that size it really should have been SLA printed...
Still, why not do a one time proper preparation instead of a bunch of finishes. It's also way better for the mould's lifetime to have a smoother surface finish
The wax cast, firstly, you poured it too hot 🥵, you need to let it cool to around 50-55,… Colour, it’s best to use pigment powder if you are wanting a solid colour, using liquid colour adds too much moisture making the cast soft and brittle. Hope this helps. Great videos, Thanks 🙏🏻
heads up, soy wax is a pretty soft wax, most candle waxes are subject to shrinking which is why rigid molds are generally avoided, for a mold like this I reccomend filtered beeswax or paraffin wax as they tend to be more rigid ^^
Great tips! How do you know if beeswax is filtered? Is it related to color like yellow or white? Also is there an eco friendly wax you recommend besides beeswax because it can get expensive.
@@GH-te6gp filtered beeswax mostly means primarily raw beeswax thats been through at least 2-4 filtrations to remove any dead insect parts or plant matter, nothing to do with the color really, the color is mostly a matter of processing, the yellow wax being less processed and usually cheaper, that being said, sometimes beeswax simply comes out more yellow or white ^^ paraffin wax has a bigger ecological impact than beeswax or other such similarly natural waxes but does tend to be cheaper in bulk for matters of free standing molded candles, if you're simply putting a candle in a pot (jar) then soy wax will work fine. if you want to skip a big part of the price of beeswax though, you can try looking into local sources such as small business beekeepers and bee stores for raw unfiltered beeswax, the raw stuff generally just needs a couple rounds of at home filtering which is fairly easy to do and much cheaper in the long run with the con of having to do some of the work yourself instead ^^
That's possible. I also heard someone say that pouring the wax in layers helps it to cool and shrink evenly, as of course it will shrink. Someone also suggested that the wax he used was probably too hot, and cooled too quickly as well, causing all of the defects seen in the video.
Your videos are awesome my good man. I have just recently got onto molding and casting after being frustrated with not being able to paint my monster clay sculptures. I know, someone is going to tell me that I can which I know but its not there same as having something that's solid and permanent. Thanks so much for the lessons and taking out the guess work. Your amazing
That was pretty interesting! Really enjoyed this video, loved the fast forward on spinning the mold had a good laugh. Now back to the slip shade? I was wondering if we’ll ever see the final episode. I gave up on the clear bulb a while back ... yeah my OCD is kicking in. 😂
Wax is hard to work with. It always shrinks. It's granular if it cools too fast and has cracks if different parts cool at different rates. And it often as not pulls away from the mold while it's shrinking. It might work to build it up in layers from the surface in by hollow-casting, then hollow-casting again when it's cooled just enough to be solid (but still warm enough that melted wax will stick to it). I dunno. Haven't tried it. But wax is hard.
Casting wax: - use a double boiler to melt the wax. Good temperature control. - was SHRINKS. You'll need a feeder to supply material to the mold as it cools. - The neck will be a problem spot, tending to solidify first, This will be a serious problem if the head can't pull away from the mold to stay with the neck. Pre-heating the head part of the mold could make this worse. - I've never seen wax that brittle. But I've never used soy wax.
Interesting experiment. I wonder if the wax casting would shrink and crack if it were filled and poured out repeatedly building up a hollow casting? I've seen candles being made and the wick gets dipped repeatedly to build up thickness of wax. Maybe a casting would work similarly in reverse?
I've never worked with soy wax. But I have worked with paraffin a fair amount, and never seen it nearly that brittle. I was also taught by my mother to always use a double boiler melting wax for temperature control.
Amazing! I have seen people do rotational casting by simply rolling the mold around in their hands. I'm sure there are lots of reasons why this method is inferior to the way you do it, but in your opinion is it viable for someone like myself who isn't hardcore enough to build a giant wooden gimbal? : )
Very nice - but as an absolute beginner it would be very helpful if you named every product you are using in the video as well as posting a list. It would also be wonderful if all videos were painfully well La eked if they are in a sequence. I watched part 1 of one of your series and am looking everywhere for part 2! There are numerous multiparty instruction videos and it is not always easy to tell which part 2 goes with which part ! Thank you!
Looks like this type of candle wax was vastly interior to the type you had the last time. But it was very interesting to see. And kind of strange to see the wax revert to that granular state despite being melted and poured as a solid piece.
love watching , was wondering i have a part on a 2 way radio that no longer available could i send you the part and see if you can copy it thanks for any help
Hi Robert, I have a question. I one saw a video about blenko glass where they were using wood molds and blowing glass to the mold, sort of like blow molds do with plastic. Is there a process of blowing plastic like this that can be done at the home level?
Lovely video. =) Thinking about candles, wouldn't you want the mold to be open on the top of the head, so you can let the wick stick out on the top of the candle? Would that have been an option for this particular mold? (I mean ... of course you have to decide: Nice top for resin casting, of nice spot for the wick for candle casting.)
Normally you would use a wicking needle to push the wick through the rubber mold. I dispensed with that because I didn’t want to put a hole through the mold. Tiffany will decide where she wants to put the wick. Anyway, I’m a casting channel, not a candlemaking channel.
@@RobertTolone After I wrote it, I also thought if it can't just be pushed through the rubber. ^_^' I just wasn't sure if multi-purpose molds are a good idea or not. But I also don't see myself casting candles in the near future. ;)
Seems like there's a range of options for the soy wax - more controlled cooling, pouring in stages, pouring around a core, etc. that'd make it serviceable. Hell, it'd be interesting to see if merely reheating the exterior of the mold enough to melt a significant amount of the outermost wax would be enough.
The results reveal my inexperience with that material. The fun part of my UA-cam channel is that I get to do things that I would never do on a job for a client. With client work I always use materials and processes that I have tested over and over and found to be reliable. On UA-cam I am often playing with materials I’m unfamiliar with. The channel is all about learning. Experimenting (and failing) is a great way to learn!
@@RobertTolone I've only a basic understanding from an engineering mindset and always heard wax can be a major pain, especially as you venture away from paraffin. It'd be pretty cool to see more experiments if you feel interested. I've always wondered if wax could be used (and if it offers any distinct advantages over other methods) in resin casting. Specifically, if the temp of the curing resin could be kept low enough/melting point of the wax made high enough, could you use the lost wax method turned on its head? Rather than melting out the core, you melt away the mold. Probably already a better method out there with far fewer steps, but seems like it could be useful for casts with voids and hollows that'd otherwise trap silicone.
@@custos3249 Mold making and casting is a vast universe and within that world my area of expertise is silicone molds and urethane resin. I don’t know where this channel will take me; it’s an experiment and a journey. Should I wander off into different materials and processes or stick to what I know? The audience is my guide; they vote with their views.
@@RobertTolone As someone who's studied the mind for about a decade and focused on creativity, all I've to say is: always experiment! Granted, I say that since you give clear indication you value the learning experience. I'd certainly enjoy seeing various types of tests to see if the properties of wax could aid or complement resin casting. If you want to get scientific, I'd bet it might be possible to calibrate the waxes contraction rate that, as it cools, it offsets what will be the contraction in the resin. Perhaps it's a longshot, but could make producing functional copies more tenable it if works/could be further developed.
do you have experience/opinions on using syringesto inject silicon moulds for small resin castings. im generally getting good results although sometimes with unexpected bubbles
It just struck me, your most hated movie must be the 1980 movie Flash Gordon. Simply because "flash, savior of the universe". And as a mold maker I assume that just rubs you the wrong way. ^^
I'm no expert, but I would imagine wax needs to cool down very gradually in order to avoid shrinkage, also, having some kind of feeder at the top of the mould to allow the wax to draw down once it does start to set, would be a good thing.
HI, I have been doing molding and casting for a couple years. I love the channel and have learned a great deal. As it happens I am about to launch a non-profit organization that will be creating public art projects honoring the women and men of EMS for their service. These will be based on lifecasts of EMS personnel's hands. I emailed you to discuss possibly collaborating with us. I have no clue how many emails you get so thought I would also leave this comment. If you didn't see the email please let me know and I will send it again. It came from The Caring Hands Project.
Like those new camera angles looking down . Got to be more careful handling that melted wax mate , one slip and it's in your lap. Where's your crock pot ?
The wires are going to attract free energy electrons and screw it up. Only way to stop it is to spin it opposite the spin of the earth. But in Australia with the spin. 👍
Bob, all I can say is, wow. The candle material is definitely not right. There could be a double problem here. The type of wax vs the die. May you should have tested them before using them together. What does the customer say? She is a candle maker, right? Pouring liquid wax into a mold is a normal process for candle making. Maybe your mold material isn’t copacetic with the wax. Maybe there was some resin product left inside the mold which created chemical reaction when you poured in the wax. Maybe, maybe, maybe! No idea!
The mold rubber shouldn’t be a problem. it was most likely a temperature issue. I’ve never used soy wax before so I would have to experiment with it, which I am not going to do because I’m a resin guy, not a candle maker! 😊
15:45 - Beeswax is like "Whoa, soy wax? So much for loyalty, Robert".
I felt terrible and spent quality time with my beeswax reassuring it that I wasn’t abandoning it, just following the client’s orders.
@@RobertTolone When people keep on telling me to mind my beeswax, this must be what they meant!
Resin crafts/ casting crafts are so addictive because it's always a surprise!
Yah but I hate spending time and $ on a flop☹️ 😅
Found the channel about a month back and i'm loving all the videos you make! Great personality and a great teacher!
Thanks Ultradude!
I recently discovered this channel and I'm thoroughly entertained and learning a lot of good stuff from the best kind of expert - someone who's worked in the trenches and made all the mistakes and learned and came up with better methods. Great job at presenting the info and being entertaining while doing it! Thanks for your time, effort and knowledge.
Thanks for watching Joshua!
Great video! Wax is weird. I've used a couple varieties of sculpting wax. For me, I will preheat the mold, pour, then stick it in a box made of a couple layers of foam insulation that is pretty close to the mold size. The goal being to reduce heat loss and slow the cooling time as much as possible. Before I figured that out, I would have wax castings that would shatter if you looked at them the wrong way from the internal stresses.
Can also do multiple pours though lines might be visible on the surface. Or could reheat the mold to consolidate the wax and then do a second pour. I think the wax was poured too hot as well.
Tip: cast wax at the lowest possible temperature, that would reduce cracks. Feel free to put a stick into your mold while wax is liquid and mix it to release bubbles.
hell yeah Rob! never thought id be so stoked for a silicone mold video
Another great video, Robert. It was fun to watch you roto-cast and to see a valiant attempt at wax casting. That wax did look like the problem. Crumbly and weird. Thanks for sharing your wealth of skills with us!
This is a great Channel,what a great temperament for failures you have Robert,best lesson I've learnt!
You can either laugh at or cry about your failures. I would rather laugh and anyway, failure is the best teacher.
Great! Awesome! Nice work and thanks for good demonstration!👏😁🙏
Its fun watching you work double-time to get the clamps on quickly onto the rotational mold !!
Thats a challenging mold given the hair rows. And the nature of 3D printing will yield bubbles at the bottom (looks like she didn't print it with supports).
Great lessons, great outcome. Thanks!
Truly this is such a wonderful channel and content. I cannot express how amazed I am by the work and dedication of this video. Due to past personal experiences, I was under de impression that all artists kept a tight lock on their techniques and secretes. However, videos as this one proven quite the opposite. For such reasons I am truly grateful and although I may not contribute as much to the creation of this content, I will not forget to due my contribution.
I didn’t invent any of the things I demonstrate on the channel. Just using good practices as recommended by the material suppliers and manufacturers. So I’m not giving away any trade secrets! 😀
@@RobertTolone 😁Yes, but you have no idea how encouraging your videos are! Thanks a lot!
Such a beautiful sculpture!
Mr Tolone thanks for what you are doing, following your videos I finally managed to do my first mould, will open it tomorrow and try casting it in resin. So exciting! Keep it up!
Good luck with your project! I hope the castings come out great
Robert! Thanks for sharing I was waiting to see how this one turned out and the wax was so fun to see. Spheres have a lot of surface area so I'm guessing the head cooled a lot more and at that break in the neck the cooling must have been stunted by the big warm blob of wax in the shoulder area. What a fun thing to see shake out. The rotational mold stuff is really interesting I think that's something people love to see.
Simply the Best ❤️
Great video Robert! Never expected to the wax to be so brittle and porous.
With the wax, i would say try it like a roto cast and then fill it slowly
on the wax, I would recommend a slip casting. pour and let it set for a while, them pour out the bulk of the wax. This will give you less shrinkage and cracking. also a high plastic wax (like machinable wax) will give better results for wax casting in this manner.
All true but this is supposed to be a candle mold.
So much fun hanging out in your shop!
Thanks for watching Lee!
It's kind of a shame that the person that printed the bust didn't take the time to sand and fill the layer lines. It was interesting to see a new material though
terrible print.
Agreed.... so much money wasted on a mold for a print that should have been cared more for. Hell, for that size it really should have been SLA printed...
Good thing is its for candle making, a quick torch will smooth it all :)
Still, why not do a one time proper preparation instead of a bunch of finishes. It's also way better for the mould's lifetime to have a smoother surface finish
The wax cast, firstly, you poured it too hot 🥵, you need to let it cool to around 50-55,…
Colour, it’s best to use pigment powder if you are wanting a solid colour, using liquid colour adds too much moisture making the cast soft and brittle. Hope this helps.
Great videos, Thanks 🙏🏻
heads up, soy wax is a pretty soft wax, most candle waxes are subject to shrinking which is why rigid molds are generally avoided, for a mold like this I reccomend filtered beeswax or paraffin wax as they tend to be more rigid ^^
Great tips! How do you know if beeswax is filtered? Is it related to color like yellow or white? Also is there an eco friendly wax you recommend besides beeswax because it can get expensive.
@@GH-te6gp filtered beeswax mostly means primarily raw beeswax thats been through at least 2-4 filtrations to remove any dead insect parts or plant matter, nothing to do with the color really, the color is mostly a matter of processing, the yellow wax being less processed and usually cheaper, that being said, sometimes beeswax simply comes out more yellow or white ^^ paraffin wax has a bigger ecological impact than beeswax or other such similarly natural waxes but does tend to be cheaper in bulk for matters of free standing molded candles, if you're simply putting a candle in a pot (jar) then soy wax will work fine. if you want to skip a big part of the price of beeswax though, you can try looking into local sources such as small business beekeepers and bee stores for raw unfiltered beeswax, the raw stuff generally just needs a couple rounds of at home filtering which is fairly easy to do and much cheaper in the long run with the con of having to do some of the work yourself instead ^^
👷🏽 i found your channel by the Crafsman Steady Crafting... Great content my man
Thanks Tony!
I think with wax it's always best to pour in layers so it cools evenly and won't shrink as much (because it will shrink as you go)
Maybe put some resurvoires so when it shrinks it can pull the wax from there and hopefully doesn't crack
That's possible. I also heard someone say that pouring the wax in layers helps it to cool and shrink evenly, as of course it will shrink. Someone also suggested that the wax he used was probably too hot, and cooled too quickly as well, causing all of the defects seen in the video.
Thanks for sharing all your knowledge, 🤍
👍
Your videos are awesome my good man. I have just recently got onto molding and casting after being frustrated with not being able to paint my monster clay sculptures. I know, someone is going to tell me that I can which I know but its not there same as having something that's solid and permanent. Thanks so much for the lessons and taking out the guess work. Your amazing
Glad you find my videos to be helpful Donnie. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Your soya wax was probably too hot and cooled too quickly. Amazing hollow and solid cast though !! Liked seeing a different technique.
I think that’s right about the wax.
That was pretty interesting! Really enjoyed this video, loved the fast forward on spinning the mold had a good laugh.
Now back to the slip shade? I was wondering if we’ll ever see the final episode. I gave up on the clear bulb a while back ... yeah my OCD is kicking in. 😂
Final video on that series will appear this Friday. It’s been a journey…
Wax is hard to work with. It always shrinks. It's granular if it cools too fast and has cracks if different parts cool at different rates. And it often as not pulls away from the mold while it's shrinking. It might work to build it up in layers from the surface in by hollow-casting, then hollow-casting again when it's cooled just enough to be solid (but still warm enough that melted wax will stick to it). I dunno. Haven't tried it. But wax is hard.
Casting wax:
- use a double boiler to melt the wax. Good temperature control.
- was SHRINKS. You'll need a feeder to supply material to the mold as it cools.
- The neck will be a problem spot, tending to solidify first, This will be a serious problem if the head can't pull away from the mold to stay with the neck. Pre-heating the head part of the mold could make this worse.
- I've never seen wax that brittle. But I've never used soy wax.
Every trade has it’s rules. Wax is not resin. My inexperience showed.
Hi Robert is there any videos where you cut the rototcast product on the bandsaw so we can see the wall thickness. Thanks for another great video
Ah that's a shame about the wax cast, it would've looked lovely with that color, great video either way!
Interesting experiment. I wonder if the wax casting would shrink and crack if it were filled and poured out repeatedly building up a hollow casting? I've seen candles being made and the wick gets dipped repeatedly to build up thickness of wax. Maybe a casting would work similarly in reverse?
have you tried that?
You can add little bee wax while so it don't break
Try paraffin wax. Soy wax is temperamental.
I've never worked with soy wax. But I have worked with paraffin a fair amount, and never seen it nearly that brittle. I was also taught by my mother to always use a double boiler melting wax for temperature control.
Is there an eco friendly wax alternative you recommend if soy wax is bad for this?
@@GH-te6gp I don’t know of any other natural wax that works as well as paraffin.
Soy wax isn't really the best wax to get good casts out of. I would suggest going for a parrafin / stearin mix and topping it up as you go.
But what if i said.... Your speed is just right 👍🤣❤️
😁
Amazing!
I have seen people do rotational casting by simply rolling the mold around in their hands. I'm sure there are lots of reasons why this method is inferior to the way you do it, but in your opinion is it viable for someone like myself who isn't hardcore enough to build a giant wooden gimbal? : )
Sure, it works. We used to do it that way but building a machine is quick and it makes hand rotocasting much easier!
I’m not going to say you’re going to fast or to slow, but what about a handle, like a window handle so you can just sit and spin?
Very nice - but as an absolute beginner it would be very helpful if you named every product you are using in the video as well as posting a list. It would also be wonderful if all videos were painfully well La eked if they are in a sequence. I watched part 1 of one of your series and am looking everywhere for part 2! There are numerous multiparty instruction videos and it is not always easy to tell which part 2 goes with which part ! Thank you!
Here is the prequel to this video: ua-cam.com/video/96kPgjU7LFk/v-deo.htmlsi=T0ptSRxs81iwa_TS
Do you think it maybe to much pigment in the wax?
Looks like this type of candle wax was vastly interior to the type you had the last time. But it was very interesting to see. And kind of strange to see the wax revert to that granular state despite being melted and poured as a solid piece.
Probably a temperature thing. But I’m definitely not a candle maker so I don’t really know.
blame the wax. I made a lot of candles, and love using gel wax or normal wax.
love watching , was wondering i have a part on a 2 way radio that no longer available could i send you the part and see if you can copy it thanks for any help
Send pics to roberttolone@yahoo.com
Hi Robert, I have a question. I one saw a video about blenko glass where they were using wood molds and blowing glass to the mold, sort of like blow molds do with plastic. Is there a process of blowing plastic like this that can be done at the home level?
In theory you could modify a vacuum forming set up for blow molding. I have never seen anyone do that but I suppose it would be possible.
@@RobertTolone Oh dang that is a great idea !!!
time for a cordless
as slow as the resin flows, it seems the rotational and random movements are too fast to actually have the resin flow out evenly to all areas...
Lovely video. =)
Thinking about candles, wouldn't you want the mold to be open on the top of the head, so you can let the wick stick out on the top of the candle?
Would that have been an option for this particular mold? (I mean ... of course you have to decide: Nice top for resin casting, of nice spot for the wick for candle casting.)
Normally you would use a wicking needle to push the wick through the rubber mold. I dispensed with that because I didn’t want to put a hole through the mold. Tiffany will decide where she wants to put the wick. Anyway, I’m a casting channel, not a candlemaking channel.
@@RobertTolone After I wrote it, I also thought if it can't just be pushed through the rubber. ^_^'
I just wasn't sure if multi-purpose molds are a good idea or not. But I also don't see myself casting candles in the near future. ;)
Seems like there's a range of options for the soy wax - more controlled cooling, pouring in stages, pouring around a core, etc. that'd make it serviceable. Hell, it'd be interesting to see if merely reheating the exterior of the mold enough to melt a significant amount of the outermost wax would be enough.
The results reveal my inexperience with that material. The fun part of my UA-cam channel is that I get to do things that I would never do on a job for a client. With client work I always use materials and processes that I have tested over and over and found to be reliable. On UA-cam I am often playing with materials I’m unfamiliar with. The channel is all about learning. Experimenting (and failing) is a great way to learn!
@@RobertTolone I've only a basic understanding from an engineering mindset and always heard wax can be a major pain, especially as you venture away from paraffin.
It'd be pretty cool to see more experiments if you feel interested. I've always wondered if wax could be used (and if it offers any distinct advantages over other methods) in resin casting. Specifically, if the temp of the curing resin could be kept low enough/melting point of the wax made high enough, could you use the lost wax method turned on its head? Rather than melting out the core, you melt away the mold. Probably already a better method out there with far fewer steps, but seems like it could be useful for casts with voids and hollows that'd otherwise trap silicone.
@@custos3249 Mold making and casting is a vast universe and within that world my area of expertise is silicone molds and urethane resin. I don’t know where this channel will take me; it’s an experiment and a journey. Should I wander off into different materials and processes or stick to what I know? The audience is my guide; they vote with their views.
@@RobertTolone As someone who's studied the mind for about a decade and focused on creativity, all I've to say is: always experiment! Granted, I say that since you give clear indication you value the learning experience. I'd certainly enjoy seeing various types of tests to see if the properties of wax could aid or complement resin casting. If you want to get scientific, I'd bet it might be possible to calibrate the waxes contraction rate that, as it cools, it offsets what will be the contraction in the resin. Perhaps it's a longshot, but could make producing functional copies more tenable it if works/could be further developed.
do you have experience/opinions on using syringesto inject silicon moulds for small resin castings. im generally getting good results although sometimes with unexpected bubbles
I never bother with syringe injection. I usually use gravity feed, even with small parts.
It just struck me, your most hated movie must be the 1980 movie Flash Gordon. Simply because "flash, savior of the universe". And as a mold maker I assume that just rubs you the wrong way. ^^
True, I really hate flash.
What wax do you use when covering an object and not wanting it to stick when removing and where can it be purchased.
I always use melted beeswax and it is sold in solid, flake or pellet form in lots of places online.
@@RobertTolone ok I found a yellow block at Michael’s but they said it was for making candles. Is there a difference?
@@christianstorm8854 Should be fine if it is pure beeswax and not a wax blend.
I'm no expert, but I would imagine wax needs to cool down very gradually in order to avoid shrinkage, also, having some kind of feeder at the top of the mould to allow the wax to draw down once it does start to set, would be a good thing.
I used to make candles. Shrinkage happens, I used to just keep back a bit and as it solidified, top up.
How about vibrating the mold to reduce bubbles catching
Here’s my take on that subject:
ua-cam.com/video/aLpDkHt1gY8/v-deo.html
HI, I have been doing molding and casting for a couple years. I love the channel and have learned a great deal. As it happens I am about to launch a non-profit organization that will be creating public art projects honoring the women and men of EMS for their service. These will be based on lifecasts of EMS personnel's hands. I emailed you to discuss possibly collaborating with us. I have no clue how many emails you get so thought I would also leave this comment. If you didn't see the email please let me know and I will send it again. It came from The Caring Hands Project.
Why don't you use filles for such a mass castings? You could save a lot of resin...
How can I hire you for something like this?
My UA-cam channel has become a full-time job and I am only working on channel projects these days.
That cradle just seems like its overcomplicating the process. Can't you do this by hand? I've had decent success just holding it.
@6:08, ahhhh yes, just the way I like my women...wait what!😆😆✌
i thought the artist would have fixed there model, you can see all the layer lines
Like those new camera angles looking down . Got to be more careful handling that melted wax mate , one slip and it's in your lap. Where's your crock pot ?
Some people need to watch and learn instead of trying to tell an expert how to suckered eggs 🥚
Hmmm bee's wax, doesn't shrink as bad. It probably would've done that job better.
I am pouring beeswax into candle molds this week. We shall soon see if I get a decent result…
7:29 - don't you mean HOLDY MOLDY?
If I sculpt a wax toy, can you make a hard copy for me? I'll pay.
Too many drops of lavender.!??
:
Who are the 5 haters?
1:43 - Oh boy, here come the comments. LOL
The wires are going to attract free energy electrons and screw it up. Only way to stop it is to spin it opposite the spin of the earth. But in Australia with the spin. 👍
Silliest comment I could come up with on such short notice. 🤣
maybe too much pigment?
Possibly…
It's wax.. This happens.
I keep thinking you’re in a laundromat 🥴
Bob, all I can say is, wow. The candle material is definitely not right. There could be a double problem here. The type of wax vs the die. May you should have tested them before using them together. What does the customer say? She is a candle maker, right? Pouring liquid wax into a mold is a normal process for candle making. Maybe your mold material isn’t copacetic with the wax. Maybe there was some resin product left inside the mold which created chemical reaction when you poured in the wax. Maybe, maybe, maybe! No idea!
The mold rubber shouldn’t be a problem. it was most likely a temperature issue. I’ve never used soy wax before so I would have to experiment with it, which I am not going to do because I’m a resin guy, not a candle maker! 😊
I don’t know Bob. I think your cutting yourself short. I’m pretty sure that you could do just about anything you wanted to do.