Have you ever tried casting pewter into a silicone mold like this? I know they make special hi-heat silicone, but I've heard of small-batch success from your average silicone.
@@Toystorations Yes, I’ve made prototype parts pouring low-temp metals into my regular silicone molds. But who knows how long your mold will hold up under repeated castings. Try it out and see.
Yessir, you're right - those thin-walled parts are not as ideal for resin casting as they are for injection molding. :) In the past I've gotten around some issues by using two-part squeeze molds, and - for the strength - selected resins like Smooth-On's Task-4. A big sprue is absolutely ideal for situations like this. I tell people that with small or thin-walled items, go BIG on the sprue, to give you that weight above the hole going into the part. Another thing I've done only once (for a smaller figure) is an underpour spout, where you pour into this opening that leads down and curves up into the object, with a vent going up and out above the object. Seeing you crank out lots of parts makes me want to get back rolling with it!
I re-uploaded this video because the audio level was too low in the first upload. That meant losing 500 views and all of your comments! 😭 Sorry about that. Thanks for your patience!
If I had someone like you as my shop teacher in high school, would 100% be in the trade. You speak so clearly that UA-cam autocc has no problem catching on. Thank you.
From your knowledge of the nomenclature, I'll venture that you are a racing fan. As such, I'm sure you recognize that as a Porsche 917K. Anyway, I enjoy your work.
I love your videos! I really enjoy how you introduce us in the world of molding. The two piece model video reminds me of how they make keycaps for mechanical keyboards.
This video is just a testament to your expertise and knowledge of the process. Really cool to watch and see a new technique being used. Thanks for the awesome videos
I couldn’t believe how perfect that came out, you really showed your skill and experience here. Also, if someone sent me that car body, I’d be forced to smash it and send it back with a note “damaged in shipping”
Damn I love your attitude! For me, well, my craft has to produce an excellence in the sound that my work produces. It's not "god" because the players of my instruments can hear it. They don't need faith, they only need ears. And all the work is in the parts that people can't see .. in the innards. I would dearly love to get a cast version of my product so that my players don't have to pay the high prices I need to charge in bespoke work. The cost of proving-out ABS injection models is about 40K in US dollars, no real craftsman has that. So I keep returning to thoughts of short runs of resin molded product using the same high quality filter of my bespoke work. The limitation is that there are 3 voids that must come together with absolute precision. ABS injection is too expensive and wears-out rapidly at the cost of the product. ABS also has extraneous thermal side-effects that destroy the sound most times by the design and the operation. And besides that, I don't want some large corporate entity to get rich on my back. So it has to be short-runs. DO you have a solution for a 3-window cast? Like I am OK with 2-part and glue, but it has to be internally excellent? Any ideas? And hey, My suppliers get paid.
That’s the first time I ever used it. It is a technique that opens up a lot of new possibilities. I’m pretty excited about it and will use it in future videos.
You were just commenting about 5K subscribers not too long ago. A couple days ago you were at 7K now as I watch this one 8.23. Keep doing the good work.
New guy here, Very nice way of molding , will try this method, Wax is better than hot glue, Can see your ways are very smart. Hope my molds work as well as yours. Thanks
Hello Robert, I'm a professional resin caster for about 15 years now. Mostly 1/8th scale hot rod parts. I was also an injection molding process technician for close to 27 years. I've watched a couple of your videos and I've learned a few things. Like you're not a fan of claying parts up, I'm not a fan of cutting parts out of molds. I would have made a two part mold for this car body. I would have done the silicone parting line trick for sure. I would've canted the body front to back at about 10 to 15 degrees to help with flow. On the second half of the pour you could add your wax vents to the highest points as well as a pour spout. Same results without warping the parts. I also make some pretty thin parts (about .030 thick) using a squish mold process. You waste a little resin that way but makes great parts. I'll keep watching for more great ideas.
It's an AFX slot car body,I casting these little terrors is my specialty and making them in non stock colors keeps me in business.Great videos!!!!Silpak is king.
I would’ve never thought of pre molding the parting lines. I’ve got some hand carved fishing lures I need to redo molds of because the parting lines are so bad on my two piece molds. I can’t wait to implement all the awesome knowledge from this channel!
Hi Robert! James here. It is exactly one year from 2 days before Thanksgiving 2020, when you first started on my slot car body mold project for this video - which turned out so phenomenally well !!! So, now that it is 2 days before Thanksgiving 2021, I want to be the first wish you a very Happy Turkey Day for 2021 and my thanks for you and all your great teachings with your videos!
I like how your keeping it old school. This video could be shortened into a 20 second video with editing but it wouldn't be the video it is. So I respect that and thanks for the video
You made that look easy. I have a part that needs to be duplicated, but know I don't have the skills to mold or cast. I'm trying to learn, but just now starting.
Just one tip from a german dental technician, that works all day with wax. You can hit the wax slightly with a blow torch, that will make the surface smooth an will flat out little dents and sharp edges and lines, that are a result of the inicial lay down of the wax. So the flow of resin is not disturbed. You can also use that technique on thinner parts and spruce, the wax will not run away instantly.
Wow, this was the video I needed this week! I'm a new subscriber who has gotten totally hooked on your channel and am excited to soon be a first-time caster! I've been contemplating how I should approach casting a similarly small and thin part with holes, and this video has proved that it can be done. Thank you Mr. Tolone for your excellent videos, I hope to see so many more from you in the future! :)
Maestro, what can I say,- thank you for this lesson and letting us having part on this most interesting HOW TO. Great show once again and congrats to your succesful casting. This is getting even better which every video you are putting up. Whish you all the best for your channel - eagerly awaiting the next Show.
Bob, the MASTER! You’ve done it again. Wow I had my doubts. I was thinking to myself, no way! I should have known better. Never doubt the MASTER! Congrats. Best regards, Richard
i want Robert as my gpa. I hope he stays with us for a long long time. I love how he challanges himelf and keeps his mind sharp by doing so not to mention hes super funny and a great teacher. I could watch him all day. Ive learned so much from him. Thank you Robert!!!
Fascinating videos Robert, so many useful tips every couple mins. I'm sure wax is much more appropriate than hot melt for this box sealing but incase you do need to release some hotmelt easily, isopropyl/isopropanol is like kryptonite to hotmelt and just a dab around the edge works under and around the hotmelt with capillary action. Hard to believe how well it works until you try it. Doesn't gum up, just releases as a lump. Black hotmelt was created to glue pull handles to cars to pull out dents. A couple ml of iso around the edge and it's off it a couple seconds without any elbow grease and no residue left. Probably not as effective with a porous wood surface either, i've only every used it on non porous items but there's nothing like it for hotmelt removal jobs.
Great channel, i have no use for any kind of casting but i like watching. Also saw the 5k special video, looks like youtube ramped up the recommendations it's almost 12k now!
Hi Robert you have some very informative videos, I'am a Locksmith in the UK i have been asked to change the internal operation of a lock for the Emergency Services. then i want to cast it. problem what is the best way to protect the area's where the parts of the locking mechanism lives . any advise would be appreciated as this would be my first casting.....a baptism of fire.
In theory, you could fill the lock mechanism with wax. Then after the mold was made you could remove the wax by melting it off the parts. I would be inclined to test it on a lock that you don’t care if you ruin!
I may be doing some war gaming models soon. I’m not primarily a mold maker. I am a character sculptor for the entertainment industry, mostly doing toy prototypes. I also do large figures, displays, etc. So I don’t do functional objects much.
OH! I’m using this trick in my next project. Very helpful. One question, did you put the silicone in the pressure pot while it cures. So you don’t end up with micro bubbles?
I don’t do that because I have found that it’s not necessary and because often I don’t know if the model that has been given to me is safe under pressure. It may contain voids or porous materials that would not survive pressure casting.
Great video thank you. I'm interested in trying to make a mold so I can make a replacement part for 20+ year old Psion palm top computer, a top screen case. It's quite a low profile part and would need to be rigid not flexible would this approach using a silicone mold and resin be likely to work?
It is often difficult to reproduce injection molded parts with resin casting. One problem is shrinkage. There is a tiny amount of shrinkage when you make a rubber mold and slightly more shrinkage when you cast resin into that mold. So the final part is slightly smaller than the original. The resin cast part may not fit with other existing parts in the device..
Robert. I have a question, and I am sure you may say "because it could cause inhibition" however, at times that you are so close to the top of a mold and you don't have chunkies near you. Why not shove a pencil or 4-5 stirring sticks or a sharpie or or or down the side corner where you know it will not interfere with the cast?
I don’t like to add any “foreign bodies” to my rubber mold. The main reason for that is that they may interfere with the cutting of the mold or may reduce the flexibility of the mold. Another important reason is that it is easy to dislodge the model from the base, so even when I am pushing in rubber chunkies I am extremely careful not to knock the model off it’s funnel base.
Wondering with the outside noise if getting some cheap foam on the walls would help, or even just random blankets you can tack up. Something to help both reduce the echo and keep the outside noise from coming in as loudly that can easily be taken down when you're done with the space. We got some wool batting for that use when I was helping out with a podcast done in an old factory turned offices. Made an amazing difference that you could feel just walking into the room.
Yes, all of techniques would be helpful. So far I have been able to work around the construction work so it hasn’t been much of a problem. The worst day was when they poured the concrete and put the pumper right outside my door! That was incredibly loud so I just gave up and waited until they were done.
i cut up waste silicone rubber into small squares and use that as backfill, it saves money. Old moulds go the same way. I am looking for a way to finely cut waste silicone but, silicone is not cheap
@@RobertTolone 110% will help, you have a great way to describe and your attention to detail is far better than most tutorials on youtube. Im fairly new to casting with silicone molds. Im a hands on maker and everything you explain makes perfect sense with great application ! Thank you dearly for continuing your work for us beginners even though you had to set up your shop in a new location. Cheers buddy!!
Wow! It takes some serious skill to cut that out of the mold. I personally would have done a 2-part mold just because it would be easier for me since I'm not experienced with cutting something out of a mold like you did. I do have a question for you. Have you ever did any insert molding projects with water soluble cores? I have a action figure part that looks like it was molded in 3 parts due to the parting lines and has a peg with a mushroom through hole which was captured using the insert technique. Was just curious if you even molded anything like that haha
Fantastic tips. Robert 💖🌺 Quick and perfect results. No wasting time. Before this i would take the longest way trying to make the clay perfect but once again A better and quick way to proced. Thank you . You are and amazing teacher 🌺
If you mean parts of a mold that are required to cast a single object then 2 in the case of clay-up molds, 1 in the case of cut molds. If you mean how many molds have I had to make to complete a single project then dozens.
No I can’t! I have a couple of viewer projects coming up where I will have to modify the model because in its current state it is completely impossible to cast! The key to successful molding and casting is designing objects that are made to be molded and cast!
I am working on teaching myself to cast bugs in resin for preservation and it is going pretty well. One thing I struggle with in a big way is air bubbles and this happens for a couple reasons, I think. One is that when you mount an insect on a pin to dry it in the right position, you end up making a little hole. As the inside dries out, the body cavity ends up filled with air- which escapes when casting- especially as the resin heats up. The other reason is that pretty much all arthropods are absolutely covered in little hairs that have evolved to do many things including trapping air bubbles against their bodies. As my apartment has some pretty strict rules on noise from things like compressors and I don't think the professor that runs my lab will let me sneak a pressure pot into our budget (blasted responsible bookkeeping), I have taken to brushing on a thin coat of resin first. This hasn't totally eliminated my bubbling issues, probably because I am so impatient and working on a crappy little stand on the balcony- also because their shells have little holes all over and it is really hard to get adequate coverage on all of them, but I thought I would share my resin work experience so far along with a question: Have you ever preserved insects in resin blocks before? If so, do you find that a relaxing/entertaining application of resin media?
i do like your videos, because you are the only one ive found on you tube that takes on tough casting, technical projects like this one, i take on precision engineering tasks to like- robocop & terminator. the sculpting is only half the battle the moulding is just as tough, especially for areas like the pelvis ( which requires 3 mould portions)and the midsection on robo that have cutaways
Love your channel. Binge-watching all your vids. Where might I find that sticky-wax heated application tool? Is it a jewelers tool? Does it have a special name i can search for?
I came across your YT and quite enjoy your vids. I too, have many years in mould/casting and it's fun watching you. I had no doubt, you were going to succeed with the tiny car. You also used pressure chamber which had a much better advantage. The 2 necessary tools in great cast are a degauser and pressure tank. Well done.
Robert, what temperature does your iron use to melt the wax? Also, as a general rule, about how many pieces can you get out of a mold before it degrades? Thanks so much!
It has a temperature control dial so it varies. I set it just hot enough to melt whatever wax I’m using. Waxes melt at low temp, like around 130 F, so the waxer operates at much lower temps than a soldering iron. I get 10-20 castings per mold. But many factors go into mold life, so you have to experiment to see what happens in your use case.
The mold release is essential as you know. The only other thing I can think of is that most tin-based silicones are not compatible with platinum-based silicones. I never let the two systems touch each other.
Here is a link to my materials and suppliers: www.dropbox.com/s/kz6mhmf7v5vpy7l/Material%20and%20Suppliers.pdf?dl=0
Have you ever tried casting pewter into a silicone mold like this? I know they make special hi-heat silicone, but I've heard of small-batch success from your average silicone.
@@Toystorations Yes, I’ve made prototype parts pouring low-temp metals into my regular silicone molds. But who knows how long your mold will hold up under repeated castings. Try it out and see.
Yessir, you're right - those thin-walled parts are not as ideal for resin casting as they are for injection molding. :)
In the past I've gotten around some issues by using two-part squeeze molds, and - for the strength - selected resins like Smooth-On's Task-4.
A big sprue is absolutely ideal for situations like this. I tell people that with small or thin-walled items, go BIG on the sprue, to give you that weight above the hole going into the part.
Another thing I've done only once (for a smaller figure) is an underpour spout, where you pour into this opening that leads down and curves up into the object, with a vent going up and out above the object.
Seeing you crank out lots of parts makes me want to get back rolling with it!
Thanks for the suggestions CrafsMan! As I’m sure my viewers know, you have a fantastic channel!
@@RobertTolone : I sincerely appreciate that! A viewer HIGHLY recommended you, and I'm glad I checked you out. You're the real deal!
I feel like I have arrived on youtube! You are one of my mentors; I STUDY your channel. Thanks for your kind words.
I re-uploaded this video because the audio level was too low in the first upload. That meant losing 500 views and all of your comments! 😭
Sorry about that. Thanks for your patience!
Doing my part and rewatching again... readded my comment
@@joevano Thanks Joe!
Me too
Oh no!
I hope you just made it private or unlisted. That way you still get to keep those views.
If I had someone like you as my shop teacher in high school, would 100% be in the trade. You speak so clearly that UA-cam autocc has no problem catching on. Thank you.
I always tell my parents that the piano teacher I had as a kid killed off any desire I had to be a musician! 😄
right? same here
"Exceed the clients expectations with the absolute least possible effort." - Robert Tolone Such wise words, Sensei Tolone.
I stole it from the racecar driver’s creed, “Win the race at the slowest possible speed.”
"Put the craft where it shows" a simple yet wise teaching
What an excellent philosophy.
Was about to say that. I still work on it. My perfectionism costs me so much time and hinders me more than it helps.
From your knowledge of the nomenclature, I'll venture that you are a racing fan. As such, I'm sure you recognize that as a Porsche 917K.
Anyway, I enjoy your work.
I love your videos! I really enjoy how you introduce us in the world of molding. The two piece model video reminds me of how they make keycaps for mechanical keyboards.
6:24 🤣 "what a dumb story"
I love learning through you. Your teachings are wonderful
This video is just a testament to your expertise and knowledge of the process. Really cool to watch and see a new technique being used. Thanks for the awesome videos
I couldn’t believe how perfect that came out, you really showed your skill and experience here. Also, if someone sent me that car body, I’d be forced to smash it and send it back with a note “damaged in shipping”
I may be using your hammer technique on future projects! 😄😄
🤣🤣🤣 ! That was good!
No problem I’ll send you another!
Damn I love your attitude!
For me, well, my craft has to produce an excellence in the sound that my work produces. It's not "god" because the players of my instruments can hear it. They don't need faith, they only need ears. And all the work is in the parts that people can't see .. in the innards.
I would dearly love to get a cast version of my product so that my players don't have to pay the high prices I need to charge in bespoke work.
The cost of proving-out ABS injection models is about 40K in US dollars, no real craftsman has that. So I keep returning to thoughts of short runs of resin molded product using the same high quality filter of my bespoke work.
The limitation is that there are 3 voids that must come together with absolute precision.
ABS injection is too expensive and wears-out rapidly at the cost of the product. ABS also has extraneous thermal side-effects that destroy the sound most times by the design and the operation.
And besides that, I don't want some large corporate entity to get rich on my back. So it has to be short-runs.
DO you have a solution for a 3-window cast?
Like I am OK with 2-part and glue, but it has to be internally excellent?
Any ideas? And hey, My suppliers get paid.
Send pics of what you make to me at roberttolone@yahoo.com. Thanks!
great job!!! i'm impressed with the skill set.
Another informative and awesome video
The pre-relesed parting areas is a genius idea Robert. Gonna try that next time I have a similar situation.
That’s the first time I ever used it. It is a technique that opens up a lot of new possibilities. I’m pretty excited about it and will use it in future videos.
@@RobertTolone I do not get, why not spraying it completely....
@@hondantv6506 Because I wanted to confine the release agent to the window parts of the mold.
Watched with the low volume, it was tough. But I'll watch again with the higher volume and leave a comment for the algorithm!
Thank! This channel has the absolute best community. Everybody is so kind to me and enthusiastic about the subject.
You were just commenting about 5K subscribers not too long ago. A couple days ago you were at 7K now as I watch this one 8.23. Keep doing the good work.
New guy here, Very nice way of molding , will try this method, Wax is better than hot glue, Can see your ways are very smart. Hope my molds work as well as yours. Thanks
I loved your reaction, you were practically giddy with excitement! Happy Thanksgiving!
I was very relieved, frankly. That one had me worried!
Hello Robert, I'm a professional resin caster for about 15 years now. Mostly 1/8th scale hot rod parts. I was also an injection molding process technician for close to 27 years. I've watched a couple of your videos and I've learned a few things. Like you're not a fan of claying parts up, I'm not a fan of cutting parts out of molds. I would have made a two part mold for this car body. I would have done the silicone parting line trick for sure. I would've canted the body front to back at about 10 to 15 degrees to help with flow. On the second half of the pour you could add your wax vents to the highest points as well as a pour spout. Same results without warping the parts. I also make some pretty thin parts (about .030 thick) using a squish mold process. You waste a little resin that way but makes great parts. I'll keep watching for more great ideas.
It's an AFX slot car body,I casting these little terrors is my specialty and making them in non stock colors keeps me in business.Great videos!!!!Silpak is king.
I watched earlier... glad its back with the volume sorted... and I really appreciate the time and knowledge you're sharing with us, thank you!!!
Thanks for watching twice!
I would’ve never thought of pre molding the parting lines. I’ve got some hand carved fishing lures I need to redo molds of because the parting lines are so bad on my two piece molds. I can’t wait to implement all the awesome knowledge from this channel!
What a great idea! Thank you Robert!
Hi Robert! James here. It is exactly one year from 2 days before Thanksgiving 2020, when you first started on my slot car body mold project for this video - which turned out so phenomenally well !!! So, now that it is 2 days before Thanksgiving 2021, I want to be the first wish you a very Happy Turkey Day for 2021 and my thanks for you and all your great teachings with your videos!
Thanks James! Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family.
Surprisingly it did! But you know your business like no other! 👍🏼 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
The UA-cam algorithm finally got something right. I'm not sure how this got recommended, but I'm glad it did.
Glad you found my channel!
watching twice since I missed the original upload!
I like how your keeping it old school. This video could be shortened into a 20 second video with editing but it wouldn't be the video it is. So I respect that and thanks for the video
Great video! Lots of good lessons. Thank you. Subscribed and rung!
Very entertaining! thanks for making it
Thank you so much for your videos!! Can i send you something I’m have a problem with?
You have inspired me to not bother with this and keep using my $200 resin 3d printer. Does thr same job in half the time and 5% of the work
Just curious. How hard would it be to injection mold house parts... sinks, toilets, entire structures such as walls, shelves window frames, etc.
You made that look easy. I have a part that needs to be duplicated, but know I don't have the skills to mold or cast. I'm trying to learn, but just now starting.
Did you momentarily quote Justin Wilson by his pronunciation of guarantee? Great video!
2 part smoosh mold works better for casting these bodies.
Thanks for share with us. Grate Teacher and Master. Greeting from Patagonia.
Just one tip from a german dental technician, that works all day with wax. You can hit the wax slightly with a blow torch, that will make the surface smooth an will flat out little dents and sharp edges and lines, that are a result of the inicial lay down of the wax. So the flow of resin is not disturbed.
You can also use that technique on thinner parts and spruce, the wax will not run away instantly.
Robert when his client isn't satisfied: 35:09
You need "Catch a Bubble" merch
Actually never occurred to me that the phrase “catch a bubble” could be used in so many situations and have so many different meanings!
Not sure if you still do videos, but I really enjoyed this one. I am looking to start working on molding and your videos offer great insight
Wow, this was the video I needed this week! I'm a new subscriber who has gotten totally hooked on your channel and am excited to soon be a first-time caster! I've been contemplating how I should approach casting a similarly small and thin part with holes, and this video has proved that it can be done. Thank you Mr. Tolone for your excellent videos, I hope to see so many more from you in the future! :)
You walked a mile to get to the pressure pot. The resin was probably hard.😂
Rob!!!! Amen to the claying!!! Love your videos!
Maestro, what can I say,- thank you for this lesson and letting us having part on this most interesting HOW TO. Great show once again and congrats to your succesful casting. This is getting even better which every video you are putting up. Whish you all the best for your channel - eagerly awaiting the next Show.
Someone plese send Robert a 3DBenchy
I love ur utter disdain for clay up molds 🤣 i also just dont get the time spent creating and laying out keys for the two parts. Love this technique!
Thank you.
Could you please teach mold of four legs animals?
10000! Congrats!
🤪🎉🎉🤪 It’s unreal to me!
Do a mould for Digimon vpet case
I love how excited and surprised you were at the end! Beautiful cast, well done!!
Probly be a little easier if they had sent the window that goes in that car body
Bob, the MASTER! You’ve done it again. Wow I had my doubts. I was thinking to myself, no way! I should have known better. Never doubt the MASTER! Congrats.
Best regards, Richard
Always plenty of room for doubt Richard. I am never very far from catastrophe! 😄. Thanks as always for your nice comments. Cheers!
i want Robert as my gpa. I hope he stays with us for a long long time. I love how he challanges himelf and keeps his mind sharp by doing so not to mention hes super funny and a great teacher. I could watch him all day. Ive learned so much from him. Thank you Robert!!!
Its cool! Thanks!!
Fascinating videos Robert, so many useful tips every couple mins.
I'm sure wax is much more appropriate than hot melt for this box sealing but incase you do need to release some hotmelt easily, isopropyl/isopropanol is like kryptonite to hotmelt and just a dab around the edge works under and around the hotmelt with capillary action. Hard to believe how well it works until you try it. Doesn't gum up, just releases as a lump.
Black hotmelt was created to glue pull handles to cars to pull out dents. A couple ml of iso around the edge and it's off it a couple seconds without any elbow grease and no residue left.
Probably not as effective with a porous wood surface either, i've only every used it on non porous items but there's nothing like it for hotmelt removal jobs.
Great tip, it’s worth giving it a try on cardboard and wood.
much appreciated Robert !! big thumbs up !
Deftly done. I liked that very much.
Any tips for fixing warped shells that have long cured?
You could try heating them enough to soften and hold them in the correct shape but I have no idea if it would work in your application.
Great channel, i have no use for any kind of casting but i like watching. Also saw the 5k special video, looks like youtube ramped up the recommendations it's almost 12k now!
Yes, no doubt that UA-cam clip lit the fuse and has begun recommending me much more!
Hi Robert you have some very informative videos, I'am a Locksmith in the UK i have been asked to change the internal operation of a lock for the Emergency Services. then i want to cast it. problem what is the best way to protect the area's where the parts of the locking mechanism lives . any advise would be appreciated as this would be my first casting.....a baptism of fire.
In theory, you could fill the lock mechanism with wax. Then after the mold was made you could remove the wax by melting it off the parts. I would be inclined to test it on a lock that you don’t care if you ruin!
Have you ever thought about casting wargaming models? And while I'm at it, climbing holds and kayaks :D
I may be doing some war gaming models soon. I’m not primarily a mold maker. I am a character sculptor for the entertainment industry, mostly doing toy prototypes. I also do large figures, displays, etc. So I don’t do functional objects much.
OH! I’m using this trick in my next project. Very helpful. One question, did you put the silicone in the pressure pot while it cures. So you don’t end up with micro bubbles?
I don’t do that because I have found that it’s not necessary and because often I don’t know if the model that has been given to me is safe under pressure. It may contain voids or porous materials that would not survive pressure casting.
Great video thank you. I'm interested in trying to make a mold so I can make a replacement part for 20+ year old Psion palm top computer, a top screen case. It's quite a low profile part and would need to be rigid not flexible would this approach using a silicone mold and resin be likely to work?
It is often difficult to reproduce injection molded parts with resin casting. One problem is shrinkage. There is a tiny amount of shrinkage when you make a rubber mold and slightly more shrinkage when you cast resin into that mold. So the final part is slightly smaller than the original. The resin cast part may not fit with other existing parts in the device..
It’s generous of you to say that you and the construction crew are “working around each other.” You’re a good sport!
They are not actually working around me. They haven’t paid the slightest attention to my presence! I shoot video in the quiet moments.
Hello Robert, I really would like to create a mold but I’m running into difficulties. What would be a good way to contact you?
Reach me roberttolone@yahoo.com
Robert. I have a question, and I am sure you may say "because it could cause inhibition" however, at times that you are so close to the top of a mold and you don't have chunkies near you. Why not shove a pencil or 4-5 stirring sticks or a sharpie or or or down the side corner where you know it will not interfere with the cast?
I don’t like to add any “foreign bodies” to my rubber mold. The main reason for that is that they may interfere with the cutting of the mold or may reduce the flexibility of the mold. Another important reason is that it is easy to dislodge the model from the base, so even when I am pushing in rubber chunkies I am extremely careful not to knock the model off it’s funnel base.
Wondering with the outside noise if getting some cheap foam on the walls would help, or even just random blankets you can tack up. Something to help both reduce the echo and keep the outside noise from coming in as loudly that can easily be taken down when you're done with the space. We got some wool batting for that use when I was helping out with a podcast done in an old factory turned offices. Made an amazing difference that you could feel just walking into the room.
Yes, all of techniques would be helpful. So far I have been able to work around the construction work so it hasn’t been much of a problem. The worst day was when they poured the concrete and put the pumper right outside my door! That was incredibly loud so I just gave up and waited until they were done.
Sorry and all, but I love making the back as good as the front. I guess it's just me and God!
It’s your project, do it exactly the way you want it to be. To each his own!
i cut up waste silicone rubber into small squares and use that as backfill, it saves money. Old moulds go the same way. I am looking for a way to finely cut waste silicone but, silicone is not cheap
I use rubber chunkies all the time, if you watch my videos you'll often see me do it. It's a great way to recycle old molds.
Noice mate, cheers Graham
i needed this vid badly cause i want to cast a custom car i made! thank you Robert I always look forward to seeing your work!
Thanks Brian! I hope it helps you with your project
@@RobertTolone 110% will help, you have a great way to describe and your attention to detail is far better than most tutorials on youtube.
Im fairly new to casting with silicone molds. Im a hands on maker and everything you explain makes perfect sense with great application !
Thank you dearly for continuing your work for us beginners even though you had to set up your shop in a new location. Cheers buddy!!
Dude you've gained over 5000 subs in just over a week. Over 10k now - that's insane and you greatly deserve it.
Yeah, it’s been a fun week!
You are doing gods work. If not for people like you people would have to pay games workshop prices.
Glad you find my videos helpful Kevin!
Wow. Great video!!🙂
Wow! It takes some serious skill to cut that out of the mold. I personally would have done a 2-part mold just because it would be easier for me since I'm not experienced with cutting something out of a mold like you did. I do have a question for you.
Have you ever did any insert molding projects with water soluble cores? I have a action figure part that looks like it was molded in 3 parts due to the parting lines and has a peg with a mushroom through hole which was captured using the insert technique. Was just curious if you even molded anything like that haha
I have never tried casting with water-soluble cores. What are those cores made of?
@RobertTolone It's called water soluble wax. Sorry for the very late reply! I didn't get a notification.
Jaw dropping.
Fantastic tips. Robert 💖🌺 Quick and perfect results. No wasting time. Before this i would take the longest way trying to make the clay perfect but once again A better and quick way to proced. Thank you . You are and amazing teacher 🌺
what would be the most number of mould parts ypuve found necessary to use?
If you mean parts of a mold that are required to cast a single object then 2 in the case of clay-up molds, 1 in the case of cut molds. If you mean how many molds have I had to make to complete a single project then dozens.
That was seriously impressive. Thank you. Hope you had a wonderful Thanksgiving.
congratulations, was it a boy or a girl? but seriously you can mould anything
No I can’t! I have a couple of viewer projects coming up where I will have to modify the model because in its current state it is completely impossible to cast! The key to successful molding and casting is designing objects that are made to be molded and cast!
What a triumph!
"What a stupid story!".... I laughed so hard, I had to back the video up to see what I missed.
I was pretty sure I was going to get hate mail over that. People love that story! I’ve heard it all my life.
Great channel. Much love from Poland
Thanks for watching!
I am working on teaching myself to cast bugs in resin for preservation and it is going pretty well. One thing I struggle with in a big way is air bubbles and this happens for a couple reasons, I think. One is that when you mount an insect on a pin to dry it in the right position, you end up making a little hole. As the inside dries out, the body cavity ends up filled with air- which escapes when casting- especially as the resin heats up. The other reason is that pretty much all arthropods are absolutely covered in little hairs that have evolved to do many things including trapping air bubbles against their bodies.
As my apartment has some pretty strict rules on noise from things like compressors and I don't think the professor that runs my lab will let me sneak a pressure pot into our budget (blasted responsible bookkeeping), I have taken to brushing on a thin coat of resin first. This hasn't totally eliminated my bubbling issues, probably because I am so impatient and working on a crappy little stand on the balcony- also because their shells have little holes all over and it is really hard to get adequate coverage on all of them, but I thought I would share my resin work experience so far along with a question:
Have you ever preserved insects in resin blocks before? If so, do you find that a relaxing/entertaining application of resin media?
Nice work!
i do like your videos, because you are the only one ive found on you tube that takes on tough casting, technical projects like this one, i take on precision engineering tasks to like- robocop & terminator. the sculpting is only half the battle the moulding is just as tough, especially for areas like the pelvis ( which requires 3 mould portions)and the midsection on robo that have cutaways
Would it be too different if I tried this with a 1/28 scale?
I don’t thinks so. I am thinking about doing one in 1/24 scale. The mold box will need to be changed to use less rubber than a block mold.
Brilliant!
Because it’s red it makes the car go faster. Right? 🤣
Exactly!
Love your channel. Binge-watching all your vids. Where might I find that sticky-wax heated application tool? Is it a jewelers tool? Does it have a special name i can search for?
It’s a Foredom wax pen. Here is a link to a PDF of my suppliers: www.dropbox.com/s/kz6mhmf7v5vpy7l/Material%20and%20Suppliers.pdf?dl=0
@@RobertTolone Thank you! I love your vids - can't get enough. You have me so inspired and excited!
I came across your YT and quite enjoy your vids. I too, have many years in mould/casting and it's fun watching you. I had no doubt, you were going to succeed with the tiny car. You also used pressure chamber which had a much better advantage. The 2 necessary tools in great cast are a degauser and pressure tank. Well done.
Thanks Richard. what kind of things were you molding and casting?
@@RobertTolone sent you an email.
Love it!
Robert, what temperature does your iron use to melt the wax? Also, as a general rule, about how many pieces can you get out of a mold before it degrades? Thanks so much!
It has a temperature control dial so it varies. I set it just hot enough to melt whatever wax I’m using. Waxes melt at low temp, like around 130 F, so the waxer operates at much lower temps than a soldering iron.
I get 10-20 castings per mold. But many factors go into mold life, so you have to experiment to see what happens in your use case.
@@RobertTolone Thank you so much!!
Wait, is that resin SAFE!?!?!?!?
Safe in what way?
Why do you let the model cure in a pressure vessel?
If there are small bubbles in the resin the pressure will crush them and once the resin is cured the bubbles are locked in forever.
A hint for the parting agent spray for us that aren't as confident is to spray a tiny puddle into a cup or something and then paint it on by brush.
I'm really curious about casting silicone into a silicone mold. Anything noteworthy in particular? Or just douse the mold in mold release?
The mold release is essential as you know. The only other thing I can think of is that most tin-based silicones are not compatible with platinum-based silicones. I never let the two systems touch each other.
Hi Robert, Is there a way to make a two-piece mold with half of a car model?
I don’t know if any way other than to make the entire car model.
@@RobertTolone Ok,Thank you.