Michael, if you ever feel low on video ideas, these "revisited" videos would be well received. You have several videos where you ask questions that you seek out answers to. I'm sure you found most of the answers so follow up videos would be great.
Previous owner soaked blade in coffee and turned it black. Apparently stops the rust and looks great with the carbon fiber. Very informative vid, thanks.
I took my 52100 Military to 10 degrees per side with a 15 degree per side microbevel. I went to Shapton 16000 on the stones and .3 and .05 micron lapping film. The knife just popped hairs as soon as I was touching them. I really like how sharp this steel gets on Alumina stones. I'm going to get mine zero ground to try to maximize the performance of the steel, as it's edge stability should allow it to take very acute angles.
Michael Cheshareck the steel does have a lot of stability, but I would worry about it in use being zero ground. Even with 52100, I think your use will be limited. How do the bevels look at 10 degrees per side?
Michael Christy the bevels at 10 per side don't look too bad, though they are certainly more prominent than the factory ~13 degree per side bevels. I posted a picture on the Facebook group if you look under my name. Since I like to run acute bevels and like high cutting ability I have a lot of regrinds to .005"-.010", and the bevels don't look bad with regrinds like that. I keep some knives factory thickness so I have knives that won't break apart for heavier use. I generally carry two knives, with one being my slicer and one being for heavier work. Frankly, most of what I do is just cutting up boxes and blister packs, so I rarely need a knife at factory thickness to do my cutting. Even with very thin knives you can do a lot of cutting without damage if you know how to avoid side loading the edge significantly. As far as the limited scope with a zero grind, the scope will definitely be more limited. I plan on testing a few different steels zero ground on rope and cardboard, and just sharpening to thicker bevels as needed. I will be using microbevels of 10-15 degrees on all of the knives, so I won't be using a true zero. To me this is a way to see which steels can do dedicated slicer duty at the thinnest geometry, and to see if a steel can outperform a more wear resistant steel due to taking a thinner angle without chipping out. Whether I ever get the time to do this testing as I hope to who knows. A lot of times extreme wear resistance is lost on me because I end up sharpening blades when they still slice phonebook paper a lot of the time. I just don't like cutting with a dull knife, and when I go to sharpen knives I've set aside as being too dull I see them still slicing paper like most people on you tube do when they are demonstrating what they say is a very sharp edge. So I'm not sure I'm getting all of the extra performance many people are out of my extreme carbide steels as most people would just keep using them for weeks longer than I do.
i don't no if they ever made the PM2 in this steel! but had to order one and would be my 1st non stainless steel PM2,looking to have it soon,thanks micheal i enjoy your videos .
My opinel has similar qualities too. I find if it can still cut hairs of of my arm it can be stropped back to HW but I can only do it about two or three times before it won't pop a hair. I'm using the extrafine DMT to finish on stones then move to strops.
Caleb Green Opinel's are great knives. I just brought one back to life and started carrying it again. The blade geometry on them is so good, the damn things will keep cutting when they're dull.
Michael Christy they're definitely little slicers that's for sure. Before I got my mora companion it was the scariest edge straight off the stone ive ever gotten.
It's possible , there is a lot of chatter on the forums about the steel and how spyderco has big plans for it.. so far the blade came scary sharp and it's very thin behind the edge and slicing like a demon... I'm curious about its edge retention capabilities though... thanks for the response btw
Michael Cinguina as I understand it, the edge retention is around S30V, but I haven't tested it or even used it myself, so that's just what I've heard.
Thanks for the video, bought a 52100 military. I am gonna give it a patina, did you put any nailpolish or something on the detent and the aeria where the fosfor bronze hits the metal? Thanks !
You don’t need to mask anywhere. He even said himself he doesn’t mask anything and Latina’s the whole blade. I’ve done the same and had no issues. If you’re using ferric chloride, I’d mask things.
Really enjoy your vids.. they are educational and entertaining... if your looking for some ideas for vids, I just picked up the spydiechef with the Lc200n blade steel.. I would be interested to hear your thoughts on this steel and see you put it through its paces..
Michael Cinguina I'm glad you like the channel. I'm interested in the steel, but I'm not sure I'm going to pick up the model, just because of the money and other things coming up. It is a nice looking model though. I wonder if Spyderco will end up using it on any of their kitchen knives?
u can preorder a GEC Big Jack right now at knivesshipfree or dlttrading... its a Northfield UNXCLD, top shelf. U gonna love it. I carry a #74 and the natural petina with mirror edge looks great. U are a gentleman, u should def have a high end traditional in ur arsonal
👍's up and enjoyed been watching your older videos and they have helped a lot. What brand diamond sprays do you use and what compounds.And where do you buy your supply's.? What do you use on wood strops and what on leather? I know this is a lot like asking you to write a book. Hope all have a blessed day.
I'm glad you enjoy the videos. The diamond spray I use is from Ken Schwartz. When it comes to compounds, I'll use different brands. (usually, it's just what I have on hand that decides it.) The compounds from Wicked Edge are the best quality that I've used. I usually use compounds at 1 micron or above on wood, and sprays below 1 micron on leather (that's how it's been recently anyway).
Sam Pulver the knives I review are ones that I have an interest in owning, carrying and using. I buy them because I want them. ZT and Benchmade make great products, and I'm not taking that away from them, but in most cases they don't peak my interest. If those companies wanted to send me products to use and test, that would be great, but I can't afford to buy their products simply for review. (And given what I do in most reviews, there's no chance of resale value for me. I'm too rough on the knives.)
Nice work. I want one of those militaries now. If you want to try something else interesting try a Jnat enhanced with diamond on a high carbon blade like 52100 :)
like the video. 52100 not for me! Would you consider a sharpen primer on S110v and maybe M390? I tried on the S110 and it is tough to sharpen well. I am now afraid to even touch the m390! First time I have failed to get a good edge.
Billthesheepdog what's a "sharpen primer"? S110V is a difficult steel to work with. M390 is a different story. Take your time with it and be careful and you should be fine.
Michael Christy a primer would be tips on how you get it done. Yes it does seem to be tuff to sharpen. I started at 300grit then 600 then 1500 then translucent arkansas stone. Then strop. usually that gets it with a sharp blade from the box. It was sharp but wouldnt cut hair. The M390 shaved from the box. Thanks I appreciate your counsel.
Michael Christy I was using a KME sharpener with Diamond stones 600 grit/1500 then ark translucent stone. Followed by 4 micron emulsion also my KME on a clean leather on block wood strop. All my other new (s30v/S35vn) blades go mirror and hair popping. The S110v seems to be a more coarse steel maybe? is it something to do with carbides? New steel for me is all Im sure.
Billthesheepdog yes. Huge difference in carbide volume between S30V and S110V, and huge difference in difficulty to sharpen. I would be weary of the Arkansas stone. 4 micron might not be low enough, but if the stones aren't handled right, the compound won't matter.
Hey Michael, I have the 52100 pm2 and I use diarrhea sharp continuous Diamond Stones coarse and fine and then a Spyderco ceramic medium fine and ultra fine and what I've come up with was on the actual Bevel there's still scratch marks in the middle of the Bible but high on the bevel and low on the bevel is polished does that mean I just need to go back to the diamonds and work my way through again?
DarkSim77 the S90V Ti/CF Military has kicked all other Military’s out of my pocket since I got it. The only thing that has really contended is the Police 4. I could speak on the Para in 52100, but it’s colder weather now, so it’s a bad comparison.
hey mike which steel do you "like" more Hap40 or this 52100. Ik two completely different steels but which steel would you choose between the 2 if you had too?? Thanks
Eona56 I would probably choose HAP40. HAP40 will outperform 52100 in a lot of ways except toughness, which doesn't really matter on a folding knife. (Plus, neither steel is weak.). But 52100 will take a much better patina and be easier to sharpen.
never saw anybody sharpen a knife like you I always thought you just use a push. is the back and forth on a stone normal practice? dig the video and thanks for any tips/info.
James Harty in the beginning (long before this UA-cam channel), I took heavy influence from Jim Ankerson's work, which led me to use the angle. As time went on, I found that 30 inclusive is a nice point where the sharpness and cutting efficiency can go very high, but the angle doesn't compromise the strength of the edge. In addition to compromising the bevel strength, going significantly lower then 30 can have a big aesthetic impact on knives (given the geometry commonly used today). 30 inclusive allows me to get a knife (pocket knife) as sharp as I would ever need it to be, while still being fully functional through reasonable and experienced use.
Your the first person I've ever seen cut a free hanging hair. Since that video I've bought diamond sprays, spyderco sharpmaker and made my own strops. I had Japanese water stones I just never achieved that level of sharpness. You could say your the one who influenced me to get spyderco pm2 one in s390 and s110 my favorite model of knife anyways I find your videos very informative. I look forward to watching your next. Thanks for replying l.
I didn't know that.. thank u.. s30v that's good to know.. btw are u on Instagram ..? Just curious.. my page is public (inkededc) check it out if u get a chance and see my growing collection lol
Dean Grondin to answer your question, diamond stones (plates) leave deep scratches that are hard to get out. If I’m going for a mirror polish, I always use water stones.
Michael, if you ever feel low on video ideas, these "revisited" videos would be well received. You have several videos where you ask questions that you seek out answers to. I'm sure you found most of the answers so follow up videos would be great.
Previous owner soaked blade in coffee and turned it black.
Apparently stops the rust and looks great with the carbon fiber.
Very informative vid, thanks.
To me, that was one of your best videos.
I really enjoyed all the detailed information.
A.J. Garrett that means a lot, brother. You were one of the big influences for me to start the channel, so I'm glad you're watching.
I took my 52100 Military to 10 degrees per side with a 15 degree per side microbevel. I went to Shapton 16000 on the stones and .3 and .05 micron lapping film. The knife just popped hairs as soon as I was touching them. I really like how sharp this steel gets on Alumina stones. I'm going to get mine zero ground to try to maximize the performance of the steel, as it's edge stability should allow it to take very acute angles.
Michael Cheshareck the steel does have a lot of stability, but I would worry about it in use being zero ground. Even with 52100, I think your use will be limited.
How do the bevels look at 10 degrees per side?
Michael Christy the bevels at 10 per side don't look too bad, though they are certainly more prominent than the factory ~13 degree per side bevels. I posted a picture on the Facebook group if you look under my name. Since I like to run acute bevels and like high cutting ability I have a lot of regrinds to .005"-.010", and the bevels don't look bad with regrinds like that. I keep some knives factory thickness so I have knives that won't break apart for heavier use. I generally carry two knives, with one being my slicer and one being for heavier work. Frankly, most of what I do is just cutting up boxes and blister packs, so I rarely need a knife at factory thickness to do my cutting. Even with very thin knives you can do a lot of cutting without damage if you know how to avoid side loading the edge significantly.
As far as the limited scope with a zero grind, the scope will definitely be more limited. I plan on testing a few different steels zero ground on rope and cardboard, and just sharpening to thicker bevels as needed. I will be using microbevels of 10-15 degrees on all of the knives, so I won't be using a true zero. To me this is a way to see which steels can do dedicated slicer duty at the thinnest geometry, and to see if a steel can outperform a more wear resistant steel due to taking a thinner angle without chipping out. Whether I ever get the time to do this testing as I hope to who knows. A lot of times extreme wear resistance is lost on me because I end up sharpening blades when they still slice phonebook paper a lot of the time. I just don't like cutting with a dull knife, and when I go to sharpen knives I've set aside as being too dull I see them still slicing paper like most people on you tube do when they are demonstrating what they say is a very sharp edge. So I'm not sure I'm getting all of the extra performance many people are out of my extreme carbide steels as most people would just keep using them for weeks longer than I do.
i don't no if they ever made the PM2 in this steel! but had to order one and would be my 1st non stainless steel PM2,looking to have it soon,thanks micheal i enjoy your videos .
Blane Biondolillo I saw that come out. I considered getting one myself. It's a fun steel.
Glad you like the channel.
great videos my man. seriously nice work
Zebulun Stadler thank you.
My opinel has similar qualities too. I find if it can still cut hairs of of my arm it can be stropped back to HW but I can only do it about two or three times before it won't pop a hair. I'm using the extrafine DMT to finish on stones then move to strops.
Caleb Green Opinel's are great knives. I just brought one back to life and started carrying it again. The blade geometry on them is so good, the damn things will keep cutting when they're dull.
Michael Christy they're definitely little slicers that's for sure. Before I got my mora companion it was the scariest edge straight off the stone ive ever gotten.
Informative video. I just discovered your channel and subscribed. Lots of good info, thanks.
James Miller I'm glad you like the channel.
It's possible , there is a lot of chatter on the forums about the steel and how spyderco has big plans for it.. so far the blade came scary sharp and it's very thin behind the edge and slicing like a demon... I'm curious about its edge retention capabilities though... thanks for the response btw
Michael Cinguina as I understand it, the edge retention is around S30V, but I haven't tested it or even used it myself, so that's just what I've heard.
Wow mike God bless ya......... Your killin it big boy knife video!!!!!!!!
Pg R thanks.
Thanks for the video, bought a 52100 military. I am gonna give it a patina, did you put any nailpolish or something on the detent and the aeria where the fosfor bronze hits the metal? Thanks !
You don’t need to mask anywhere. He even said himself he doesn’t mask anything and Latina’s the whole blade. I’ve done the same and had no issues. If you’re using ferric chloride, I’d mask things.
Nicely done!
kenneths123 thank you.
Really enjoy your vids.. they are educational and entertaining... if your looking for some ideas for vids, I just picked up the spydiechef with the Lc200n blade steel.. I would be interested to hear your thoughts on this steel and see you put it through its paces..
Michael Cinguina I'm glad you like the channel. I'm interested in the steel, but I'm not sure I'm going to pick up the model, just because of the money and other things coming up. It is a nice looking model though. I wonder if Spyderco will end up using it on any of their kitchen knives?
And my experience I found that even though you patina your blades you still have to add some oil to it because of the wear that takes the patina off.
u can preorder a GEC Big Jack right now at knivesshipfree or dlttrading... its a Northfield UNXCLD, top shelf. U gonna love it. I carry a #74 and the natural petina with mirror edge looks great. U are a gentleman, u should def have a high end traditional in ur arsonal
I've already pre-ordered two.
But thanks for the heads up.
Great super video , can you please tell me what’s the name of those. Stones , ? Regards
Franco Rui those are Shaptons.
👍's up and enjoyed been watching your older videos and they have helped a lot. What brand diamond sprays do you use and what compounds.And where do you buy your supply's.? What do you use on wood strops and what on leather? I know this is a lot like asking you to write a book. Hope all have a blessed day.
I'm glad you enjoy the videos. The diamond spray I use is from Ken Schwartz. When it comes to compounds, I'll use different brands. (usually, it's just what I have on hand that decides it.) The compounds from Wicked Edge are the best quality that I've used. I usually use compounds at 1 micron or above on wood, and sprays below 1 micron on leather (that's how it's been recently anyway).
Michael Christy Thank you.
can you do cutting tests of high end zero tolerance knives and benchmades please thank you
Sam Pulver the knives I review are ones that I have an interest in owning, carrying and using. I buy them because I want them. ZT and Benchmade make great products, and I'm not taking that away from them, but in most cases they don't peak my interest. If those companies wanted to send me products to use and test, that would be great, but I can't afford to buy their products simply for review. (And given what I do in most reviews, there's no chance of resale value for me. I'm too rough on the knives.)
I am constantly on the lookout for new products to catch my attention. It's not something I avoid.
Nice patina!! Have you had any rust form over the patina yet? Oh, great job sharpening as well!
Yes, the patina has developed some rust on it.
great patina, what you use for this result?
Nice work. I want one of those militaries now.
If you want to try something else interesting try a Jnat enhanced with diamond on a high carbon blade like 52100 :)
Saddedude thanks. I'm looking forward to experimenting with some natural stones. Should be interesting.
like the video. 52100 not for me! Would you consider a sharpen primer on S110v and maybe M390? I tried on the S110 and it is tough to sharpen well. I am now afraid to even touch the m390! First time I have failed to get a good edge.
Billthesheepdog what's a "sharpen primer"?
S110V is a difficult steel to work with. M390 is a different story. Take your time with it and be careful and you should be fine.
Michael Christy a primer would be tips on how you get it done. Yes it does seem to be tuff to sharpen. I started at 300grit then 600 then 1500 then translucent arkansas stone. Then strop. usually that gets it with a sharp blade from the box. It was sharp but wouldnt cut hair. The M390 shaved from the box. Thanks I appreciate your counsel.
Billthesheepdog I find with the high carbide steels, the UF stone from Spyderco is great for a finishing stone.
What compounds are you using?
Michael Christy I was using a KME sharpener with Diamond stones 600 grit/1500 then ark translucent stone. Followed by 4 micron emulsion also my KME on a clean leather on block wood strop. All my other new (s30v/S35vn) blades go mirror and hair popping. The S110v seems to be a more coarse steel maybe? is it something to do with carbides? New steel for me is all Im sure.
Billthesheepdog yes. Huge difference in carbide volume between S30V and S110V, and huge difference in difficulty to sharpen. I would be weary of the Arkansas stone. 4 micron might not be low enough, but if the stones aren't handled right, the compound won't matter.
Nice, more!
Burak Yilmaz thank you.
Michael Christy btw i am val ;)
Burak Yilmaz oh, ok. Good to know.
he michael, what about convex edges ? I got a sk-5 legend tigershark here by SOG and its dull! -.-
Hey Michael, I have the 52100 pm2 and I use diarrhea sharp continuous Diamond Stones coarse and fine and then a Spyderco ceramic medium fine and ultra fine and what I've come up with was on the actual Bevel there's still scratch marks in the middle of the Bible but high on the bevel and low on the bevel is polished does that mean I just need to go back to the diamonds and work my way through again?
Dean Grondin there’s a lot going on here, lol.
Still having corrosion issues?
DarkSim77 the S90V Ti/CF Military has kicked all other Military’s out of my pocket since I got it. The only thing that has really contended is the Police 4.
I could speak on the Para in 52100, but it’s colder weather now, so it’s a bad comparison.
@@DarkSim77 RIP 💀
hey mike which steel do you "like" more Hap40 or this 52100. Ik two completely different steels but which steel would you choose between the 2 if you had too?? Thanks
Eona56 I would probably choose HAP40. HAP40 will outperform 52100 in a lot of ways except toughness, which doesn't really matter on a folding knife. (Plus, neither steel is weak.).
But 52100 will take a much better patina and be easier to sharpen.
what do you think the best knife steel is?
It depends on the knife and the use. There is no best steel.
never saw anybody sharpen a knife like you I always thought you just use a push. is the back and forth on a stone normal practice? dig the video and thanks for any tips/info.
WHITEHEADTJ71 the back and forth is normal for me. It’s faster.
Glad you liked the video.
Michael Christy thanks man I'll have to give it a try
Wood seems harder than cardboard. Why would military knife be so rust susceptible? Seems odd.
HonoluluTita it’s rust susceptible because the steel is 52100.
what steel do you think holds its edge the best?
It depends on what you're cutting. If it's soft abrasive material, the best steel currently being used in production knives is Maxamet.
Can you make a video about why you use a 30 degree angle almost every video
James Harty in the beginning (long before this UA-cam channel), I took heavy influence from Jim Ankerson's work, which led me to use the angle. As time went on, I found that 30 inclusive is a nice point where the sharpness and cutting efficiency can go very high, but the angle doesn't compromise the strength of the edge. In addition to compromising the bevel strength, going significantly lower then 30 can have a big aesthetic impact on knives (given the geometry commonly used today). 30 inclusive allows me to get a knife (pocket knife) as sharp as I would ever need it to be, while still being fully functional through reasonable and experienced use.
Your the first person I've ever seen cut a free hanging hair. Since that video I've bought diamond sprays, spyderco sharpmaker and made my own strops. I had Japanese water stones I just never achieved that level of sharpness. You could say your the one who influenced me to get spyderco pm2 one in s390 and s110 my favorite model of knife anyways I find your videos very informative. I look forward to watching your next. Thanks for replying l.
James, I'm glad you like the channel and I'm glad the videos have sent you in new directions with sharpening.
Pm2 is out in cf and 52100 just bought it
Sour I just finished mine up today.
Good deal. I'm struggling to figure out if I want a southard before there're gone. Or pick up the 154cm s90v manix in cf.
I'm not a huge fan of the manix really wide in the pocket but 154 s90 in cf is really interested to me
Sour I’m not a big fan of the Manix either, but I’ve heard it was very well done.
yeah ...
I didn't know that.. thank u.. s30v that's good to know.. btw are u on Instagram ..? Just curious.. my page is public (inkededc) check it out if u get a chance and see my growing collection lol
Michael Cinguina no instagram for me. I'm on UA-cam and Facebook. I'm active in several of the knife groups on Facebook.
Omg this thing rusts like it's it's job, I don't even want to look at mine
Mark W yeah, 52100 can be really problematic if you’re not ready for it.
Mark W how has the edge retention been so far?
Holden Caulfield fine but Im low use , it's still factory essentialy with so stroping
Dia-sharp not diarrhea stupid talk text lol
Dean Grondin to answer your question, diamond stones (plates) leave deep scratches that are hard to get out. If I’m going for a mirror polish, I always use water stones.
CPM S110v or GO HOME.
Sans Jeux yeah, I covered the S110V PM2 as well.