THANK YOU!! I'm in Minnesota after a week or so of spring thaw tonight we're dropping with I.pending snow currently 32° with a 22°wind chill, cold and windy. My furnace quit working, yet again, its had about 4 episodes since I purchased my home in November, first time it came out of it on its own, second time I cleaned the flame sensor and it worked for a week and stopped again it wouldn't cycle on its own, called the repair man, I was having condensate draining issues, he found the 1 clogged line I had missed. And charged me $150 to do so, that was around a month and a half ago. Its acted up once or twice, I just went down and made sure it was draining to the trap and it just sort of came around, but I had noticed it was getting more difficult to blow through that line into the inducer fan (water was collecting in there the first few times so I always checked that) so I went to bed and started looking at videos for solutions while under my blanlets house temp at 60° with a small electric heater for the entire thing. I am ever so greatful I found your video!!!! I found an Allen wrench smaller than the opening it was gritty and a hard push to get through then I had a broken drill bit that fit just inside without touching/harming the housing (mine is plastic) and give it a spin by hand it was plugged pretty snuggly with water sediment. As I type this my home is warming up again. The sense of relief is wonderful. THANK YOU a million times over from a 50 yr old single DIY-ER. I always feel like repairman think they see me coming. I'm so glad I can fix the small things. He was trying to tell me my furnace was to big for my house and my inducer fan needed to be replaced soon when he was here, like I said, he unplugged one water drainage line I missed oh and he took a cover off one of the holes in my duct work in my basement claiming my furnace couldnt breathe, at any rate my basement gets more heat. But for that as I said he charged $150....
Thanks for the video! Been having issues the past weeks and last week the furnace stopped igniting. Thermostat wire and Allen key didn't open the port, had to use small drill bit. First tried by hand but one second of drill use and freed up the port. Blew threw, remounted inducer motor, hooked everything back up and furnace ignited right away!! Thanks so much again
That's why I always use a tee inline with the pressure stitch, so you see what the switch sees. It helps catch bad diaphragms, and bleed port problems.
@@HVACRSurvival Can a fitting like the one he cleaned be replaced without replacing the entire blower unit? Mine is corroded through and leaking too much for the switch to register the vacuum.
In many instances I’ve actually had a good enough reading on my manometer to be able to close the pressure switches, but it was a false reading because that orfice was clogged. All 80% furnaces need that orfice cleaned annually. Basic maintenance, if I run a callback for a different technician and it’s an 80% I am using stat wire to clear out that orfice before testing vacuum
Thanks for the video! I had this exact same issue this morning with my Carrier gas furnace, would not "fire up". Saw your video and discovered the same blockage. Working like a champ now after clearing the blockage. Thanks for sharing and saving me some big $$$ this weekend!!!
Yes you should send Amti Diy HVAC a $100.00 check. Most techs would say your draft inducer was bad just from the noise it made. Charge you $900.00 for a new one. Or go all the way and tell you that its gone and you should replace the furnace for $5000.00. Yes to keep the videos coming send him $100.00. That just my opinion, I could be wrong.
I have found this problem quite regular. You can save some time by blowing into the venter first thing. I saw only one comment about the bleed port. I think he is talking about the tiny pin hole in the nipple on the pressure switch. I carry a tiny piece of wire to may sure that is open. That allows a slight air movement in the vacuum hose sending any moisture out through the venter. It saves a lot of pressure switches. I noticed you didn't take a minute to clean the flame proof rod. Saves a call back. I clean all those things as part of a preventative maintenance check.
He saw the debris dirt on burners and didn't clean vacuum it.I would of expected a professional to do it since part of that debris may have caused the clogging!
i know right, im a DIYer and when the installers came to put in the new furnace i was like time to do what i like to caulk all the edges, sealed any optional openings and added a vent breather on the top since its a 80%, i did the same to all my registers and add weather stripping to my return vent to filter better
Insulation hanging rods can come in handy. If the crawl has insulation they are always nearby. They can drill a hole as a spotting rod and unplug ports.
I’ve been having this issue lately. The furnace inducer is getting clogged the technician came twice I think next time imma just use that drill bit and do the same as this gentleman
I've seen that happen before. Made it a part of regular maintenance as it happens about every 2 yrs , maybe longer. Getting service every yr eliminates this problem
Can a fitting like the one you cleaned be replaced without replacing the entire blower unit? Mine is corroded through and leaking too much for the sensor to register the vacuum.
Just to recap, the inducer was blowing more/less properly, but "something" had plugged up the Inducer Pressure Switch hose tube, correct? (How could THAT happen ???? One commenter below suggested a Mud Wasp. .... You see all kinds of things in this business....)
I had the same issue with an induced draft motor. I got a small drill bit and opened the air orifice (drilled it out) a bit. Haven't had an issue with it since ( 2 years ) . EDIT - oh wait .. you did too. :P
I had a sim issue on mine... my motor had a diaphragm on there hence vac one direction but not the other I was always told you never put stuff in there as it can damage the diaphragm...
nextdoor is a good app. You see only the folks in your immediate neighborhood - but not sure about how business gets on board, but it would be a good source of leads for you (not that it seems you need them)!
Can anyone please tell me what the black plastic circular part spinning is called and can that be replaced or does the whole part that was pulled off have to be changed? I accidentally cracked mine and will like to know if I can just replace that part....Thanks.
Never checked gas pressure. Over heated inducer motors commonly sound that harsh, also check the Chimney for ash as the burners were covered in ash. Turbine oil could help bearing as well for a short term repair but that inducer is shot. Also....check the damn filter buddy!!!!! Ever wonder why they include a pressure switch with? How many technicians won't install both even though it's included.
Had a dead bird clogging up my nephew’s once,did not affect the water heater to remove the blower I would have had to remove the gas valve blower directly behind the gas inlet piping.
Im getting the same code 3 on my keeprite which is made by icp.. The furnace is 7 years old and been nothing but problems.. I think the inducer has the same issue because they changed it once after 3 years on warranty..the warranty was only 5 years, they can't seem to figure out whats wrong and keep nickel and dimeing me for for 200 dollar service calls.. Last guy wanted to sell me a mother board.. All they do is blow through lines but none of them checked that inducer port, which I am about to check right now.. My problem is intermittent.. so the furnace will work for a week or 2 then code 3.. Sometimes code 3 after 3 days.. The furnace runs a bit weird too.. Like runs normal for 5 mins, shuts off, then comes right back on for 5 mins.. If it does that too many times it codes 3.. So it works half ass and any moron can reset the panel switch, charge me 200 bucks and say its working., but its a intermittent problem so they all cant figure it out. The AC ran perfect all summer.. So this is definitely something on the heating side of things.
My 26 year old 80% carrier gas furnace runs like the day it was installed except when the attic gets below a certain temperature. Then the inducer motor will start up but stops.
Ted we need to get you a MAGNET for those blower door safety switches. Not good for the old hands if you have arthritis like me at almost 55 lol. I guess 36.5 years of running HVAC calls and still at it my hands are just wearing out lol. Great video and keep up the awesome work man. PEACE \m/\m/...
Common problem with the 80% furnace, especially if in an attic or crawlspace. I carry a safety pin on my keyring just for this reason. That was a tough one.
Typical. I see it all the time. Masquerades as a pressure switch failure. Of course it can't open. Suck on it to start. Also clean the flame sensor. Neglect is common and hard to tell the difference. Start there.
aside from the noise it hard to know what he is pocking on. He call thing to the parts. I blow trough this thing or I removed this thing. Wh can you call it by the part name so we know what the heck you are removing or plugging or unplugging etc. Nice vid nut not a god explanation.
No basements in the south. Builders put the furnace in the attic. Most houses are on concrete slab. In the 30's to the 70's most homes had a craw space. House build 30" to 40" off the ground. Not anymore. The builders want to hide the HVAC system in the attic. Put a 30" box on the supple side of Evaporator coil spider off that to 10 6" flex runs in a 1400 sq ft home. In 2004 the flex had r-4.2 insulated duct. In the south the attic gets up to 140 to 160 deg in the summer. The metal on the furnace and evap coil can burn your hand, need a drain pan to catch the duct sweat. So a coil that is 44 degs has 75 degree air going through return for the first 2 mins it will blow 80 deg air. after 15 mins you might get lucky to get a 14 degree drop across the coil. If you have a older home and the duct is in the craw space the drop across the coil will be 20 degree. But foundation vents are a code in the south. The south has high humidity and temperature. So its 90 degs today and the humidity is 65% or higher. Take a craw under the house and its raining from the duct. The home stores sale vents that open at 70 deg and close at 50 deg. They should have humidity stats on them to open and close. But keeping cold air out of the craw. So most Termite Company's put a craw space fan in the foundation vents they sale them at the home improvement stores that have 2 small fans in the 16 by 8. Come on with temperature. They come back a month later and see that it didn't fix the problem. I was at a lady's house i know from Ball field she had 4 big window size fans. Mold all over the duct, insulation, and floor joist. The humidity that day 55% and 98 deg outdoors. the Heat index is over 100 No young man do not stop my fans? If I did her house might shrink a foot cause here doors to fall off. Not many basements in the south. If the house is remodeled the basement will be made into a TV room or mother in-law suit. Hide that furnace
You could never work for me. what you did with that big drill bit was make the hole 100 times larger then it should have been. now if the inducer motor run at half speed it will still make the pressure switch work anyways. This could lead to a fire or co2 poisoning. The best part if their furnace burns down there house they can show your video as proof of negligence. Their attorney will say great video.
Yeah that motor is going to go out soon. They are junk. Goodman(more junk) GMP95s had that same motor with assembly black plastic and new units had those motors going out a month after installation.This guy is a Trane dealer for a reason.
Have you ever stopped to think... His vids are done in the customers home and is respecting them by not yelling. Notice once he's in his van you can hear him .
I spent $30 on a pressure switch....didnt work. Found your video and unplugged the hole and now my furnace works! THANK YOU!!!
Yes! Thankful for your posting! This very same thing happened to me. Saved me parts and labor on a weekend.
THANK YOU!! I'm in Minnesota after a week or so of spring thaw tonight we're dropping with I.pending snow currently 32° with a 22°wind chill, cold and windy. My furnace quit working, yet again, its had about 4 episodes since I purchased my home in November, first time it came out of it on its own, second time I cleaned the flame sensor and it worked for a week and stopped again it wouldn't cycle on its own, called the repair man, I was having condensate draining issues, he found the 1 clogged line I had missed. And charged me $150 to do so, that was around a month and a half ago. Its acted up once or twice, I just went down and made sure it was draining to the trap and it just sort of came around, but I had noticed it was getting more difficult to blow through that line into the inducer fan (water was collecting in there the first few times so I always checked that) so I went to bed and started looking at videos for solutions while under my blanlets house temp at 60° with a small electric heater for the entire thing. I am ever so greatful I found your video!!!! I found an Allen wrench smaller than the opening it was gritty and a hard push to get through then I had a broken drill bit that fit just inside without touching/harming the housing (mine is plastic) and give it a spin by hand it was plugged pretty snuggly with water sediment. As I type this my home is warming up again. The sense of relief is wonderful. THANK YOU a million times over from a 50 yr old single DIY-ER. I always feel like repairman think they see me coming. I'm so glad I can fix the small things. He was trying to tell me my furnace was to big for my house and my inducer fan needed to be replaced soon when he was here, like I said, he unplugged one water drainage line I missed oh and he took a cover off one of the holes in my duct work in my basement claiming my furnace couldnt breathe, at any rate my basement gets more heat. But for that as I said he charged $150....
I should add, mines a rheem 90 plus. A little different arrangement. Burners above the inducer fan, but still the same "parts"
Thank you for actually letting us hear what noise it makes.
omg this drill bit trick just saved my furnace. The port was blocked and I couldn't blow throw it. The drill bit trick worked. Thank you!!!!!
Thanks for the video! Been having issues the past weeks and last week the furnace stopped igniting. Thermostat wire and Allen key didn't open the port, had to use small drill bit. First tried by hand but one second of drill use and freed up the port. Blew threw, remounted inducer motor, hooked everything back up and furnace ignited right away!! Thanks so much again
Thank you for sharing Sir…..saved me much anguish.
Got my furnace working again!!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video, you just saved $$$. Used a nail, wiggled it in and out and walla the igniter came to life!
FIXED! Great video. Small drill bit worked perfect.
nice to see you can fix stuff so fast. Interesting to see your drive also. thanks for the video
That's why I always use a tee inline with the pressure stitch, so you see what the switch sees. It helps catch bad diaphragms, and bleed port problems.
you ought to do a video detailing this
@@mariomartinez4143 OK, if I get a job needing a pressure check I will👍👍Thanks
Totally agree, this old fart has been using a tee for the last twenty years.
@@HVACRSurvival Can a fitting like the one he cleaned be replaced without replacing the entire blower unit? Mine is corroded through and leaking too much for the switch to register the vacuum.
In many instances I’ve actually had a good enough reading on my manometer to be able to close the pressure switches, but it was a false reading because that orfice was clogged. All 80% furnaces need that orfice cleaned annually. Basic maintenance, if I run a callback for a different technician and it’s an 80% I am using stat wire to clear out that orfice before testing vacuum
my old quattro 100k 80% never had this issue mostly because i live in the desert , just upgraded to a rheem 75k 80% x13
Mine was clogged by a dead bird
Thanks for the video! I had this exact same issue this morning with my Carrier gas furnace, would not "fire up". Saw your video and discovered the same blockage. Working like a champ now after clearing the blockage. Thanks for sharing and saving me some big $$$ this weekend!!!
Glad it helped you, and thank you for watching !!
Yes you should send Amti Diy HVAC a $100.00 check. Most techs would say your draft inducer was bad just from the noise it made. Charge you $900.00 for a new one. Or go all the way and tell you that its gone and you should replace the furnace for $5000.00. Yes to keep the videos coming send him $100.00. That just my opinion, I could be wrong.
Same exact scenario here with my Carrier unit. Drilled it out and it fired right up! Thanks a lot!
Great video..
All that calcification can get like a rock..
Ive never seen one like that either..
Appreciate the video,Ted!
I have found this problem quite regular. You can save some time by blowing into the venter first thing. I saw only one comment about the bleed port. I think he is talking about the tiny pin hole in the nipple on the pressure switch. I carry a tiny piece of wire to may sure that is open. That allows a slight air movement in the vacuum hose sending any moisture out through the venter. It saves a lot of pressure switches. I noticed you didn't take a minute to clean the flame proof rod. Saves a call back. I clean all those things as part of a preventative maintenance check.
To quote a world renowned you tuber Steve Lav ...Houston we have ignition ... good fix ...
nice, thank you for showing the right way to fix and troubleshoot
+70F and a no heat call?! What is the coldest it usually gets to where you live? BTW I live in Minnesota so the coldest iv'e seen is -35F.
California, daytime 70 and nighttime 50 or lower.
A lot of techs would order a new pressure switch, great call, my god a lot of screws to hold that inducer motor in place
i legit replaced a pressure switch on a call like this.,im going back to clean the flue pipe and inducer
The drill bit trick is the best.
He saw the debris dirt on burners and didn't clean vacuum it.I would of expected a professional to do it since part of that debris may have caused the clogging!
Great video
Can’t believe home owner not keeping that furnace clean
i know right, im a DIYer and when the installers came to put in the new furnace i was like time to do what i like to caulk all the edges, sealed any optional openings and added a vent breather on the top since its a 80%, i did the same to all my registers and add weather stripping to my return vent to filter better
Watching again!
Insulation hanging rods can come in handy. If the crawl has insulation they are always nearby. They can drill a hole as a spotting rod and unplug ports.
Was that motor unusually noisy or was it just the camera making it seem so..
Good fix there.. crazy how blocked that was.
I’ve been having this issue lately. The furnace inducer is getting clogged the technician came twice I think next time imma just use that drill bit and do the same as this gentleman
I've seen that happen before. Made it a part of regular maintenance as it happens about every 2 yrs , maybe longer. Getting service every yr eliminates this problem
Very instructive video thank you very much for your teaching.
That was a good video, thx for posting it.
How do these furnaces survive with all that stuff floating around in the air?
Can a fitting like the one you cleaned be replaced without replacing the entire blower unit? Mine is corroded through and leaking too much for the sensor to register the vacuum.
Just to recap, the inducer was blowing more/less properly, but "something" had plugged up the Inducer Pressure Switch hose tube, correct?
(How could THAT happen ???? One commenter below suggested a Mud Wasp.
.... You see all kinds of things in this business....)
I once had an inducer vacuume switch with its pinhole plugged up. One pin later, it was back in operation ever since.
Probably a 90 ell on the inside, facing down, that's why you couldn't get thru. it's a tee now though, good job.
See that a lot on Goodman 80% in attics. I use a little thermostat wire sometimes. It works. But your clog was bad
I had to get out the ole' gundie, but I got mine fixed. Thanks!
Deck shoes on a. Job site. Really.
I had the same issue with an induced draft motor. I got a small drill bit and opened the air orifice (drilled it out) a bit. Haven't had an issue with it since ( 2 years ) . EDIT - oh wait .. you did too. :P
Are the motors replaceable without pulling the inducer housing off?
I have that same furnace idk if its because of its location but when its running its LOUD
That was tough port clean.Good repair
I had a sim issue on mine... my motor had a diaphragm on there hence vac one direction but not the other I was always told you never put stuff in there as it can damage the diaphragm...
nextdoor is a good app. You see only the folks in your immediate neighborhood - but not sure about how business gets on board, but it would be a good source of leads for you (not that it seems you need them)!
How much would one charge for this call???
Can anyone please tell me what the black plastic circular part spinning is called and can that be replaced or does the whole part that was pulled off have to be changed? I accidentally cracked mine and will like to know if I can just replace that part....Thanks.
what if your furnace doesnt have a heat senser but flames go out with blower motor goes on
You aint just whistling Dixie!
Ran across this issue quite a few times this year! Another is on trailer furnaces, spiders get in the burner orifices.
Is this Gresham Park subdivision in simpsonville sc?
70° no heat?
Never checked gas pressure. Over heated inducer motors commonly sound that harsh, also check the Chimney for ash as the burners were covered in ash.
Turbine oil could help bearing as well for a short term repair but that inducer is shot.
Also....check the damn filter buddy!!!!!
Ever wonder why they include a pressure switch with?
How many technicians won't install both even though it's included.
Thank you so much for this video.
Had a dead bird clogging up my nephew’s once,did not affect the water heater to remove the blower I would have had to remove the gas valve blower directly behind the gas inlet piping.
I am sure you know what you are doing but someone watching would not know the sequence of operation. Did the chicken or the egg come first?
Keep your eye on the ball Bobby
Im getting the same code 3 on my keeprite which is made by icp.. The furnace is 7 years old and been nothing but problems.. I think the inducer has the same issue because they changed it once after 3 years on warranty..the warranty was only 5 years, they can't seem to figure out whats wrong and keep nickel and dimeing me for for 200 dollar service calls.. Last guy wanted to sell me a mother board.. All they do is blow through lines but none of them checked that inducer port, which I am about to check right now..
My problem is intermittent.. so the furnace will work for a week or 2 then code 3.. Sometimes code 3 after 3 days.. The furnace runs a bit weird too.. Like runs normal for 5 mins, shuts off, then comes right back on for 5 mins.. If it does that too many times it codes 3.. So it works half ass and any moron can reset the panel switch, charge me 200 bucks and say its working., but its a intermittent problem so they all cant figure it out.
The AC ran perfect all summer.. So this is definitely something on the heating side of things.
My 26 year old 80% carrier gas furnace runs like the day it was installed except when the attic gets below a certain temperature. Then the inducer motor will start up but stops.
Thank you!
My partners furnace was throwing pressure switch error sure enough I check the port it was clogged.
Nice job
Mine was clogged up by a mummified bird. Was inside the inducer motor housing blocking the vacuum hose port.
This is a trade secret. We should not give the shop away.
So many times the port was the culprit!
Thanks! 👍
the inducer doesn't sound very happy, I was expecting was chunks of junk or dead rodent remnants in it :)
Ted we need to get you a MAGNET for those blower door safety switches. Not good for the old hands if you have arthritis like me at almost 55 lol. I guess 36.5 years of running HVAC calls and still at it my hands are just wearing out lol. Great video and keep up the awesome work man. PEACE \m/\m/...
Point well taken by we noobs.
Good suggestion for us noobs.
Is this an actual product, or will any-old magnet do?
You know pipe cleaners are used to clean out orifices it would be great for you to keep some handy in your shirt pocket
Common problem with the 80% furnace, especially if in an attic or crawlspace. I carry a safety pin on my keyring just for this reason. That was a tough one.
How? How can the hole is so tough clogged?
Good job
That was a crusty one per Lav
that fan switch is a vacuum switch. You suck on it while testing the terminals for it closing with a meter.
LoL
pressure switch is what i heard
She's a Poker mama!
That inducer is on borrowed time replace it so you dont have a 2am service call
Typical. I see it all the time. Masquerades as a pressure switch failure. Of course it can't open. Suck on it to start. Also clean the flame sensor. Neglect is common and hard to tell the difference. Start there.
aside from the noise it hard to know what he is pocking on. He call thing to the parts. I blow trough this thing or I removed this thing. Wh can you call it by the part name so we know what the heck you are removing or plugging or unplugging etc. Nice vid nut not a god explanation.
I like watching these vids, but have a tough time hearing you when you're competing with motor noise. Couldn't hear anything you said.
Go to the "word of advice TV" and he will explain clearly.
Really don't need heat at 70 degrees
wish I could hear it better.
Do these homes not have basements?
Basements are not common in many parts of the South, mostly crawl spaces.
No basements in the south. Builders put the furnace in the attic. Most houses are on concrete slab. In the 30's to the 70's most homes had a craw space. House build 30" to 40" off the ground. Not anymore. The builders want to hide the HVAC system in the attic. Put a 30" box on the supple side of Evaporator coil spider off that to 10 6" flex runs in a 1400 sq ft home. In 2004 the flex had r-4.2 insulated duct. In the south the attic gets up to 140 to 160 deg in the summer. The metal on the furnace and evap coil can burn your hand, need a drain pan to catch the duct sweat. So a coil that is 44 degs has 75 degree air going through return for the first 2 mins it will blow 80 deg air. after 15 mins you might get lucky to get a 14 degree drop across the coil. If you have a older home and the duct is in the craw space the drop across the coil will be 20 degree. But foundation vents are a code in the south. The south has high humidity and temperature. So its 90 degs today and the humidity is 65% or higher. Take a craw under the house and its raining from the duct. The home stores sale vents that open at 70 deg and close at 50 deg. They should have humidity stats on them to open and close. But keeping cold air out of the craw. So most Termite Company's put a craw space fan in the foundation vents they sale them at the home improvement stores that have 2 small fans in the 16 by 8. Come on with temperature. They come back a month later and see that it didn't fix the problem. I was at a lady's house i know from Ball field she had 4 big window size fans. Mold all over the duct, insulation, and floor joist. The humidity that day 55% and 98 deg outdoors. the Heat index is over 100 No young man do not stop my fans? If I did her house might shrink a foot cause here doors to fall off. Not many basements in the south. If the house is remodeled the basement will be made into a TV room or mother in-law suit. Hide that furnace
You could never work for me.
what you did with that big drill bit was make the hole 100 times larger then it should have been.
now if the inducer motor run at half speed it will still make the pressure switch work anyways.
This could lead to a fire or co2 poisoning.
The best part if their furnace burns down there house they can show your video as proof of negligence.
Their attorney will say great video.
7:03 100x too big is quite an exaggeration.
That only makes sense if flow rate is what determines the operation of the switch.
That inducer motor is very noisy.
That inducer motor sounds horrible.
Yeah that motor is going to go out soon. They are junk. Goodman(more junk) GMP95s had that same motor with assembly black plastic and new units had those motors going out a month after installation.This guy is a Trane dealer for a reason.
Wow that was a tuff one.
The inducer motor is very noisy.
Noisy!
I would say a mud wasp built a nest in there but that was way to hard..
70 degree weather ????
Are you kidding me?
70 degrees is summer time in new York
Rene Reyes lmao I’m from Chicago , 70 degrees is grilling weather
q-tip
Wow ..the bearings in the inducer motor are howling...needs new motor !!!!sloppy work ..sorry .
what
First
Huh?
First like and comment. Seymour Butts approved. Nice fix, yeah that was stubborn one to clear out. I hope you got a new customer now.
If you're going to do an instructional video why don't you try talking instead of mumbling .
Have you ever stopped to think... His vids are done in the customers home and is respecting them by not yelling. Notice once he's in his van you can hear him .
switch channels if you don;t like it. Nice video and AUDIO
This guy just saved $$$ with his volume, it's not the quality of the audio, it's the value of the content 👌