I just soldered a jumper across the diod ....This brought my voltage back in line now ...When the MMU2 was designed at 8 Mh to operate the buss voltage was fine below 4.6 volt to 4. volt ..Now with the front side buss at 16 Mh. voltage needs to be 4.5 the 5.4 volts to operate...Opps someone dropped the ball there was no reason for the diod..
Thank you Chris for creating such great Content about Prusas MMU :) you helped me a lot sharing and providing your Knowledge about the MMU. Your solution of the 5V issue of the MMU2S Board worked for me. I got the „MCU Error“ every time I tryed to cut a filament with the MMU… (sometimes it was even mid printing…)turns out it has a Voltage Problem after upgrading the Firmware to MMU3 Firmware… after reconnecting the Cables as Shown in this Video it solved my issue with the MMU2S :) Thank you very much!!!
Thanks for a great informative video, My MMU2 is collecting dust because it flashes red/green every time it unloads filament I presume it is the 5V error I'll give the hack a go when I can find the header getting a bit Pxxxd off with prusa at moment shyd away from 3d Printing until I get me kit working again. Keep the good work up Always a pleasure to watch your channell
Hey thanks a lot! I hope this can get you up and going again.
9 місяців тому
23:31 to my experience feeding 6V to the 5V pin on the data cable (with a buck converter from a higher voltage source), I get exactly 5V after the diode and that fixed all my "flashing light" issues caused by not enough voltage. I even fed 9V accidentally and run like that for 1 hour once, nothing burned, the board is quite resilient to over voltage...
I ran into this voltage issue on my MMU2, it had become completely unusable. I did the buck converter hack, but moving the pin is a much better fix. Prusa has never fully owned up to the problem as it is reported on the forums, this was flat out a design flaw. Sadly, I went ahead with the MK4 upgrade, and now the MMU2 sits in a box.
@@ChrisRiley I hope. I have built 2 Voron V2.4 machines, and a Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder, all while waiting for Prusa to sort out MK3.9/MK4/MMU. Now that I finally have the MK3.9/MK4, I am less excited by the day. My only hold out is that ERCF is still pretty fiddly compared to a working MMU2. And I have been unable to get the 3D Chameleon to work with reasonable success either.
I had this same issue. Worked with support for 2 hours and they were denying a free upgrade saying I had never reached out to them in the past which was false. Once I copied and pasted the section from their blog post that stated if you reported issues in the past they would upgrade you for free, that they magically found the several times I reached out to them for MMU issues. It's crazy how poor their support has become.
I have been debating this since the MMU3 came out. It took a solid 2 years of upgrades to get my MMU2 to work decently, not great but decently. First two years was nothing but tears and cursing. For the last couple of years it runs ok but still needs to be kept an eye on it. I would not call the MMU2 a production ready product but it is a research ready product.
Great information. I just got my mmu3 upgrade kit installed and I hope it will improve on the mmu2. A thought for another video .....MMU3 mk3s with a Revo hot end...that would be great to see on the channel.
Here is my question. Is the MMU3 upgrade worth buying? I have upgraded most of the things you already suggested months or years ago. The best thing was a magnet in the selector to pull the ball down, the compression fittings on the bowden tubing that feeds the filament to the MMU2 and the very best is a Tower-Less sensor mechanism for the Extruder. I have tried at least 4 or 5 variations on the tower and they all failed to meet my expectations. The Tower-less sensor upgrade did the trick and looks 100% better than the tower.
@@ChrisRiley I upgraded the Firmware about 6 months ago and it totally bricked my system. I worked with Prusa TS and the forums and never got it to work. I rolled it back to the previous FW. I see the FW has been rev’d since then so maybe I will try again. Prusa knows that they bricked a lot of systems because the Forums exploded with complaints about it.
Might be worth mentioning the “THERMAL ANOMALY” error that can happen after this upgrade. I figured it out and was worth the upgrade. But I reed a lot of frustrated people online that can’t Being able to turn off mmu2 from the LCD alone is pretty awesome. Thanks again Chris for some Really good content 👍
Nice video. I don’t even have a Prusa, but i still watch your videos on machines i don't have because i learn alot. Do you see any good multi-color answers for Creality?
@@GeorgeLeite I had some of the same concerns, but I purchased both an X1 Carbon and a P1P. They have been great printers, especially the X1 Carbon and AMS. I'm trying to get my Prusa XL running, should also be great a multi-filament.
Thank you! The multi material add on's for other machines really haven't impressed me much. As Dave is saying, we are starting to see companies have more options for full systems. I am really hoping I can make my 3D chameleon work soon.
I hope someone can adapt this system for something like the Creality K1. I seriously think that the K1s need some kind of AMS to be able to properly compete against Bambu. Bambu printers seem to be very reliable... but!... that closed source gives me cringe. That is why I would totally prefer an opensource system that can last over time and that could be optimized and modified without issues.
I have had that issue. The recommendation was to plug a USB cable in for power. So that's what I did. It does work. But yeah I'm looking forward to the upgrade, but I won't get it until the MK4 version is out. I bundled them and decided not to split my order. I don't use the mk3 much anyway. The upgrade is more of a.....why not upgrade. lol This does look awesome though. I've lost those screws so many times. The other issue I ran into was a piece of prusament got stuck in the front most PTFE tube. I have no idea why. So I went into my spares bag and used that....but...I'm like.....why are all the other tubes in backwards? The inner bevel should be facing the filament loading side right!?!?!? So I flipped them. All of them. The loading process was 3x easier. Then I double checked the instructions. Prusa tells you to install them backwards. Many people left comments stating that they are in backwards. Someone else mentioned that now the inner bevel is on both sides.
Ah, I didn't even think of the USB cable, good idea. Yeah, good call on waiting to bundle it, I think it's going to make a great pair with the MK4 added speed.
Hi Chris, many thanks for your as always extremely informative video! General Prusa Multi-Color question for you…. NOT considering cost difference, or build volume difference…. Would you prefer the XL style multi-tool heads or a MMU3 style multi-color experience? Again, don’t consider price or build volume. Thanks for your feedback in advance!!
Thanks for watching! Oh, multi tool for sure, the two biggest things being it is so much faster with multiple tools and a whole lot less filament wasted.
They both have pluses and minuses. I have a X1 Carbon and it works, a lot of waste, but it was a reasonable cost. I have a Prusa XL that I'm trying to get working. It should be faster and less waste, but cost over $4000, so that buys a lot of time and filament waste.
Hi Chris, I love your videos. Does your hack fix the selector homing issue? Is it better to use your hack or the PD-Board? What’s the difference? Your hack is much cheaper and I have the connectors at home. Best wishes from Germany.
Thank you! It should help with the homing, yes. The PD board is a better solution, just because the proper components are there to keep everything a little safer with diodes and such. The hack will probably achieve the same results though.
Man after messing and fiddling with the MMU2 for a couple of years, I bought the Bambu P1S with AMS and I can’t believe I put up with the MMU2 for so long. Bambu is atleast a decade ahead of Prusa on the user interface side of things. Prusa has been great for 3d printing for a long time but it looks like he is falling behind Bambu pretty fast.
If I wanted to just buy another one of those brass inserts for the new chimney, what would I buy and how do I hold it into the new printed part? Thanks for the great info!!
nice walkthrough of upgrade, why didn't you use the mod to use the original f-sensor with a tiny m2 allen bolt. That way you don't need the giant chimney? Just wondering if you have seen it and why not using it. In the chimney is there the mk3s+ sensor or is it the older ir sensor?
I honestly think there needs to be a class action against Prusa over the entire MMU debacle ... the product is not fit for purpose from the get go and rather than fix it ... they just sell an upgrade ... for more cost to the user. My MMU3 upgrade package was 80% PTFE filament by weight ... again increasing postage cost. MMU is just a dark dark window into complete Prusa's incompetence.
I bought the MMU1, it never worked. Bought the MMU2, it never worked. Oh, now I'm supposed to buy the MMU3, because it works? Bought a Bambu Lab AMS1 and it works great. If your company takes 5 years and 3 versions to get something working, maybe your in the wrong line of work.
Did the new firmware happen to fix the current the stepper motors get that was causing issues with warping plastic parts? That and the sensor being dependent on the filament not deforming from heat creep of the extruder motor are what kept me from using my mmu2s.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you! I got it out and attached to the other pin like your video. I isolated the cable with electrical tape instead of the shroud. Now my printer works as it should. Thank you so much
The MMU2 has been one of the worst buying decisions I've ever made... horrible to debug when there are issues and even a minor filament hiccup could cause it to clog and block everything. Even when just printing a single filament it was crappy... I can't recommend it to anyone. I'm currently pondering whether to upgrade to the MMU3 and give my mk3/s a new life or if I should just get a X1C instead.
You publish the best MMU content out there. Thanks!
Thank you!
Great run through! Now if only the MMU3 for MK4 were ready… I printed my MMU2 to MMU3 upgrade parts back in JULY!
Hopefully soon!
An interesting note, the latest firmware has the ability to turn off the MMU, you must go into settings and turn it on to see the status!
Thanks for the tip!
I just soldered a jumper across the diod ....This brought my voltage back in line now ...When the MMU2 was designed at 8 Mh to operate the buss voltage was fine below 4.6 volt to 4. volt ..Now with the front side buss at 16 Mh. voltage needs to be 4.5 the 5.4 volts to operate...Opps someone dropped the ball there was no reason for the diod..
The diode is for reverse polarity protection, so not "no reason".
Interesting information, I will have to take a closer look.
Thank you Chris for creating such great Content about Prusas MMU :) you helped me a lot sharing and providing your Knowledge about the MMU. Your solution of the 5V issue of the MMU2S Board worked for me. I got the „MCU Error“ every time I tryed to cut a filament with the MMU… (sometimes it was even mid printing…)turns out it has a Voltage Problem after upgrading the Firmware to MMU3 Firmware… after reconnecting the Cables as Shown in this Video it solved my issue with the MMU2S :) Thank you very much!!!
I'm so glad I could help! Thanks for your comment!
THIS! i was having the exact same issue after the upgrade and this was the exact solution to the problem. Thanks!
Chris, you make a great case to spend the money to get the upgrade kit.
Thanks Dave!
Thanks a ton!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this detailed walkthrough that shows rationale for a lot of improvements. Makes it a no-brainer to upgrade the otherwise dusty machine!
Happy to help!
High quality video, as always. Thank you Chris!
Much appreciated!
Yes , firmware is great and I noticed big improvements. I wonder about the TMC ERROR. Another great video
Thanks Dan!
Thanks for a great informative video, My MMU2 is collecting dust because it flashes red/green every time it unloads filament I presume it is the 5V error I'll give the hack a go when I can find the header getting a bit Pxxxd off with prusa at moment shyd away from 3d Printing until I get me kit working again. Keep the good work up Always a pleasure to watch your channell
Hey thanks a lot! I hope this can get you up and going again.
23:31 to my experience feeding 6V to the 5V pin on the data cable (with a buck converter from a higher voltage source), I get exactly 5V after the diode and that fixed all my "flashing light" issues caused by not enough voltage. I even fed 9V accidentally and run like that for 1 hour once, nothing burned, the board is quite resilient to over voltage...
Good to know, thanks!
Thanks for the update! This is definitely going to be worked on right now, appreciate the time and effort!!
Thanks for watching!
I ran into this voltage issue on my MMU2, it had become completely unusable. I did the buck converter hack, but moving the pin is a much better fix. Prusa has never fully owned up to the problem as it is reported on the forums, this was flat out a design flaw. Sadly, I went ahead with the MK4 upgrade, and now the MMU2 sits in a box.
Hopefully we will have all this sorted out soon.
@@ChrisRiley I hope. I have built 2 Voron V2.4 machines, and a Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder, all while waiting for Prusa to sort out MK3.9/MK4/MMU. Now that I finally have the MK3.9/MK4, I am less excited by the day. My only hold out is that ERCF is still pretty fiddly compared to a working MMU2. And I have been unable to get the 3D Chameleon to work with reasonable success either.
I had this same issue. Worked with support for 2 hours and they were denying a free upgrade saying I had never reached out to them in the past which was false. Once I copied and pasted the section from their blog post that stated if you reported issues in the past they would upgrade you for free, that they magically found the several times I reached out to them for MMU issues. It's crazy how poor their support has become.
great video as always!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love your Rat Rig videos, especially the Idex and speed
Happy Thanksgiving bud.
Same to you! Happy Holidays!
Thanks Chris!!!!!
Thanks for watching!
I have been debating this since the MMU3 came out. It took a solid 2 years of upgrades to get my MMU2 to work decently, not great but decently. First two years was nothing but tears and cursing. For the last couple of years it runs ok but still needs to be kept an eye on it. I would not call the MMU2 a production ready product but it is a research ready product.
I've heard that a few times. Hang in there, Prusa is working on it.
Great information. I just got my mmu3 upgrade kit installed and I hope it will improve on the mmu2. A thought for another video .....MMU3 mk3s with a Revo hot end...that would be great to see on the channel.
Great suggestion!
Here is my question. Is the MMU3 upgrade worth buying? I have upgraded most of the things you already suggested months or years ago. The best thing was a magnet in the selector to pull the ball down, the compression fittings on the bowden tubing that feeds the filament to the MMU2 and the very best is a Tower-Less sensor mechanism for the Extruder. I have tried at least 4 or 5 variations on the tower and they all failed to meet my expectations. The Tower-less sensor upgrade did the trick and looks 100% better than the tower.
If you have a lot of the mods installed like you do, then probably not worth it. The new firmware is where it's at.
@@ChrisRiley I upgraded the Firmware about 6 months ago and it totally bricked my system. I worked with Prusa TS and the forums and never got it to work. I rolled it back to the previous FW. I see the FW has been rev’d since then so maybe I will try again. Prusa knows that they bricked a lot of systems because the Forums exploded with complaints about it.
Nice Chris. Have a great Thanksgiving.
Thanks, happy holidays!
Might be worth mentioning the “THERMAL ANOMALY” error that can happen after this upgrade. I figured it out and was worth the upgrade. But I reed a lot of frustrated people online that can’t Being able to turn off mmu2 from the LCD alone is pretty awesome. Thanks again Chris for some Really good content 👍
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the information. Very usefult.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice video. I don’t even have a Prusa, but i still watch your videos on machines i don't have because i learn alot. Do you see any good multi-color answers for Creality?
A Bambu AMS with a new Bambu printer
@@woodwaker1Those are sweet looking machines. I just can't get passed the closed eco-system.
@@GeorgeLeite I had some of the same concerns, but I purchased both an X1 Carbon and a P1P. They have been great printers, especially the X1 Carbon and AMS. I'm trying to get my Prusa XL running, should also be great a multi-filament.
Thank you! The multi material add on's for other machines really haven't impressed me much. As Dave is saying, we are starting to see companies have more options for full systems. I am really hoping I can make my 3D chameleon work soon.
I hope someone can adapt this system for something like the Creality K1. I seriously think that the K1s need some kind of AMS to be able to properly compete against Bambu.
Bambu printers seem to be very reliable... but!... that closed source gives me cringe. That is why I would totally prefer an opensource system that can last over time and that could be optimized and modified without issues.
I am interested what creality will do to compete with the AMS. I would think they would come up with something.
Nice the best part this work with marlin 🎉
Glad you think so! Thanks for watching
I have had that issue. The recommendation was to plug a USB cable in for power. So that's what I did. It does work. But yeah I'm looking forward to the upgrade, but I won't get it until the MK4 version is out. I bundled them and decided not to split my order. I don't use the mk3 much anyway. The upgrade is more of a.....why not upgrade. lol This does look awesome though. I've lost those screws so many times. The other issue I ran into was a piece of prusament got stuck in the front most PTFE tube. I have no idea why. So I went into my spares bag and used that....but...I'm like.....why are all the other tubes in backwards? The inner bevel should be facing the filament loading side right!?!?!? So I flipped them. All of them. The loading process was 3x easier. Then I double checked the instructions. Prusa tells you to install them backwards. Many people left comments stating that they are in backwards. Someone else mentioned that now the inner bevel is on both sides.
Ah, I didn't even think of the USB cable, good idea. Yeah, good call on waiting to bundle it, I think it's going to make a great pair with the MK4 added speed.
@@ChrisRiley I left it bundled because my mk3 has only been used twice since I got the mk4. lol When I get back to multi-color prints that may change.
The ultimulti printable parts are way better and more beautiful than stock parts of mmu3. Ultimulti is developed by a prusa employee
Thanks for the tip!
Hi Chris, many thanks for your as always extremely informative video! General Prusa Multi-Color question for you…. NOT considering cost difference, or build volume difference…. Would you prefer the XL style multi-tool heads or a MMU3 style multi-color experience? Again, don’t consider price or build volume. Thanks for your feedback in advance!!
Thanks for watching! Oh, multi tool for sure, the two biggest things being it is so much faster with multiple tools and a whole lot less filament wasted.
Thanks for your reply Chris. XL is on order. 😊
They both have pluses and minuses. I have a X1 Carbon and it works, a lot of waste, but it was a reasonable cost. I have a Prusa XL that I'm trying to get working. It should be faster and less waste, but cost over $4000, so that buys a lot of time and filament waste.
Hi Chris, I love your videos.
Does your hack fix the selector homing issue?
Is it better to use your hack or the PD-Board? What’s the difference? Your hack is much cheaper and I have the connectors at home.
Best wishes from Germany.
Thank you! It should help with the homing, yes. The PD board is a better solution, just because the proper components are there to keep everything a little safer with diodes and such. The hack will probably achieve the same results though.
Man after messing and fiddling with the MMU2 for a couple of years, I bought the Bambu P1S with AMS and I can’t believe I put up with the MMU2 for so long. Bambu is atleast a decade ahead of Prusa on the user interface side of things. Prusa has been great for 3d printing for a long time but it looks like he is falling behind Bambu pretty fast.
Thank you for your insight!
If I wanted to just buy another one of those brass inserts for the new chimney, what would I buy and how do I hold it into the new printed part? Thanks for the great info!!
Look for 0006M5 Tappex, they are heated inserts, I use a soldering iron. www.xonelec.com/mpn/tappex/0006m5
nice walkthrough of upgrade, why didn't you use the mod to use the original f-sensor with a tiny m2 allen bolt. That way you don't need the giant chimney? Just wondering if you have seen it and why not using it. In the chimney is there the mk3s+ sensor or is it the older ir sensor?
Thank you! I haven't seen that mod. Yes, this is one from a MK3S+.
"You will cry" You have been warned! 🤣
🙂👍
I honestly think there needs to be a class action against Prusa over the entire MMU debacle ... the product is not fit for purpose from the get go and rather than fix it ... they just sell an upgrade ... for more cost to the user. My MMU3 upgrade package was 80% PTFE filament by weight ... again increasing postage cost. MMU is just a dark dark window into complete Prusa's incompetence.
I hope the MMU3 upgrade improves your experience with Prusa as a whole.
I don‘t use 5v from the Printerboard. I have a stepdown converter 24v->5v conntected to the mmu board for power.
Nice!
I bought the MMU1, it never worked. Bought the MMU2, it never worked. Oh, now I'm supposed to buy the MMU3, because it works? Bought a Bambu Lab AMS1 and it works great. If your company takes 5 years and 3 versions to get something working, maybe your in the wrong line of work.
Thank you for your insight!
Did the new firmware happen to fix the current the stepper motors get that was causing issues with warping plastic parts? That and the sensor being dependent on the filament not deforming from heat creep of the extruder motor are what kept me from using my mmu2s.
Yes, the hold current issues that some of the older firmware had should be resolved.
I don't see the MMU2 Passthrough with the MMU3 parts. I only see the part for the collets. Is the part in a separate spot.
The MMU3 only has the collet holder, the passthrough is a user part.
@@ChrisRiley thanks, is the user part available for the mmu3? I looked and only found it for the mmu2.
Thanks again.
Sorry maybe I misunderstood, but can I use just the fw of mmu3 on a stock mmu2 without replacing all the parts (and buying the kit)?
Yes you can! No upgraded parts needed.
You forgot the bonus maker points for printing all the new parts in blue!!!!
Blue? Make them out of wood and upgrade LOG with an MMU👿
That's a good idea!
NICE way to take 5v...I used a buck converter but this is more convinient
Thanks!
If I buy the mmu3 PD board for the power issue, and use it on my mmu2 will that work?
Yes it will. Make sure you get the right cable.
Does native Marlin support the new firmware, in case you dont have a Prusa, but are running MMU from Marlin? Can you run MMU 3 from log?
Not that I know of...yet! We will see what the maintainer of the Marlin version can do to get these features added.
How do I get the blue wire out of the Molex connector without breaking anytning?
I use an o-ring pick to press down the tab. Something like a thumb tack should work.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you! I got it out and attached to the other pin like your video. I isolated the cable with electrical tape instead of the shroud. Now my printer works as it should. Thank you so much
Could we also use a buck converter to bring in the 5v ?
Yes, you could make that work.
Could you do a video on the mod for 12 colors for the mmu please.
I'll see what I can do!
they should really be putting schottky diode in there instead, to lower the drop
🙂👍
The MMU2 has been one of the worst buying decisions I've ever made... horrible to debug when there are issues and even a minor filament hiccup could cause it to clog and block everything. Even when just printing a single filament it was crappy... I can't recommend it to anyone. I'm currently pondering whether to upgrade to the MMU3 and give my mk3/s a new life or if I should just get a X1C instead.
Thanks for your insight!
I guess bambu labs is forcing prusa to fix the mmu.
They worked on the mmu3 long before the first Bambulab was released.
🙂👍