Yes, well, as long as my back can handle it! 🤣 In a future video of ours, the old man has a message for you and I would guess you have an idea what it could be. 😁
It seems like almost all the trailers (none wood-mizer) I've ever owned have flimsy taillight supports and bad locations...must be a conspiracy with taillight manufactures to sell more replacement lights :>)
I like that you have a plastic container for the blade lubricant. One of my complaints with the Cooks is that the container is metal. If I run any water based lubricant and don't finish it all or dump it out it causes rust in the tank and eventually plugs the hose.
Thanks Paul! The plastic does solve rust issues but many (not me so far) have problems with the durability of the plastic and the fill/output cap/valve. Perhaps a stainless steel tank would be the best of both worlds.
So many good points you made Paul, notice the same thing with the clutch spring, longer rod to be able to cut the 45 deg. cover out, I have a LT-15 that I bought used , but like brand new, really, looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor. Have a few Q's about it, it's the LT-15 GO model, trailer one, In checking some adjustments I found that the log stops and the little nubs as you called them I think you said that, well the log stops are out little over 3/16" farther than the nubs, an further than that the others, 3 are out past the the nubs, only way to fix that is, I can take out the big 2" bushing between the stop and frame and put in on my lathe and turn it down so it will be the same as the others. I was shocked to see this, would be hard to figure out if your log is square or what, when the log sticks out past one an not the others. Also adding 1/4"X 2 X 4" to the inside of the frame where you attached your toe board jack. Made or bought a racing fast acting aluminum jack like NASCAR uses to jack my logs up , much faster than a toe board and movable ,sometimes one pump gets if perfect. $120. at Harbor F place. I also reinforced the back side of the log stop with the same 2"X4" stock and lengthened the bolts, saw most of the fixes that I made on the tube, and spent a week doing the upgrades, didn't want to run into issues with a break down when I got going. Outstanding video, keep them coming. 👍👍👍👍
Thanks! The nubs are set back a bit from the log stops but it sounds like your log stops don't align with each other? When I had to buy a replacement bed section I had some issues with the log stops and the nubs lining up with the original bed sections. They still are not perfect but I got used to it. I don't think I would recommend the toe boards again, I was excited just to have them but they have their limitations and I use them for lifting the log then I put the appropriate size piece of wood under and lower the toe board back down.
@@southernadirondackoutdoors Paul, Thanks so much for the reply, you should look at the jack , it works so good and also use a wedge that fits over the rail, has a serrated top that holds the log great. once you make your cut and rotate the log it's so easy to remove, as for the log stops I'm going to put it in my lathe and turn then down 3/16" so they all line up, not sure why they are so far off. Thanks again for your response
I think every mill has its good and bad qualities about them. There like automobiles, you can buy a plain one or one with all the birds and whistles. Just depends on your budget. But no matter what they still get the job done with equal value or from point A to point B . Good information video.
Good overview of the LT15. Pretty close to my experience with it. There are a lot of little annoying things about mine but mostly just little annoyances. All in all they are great mills and all the benefits outweigh the annoyances. I think it may be getting close to time for a beaver dam update.
Yes, annoyances mostly. I filmed a bit on the spots where the blade cut into various mill parts but that would have doubled the length of the video 😁 Yeah, I have to go down to the beaver dams and explore, we did catch a black bear on a game cam down there.
Very nice.... My problem is with the Kohler engines and service... Still love my mill though... Do you keep the toe board up with every pass you make or just the first cut?
Thank You! The toe board stays up until the log is rolled. If it is rolled 180 degrees then the toe board is lowered all the way, if it is rolled 90 degrees then it is readjusted to recenter the pith.
Good video. Have you settled on any blades that you feel preform better than the next? With my Lt 15 I have 7’,9’ and 10’s. I do a real mixed bag of everything we have in southeast Ohio and will be due to sharpen or buy some new blades soon. I like the double hard 9’ but my experience is limited.
Thanks! We only use the double hard blades and for which degree blades we are at both ends of the spectrum...10 degree and 4 degree. The 4 degrees for wide cuts in hardwood and frozen logs and the 10 degree for pine, spruce and the softer hardwoods. We have tried 7 degree blades but we haven't had good results but we may try again at different feed speeds.
can you do a video on accessing the carb.? mine has been acting up and i have no one anywhere nearby to help. i live remote in Ak. Would be MUCH appreciated if you would.
I actually replaced the carb early last year with a cheapo one from amazon, I think it was less than $50. I don't think I filmed any of it but I'll check. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Looks like I deleted all footage from back then to free up storage space. This is the video I recall watching before doing mine, it isn't exactly the same but pretty close: ua-cam.com/video/GZRMpMbGBjE/v-deo.html
to compensate for the angle in the blade cover, i put a spacer in between the stops and the cant, to move the cant over on the bunks. much easier than trying to relocate the spring. make a 6x6 and an 8x8 and keep them handy. i also have a 4x4, and also use them all as supports for sawing flitches. and i think your turn of the crank was a half inch, and not an inch....
Good idea about the spacer and I have used it, however most times I remember to use it a little too late 🤣 On this model a full rotation of the up/down crank is 2 inches, on some versions of this model it is one inch. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for watching even though it was hard to hear. We've been experimenting with different microphones and we found this one didn't do so great with the wind.
Very good video Paul. sounds like its a keeper.
Yes, well, as long as my back can handle it! 🤣 In a future video of ours, the old man has a message for you and I would guess you have an idea what it could be. 😁
Good, informative video Paul.
Thanks Dave!
Good review! The only other complaint I have is the thin strip of metal holding the taillights bends too easily compared to the rest of the frame...
It seems like almost all the trailers (none wood-mizer) I've ever owned have flimsy taillight supports and bad locations...must be a conspiracy with taillight manufactures to sell more replacement lights :>)
I like that you have a plastic container for the blade lubricant. One of my complaints with the Cooks is that the container is metal. If I run any water based lubricant and don't finish it all or dump it out it causes rust in the tank and eventually plugs the hose.
Thanks Paul! The plastic does solve rust issues but many (not me so far) have problems with the durability of the plastic and the fill/output cap/valve. Perhaps a stainless steel tank would be the best of both worlds.
So many good points you made Paul, notice the same thing with the clutch spring, longer rod to be able to cut the 45 deg. cover out, I have a LT-15 that I bought used , but like brand new, really, looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor. Have a few Q's about it, it's the LT-15 GO model, trailer one, In checking some adjustments I found that the log stops and the little nubs as you called them I think you said that, well the log stops are out little over 3/16" farther than the nubs, an further than that the others, 3 are out past the the nubs, only way to fix that is, I can take out the big 2" bushing between the stop and frame and put in on my lathe and turn it down so it will be the same as the others. I was shocked to see this, would be hard to figure out if your log is square or what, when the log sticks out past one an not the others. Also adding 1/4"X 2 X 4" to the inside of the frame where you attached your toe board jack. Made or bought a racing fast acting aluminum jack like NASCAR uses to jack my logs up , much faster than a toe board and movable ,sometimes one pump gets if perfect. $120. at Harbor F place. I also reinforced the back side of the log stop with the same 2"X4" stock and lengthened the bolts, saw most of the fixes that I made on the tube, and spent a week doing the upgrades, didn't want to run into issues with a break down when I got going. Outstanding video, keep them coming. 👍👍👍👍
Thanks! The nubs are set back a bit from the log stops but it sounds like your log stops don't align with each other? When I had to buy a replacement bed section I had some issues with the log stops and the nubs lining up with the original bed sections. They still are not perfect but I got used to it. I don't think I would recommend the toe boards again, I was excited just to have them but they have their limitations and I use them for lifting the log then I put the appropriate size piece of wood under and lower the toe board back down.
@@southernadirondackoutdoors Paul, Thanks so much for the reply, you should look at the jack , it works so good and also use a wedge that fits over the rail, has a serrated top that holds the log great. once you make your cut and rotate the log it's so easy to remove, as for the log stops I'm going to put it in my lathe and turn then down 3/16" so they all line up, not sure why they are so far off. Thanks again for your response
I think every mill has its good and bad qualities about them. There like automobiles, you can buy a plain one or one with all the birds and whistles. Just depends on your budget. But no matter what they still get the job done with equal value or from point A to point B . Good information video.
Thanks Steve! My chiropractor is very happy I didn't get a mill with all the bells and whistles...just kidding🤣
Good overview of the LT15. Pretty close to my experience with it. There are a lot of little annoying things about mine but mostly just little annoyances. All in all they are great mills and all the benefits outweigh the annoyances.
I think it may be getting close to time for a beaver dam update.
Yes, annoyances mostly. I filmed a bit on the spots where the blade cut into various mill parts but that would have doubled the length of the video 😁 Yeah, I have to go down to the beaver dams and explore, we did catch a black bear on a game cam down there.
Very nice.... My problem is with the Kohler engines and service... Still love my mill though... Do you keep the toe board up with every pass you make or just the first cut?
Thank You! The toe board stays up until the log is rolled. If it is rolled 180 degrees then the toe board is lowered all the way, if it is rolled 90 degrees then it is readjusted to recenter the pith.
Excellent video Paul ! I like the way you adjusted the thickness of the cut ! Are you located near G. Butler operation ?
Thanks Dale! I haven't heard that name you mentioned before so I guess I'll have to say no.
I've been thinking about doing a similar video for my mill. Although I'd like to do some upgrades on the things I don't like about it first.
Be sure to film the upgrades too!
Good video. Have you settled on any blades that you feel preform better than the next? With my Lt 15 I have 7’,9’ and 10’s. I do a real mixed bag of everything we have in southeast Ohio and will be due to sharpen or buy some new blades soon. I like the double hard 9’ but my experience is limited.
Thanks! We only use the double hard blades and for which degree blades we are at both ends of the spectrum...10 degree and 4 degree. The 4 degrees for wide cuts in hardwood and frozen logs and the 10 degree for pine, spruce and the softer hardwoods. We have tried 7 degree blades but we haven't had good results but we may try again at different feed speeds.
You can't turn the toe board around so it pushes the log towards the log stops? Any advice on using a cant hook? 😏 Asking for a friend 😁
can you do a video on accessing the carb.? mine has been acting up and i have no one anywhere nearby to help. i live remote in Ak. Would be MUCH appreciated if you would.
I actually replaced the carb early last year with a cheapo one from amazon, I think it was less than $50. I don't think I filmed any of it but I'll check. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Looks like I deleted all footage from back then to free up storage space. This is the video I recall watching before doing mine, it isn't exactly the same but pretty close: ua-cam.com/video/GZRMpMbGBjE/v-deo.html
to compensate for the angle in the blade cover, i put a spacer in between the stops and the cant, to move the cant over on the bunks. much easier than trying to relocate the spring. make a 6x6 and an 8x8 and keep them handy. i also have a 4x4, and also use them all as supports for sawing flitches. and i think your turn of the crank was a half inch, and not an inch....
Good idea about the spacer and I have used it, however most times I remember to use it a little too late 🤣 On this model a full rotation of the up/down crank is 2 inches, on some versions of this model it is one inch. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Good video sir.
Thanks Donnie!
Hard to hear.
Thanks for watching even though it was hard to hear. We've been experimenting with different microphones and we found this one didn't do so great with the wind.