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Tilta Nucleus-Nano Power Boost
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- Опубліковано 16 сер 2024
- In this video "Tilta Nucleus-Nano Power Boost" we will cover the issue on not having enough torque when using a standard 5v power bank.
I have had the system for a while and one issue I was having, which was a major issue and incurred a great deal of frustration, was the stiffness of my cine lens.
The 5v power bank simply did not have enough volts to provide greater torque. In this video we will discuss how to fix that.... and no its not a V-Mount battery
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-Tripod-
Manfrotto 055 Aluminium 3 Section Tripod: amzn.to/2IGgoTE (UK) | amzn.to/38NURn1 (US)
-Accessories-
Tilta Nucleus-Nano: amzn.to/2OD0QDR (UK) | amzn.to/38SVDze (US)
Kudos on this vid, you just saved me from buying unnecessary V-mount batteries and d-tap cables (would just be an additional heavy weight on my timelapse moco slider cart, and there is enough on there already). Thanks!
Omg.. thank you very much for video.. you save my life (ok, just my money but.. yeah haha)
(Sorry for my english, I am french haha)
No problem at all, glad it has solved a problem :)
Can this cable be run between the focus handle and motor?
Are you referring to the tilita focus handle that has the option to power the nucleus?
If so in theory yes because all the cable does is up the voltage.
I have not tested this though since I don't have that powered handle and still use the current setup, however I have two EF lenses which don't need the cable any more.
I've just taken a look and the hand uses micro USB for the out, this cable is USB A to micro USB, so this particular cable won't physically fit.
The handle itself says it 12v out, which is what this cable is doing so I don't think it's needed.
Let me know if this helps
@@DatrysiadMedia The issue is that only the USB of the handle can power the motor, not the DC output. Apparently it's possible to feed the motor with a Dtap from a mini v mount battery giving it even slightly more power than your solution, but then the motor input is used up and there's no way for the handle to transmit the data. It's quite unfortunate and hopefully improvred in a future version.
@@ezrashanti that actually is a shame because the handle looks really nice.
The other thing I wish that was improved is the LCD screen on the original control. It's a nightmare to use in daylight, which makes it a pain.
I know the DTAP can be used, think I seen that working on Justin Philip's channel. I just didn't want to use a VMount battery but it does provide the extra power that's needed too.
It's never simple is it
@@DatrysiadMedia Nope :/, maybe a little moreso with big bucks options.
Is there anyway to fix the camera moving within the cage once that is fixed?
I've not found a way yet, on my cage there is only one screw thread for the camera which means it is prone to turning from time to time which I need to re adjust and re tighten.
Been meaning to look into how to correct it but not got around to it yet
Some camera systems make this hard. Cameras like the Blackmagic actually attach at top and bottom to the cage, preventing this. Other cameras - you can sometimes find cages that have 'stoppers' on the front to prevent rotation.
Thanks for the advice ! Do you have a link to the dc to usb Converter ?
Hey this is the one I bought from amazon UK, hope it helps.
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0721MX1P5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@DatrysiadMedia Thank you ! And then for the Dc connector you used a dc to micro usb adapter right ?
@@gugughama thats right I completely forgot about that, sorry on my part just checked my amazon orders lol and I bought this to go with it
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01GQFVMBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tJfHFbH0NSQ7B
Its a DC barrel to micro USB.
I've been using this setup for quite a while now and its been working great for me. Note because of the higher voltage you will notice a slight electric noise, if you back the turn the remote back ever so slightly it goes away, think its because there's tension in the motor and its drawing power hence the little noise.
Aside from that use it all the time with no issue
But Tilta said it can be powered safely up to 16v.
At the time I thought it could handle 12v max and was worried the 14v would fry it, lol I know better now. Tbh its been working perfect with the method in the video but I will he getting a black magic so will be getting a smaller v mount and will be running the tilta off the d-tap
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