Sigma 16mm Vs Rokinon Astrophotography
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- Thanks for watching!
Rokinon 12mm: amzn.to/2BFhQPB
Sigma 16mm: amzn.to/2BFrLox
Sony a6500: amzn.to/2FvRsKw
Check me out on instagram! / christopherburress
Some of my other gear: www.amazon.com...
New New intro coming soon lol that didn't last long. But in the meantime follow me on Instagram for some behind the scenes pics! instagram.com/christopherburress/
why even have an intro, just get to the point and you will capture more people's attention
What lens was used for the up close product shots? It looks insanely macro and crisp as hell! Nice!!
With this video it was an old Minolta 28mm macro lens. Didn't expect that did ya!?
Christopher Burress No, That's impressive AF!!
@@TacomaTraveler exactly, all the best UA-cam videos start straight into the content. the more elaborate the intro the more annoyed I get, personally. doesn't matter how cool it looks/sounds.
you can always have your logo reveal happen on the margins, while the video plays.
Climb in exposure until you notice streaking, the formula just doesnt work, or has not worked for me in the past. Also shooting wide open will always result in aberrations as you get closer to the edges of the field. Stepping up the aperture will usually eliminate or at least bring these aberrations to an acceptable level. Also vignetting is another issue your not going to avoid in astrophotography. Capturing and working darks, flats and biased frames into your work flow will help eliminate this, or in your case if your using single exposure with a short exposure of up to 60 seconds use Adobe Camera RAWs lens profile correction tool to remove it. If your serious about astrophotography you should invest in at the very least a small star tracking mount like Ioptrons Sky Tracker Pro, or if your stationary a larger german equatorial mount. I regularly image down to about 50mm and always guide. Guiding at a 50mm and lower will allow you to push your exposure time through roof. 500 seconds, 1000 seconds, depending on your the quality and precision of your mount. Peace Jer
Spot on. I too like to stop down my lens one stop to reduce aberrations. Having a hood is really important as is reduces stray light and dew on the lens.
Thanks for vid! I owe both lenses too and I have two notes from my side: 1) apply lens corrections BEFORE stitiching panoramas with 12/2 - you'll get rid of the banding problem. 2) 12/2 is rendered useless in very cold conditions (below -10 celsius) as the lube freezes and you're unable to operate focusing ring.
Jakub Badełek Which one is sharper ? Which one has better colour redition in low light ( dawn/dusk)for photographing normal subjects ?
@@sauravbasu8805 sigma 16/1.4 outclasses everything. By far this the best APSc lens I've ever worked with. Stellar performance even in very difficult light conditions. 12/2 I much more compact, much wider lens, but that's all when it comes to advantages.
Jakub Badełek Thanks for your reply.
The Rokinon infinity is depicted by the white line and not by the hard stop. The hard stop is a bit past infinity focus and the image will not be as sharp.
your production quality is so amazing!! i love how cinematic all your shots are!
Audio sounds really good man! At lower levels it sounds like it's panned right by like 50%. Turning it up makes it unnoticeable :))
I have this Sigma lens for my A6500 and love it.
This is exactly the comparison I've been looking for, and my questions were answered. Thank you very much!
The rokonin 12mm is definitely a better astrophotography lens. Stars are sharper on the edges and larger view angle. Its a specialty lens while the sigma 16mm is a good all purpose lens and certainly can do astro with limitations.
Good video. I have both lenses and you are spot on with both descriptions. I do a lot of panorama stitching with the Sigma and they usually come out great 👍. Each has its value in the photo toolbox.
With the new Sigma 18-50 zoom is there a still place for the Sigma 16 prime? I use the Sigma 30mm for a walking around lens.
Thanks Chris- just the information that I was looking for! I bought the Sigma 16mm1.4 and I agree, it is a fantastic lens and is much more useful in general. It pairs perfectly with my a6500.
I dont understand why people put the vingetting up so high as a problem. You can put a white vingette to compensate and fix the corners. Lightroom has that even. Not profile correction, a manual vingette. Never had a vingetting "problem" either with the same lens or any other wide angle lens I've tried. It's just seconds of more work for a way cheaper price and wider focal length.
Nice comparison. I own both lenses, and believe your assessment is spot-on.
Always nice to have verification/validation from others on the same subject. Thanks for watching!
Rokinon for overall sharpness, Sigma for no-vignetting.
The stars on the Rokinon appear more detailed, while on the Sigma they seem a little bit fluffy.
Anyway, the test should have be done using the best setting for the particular lens tested: using 1600 ISO on the Sigma lead to an over-exposed image, while on the Rokinon gave a nice image. In these conditions, hard to say which performs better.
I have the Rokinon and it's a great lense. I shoot on an a6000 and I love making large format prints so I would really like to know more about panorama stitching. Can you make a video?
So, Sigma 16mm, f/1.4 is sharp for stars. I bought used and stars are like coma or mostly triangular shape. That triangle (or arrow) pointing upper left corner, not toward center. Does my lens is broken then? Thanks.
I have a friend who has a backyard telescope. He has a computerized motor which calculates the movement of the Earth and moves the telescope to compensate for the Earth's movement. Thus his pictures taken through the telescope appear with no motion.
+Jacob Roberts I want to get a motor for my camera for some killer milky way shots. That should show up on this channel eventually.
So basically it's an equatorial mount.
I’ve got to figure out how to make my Ronin S do that...
Has DJI released SDK for the gimbal?
You mention having a problem with Sigma focus ring being too sensitive when in manual mode. It is possible to circumvent this: Disable AF w/ shutter and Pre-AF, and (optionally) assign AF/MF Ctrl Toggle to a dedicated button. Now you can first focus in manual mode and then switch to auto. Because you have disabled all the options that actually activate autofocus without pressing a Custom Key assigned to some focus function, the focus stays fixed even if you move the focus ring or press the shutter.
+Tomi Päiväniemi that's possible. But I'm not sure what focus setting won't try to refocus when taking a photo but will also not allow the focus ring to change it. Hmm.
Try out the settings I described. I just tested it, it works. If you disable AF w/ shutter it doesn't refocus in auto mode when taking a photo.
Your the greatest film/photo youtuber I’ve ever watched
+TRiddle 55 well thanks! 👍
Your calc for the 500 rule is incorrect. You have to multiply the focal length by the crop factor and then divide into 500. The 12mm is equivalent to an 18mm ff, 16 to 24, etc.
Not only that; the 500mm rule was for lower resolution film and sensor. For a 24 Mpix APS-C sensor I would advise the "200-rule", without the need for equivalency calculation. Just divide 200 by 12mm and get around 15 sec exposure. For this Sigma 16mm that would be around 12 sec.
I think you divide by 300 on APS-C lenses for astro...?
That sounds about right, might be a touch on the high side if I’m just going by memory. It’s been a long time though.
I will go with rokinon because of it's focal length
How does those 2 lenses compare to the Zeiss Touit 12mm 2.8? I know the Touit is higher fstop than the 2 reviewed.
I have both, and thinking of get rid of the rokinon, and can't get myself to do it. :)
Tape the focus ring.
Chris thanks for the review! I too use the Rokinon on an a6300 and found it to work great. I also do do prime focus on a 1250mm telescope and to handle the vignetting, I do take dark, light, and bias frames. That process is okay if using stacking astro software (registax, autostakkert, etc) that automates the process of adding dark/light/bias frame data, however I would love to see a tutorial on quick and dirty method of applying a flat frame to a single picture in photoshop (bonus for bias/dark). Think that's something you could do?
+Robert Welchman I'll look into it and see what I can come up with. A couple people have asked for software tutorials, I might look into doing some of those.
soon the Laowa 9mm f2.8 is coming. I'd be interested in that for astrophotography.
+Gabor Lehocky wow that's wide. Is it a Fisheye?
no. I don't think so. It was never mentioned that it will be a fisheye. I read it on sonyalpharumors.
+Gabor Lehocky I'll need to look into it!
Great review.👍🏼 I would like to see how either of those lens fair against the Samyang 8mm f2.8 umc II.
Subscribed today. 👍🏻 I have both of these lenses but I’m ugly and suck at doing video so I’m not doing a comparison. Lol. However, I cannot wait to try them both. I didn’t know about the double tap on the lcd. Thanks for the tip. 👍🏻
Great video! I currently own the Rokinon 12mm 2.0 for my A6000, this was my 1st lens I purchased last year for my Iceland northern lights. And performed well. I am looking at buying another landscape lens for another trip this year and considering the Sigma.. I want a auto focus and even maybe a lens with stabilization... thoughts looking at keeping it under $600. Thanks
I liked the new intro, your getting a bit more of a professional look, I just thought that it was all a bit quick.
Or mabey I'm just getting old, apparently everything goes faster.
+John Gilchrist thanks! I'm trying to make my channel look better in general. I just hate sitting through long intros so I made mine short lol.
Christopher Burress. Fair enough it's still good, you are definitely making your channel better.
For me it was a bit quick too. "Or mabey I'm just getting old, apparently everything goes faster." That got a nice smile out of me.
What if you use the anti-vignetting setting for the Rokinon (instead of a profile correction) on lightroom ? It should eliminate the problem completely...
Thanks for your great review
Chould you test Tokina 11-20 f2.8 canon lense on sony aps-c camera please?
Thanks
The rokinon is usually $250 to $270 on Amazon, though. I just bought one
+wallball5 well after double checking, you're not wrong. But the prices I saw are still there. I wonder why there are so many different prices.
Great video, was wondering if you think there's any need to have both lenses? I currently have the Sigma 16mm. Thank you for your time.
+C Dot s if you have the 16mm i would say sit tight. I could maybe argue for selling the rokinon for the sigma. But I don't think that anyone needs both.
Nice intro - looks good and is short and snappy.
Love this Chris! This looks so nice!!! Watched this many times. But - I'm also thrilled about the Tokina 11-16mm (wider) BUT 2.8! How would this compare to the 1.4 for astro and low light? Do you know anything bout the Tokina? I'm gonna do like low light night video scenes, think the movie Drive. Cheers!
I had the tokina for my nikon back in the day. And its really a spectacular lens, one of my favorite wide angles for sure. Ultra sharp and pretty fast. It doesn't adapt to Sony well though because most ultra wide angles suffer from some weird phenomenon when adapted. Makes the outside 40% of the images super soft.
Christopher Burress Hey man thx for sucha fast reply!! Faster than the Sigma AF speed ;) Oh cool! I was thinking of going with either a Canon m50 or a 77D. Same issue there or would it be cool on a Canon? Would need a nice addition to the KIT lense with a f3.5 so...looking for a small one with a nice size!
what about rokinon vs the Sony 16mm 2.8?
Intro is dope and sound is excellent.
Your video quality is superb! Thank you for another very informative video!
06:15 - I do not care so much about the vignetting: just cut a bit out of the photo - it will still give me a bit more wideangle than the Sigma.
And for video is a great effect (the ultrawideangle), whereas in video you anyway apply a little vignetting to the footage.
So, basically, if you shoot a whole video with the Rokinon, then skip the vignetting effect in post :).
Why apply the crop factor to the calculation if the lens is not cropped? These are apsc lenses so they are not cropped: 12mm is 12mm not 18 as if using a fullframe lens
You don't understand how it works. Lens "mm" is an actual physical dimension, it can't change based on sensor size. There is no such thing as a "cropped" lens, the sensor does the cropping, the lens just has a different projection size coverage.
@@ChristopherBurress So what's the difference between an APSC lens and FULLFRAME lens if you have to apply the crop factor?
I thought that the number showed on the lens (since it's APSC lens) has already the cropfactor in it, infact if you use an APSC lens on a fullframe body you see a wider angle and you have to crop the sensor with the builtin function to avoid the hardcore vignetting you would see.
I don't understand what i'm missing.
A 35mm full frame lens and 35mm apsc lens see the same field of view when both used on a FF body. The difference is how much sensor coverage the lens has with the image projected out the back of the lens. Lens manufacturers want to keep that projection size as small as possible because it's cheaper, you don't need to have the extra glass required to make a larger high quality image that you aren't going to use because it doesn't even hit the sensor. Lenses are just mini projectors.
Imagine you were shining a real projector towards a wall, and you were 6 feet from the wall. You would be able to fit everything onto the screen because the length from the wall to the projector was so small (focal length) if you moved the projector back to 12 feet your image on the screen would appear bigger, zoomed in, a larger distance to the wall =larger focal length. Now change out your screen with a smaller one, your projected image didn't change sizes but the picture that hits the screen appears more zoomed in because you effectively cropped it with the smaller screen. This is your crop factor.
Thank you for the detailed response!!! ❤️
Yeah I got it.
I simply thought that manufactures applied the crop factor on declared focal lengths when creating an APSC lens.
Hello Christo, thanks for such a comprehensive comparison between the two, I couldn't a better video than yours even after doing a good amount of search. Now, would you mind if I ask you something. Would you recommend an AF-lens or a Manual Lens meant primarily for the astrophotography. From your video I could make out that a manual lens if better but kindly reply with the reason for the selection as well. :) Thanks a ton.
Nice comparison, thanks for that. ( and for making me rewind to 8:21 )
if you use the manual profiles on lightroom to identify the lens you will solve the problem of vigneting
+Visit Ant it helps, but stuff gets weird with astro shots at different exposures.
Thank you very much, this review just gave what I need to know as I like to shoot the milkyway way AND do interview videos.
8:22 "that's what she said" 😂💀 great touch of personality dude
Your channel is awesome, nobody else goes into this much detail. Planning to buy the Sigma 16mm.
Can you please do a review on the 7artisans 7.5mm f/2.8 lens. how good will it be for astro? or the more expensive laowa 7.5mm f/2.0 worth the money?
I'll need to look into those lenses, I don't have them right now. I'm glad you are enjoying the content!
I'm having trouble figuring out how to focus manually to infinity for Astro with a6000 and Sigma 16mm f1.4
It can focus past infinity to you can have to go all the way to the end and bring it back just a touch.
@@ChristopherBurress thanks so much! Greetings from Ireland :)
Do you use a picture profile?
bit of a stupid question (im new to photography), but would it make sense to do night pano on a ~35mm 1.7 Meike Lens for astrophotography and and photo-stitch with less vignetting?( i don't know if that lens has any bad vignetting issues cuz i dont own it yet) I know the wider Rokinon would allow more wiggle room for exposure times, but as a newbie to all of this i feel like paying ~$300-$350 for a manual lens that has a fixed focal length and no AF is a bit of a stretch ( i know MF can at times be better than AF but im still learning) im just looking for the cheapest way to take a photo of the milky way and for day-to-day general use (along side my kit lens) i have an a6000 btw
+Alam Alz it's worth a shot, definitely going to have to dial in the exposure. But really anything is game lol
Is using the 16mm 1.4 on the small a5100 camera wrong? I've been using it on that, and the pictures and video seem awesome so far. Im new to photography and social media so I'm just learning. Im using the sigma 16mm on the a5100 to make videos and take street pics and pictures of animals.
No it should be a great combination.
Great review! Thank you for this.
Well, Sigma seems to be a bit better, but it is much more expensive. Especially from second hand.
update with the autofocus samyang 12mm please
You don't use autofocus for astrophotography so what would be the point?
@@highwayman1224 good point. thanks.
Hmmm. Well that was...
I already own the Rok. Have for a couple of years. I have disliked the banding and the vignetting. I'm guessing, from your review that there is no rush, for me, to make a purchase decision on the Sig. However, thanks for getting to this comparo. I now have less anxiety about the need to make a quick acquisition.
Scott TheOzoneGuy yeah man, take your time, both lenses are great in their own way
Exactly my situation. Have the Rok and am saving up for the Sigma as I want an autofocus wide/fast lens but I'm not worried about getting it straight away. I'll probably end up selling the Rok once I get the Sigma too to fund other things
Love the video’s! What lens do you use when you film in your room?
Is there any specific reason why you're shooting at an ISO 1600 for those shots? I have the G9 which has produced just as detailed sky shots at ISO 800/F1.7
No real reason other than the noise difference between the two is negligible and I wanted to reduce and star trailing with a slightly lower shutter speed.
@@ChristopherBurress Fair enough, Chris. Thanks for the reply.
have you tried using your helios on a6500? Would be interested to know how it performs in crop mode
+Darcy Miller I will be getting to it soon! I'm really going to start trying to push more videos out but still up the quality of them.
the production quality is really getting fantastic on your channel, congrats. I think you'll blow up soon on UA-cam to be honest. Take your time to produce these vids, they're great.
+Darcy Miller thanks, I sure hope so!
Have you tried manual vignetting correction for the Rokinon in Lightroom?
Take flat frames to get rid of vignetting
I need those in full frame :(
Wow, thanks for the wonderful comparison! Very good video! New subscriber! Big Like!
Thank you so much
What about the rokinon 16mm f2?
For anyone shooting astro on crop sensor it's a great addition to the kit bag in my opinion - it doesn't quite gather the amount of light the Sigma can, but its better in the corners just like many of its Rokinon siblings. I was using the 14/2.8 Rokinon on crop (Sony A57) for a while, but managed to grab the 16/2 in a-mount brand new off Amazon for $220 - a bargain at that price, although I've not seen it that cheap on other mounts.
new intro is good!)
Considering about sigma lenses?
хитрый Олег =)
Very nice intro. Short and informative
Hi. What are your thoughts on the two lenses for shooting northern lights?
I've never shot the northern lights, so I don't know how bright they are or how wide of an angle you need. If I had to guess, you will have great luck with both lenses.
As always great video thank you.
cool intro, maybe you can make a video about the making of it? how long does it take to create one?
+贾一川贾 well this was literally the very first thing I made in after effects lol. Now that I have done it it probably wouldn't take but a few minutes. But it probably took me 4 hours to learn what I needed to do then implement it. I had different ideas for it but I couldn't find the right tutorial to show me how.
I would imagine the same for me too but I have not worked with video production yet. Still feels fresh when I first started with photoshop it would take me hours to figure out how to get something done, and it was always not quite exactly how I wanted it. I can see you've done an amazing editting, thank you for sharing.
Can you do a review of the Sony 55-210mm lens
+Hunter Brandon I probably will sooner or later but there is no telling when.
Have you checked out the Rokinon/Samyang 16mm F2.0? Phil
How to shoot astrophotography by using panorama??
Nice intro, you may want to add one or some of those wood arts your wife does. I still need to order one :(
Very Good, how do i understand the calculation on how much time to keep the shutter open?
+Sidh Jain Okay here it goes. What you do is take the number 500, and divide it by your focal length number. So 500 ÷ 16 (16mm lens) gives you 31 seconds. That's the upper limit on your exposure time. That is for full frame sensors though. For apsc you use 330 as the starting number and for MFT you use 250. This of course is just a ball park starting number. So while according to the math I should have been able to expose for 20 seconds (330 ÷ 16mm [on apsc]) I didn't like the motion blur I was getting past 13 seconds. This changes based on where you are actually shooting as well. If you are pointed right at Polaris there will be a lot less motion, perpendicular to Polaris will be the greatest amount of movement. So you really just have to give it a go and adjust from there.
Makes sense, Thanks for Explaining, where did you get the number 330? or it is something by default for APSC ones.
+Sidh Jain it's 500/1.5 (1.5 is the crop factor)
Thank you !
What was sitting on your camera during this video pretty much is a tell tale preference.. :O)
I shoot in 4k 24p 100m, picture profile 6
I tried astrophotography one night last week (Sony A6000), it was -2C, somehow I managed to calculate the seconds with the wrong lens, had a Samyang 12mm on but used 18 in the calc. For my first attempt I'm still pleased, here's result: i.imgur.com/DvfSzZ2.jpg (f2.0, 15s, ISO 3200, unedited but yeah a little bit noisy)... I've never taken a shot with so many stars visible though!
rokinon can be had for $200 on ebay
Are you keeping both???
+Tou Yang for now. I'll probably sell one eventually
Also, I’d love to meet you if I’m down there, I️ live near Columbia! Like 2 miles from Lake Murray dam
+TRiddle 55 nice! I've actually fished in that lake! Next time you're in Greenville let me know and we can hang out!
Thanks for this
What's the t stop?
It's very helpful
thank you
Yeah nice intro🤙🏻🔝
you made it ! thumb up!
4:25 ...that's why I always have a Bahtinov mask on before the shot
Awesome
Great vid - cheers :)
You are the best
Where did you get those pics?
I took them at ceasars head in south Carolina
That's what she said.
+Rabon Ragan lol
that's what she said lol great video
Flat Frames .... exist! :)
Seems like an unfair comparison - you should have compared the SIgma 16 and Rokinon 16.
+Kirk Keyes focal length doesn't make it unfair. If the two lenses exist then a comparison is just a comparison. If it was a zoom lens and I intentionally left out a focal length, then it would be unfair.
OK - how about it would have been a more fair/better comparison to have compared the two 16 mm models. By your logic, you could have compared a 85mm lens with a 16mm lens, still a comparison, but it's a bit apples and oranges. Sorry to be nit-picking, but I really enjoy your channel and you typically do a better job of matching the comparisons.
+Kirk Keyes LOTS of people asked fior this comparison so that's why I did it. If I had the 16 rokinon then it would definitely be on my list to compare. But Im just working with what I got.
OK - well that's a good reason then! I can't hold back the people - when they want what they want, then you gotta give it to them!! Keep up the great work!
+Kirk Keyes thanks! Have a great day, and thanks for watching!
Oh man! That's a nasty looking crack on the Sigma lens Chris! What happened?
+DOD Media I don't know! I noticed it about two weeks after getting the lens. I have done nothing but baby it!
:-( Doesn't seem to have offset any of the elements at least! Might be worth wrapping a thin strip of adhesive around it though just to keep it from micro-shifts.
+DOD Media Yeah the IQ still looks good, once I noticed it I took some shots and compared it to my original review shots and all looks good. I think it's only in the filter threads so the front element is still screwed in nice and tight. Buy definitely a bummer.
honestly best advice I can give is cut the first 40 sec of videos like this out entirely. nobody wants to see your intro or listen to you talk about what you're going to show us. Just show us. Show instead of tell.
The transitions in the intro are a bit lame :P
+Navi Retlav I know! Trying to learn after effects... I figured it would be fine for a video or two. But I've got a whole new idea for intros so it'll be changing again soon lol.