Star Photography for Beginners | Samyang / Rokinon 12mm in Field Review (Astrophotography)
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- A full in-field review of the Samyang / Rokinon 12 mm F2.0 Manual Focus Lens for Fujifilm in astrophotography. Previously I was shooting on the Fuji XF 10-24 f/4 which served an almost perfect landscape and astrophotography lens. But I always found myself pushing for such high ISO due to the F/4 aperture.
This is why today I am testing out the new lens to my line up. A dedicated lens for astrophotography, this cheap, lightweight and small lens will serve a perfect service in my kit. Let's see how it has done!
If you enjoyed this video, please give it a thumbs up 👍 and feel free to leave a comment below with your thoughts - I read them all and will get back to you! Thanks for watching - your support means the world to me! 🌏🦘
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Matthew you need to bring into account the crop factor. 500/(12*1.5) = 27 seconds
Ahhhh yes so true!!! Thank you so much!! Lucky I used 20 seconds will put a highlighted comment to fix
@@matthewstorerphotography Awesome work Matthew thankz for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed it mate :)
@@matthewstorerphotography He's right. That's why 30 seconds works for you.
Yeah I know totally forgot to add this into the vlog!
This is extremely helpful for someone who's new to astrophotography! I am so happy you posted this video, thank you!
No problem mate that is fine
I am just really glad it could help you :)
I’ve started experimenting with astrophotography lately, to that end I got Photopills for my phone; previously I’ve used Sun Surveyor which is great as well, they both have their strengths. Photopills have tools like calculating maximum exposure with a given camera and lens, showing you the 500 rule as well as a more accurate calculation taking the camera’s megapixels into account; so in my case, with an X-T20, a 26-megapixel camera, whereas the 500 rules suggests 27s max, the ‘NPF’ rule says 17s at f2.8. The 500 rule was designed as a rule of thumb in the film days, not for the high-megapixel digital age. The NPF rule is more complex, taking aperture, focal length, and pixel pitch into account, but if you have a smartphone to figure it out, why not use it.
Yeah this is super true. Apps such as photopills are amazing for sooo many different uses throughout photography!
The Fuji will definitely let you select slower speeds than 30". Just set the shutter dial to T and then use the scroll wheel to chose between 40", 50", 1 min, 2, 4, 8, 15 minutes.
Yeah this is true. But if I done longer I would need a star tracker becuase the star would move and I dont really like that
Tks for this tip! Did not know this, been using my phone + Fuji app as a remote trigger for longer exposures since I thought it was limited to 30" in Bulb mode.
@@szurheal hey man can u give me a mini-review about the fuji app?
@@alifashrareza There are already a lot of videos on UA-cam that have in depth reviews so I would defer to that, but basically you need to install the Fuji app on your phone, then connect Bluetooth and Wifi to the camera. Once it's synced up, you can transfer photos to your phone wirelessly for quick social media sharing, or use the phone as a remote trigger. Also, syncing your camera to your phone adds GPS tagging to your photos and I would say this is the most beneficial feature since I take a lot of pictures while hiking / backpacking and like to see where they were taken.
Thank you for this video! I’ve been doing single exposure night sky photography and fighting with the shadows. You did a great job breaking down how to shoot for each of the image elements. This is exactly what I need to start doing for my night photography. The only suggest I’d make is to name them differently. The four shots you combined to make a base image were church, trees, base, and foreground. I think of the third one as “full scene” rather than “base” since you’re combining them all to make a base image.
Yeah I totally understand that and get where youre coming from :D thanks forr the feedback
Just got to love Slovenia, spent a few days there and just loved it, so much to see and do. Highly recommended.
Awesome! Love to hear thay where did you visit?
I really loved your video, such as a great tips bro! Congrats, please keep going!
Thanks a ton!
Nailed it pretty well there Matthew. Really enjoyed the explanation on how you approached this. Not done any astro yet but its one of the things I want to try as I love the night sky and I stay pretty close to a designated Dark Sky area
Do it! Its amaizng to be around in the night skies on a beautiful night. Then to photograph it :D would love to see yout eork process of it
Final image is FANTASTIC! Thanks for the tutorial!
You're very welcome!
This is a great lens, and cheap. The only problem is it has a lot of vignetting where the edges are darker than at the middle. This can be corrected in the lens correction tab in Lightroom or Photo Shop. I use this lens with my Fujifilm X-T20.
Yeah I know but remembering the price that isnt a bad thing. Does a better job than the 16mm 1.4 and that is double th3 price. Sometimes vignetting isnt a bad thing
This man just got my respect!
Thanks buddy - appreciate it!
Nice work. A graduated ND filter might come in handy to help control the bright foreground/landscape.
Yeah good shout! Looking at revising this vlog very soon was not happy with how it turned out and the end result. Dont own a grad filter but mayve something to look into! Cheers mate!
An excellent result from what you say is a difficult lighting situation.
Thanks Alex. I wasnt super impressed by the final image. But I know how hard it was to get all the information back in post production, harsh lighting for sure
Great blog as astrophotography is something I am trying to understand. The final image for me was just too bright, but understand that it is down to what works for you. Looking forward to some more blogs about that lens and night photography
Yeah in all honesty I do not like the image much either. The church is just wayyyy to bright in real life and was super hard to exposure for then never mind get the image back in Post Production. Bit annoyed by it to be honest.
Infinity with the Rokinon is not at the hard stop but at the white line on the lens depicting infinity.
that was good info. thank you, we use Fujifilm cameras and always looking for lenses we will look into
this lens …
Yeah do it! Amazing lens for astrophotography. Blew me away!!
Dri blending is a great way to balance the final exposure. Great tutorial and also great to learn as my new camera setup is the x-t1 paired with the samyang 12mm. I sold my heavy full frame 6D and lenses and have saved a small fortune. I learned a lot also from Jimmy McIntyres tutorials using the layer blending techniques. There are many different workflows to learn from but also great to put a personal touch on processing . I love not only getting out there in various situations but the best fun is touching up the images in post thereafter 👍👍
May I ask if you have seen light pollution filters? I watched a tutorial on them and am tempted to purchase one. Would save lots of time in post production
I basically went the same way as you. Also sold my canon 6D to invest into Fujifilm. Never looked back love this gear.
Yeah post production is hard because as you said there are SOO many ways to do it plus many people have different end results. Why i love photography!
A friend of mine has a light pollution filter. But to be completely honest I dont take many night photos and when I do its usually in a complete black spot. Africa, Australia or central Asia where no need to worry.
I went out twice in the past 2 weeks 2 1/2 hour drive to camp out overnight brought all my stuff but forgot my tripod.... lol week 3.... Big Tip: remember tripod. Thanks for the tips man, can't wait to try it out.
Oh wow! Thats so annoying I am sorry to hear mate - my heart melts for you :(
Matthew Storer it’s all good. 3rd times a charm.. lol. Wish me luck!
Hahahaha so they say! Would love to see what you capture tag me on Instagram or something so I can have a look. Keep up the great work and commitment!
Excellent demo. Thanks you so much!
Perfect. Really glad you enjoyed it :)
very good tutorial. it was detailed. I would love to see how you do it in software. Do you combine the 4 images as an hdr photo then add the sky with stars? Sorry kinda lost.
Very informative video, thank you!
No problem glad it could help you :D
I'm thinking about getting into astrophotography. Have you thought about or have you now got yourself a star tracker to follow the stars with the camera?
Hey Christopher, this is great to hear! I have a series coming up shortly that is going to explain hwo to capture the night sky - so this really might interest you. Then hopefully in a few months release a online tutuorial that will show people how to capture and edit the night sky.
I use a star tracker from Move-Shoot-Move it's amazing! Super small and lightweight and perfect to travel around with: www.moveshootmove.com/?aff=70
@@matthewstorerphotography I shall look forward to the series and the online tutorials. From what I've gathered, you've got to stack the the images, which in turn removes noise. I can't remember which free software there is. I shall look forward to your tutorials. 😁👍
Great shot and tutorial =) was the moon out for this picture? Ive noticed that long exposures with moonlight sure makes things look just like daytime! I thought about that for a bit then realized thats exactly what it is, its just sunlight reflected off the moon. Anyways you can have a different more "nighttime" look when the moon is not visible. Just a thought, looks fine either way =)
I chose to shoot this more blue hour shot rather than anything. I normally would should a more pitch black shot but because of thr church and the huge dynamic range I opted not to! :)
You put a lot into that image nice one
Thanks buddy :D was not pleased with the final result but..
Matthew why would you not share the picture you spent talking for so long? Good explanation but listeners do not get inspired by the explanation. Best regards
Hey thanks mate! Yeah i totally understand where youre coming from! I did end up showing the image but?? Just wasnt the best image to demonstrate due to two different light sources. I hope to revisit this type of vlog very soon!
Really great explanation!
Thanks so much!!
The rule is 500\(12*1.5) I don’t think that sharpness will ever be a problem shooting stars
Yeah i forgot to add the sensor size crop factor to it. But remembered in camera to do so
Thanks for value information thumbs up :)
Wish I'd seen this video earlier.
Spent yesterday night on a Milky Way capture attempt. Same lens + Fuji X-T20. Focus was exactly at where you have yours in the video, but I kept it wide open at f/2. My exposures were all long (max 4 minutes) since I was tracking with an iOptron Starguider. Images looked good on the camera LCD. But on a computer, it seemed out of focus.
Ran a test tonight varying focus and aperture against a bright star. Here are my results-
f/2.0 - star is a ball and not pin point sharp
f/2.8 - six spike diffraction pattern appears and star image tightens
f/3.2 - same as 2.8, slightly tighter star
f/4.0 - even tighter, but barely noticeable improvement.
So definitely avoid f/2 on this lens regardless of dark sky conditions. f/2.8 seems to be the sweet spot.
Cheers.
Yep, will for sure head out and do more tests in vlogs because loving the night sky photography
Just curious, where you guiding your iOptron with an OAG and guide camera, at 4 minutes, or just tracking?
@@sonicbrush No OAG for milky way (12mm lens). But I have used OAG for 200mm lens.
Eyeing this rokinon 12mm T2.2 cine version, I do more video and time lapse than stills so each shot had to be good on its own. Not much processing that I could do with time-lapse unlike a still picture. I piggy-back my camera on top of an etx90 scope for tracking and I put the whole scope and camera on a slider and do a parallax with the ground moving and background mountains still and milkyway moving with the scope. Busy but very interesting.
Good work and nice composition.
Thanks so much!
Hi Matthew - For the 4 images you combined to make the base image, you mentioned the base and foreground ones were captured during the blue hour. Were the church and trees shots also shot during the blue hour? They appeared very dark (other than the church), so I wondered if those two were captured when it had gotten dark. Thanks again!
It was a terrrible image to compare to as the church is CRAZY bright and it was really hard to blend together!
Hey, thanks for the effort man. I hate to sound rude here but in your final image the stars movement is so damn obvious although you did go below the 27 seconds (15 you said). I think this 500 rule isn't really that credible and somewhat mumbo jumbo. Anything near 10 seconds is going to show star movement, no matter what focal length (unless you're using a Pentax K1, K3 or something). Big aperture with high ISO, despite risking noise, is the way to go in astrophotography, imho. PLUS when focusing on stars I really don't think that you had to go below 2.0 as 1) you actually want as much light as possible and 2) the stars won't really if at all benefit from the little bit of extra sharpness you would get with 2.8 (They are little dots of light and you have nearly the world in focus with infinity). Care to share your thoughts after a few months of making this video?
Hey Big M, thanks for the reply! I really really appreciate the honest and upfront feedback. To be totally honest back right at you here- I hate this image. This image is a composition I enjoy shooting during sunset or sunrise but with night sky photography - this is out of my depth. The artificial light in this image (the church is SOOO bright in reality and in the image) I prefer to shoot night sky stuff in complete darkness. Please stick around on my channel as I recently done some images of the milky way, which I used the Big M rule so to speak haha on the new Fujfilm X-T3, ISO 3200-6400 and around 10-12 seconds - which works SOOO much better. Also helps that the X-T3 handles noise and works better in lower light situations. But in the final report, simple said, I couldnt agree with you any more than what you said. I can handle low light better in camera and in post production by combating with high ISO number and fast apertures compared to longer shutter speeds. (I will soon delete this and upgrade my thoughts during the winter season) thank you...
@@matthewstorerphotography Thanks for the quick reply bro. The funny thing is that I'm also new to astrophotography and the remarks I made to this video are based on an attempt I made a few weeks ago also with the xt3 😆. I used the kit lens at 18mm as I didn't have a wider angle/better lens for Fuji back then. Now I have the Samyang 12mm f2 and I'm dying for a clear sky night (a very cold rarity in Germany this time of the year) to try it out :P
Regarding the video, I don't think you should delete it. I think you could simply make an annotation referencing a new video where you correct mistakes and probably give better advice (probably also in this video's description). That way you show a learn curve and remain authentic ;)
Regards, Manuel
Yeah I noticed when I was shooting in complete black skies in Asia I was easy able to go to f/2 and around 15 seconds to 20 seconds and get perfect milku way. Just incredably hard to find focus on this lens for me at the moment. But a huge change to this shot in the video. Also shot another image with the 18-55mm and was happy with that. Regarding the vlog idea. Thank you.... after my trip go Asia I have learnt a lot about shooting at night so a update vlog would be a perfect idea :) thanks mate!!!
@@matthewstorerphotography I think focusing on stars is not an easy issue with any lens ;)
Anyway there is this video that I watched a few weeks ago which had helped me a little while trying to manually focus with the 18-55 (cuz even there you can forget about auto focus ;) ). I don't know if this little tip in this video is too little for your experience so far but I found the whole video to be an absolutely nice start, here it is:
ua-cam.com/video/LXdNPkbxaq4/v-deo.html
Thanks so much mate will take a look at it for sure :) thank you
Thank you for the insightful video, Matthew. I have a question I hope you can help me with. In your picture, everything seems to be in focus, so did you do focus bracketing as well when you were exposing for the different images you took (base, foreground, sky)? I'd imagine that if the focus was set to infinity for all images, wouldn't the foreground look soft?
Thanks again!
No I actually didnt for this one, but on most of my night sky images I actaully usually do this! Because the church was really far away it meant that I didnt have to just focusing at infinity covered all this scene in focus! Thanks
0:54 thought that was a meteor ngl
haha
Hello Matthew, I am also into star photography or milky way but I never blended the day photos into the "dark" once.
I am not sure if I undersood you correctly. So you took the picture at daylight and in the night... if so, how did you make sure that you took the night shots at the same position than you did at daylight (distance, angle horizantically & vertically)?
I'd be really, really interesetd on your workflow in post processing. Please share this work too. :-)
Thanks, Stephan
Hey :) that is great to hear you are also into star photography. So o blended an image from blue hour, around 45 minutes before it got completely black. I just left my camera and tripod in the same position and walked away done whatever i had to do. Then come back to expose for the stars. Basically the camera didnt move off the tripod for 2 hours. This is only due to artificial light from the church, if it didnt have that I would have just done an exposure for the foreground and then one for the night sky and blended them together if it was pitch black. :) hope this makes more sense?
Is this lens better than the Rokinon 14mm 2.8 for astrophotography?
For crop sensor camera, yes !
Do you recommend using the long exposure nr when taking Astro photos with the Fuji x camera?, I've never used it because of the processing time after the shutter closes
I do use it. Unless i am taking photos of say lighting or time lapse because you want the interval times to be constant. Apart from that I will use it, yes :)
Sweet image, 40 seconds seem a bit long for that lens size, did you use the 40 second images or shorter one? Thanks for sharing and look forward to seeing that lens used in a true dark site, thanks again!
I stuffed up as someone stated! I forgot the 1.5 crop factor so its actually 27seconds :/ my bad! Totally forgot about mirrorless system. I used the 15second image for the stars anyways as I had sooooo much light to play with!
Yes true! I can not wait to muck around more with this lens
What review, what about Image quality, Coma, ect...
Yeah need to do a better updated version of this lens review sorry about that!
How do you blend the three pintures?
Photoshop magic!
👍
topppp
Thanks mate
Guys don't do this trust me takes the fun out of photography doing all these steps lol just go out light paint the building and do it the real way don't go adding images to images to get the shot get the shot for real it feels better trust me lol this is just not enjoyable once you start doing all of this trust me I know I'm back to doing things normal lol
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Chào :v
Caio!