Seems to be the way to go. Shouldn’t have to do it, should be right from the factory. Looking at upgrading the mower next season anyway. No more John Deere I think. Any recommendations?😎
@@andrecampbell691 it also works fine if you just pump grease till it exits out the bearings. Those seals can’t stop grease, trick is to fill The assembly completely full plus a few extra pumps gets the job done just fine. ua-cam.com/video/PwObkilFXN0/v-deo.htmlsi=z6NNuCPEIHk4sc7H
Mower spindles fail because people don't grease them or when they do they don't grease them full until grease starts coming out. The pressure forces grease past the "seal" into the bearings. The void between the shaft and spindle housing needs to be full of grease to keep moisture out too.
I guess you did not watch the video or if you did it went straight over your head. How would grease enter or come out of a fully sealed bearing assembly? You can pump grease all day long none of it will end up inside the bearing.
@@MikesManCave grease goes through the "seal" and gets inside the bearing. The "seal" is to keep gravity from pulling all the grease out of the bearing. There is a lot more pressure from a grease gun than you realize.
@@javman6022 No it does not, if it did there would have been grease in the bearings that I pulled apart, but strangely enough the seal sealed them. Not sure why a seal would seal something, but for some unexplainable reason it does.
You should watch the video below. You don't have a clue what you are talking about and are pushing your ignorance on everyone else. There is a reason you have to replace your bearings and I don't.
@@javman6022 Ok then, I guess in your own little world sealed bearings are not sealed. Keep on fantasising. All good, unfortunately the rest of the world, including bearing manufacturers will disagree with you. Go to any bearing shop and ask if sealed bearing are sealed.
I've been taking my 1994 Craftsman GT 6000 spindles (3) apart and greasing the bearings yearly by hand for 30 years and 2000hrs and still have the original bearings and spindles.
Did fine research and apparently it’s a very common problem. Another made in China product sold at a premium price. But easy and reasonably cheap to fix once you know👍
One of my spindles is missing a section, but the barring is still in place on this spindle, however bolts keep coming off or undone when mowing. I don’t know if it’s the vibration and or the spindle piece that’s broken
I've got a z355r residential zero turn I mow a lot of yards with and I'm thinking about taking one apart to see if it's like these. They only have 65 hours on them but it's gonna get a lot more hours this summer
They all have the same spindles /bearings unfortunately. I really think for a commercial setting (even home use) you need to strip the spindles, and manually grease them properly before putting them back together. Also try and source quality Japanese bearings, as many are now made in China and they fail quickly.
I've seen similar issues in almost ever brand of mower short of an industrial grade hustler or kubota, and nobody should have to spend 20k to get a reliable lawn tractor.
Yep. They all use the same bearings. They all have this issue. It’s a build in fail. Once you fix it properly the bearings will last for years and years. First part is to remove the seal and actually fill the bearings with grease before installing them.
Can someone tell me how many hours you can expect to get out of set of from the factory john deere spindles. We have a riding mower that only has 48hrs on it and has always been serviced. The mower set up for bout a year and a half and we took it to the dealership to get a new carb put on it to start using it again and they have my bill at almost $900 now saying I new new spindles belts and all. They even tried telling me I need a new fuel pump then took that off the bill when I pointed out if fuel is getting I the crank case then the fuel pump works fine..... it's the carb malfunctioning allowing the fuel to enter the engine. In insight would be helpful... thanks
Bearings are almost always some standard size. Measure the inner & outer diameter, and the thickness, and you can buy new bearings for a lot less than a new spindle. They probably have numbers on them, which tell the sizes in millimeters. Some have the manufacturers name & part number stamped into the edge. Look for tiny little numbers.
Sometimes you can other times the spindles are damaged and you can not simply replace the bearings, I have found half can and half can't be repaired on average.
As I said in there Video it's not JD specific, pretty much every brand mower spindle is the exact same as they use the exact same bearings in almost identical spindles. May be Cox is the only one not the same, no one around here sells Cox mowers In relation to should have bought this or that hindsight is a wonderful thing, if I knew last nights 20 million $$ lotto numbers I would not have put on the numbers I did that did not win anything. PS Just checked the Cox parts list and they use the same bearings as JD and every other mower brand out there.
@@MikesManCave Pretty sure the spindle bearing on mine would be bigger as there's only one spindle, my model cox runs a large fly wheel with short little blades like an old push/hand mower.
Very nice video. If the seal is removed from the top bearing, gravity and centrifugal forces may result in the top bearing running’s dry. If grease is forced out of the spindle assembly two things may happen, the bearings may be lifted from their seats or moisture will be attracted to the grease and find it way into the assembly. The bearings are sealed for a reason, but before fitting they should be inspected for the correct amount of grease even if it means having to repack the new bearings. The grease nipple is provided to ensure the spindle shaft is lubricated and to reduce heat build-up. The fact that there is no exit point for the grease means that over filling can result and not having an exit point means that once the spindle is cavity is filled with grease it will not require replacing for the life of the spindle. In my experience John Deere spindles will last 150 hours before the bearing require replacement.
Those bearings are not fully sealed. The grease will go past the inside edge of the seal under pressure. I thought the same thing when i first saw them... if you do not believe me, press them into the housing pump grease into the spindle assembly with the shaft in there. The grease does in fact go through and out of the bearings. Some of them have a tiny opening in the rubber on the inside edge.
They are the fully sealed bearings that’s why they fail. If the grease was going into the bearings they would not fail after a very short time frame like they do. May be some spindles have the correct bearings but these ones certainly don’t.
Grease will push past the spindle before it goes into the bearing. I have seen grease spill out of the spindle and none went into the bearing at all. They are called sealed bearings for a reason.
@@MikesManCave disagree they are just loose fitting dust covers , ya can pick them out with yer fingernail , grease goes by them like they not even there
If the bearing # has an "####RS" its only sealed on one side. If it says "####2RS" its fully sealed. Look for a small gap or opening on one side and install it inward.
Yes there are various bearings available sealed, unsealed or sealed on one side. But the spindles come with fully sealed bearings from the factory when you buy them.
Where is the follow up video? If you made one, I could not find it on your Videos page. Would it have been pulling the inner bearing seals? Have you found a resolution? My fear is that pulling inners seals would make the outer seals pop off and make a huge mess. The video I watched by *Woodchuck Russ the Deck Dr* shows that the inner seal of spindle sealed bearings do not need to be pulled for a grease gun to grease them. The title is: *Don’t trust the “Experts” Grease your mower deck sealed spindle bearings Common sense maintenance.* You can find it by the title. I guess maybe some sealed bearings are sealed better than others, but the ones Russ used allowed the grease inside the bearing and out the outer seal. I tried it on mine after installing zerk fittings because my spindles don't have them, old ones or new. I saw grease come out the bottom, like you said, but I haven't checked to see if it got inside the bearings yet.
Never made the follow up video as I no longer have the mower, yes pull the seals out, grease the bearings yourself with quality grease and leave the inner seals out so grease can enter the bearing, I have seen the video you speak of. Many mistakes in that video and they are called sealed bearings for a reason.
@@WthaHatchet I was looking at Cub Cadet or Hustler Zero Turn. Still saving my pennies though. Probably get one in spring as we are going into winter now so won't be needing it a lot just yet.
@@MikesManCave I've seen Hustlers thrashed on and just keep going. Used for lawn care businesses that do city violations on the regular with knarly yard and keep on keepin on.
Do you really think that little rubber seal has enough strength to hold back the high pressure of your average grease gun? You can go through the trouble of pulling the inner seals if you want, but I'll just keep on filling the spindle until grease comes through the bearing seals like I've always done. Now I could be completely wrong, but so can this guy. Just do your own research before blindly listening to someone on UA-cam.
They are not rubber seals,, they are called sealed bearings for a reason. You keep pumping that grease that will not be doing anything. If it did work explain why the bearings keep failing after short use.
Okie dokie. When I fill my spindle I get visual confirmation of grease getting in the "sealed" bearings. If you've never done this it will take a lot of grease, so keep pumping, but it will work.
@@rontisdale817 Since I do this for a living I have probably rebuild more spindles than what you have seen. Unless you have X ray vision you have no confirmation that you have grease inside the bearing, grease squeezing past the bearing does not confirm that you have grease inside the bearing where it matters. If grease was going into these bearings then they would not fail after a short time, as once grease actually gets in there they pretty much last indefinitely.
@@MikesManCave be realistic, nobody needs X ray vision. If grease exits past the bearing the assembly can simply be taken apart for verification if someone has doubts that grease reached the inside of bearing. No need to be dramatic about this. It’s simple mechanics. If I take an assembly apart after greasing and fresh grease is in the bearing I know it worked. Nobody needs to do it because if the assembly is good and not damaged and the assembly is just being serviced to provide the Prevnetive maintenance there would be no reason for grease to exit anywhere else if the assembly is pumped full to the point no more air is inside and the grease had to push out it would go through the path of least resistance and that path is the flimsy ruber lip on the edges of the removable shield. I’m only saying it can be verified but most guys who already do this process and have done so for decades already knows it works because the bearings are not failing. As for the box store models like the low end 100 series Deere, the bearings don’t have much grease so it’s very unusual they will last past 300 hours in most cases at least one if not all mandrels will make it past 200 or 300 hours and that’s outrageous for “sealed” bearings to fail that soon if the quality and ammount of grease placed in the bearings was sufficient to begin with they should go much longer. Iv also seen the PTO bearings fail in under 100 hours and those can easily be graded with a grease needle. We just have to be careful about believing that the manufacturer or bearing protections will tell us the correct information about this exact application but it’s easy to run trials on our own to test. If folks think a bearing will overheat if greased too much they can take temp reading before and after and that’s just one of the arguments that’s unfounded. Nobody will show on video that grease won’t make it to the bearings and so far every naysayer on this topic that advises against greasing the unit to the point grease passes the shields will only talk to the DIY community about how it won’t work but nobody will take the time to prove it won’t work. It makes me question how much does that advice mean and how much should we trust that information or the person providing it. My answer is absolutely no need to consider any information on this topic that is not being proven. Simply showing that a bearing is shielded is not showing how grease won’t penetrate the shield. And anybody who stops at that and thinks they have it figured out has given in to false information and it’s a shame we don’t take a little more time to investigate what actually happens. Just because someone is in the business and doesn’t think it’s possible just means they have something to learn. And sometimes we can learn things we didn’t know in a profession we thought we were on top of. No harm in exploring. If we would have all believed that masks prevented the spread of covid everyone would still be wearing masks. But it was a lie and the “professionals” we trusted lied to us and didn’t care about the truth. Wonder why? Hard to say. Why would a manufacturer or anybody else for that matter not make a video to show what happens when an assembly is fully greased and show the results. Or even a video to show why it’s a bad idea? I have yet to figure that out. Could be because they want these things to fail and cause folks to buy parts. Iv never tried getting bearings from Deere but order mine in bulk. The shielded bearings are usually stamped and easy to find in the US anyways. But that wouldn’t be needed nearly as often if folks were greasing the units full. I’m considering making more videos on this tops and running temp tests and leaving one side with the factory grease and filling the other side. May take years to see the results on video but the folks who watch after it’s tested may learn something. Just food for thought. Dont be close minded, have you ever once filled a good working assembly that didn’t have any issues? I don’t think your beating serious about grease leaking out around the shaft in the other comments Iv read because I’m 20 years Iv never experienced that one single time. And I can easily debunk that but I already did in my video about this topic. Not sure why some folks are so reluctant to just try it?
100%, most things are designed to fail it's called 'planned obsolescence'. Most things are now build to fail after a certain time. It's all part of the design process.
Yes they can be lubricant! Those bearings are Capped not sealed! You can lubricant a capped bearings! What is the difference between a sealed bearing and a shielded bearing? Lubrication and Maintenance: Shielded bearings allow re-lubrication. Sealed bearings are pre-lubricated and maintenance-free but need replacement when lubrication deteriorates. Performance and Lifespan: Shielded bearings allow higher speeds but may have a shorter lifespan in contaminated environments
This is a link that shows you that the grease will pass the seals and lube the bearings. You need to pump plenty of grease until it starts to squirt out. ua-cam.com/video/PwObkilFXN0/v-deo.html
Yet the bearings still fail after very few hours. I have squirted plenty of grease till it was coming out everywhere, I have been greasing bearings/machinery/trucks/cranes/tractors etc for 40 years I have a fair idea how to grease a bearing, very little to none goes intro a sealed bearing, they are called sealed bearings for a reason, a bearing needs to be packed full of grease to be protected properly. Try it for yourself and see.
pull them apart and remove 1 seal off bearing, put back together with sealed side facing outwards. Fill with grease, works for me. Good info.👍
Seems to be the way to go. Shouldn’t have to do it, should be right from the factory. Looking at upgrading the mower next season anyway. No more John Deere I think. Any recommendations?😎
You don't have to. ua-cam.com/video/PwObkilFXN0/v-deo.html
You're right it does work if you want to spend the time.👍
@@andrecampbell691 it also works fine if you just pump grease till it exits out the bearings. Those seals can’t stop grease, trick is to fill
The assembly completely full plus a few extra pumps gets the job done just fine. ua-cam.com/video/PwObkilFXN0/v-deo.htmlsi=z6NNuCPEIHk4sc7H
Mower spindles fail because people don't grease them or when they do they don't grease them full until grease starts coming out. The pressure forces grease past the "seal" into the bearings. The void between the shaft and spindle housing needs to be full of grease to keep moisture out too.
I guess you did not watch the video or if you did it went straight over your head. How would grease enter or come out of a fully sealed bearing assembly? You can pump grease all day long none of it will end up inside the bearing.
@@MikesManCave grease goes through the "seal" and gets inside the bearing. The "seal" is to keep gravity from pulling all the grease out of the bearing. There is a lot more pressure from a grease gun than you realize.
@@javman6022 No it does not, if it did there would have been grease in the bearings that I pulled apart, but strangely enough the seal sealed them. Not sure why a seal would seal something, but for some unexplainable reason it does.
You should watch the video below. You don't have a clue what you are talking about and are pushing your ignorance on everyone else. There is a reason you have to replace your bearings and I don't.
@@javman6022 Ok then, I guess in your own little world sealed bearings are not sealed. Keep on fantasising. All good, unfortunately the rest of the world, including bearing manufacturers will disagree with you. Go to any bearing shop and ask if sealed bearing are sealed.
I've been taking my 1994 Craftsman GT 6000 spindles (3) apart and greasing the bearings yearly by hand for 30 years and 2000hrs and still have the original bearings and spindles.
That is the secret no one tells you about.
Very interesting Mike. Good you checked before going and forking out more coin.
Did fine research and apparently it’s a very common problem. Another made in China product sold at a premium price. But easy and reasonably cheap to fix once you know👍
One of my spindles is missing a section, but the barring is still in place on this spindle, however bolts keep coming off or undone when mowing. I don’t know if it’s the vibration and or the spindle piece that’s broken
Make sure you use a rattle gun to tighten bolts, replace any broken parts.
I've got a z355r residential zero turn I mow a lot of yards with and I'm thinking about taking one apart to see if it's like these. They only have 65 hours on them but it's gonna get a lot more hours this summer
They all have the same spindles /bearings unfortunately. I really think for a commercial setting (even home use) you need to strip the spindles, and manually grease them properly before putting them back together. Also try and source quality Japanese bearings, as many are now made in China and they fail quickly.
@@MikesManCave yeah I'll do that. I been thinking I'll order an extra set so that when they do fail I can fix it right away.
@@Evanx373 Yes, The bearings are reasonably cheap, I usually keep some spares handy. They are a disposable item unfortunately.
I've seen similar issues in almost ever brand of mower short of an industrial grade hustler or kubota, and nobody should have to spend 20k to get a reliable lawn tractor.
Yep. They all use the same bearings. They all have this issue. It’s a build in fail. Once you fix it properly the bearings will last for years and years. First part is to remove the seal and actually fill the bearings with grease before installing them.
Can someone tell me how many hours you can expect to get out of set of from the factory john deere spindles. We have a riding mower that only has 48hrs on it and has always been serviced. The mower set up for bout a year and a half and we took it to the dealership to get a new carb put on it to start using it again and they have my bill at almost $900 now saying I new new spindles belts and all. They even tried telling me I need a new fuel pump then took that off the bill when I pointed out if fuel is getting I the crank case then the fuel pump works fine..... it's the carb malfunctioning allowing the fuel to enter the engine. In insight would be helpful... thanks
These are garbage. Spindles are lucky to last 50-100 hours.
Bearings are almost always some standard size. Measure the inner & outer diameter, and the thickness, and you can buy new bearings for a lot less than a new spindle. They probably have numbers on them, which tell the sizes in millimeters. Some have the manufacturers name & part number stamped into the edge. Look for tiny little numbers.
Sometimes you can other times the spindles are damaged and you can not simply replace the bearings, I have found half can and half can't be repaired on average.
My JD dealer also sells Grasshopper and Hustler.
Which I’d prefer.
Have you done the bearing video yet?
Filmed the video, yet to edit it, so many videos to edit so little time, hopefully will be up soon. Thanks for your interest.
Should've brought a Cox, mines been well abused for 7yrs now on rough terrain.
JD mowers are known for this kind of quality
As I said in there Video it's not JD specific, pretty much every brand mower spindle is the exact same as they use the exact same bearings in almost identical spindles. May be Cox is the only one not the same, no one around here sells Cox mowers In relation to should have bought this or that hindsight is a wonderful thing, if I knew last nights 20 million $$ lotto numbers I would not have put on the numbers I did that did not win anything. PS Just checked the Cox parts list and they use the same bearings as JD and every other mower brand out there.
@@MikesManCave Pretty sure the spindle bearing on mine would be bigger as there's only one spindle, my model cox runs a large fly wheel with short little blades like an old push/hand mower.
BB255215NN and BB305513NS are the part #
Very nice video. If the seal is removed from the top bearing, gravity and centrifugal forces may result in the top bearing running’s dry.
If grease is forced out of the spindle assembly two things may happen, the bearings may be lifted from their seats or moisture will be attracted to the grease and find it way into the assembly.
The bearings are sealed for a reason, but before fitting they should be inspected for the correct amount of grease even if it means having to repack the new bearings.
The grease nipple is provided to ensure the spindle shaft is lubricated and to reduce heat build-up. The fact that there is no exit point for the grease means that over filling can result and not having an exit point means that once the spindle is cavity is filled with grease it will not require replacing for the life of the spindle.
In my experience John Deere spindles will last 150 hours before the bearing require replacement.
You make some good points. 150 hrs sounds about right from my experience.
Those bearings are not fully sealed. The grease will go past the inside edge of the seal under pressure. I thought the same thing when i first saw them... if you do not believe me, press them into the housing pump grease into the spindle assembly with the shaft in there. The grease does in fact go through and out of the bearings. Some of them have a tiny opening in the rubber on the inside edge.
They are the fully sealed bearings that’s why they fail. If the grease was going into the bearings they would not fail after a very short time frame like they do. May be some spindles have the correct bearings but these ones certainly don’t.
Just watched another video, they will indeed get grease past the seals and onto the bearings.
Yep it all depends how much grease one will inject into the spindle most people have no clue how much grease is needed per spindle.
Please link the video. They are sealed bearings for a reason, because they are sealed.
Grease will push past the spindle before it goes into the bearing. I have seen grease spill out of the spindle and none went into the bearing at all. They are called sealed bearings for a reason.
@@MikesManCave disagree they are just loose fitting dust covers , ya can pick them out with yer fingernail , grease goes by them like they not even there
If the bearing # has an "####RS" its only sealed on one side. If it says "####2RS" its fully sealed. Look for a small gap or opening on one side and install it inward.
Yes there are various bearings available sealed, unsealed or sealed on one side. But the spindles come with fully sealed bearings from the factory when you buy them.
as dry as that was, my first thought is that you never greased them, I'm sure that is why they failed.
Someone needs to file a federal lawsuit on JD for this known defect….
All the other brands are the same. Must use the exact same spindles.
Where is the follow up video? If you made one, I could not find it on your Videos page. Would it have been pulling the inner bearing seals? Have you found a resolution? My fear is that pulling inners seals would make the outer seals pop off and make a huge mess.
The video I watched by *Woodchuck Russ the Deck Dr* shows that the inner seal of spindle sealed bearings do not need to be pulled for a grease gun to grease them. The title is: *Don’t trust the “Experts” Grease your mower deck sealed spindle bearings Common sense maintenance.* You can find it by the title.
I guess maybe some sealed bearings are sealed better than others, but the ones Russ used allowed the grease inside the bearing and out the outer seal. I tried it on mine after installing zerk fittings because my spindles don't have them, old ones or new. I saw grease come out the bottom, like you said, but I haven't checked to see if it got inside the bearings yet.
Never made the follow up video as I no longer have the mower, yes pull the seals out, grease the bearings yourself with quality grease and leave the inner seals out so grease can enter the bearing, I have seen the video you speak of.
Many mistakes in that video and they are called sealed bearings for a reason.
@@MikesManCave Thanks, Mike.
The manufacturers make money from this ,so stop it we are bloody sick of it
ebay has kits for much much cheaper with everything! 🤘
Great idea. I think I will be buying a new mower soon. No more JD for me.
@@MikesManCave I recommend Hustler! Great mowers!
@@WthaHatchet I was looking at Cub Cadet or Hustler Zero Turn. Still saving my pennies though. Probably get one in spring as we are going into winter now so won't be needing it a lot just yet.
@@MikesManCave I've seen Hustlers thrashed on and just keep going. Used for lawn care businesses that do city violations on the regular with knarly yard and keep on keepin on.
Do you really think that little rubber seal has enough strength to hold back the high pressure of your average grease gun?
You can go through the trouble of pulling the inner seals if you want, but I'll just keep on filling the spindle until grease comes through the bearing seals like I've always done.
Now I could be completely wrong, but so can this guy. Just do your own research before blindly listening to someone on UA-cam.
They are not rubber seals,, they are called sealed bearings for a reason. You keep pumping that grease that will not be doing anything. If it did work explain why the bearings keep failing after short use.
Okie dokie. When I fill my spindle I get visual confirmation of grease getting in the "sealed" bearings. If you've never done this it will take a lot of grease, so keep pumping, but it will work.
@@rontisdale817 Since I do this for a living I have probably rebuild more spindles than what you have seen. Unless you have X ray vision you have no confirmation that you have grease inside the bearing, grease squeezing past the bearing does not confirm that you have grease inside the bearing where it matters. If grease was going into these bearings then they would not fail after a short time, as once grease actually gets in there they pretty much last indefinitely.
ua-cam.com/video/PwObkilFXN0/v-deo.htmlsi=yFRwRdKwzhcOliMs
Huh? Looks like some pretty compelling evidence.
What say you now?
@@MikesManCave be realistic, nobody needs X ray vision. If grease exits past the bearing the assembly can simply be taken apart for verification if someone has doubts that grease reached the inside of bearing. No need to be dramatic about this. It’s simple mechanics. If I take an assembly apart after greasing and fresh grease is in the bearing I know it worked. Nobody needs to do it because if the assembly is good and not damaged and the assembly is just being serviced to provide the Prevnetive maintenance there would be no reason for grease to exit anywhere else if the assembly is pumped full to the point no more air is inside and the grease had to push out it would go through the path of least resistance and that path is the flimsy ruber lip on the edges of the removable shield. I’m only saying it can be verified but most guys who already do this process and have done so for decades already knows it works because the bearings are not failing. As for the box store models like the low end 100 series Deere, the bearings don’t have much grease so it’s very unusual they will last past 300 hours in most cases at least one if not all mandrels will make it past 200 or 300 hours and that’s outrageous for “sealed” bearings to fail that soon if the quality and ammount of grease placed in the bearings was sufficient to begin with they should go much longer. Iv also seen the PTO bearings fail in under 100 hours and those can easily be graded with a grease needle. We just have to be careful about believing that the manufacturer or bearing protections will tell us the correct information about this exact application but it’s easy to run trials on our own to test. If folks think a bearing will overheat if greased too much they can take temp reading before and after and that’s just one of the arguments that’s unfounded. Nobody will show on video that grease won’t make it to the bearings and so far every naysayer on this topic that advises against greasing the unit to the point grease passes the shields will only talk to the DIY community about how it won’t work but nobody will take the time to prove it won’t work. It makes me question how much does that advice mean and how much should we trust that information or the person providing it. My answer is absolutely no need to consider any information on this topic that is not being proven. Simply showing that a bearing is shielded is not showing how grease won’t penetrate the shield. And anybody who stops at that and thinks they have it figured out has given in to false information and it’s a shame we don’t take a little more time to investigate what actually happens. Just because someone is in the business and doesn’t think it’s possible just means they have something to learn. And sometimes we can learn things we didn’t know in a profession we thought we were on top of. No harm in exploring. If we would have all believed that masks prevented the spread of covid everyone would still be wearing masks. But it was a lie and the “professionals” we trusted lied to us and didn’t care about the truth. Wonder why? Hard to say. Why would a manufacturer or anybody else for that matter not make a video to show what happens when an assembly is fully greased and show the results. Or even a video to show why it’s a bad idea? I have yet to figure that out. Could be because they want these things to fail and cause folks to buy parts. Iv never tried getting bearings from Deere but order mine in bulk. The shielded bearings are usually stamped and easy to find in the US anyways. But that wouldn’t be needed nearly as often if folks were greasing the units full. I’m considering making more videos on this tops and running temp tests and leaving one side with the factory grease and filling the other side. May take years to see the results on video but the folks who watch after it’s tested may learn something. Just food for thought. Dont be close minded, have you ever once filled a good working assembly that didn’t have any issues? I don’t think your beating serious about grease leaking out around the shaft in the other comments Iv read because I’m 20 years Iv never experienced that one single time. And I can easily debunk that but I already did in my video about this topic. Not sure why some folks are so reluctant to just try it?
Everybody knows they're designed to fail.. 60 years ago spindles lasted forever...
100%, most things are designed to fail it's called 'planned obsolescence'. Most things are now build to fail after a certain time. It's all part of the design process.
@@MikesManCave it also has a lot to do with the Democrats hijacking free enterprise.. and the Union bulshit
After watching this video….. I will NOT buy a JD ….PERIOD
Most other brands are the same. They use the same spindles. But in saying that I will never buy a JD mower again.
Yes they can be lubricant! Those bearings are Capped not sealed! You can lubricant a capped bearings!
What is the difference between a sealed bearing and a shielded bearing?
Lubrication and Maintenance: Shielded bearings allow re-lubrication. Sealed bearings are pre-lubricated and maintenance-free but need replacement when lubrication deteriorates. Performance and Lifespan: Shielded bearings allow higher speeds but may have a shorter lifespan in contaminated environments
So explain why the keep failing.
My sun south dealer in foley al are thieves!!!!
Agree 100%
That's a grease free spindle.
Then explain why it has greasing points and why the mower shop charges to grease the spindles.
This is a link that shows you that the grease will pass the seals and lube the bearings. You need to pump plenty of grease until it starts to squirt out. ua-cam.com/video/PwObkilFXN0/v-deo.html
Yet the bearings still fail after very few hours. I have squirted plenty of grease till it was coming out everywhere, I have been greasing bearings/machinery/trucks/cranes/tractors etc for 40 years I have a fair idea how to grease a bearing, very little to none goes intro a sealed bearing, they are called sealed bearings for a reason, a bearing needs to be packed full of grease to be protected properly. Try it for yourself and see.
See video I posted.
Thanks for the feed back. 👍👍
John Deere has just become junk
Agree 100%, overpriced and over rated.
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