Shimano Road Hydraulic Disc Brake Bleed - Made Simple!
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- Опубліковано 2 вер 2021
- Shimano Road Flat Mount Hydraulic Disc Brake Bleed - Made Simple! If you find the videos helpful and would like to make a small donation to help support the channel you can do so here www.paypal.com/paypalme/freet...
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Who is this guy? I've watched more than a dozen of his excellent DIY videos on Free To Cycle. He's truly a top notch mechanic. And yet, I've never heard him say his own name.
I refer to him as the Wizard
No name kit, no name guy😂
Excellent DIY! I found the 1/8" ID x 3/16" OD Silicone Tubing to be the perfect size to connect to the bleeder screw. Much better than clear vinyl tubing.
You are the best mechanic I have watched. This tip with the spray bottle fixed a problem I had with my rear Dura-Ace 9170 caliper. I spent hours on end after following all the other videos covering bleeding the brakes and I still always had a lever that I had to pump up or the first pull would go to the bar before I got brake. The front brake I never had a problem with. I was ready to buy a whole new lever and caliper because I thought there was something wrong. I bought some of the tubing you mentioned and followed you instruction and now I have a perfect brake. I don't know how you figured this out but it's the method I will use from now on. Thank you very very much.
Glad to hear it helped you out!!
This channel is the best. If you have shimano groupset it’s the only source you need for maintenance. Which is invaluable.
Thank you!! Just bled my rear Dura Ace 9120 brake caliper as described in this video, and now it works perfectly! Very easy method of brake bleeding. I appreciate your sometimes redundant explanation of bicycle repair work which is so helpful for the non professional bike mechanic!!
Great video, I usually bleed by pumping the lever but thinking I’ll give this a go.
One point with using a bleed block or not, it ensures you have the pad pistons fully retracted when you finish the job with the reservoir topped off with fluid. If you bleed with worn pads in and brim the reservoir, you’ll need to remove the cap to let fluid out when pushing the pistons back for fitting new pads.
this guy is amazing. EXCLUSIVELY great maintenance tutorials.
Worked really well. I tried the "traditional" method with average results. Gave this a bash and was really easy. This guy has great useful content for every eventuality for the at home bike mechanic. Cheers
This is genius I was struggling to get all of the air out but trying this sorted it in 5 minutes
You are amazing !!! You have taken away the fear in bleeding hydraulic disc brakes. Your DIY tutorial is just Fantastic. Thanks again for the video. ❤️😊👍
Best tutorial ever, no fluff all content
Brilliant! This video was so helpful for my first-time bleed. Pulling the old fluid out at the caliper end makes so much sense, as any dirt in the fluid is likely at that end anyway, from brake dust potentially entering the system via the pistons. Why pump dirt from that end all the way to the lever? Thank you so much!
You have the best tutorials on the internet! I'm always reassured when I need to do something and one of your videos are available. Thanks so much and hope you are well on the mend.
Great idea! Speeds things up quite a bit. I'll be sure to try this next time.
I was terrified of installing my own hydraulic brakes until I saw this vid.... brilliant!
This is the best way to do it. I've had issues with Shimano's crappy bleed kit, gravity bleeding is ok but this just takes a couple minutes per wheel and works flawlessly. Great job! Everyone should know about this.
Simple, quick, and clean. Genius!! Thank you!
Thanks for the hack! Just completed a new build and my rear brake was spongy. Came home today and followed the steps in your video, worked like a charm. Only took about 15 minutes. 👍👏
As always, the best info. Thanks!
Wish i had seen this before i bled my brakes. Put spacer in calliper pushed pistons back bled brakes now ive got no pressure in system. Great video
This is simply brilliant, mate!!! 👍👍👍 thank you!
Great video. Thank you. Learning much from your videos. Clear, concise, practical.
Quality and no nonsense 👍
I like the way you put this together. The bleed kit we got was missing that stupid road adapter, but will definitely be using this method. Cheers
Mind blown! Going to try this out.
Brilliant idea!👏👏👏
This is amazing... Very informative! Cheers
Absolutely clever, always a pleasure seeing your contents! Congrats
Wow…Amazing video! Thank you for all your help!
Great tutorial and tips.👍
Thank you so much. I followed all your instructions and everything worked out quickly and easily when bleeding my Ultegra 8170 rear caliper. When screwed into the shifter, I found that my Shimano bleed funnel was on quite an angle (e.g. ~45 degrees towards the rear of the bike) when both wheels were on the ground. I raised the rear wheel up 600mm, that brought the bleed funnel on the cockpit to be essentially vertical. This raised the caliper to be 3-5cms above the brake level/piston, which I reckon would have assisted in the bleed process (???). Got lots of bubbles. No mess. Great advice.
Excellent idea👍 Will be off to try that out later on.
Simple and brilliant technique. 👍
Great hack, keep them coming 👍
Great video, worked a treat, thanks!
brilliant idea, cheers for that. 👍
An excellent video. Thank you.
Thank you for this video. I have referenced your videos many times and they are always the best, even better than ParkTool's. A lot more practical. I have to join your Patreon channel. Ride safe.
you are so amazing!! A very creative mechanism
Brilliant mate thank you so much 😊
Brilliant. I used an old alcohol spray bottle from post covid. At the end I just flushed some alcohol through it to glush out the dregs of the oil.
Excellent idea!
I’ve had hydraulic disc brakes for a few years now and no way would I go back to calipers, especially now I can bleed them quickly and efficiently, thanks!
Thanks so much!
Thank you for mentioning how crappy the bleed block spacing is. I use an old set of brake pads with a business card folded over enough times to simulate pads and disc spacing. I don't trust myself to not contaminate brake pads, if you saw stains on my shop walls, ceiling, floor you'd understand.
Beautiful hack!
always struggled with my hydraulic brakes. ill give this a go tomorrow
Nice hack! I am learning about hydraulic brakes before I commit to one
Great information. Thank you
Clever! Reminds me of my old moto daze bleeding double disc front brakes with a vacuum pump just for the purpose. Gotta admit I never thought about a cheap spray bottle for the same purpose though the typical syringes with most bleed kits does pretty much the same thing.
''does pretty much the same thing'' but these brand name kits ( shimano, sram etc ) with syringes are very expensive for what they are
Amazing!
Genius! Hope you are healing okay.
Wonderful ,new there had to b an easier way ,well done.
great video once again.
What's your opinion on doing lever bleeds / burping the brakes?
A lot of people seem to swear by it, but you look like you're enjoying proper bleeds.
Masterful.
This is genius.
Quality vid
Use some old disk pads (if not fully worn out) if you're worried about any contamination while doing work without a bleed block. Then once done clean it all out and put existing pads back in.
This is a much better technique though as so many times I've had to add extra fluid after take bleed block's out as were still spongy.
good idea mate, you seen that park tools guy be there all day, cool want to know were to get into the lever, but going to try this too cherrs man
Complete Genius
Nice!
Genius. Top hack.
you make this soooo simple, thanks, i feel confident now to do this myself. What about a stripped screw head for the break callipers? how on earth do you remove that?
You could tap a torx bit into it using a hammer ,to catch the sides, or sometimes you can jam a flathead screwdriver tip into it if you have one of the appropriate size. Finally, or second to last, You can dremel a slot into the top of it then use flat head screwdriver, or use a file and carefully file parallel flats on the side of it and use the tip of an adjustable wrench, wrench held tip forward orthogonal to the screw
A left handed drill bit will turn it out too but if consider that a lasy resort unless you have a replacement screw. With these others you can reuse the screw afterwards.
A chisel and hammer can turn a fastener out too
Genuis!
Really baffled by this, I can get a firm lever with the bleed block, but it always goes all the way back and doesn't become firm when I'm bleeding with the wheel and rotor fitted. Thanks for the alternative approach! I'll bleed my own brakes correctly one day if it's the last thing I do.
I have always been a bit scared of fiddling with my road bike's hydraulic brake system, but money is tight and I can not afford to take my bike to the shop to get very spongy brakes bled. After seeing this today after doing the front brake the hard way (Which did work) I went onto amazon and bought a length of Silicone rubber tube and I am doing my rear brake today! and the brakes on my Hybrid! THAN YOU so much I assume this works for front brakes as well? PLEASE PUT YOUR NAME UP SO WE KNOW WHO TO THANK!!!
looks like this beats the crack off/pumping/ cracking off caliper nipple for 20minutes, going through buckets of fluid and hopefully get a solid bleed. the 7050's are a b**** to get them solid. I'll give this a whirl tomorrow.
that's a totally different method than that found on Shimano manual. This includes a number of steps: 1) inject oil from the caliper 2) gravity bleed 3) pump bleed (like on cars) 4) additional pumping with the funnel on, and the funnel tilted forward and backward. In each of these steps one should pay attention at the orientation of the lever/ funnel. Overall is very time consuming and a bit of a nightmare - which makes me hate hydraulic control for disk brakes.
What I like of this method instead is that the sprayer effectively sucks oil out, with a stronger action that any of those Shimano steps. So the sprayer may be able to dsiaplace air bubbles more effectively. I will give it try! THANKS!
Excelent: 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
I love you mate
Hi. Just wondering where I can get a decent length of bleed tubing from? Another great tutorial as always. Thanks
Silicone vacuum tube clear, on eBay!
Genius
Great tutorials! I’m curious about the left brake lever controlling the rear brake. Is that a personal modification?
That’s how bikes are setup in the UK!
British standard setup
Excellents advices, as on other videos. I’m just curious about one thing: what’s the difference between the spray bottle and the syringe usually provided in bleed kits? Does it pump with more pressure, or is it the same?
One of them you can buy at the corner store, the other you can't!
Plus the syringe can either push or pull, depending on your preference, which can be useful.
The syringe works well to push new oil into the system but you eventually run out of oil to push or space to pull and have to disconnect the syringe. With the spray nozzle you can just keep pumping and refilling the cup. It is very ingenious really, the spray bottle can suck air and fluid and it has a one way valve that stops backflow into the system once the fluid leaves the nozzle.
could you have done it the other way? Bleeding by pushing new brake fluid from the caliper using a syringe into the bleed cup...will that work too?
That's the Shimano procedure. The problem is that you run out of oil in the syringe and you have to disconnect it to refill it. Then you also have to empty the cup. With this method you just refill the cup as fluid gets moved through the system. It's actually pretty genious, the spray has a one way valve so it doesn't let air or fluid return once it leaves the nozzle.
Just thinking that this method wouldn’t be suitable if you replace your pads with new ones after you’ve bled. Because the fluid volume may be overfilled for newer thicker pads.
i wanted to try this method. after replacing the hose (because of cahnge of bars)
i couldnt get it to pull fluid through, so i wanted to start with the original method of pushing fluid from caliper to lever, then do this afterwards.
but i am not able to push fluid through the caliper no matter how hard i push the syringe.
i have opened the bleed nipple and removed the plunger in the cup at the lever.
any tips on what to do, is there anything to try before pulling the hoes out of the caliper and lever and checking the barb/olive ?
Some hoses come with a plug where the barb is installed at the factory. You have to get this removed with a pick or a similar tool before any fluid can pass through the hose.
Does the brake fluid come in different colors? It'd be nice to be able to tell when new fluid is coming out in the house ( fully bled ).
Shimano mineral oil is a light reddish colour as the oil goes through the system over months it goes dark red like her a dirty red colour
Cheap mineral oil can be used in the place of Shimano fluid. It's the same. Mineral oil is colorless.
Hello, I’m trying to bleed my brakes but fluid is coming out of the port on the lever! I’ve tried to tighten it up but it get to a point where it just turns without tightening. I haven’t used much pressure at all so it can’t be threaded! These were bought last month and installing today. Any advise would be much appreciated.
You must have the rubber O ring missing?👍
When you order a BR-R Ultegra 8170 caliper on line does it come with all of the different lengths of fastening screws or do you have to know which length you need and order a caliper with the proper length.
The rear caliper is the one that may require a different bolt length depending on the chain stay thickness! The bolts are available separately should you need them.
@@FreeToCycle I know that I need 30 mm for an S-works Roubaix. There is no way to specify this on the order. It seems rather inefficient
Show 👏👏👏👏👏
wow noice
Where can you source the 3ft of hose from? Thank you, great video.
Ebay or Amazon will sell it!
no moving the handlebar needed? loved It....I guess It can be done with MTB brakes?!
Yep! Works on anything.
do I need to do the burping thing on STI?
You can hold the lever in after bleeding just to check for any air in the reservoir
Does anyone know what the internal diameter of the tubing used to connect to the brake caliper?
I bought {1mm internal 3mm external} silicone tube from amazon as this what was supplied with my original bleed kit I am doing this today so will post my results!
Fantastic! How do you clean your bleed cup?
Just use some warm water!
Isopropyl alcohol
I throw all the stuff in a zip lock bag for next time and don't clean it.
So I tried it, and I have one concern! When I was spraying the oil into the cup, I noticed the spraying part was infusing the oil with air bubbles. Did this affect anyone?
When you let the oil rest the dissolved air will release on its own.
How does one get a hold of this hose?
Amazon etc will sell them.
Genius method. Thank you. I really have never understood the fluid from the bottom up method. Why did Shimano make it so fiddly?
Well, in theory it makes sense because air bubbles will flow up the line due to gravity. This assumes that the line does not have traps and the line has a straight path up. This is why it is much easier to bleed the front caliper. This method works great for brakes that have oil in the line. For new brakes I would start with the Shimano method and then move to this one.
Can i do this to sram rival? It look easy
No!
Why not?
Seems like a good method but not a big fan of bleeding with a wheel on. You should always take the wheel of when bleeding to avoid contamination the rotor or pads
Keep the tube as short as possible otherwise you’ll end up with most of the fluid in the tube and not coming out of the nozzle!
This was one of the best videos on hydraulic brake bleed. If I can find a spray bottle like that I will utilize his system should make it a lot simpler. Unfortunately UA-cam made it exceedingly difficult for me to come back to this video after watching at least a half-a-dozen many of those not so good. I done brake bleeds on cars and motorcycles looks like a bicycle is going to be the most complicated. But UA-cam made it all the worse by making it exceedingly difficult to just come back to this video I hate Google and since they bought UA-cam they done nothing but loaded up with ads no improvements or anything don't be evil Google but alas you are greedy SOB's
It's just at the end that I realize that you put your rear brake control on the left, you must come from the motorcycle world ...or at least from the clutchless motorcycle world.
He's a Brit, and UK road and mtb bikes all have a rear on left, front on right set up. Not sure why.
@@dannyholder1359 ''rear on left, front on right set up'' this does not allow, like the normal configuration, to do the following : when you come to a stop at the bottom of a slope, you can down shift the gears of the rear dérailleur while braking with the most powerful brake (the one in front).
Can you make your content inclusive by formatting the auto captioning into closed captioning please? it is extremely hard to watch it relying only on the auto captioning sadly (I'm Profoundly Deaf), hence why I and others don't subscribed.
Like that it looks like that really good like that.