Drill Deeper with your Drill Press
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- Two ways to use your drill press to drill deeper than its maximum quill travel. First we adjust the table to clamp our stock to it; then we build a jig to hold the stock. Finally we show and discuss how to use an extra-long bit to drill an 8-inch hole through our stock. More details plus links to where you can obtain the bit, glue and other items on our website, woodtoolsworksh...
Cool Jig Fred, Thanks for sharing. Thumbs up.
+PRIVATEO PRIVATEG Thanks, man. I'll be using it soon to make a crock stick for a friend, to drill the holes that house the ceramic rods. This should be interesting!
Clever simple jig. I don't think I've ever seen a drill bit that long...
Or table saw the piece in half, rout a half round in each piece then glue them back together. This method works on any length of material and will always be exact. I wouldn't trust a very long drill bit to not wander off centre.
That can be a good method if it's possible with the item you're making. The reason I got started with this is because a friend asked me to duplicate a crock stick for him. Trying to use that method would not have produced satisfactory results in my opinion. Take a look and see what you think. There are four videos on the subject; here's the last one, showing the block with the holes drilled and the sides routed.
ua-cam.com/video/jIuOf84gsew/v-deo.html
Wood Tools Workshop
I think you helped a lot of people just by saying that you make your mistakes and learn thusly. Nice presentation and good luck to you
Cool. If you built your jigs vertical length a little longer and had a guide on either side of your drilling stock, you could manually raise the stock into the bit without having to move the table up and down. Thanks for the inspiration.
Although I don't need to currently drill such deep holes your video got me interested in the issue. Thanks for sharing!
Cool man! I've wondered time and time again how to do a precise deep hole like that! Cheers!
clamp your table gear in place. Then use your height crank to move the piece instead of the spindle stroke.
Thank you for sharing. My channel is also working on this topic. Hope your channel always grows.
....if I would've know that trick a few months back it would've made my life much easier....I will have to make one eventually thanks for sharing cheers
My pleasure. Thanks for watching!
I am lucky enough to have a drill press that has a square table with a long apron at the edge. I made a jig that just has a rail on one side to keep the workpiece square to the drill chuck. fastened it to the rain with a couple of bolts and clamp the workpiece to the jig. to clean out the bore I just unclamp and dump then return the piece to the set jig and continue...
Looks pretty zoot. As soon as I get a drill press, joiner, planer, radial arm saw, workbench with dogs, and some 8" drill bits I may just give this a shot.
Here's hoping that comes soon, John. :)
Great idea, thanks. My only thought was if you used a piece of 3x3x1/8 angle iron for the horizontal piece, it would eliminate one possibility of error since the angle iron is already at a perfect 90 degrees.
Thanks for Sharing. ....I was searching this idea for Many Months. ...Actually I am a Flute Maker from India. ..planning to Make Wooden Flute., But making such a long Hole was a BIG Problem. ...Now Hope I will be able to do that. ..Thanks for sharing again.
thank you very much for sharing your learning experience with the rest of us.
My pleasure. Thank you for watching.
Pretty good accuracy!
Or try a lathe with 4 jaw chuck.... spin the wood.
Get a long auger bit. The screw point will self feed the bit but proper clamping makes that not a big deal.
Great video. This is exactly the problem I was facing...and the hole needed to be the same---8.5"
I needed hearing protection to listen to the segments with your power tools running. Where was yours?
YOu could mount a scissor jack to the table and see if that tracks straight. If it does, a simple jig to attach your work piece vertically and bob's your uncle. You can then use a battery powered drill to raise and lower the scissor jack.
👍 That is pretty clever! Looks so much easier than what I do. I put the stock in my clamp, and keep putting 2x4's under it raising the stock piece, with a centering jig which gets to be a pain having to realign Start and stop, start and stop, hahaha heck I even ruined a few pieces with my hand drill in my bench vice. I have had only needed to do this a couple times, and haven't had much shop time lately..sigh.. 🤷♂️ Anyways, awesome time saving tip 👍Thank you!
Glad to know it was helpful!
Thanks ! I was facing the same conundrum ! Now I got a better idea on what to do !
is a simple attachment and works. my suggestion would be to build an accessory that moves in the same way that the table does it. You can buy a rack like the column in your drill with the match worm screw and handle and make the other parts in wood like the one you just did. you could drill deep as is possible in one shot.
One problem with this approach is that a bit that long will often wonder off center depending on the grain or knots of the wood. An out of the box approach could be to over size the piece of wood the width of a saw blade, cut it in half down the middle, cut a cove with a router in each half, the radius of the hole, then glue it back together over drill bits at each end for registration. Not sure what your project was, but this can give one quite straight and unlimited length holes. If its just to cover a long bolt or running thread, you can just dado the slot making a rectangular or square hole.
As always, a number of factors come into play in deciding what method to use. Larry Evans, of Mockingbird Flutes, favors the split-and- routed method you describe for his flutes. Butch Hall drills a solid blank from the end for his flutes. I wouldn't argue with either of them that the other way is better.
By the way, here's the project I was preparing for.
ua-cam.com/play/PLKM8Ajtow2UJl26PIDDMgTo4_bFm4nGSD.html
Build your initial block from four pieces, so that you have an eight inch square hole in it, smaller than the drill bit. Then drill, and your waste can somewhat fall through. Keeps the hole straight too.
glad to see your knees are doing good now . thank you good stuff
Nice video and look forward to seeing more. Well done.
Thank you.
You could have just drilled as far as the drill press would let you without raising the table. And then finishing the hole with a drill using that hole to guide the drill bit all the way through.
Excellent video, thanks for sharing !
I level table to pillar. If you have a hard time getting hole very centered you could make stock a little over size and hand plne to get very close.
Thank you for the great tip :)
Excellent, Fred
Plus you sound like Herschel from The Walking Dead
you have a radial saw that can do that. used mine to do it 40 years ago with the pto. the travel on mine was i think 14 inches. the setup of course isn't vertical .
In your example, why not flip the stock over and drill from the other end.
The holes SHOULD meet correctly in the center.
Then maybe you would not need to lower and raise the table as much.
Of course you could just split your stock, rout out a channel and glue back together.
But is that too easy?
I like your jig but have a suggestion: Once you have the hole started, instead of lowering and raising the table, just un clamp the work piece from the jig and slide it down off the drill, clean chips and slide it back up on the drill bit to a new higher location and drill again.
Instinct tells me it would be very difficult to slide the piece off the drill bit and back on again. But maybe not. Next time I get a chance, I'll try it and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestion!
Bob, I just suggested the same advice....The presentator feels it might be a problem to easily extract the squared wood..., may be not if the drill is turning when the wood is coming in and out...It has to be tried,,,,
well done, thanks
I'd think after the initial 3 inches or so, you could remove it and switch to a hand drill. The direction of the hole is set and you can clear the dust and keep going much easier in your bench vise.
I don't know, I would think it would be a strain on a hand drill, plus having a greater possibility of getting off-center. But I'd have to try it to know for sure. :)
Wood Tools Workshop maybe rub a candle on the drill bit to reduce friction? The chips will definitely compact on the flutes and you need to pull out periodically, but the wax should help a hand drill a lot, there’s a 3-5x improvement when rubbing a candle on the soul of my hand plane
@@duminicad i even use it on a coping saw.
Great idea. Thanks for sharing.
Just one observation if I may. Rather than drilling down as far as you can go, then stopping and raising the table then drilling down the next section, is it feasible to leave the drill chuck in the uppermost position and drill the hole by winding up the table?
Well, the spindle assembly is designed for raising and lowering in a straight line, whereas the table is designed for sitting still. The clamp that holds the table in place vertically also holds it in place horizontally, so when it's loose the table wants to move sideways; in fact, it wants to go sideways even more than going up or down, because the rack-and-gear mechanism that raises it gives it some resistance vertically, but there's nothing holding it from moving sideways (the rack moves freely around the column).
The main issue with drilling a hole this deep is getting rid of the waste. Once the flutes fill up, the bit has to be backed out to get rid of that waste before it can drill any deeper. So even if you were going to do it by raising the table, you couldn't just do that all in one smooth operation; you would still have to stop, wind back down, get rid of the waste, and wind back up again a few times.
Wood Tools Workshop
Thanks. That makes sense.
Why couldn't they make the table to adjust up and down like a lathe does? Only difference would be vertical instead of horizontal, you just simply turn a hand crank for the table to go up and down and the quill remains stationary. "In some ways" a drill press is a lathe it's just vertical instead with no tailstock. In fact, if you wanted to with a few modifications, a drill press could indeed be transformed into a lathe and then flipped horizontal.
I was thinking the same thing while watching this video. His table does have a rack and pinion set-up to raise and lower the table so, in theory, it should work. Unless the table adjustment isn't somehow accurate enough to do it. But if it goes straight up and down without any lateral movement it really should have or could have been the solution. I have a really cheap Harbor Freight benchtop drill press without the crank-adjusted table or I would have tried it. As for the drill press acting like a lathe, that's absolutely possible too. There are a ton of videos here to bear that out. You don't necessarily have to tip it sideways either. Just think of it as a verticle lathe.
After I make the first few inches of the hole I probably would have slapped the bit in my hand drill and pushed it the rest of the way through. These bits aren't made to cut sideways and since the first few inches already determine the attitude, I don't see it as a problem.
@@guitarman_3693 Mine doesn't have that feature but I see what you are talking about.
Thanks been looking for some way to do this
Me too
I found my locating pin made my bed off by 1.5-2mm from side to side so I removed it and used a DTI and my bed is now .03-.05mm side to side.
hell yeah, for 8" it looks very good....I don't think I would be too upset if it was off center a little.....another trick is to move the stock....not the drill. :)
Thanks, Justin!
Great idea!
Great job
cant you drill through the middle of the table?
You are Great...👍👍🤩🤩♥️
Hi I'm a new subscriber from your you tube channel,I got a question sir about drill press,which is better drill press a variable drill press or a manually adjusted belt to get the desired speed,what's your opinion about it.thanks sir,and one more what brand do you recommend?that will last me forever,I'm going to use it in woodworking project and some occasionally metal use.
Would it be easier to drill that hole using a lathe?
I'm not sure. I don't have a lathe, so I can't do it to compare. I would guess it would be. If not easier, then at least more accurate due to less adjusting during the process.
May I ask a favor on future videos? When recording the sections with just the tools running, could you please turn (or edit) the recording volume down - way down?
I watch these videos on my phone at lunch using earbuds to listen to them so I won't disturb my coworkers. If I turn the volume on my phone up high enough to hear your voice, when it gets to a section with just the tools running, the sound is deafening. Much too loud - especially the thickness planer. That was painful.
Otherwise, it was a great video.
Thanks!
I apologize for the excess noise. I've learned a lot about recording sound in the shop since this video was made. Now I mute the sounds of power tools. I like to leave the clicks and taps of hand work, but anything that might be found offensively loud gets muted. I would likely go back and redo early videos such as this one, but presently UA-cam doesn't allow an uploaded video to be edited. It would have to be a new one, which would show without the history of this one (I'm really happy about 15,000 views). Thank you for pointing out the problem. I need to be told things like this in order to improve the quality of my videos. Also, thank you for your mild tone while doing so. That, too, is appreciated. :)
Fred! thanks for the video..it was helpful However, I am also trying to drill an 8 inch depth in a ten inch length of wood...the wood being 3 inches in diameter and i want to make a 2.75 inch smooth hole....any suggestions of what bit might be available to do this type of project or tips on how?
You could try to basically “rough out” the portion of the wood you want removed by drilling a bunch of smaller holes then take a hole saw that is the same size as the one you would like drilled and carve out the rest with it. I’m not entirely sure that last part would be safe to do with a hand drill so you would have to complete it in a drill press.
Nice shop Fred,
It looks like you have a lot of tools. Is there a lathe in there somewhere.
It might be less problems to use that and drive the stationary drill bit into
the piece that's mounted in a fixture.
No lathe as of yet. I haven't had enough interest in turning to move me to buy one, but being able to drill deeply like this on one is a definite plus. Especially when making native American flutes, I imagine.
radial arm saw, planner, jointer must be nice, that's how the rich people do it, us poor folk just put the piece on the floor between our feet and drill from both ends with a hand held power drill and hope for the best....
Been there, done that! Keep at it...and keep an eye out on Craig's list.
No, not rich people. Some of us unrich just save and budget and skip going to the movies, buying a new iPhone, eating out over the years until we can accumulate these tools. Depends on your priorities.
would using a big hydraulic car jack and guide from the bottom be a better way ?
Whatever way you do it, you have to be able to back the drill bit out periodically to clean the waste out of the flutes. Otherwise it won't keep cutting deeper, and it will build up friction heat and ruin the bit.
Efficient device, I will remember it.
When it is time to clear and clean the groove of the drill, would it have been easier to unclamp the piece of wood?
That drill bit has a tough grip on the stock. Even cranking the bit up requires care; it wanted to pull the piece out of the jig. Getting it off the bit with your hands would be a real wrestling match.
W"T"Workshop...in order to avoid this wresling match like you say, while you pull the piece of wood out, turn the spindle , back ward or counter clock wise, by gripping the belt with the other hand. The lips of the drill do not cut or bite this way....( Machinist's tip)
remige2006 Thanks, good tip!
drill half way ,flip it over and no need for extra long drill
But is it straight and will it meet without damage to the wood?
Yep - that's what I do. Very accurate as long as you have an accurate jig.
احسنت فكره جميله
شكرا!
have you considered a chuck on your radial arm saw? i have done that with some success
No, I haven't. How did you set it up?
well i passed the saw down to my SIL, so i cant take a pic, but its just a $10 chuck that threads on to the arbor - it may be the opposite side of the motor that the blade mounts to and your RAS may or may not have that option, but i just turned the motor to the ripping position, this way the arbor is perpendicular to the table and parallel to the arm slide motion. i hope that makes sense. i built a bigger table to give room to clamp my work down, and drilled by just pulling the motor out. i was drilling 10" deep holes 1" diam into solid red oak.
It does make sense, and the shaft has threads on the back side to accomodate the chuck. I wish you did have pics, because I'm having trouble envisioning the table and clamps, and how you would be able to reach the motor from behind them. But it's definitely worth checking into. Thanks for bringing it to my attention! If I do a video on it, I'll be sure you get credit for the idea.
You know, it occurs to me that this might be turned into a decent lathe with a bit of effort. Hmm...
Unfortunately you have a two-fold problem. You need a longer bit, but the spindle movement is only a couple inches if the spindle movement could be increased somebody needs to make a drill press that way
How about round stick?
Just have to get a good grip on it. The sandpaper on the jig should help with that. Possibly some feet for the clamps that are curved to fit the diameter of the stick.
This confuses me? The drillpress table did not need to be moved to the side at all, just raised in height. Having a floor model drillpress you have more than enough height to make a jig holding your piece upright and in the centre of the table as usual. Why did you go through all this extra effort?
I used that short piece of stock in my demonstration so that we could see the bit come out the other side and observe that it had stayed in the center all the way. When you're drilling this way, it's generally going to be for something like putting dowel holes or mortises in the end of a rail or table leg--stock that's too long to be centered on the table with a jig.
+Wood Tools Workshop that makes perfect sense. With a longer piece it would support it along the full length. Very cool! Thank you for the reply.
why not half drill from each side? that way you are sure the ends are accurate
It can create a bend halfway where the two holes meet from either end. There are ways to accurately do this but they're very labor intensive. Although in theory he can now drill holes twice the depth he can do from one end now if he wishes.
Exactly!
Perhaps if you had the ability to conjure up magic you could have skipped all of this, but since you probably don't it's perfectly reasonable and a good idea.
Well, my partner finds me pretty magical! ;) Thanks for the complement too.
it looked of just a tad visually but not bad tho
so the 3 times a decade I need to do this vs a several hundred dollars worth of tools .. win
Win. :)
Hey man your tool noise sound level is way too loud vs your narration sound level.
otherwise good video.
Not for me there more than 10 ways to do that
CHAGONE !!!
youll be receiving a bill in the mail for my medical costs... 5:42 gave me cancer
Oh, no! It was only supposed to put you in the looney bin for a couple of months!