Older video, just found your video of building your shop, I Congratulate you on the work you did, you tackled something alot of folks wouldn't attempt to do, you built a very nice shop and I know you are proud of it, hope you enjoy your shop and good luck with all your future projects, SUBSCRIBED.
You're my hero dude. Phenomenal job tackling this by yourself for the most part, great inspiration to possibly build something like this in the future.
Once you get the first run of decking on the roof, and if you have access to a front end loader, you can lift the rest of your decking up even with the edge of the roof. Eliminates running up & down the ladder. Nice job by the way. I built most of my shop by myself too.
As a master carpenter, I could rattle off several things to do that would have been easier and more efficient..(but I won't), I definitely give you tons of credit for taking on a build by yourself! Nice job!
@@puppygadget3189 GC here from Canada. Reading through this comment, keep in mind that for me, spending more on specialized materials saves the customer money through labour, so the perspective is very different. For example, we'd use Hilti bolts instead of J-Bolts in the concrete because it's much faster to drill exactly where you want instead of custom drilling each hole for the plates. Foundation: Generally you'd want a deeper footing as well as a vapour barrier under the concrete. Adding more gravel under the slab will prevent heaving. Usually what we'd do is dig the footing leaving a small opening for the skid steer to go in, saving you the time of wheelbarrow-ing stuff around. You'd also want a tracked skidsteer (compact track loader) to reduce the wheel ruts of moving around. Having one person with a laser level will speed this process up and also make it more level, saving money on concrete. You can also use depth stakes in the concrete to ensure that the pour/screeding is level or at the grade that you want. Framing: You want a treated bottom plate. Especially considering that there is no drain inside (which I'd also probably add, but that adds cost). One way to also save some time/money would be to put the windows exactly 4ft and make the 4'x4' up so you can just cut the sheathing in half and use them in other places. Bump the walls to 12ft and you could use a sheet and a half to do the whole wall. Making the building multiples of 4 in general will also simplify many aspects of the build. Roof: Roofing sucks. There's no single part about it that doesn't suck. However, if you live in a calm area with very little wind, we found that building a little stand (sort of like how he used the ladder to slide them up) to hold the plywood up at grabbing distance while you're on the roof minimizes the amount of time spent going up and down the ladder. Load up the stand with a bunch of sheets and then grab them one by one. As for putting the wrap on the roof, use chalk lines to simplify things and keep them straight. Same with the shingles. The lines on the tar paper or whatever system you use are never quite straight or the same from roll to roll. We mostly use the Zip system for the walls and roof now though. Exterior: He's right, stucco is incredibly labour intensive. I'd probably just use wood shiplap (pre-finishing before putting it up) or vinyl. Additionally I'd put flashing above the windows to reduce water ingress. Conduit: I've seen some electricians put large straight sections together and then attach a sponge to a piece of string. The string then attaches to your wires. Vacuum the sponge string through the conduit and then pull the wires through. Drywalling: Drywalling is unpleasant. I'd recommend using a vapour barrier to prevent moisture from getting in and turning it to a paste. Put some paint on edge of the electrical boxes and press it against it to leave marks exactly where they are. Then cut them out and they'll be bang on. That being said I'd just use 3/8 plywood instead of the drywall, especially in a shop so you can just attach things to the walls easier. Additional notes: I'd probably have put 4-5 more 240v and much more 120v outlets in there. This allows you to rearrange your big tools or add to them. We also use a CAD software to pre-design everything beforehand. Sketchup Make 2017 is free. This takes a lot of the thinking and problem solving out of the actual construction process. It also minimizes material waste and allows you to walk yourself through the build process beforehand. Reading back, this sounds like I'm looking down on his work, but I'd like to stress that it's the opposite. I'm really impressed with how he did things and the vast, vast majority of what he did was incredibly good craftsmanship. I do these things day in and day out. Kudos to him. He clearly did a lot of research and planned this out very well. I'm sure I'm missing things as well.
@@dovid916 Wow thank yo very much for taking all that time to give me lots of great pointers. Would you happen to be fairly close by me here in Yelm Washington State up in Canada B.C. ? Guy like yourself could do probably 10 times what I can do in a day and much better. What we really need since we have so much stuff and not much storage in our house is a 20x24 shed which I’d be fine if it was a wood floor but of course prefer concrete . My wife has to much craft stuff we need to get out of the house and a bedroom since our son passed away and now our 10 year old grand daughter is living with us. Plus the garage is stuffed and I need to donate a lot of stuff but got hurt and having a hard time getting this done so can clear it out and put one of our cars back in the garage. I was buying shop tools and had to move the car out to keep the stuff nice but need to just get rid of the big stuff like this big band saw ect ect. Just saw your avatar drawing on a kitty. I have 3 snuggled up to me in bed right now and love it. My favorite time of day is the snuggle bed time.
Very nice job! I’m assuming the walls are 10’ high. Just a suggestion if ever doing this again, the lower 1-2’ of he wall assembly is always the most vulnerable to rot or termite infiltration, not sure what climate zone you are in, but if they are 10’ you can rip a 4x8 sheet of pressure treated plywood in half and use that as your bottom course horizontal and then osb vertically. Your only looking at the cost difference of 5-6 sheets of plywood vs osb for a significant future risk reduction…still a great job! Oh yeah, you mentioned spray foaming the roof rafters… there is very little benefit to that with a vented attic and will still need o insulate above the ceiling. If it was a conditioned sealed attic yes, but with soffit and ridge vents, save the money and just insulate the ceiling joists. Look up whatever climate zone you are in and go with that r value. It’s only 850 sf so I’d go with rolls or batts opposed to blow in.
You did a great job. I was a tile and marble contractor so floated cement to make shower walls for the tile or granites which is like what you did basically to stucco your shop which sure is hard work. Looks like you put in a lot of power wall outlets which sure makes it easier when working with power in the shop.
Great work bro.. Iam in CA n planning to build about the same size garage at the back of my house, u gave me the great motivation to do on your own. I have few classic classic car which Iam restoring n not to have a good garage makes it very difficult to work on. I should have done this long time ago when materials were cheap but some time in your life u just have to live n lean. Well am sure u took the permit out because thats what it request over here n depending the ares too. Yes permit n how much it cost u..thx n keep the good work...
The main thing to remember when installing an out-building subpanel is you must install separate ground rods (most AHJ require two) and do not use the bonding screw. You want your EGC and neutral to be separate on a subpanel. The only place to use the bonding screw is at the main service panel. Also, you can save yourself from drywall finishing headaches if you carefully plan your receptacle locations so they do not wind up on a seam. It is much harder for a novice to mud/tape over an outlet and keep the wall flat and smooth. Keep your electrical box cut outs tight by running the cutout blade along the inside edge of the box (not the outside), but angle it slightly away from the box. It will create a "soft" edge that will "pop" right over the box and remain tight around the edges so there is no risk of gaps when you install the covers. This also helps prevent "run away" of the cutting tool due to the rotation of the cutting blade. Not sure if you considered adding a small 1/2 bath (powder room). Plumbing can be tricky, but you'll wish you had it when you need to use the bathroom while covered in saw dust and/or grime. Wives definitely hate it when you track your filth through their clean house. ;-P
Good job buddy. My hats off to you. I wanna do something like this but it is intimidating for sure. My property is not that big so might have to settle for a one car garage but big enough to open the doors on a car and fit around the front and back when the door is closed. Also need space for tools so need a couple of feet for that too. So far I built a carport and made a few mistakes from that but at least I learned. Only thing stopping me now is cash flow😂. I might get permits from city. We’ll see😂
all I'd need is this, no house needed😏 run plumbing to it and is set. I too want to build most off it on my own, but for hooking up the electrical, and roofing, that I'd let PRO handle. then you get the satisfaction of knowing YOU built it.
Great Job,! I just had a 20x35 metal building built in FL....lot of expense and work. I could not imagine doing a building like yours, IF I was younger, I might have tried it. HA HA!!
Thanks for the video! I am currently debating a metal building versus DIY stick built. This is the exact size I was thinking of. Could you run through your average costs for things? That would help a ton! Thanks!!
Im doing a stick built, then instead of siding and shingles, metal. Stick built pole building if you will. Then insulation is easy as well, 16” on center.
it looking great, please upload update videos I like how it's tall your a Pro ?Questions; 10'0" walls¿ I can tell they are 10 foot walls are they slightly longer or shorter? what size wall studs?
This is a nice build. The only thing I would have done differently is to use OSB board on the walls instead of sheet rock, this way it’s easier to hang things on them. Not the prettiest but totally functional. It’s comes to personal preference.
18:05 They make stronger 1/2 drywall that is designed for 24" OC ceilings that won't sag when insulation is installed over it... I feel your pain, I used 5/8 drywall in my garage because I had a second floor and wanted a fire block, 12' 5/8 drywall is heavy, plus my ceilings were over 12' so I had to get the extension for my drywall lift which made it over 5FT tall with a sheet lying flat. I made a jig to which allowed me to step up a sheet a foot at a time to 4 FT so my drywall lift could hook under it and lift it. I also used "blind mark" magnetic template to find and mark the electrical boxes, no measuring and very accurate that I used my oscillating saw to cut out the square openings rather than the rotozip.
I want is something exactly like that but a house on topWith a metal staircase on the side and a little secret access door somewhere between the garage in the room😅 The only thing it’s missing is a pit
Really good job !! I'm wondering why garage doors are almost always on the smaller walls... I'm beginning my garage within few weeks about same size as yours. but two garage doors on the large wall. Did you think about having a second floor or it has never been an option for you ? I still think about this not sure yet, got to decide in the coming days... I'm happy I bought an old international 434, its going to be perfect to dig for preparation of the concrete floor and to lift walls... is there anything you would have made differently ?
I couldn't imagine having a blank canvas like this and not putting in an actual networking rack (even a small one) and running some OM4 between the shop and the house to future proof that connection.
You leave out the last few roofing joists and screw in a platform to hold the entire stack of plywood. Just remember to put posts under it before the forklift puts the stack up there.. Now all the sheeting us up there. Installing the 2nd row first is a breeze. And now you are walking on sheeting while installing the rest.
Nice job. I respect your work ethic and determination. You saved yourself a boat load of money. Just curious about the trusses..did they get inspected as well and were you required to have engineered approved trusses or could you simply build your own?
Part 2 is now up! ua-cam.com/video/0XH7s_3xuNc/v-deo.html There is some great advice people have been giving there and I wish I would have had all that advice BEFORE I build the shop haha. My hope is this videos and the next can help others in their builds as well as reading through all the great comments people have left in the comment section. Lots of good wisdom from people.
good for you doing it yourself, but that conduit install has me facepalming so hard. props bro, few have the gusto you do. also depending on the cable you used, the pvc was pointless. some cables are rated for direct burial
Looks good, though the sheathing on the upper corners of garage doors should be applied horizontally . Two e'lls on corners and T in middle for shear loading.
Great idea for others! I already had a water line close to the shop however I did not put a water line through the foundation which I now regret. I still might put a sink in and just run the water through the side of the shop.
I would not have put the air compressor tubing inside the walls. Plywood horizontal inside at floor level and drywall above, bottom of walls may take a beating and plywood will withstand it better. I like the pressure treated tip too on the outside wall, I'm assuming that will be ripped in the length/8' dimension so the bottom 2 foot is PT? Blocking inside the walls for hanging stuff, but that would require a lot of forethought of what you wanted to mount and where.
I did on the roof it’s just hard to tell on the video. I stripped a price of osb in half and started with that. Then I started with a full one on the next row. Also on the sides the top two feet I did log ways So it did stager the sides a little as well. I did not explain that in the video however if you look closely in some of the clips you can tell.
Is there a reason you buried conduit vs just using UF-B (direct bury) wire? It seems like a lot of extra work for maybe some limited protection or future growth options. Pulling new wire through that looks almost impossible though. You can also get direct bury network cable.
Hopefully you go back and neaten up the wiring in that subpanel. It's only a handful of wires so there is no excuse for leaving it look like a beginner did it (even though you are a beginner, it doesn't have to look like it).
well done man! so what do you do about the gaps between the wall and the ceiling? I could see light coming in was curious if you put mesh or chicken wire or something? Great build im about to start mine - was debating on the trusses too, how much did yours end up costing?
Nice project. Only concern if anything at all is that those nails you put in the shingles were too close to the joints, wich is bad because water can get through them. But besides that everythin gelse looks great, good job.
Does it matter which way you shingle a roof, all videos I've seen is that they do from Left to Right and in your video you went from right to left unless your video is showed reversed or mirrored????
You know what I see that no one else does? It’s the corners of a garage or home. You put up a 3 point light on a flat one sided surface. Figure out how to display a round corner to mount the light so you have coverage both in front of the garage and the side. Your welcome
Totally agree! Its a plum tree and I told my wife I would not kill it if i built the shop... So I did my best to keep it. I will eventually get rid of it once we plant another one.
I can’t believe there aren’t more comments on this! Well done dude! Very impressive!
Very nice job, too many men and women are afraid to tackle something something like this !!!
It’s true!! Thanks for the support!
Before covid, electric PVC was cheap. 1" was about $3 a stick, now, last I seen was $13.
Great job on the building!
Older video, just found your video of building your shop, I Congratulate you on the work you did, you tackled something alot of folks wouldn't attempt to do, you built a very nice shop and I know you are proud of it, hope you enjoy your shop and good luck with all your future projects, SUBSCRIBED.
Awesome job..looks great
I’ve done this many times and it’s rewarding when you’ve done it on your own
Definitely rewarding to look back and see what you have built!
Any job is awesome there, after tornado do it again.
You're my hero dude. Phenomenal job tackling this by yourself for the most part, great inspiration to possibly build something like this in the future.
Lots of work and well done. Congratulations! You've given me some confidence to do some stucco work my self.
Once you get the first run of decking on the roof, and if you have access to a front end loader, you can lift the rest of your decking up even with the edge of the roof. Eliminates running up & down the ladder. Nice job by the way. I built most of my shop by myself too.
Thanks for the video, the moment I saw the conduit size I felt for you. Great job
Great job, love it! I’ll be tackling mine this summer. Your video was very encouraging.
Glad to hear it helped!! I will try and get a part two in a couple weeks. Stay tuned!
As a master carpenter, I could rattle off several things to do that would have been easier and more efficient..(but I won't), I definitely give you tons of credit for taking on a build by yourself!
Nice job!
Jim wish y9u would for us guys that are going to build our own shop, garage or large sheds.
@@puppygadget3189 GC here from Canada. Reading through this comment, keep in mind that for me, spending more on specialized materials saves the customer money through labour, so the perspective is very different. For example, we'd use Hilti bolts instead of J-Bolts in the concrete because it's much faster to drill exactly where you want instead of custom drilling each hole for the plates.
Foundation: Generally you'd want a deeper footing as well as a vapour barrier under the concrete. Adding more gravel under the slab will prevent heaving. Usually what we'd do is dig the footing leaving a small opening for the skid steer to go in, saving you the time of wheelbarrow-ing stuff around. You'd also want a tracked skidsteer (compact track loader) to reduce the wheel ruts of moving around. Having one person with a laser level will speed this process up and also make it more level, saving money on concrete. You can also use depth stakes in the concrete to ensure that the pour/screeding is level or at the grade that you want.
Framing: You want a treated bottom plate. Especially considering that there is no drain inside (which I'd also probably add, but that adds cost). One way to also save some time/money would be to put the windows exactly 4ft and make the 4'x4' up so you can just cut the sheathing in half and use them in other places. Bump the walls to 12ft and you could use a sheet and a half to do the whole wall. Making the building multiples of 4 in general will also simplify many aspects of the build.
Roof: Roofing sucks. There's no single part about it that doesn't suck. However, if you live in a calm area with very little wind, we found that building a little stand (sort of like how he used the ladder to slide them up) to hold the plywood up at grabbing distance while you're on the roof minimizes the amount of time spent going up and down the ladder. Load up the stand with a bunch of sheets and then grab them one by one. As for putting the wrap on the roof, use chalk lines to simplify things and keep them straight. Same with the shingles. The lines on the tar paper or whatever system you use are never quite straight or the same from roll to roll. We mostly use the Zip system for the walls and roof now though.
Exterior: He's right, stucco is incredibly labour intensive. I'd probably just use wood shiplap (pre-finishing before putting it up) or vinyl. Additionally I'd put flashing above the windows to reduce water ingress.
Conduit: I've seen some electricians put large straight sections together and then attach a sponge to a piece of string. The string then attaches to your wires. Vacuum the sponge string through the conduit and then pull the wires through.
Drywalling: Drywalling is unpleasant. I'd recommend using a vapour barrier to prevent moisture from getting in and turning it to a paste. Put some paint on edge of the electrical boxes and press it against it to leave marks exactly where they are. Then cut them out and they'll be bang on. That being said I'd just use 3/8 plywood instead of the drywall, especially in a shop so you can just attach things to the walls easier.
Additional notes: I'd probably have put 4-5 more 240v and much more 120v outlets in there. This allows you to rearrange your big tools or add to them. We also use a CAD software to pre-design everything beforehand. Sketchup Make 2017 is free. This takes a lot of the thinking and problem solving out of the actual construction process. It also minimizes material waste and allows you to walk yourself through the build process beforehand.
Reading back, this sounds like I'm looking down on his work, but I'd like to stress that it's the opposite. I'm really impressed with how he did things and the vast, vast majority of what he did was incredibly good craftsmanship. I do these things day in and day out. Kudos to him. He clearly did a lot of research and planned this out very well. I'm sure I'm missing things as well.
@@dovid916 Wow thank yo very much for taking all that time to give me lots of great pointers. Would you happen to be fairly close by me here in Yelm Washington State up in Canada B.C. ? Guy like yourself could do probably 10 times what I can do in a day and much better. What we really need since we have so much stuff and not much storage in our house is a 20x24 shed which I’d be fine if it was a wood floor but of course prefer concrete .
My wife has to much craft stuff we need to get out of the house and a bedroom since our son passed away and now our 10 year old grand daughter is living with us. Plus the garage is stuffed and I need to donate a lot of stuff but got hurt and having a hard time getting this done so can clear it out and put one of our cars back in the garage. I was buying shop tools and had to move the car out to keep the stuff nice but need to just get rid of the big stuff like this big band saw ect ect.
Just saw your avatar drawing on a kitty. I have 3 snuggled up to me in bed right now and love it. My favorite time of day is the snuggle bed time.
@@dovid916 Holy cow! Thanks for the knowledge bomb! This was a good read.
@@dovid916 Thanks for your tips and discussion.
Got some great neighbors, and awesome job!
Beautiful solo build.
I’m motivated to take on something like this once I have the money.
But overall well done
Very nice job! I’m assuming the walls are 10’ high. Just a suggestion if ever doing this again, the lower 1-2’ of he wall assembly is always the most vulnerable to rot or termite infiltration, not sure what climate zone you are in, but if they are 10’ you can rip a 4x8 sheet of pressure treated plywood in half and use that as your bottom course horizontal and then osb vertically. Your only looking at the cost difference of 5-6 sheets of plywood vs osb for a significant future risk reduction…still a great job!
Oh yeah, you mentioned spray foaming the roof rafters… there is very little benefit to that with a vented attic and will still need o insulate above the ceiling. If it was a conditioned sealed attic yes, but with soffit and ridge vents, save the money and just insulate the ceiling joists. Look up whatever climate zone you are in and go with that r value. It’s only 850 sf so I’d go with rolls or batts opposed to blow in.
That’s a pro-tip, pressure treated plywood on bottom.
Thanks for the tips. This is great advice!
Hello what you paid for all materials and foundation
Great job , we have decided to tear down our home and build a poll barn style house .have been searching UA-cam for ideas and really like your shop .
Why? You won't save any money and won't be able to sell it because of lending problems with pole barn houses.
You did a great job. I was a tile and marble contractor so floated cement to make shower walls for the tile or granites which is like what you did basically to stucco your shop which sure is hard work. Looks like you put in a lot of power wall outlets which sure makes it easier when working with power in the shop.
Great work bro.. Iam in CA n planning to build about the same size garage at the back of my house, u gave me the great motivation to do on your own. I have few classic classic car which Iam restoring n not to have a good garage makes it very difficult to work on. I should have done this long time ago when materials were cheap but some time in your life u just have to live n lean. Well am sure u took the permit out because thats what it request over here n depending the ares too. Yes permit n how much it cost u..thx n keep the good work...
The main thing to remember when installing an out-building subpanel is you must install separate ground rods (most AHJ require two) and do not use the bonding screw. You want your EGC and neutral to be separate on a subpanel. The only place to use the bonding screw is at the main service panel.
Also, you can save yourself from drywall finishing headaches if you carefully plan your receptacle locations so they do not wind up on a seam. It is much harder for a novice to mud/tape over an outlet and keep the wall flat and smooth.
Keep your electrical box cut outs tight by running the cutout blade along the inside edge of the box (not the outside), but angle it slightly away from the box. It will create a "soft" edge that will "pop" right over the box and remain tight around the edges so there is no risk of gaps when you install the covers. This also helps prevent "run away" of the cutting tool due to the rotation of the cutting blade.
Not sure if you considered adding a small 1/2 bath (powder room). Plumbing can be tricky, but you'll wish you had it when you need to use the bathroom while covered in saw dust and/or grime. Wives definitely hate it when you track your filth through their clean house. ;-P
Very impressive! Thanks for sharing your process 👍
Great job, looking forward to more content! 😊
Awesome job. Proud of you!!! Looks great 👍
Nice job. Here in Philippines that was so called Bayanihan meaning people coming to help.
Good job buddy. My hats off to you. I wanna do something like this but it is intimidating for sure. My property is not that big so might have to settle for a one car garage but big enough to open the doors on a car and fit around the front and back when the door is closed. Also need space for tools so need a couple of feet for that too. So far I built a carport and made a few mistakes from that but at least I learned. Only thing stopping me now is cash flow😂. I might get permits from city. We’ll see😂
Looks great! What size windows and and regrets going with horizontal vs vertical opening windows?
Bravo!!
Good source of encouragement to others.
Well done.
Fantastic job over there.... Much respect.
Thanks!
all I'd need is this, no house needed😏
run plumbing to it and is set. I too want to build most off it on my own, but for hooking up the electrical, and roofing, that I'd let PRO handle. then you get the satisfaction of knowing YOU built it.
Great Job,! I just had a 20x35 metal building built in FL....lot of expense and work. I could not imagine doing a building like yours, IF I was younger, I might have tried it. HA HA!!
I need to build one about 25x35 so can I ask how much it ended up costing? Did u do any of the install yourself?
When’s part2?!
Excellent job for a novice. Well done sir.
Thanks! It’s not perfect but I’m happy with it for sure!
nice man, can't wait to build a bigger garage too some day!
I did a beutiful restor on a john deere 110 and i thought that was it untill i seen it was electric. awesome
Great work , for me I would want 28 wide for room around vehicles
Thanks for the video! I am currently debating a metal building versus DIY stick built. This is the exact size I was thinking of. Could you run through your average costs for things? That would help a ton! Thanks!!
Just pour a good foundation and put a Quonset on it. It'll outlast these buildings by 100 years.
Im doing a stick built, then instead of siding and shingles, metal. Stick built pole building if you will. Then insulation is easy as well, 16” on center.
I will try to go over some of these questions in my next video. Thanks for watching
Why didn't you install a vapor barrier on your ceiling since it's going to be insulated. Example 6 mil poly.
looks good. I would of put insulation in the walls of the room for the air compressor, to dampen that noise better.
Was there drawings for this? what is the ceiling height?? Thank yo0u for the video!!
amazing job!!! congrats....
it looking great, please upload update videos I like how it's tall your a Pro ?Questions; 10'0" walls¿ I can tell they are 10 foot walls are they slightly longer or shorter? what size wall studs?
This is a nice build. The only thing I would have done differently is to use OSB board on the walls instead of sheet rock, this way it’s easier to hang things on them. Not the prettiest but totally functional. It’s comes to personal preference.
Vera Nice
Congratulations from Brazil
What was the rough cost to build it ?
18:05 They make stronger 1/2 drywall that is designed for 24" OC ceilings that won't sag when insulation is installed over it... I feel your pain, I used 5/8 drywall in my garage because I had a second floor and wanted a fire block, 12' 5/8 drywall is heavy, plus my ceilings were over 12' so I had to get the extension for my drywall lift which made it over 5FT tall with a sheet lying flat. I made a jig to which allowed me to step up a sheet a foot at a time to 4 FT so my drywall lift could hook under it and lift it. I also used "blind mark" magnetic template to find and mark the electrical boxes, no measuring and very accurate that I used my oscillating saw to cut out the square openings rather than the rotozip.
Good points thanks for the comment. I definitely should have looked Into the magnetic template and oscillating saw for my electrical boxes!
Jigs make EVERYTHING easier
I want is something exactly like that but a house on topWith a metal staircase on the side and a little secret access door somewhere between the garage in the room😅 The only thing it’s missing is a pit
Great job for a DIYer. Almost Nobody DIY builds trusses. Shops are supposed to have metal roofs😀
Really good job !! I'm wondering why garage doors are almost always on the smaller walls... I'm beginning my garage within few weeks about same size as yours. but two garage doors on the large wall. Did you think about having a second floor or it has never been an option for you ? I still think about this not sure yet, got to decide in the coming days... I'm happy I bought an old international 434, its going to be perfect to dig for preparation of the concrete floor and to lift walls... is there anything you would have made differently ?
I couldn't imagine having a blank canvas like this and not putting in an actual networking rack (even a small one) and running some OM4 between the shop and the house to future proof that connection.
Awesome video! How much was the total cost of the project?
Check out part 2 I have it all there.
ua-cam.com/video/0XH7s_3xuNc/v-deo.html
great job, nice shop!!!!
You leave out the last few roofing joists and screw in a platform to hold the entire stack of plywood. Just remember to put posts under it before the forklift puts the stack up there.. Now all the sheeting us up there. Installing the 2nd row first is a breeze. And now you are walking on sheeting while installing the rest.
Looks great. I would've put the sheathing on the inside though, then the drywall would be much stronger and you could hang things nearly anywhere.
How did you cut the concrete?
How much did this cost you to do and how long did it take you to do it? Looks great!
I will answer these questions in my next video! Thanks for following along!
It looks great ! But how much does it cost to build something like that that's the main question ?
@@josscruz2526 About 20k
Nice job. I respect your work ethic and determination. You saved yourself a boat load of money. Just curious about the trusses..did they get inspected as well and were you required to have engineered approved trusses or could you simply build your own?
They were all engineered trusses. I left that to the professionals haha. Like I said that’s about the only thing I did not build myself.
Part 2 is now up!
ua-cam.com/video/0XH7s_3xuNc/v-deo.html
There is some great advice people have been giving there and I wish I would have had all that advice BEFORE I build the shop haha. My hope is this videos and the next can help others in their builds as well as reading through all the great comments people have left in the comment section. Lots of good wisdom from people.
good for you doing it yourself, but that conduit install has me facepalming so hard.
props bro, few have the gusto you do.
also depending on the cable you used, the pvc was pointless. some cables are rated for direct burial
Looks good, though the sheathing on the upper corners of garage doors should be applied horizontally .
Two e'lls on corners and T in middle for shear loading.
Maybe insulate the compressor room walls to reduce noise.
So in the end, how much did it cost to do this?
Great job. Thanks for sharing 👍
Too smart plastering..well done
while running the wire should have also ran a water line, even if not wanting it at the time, that way it would be there for the future
Great idea for others! I already had a water line close to the shop however I did not put a water line through the foundation which I now regret. I still might put a sink in and just run the water through the side of the shop.
I would not have put the air compressor tubing inside the walls. Plywood horizontal inside at floor level and drywall above, bottom of walls may take a beating and plywood will withstand it better. I like the pressure treated tip too on the outside wall, I'm assuming that will be ripped in the length/8' dimension so the bottom 2 foot is PT? Blocking inside the walls for hanging stuff, but that would require a lot of forethought of what you wanted to mount and where.
This video came up on my recommended. Will you have the follow up ready soon?
Great job!
Why didn't you stagger the sheathing???
I did on the roof it’s just hard to tell on the video. I stripped a price of osb in half and started with that. Then I started with a full one on the next row. Also on the sides the top two feet I did log ways So it did stager the sides a little as well. I did not explain that in the video however if you look closely in some of the clips you can tell.
Is there a reason you buried conduit vs just using UF-B (direct bury) wire? It seems like a lot of extra work for maybe some limited protection or future growth options. Pulling new wire through that looks almost impossible though. You can also get direct bury network cable.
Hopefully you go back and neaten up the wiring in that subpanel. It's only a handful of wires so there is no excuse for leaving it look like a beginner did it (even though you are a beginner, it doesn't have to look like it).
Looks good man
Why stucco vs vinyl or steel siding?
Price savings and/or cost of project...?
I will try to go over these questions in my next video.
Nice build and awesome job doing it yourself. 💪🔨 Do you mind tell us where you got your plans? Thx
well done man! so what do you do about the gaps between the wall and the ceiling? I could see light coming in was curious if you put mesh or chicken wire or something?
Great build im about to start mine - was debating on the trusses too, how much did yours end up costing?
Why stucco. How long did it take from start to finish? By yourself, thats one hell of a job!
Check out part 2 I answered these questions.
ua-cam.com/video/0XH7s_3xuNc/v-deo.html
why no insulation ?
I would of raised the floor elevation. Good luck.
Nice video, are you installing insulation on the rafters above the ceiling? Looks great enjoyed the video and maybe one day I’ll build my own shop
Nice project. Only concern if anything at all is that those nails you put in the shingles were too close to the joints, wich is bad because water can get through them. But besides that everythin gelse looks great, good job.
how much would you say it cost you to build
Good job!
Why not spray insulate walls also?
Well done!
Great Job!!
So what is the final cost?
Check out part 2 I have it there.
ua-cam.com/video/0XH7s_3xuNc/v-deo.html
Great video, love the time lapse - what kind of camera are you using for that?
Just a GoPro8. Nothing fancy.
You didn’t put down vapor barrier for the concrete
Does it matter which way you shingle a roof, all videos I've seen is that they do from Left to Right and in your video you went from right to left unless your video is showed reversed or mirrored????
Lateral directions don’t matter but as a right handed person, it’s natural to install things from left to right.
Man U did pretty damn good to have never did any of this😅
What did it end up costing you in total?
I will try to go over this in my next video. Thanks for watching!
No bathroom?
The ridge got installed wrong your supposed to use the 25 year shingles
What brand and size windows did you use?
Got them a HomeDepot and can’t remember the brand. But they are 4’x4’
Use work boots on ladders. Easier on the knees and feet.
I don't want any place smaller than this
You know what I see that no one else does?
It’s the corners of a garage or home. You put up a 3 point light on a flat one sided surface. Figure out how to display a round corner to mount the light so you have coverage both in front of the garage and the side. Your welcome
Why not sheet the walls on the ground? especially if you have a tractor to stand the wall.....I will never understand people who don't do this.
Love it
Part 2?
Yep I will get one out in a couple weeks once the snow has melted down a bit.
Te quedo perfecto
Salute to you
Good job may need to remove the tree
Totally agree! Its a plum tree and I told my wife I would not kill it if i built the shop... So I did my best to keep it. I will eventually get rid of it once we plant another one.