Yes would be a good alternative. Although, I find the dremel incredibly slow as the discs keep shattering, plus I burnt one out during this period from making it do too tough a job!
Did this job 6 months ago. Tried an Irwin bolt remover on one and when that failed I just ground off all the rest. I used a fitting kit from YRM and found the screws a little to long, they hit the crossmember under the rear edge of the floor and wouldn't screw in fully. I knocked the tip of the screw off with the grinder and it all fitted well.
I’ve to change that cross member on my dads td5 in the summer. Lucky for me I have two new doors and about 1k worth of other bits to put on the rusty mess. Ohh and did I mention it just blew the gearbox/transfer case. This video really makes me look forward to the job 😭 thanks will
Good luck! This job makes you realise that there's no "official" way of changing the mid crossmember as it was put on in the factory before the body...
Got it out today. It’s in three peices and I didn’t have to cut it🙈 your method worked a wonder. A lot of corrosion between the aluminum rear seat box and the rear seat supports... typical Landy
I'm going through a rivnut stage right now using them all over the place to get rid of the crappy self tappers big bag of 6mm for £4.50, better way to put the floor back, also consider putting a boat sacrificial zinc anode on somewhere to stop galvanic corrosion between the steel and alloy.
I’m guessing carpets are the problem for rusty screws and seat box corrosion holding water in. Haven’t had much problems with mine with just a rubber mat.
But saying that my whole rear chassis half, fuel tank etc rust out which i’m putting down to more spray from the back heels than the front. Must do more prevention than curing!
@@lrworkshop Also YRM have them as a kit yrmit.co.uk/product/land-rover-defender-series-stainless-steel-2nd-row-floor-fixing-kit/ and you can get them as a bulk item. yrmit.co.uk/product/pk-20-s-s-floor-plate-gearbox-tunnel-screws-washers-lr-defender-series-2-3/ or any decent Fixing company.
That Disco was the best laugh I've had all day 😄
Ah good 👍. Just killing time with a microphone during lockdown!
I tack welded a piece of 10mm square bar to each one and unscrewed them.
The best way I found to remove rusty Bolts/Nuts and Screws is with a set of Burrs for a Dremel with the flexible cable drive attachment fitted.
Yes would be a good alternative. Although, I find the dremel incredibly slow as the discs keep shattering, plus I burnt one out during this period from making it do too tough a job!
Did this job 6 months ago. Tried an Irwin bolt remover on one and when that failed I just ground off all the rest.
I used a fitting kit from YRM and found the screws a little to long, they hit the crossmember under the rear edge of the floor and wouldn't screw in fully. I knocked the tip of the screw off with the grinder and it all fitted well.
Thanks Simon
Hammer saves a lot of Land Rover trubles. 🍻🔨
Nice work with good humour 🙂
You're Aluminium panel work looks in better condition than my '05 TD5
Glad there's someone with a more corroded Defender 😂
@@lrworkshop Not sure about more corroded, but the full extent was revealed when i removed the seat brackets..... The heel board was bolloxed 😕
I’ve to change that cross member on my dads td5 in the summer. Lucky for me I have two new doors and about 1k worth of other bits to put on the rusty mess. Ohh and did I mention it just blew the gearbox/transfer case. This video really makes me look forward to the job 😭 thanks will
Good luck! This job makes you realise that there's no "official" way of changing the mid crossmember as it was put on in the factory before the body...
Got it out today. It’s in three peices and I didn’t have to cut it🙈 your method worked a wonder. A lot of corrosion between the aluminum rear seat box and the rear seat supports... typical Landy
@@odhranquinn8992 hah nice. Mine also came out in 3 pieces but I DID have to cut it!
I'm going through a rivnut stage right now using them all over the place to get rid of the crappy self tappers big bag of 6mm for £4.50, better way to put the floor back, also consider putting a boat sacrificial zinc anode on somewhere to stop galvanic corrosion between the steel and alloy.
I’m guessing carpets are the problem for rusty screws and seat box corrosion holding water in. Haven’t had much problems with mine with just a rubber mat.
I'd replaced these before and they were only about 10 years old! My second row floor is always wet
But saying that my whole rear chassis half, fuel tank etc rust out which i’m putting down to more spray from the back heels than the front. Must do more prevention than curing!
Why didn't the LR factory use stainless items?
More than likely due to cost. More's the pity!
They're not Stilsons but a pair of pipe pliers. Stilsons are similar to an adjustable spanner. Keep up the good work
Thanks Paul. I think i'd picked it up somewhere over the years
Nice work. I assume you will have a pile of stainless to back in.
Cheers. I haven't found the floor screws in stainless, do you know of any?
@@lrworkshop Just realized my 90 rear floor is riveted down. But front floor screws I got from boltdepot.com
@@lrworkshop Also YRM have them as a kit
yrmit.co.uk/product/land-rover-defender-series-stainless-steel-2nd-row-floor-fixing-kit/
and you can get them as a bulk item.
yrmit.co.uk/product/pk-20-s-s-floor-plate-gearbox-tunnel-screws-washers-lr-defender-series-2-3/
or any decent Fixing company.
Nice humour