Great video! A couple suggestions from some of the many mistakes I have made... when trying to fill a solder gap in a 3D piece, put a damp sponge or damp towel under the solder joint. It helps to capture any solder that could drop out. A hot blob of solder dropping onto a cooler piece of glass can have unpleasant consequences! As far as getting a good bright copper finish... it’s so tricky! Copper patina will react with anything that maybe left on the solder. I have had pretty good results by scrubbing the solder lines with copper wool (like fine steel wool but made from copper) that I dip in ammonia. Dry off the residual ammonia and then apply the copper patina heavily with cotton balls. Wipe off any excess patina with paper towel and let it air dry. Don’t use any water to clean your piece after applying the patina. That can really cause the patina to turn dark or black. Then I use just basic old fashioned car wax (carnauba wax) to give the glass and the solder joints a nice shine! Hope these tips help, but unfortunately copper patina is just finicky and will almost always have a more “antiqued” appearance!
Thanks for showing us what happened when you decided to redo the patina!! I love watching the “trial and error” process, as a newbie it really helps me out a lot, thanks!
Your camera angles are spot on. We can really see what you are doing and that is greatly appreciated. Love being able to take the journey with you even when things don't go quite as planned. Sometimes, those moments are the most informative. Very well done. Thank you!
I came here while searching for tips about assembling and soldering a five-sided teardrop terrarium and stayed for the patina. Misery loves company. I too have problems with copper patina - will try out all the tips next time. Thanks, and wonderful, helpful video!
So good. It is beautiful! I love watching you problem solve. It makes me not want to give up on projects as easily as I do! One question. A friend told me I have to grind everything! BTW, I hate grinding. She says the glass has to be fully ground down and matte so the copper tape will stick. Anybody else agree with that? Thanks so much for the PDF. Keep up the great work.
I don't grind everything, that would drive me crazy 😂 I just grind whatever side needs it. New tape should stick to smooth glass easily. I also clean and dry my pieces really well which I think helps a lot too.
Your videos are amazing, I just found you and it’s exactly what I need to start glass work!! Your videos always so informative but never too long, entertaining, and you seem so warm and genuine! I subscribed and I signed up for your PDF starter guide, so excited!!
Really honest and enjoyable video. I'm about to embark on a copper patina job so will use all your tips during the process. Absolutely love your videos. Thanks for uploading them.
I use copper patina on a lot of my pieces. I find that it works best if the solder joints are bright and smooth. If they are dull gray, I burnish them with 0000 grade steel wool to shine them up. I then wash the piece in warm, soapy water and dry it before adding the patina with a soft brush. Keep it wet for several minutes by reapplying it. Finally, finish it off by polishing the piece with liquid polish and buff it to a shine with a clean soft cloth. You'll e happy with the results!
I know it didn't turn out perfect, but I kinda dig the vintage look of it. That's part of the charm of handmade, the imperfections! Thanks for showing all the trial and error. I'm soaking up your videos before I jump in to purchase all the items to see if this is something I want to do. I have built furniture for years and need a hobby that's not quite as hard on me physically, because alas, it sucks getting old. 😕🤣
You're right, it can't all be perfect and that's okay too! Thanks for the reminder that it is hand made after all and just as special as any other project! ♥️
Wanted to make terrariums to sell and boy is this just the exact video I needed. First off didn’t know you could just cut glass, second I realized I could also not use real glass in the first place. Still watched the video though this is awesome.
Neat! I've used copper patina a few times and it does not turn out as shiny as you'd expect. It has a "dull penny" look, which is why I don't use copper patina a whole lot. I recommend that before you tape the pieces together (for 3D projects) tin the copper foil first. Sometimes (speaking from experience) the foil will be visible (regardless of which backing you used) if the project is transparent. This happened to me on a failed 3D project I did a number of years back, I still have it and it is horrendous looking (haven't had time to fix it yet). I didn't tin the foil before I soldered it together, and the foil is very much visible. I was planning on turning the solder black, but never got around to it because it looked really bad. I also recommend when you do the taping together before soldering, look and see if all the pieces are flush. If the gap is small enough you can get away with using copper wire to fill in the gap and soldering over it (this happened on a 3D triforce I did in class). But if the gap is large enough It'd probably be better to cut a new piece rather than struggle with the ill fitting piece. If the gap is large enough solder will drip through onto the inside, which isn't a problem if one side is open. But if it is completely enclosed (my 3D triforce) I had to live with large solder blops on the inside. Again I could have fixed it, but it would have meant more frustration and I decided to take what I learned and do it differently for the next time. Still is really good though, I haven't done many 3D projects yet because of the complexity.
The copper wire is a great idea, thanks. I'm not sure I understand why you tin the copper foil first? If it's clear glass, aren't we expecting the copper foil to show?
I like to tip my piece when I do a box so that the corner is at a 45 degree angle. This allows the solder to fill in the v-notch between the two pieces. Then gravity is working with you. Very good project! I lean it against cardboard or I place it inside a box with crumpled newspaper. When doing patina it's a good idea to shake it since the particles can fall out of solution. Now you may want to apply polish to it.
K! I’m at like 13 minutes - maybe you’ll try this later. But, I’m dying because I have that same copper patina brand (made a bit more recently). Each time I’ve done the patina it looks old and distressed as well! But, if you polish it up and buff it with the polish you have, you get the beautiful shiny copper patina you wanted! (Side note, I’ve noticed that doing a second layer of patina over the 1st, it actually gets darker even with polish...)
Thank you for sharing this! If one planted something in here and watered it, wouldn't the water damage the joins and have the copper foil/solder curl up and separate over time? Also loved your safety video - made sure I was safe yesterday for my first project, which was a glass rectangle!
I think the reason the copper patina turns out the way it does. And you have to polish it to get that shine. Is because patina means it will have that brownish color to it. It may mean something different in the stained glass world but that’s what I have grew up knowing.
Hi nice videos. Do you stick to a certain thickness of glass or does it matter as long as you use the same thickness of glass for the entire project ? Is some glass better than others? Thank you for the easy to watch instructions.
Hey thanks. You'll find most glass is about the same thickness. And I think your entire project should be the same thickness so it's easier to work with. As far as glass quality, that will depend on what you buy. But I haven't been selective about brands and quality yet. Just what looks good and what you like. Hope that helps!
You can use glass from old picture frames, free glass from Craigslist or mirrors. We also sell stained glass packs on the site at www.stainedglassdiy.com/shop
The copper tape helps bond the solder together from piece to piece and that helps strengthen and hold the pieces together. Not sure about just leaving it but it wouldn't have the same look overall.
@@StainedGlassDIY I'm a lot more south, closest is "Legacy Glass Studios", open only M-F, not weekends. "Aanraku Glass Studios" is only M-Th. This is just from Google Maps.
Question for anyone: Is it possible to make a cube with all 6 sides? I'm thinking I should go about it like doing 5 sides soldered inside and out, then just outside solder for the last side. Would this be okay or would it cause issues? 🤔 Black glass, black petina. I don't want a hinged box.
I know you're trying to be thrifty, but dry grinding with a carborundum stone exposes you to silica dust. Once in a while it might be alright, but lung damage is cumulative with such dust. There's a reason people buy wet grinder machines and ring saws. You seem very careful about chemicals, but having glass dust all over your workspace is not good. Other people are learning from you.
(Reads directions): "Use a cloth.." (Meh, I'll use a Q-tip... then a toothbrush... ignore the instructions... then be shocked - SHOCKED!, I say! - when it doesn't turn out quite like I expected it to....") Lol... It sounds like you tried "everything you could" except for following the actual directions. 🤨😂 You know they put those things on there for a reason, right? 😏
Great video! A couple suggestions from some of the many mistakes I have made... when trying to fill a solder gap in a 3D piece, put a damp sponge or damp towel under the solder joint. It helps to capture any solder that could drop out. A hot blob of solder dropping onto a cooler piece of glass can have unpleasant consequences! As far as getting a good bright copper finish... it’s so tricky! Copper patina will react with anything that maybe left on the solder. I have had pretty good results by scrubbing the solder lines with copper wool (like fine steel wool but made from copper) that I dip in ammonia. Dry off the residual ammonia and then apply the copper patina heavily with cotton balls. Wipe off any excess patina with paper towel and let it air dry. Don’t use any water to clean your piece after applying the patina. That can really cause the patina to turn dark or black. Then I use just basic old fashioned car wax (carnauba wax) to give the glass and the solder joints a nice shine! Hope these tips help, but unfortunately copper patina is just finicky and will almost always have a more “antiqued” appearance!
Thank you thank you! These are great tips for all of us. I'll be sure to try them out next time. Cheers! 🤙🙏
Thanks! I thought it was just me!
This is so helpful! Thank you!
Thanks for showing us what happened when you decided to redo the patina!! I love watching the “trial and error” process, as a newbie it really helps me out a lot, thanks!
Duuuude THANK YOU! Been looking for for a glass terrarium for some orchids. Everything I like is way too expensive. NOW I can make my own!
Same!
Your camera angles are spot on. We can really see what you are doing and that is greatly appreciated. Love being able to take the journey with you even when things don't go quite as planned. Sometimes, those moments are the most informative. Very well done. Thank you!
Love your videos - it's great to see what to do when things don't go according to plan. Brilliant!
This is one of the most helpful videos I've found on UA-cam. Thank you! Your work is so beautiful.
I came here while searching for tips about assembling and soldering a five-sided teardrop terrarium and stayed for the patina. Misery loves company. I too have problems with copper patina - will try out all the tips next time. Thanks, and wonderful, helpful video!
So good. It is beautiful! I love watching you problem solve. It makes me not want to give up on projects as easily as I do! One question. A friend told me I have to grind everything! BTW, I hate grinding. She says the glass has to be fully ground down and matte so the copper tape will stick. Anybody else agree with that? Thanks so much for the PDF. Keep up the great work.
I don't grind everything, that would drive me crazy 😂 I just grind whatever side needs it. New tape should stick to smooth glass easily. I also clean and dry my pieces really well which I think helps a lot too.
this video gave me some confidence to go and try the copper patina again. at least i know i am not the only one struggling with it.
Hehe I'm determined to perfect it so stay tuned!
I got so much respect for what you’re doing, don’t stop!! Having creative hobbies is so much fun 😊
Thanks for the love and I couldn't agree more! 💯🙏
Super cool! I’ve been looking to create a teeny tiny tissue box dispenser and thinking about going this route 😊
I have been a stained glass artist for many years , but always still learning..loved this video x
Your videos are amazing, I just found you and it’s exactly what I need to start glass work!! Your videos always so informative but never too long, entertaining, and you seem so warm and genuine! I subscribed and I signed up for your PDF starter guide, so excited!!
Excited for you to start! 😁
Just ordered beginners kit and I'm SO EXCITED!! Maybe I need some copper patina too...
Your videos are great and easy to follow. Genius. The guide is fantastic
Thank you Gail, I appreciate the feedback!
I really enjoyed the antique tks a lot
Really honest and enjoyable video. I'm about to embark on a copper patina job so will use all your tips during the process. Absolutely love your videos. Thanks for uploading them.
I've got updated tips for the copper patina here! ua-cam.com/video/9Q97JNy0fyU/v-deo.html Hope it works well for you!
I use copper patina on a lot of my pieces. I find that it works best if the solder joints are bright and smooth. If they are dull gray, I burnish them with 0000 grade steel wool to shine them up. I then wash the piece in warm, soapy water and dry it before adding the patina with a soft brush. Keep it wet for several minutes by reapplying it. Finally, finish it off by polishing the piece with liquid polish and buff it to a shine with a clean soft cloth. You'll e happy with the results!
Thanks for the tip! 👍
I just read all the comments 😳
Got to the end and was like, "where's the rest?"
There are so many great tips! 🤩
I specialize in making this kind of products. I know that the last piece of welding is the easiest to misalign.
I know it didn't turn out perfect, but I kinda dig the vintage look of it. That's part of the charm of handmade, the imperfections! Thanks for showing all the trial and error. I'm soaking up your videos before I jump in to purchase all the items to see if this is something I want to do. I have built furniture for years and need a hobby that's not quite as hard on me physically, because alas, it sucks getting old. 😕🤣
You're right, it can't all be perfect and that's okay too! Thanks for the reminder that it is hand made after all and just as special as any other project! ♥️
Still a really cool looking box.
I love your video! Thanks!
Wanted to make terrariums to sell and boy is this just the exact video I needed. First off didn’t know you could just cut glass, second I realized I could also not use real glass in the first place. Still watched the video though this is awesome.
I like the mistakes and problem solving too. Not just showing you make it perfectly. Helpful when you don’t know anything.
really cool
beautiful work,i dnt know how i ended up here looking for a insect box display but i got into watching the whole video lol this is awesome👌😃
😂
I love it, love the finish, can't wait to have a go, thank you
Amazing video thank you so much !! 👏🏼😍
Glad you liked it, thanks!
Looking great. Can’t wait to figure out what the issue was with the copper patina.
I've got a new bottle to try for next time to eliminate all variables so stay tuned!
I love it!
Cool 👏
Neat! I've used copper patina a few times and it does not turn out as shiny as you'd expect. It has a "dull penny" look, which is why I don't use copper patina a whole lot.
I recommend that before you tape the pieces together (for 3D projects) tin the copper foil first. Sometimes (speaking from experience) the foil will be visible (regardless of which backing you used) if the project is transparent.
This happened to me on a failed 3D project I did a number of years back, I still have it and it is horrendous looking (haven't had time to fix it yet). I didn't tin the foil before I soldered it together, and the foil is very much visible. I was planning on turning the solder black, but never got around to it because it looked really bad.
I also recommend when you do the taping together before soldering, look and see if all the pieces are flush. If the gap is small enough you can get away with using copper wire to fill in the gap and soldering over it (this happened on a 3D triforce I did in class). But if the gap is large enough It'd probably be better to cut a new piece rather than struggle with the ill fitting piece. If the gap is large enough solder will drip through onto the inside, which isn't a problem if one side is open. But if it is completely enclosed (my 3D triforce) I had to live with large solder blops on the inside. Again I could have fixed it, but it would have meant more frustration and I decided to take what I learned and do it differently for the next time.
Still is really good though, I haven't done many 3D projects yet because of the complexity.
The copper wire is a great idea, thanks. I'm not sure I understand why you tin the copper foil first? If it's clear glass, aren't we expecting the copper foil to show?
@@StainedGlassDIY I've sent you an email explaining in detail what I meant in my earlier comment.
I like it!
I like to tip my piece when I do a box so that the corner is at a 45 degree angle. This allows the solder to fill in the v-notch between the two pieces. Then gravity is working with you. Very good project! I lean it against cardboard or I place it inside a box with crumpled newspaper. When doing patina it's a good idea to shake it since the particles can fall out of solution. Now you may want to apply polish to it.
Great tips, thank you!! I will try the polish now. ❤️
What thickness of glass did you use? Great video!
how it does against water? i am looking to use this for a moss garden... by the way great enclosure mate i love it
Obrigado por compartilhar seu conhecimento sigo na saga de encontrar produtos similares aqui no Brasil
very informative
K! I’m at like 13 minutes - maybe you’ll try this later. But, I’m dying because I have that same copper patina brand (made a bit more recently). Each time I’ve done the patina it looks old and distressed as well! But, if you polish it up and buff it with the polish you have, you get the beautiful shiny copper patina you wanted! (Side note, I’ve noticed that doing a second layer of patina over the 1st, it actually gets darker even with polish...)
P.s. the box looks great!
Ooh I will give it a polish and see! Thanks for sharing these tips!! 🙏❤️
Thank you for sharing this! If one planted something in here and watered it, wouldn't the water damage the joins and have the copper foil/solder curl up and separate over time?
Also loved your safety video - made sure I was safe yesterday for my first project, which was a glass rectangle!
I think the reason the copper patina turns out the way it does. And you have to polish it to get that shine. Is because patina means it will have that brownish color to it. It may mean something different in the stained glass world but that’s what I have grew up knowing.
You can use furniture polish over the patina then shine
Will try, thanks!
Does it matter what copper foil you use for doing patina ?
Only thing I would have added is to hit the solder with 1500 grit wet sand paper to smooth it out a lot better before the patina
Great video. Im thinking of making same idea for a small flower vase. How narrow could the neck be 2 inches?. Cheers bud
Thanks Dave. Could be smaller but the iron is what limits the work. Plus cleaning it will be difficult. Probably best to avoid long and narrow.
This may be a stupid question but do you measure the side on the outside of base or on top of basr?
If you cut the squares all the same size, then you can make them any size you want. Are you referring to when you cut the glass?
Looks very cool. I'd like it better if it was mine!🤭
😆
Hi nice videos. Do you stick to a certain thickness of glass or does it matter as long as you use the same thickness of glass for the entire project ?
Is some glass better than others?
Thank you for the easy to watch instructions.
Hey thanks. You'll find most glass is about the same thickness. And I think your entire project should be the same thickness so it's easier to work with. As far as glass quality, that will depend on what you buy. But I haven't been selective about brands and quality yet. Just what looks good and what you like. Hope that helps!
Where do you get the glass from?
You can use glass from old picture frames, free glass from Craigslist or mirrors. We also sell stained glass packs on the site at www.stainedglassdiy.com/shop
No se filtra líquido a través de la cinta de cobre???!
What do you clean the glass with before you put the foil on
Ali D Just with regular tap water and dry
Alcohol works best, it removes anything on the glass to help the foil stick best 😄
Great tip thanks!
Is there a chance that due to the kind of glass it can get broken?
This one is thinner so it could crack easier but regular stained glass is pretty strong.
How does the glass not break from the heat difference from the soldering iron??
It can crack if you heat it up too long at one spot
Thank you!
Can you please tell me whats the width of this copper tape?
Min 2:31
I really like your glass cutter, what brand is it? I'd like to get one so that I can get back into stained glass. Thanks for all your tips...
I saw it in amazon
I use this one here amzn.to/2VfHLHS
How thick is the glass?
It's about 2mm, just some clear picture frame glass I believe
Hello, sorry for muy english, how many watts Is the soldering iron recommended for this type of work?
I use a 67W iron so anything above that should be good but not all irons are made the same!
Hi, is it okay if I leave some of the copper tape without soldering on it, or do i need to solder each and every copper tape?
The copper tape helps bond the solder together from piece to piece and that helps strengthen and hold the pieces together. Not sure about just leaving it but it wouldn't have the same look overall.
Please write me the name of the glass cutting tool.
this is the toyo cutter i use geni.us/toyoTC21custom
Hi great video. I live in the San Francisco area where do you buy your glass? I am looking for glass shops to support locally.
I buy from Cradle of the Sun and Stained Glass Garden. Buying local first is great!
Loved this video. Isn't "patina" supposed to be characteristic of old? I like the old, "patina'd" look. I can't wait to try making a terrarium.
Hey where do you buy glass in the bay area?
The two places I've found are Cradle of the Sun in SF and Stained Glass Garden in Berkeley. Lots of good selections at both locations. ✌️
@@StainedGlassDIY Sweet thanks! They are open on weekends! There's a bunch that are not.
What other stores do you know of, I'm curious?
@@StainedGlassDIY I'm a lot more south, closest is "Legacy Glass Studios", open only M-F, not weekends. "Aanraku Glass Studios" is only M-Th. This is just from Google Maps.
@@frank26080115 Oh good to know
Question for anyone: Is it possible to make a cube with all 6 sides?
I'm thinking I should go about it like doing 5 sides soldered inside and out, then just outside solder for the last side. Would this be okay or would it cause issues? 🤔
Black glass, black petina.
I don't want a hinged box.
I think it could work and should be strong. So what are you putting inside it??
Hello, what is the thickness of the glass ? It is 2mm or 3mm ? Thank you :)
It’s closer to 3mm
Haha..the Nirvana cut...lol
😂😂 you got that one
Couldn't you put on a final layer of copper tape.
Excellent video. Do keep music sound level low, its way too high.
Thank you 😊
It could be the oils on your skin that got in the way of the patina
I agree, using gloves now
I know you're trying to be thrifty, but dry grinding with a carborundum stone exposes you to silica dust. Once in a while it might be alright, but lung damage is cumulative with such dust. There's a reason people buy wet grinder machines and ring saws. You seem very careful about chemicals, but having glass dust all over your workspace is not good. Other people are learning from you.
Thanks for your knowledge. I'm telling ppl to use it wet now.
(Reads directions): "Use a cloth.." (Meh, I'll use a Q-tip... then a toothbrush... ignore the instructions... then be shocked - SHOCKED!, I say! - when it doesn't turn out quite like I expected it to....") Lol... It sounds like you tried "everything you could" except for following the actual directions. 🤨😂 You know they put those things on there for a reason, right? 😏
Where did you source the glass?