This was the video that made me realize I needed a bigger soldering iron lol, mines good for little electronics but my solder was wider than my iron itself
Bravo for pointing out that there are no lead fumes in soldering! I've heard a lot of people who were worried about that, and my high-school chemistry somehow didn't convince them that I knew what I was talking about. :-)
Maybe you should listen to the video again. He addresses the fumes from soldering.....not to breath it and that he wears a mask . did you miss that part?
Loving these videos Derek! Ive painted acrylics on perspex but id love to try what you do. Just a shame there seems to be a need for investment in the likes of a kiln. However i really should try a taster course at the very least. Really appreciate the quality of your work and teaching skills. Top drawer!
Could you give some general information about what to look for in a soldering iron. I see lots of information about techniques and which brands are best, but not generic requirements for the soldering iron.
Hello Shirley, I can only give you information on the particular soldering irons featured in the video as these have been tested by me. Can’t really add much to the generic requirements question about all soldering irons unfortunately.
@@DerekHuntArtist hi my son who makes 3D printed objects wants me to build a stained glass piece with a 3D object. Is it even possible? I’ve never seen it done before. Have you? Any ideas? TIA
Hi Jim, I do wire brush the lead if it needs cleaning before soldering. Older lead can oxidise so needs to be scrubbled clean to get a good joint with the flux. New lead doesn’t need to be cleaned.
Derek, is that a Hakko temp control iron you're using at the beginning? I've had the usual Weller 100w @ 6mm for years, and now I've returned to st. glass after many years, I think my Weller is way too hot. It turns 50/50 to water, and other sized bits are like pulling teeth to find. Am I better off investing in the Hakko to have temperature adjustment for each solder and came/foil? Also, I've seen opposing advice on soldering foil. One says to use freer flowing 60/40 to gap fill, then round off with 50/50. The other says exactly the opposite. How do we tell who's accurate? Your tip cleaner pad seems to indicate on the package that it's not for lead. Am I misreading it, before I purchase one?
Hi Niall, I would suggest you try the Hakko iron as the temperature controller is great for regularing the tip heat when using different solders. The best thing is to buy a couple of sticks of different solder types and try them out. I've never liked 50/50 solder as I find it doesn't flow as well as I want, but other folks seem to like it. Try it out for yourself and see what works for you. 🙂
Thanks, Derek. As I've said, even the harder 50/50 flows TOO well with my Weller. Perhaps that's best consigned to when I return to lead came. Meanwhile, I'll have to bite the bullet and buy a Hakko for foil work. Cheers.
@@DerekHuntArtist I’m so glad for you, life deals hard cards sometimes and it takes real internal strength to overcome these. Keep doing what you do, you’re a wonderful inspiration 🙏
Thanks for great video, I'm following this to the letter using the same materials but the lead came keeps melting almost instantly , i have the same soldering iron , is there any way it could be getting too hot, its about 5 years old ? Cheers for all the great content.
I’m working on a 38x46inch window. I used to use the nodays glaze glue but now I can’t find any more. So my question is, is solder alone strong enough to support itself.
Hello Derek! Thank you for so sharply detailed video! My question is not directly about the soldering. I work with copper foil and the problem is that when I apply a patina for solder it damages hardly the glass paints where it touches it. But I still want to see the soldering lines black and not silver shiny. So I think the patina for lead must work well and without damaging the paints since I see that the lead on your panel is blackened and the paintings are safe. Since the solder contains 40% of lead it can work. So tell me please what patina do you use for your lead cames? Thank you very much!
Hello, I use a special polish used with wood burning stoves to help keep them black. Its name in the UK is Grate Polish and can be found on Amazon here Hotspot HS201120 Black Stove and Grate Polish 75 ml amzn.eu/d/8FE5Bh7. There are different versions available and they work very well when you wish to blacken the lead cames. Hope that helps 🙏🙂
Thank you! Have you had such a problem with acids damaging the fired glass paints? How did you patinated the Tiffany styled stained glasses with glass paints? Are Reusch paints or paints you use in your projects acid resistable or not? Thank you one more time!
@@DerekHuntArtist Thank you. I live in California and would be working outside alot due to our weather being warmer most of the year. But yes good ventilation is a must.
Thank you Derek, Great video as always. Is that piece you are working on for the hospital? It is beautiful. It is wonderful to see you looking so well. Cheers from a foggy Mendocino Coast.
This is somewhat unrelated to the topic of the video, but is there a general rule for when your should use foil versus lead came? I assume it varies based on artist preference and needed strength of the art piece, but I could definitely be wrong.
I took one workshop where i learned to make a 8"x8" foil project, made perfect solder joins then. but since then, ive tried it 50 times or so, and it looks very bad. watched many videos, still dont know know why i cant get it correct. first thing im doing this morning is retrying. i went to bed last night a little concerned for myself since i keep trying and not getting it, but hopefully i figure it out soon!!
I have used 50/50 and 60/40 but really have not noticed any real difference when working with them. I am planning to make my new workshop in a covered water tank or basin that I'll be restoring as my next restauration project and I'll install one of those commercial kitchen extraction hoods above my worktable.
If you have two came lines meeting a main line on different sides, for best practice do you solder across the main line to join all 3 pieces? Or just solder the two side joints? Understanding that art is art and sometimes you just go with the flow and modify your approach, I really want to respect the art form and do best practices as often as possible. :D Also... for those of us with no access to classes, is there a book on traditional methods or a good modern method book/resource for beginners? I'm at least a 4 hour drive to the nearest hobby level class which only offers a "date night" class.
As a general rule, solder each joint with a little flat button solder, all the interconnecting lines should be soldered together. Best bet for books is to have a look on Amazon 🙂
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Visit my Amazon shop for tools and materials www.amazon.co.uk/shop/derekhuntartist
What a great tutorial. You make cutting glass so clear and doable. Thank you so much.
You are so welcome! Thanks 🙏🙂
This was the video that made me realize I needed a bigger soldering iron lol, mines good for little electronics but my solder was wider than my iron itself
lol!
Bravo for pointing out that there are no lead fumes in soldering! I've heard a lot of people who were worried about that, and my high-school chemistry somehow didn't convince them that I knew what I was talking about. :-)
Maybe you should listen to the video again. He addresses the fumes from soldering.....not to breath it and that he wears a mask . did you miss that part?
He’s also using a fume extractor as well as a respirator
@@catherinem2692that was for the flux fumes not lead ones.
@@susanbernard8612You missed it. It's not the lead or solder, it's the Flux that creates a toxic fume.
Loving these videos Derek! Ive painted acrylics on perspex but id love to try what you do. Just a shame there seems to be a need for investment in the likes of a kiln. However i really should try a taster course at the very least. Really appreciate the quality of your work and teaching skills. Top drawer!
Thank so much - it would be great to see you on a course when the time is right for you!🙏🙂
currently learning to solder together stained glass for my grandmothers christmas present, should have done this sooner...
Good luck 👍🏼
Learned much with this information ! Thanks
Glad you found the video helpful 🙏🙂
Finally someone who doesnt say ' sodder' .love the good explanations answering all the whys
Thanks Jo!🙏🙂
Brilliant!!! Thank you so much for sharing this thorough and detailed information. x
Glad it was helpful!
@@DerekHuntArtist so helpful!!! thank you very much x
Brilliant - learnt a lot
Awesome!
Thank you so much for your content!
My pleasure!
Could you give some general information about what to look for in a soldering iron. I see lots of information about techniques and which brands are best, but not generic requirements for the soldering iron.
Hello Shirley, I can only give you information on the particular soldering irons featured in the video as these have been tested by me. Can’t really add much to the generic requirements question about all soldering irons unfortunately.
Immediately after posting this comment, I came across your soldering iron video. Thank you so much. It really helped.
I have a question about incorporating 3D printed objects with stained glass
What’s your question?
@@DerekHuntArtist hi my son who makes 3D printed objects wants me to build a stained glass piece with a 3D object. Is it even possible? I’ve never seen it done before. Have you? Any ideas? TIA
I'm not really sure what you mean exactly. Which part will be 3D printed?@@matildaandgabe
So helpful! Thank you.
Glad you found value in the video 🙏🙂
Really great.
Thank you!
Good video! I noticed you don’t use a wire brush to clean the lead. I was told there is tinning on the lead????
Hi Jim, I do wire brush the lead if it needs cleaning before soldering. Older lead can oxidise so needs to be scrubbled clean to get a good joint with the flux. New lead doesn’t need to be cleaned.
Derek, is that a Hakko temp control iron you're using at the beginning? I've had the usual Weller 100w @ 6mm for years, and now I've returned to st. glass after many years, I think my Weller is way too hot. It turns 50/50 to water, and other sized bits are like pulling teeth to find. Am I better off investing in the Hakko to have temperature adjustment for each solder and came/foil?
Also, I've seen opposing advice on soldering foil. One says to use freer flowing 60/40 to gap fill, then round off with 50/50. The other says exactly the opposite. How do we tell who's accurate?
Your tip cleaner pad seems to indicate on the package that it's not for lead. Am I misreading it, before I purchase one?
Hi Niall, I would suggest you try the Hakko iron as the temperature controller is great for regularing the tip heat when using different solders. The best thing is to buy a couple of sticks of different solder types and try them out. I've never liked 50/50 solder as I find it doesn't flow as well as I want, but other folks seem to like it. Try it out for yourself and see what works for you. 🙂
Thanks, Derek. As I've said, even the harder 50/50 flows TOO well with my Weller. Perhaps that's best consigned to when I return to lead came. Meanwhile, I'll have to bite the bullet and buy a Hakko for foil work. Cheers.
@@niallwildwoode7373 you're welcome
Hola!!! muy util , a mi se me derretía el perfil de plomo en mi primer vitral, gracias por los productos para limpiar la punta, :)
You’re welcome!🙏🙂
Gracias !
Thanks derek x
You are so welcome Jo
@@DerekHuntArtist hope you are keeping well and continuing to enjoy life 😘
@@jorose6093 yes keeping well thank you. Sending best wishes to you too!
@@DerekHuntArtist I’m so glad for you, life deals hard cards sometimes and it takes real internal strength to overcome these. Keep doing what you do, you’re a wonderful inspiration 🙏
@@jorose6093 😀
Thanks for great video, I'm following this to the letter using the same materials but the lead came keeps melting almost instantly , i have the same soldering iron , is there any way it could be getting too hot, its about 5 years old ? Cheers for all the great content.
Try adding a thermo voltage controller to help reduce the power to the iron, or try switching the iron off to make sure it doesn’t get too hot. 🙂
@@DerekHuntArtist Thanks for your advice, I'll give it a go. :)
I’m working on a 38x46inch window. I used to use the nodays glaze glue but now I can’t find any more. So my question is, is solder alone strong enough to support itself.
Sorry, but I don't understand your question... what is nodays glaze glue?
You mentioned the melting point of each but is that the actual temperature you use to solder with or do you go higher for any particular reason?
Not quite sure what you mean …
Hello Derek! Thank you for so sharply detailed video! My question is not directly about the soldering. I work with copper foil and the problem is that when I apply a patina for solder it damages hardly the glass paints where it touches it. But I still want to see the soldering lines black and not silver shiny. So I think the patina for lead must work well and without damaging the paints since I see that the lead on your panel is blackened and the paintings are safe. Since the solder contains 40% of lead it can work. So tell me please what patina do you use for your lead cames? Thank you very much!
Hello, I use a special polish used with wood burning stoves to help keep them black. Its name in the UK is Grate Polish and can be found on Amazon here Hotspot HS201120 Black Stove and Grate Polish 75 ml amzn.eu/d/8FE5Bh7. There are different versions available and they work very well when you wish to blacken the lead cames. Hope that helps 🙏🙂
Thank you! Have you had such a problem with acids damaging the fired glass paints? How did you patinated the Tiffany styled stained glasses with glass paints? Are Reusch paints or paints you use in your projects acid resistable or not? Thank you one more time!
Where did you get your leather
apron?
I found a leather worker online who made it for me 🙏🙂
How do you use Welder W101D, when it has 400C temperaturę and lead csme melting at 324C?
According to Google lead vaporises at 482 C and the maximum temperature of the Weller W101D is 370 C
@@DerekHuntArtist It is not about vaporization , but melting .Melting point of Lead is exactly 327.5°C.
If the fumes from the Flux is the issue?. Do you think using the Tallow Stick is a healthier option? Thank you
Good question. I would imagine its important to have good ventilation regardless of the type of flux you are using
@@DerekHuntArtist Thank you. I live in California and would be working outside alot due to our weather being warmer most of the year. But yes good ventilation is a must.
If you're using the tallow instead if a chemical flux, are the fumes still as nasty?
Not sure …. Best to wear a protective mask either way.
I believe that the 7 on your Weller tip refers to the fact that the iron will heat up to 700F and hold at that temp and not go higher.
Thank you Derek, Great video as always. Is that piece you are working on for the hospital? It is beautiful. It is wonderful to see you looking so well. Cheers from a foggy Mendocino Coast.
Hi Donna, thanks for your kind words. The piece I was working on is for a school. More info on that project soon !
This is somewhat unrelated to the topic of the video, but is there a general rule for when your should use foil versus lead came? I assume it varies based on artist preference and needed strength of the art piece, but I could definitely be wrong.
Well, copper foil is used more for Tiffany Lamps and pieces not subject to the weather. If it’s made for outside then lead is better 👍🏼🙂
@@DerekHuntArtist thanks!
@@DerekHuntArtist is there one that you tend to prefer to use?
@@jacobaskeroth7474 yes, I almost exclusively use lead rather than copper foil. 🙂
I took one workshop where i learned to make a 8"x8" foil project, made perfect solder joins then. but since then, ive tried it 50 times or so, and it looks very bad. watched many videos, still dont know know why i cant get it correct. first thing im doing this morning is retrying. i went to bed last night a little concerned for myself since i keep trying and not getting it, but hopefully i figure it out soon!!
Good luck !
I have used 50/50 and 60/40 but really have not noticed any real difference when working with them. I am planning to make my new workshop in a covered water tank or basin that I'll be restoring as my next restauration project and I'll install one of those commercial kitchen extraction hoods above my worktable.
Fernando, I have found the 50/50 to be more sticky and difficult to work with because it needs more heat to melt. Prefer 60/40 as it flows better 🙂
If you have two came lines meeting a main line on different sides, for best practice do you solder across the main line to join all 3 pieces? Or just solder the two side joints? Understanding that art is art and sometimes you just go with the flow and modify your approach, I really want to respect the art form and do best practices as often as possible. :D
Also... for those of us with no access to classes, is there a book on traditional methods or a good modern method book/resource for beginners? I'm at least a 4 hour drive to the nearest hobby level class which only offers a "date night" class.
As a general rule, solder each joint with a little flat button solder, all the interconnecting lines should be soldered together. Best bet for books is to have a look on Amazon 🙂
Thank 🙏 ( 🤔Is it possible to solder with tin 33% in your opinion )
Not tried 33% tin solder, usually it’s 60/40 tin/lead 💕