I love how many times you went over that you knew what the problem was, and even stated what it was, yet everyone still tries telling you what to do or why it happened.... I say good job with dealing and explaining what happened here. Very informative and helpful. Thank you for being transparent with your work through the ups and downs and helping others get into the hobby. Your friend Arden
Great job!! I got the same reaction with Gravity Paint. The solvent in the paint are very strong and attack certain plastic, (all Aoshima kit for me). Now i put 2-3 thin coats of primer, same as you Tamiya 50/50 and little sanding in between coats. I leave it dry for 2 days minimum. I dont want to mix the solvent. Many thin coats as needed to cover perfectly. I got nice result since i do this.
I've been watching your channel for several years I believe. Now I bought an airbrush and some polishing materials and finally ready to try to achieve at least some bit of car body finish you do! Been modelling only armour and other 'dirty' and not so demanding things.
You did a nice job in spite of the reaction by the plastic. It can be hard to get super fine silver finish. Best bang for the buck is TS-17 in my opinion. 3 mist coats, 1 one wet coat, then wet sand the color coat, and add one more wet color coat before the clear. That gets the metal flakes to lay down super smooth. The most realistic silver paint I've seen though is by using Testors Aluminum Metalizer, 2k clear would be necessary to give it strong protection though.
Loved the blooper at the end. Sucks that the problems persisted, but way to try and work them out and push through. Can't wait to see the finished product. Take care, you friend Arden.
I thought I was the onely one strugling with paint, glad to see that a pro has the same issues, learning lot here ! 👍 For sanding I just glue different grids of sandpaper to popsicle sticks or trips of foam board, works like a charm. Every thing on a budget, me being Dutch, don't judge....😁
Hi! I think the problem was a reaction of the primer with the paint. If it had been the plastic, it would have been "damaged". When removing the paint, it seems to be fine. I'm sure using our primer or a 2K primer, you wouldn't have had that problem. Glad to see you were able to fix it! Great job!!
Oooh I had that exact same issue in my huayra build with zero paints. I also used Tamiya primers on that kit. Never a problem mixing tamiya primer with zero paints on anything else I’ve built. I was so confused how I messed up that aoshima kit but now I know haha
I had similar issues painting my Huracan Performante in Splash Blu Cepheus over Tamiya primer; I had reworked the sides so they had a lot of primer and thus zero etching, the hood and the roof however had less primer and caused etching which was quite "fun" to fix. Once plastic has etched it will never stop unless you use some kind of a sealer between the plastic and primer coats, or in between primer coats. I just started the Aoshima LBWK Huracan and will be sure to test my primer/color before going all-in on wet coats.
My molded-in-red LBWK Huracan is now covered in Splash Viola 30; from my previous issues w/crazing on the Performante I've been applying more primer and have had no issues. This one got several coats of Mr. Surfacer gray to refine panel lines, and a few coats of Tamiya base white. The Viola 30 went down smooth as silk with zero crazing. Aoshima's plastic seems more sensitive than other brands.
Nice save there Tom, hurts when things start having a mind of their own in our hobby but you managed to correct it quite well there. Looking forward for the next part 👍🏼👍🏼
Kan gebeuren dat het wat tegen zit! Mijn ervaring met paint remover van Tamiya is dat je daar ook mee moet oppassen omdat dit ook vrij agressief spul is.
I had the same problem with the Huayra kit but switched to tamiya primer and there gloss aluminum spray paint and was fine,nice save though looking forward to the rest of the build
Great work and nice save. On wierd plastic with these ghost seam issues I try using an acrylic primer such as Stynelrez / UMP (same thing) for about 3 coats and then let it cure for 24 hours before painting. The acrylic forms a barrier between the lacquer and the plastic. I'm curious if they are using recycle plastics now that might be causing this? I've seen it on a Revell kit as well.
Another suggestion would be to actually seal the plastic with a sealer/primer. We had to do that back in the 90s when spraying real automotive lacquer paints. I'm not sure a 2K clear today is designed to seal anything though. Go to the auto parts store and get a can of Krylon primer/sealer. My first thought was the plastic in the kit is made up of many types of plastic from the recyclers. Not virgin plastic. We seen this from new kits a few years ago that are re-issued and compared them to the original kit plastic. There was a huge difference. Research showed us the companies are buy the cheaper recycled plastic to make their kits.
I don’t think 2k clear would be the solution. But 2k primer. It indeed seems like a mix of plastics as some parts have worse reaction then others. And some even have no reaction at all. A 2k primer would be a good base to start of with on the next kit just to give it a try.
Weer mooi balen. Ik had het laatst ook met een monogram bouwdoos. En neem aan dat je het plastiek goed schoon gemaakt had. De paint remover van Carson is ook goed. En werkt op de zelfde manier. Kost rond de 10 euro dacht ik zo
I'll have to try that Tamiya paint stripper. I have a Fujimi Porsche that had the exact same issue. No amount of sanding has been able to solve the issue, nor has my usual paint stripping method. So it's been back in the box for a while.
I've had a similar problem on a Tamiya kit using the Tamiya primer, once I changed the primer the problem disappeared. The paint I was using is from a local manufacturer ( it's hard to find scale modeling supplies in my country, brands like Zero Paints or Streetblisters are not available here ).
Had the same problem on the Aoshima Pagani Huayra, seems more people have this problem so it looks like the plastic of Aoshima's models is part of the problem.
When you were unboxing this you mentioned the lock cylinder detail on the doors. How do preserve detail like this with all of the layers of primer, paint and 2k clear ?
It could be release agent on the plastic, but I always thought you washed your kits before paint so the only thing I can think of is after sanding the primer smooth putting a second primer coat on and sanding back smooth again so it's a little thicker and then once thats dried off applying the colour coat. I wonder if it would react the same way to Tamiya LP paints, if it doesn't then it's probably the more aggressive automotive lacquers that might be causing that issue.
The Tamiya LP paint had 0 reaction and went on without a hitch. The release agant would cause the paints not to stick or create fish eyes, so i don’t think that would be a problem.
I’ve had that reaction with unprimed automotive touchup paint, and with tamiya paint, and both kits were Aoshima. The first time I kept applying light coats to see if I could seal it off, but it kept coming to the surface. I suspect it has less to do with the paint and more to do with the plastic. Now I’m scared to build my amg sl6.3!
I have been watching your videos for about three months now. I am basically an airplane modeler and just recently started cars. My question is what should I use for cleaning my airbrush using 2k clears. I really cannot afford proprietary products so I am just left with solvent based thinners and cleaners.
You need to use some paint sealer on the bare plastic before you paint it. I know zero makes some sealer. You can also purchase it at any auto paint shop. Alternatively you can buy a spray can of BIN shellac primer sealer and use that.
Nice save Tom. It's gonna be a great build! One question, i'm having an issue with my aerograph (its one of those from amazon with the small compressor i bought just to try it) because when i paint there's no problem but when i try to use primer it get stuck from the first time. I tested with zero paints primer and also streeblisters one (this with thinner 1:1 because i thought maybe that would solve the issue but no) is the problem the compressor? Maybe because don't have the power needed and thats why it gets stucked? Thank you Tom!
It could very well be. But i honestly don’t know. Maybe the airbrush itself just can’t handle it. Problems with the seals. Could be all sorts of things. Those airbrushes are cheap for a reason.
it is almost all paints : zp, streetblisters, number5 etc bite the plastic even through tamiya or original SB primer. i put about 6-7 very thin layers and all were ok. another option that i found is using 2k primer. but in my case this primer dont adhere to plastic at all J_J
Noticed you had this with the Jaguar E-Type too. Are you sure it's not the Tamiya primer? I'm a total amateur in comparison to you so I copied your Jaguar E-Type vid. I used Mr Surfacer 1200 with MLT (no sanding the shinny plastic) and then Zero Paint and both coats came out perfectly. The primer coat in particular came out so smoothly. I'm a huge Tamiya fan btw. All my tools are Tamiya, I just havent got around to trying their primer.
The E-type was another problem. That was the red plastic which tends to come through all layers of primer and paint. Sealing it with a 2k primer might be the solution.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel Fair enough. All I can say is that the Mr Surfacer 1200 with MLT (1:3) went down on the un-sanded shinny red plastic like an absolute dream and the Zero Grigio Alloy went on top of that beautifully. Keep in mind that I have a zillionth of your talent so we can rule that out as a factor 😂 Thought I’d mention it in case the Tamiya Primer was your involved. somehow.
Dat probleem met de verf had ik ook met een lambo van Aoshima. in combi met laquer verf. echter was het pas zichtbaar na een paar weken :( Toen hij in elkaar zit. maar wel goed om te weten om hier aan te denken.
Yes and no. These are hard backed. Sanding stick are soft back and can therefore creat a small round spot instead of flat. So both have their advantages. I just like the idea of the dspiae ones where you can very quickly and easily make your own grit sanding stick
@@TheScalemodelingChannel. Would you say the Dspiae ones are better than other hard backed sanding sticks? For me, the cost is a huge factor if there's no real advantage.
@@Bob0sModelFabWorx Hard backed is hard backed, simple as that. so if money is the deciding factor. glue some sandpaper to a wood mixing stick. Same results.
The problem is that all such special car paints are very aggressive to plastic. Therefore, you need to use only branded primer. Manufacturers also write about this. I had the same issues with Zero and Splash on Tamiya plastic. After replacing the primer, there were no problems.
The problem you were having was a reaction between the primer and the base coat. Not all primers and paints are chemically compatible. If you have that problem again, try a 2k primer.
I build models, but I also do body work and paint work on cars. The rule for me is to always use the same brand of primer as paint. The companies that make paint will always ensure that their products are compatible.
I’ve had a nightmare with this kit, I’ve found the rear engine frame doesn’t assemble very well and ive ended up putting it away until I can be bothered again
Its problem between 1K primer and paint. This paints its automotive paints thinned by nitrocelulose thinner and its very aggresive for 1K primers. 2K primer is solution for this problem 😉
Why not airbrush with a dual action airbrush for the body parts like you did in the past Tom? So you control the amount of paint and airflow? Can’t help it, but each time I see you using the Mr. Hobby airbrush with a large 0.5 needle I’m thinking “that’s a heavy coat for (hot) lacquer paints”. Personally I wouldn’t use it for airbrushing body parts but only for 2K clear coating.
Because i got bad cramps in my hand from the dual action airbrush. The coats i apply with this one are just as thick or thin as with the old one though.
Could be, however it went through the primer in to the plastic. Plus this exact primer has worked perfect with these paints many times. So its still a mystery to me.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel i think EVERYTHING looks good in purple, depending on the shade. But that a personal philosophy lol. I love your channel.BTW. Your builds are incredible and give me inspiration.
I love how many times you went over that you knew what the problem was, and even stated what it was, yet everyone still tries telling you what to do or why it happened.... I say good job with dealing and explaining what happened here. Very informative and helpful. Thank you for being transparent with your work through the ups and downs and helping others get into the hobby.
Your friend Arden
Great job!! I got the same reaction with Gravity Paint. The solvent in the paint are very strong and attack certain plastic, (all Aoshima kit for me). Now i put 2-3 thin coats of primer, same as you Tamiya 50/50 and little sanding in between coats. I leave it dry for 2 days minimum. I dont want to mix the solvent. Many thin coats as needed to cover perfectly. I got nice result since i do this.
I've been watching your channel for several years I believe. Now I bought an airbrush and some polishing materials and finally ready to try to achieve at least some bit of car body finish you do!
Been modelling only armour and other 'dirty' and not so demanding things.
You did a nice job in spite of the reaction by the plastic. It can be hard to get super fine silver finish. Best bang for the buck is TS-17 in my opinion. 3 mist coats, 1 one wet coat, then wet sand the color coat, and add one more wet color coat before the clear. That gets the metal flakes to lay down super smooth. The most realistic silver paint I've seen though is by using Testors Aluminum Metalizer, 2k clear would be necessary to give it strong protection though.
Loved the blooper at the end. Sucks that the problems persisted, but way to try and work them out and push through. Can't wait to see the finished product. Take care, you friend Arden.
I thought I was the onely one strugling with paint, glad to see that a pro has the same issues, learning lot here ! 👍 For sanding I just glue different grids of sandpaper to popsicle sticks or trips of foam board, works like a charm. Every thing on a budget, me being Dutch, don't judge....😁
Haha. Ook ik ben een skrale hollander hoor🤣
Glad to see I’m not the only person having problems with paints. Lol! Happy days and model on! 😎
Hi!
I think the problem was a reaction of the primer with the paint.
If it had been the plastic, it would have been "damaged". When removing the paint, it seems to be fine.
I'm sure using our primer or a 2K primer, you wouldn't have had that problem.
Glad to see you were able to fix it! Great job!!
The plastic was also a little damaged, but did not show up well on camera with the white plastic color. I don’t think the paint is to blame.
Oooh I had that exact same issue in my huayra build with zero paints. I also used Tamiya primers on that kit. Never a problem mixing tamiya primer with zero paints on anything else I’ve built. I was so confused how I messed up that aoshima kit but now I know haha
I had similar issues painting my Huracan Performante in Splash Blu Cepheus over Tamiya primer; I had reworked the sides so they had a lot of primer and thus zero etching, the hood and the roof however had less primer and caused etching which was quite "fun" to fix. Once plastic has etched it will never stop unless you use some kind of a sealer between the plastic and primer coats, or in between primer coats. I just started the Aoshima LBWK Huracan and will be sure to test my primer/color before going all-in on wet coats.
My molded-in-red LBWK Huracan is now covered in Splash Viola 30; from my previous issues w/crazing on the Performante I've been applying more primer and have had no issues. This one got several coats of Mr. Surfacer gray to refine panel lines, and a few coats of Tamiya base white. The Viola 30 went down smooth as silk with zero crazing. Aoshima's plastic seems more sensitive than other brands.
Nice save there Tom, hurts when things start having a mind of their own in our hobby but you managed to correct it quite well there. Looking forward for the next part 👍🏼👍🏼
Kan gebeuren dat het wat tegen zit! Mijn ervaring met paint remover van Tamiya is dat je daar ook mee moet oppassen omdat dit ook vrij agressief spul is.
I had the same problem with the Huayra kit but switched to tamiya primer and there gloss aluminum spray paint and was fine,nice save though looking forward to the rest of the build
Great work and nice save. On wierd plastic with these ghost seam issues I try using an acrylic primer such as Stynelrez / UMP (same thing) for about 3 coats and then let it cure for 24 hours before painting. The acrylic forms a barrier between the lacquer and the plastic. I'm curious if they are using recycle plastics now that might be causing this? I've seen it on a Revell kit as well.
Another suggestion would be to actually seal the plastic with a sealer/primer.
We had to do that back in the 90s when spraying real automotive lacquer paints.
I'm not sure a 2K clear today is designed to seal anything though. Go to the auto parts store and get a can of Krylon primer/sealer.
My first thought was the plastic in the kit is made up of many types of plastic from the recyclers. Not virgin plastic. We seen this from new kits a few years ago that are re-issued and compared them to the original kit plastic. There was a huge difference. Research showed us the companies are buy the cheaper recycled plastic to make their kits.
I don’t think 2k clear would be the solution. But 2k primer.
It indeed seems like a mix of plastics as some parts have worse reaction then others. And some even have no reaction at all.
A 2k primer would be a good base to start of with on the next kit just to give it a try.
Those issues with the paint are awful. I hate that you have had that problem. Thanks for sharing.
Body looks Great!!! Anxious to see how well this kit goes together. I'll be watching
Weer mooi balen. Ik had het laatst ook met een monogram bouwdoos. En neem aan dat je het plastiek goed schoon gemaakt had. De paint remover van Carson is ook goed. En werkt op de zelfde manier. Kost rond de 10 euro dacht ik zo
I'll have to try that Tamiya paint stripper. I have a Fujimi Porsche that had the exact same issue. No amount of sanding has been able to solve the issue, nor has my usual paint stripping method. So it's been back in the box for a while.
I've had a similar problem on a Tamiya kit using the Tamiya primer, once I changed the primer the problem disappeared. The paint I was using is from a local manufacturer ( it's hard to find scale modeling supplies in my country, brands like Zero Paints or Streetblisters are not available here ).
Looks great so far.
Had the same problem on the Aoshima Pagani Huayra, seems more people have this problem so it looks like the plastic of Aoshima's models is part of the problem.
When you were unboxing this you mentioned the lock cylinder detail on the doors. How do preserve detail like this with all of the layers of primer, paint and 2k clear ?
I just paint. And try not to go super thick
It could be release agent on the plastic, but I always thought you washed your kits before paint so the only thing I can think of is after sanding the primer smooth putting a second primer coat on and sanding back smooth again so it's a little thicker and then once thats dried off applying the colour coat.
I wonder if it would react the same way to Tamiya LP paints, if it doesn't then it's probably the more aggressive automotive lacquers that might be causing that issue.
The Tamiya LP paint had 0 reaction and went on without a hitch. The release agant would cause the paints not to stick or create fish eyes, so i don’t think that would be a problem.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel It's probably the more aggressive laqcuers then reacting in some way would be my guess.
I’ve had that reaction with unprimed automotive touchup paint, and with tamiya paint, and both kits were Aoshima. The first time I kept applying light coats to see if I could seal it off, but it kept coming to the surface. I suspect it has less to do with the paint and more to do with the plastic. Now I’m scared to build my amg sl6.3!
anyone try a different primer. SmC used standard Tamiya both times I believe
I have to say I had the same problem with my aoshima Lamborghini that I painted with splash paints. It was really bad on some of panel lines.
I have been watching your videos for about three months now. I am basically an airplane modeler and just recently started cars. My question is what should I use for cleaning my airbrush using 2k clears. I really cannot afford proprietary products so I am just left with solvent based thinners and cleaners.
Lacquer thinner
I use cheap lacquer thinner from auto parts store and save the good stuff for the models.
You need to use some paint sealer on the bare plastic before you paint it. I know zero makes some sealer. You can also purchase it at any auto paint shop. Alternatively you can buy a spray can of BIN shellac primer sealer and use that.
Oooh i just got the Huayra myself!!
Loved the blooper at the end haha.
Nice save Tom. It's gonna be a great build! One question, i'm having an issue with my aerograph (its one of those from amazon with the small compressor i bought just to try it) because when i paint there's no problem but when i try to use primer it get stuck from the first time. I tested with zero paints primer and also streeblisters one (this with thinner 1:1 because i thought maybe that would solve the issue but no) is the problem the compressor? Maybe because don't have the power needed and thats why it gets stucked? Thank you Tom!
It could very well be. But i honestly don’t know. Maybe the airbrush itself just can’t handle it. Problems with the seals. Could be all sorts of things. Those airbrushes are cheap for a reason.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel Yeah i know😅 Thank you!
it is almost all paints : zp, streetblisters, number5 etc bite the plastic even through tamiya or original SB primer. i put about 6-7 very thin layers and all were ok. another option that i found is using 2k primer. but in my case this primer dont adhere to plastic at all J_J
Noticed you had this with the Jaguar E-Type too. Are you sure it's not the Tamiya primer? I'm a total amateur in comparison to you so I copied your Jaguar E-Type vid. I used Mr Surfacer 1200 with MLT (no sanding the shinny plastic) and then Zero Paint and both coats came out perfectly. The primer coat in particular came out so smoothly. I'm a huge Tamiya fan btw. All my tools are Tamiya, I just havent got around to trying their primer.
The E-type was another problem. That was the red plastic which tends to come through all layers of primer and paint. Sealing it with a 2k primer might be the solution.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel Fair enough. All I can say is that the Mr Surfacer 1200 with MLT (1:3) went down on the un-sanded shinny red plastic like an absolute dream and the Zero Grigio Alloy went on top of that beautifully. Keep in mind that I have a zillionth of your talent so we can rule that out as a factor 😂 Thought I’d mention it in case the Tamiya Primer was your involved. somehow.
Dat probleem met de verf had ik ook met een lambo van Aoshima. in combi met laquer verf. echter was het pas zichtbaar na een paar weken :( Toen hij in elkaar zit. maar wel goed om te weten om hier aan te denken.
Use brake fluid to remove paint, trust me.
Did using the Dspiae sanding sticks improve anything over a standard sanding stick?
Yes and no. These are hard backed. Sanding stick are soft back and can therefore creat a small round spot instead of flat. So both have their advantages. I just like the idea of the dspiae ones where you can very quickly and easily make your own grit sanding stick
@@TheScalemodelingChannel. Would you say the Dspiae ones are better than other hard backed sanding sticks? For me, the cost is a huge factor if there's no real advantage.
@@Bob0sModelFabWorx Hard backed is hard backed, simple as that. so if money is the deciding factor. glue some sandpaper to a wood mixing stick. Same results.
Very nice!!
The problem is that all such special car paints are very aggressive to plastic. Therefore, you need to use only branded primer. Manufacturers also write about this. I had the same issues with Zero and Splash on Tamiya plastic. After replacing the primer, there were no problems.
With what did you replace the primer?
@@TheScalemodelingChannel For Zero - Zero filler primer, for Splash - Splash 2k primer
And Splash 2k primer is best primer ever for me. It has fantastic shrinkage and withstands any aggressive layers of chemicals
Can you make an F1 kit (plastic one and resine one) please 🙏
The problem you were having was a reaction between the primer and the base coat. Not all primers and paints are chemically compatible. If you have that problem again, try a 2k primer.
The primer and these exact paints have worked together just fine on other builds though
I build models, but I also do body work and paint work on cars. The rule for me is to always use the same brand of primer as paint. The companies that make paint will always ensure that their products are compatible.
acrylic paint isn't better?
I’ve had a nightmare with this kit, I’ve found the rear engine frame doesn’t assemble very well and ive ended up putting it away until I can be bothered again
LOL, I have same issue with Splash Paints (Midnight Purple)
The hood portion looks like a weird 4 button game controller
as in the Silver Arrow racing cars from Mercedes?
appreciate you showing less than ideal outcomes & explaining situation
I had that paint problem
Qual fabricante
Its problem between 1K primer and paint. This paints its automotive paints thinned by nitrocelulose thinner and its very aggresive for 1K primers. 2K primer is solution for this problem 😉
This primer is thinned with the same thinner. Why is it not a problem on these plastics. And it never has been a problem before?
That will happen putting $30 paint on $10 plastic.Ya'll be trying to paint action like its a concourse winner....it's still mass produced plastic.
Why not airbrush with a dual action airbrush for the body parts like you did in the past Tom? So you control the amount of paint and airflow? Can’t help it, but each time I see you using the Mr. Hobby airbrush with a large 0.5 needle I’m thinking “that’s a heavy coat for (hot) lacquer paints”. Personally I wouldn’t use it for airbrushing body parts but only for 2K clear coating.
Because i got bad cramps in my hand from the dual action airbrush. The coats i apply with this one are just as thick or thin as with the old one though.
P.s. the Mr hobby is also a dual action
@@TheScalemodelingChannel understand why you’re using a trigger type then (which doesn’t mean it’s no good for the record).
Interesting....................... 🤔
maybe a problem with primer?
Could be, however it went through the primer in to the plastic.
Plus this exact primer has worked perfect with these paints many times. So its still a mystery to me.
a mystery for sure... using primer should prevent any reaction between plastic and paint...
Shoulda been purple...
Nah. Thats a color for the zonda f. Maybe.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel i think EVERYTHING looks good in purple, depending on the shade. But that a personal philosophy lol. I love your channel.BTW. Your builds are incredible and give me inspiration.
Katastrofa! (((