I've also been a huge fan and supporter of Multiboard since fairly early after its initial release. I agree with your comments that the documentation and part linking is still not complete. It HAS gotten better that it was, but even the creator admits the team has a way to go to get where it should be. I think they focused too much on new parts and not enough on documenting the parts and showing use cases. At the very least, finish documenting the existing parts before releasing new ones. The design is solid and the functionality is great once you figure out what parts you need to accomplish your goal. Too bad it can be so iterative, and sometimes wasteful, to get there.
Thank you so much for supporting Multiboard! I truly appreciate your feedback and as you know I understand where you're coming from. I just want to clarify that I'm not necessarily focusing on creating new parts all the time. It just happens to be that while the website is being redesigned, there are occasional moments for new parts to be worked on, but the primary focus is improving organization, documentation, and usability for everyone. Currently, all parts have had a description update, but there’s still so much more to come. I’m also working on creating videos for every single design there are 235+ in total to make it easier to understand and implement every aspect of the system. Again I completely understand the frustration while were still in these sort of Beta phase and thanks so much for your support, It really means the world and it's what's making the ambitious future of Multiboard a possibility. I'm sure one things start to get updates in the new year they will make a big difference for everyone. Thanks for sticking with me! 😊
Glad Im not alone in the frustration of how the parts are organized. Every video I watch nobody has mentioned it. Im with you in that the parts needed to mount it/pair it with something else should be bundled with the file.
Hey! just wanted to put a little note in to say I am 100% in agreement that the whole thing is a little bit all over the place at the moment and parts are not anywhere near as best organized or displayed as they can be... I've been listening to everyone loud and clear and there is a whole new website redesign from the ground up which is going to make things 10x better plus i'm going to be working on making videos for every single design a total of 235. To hopefully be able to answer questions right away of any part of the system.
@multiboard_io i appreciate the reply! Love the system, but once I have a bunch of random files on my computer, I can't tell what part is what. "Dumbing" down the names of the parts would go a long way. Also, most of my frustration comes from the community (not multiboards fault) not saying what parts are needed for attachment, etc.
@6:00 When i upgraded my bed on my main printer i specifically got a larger bed than i needed by about 15mm in each direction. The edges like you implied will always run cooler and give you lower bed temps/bad adhesion because of that. I've printed massive ABS prints with no brim like a crazy person in a passively heated enclosed chamber with very little or no lifting. I also added g-code in the filament profiles for ABS/ASA/PC to let the chamber heat soak for 5 and 10 minutes after the bed reaches temp before the print starts. 10 minutes if the machine is cooled completely and 5 minutes for batch printing because it's still warm from a previous print. I use a a 315x315mm Carborundum glass bed and the build area is 300x290x320. Cartesian bed dropper. Printed a 2mm thick garbage can the other day On a Duplicator i3 i had before i insulated the edges with wool. I quickly noticed that bed slingers passively cool the parts and bed the more and the faster the bed moves, and parts where coming loose near the edges. Plenty of ways to eat a cat
Valid critiques. That said I have crazy amounts of weight on mine and I used drywall anchors on most. Not saying it's great for heavy duty stuff but it surprised me the amount of weight mine handled. The 14x14 boards is probably the issue. I did 8x8s and did an anchor in each corner, and one in every 2x2 and 4x4 snap (1 anchor per 2 or 4 connector)
@@MandicReally Ya.... The whole system is sort of designed for 8x8 tiles and it's what's encouraged exactly for that reason of warping tiles on larger tile structures. I'm going to be doing a whole new "How to mount a large Multiboard" Video where i'm very much going to encourage both 8x8, offset mounts and just putting it all onto a bit of MDF of ply... If not you pretty much just turn your wall into swiss cheese. That's how I'm able to put 150kg of filament on mine.
@@multiboard_io yeah that's pretty much my setup. 8x8s everywhere I can, and offset mounts, Currently have 3 different walls covered. It's been difficult not to just put multiboard on every wall in my office/gaming/3d printing room haha.
i had been interested in multi board and was considering it for a 3D printer/solder/craft table i'm building, but this video convinced me not to do it.. too much printing and the strength concern is an issue.. i'll just do french cleats, good ol' subtractive manufacturing.. i can always 3D print mounts that sit on the cleats anyway.. i do think i'll do some gridfinity for some drawers though
Decoration: 9/10 Innovation: 10/10 Utility: 3/10 looks cool, but a pegboard or a simple painted plywood sheet with some screws would achieve the same result and last 100 times longer in an actual workshop
Totally agree, a plywood covered wall is so much easier to add fittings to. You can use any cheap steel brackets and hooks plus print or fabricate custom holders.
For utility sake I would go for french cleats over plywood, especially when it comes to heavier tools. I do use standard pegboard in the workshop and Skadis in the home/office. Skadis has its pros and cons as well but does look snazzy for mech keyboards and gaming accessories on display.
I bought a few panels of both Omniwall and Wall control to investigate selling custom mounts on my Etsy, and Omniwall is the clear winner IMO. Their system for mounting the panels to the wall is very good, and the clips that secure their attachments are a killer feature. The panels themselves aren't that much more expensive, they gouge you on the attachments, but they do have much better attachments than anyone else. There's not nearly as many 3d printed mounts available, but the slots allow you to make mounts that are very strong, I made a 100% printed shelf (other than two 15mm M6 screws) in under 100g that could hold a 30lb kettlebell
Another great example of "Just because you can, doesn't mean you should". There are so many other, much better, commercial off the shelf solutions to this. Just because "it's better than it was before" (a bare wall), doesn't mean it's great. Or even 'good'.
It's a great system for smaller stuff. Bigger things like full size drills and circular saws are not how what I would use this kind of thing for. I have all French cleats in my workshop and that works much better for larger things but for my workbench with all my small things I use for electronics and what not I use pegboard. All the adjustability and movability seems great at the start, but I rarely if ever move anything on my French cleats or my peg hooks. Once my tools have their place, thats where they stay. If I moved things around all the time I would be spending most of my time looking for things instead of getting any work done.
@MandicReally that toolbox is sick too btw! This would be amazing for our garage, but I don't know about the struggles 😬 & I would have wanted to hang the leaf blower too 😂
Top notch Multiboard video!! I use it in my 3d printing area for lighter tools and have a nice French cleat wall in my garage for the bigger stuff. They even have mounts to hang Multiboard panels on French cleats to hopefully give the best of both worlds. Great job though! I enjoyed it!
That chaos of parts also held me back on using the Multiboard over the HSW. Still frustrating, but I am really satisfied with mine. I used the 2-part standoffs with the spacing behind in my garage and have a lot of big socket wrenches and also battery powered ones, all the accessories that go with them etc. hanging on there just fine.
The strength issues (and tons of printing) are the main reasons why I didn't go with these options for wall mounting. For my project room, I ended up using Skadis because it's relatively strong and very cheap with huge aftermarket support; for the garage, I used Wall Control because of its durability and strength and because they already offer a lot of nice accessories. That being said, the wall looks great in the studio!
@@MandicReally yeah it's hard to make a content about of the shelf pegboard, yet Scadis has pretty big 3d printing community, for instance, there is parametric model on printables, which can be used for fdm printing, lasercut or milling it
I bought Skadis on sale too. A couple of years ago it just looked SO much cheaper than all the printable alternatives, and with none of the printing issues (edge of bed adhesion) and a better finish. I appreciate all the design work, but it feels like one of the areas where the printer is the worse option because massive economy of scale already solved the issue.
I went with the skadis pegboard from Ikea. It's stupid simple to mount and hold a decent amount of weight. Accessories are pretty pricey so that's where 3D printing can save a few bucks. Some models are good some have less desirable geometry for strength so take your time finding the best options for your needs. I have been thoroughly surprised by Gridfinity however. The addon for Fusion really makes it streamlined for self made designs when models aren't readily available or aren't to your preferences.
Great vid. Thank you for saving me from this dark rabbit hole. I was starting to look at this system last week for a utility wall. I thought it seemed confusing as hell but chalked it up to my ADD and planned to revisit. Back to my Skadis plan.
I'm sure the last thing you want is a response telling you to print more parts but... I previously printed "honeycomb storage wall" system and had the same issue with the connector pieces coming out too easy with heavy objects. I switched to multiboard after testing the "DS Snaps" because they are much more solid. They are a two part (front & back) connector available in different fit tolerances with the most snug basically being "you are breaking this to get it apart" permanent. The guy who makes multiboard has a video showing how they go together... ua-cam.com/video/j6Jl53Ie6nI/v-deo.html
your videos are improving drastically with every new upload. Go, go, go! Keep going dude I don't even 3d print anymore but hell I love your charismatic personality and what you create. Bound for a blowup in no-time ❤❤❤ cheers from ny
Ah, takes me back to my mechanic days... sell the 18 year old a $10k toolbox, lol. Mine was the one with the airbrushed drag race between a Vette and a Chevelle. I polished it every week in case the Matco guy came to take it to a new home. 😂 2:45
This looks awesome! You totally nailed the color choices too, the grey but not black with the blue and purple is the perfect amount of contrast. Regarding the strength issues you mentioned, I would also keep an eye on printed parts deforming over time. PLA is somewhat susceptible to creep, and particularly with the weaker PolyTerra parts where it's bowing away from the wall, I'd keep a close eye on it. It might get worse over time unfortunately.
I have to agree, It's looking awesome and do keep an eye on the board as it seems like you have just used normal snaps which really are not redesign for high weight loads. I'm truly stress testing what happens creep wise in my studio with over 150KG of filament on my board plus a 15KG weight on a self but there are all using Hooked snaps and threads which are the specifically designed solution for Multiboard weight bearing builds.
What MultiBoard needs is a standalone app. It should let you go from prototyping to exporting/printing. That way things like knowing what else you need for a particular print is all on the same page. At least a drop down that list additional parts that are commonly used with that particular setup. Would make it much easier to have everything at your disposal all in one place. Since this is something that is a business for him, I think it would make a more compelling way for those wanting more from their use cases for MultiBoard. Plus adding new parts or updating existing ones is seamless with a news hub built right in. Just no ads PLEASE!
I have been using a variety of 98A and 72D TPU filaments and they are quite useful for 3D printed RC car parts that are either designed for or can tolerate the limited flexibility.
I'm happy with my multi-board deployments. It's certainly not perfect (particularly the documentation like you said) but I think you made a few mistakes. 1. You should have gone with smaller tiles and more connectors. 8x8 is probably as big as you should have gone. My inside wall is using 8x8 tiles however I put staggered connectors every 4 (staggered so that they aren't all lined up in perfect rows/columns). Not only does it look cool, it makes things are more sturdy. If I had committed to 4x4, 5x5, or 6x6 in the beginning I would have also saved myself a lot of grief getting the tiles to stick to my build plate. 2. You should also have used way more screws mounting the connectors to the walls. I have at least one screw in nearly every connector. That will eliminate the flex problem. 3. You probably should have done the offset mount to give you more room in the back for bolting in the connectors. The press fit stuff just isn't sturdy enough by itself for the heavier equipment. It IS a lot of work and a lot of printing, but it looks super cool when it's done. I also prefer the way it looks when it's busy with connectors over massive empty tiles.
While I am a fan (and backer) of multiboard over HSW it’s a bummer (though common one) that your new user experience wasn’t great. I think your view on the UX is spot on as it took me weeks to try to figure things out with trial and error. @keepmaking seems to be focused on expanding the library which is great, but I wish he would slow down on part design for a couple months and use that time making better instructions and a if you want this part also get this part. The knowledge hub on his site is really lacking and there are some parts that I still have no idea how they get used. Hopefully this video helps highlight this gap to him One thing that isn’t super clear that would have helped you and anyone who reads this, is that there is a screw/anchor setup for anchoring to the back that can be installed from the front even after the base grid is on the wall. That adds a lot of strength. Additionally there are offset pegs that you screw in to the back of the grid that can be placed throughout the grid that help with flexing on heavy items.
Hey! Thanks for being a supporter of Multiboard! I really appreciate the feedback and totally understand where you’re coming from. Improving the user experience is a huge focus right now, and while the library has been growing, I’ve been listening closely to all the feedback about better instructions and pairing parts (Thus the massive description update). Just to clarify, I’m not necessarily focusing on creating new parts all the time. It just happens to be that while the website is being redesigned (ETA Jan/Feb for phase 1 of 4), there are occasional moments for new parts to be worked on. The main focus is definitely on improving the organization, documentation, and usability for everyone. The knowledge hub is getting a complete overhaul as part of the website redesign, which I’m confident will make it much easier to find what you need and figure out how everything works together. On top of that, I’m also working on videos for all 235+ designs to guide people through the system step by step and answer any questions along the way. And your spot on, those anchors and offset pegs are great for heavy-duty builds-thanks for highlighting them here! Again thanks for the support and input it really means the world, and I’m excited to make all these updates next year to help fill in the gaps. Thanks sticking with me and helping to push Multiboard forward!
For strength in a shop I'd suggest putting the 2x2 mounts on the corners of four. This will hold each corner strongly. After that you can hang hundreds of pounds on it, especially with the higher load line of connectors Your summary of it being overwhelming is completely founded. Kind of like Gridfinity before the tools hit. Too bad it's not open source or it probably would have them by now.
Very cool concept, and I am just assuming that the rigidity issues you were having might be because you printed the 14x14 grid. I bet a whole 7x7 grid would be a little stronger? Also I bet adding on a piece of 3/8 plywood on the wall first, then painting that would solve the rigidity issues because you would be able to add more screws closer together on the board.
The 7x7s really aren’t stronger as they aren’t tied together along the edges, just by the clips at the corners. The plywood is what I should have done. I could have put plywood behind the drywall even and drilled anywhere. I considered it but already invested more than I wanted in supplies.
I have found the best way to mount the panels if you don't care about using the peg holes and want the panels flush to the wall is to simply put your screws directly into the peg holes. Great way to also reinforce those panels that have too much flex in them.
Great video, and I love multiboard. What would you recommend having your 3D Printer on so sound it not transmitted through the desk to the floor below? I have a Bambu Labs A1 with AMS
I just went with the good ol peg board and metal pegs etc for my garage. It's readily available, cheap and just works even for heavy things. You can get it in black, cardboard brown or white sometimes. You can also paint it to suit. Then I purchased a combination of metal pegs, shelves etc. You can even get heavy duty ones for heavier items. I love 3D printing but knew weight would be an strength issue so went the ol'skool method. Your's looks great though but I'm afraid issue my happen down the road with cracking or something. I have 3D printed a few items to hold some lighter weight items so there is that option too.
I love that you printed out a really big multiboard It's so cool to see it large format. You should try an incredible hack is slatwall. Specifically the aluminum slatwall. Wildly durable. Paintable. The kicker is that once you know the dimensions of the hooks you can easily 3D print parts, panels, cups, pods, and organizers. Take a look. You can even print hooks for a piece of plywood and multiboard. Another option as bad as it's going to be, is to back it with 3/4 laminated plywood. Then secure it in more spots with standoffs. I tried to like multiboard but unless I used expensive rigid filament it always felt too flimsy. PETG and ASA seem the best so far.
Nice build! And yeah, I agree, the system is pretty sweet and I have used it in my workspace but there is an overall "how this works" component missing.... There are are almost too many options and the system could use better documentation.
Just want to let you know i'm listening and thanks for the support. I promise you I'm working on everything I can and things WILL get much better with time.
It's a good system for smaller stuff. Bigger things like full size drills and circular saws are not how what I would use this kind of thing for. I have all French cleats in my workshop and that works much better for larger things but for my workbench with all my small things I use for electronics and what not I use pegboard. All the adjustability and movability seems great at the start, but I rarely if ever move anything on my French cleats or my peg hooks. Once my tools have their place, thats where they stay. If I moved things around all the time I would be spending most of my time looking for things instead of getting any work done.
I'm in two minds about this one. It looks super nice, but I definitely think that it makes more holes in the drywall than I'd feel comfortable with. The plastic use is also quite excessive. I've considered building this system, but I'm personally more inclined to take the IKEA Skadis, stick some LEDs behind it, and design my own mounts
Totally agree on the new user experience - I was going to print multiboard for cable management (see Hands On Katies "underwear" here on UA-cam). I started trying to figure out what I needed to print and just couldn't be bothered in the end. I'll just design some custom brackets and mount my stuff directly :)
Perfect setup for building new printers with the tools and such at the back. The other setup could be for reviews and anything that isn't building a kit printer or cnc or anything 😂
I use the multi material stack when I print grids as I never get good results with ironing. Biggest issue is the middle grids have gaps at the intersections that hurt aesthetics. I got around this by setting height range modifiers in orcaslicer to increase the number of walls at the top and bottom of the middle grids and apply gap fill
You can stack the tiles. I usually print 4 tiles stacked each print in 11x11 size om my K1max. Sliced in orca. Just make a spacing of 0.2mm and enable ironing top layer. Printed everyting in ABS
My favorite pegboard is the steel kind from Wall Control. Bonus: plenty of printable attachments for it on Printables (for hanging lighter items). I don't trust 3D printed pegboard for hanging heavy things like circular saws; every material creeps, some slowly deforms (PETG) and some fails spontaneously and catastrophically (ASA, PET-CF, PLA)
The STEP files to create your own are there, I believe behind the paywall, but I'm honestly not sure. Once I'm on the other side of the paywall it is hard to tell what is paid and what isn't: thangs.com/designer/Multiboard/3d-model/Tile%20Components%20-%20STEP%20Multiboard%20Remixing%20Files-994681 I used those core parts and just setup the grid as I wanted for my angled pieces. For regular square / rectangular sections the Blender tool works great.
He fully created a Fusion Multiboard file as the .step files are available for free in the remixing section. Only things that are behind paywalls are easy of life stuff, earyly acsses to parts that will be free in 3 months anyway and being able to sell the physical system.
Tried already 3 times to nove from honeycomb wall to multi board, but sfter an hour of searching,ecen how to just mount it to the wall,i lose hope in learning the rest and drop the idea
Its a cool design but you've hit every point and more that I assumed would be a problem. My solution is just a large scrap piece of white faced melamine particle board, and 3d printing holders for pens, 18650s, screwdriver holders and a few other things, and screws to hang everything else. I'd rather spend time in the workshop doing workshop things, than fitting it out. My main concerns were always, cost, strength, durability. I knew those printed boards were never going to be upto my needs
So cool! I wish I could print this with my Genius Pro. Unfortunately the whole wall would break and go down on me entirely, my whole house falls appart...
Studio is heated, cooled, and dehumidified by a mini split already. Needs better insulation (exterior walls aren’t at all) and a dedicated dehumidifier I think, but the mini split keeps up pretty well.
@MandicReally thanks a ton, bud. I just bought a house with a garage and the wife says it can be my shop. gonna buy a mini split pronto! (and also insulate my exterior walls oof)
Probably the part of the problem is the size of boards that you printed (14x14). There aren't enough anchor points and you get a lot of torsion on the parts, and layer adhesion starts playing a big part in overall strength. Boards are designed for predominantly downward forces (gravity) and when you add those hooks everything starts to bend if anchor points are not close enough. It would probably greatly help if you fixed all boards to be around "standard" printer size (probably around 7x7). Effectively you would be cutting distances by 1/3 and that would greatly help with material strength and amount of mass complete setup could carry.
I get that but smaller panel bits wouldn’t really make a difference imo. They still have to span between studs. Having a chunkier connecting piece in the middle of a 7x7 doesn’t seem to really make it stronger. And being separate pieces they aren’t bonded together in the middle of the grid so they can shear apart, not reinforcing. I didn’t find the 7x7 areas any stronger than the 14x14. I should have figured on a row of drywall anchors in between each stud, but that’s starting to get excessive for my goals I think.
@@MandicReally In Europe we have metal dowels that expand like umbrellas and anchor themselves in drywall, and they can carry a lot of weight, especially if drywall has two layers. One layer of drywall is problematic. And they come with normal bolts. I am not talking about those drywall little plastic thingy... This is serious stuff. If I am not mistaken, your goal is to put something on the wall, so I wouldn't call it excessive.
Another component you have to download. For me, I should have done that in CAD, but I didn't know I needed to. And doing so, then reprinting every one that I needed while I was trying to install it, that would have added hours to the project. The other reason is, sometimes you use one of the 4 place ones, sometimes a 2, sometimes just a standalone 1. So now you have to have versions of each of those with the countersunk integrated. The parts creep expands exponentially.
I JUST did a multiboard wall in my shop too and had a very similar experience. Super overwhelming and difficult to determine what you actually need. Also, fuck those split screw things.
Think that may get into "Reinventing the wheel" territory. There isn't much space inside of the print to embed anything, and backing the parts up with metal, you may as well get metal pegboard at that point. Things I will be considering for sure.
Its nice but its a lot of extra work. I built a fake wall for my workshop and i just stuck a sheet of peg board 4x8 sheet. then i just print all my hangers and stuff. its been holding up for about 5 years. lots of free stuff for pegboard to download. towel holders to cup holders. filament holders, tool organizers and everything in between.
The whole system didn't look as complete (or aesthetically pleasing) to me. I considered both but landed on MultiBoard for what I was trying to create. I could have done the bulk of this for Free, I just had to be extra so I paid up for the few things behind a paywall.
The organization is absolutely infuriating with these files. I genuinely have come to hate the project now but I’m so invested in printing, we’re talking hundreds and hundreds of hours, that I’m sunk cost fallacy trapped. I wish the designer would take a few months off making new widgets and ORGANIZE THE GD REPOSITORY. If I’m PAYING for it why can’t I USE IT. It’s shockingly frustrating and half the time I’ve gone back to just tossing crap in sterilite bins again because I don’t have five hours to scroll through the horse crap endless disorganized repo.
Hey! First off, I’m really sorry to hear about your frustration, it’s the last thing I want anyone to feel when using Multiboard. With that said, I totally understand where you’re coming from, and I appreciate you sharing your thoughts so honestly. I want to assure you that organization is a massive focus right now. The repository and knowledge hub are both getting a complete overhaul as part of a website redesign (ETA for phase 1 is Jan/Feb), and the goal is to make everything much more streamlined and intuitive to use. Also, just to clarify, I’m not focusing on making new parts all the time, it’s more that while the website redesign is in progress, there are occasional moments for new designs to happen. The core focus right now is absolutely on improving documentation, usability, and organization. I truly appreciate the time and effort you’ve already put into this project, and I hope these upcoming changes will make things way easier for you and others. Hang in there, thank for putting up with it and feedback. I genuinely helps drive the improvements I’m making and I'm sure once these updates are out they will make a big difference.
@@multiboard_io well I’m glad to hear you’re aware of the frustration for people who haven’t followed the evolution. I purchased a year membership so I’ll be around for that long. After that depends a lot on the items you’ve outlined here. Thanks for the honest response and good luck. 🍀
Yes I am, but I wanted to ensure the system worked for me and see how it behaves as most folks will use it. I can always reprint parts in ASA as I need. Love that Polymaker colors match in that way.
This looks really cool but for a heavy use work area I'd rather just stick to my plywood with hooks, screws, and the occasional 3d printed bracket for weirdly shaped thing. An indoor studio/shop light duty area though I do like the look.
I think your issues with tiles flexing is because you printed them so big. 14x14 needs more support than you gave it. There shouldn't be a gap bigger than say 6-7 hexes between wall anchors. Also, as Jonathan points out, the multiboard is only as strong as your wall. A lot of folks I see start with a wall of OSB instead of drywall for maximum structural integrity. I have the same issues with navigating the parts library. What makes it worse is there are lots of new official multiboard parts and a lot of community remixes and different connectors that will or won't work with what you're trying to do. It can be maddening.
It looks really nice, but too many compromises on functionality.. The core isn't anything robust like plywood, so you can't appreciably scale off of it and store anything heavy, save for drywall anchors to bypass it. Not being able to store drills with their battery pack is sort of a cardinal sin against 'first order retrievability' because it's flimsy like that you are locked into a system that can't really adapt even if you want it to. Modular, yes. Versatile, maybe.. but not for workshop tools. screwdrivers, fidget spinners, some gridfinity bins, and obviously a YT channel logo. So I'd say you printed a pleasant backdrop at the very least, with some lightweight versatility.
I don’t know if this has been tested but every polyterra roll I have ever used as well as overture matte PLA is not only extraordinarily brittle but also very very weak. I am very surprised you used this for your boards.
There are plenty of times where printing doesn't make much sense. This may be one of them, it may not. Time will tell as I learn it more and try to flesh it out a bit. I am probably asking a lot with the particular tools I'm using.
@@MandicReally Yeah if you want a thin wall section and high rigidity across a large area, you don't want 3D printed parts in general and even more so PLA
Given the shortcomings of the Multiboard system and the wide variety of metal and printed hooks, why not just use pegboard? It would hold more weight and could be painted or stained in almost any color. Multiboard is better suited for lighter, less demanding applications.
Looks good, but completely inadequate for anything but small and light tools. I wouldn't trust it even if it is injection moulded. Kinda funny to have it side by side to those nice robust tool boxes.
From what I've seen of these printed systems there is no way to make it economically attractive. If you make it sturdy enough to carry heavier stuff you'll be spending a fortune in power/filament and/or filling a silly amount of the openings with mounting parts. This is an area where huge mass-producing companies have competed for decades already, or as you said, French cleats.
Most power tools don’t come with cases anymore, and honestly, I rarely see pros keeping them. Cases take up way too much space-whether you’re packing a truck for a jobsite or organizing a shop like mine. For me, it just makes sense to ditch the cases and store my tools where I can easily see, grab, and put them back without any hassle. Since I’m not working job sites much anymore and 95% of my tool use happens here in the shop, this setup works perfectly for me!
Multiboard is just so overwhelming in scale for me that my anxiety just shoots through the roof, I went for a normal metal pegboard instead. Edit: it’s not multiboards fault, it’s just so expansive that my brain shuts down from all the options 😂
@ oh it’s not your fault at all, it’s amazing how big the system is. The fault lies with my brain who just shuts down whenever i try to figure out which parts i need 🙂
I've also been a huge fan and supporter of Multiboard since fairly early after its initial release. I agree with your comments that the documentation and part linking is still not complete. It HAS gotten better that it was, but even the creator admits the team has a way to go to get where it should be. I think they focused too much on new parts and not enough on documenting the parts and showing use cases. At the very least, finish documenting the existing parts before releasing new ones. The design is solid and the functionality is great once you figure out what parts you need to accomplish your goal. Too bad it can be so iterative, and sometimes wasteful, to get there.
Thank you so much for supporting Multiboard! I truly appreciate your feedback and as you know I understand where you're coming from. I just want to clarify that I'm not necessarily focusing on creating new parts all the time. It just happens to be that while the website is being redesigned, there are occasional moments for new parts to be worked on, but the primary focus is improving organization, documentation, and usability for everyone.
Currently, all parts have had a description update, but there’s still so much more to come. I’m also working on creating videos for every single design there are 235+ in total to make it easier to understand and implement every aspect of the system.
Again I completely understand the frustration while were still in these sort of Beta phase and thanks so much for your support, It really means the world and it's what's making the ambitious future of Multiboard a possibility. I'm sure one things start to get updates in the new year they will make a big difference for everyone. Thanks for sticking with me! 😊
Glad Im not alone in the frustration of how the parts are organized. Every video I watch nobody has mentioned it. Im with you in that the parts needed to mount it/pair it with something else should be bundled with the file.
Hey! just wanted to put a little note in to say I am 100% in agreement that the whole thing is a little bit all over the place at the moment and parts are not anywhere near as best organized or displayed as they can be... I've been listening to everyone loud and clear and there is a whole new website redesign from the ground up which is going to make things 10x better plus i'm going to be working on making videos for every single design a total of 235. To hopefully be able to answer questions right away of any part of the system.
@multiboard_io i appreciate the reply! Love the system, but once I have a bunch of random files on my computer, I can't tell what part is what. "Dumbing" down the names of the parts would go a long way. Also, most of my frustration comes from the community (not multiboards fault) not saying what parts are needed for attachment, etc.
@6:00 When i upgraded my bed on my main printer i specifically got a larger bed than i needed by about 15mm in each direction. The edges like you implied will always run cooler and give you lower bed temps/bad adhesion because of that. I've printed massive ABS prints with no brim like a crazy person in a passively heated enclosed chamber with very little or no lifting.
I also added g-code in the filament profiles for ABS/ASA/PC to let the chamber heat soak for 5 and 10 minutes after the bed reaches temp before the print starts. 10 minutes if the machine is cooled completely and 5 minutes for batch printing because it's still warm from a previous print. I use a a 315x315mm Carborundum glass bed and the build area is 300x290x320. Cartesian bed dropper. Printed a 2mm thick garbage can the other day
On a Duplicator i3 i had before i insulated the edges with wool. I quickly noticed that bed slingers passively cool the parts and bed the more and the faster the bed moves, and parts where coming loose near the edges. Plenty of ways to eat a cat
Valid critiques. That said I have crazy amounts of weight on mine and I used drywall anchors on most. Not saying it's great for heavy duty stuff but it surprised me the amount of weight mine handled. The 14x14 boards is probably the issue. I did 8x8s and did an anchor in each corner, and one in every 2x2 and 4x4 snap (1 anchor per 2 or 4 connector)
Yea I should have figured on anchors in every drywall bay. Or put plywood behind the drywall (or just plywood) to screw it more. Hindsight.
@@MandicReally Ya.... The whole system is sort of designed for 8x8 tiles and it's what's encouraged exactly for that reason of warping tiles on larger tile structures. I'm going to be doing a whole new "How to mount a large Multiboard" Video where i'm very much going to encourage both 8x8, offset mounts and just putting it all onto a bit of MDF of ply... If not you pretty much just turn your wall into swiss cheese. That's how I'm able to put 150kg of filament on mine.
@@multiboard_io yeah that's pretty much my setup. 8x8s everywhere I can, and offset mounts, Currently have 3 different walls covered. It's been difficult not to just put multiboard on every wall in my office/gaming/3d printing room haha.
i had been interested in multi board and was considering it for a 3D printer/solder/craft table i'm building, but this video convinced me not to do it.. too much printing and the strength concern is an issue.. i'll just do french cleats, good ol' subtractive manufacturing.. i can always 3D print mounts that sit on the cleats anyway.. i do think i'll do some gridfinity for some drawers though
3D printed mounts and adapters for French cleats makes a ton of sense. It is the best of both worlds.
Decoration: 9/10
Innovation: 10/10
Utility: 3/10
looks cool, but a pegboard or a simple painted plywood sheet with some screws would achieve the same result and last 100 times longer in an actual workshop
Totally agree, a plywood covered wall is so much easier to add fittings to. You can use any cheap steel brackets and hooks plus print or fabricate custom holders.
For utility sake I would go for french cleats over plywood, especially when it comes to heavier tools. I do use standard pegboard in the workshop and Skadis in the home/office. Skadis has its pros and cons as well but does look snazzy for mech keyboards and gaming accessories on display.
looks great! thanks for the explanation of multiboard. Now I know I wasn't the only one overwhelmed with all that options.
I bought a few panels of both Omniwall and Wall control to investigate selling custom mounts on my Etsy, and Omniwall is the clear winner IMO. Their system for mounting the panels to the wall is very good, and the clips that secure their attachments are a killer feature. The panels themselves aren't that much more expensive, they gouge you on the attachments, but they do have much better attachments than anyone else.
There's not nearly as many 3d printed mounts available, but the slots allow you to make mounts that are very strong, I made a 100% printed shelf (other than two 15mm M6 screws) in under 100g that could hold a 30lb kettlebell
Another great example of "Just because you can, doesn't mean you should".
There are so many other, much better, commercial off the shelf solutions to this.
Just because "it's better than it was before" (a bare wall), doesn't mean it's great. Or even 'good'.
It's a great system for smaller stuff. Bigger things like full size drills and circular saws are not how what I would use this kind of thing for. I have all French cleats in my workshop and that works much better for larger things but for my workbench with all my small things I use for electronics and what not I use pegboard. All the adjustability and movability seems great at the start, but I rarely if ever move anything on my French cleats or my peg hooks. Once my tools have their place, thats where they stay. If I moved things around all the time I would be spending most of my time looking for things instead of getting any work done.
Oh yes! It's looking great, I can just imagine based on your old studio. Everything takes time ❤
Soooo much time. Getting there bit by bit though. Thanks!
@MandicReally that toolbox is sick too btw! This would be amazing for our garage, but I don't know about the struggles 😬 & I would have wanted to hang the leaf blower too 😂
I've looked at various of these kinds of systems and finally just went with good old fashioned french cleats. Simple, cheap, and strong.
Top notch Multiboard video!! I use it in my 3d printing area for lighter tools and have a nice French cleat wall in my garage for the bigger stuff. They even have mounts to hang Multiboard panels on French cleats to hopefully give the best of both worlds. Great job though! I enjoyed it!
and the winner is IKEA wall board.... ahahahah
That chaos of parts also held me back on using the Multiboard over the HSW. Still frustrating, but I am really satisfied with mine. I used the 2-part standoffs with the spacing behind in my garage and have a lot of big socket wrenches and also battery powered ones, all the accessories that go with them etc. hanging on there just fine.
The strength issues (and tons of printing) are the main reasons why I didn't go with these options for wall mounting. For my project room, I ended up using Skadis because it's relatively strong and very cheap with huge aftermarket support; for the garage, I used Wall Control because of its durability and strength and because they already offer a lot of nice accessories. That being said, the wall looks great in the studio!
Thank you. Yea, this isn’t for everyone (probably even me) but it is great to have the options.
@@MandicReally yeah it's hard to make a content about of the shelf pegboard, yet Scadis has pretty big 3d printing community, for instance, there is parametric model on printables, which can be used for fdm printing, lasercut or milling it
I bought Skadis on sale too. A couple of years ago it just looked SO much cheaper than all the printable alternatives, and with none of the printing issues (edge of bed adhesion) and a better finish.
I appreciate all the design work, but it feels like one of the areas where the printer is the worse option because massive economy of scale already solved the issue.
Yeah even my normal old school pegboard is stronger and so much easier.
However won't ever satisfy that OCD itch that multiboard can.
I went with the skadis pegboard from Ikea. It's stupid simple to mount and hold a decent amount of weight. Accessories are pretty pricey so that's where 3D printing can save a few bucks. Some models are good some have less desirable geometry for strength so take your time finding the best options for your needs.
I have been thoroughly surprised by Gridfinity however. The addon for Fusion really makes it streamlined for self made designs when models aren't readily available or aren't to your preferences.
Great vid. Thank you for saving me from this dark rabbit hole. I was starting to look at this system last week for a utility wall. I thought it seemed confusing as hell but chalked it up to my ADD and planned to revisit. Back to my Skadis plan.
I'm sure the last thing you want is a response telling you to print more parts but...
I previously printed "honeycomb storage wall" system and had the same issue with the connector pieces coming out too easy with heavy objects. I switched to multiboard after testing the "DS Snaps" because they are much more solid. They are a two part (front & back) connector available in different fit tolerances with the most snug basically being "you are breaking this to get it apart" permanent. The guy who makes multiboard has a video showing how they go together... ua-cam.com/video/j6Jl53Ie6nI/v-deo.html
Yep those are how I secured mine as well
your videos are improving drastically with every new upload. Go, go, go! Keep going dude I don't even 3d print anymore but hell I love your charismatic personality and what you create. Bound for a blowup in no-time ❤❤❤ cheers from ny
Amen!!! not everything needs to be perfekt, so a good way to tackle the drywall 😍
Ah, takes me back to my mechanic days... sell the 18 year old a $10k toolbox, lol. Mine was the one with the airbrushed drag race between a Vette and a Chevelle. I polished it every week in case the Matco guy came to take it to a new home. 😂 2:45
We miss you hot rod hippie!
This looks awesome! You totally nailed the color choices too, the grey but not black with the blue and purple is the perfect amount of contrast. Regarding the strength issues you mentioned, I would also keep an eye on printed parts deforming over time. PLA is somewhat susceptible to creep, and particularly with the weaker PolyTerra parts where it's bowing away from the wall, I'd keep a close eye on it. It might get worse over time unfortunately.
I have to agree, It's looking awesome and do keep an eye on the board as it seems like you have just used normal snaps which really are not redesign for high weight loads. I'm truly stress testing what happens creep wise in my studio with over 150KG of filament on my board plus a 15KG weight on a self but there are all using Hooked snaps and threads which are the specifically designed solution for Multiboard weight bearing builds.
What MultiBoard needs is a standalone app. It should let you go from prototyping to exporting/printing. That way things like knowing what else you need for a particular print is all on the same page. At least a drop down that list additional parts that are commonly used with that particular setup. Would make it much easier to have everything at your disposal all in one place. Since this is something that is a business for him, I think it would make a more compelling way for those wanting more from their use cases for MultiBoard. Plus adding new parts or updating existing ones is seamless with a news hub built right in. Just no ads PLEASE!
I have been using a variety of 98A and 72D TPU filaments and they are quite useful for 3D printed RC car parts that are either designed for or can tolerate the limited flexibility.
I'm happy with my multi-board deployments. It's certainly not perfect (particularly the documentation like you said) but I think you made a few mistakes.
1. You should have gone with smaller tiles and more connectors. 8x8 is probably as big as you should have gone. My inside wall is using 8x8 tiles however I put staggered connectors every 4 (staggered so that they aren't all lined up in perfect rows/columns). Not only does it look cool, it makes things are more sturdy. If I had committed to 4x4, 5x5, or 6x6 in the beginning I would have also saved myself a lot of grief getting the tiles to stick to my build plate.
2. You should also have used way more screws mounting the connectors to the walls. I have at least one screw in nearly every connector. That will eliminate the flex problem.
3. You probably should have done the offset mount to give you more room in the back for bolting in the connectors. The press fit stuff just isn't sturdy enough by itself for the heavier equipment.
It IS a lot of work and a lot of printing, but it looks super cool when it's done. I also prefer the way it looks when it's busy with connectors over massive empty tiles.
I had no issues with building my wall. Did with Petg hf bambu. Super super rigid.
4:23 This is why I stuck with IKEA SKADIS - its adaptable enough for my needs, you can print more/smaller/customer shaped extensions too
While I am a fan (and backer) of multiboard over HSW it’s a bummer (though common one) that your new user experience wasn’t great. I think your view on the UX is spot on as it took me weeks to try to figure things out with trial and error. @keepmaking seems to be focused on expanding the library which is great, but I wish he would slow down on part design for a couple months and use that time making better instructions and a if you want this part also get this part. The knowledge hub on his site is really lacking and there are some parts that I still have no idea how they get used.
Hopefully this video helps highlight this gap to him
One thing that isn’t super clear that would have helped you and anyone who reads this, is that there is a screw/anchor setup for anchoring to the back that can be installed from the front even after the base grid is on the wall. That adds a lot of strength. Additionally there are offset pegs that you screw in to the back of the grid that can be placed throughout the grid that help with flexing on heavy items.
Hey! Thanks for being a supporter of Multiboard! I really appreciate the feedback and totally understand where you’re coming from. Improving the user experience is a huge focus right now, and while the library has been growing, I’ve been listening closely to all the feedback about better instructions and pairing parts (Thus the massive description update).
Just to clarify, I’m not necessarily focusing on creating new parts all the time. It just happens to be that while the website is being redesigned (ETA Jan/Feb for phase 1 of 4), there are occasional moments for new parts to be worked on. The main focus is definitely on improving the organization, documentation, and usability for everyone.
The knowledge hub is getting a complete overhaul as part of the website redesign, which I’m confident will make it much easier to find what you need and figure out how everything works together. On top of that, I’m also working on videos for all 235+ designs to guide people through the system step by step and answer any questions along the way.
And your spot on, those anchors and offset pegs are great for heavy-duty builds-thanks for highlighting them here! Again thanks for the support and input it really means the world, and I’m excited to make all these updates next year to help fill in the gaps. Thanks sticking with me and helping to push Multiboard forward!
For strength in a shop I'd suggest putting the 2x2 mounts on the corners of four. This will hold each corner strongly. After that you can hang hundreds of pounds on it, especially with the higher load line of connectors
Your summary of it being overwhelming is completely founded.
Kind of like Gridfinity before the tools hit. Too bad it's not open source or it probably would have them by now.
Then again I didn't go beyond 8x8 boards
Very cool concept, and I am just assuming that the rigidity issues you were having might be because you printed the 14x14 grid. I bet a whole 7x7 grid would be a little stronger?
Also I bet adding on a piece of 3/8 plywood on the wall first, then painting that would solve the rigidity issues because you would be able to add more screws closer together on the board.
The 7x7s really aren’t stronger as they aren’t tied together along the edges, just by the clips at the corners. The plywood is what I should have done. I could have put plywood behind the drywall even and drilled anywhere. I considered it but already invested more than I wanted in supplies.
I have found the best way to mount the panels if you don't care about using the peg holes and want the panels flush to the wall is to simply put your screws directly into the peg holes. Great way to also reinforce those panels that have too much flex in them.
Yup! That's when the peg holes have a slight counter sink to them.
Great video, and I love multiboard. What would you recommend having your 3D Printer on so sound it not transmitted through the desk to the floor below? I have a Bambu Labs A1 with AMS
I just went with the good ol peg board and metal pegs etc for my garage. It's readily available, cheap and just works even for heavy things. You can get it in black, cardboard brown or white sometimes. You can also paint it to suit. Then I purchased a combination of metal pegs, shelves etc. You can even get heavy duty ones for heavier items. I love 3D printing but knew weight would be an strength issue so went the ol'skool method. Your's looks great though but I'm afraid issue my happen down the road with cracking or something. I have 3D printed a few items to hold some lighter weight items so there is that option too.
I love that you printed out a really big multiboard It's so cool to see it large format. You should try an incredible hack is slatwall. Specifically the aluminum slatwall. Wildly durable. Paintable. The kicker is that once you know the dimensions of the hooks you can easily 3D print parts, panels, cups, pods, and organizers. Take a look. You can even print hooks for a piece of plywood and multiboard. Another option as bad as it's going to be, is to back it with 3/4 laminated plywood. Then secure it in more spots with standoffs. I tried to like multiboard but unless I used expensive rigid filament it always felt too flimsy. PETG and ASA seem the best so far.
Nice build! And yeah, I agree, the system is pretty sweet and I have used it in my workspace but there is an overall "how this works" component missing.... There are are almost too many options and the system could use better documentation.
I agree, multiboard is GREAT (and I'm even a backer) but it is overwhelming and the Thangs listings suck
Just want to let you know i'm listening and thanks for the support. I promise you I'm working on everything I can and things WILL get much better with time.
I would add more countersunk inserts and screws, especially near the heavier objects. It should help with your strength problem.
It's a good system for smaller stuff. Bigger things like full size drills and circular saws are not how what I would use this kind of thing for. I have all French cleats in my workshop and that works much better for larger things but for my workbench with all my small things I use for electronics and what not I use pegboard. All the adjustability and movability seems great at the start, but I rarely if ever move anything on my French cleats or my peg hooks. Once my tools have their place, thats where they stay. If I moved things around all the time I would be spending most of my time looking for things instead of getting any work done.
I'm in two minds about this one. It looks super nice, but I definitely think that it makes more holes in the drywall than I'd feel comfortable with. The plastic use is also quite excessive. I've considered building this system, but I'm personally more inclined to take the IKEA Skadis, stick some LEDs behind it, and design my own mounts
Totally agree on the new user experience - I was going to print multiboard for cable management (see Hands On Katies "underwear" here on UA-cam). I started trying to figure out what I needed to print and just couldn't be bothered in the end. I'll just design some custom brackets and mount my stuff directly :)
Perfect setup for building new printers with the tools and such at the back. The other setup could be for reviews and anything that isn't building a kit printer or cnc or anything 😂
Awesome! Please explore this multi material stacked printing some time soon :)
Maybe I’ll do a short on it. We intend to expand this further up above this area for stuff that is used less frequently.
I use the multi material stack when I print grids as I never get good results with ironing. Biggest issue is the middle grids have gaps at the intersections that hurt aesthetics. I got around this by setting height range modifiers in orcaslicer to increase the number of walls at the top and bottom of the middle grids and apply gap fill
You can stack the tiles. I usually print 4 tiles stacked each print in 11x11 size om my K1max. Sliced in orca. Just make a spacing of 0.2mm and enable ironing top layer. Printed everyting in ABS
Not trying to be a dick, but did you watch the video? I showed doing that, the results, and explained how it is done...
Nice! I might have to get some multiboard going for my garage.
It is overwhelming but worth it once you wrapped your head around it. Or think you do, ha.
@@MandicReally Plus once we get the new UI/UX going it going to be so much easer to get started.
My favorite pegboard is the steel kind from Wall Control. Bonus: plenty of printable attachments for it on Printables (for hanging lighter items). I don't trust 3D printed pegboard for hanging heavy things like circular saws; every material creeps, some slowly deforms (PETG) and some fails spontaneously and catastrophically (ASA, PET-CF, PLA)
Did you fully create the fusion multiboard files or are they available behind the multiboard paywall?
The STEP files to create your own are there, I believe behind the paywall, but I'm honestly not sure. Once I'm on the other side of the paywall it is hard to tell what is paid and what isn't: thangs.com/designer/Multiboard/3d-model/Tile%20Components%20-%20STEP%20Multiboard%20Remixing%20Files-994681
I used those core parts and just setup the grid as I wanted for my angled pieces. For regular square / rectangular sections the Blender tool works great.
He fully created a Fusion Multiboard file as the .step files are available for free in the remixing section. Only things that are behind paywalls are easy of life stuff, earyly acsses to parts that will be free in 3 months anyway and being able to sell the physical system.
About to go into printing a multiboard setup here and I'm ready to experience the headache as well.
Tried already 3 times to nove from honeycomb wall to multi board, but sfter an hour of searching,ecen how to just mount it to the wall,i lose hope in learning the rest and drop the idea
Its a cool design but you've hit every point and more that I assumed would be a problem. My solution is just a large scrap piece of white faced melamine particle board, and 3d printing holders for pens, 18650s, screwdriver holders and a few other things, and screws to hang everything else. I'd rather spend time in the workshop doing workshop things, than fitting it out. My main concerns were always, cost, strength, durability. I knew those printed boards were never going to be upto my needs
So cool! I wish I could print this with my Genius Pro. Unfortunately the whole wall would break and go down on me entirely, my whole house falls appart...
Wouldn’t PLA creep during the summer?
I've found the same issues with multi board. It's very overwhelming to start with
Thank you
what will your humidity control be? mini split?
Studio is heated, cooled, and dehumidified by a mini split already. Needs better insulation (exterior walls aren’t at all) and a dedicated dehumidifier I think, but the mini split keeps up pretty well.
@MandicReally thanks a ton, bud. I just bought a house with a garage and the wife says it can be my shop. gonna buy a mini split pronto! (and also insulate my exterior walls oof)
Probably the part of the problem is the size of boards that you printed (14x14). There aren't enough anchor points and you get a lot of torsion on the parts, and layer adhesion starts playing a big part in overall strength. Boards are designed for predominantly downward forces (gravity) and when you add those hooks everything starts to bend if anchor points are not close enough. It would probably greatly help if you fixed all boards to be around "standard" printer size (probably around 7x7). Effectively you would be cutting distances by 1/3 and that would greatly help with material strength and amount of mass complete setup could carry.
I get that but smaller panel bits wouldn’t really make a difference imo. They still have to span between studs. Having a chunkier connecting piece in the middle of a 7x7 doesn’t seem to really make it stronger. And being separate pieces they aren’t bonded together in the middle of the grid so they can shear apart, not reinforcing. I didn’t find the 7x7 areas any stronger than the 14x14. I should have figured on a row of drywall anchors in between each stud, but that’s starting to get excessive for my goals I think.
@@MandicReally In Europe we have metal dowels that expand like umbrellas and anchor themselves in drywall, and they can carry a lot of weight, especially if drywall has two layers. One layer of drywall is problematic. And they come with normal bolts. I am not talking about those drywall little plastic thingy... This is serious stuff. If I am not mistaken, your goal is to put something on the wall, so I wouldn't call it excessive.
Why not integrate the countersink feature into the connector piece at the stud locations?
Another component you have to download. For me, I should have done that in CAD, but I didn't know I needed to. And doing so, then reprinting every one that I needed while I was trying to install it, that would have added hours to the project.
The other reason is, sometimes you use one of the 4 place ones, sometimes a 2, sometimes just a standalone 1. So now you have to have versions of each of those with the countersunk integrated. The parts creep expands exponentially.
That is something I would do hahaha use my hand standing in front of a wall of toolboxes.
I JUST did a multiboard wall in my shop too and had a very similar experience. Super overwhelming and difficult to determine what you actually need. Also, fuck those split screw things.
you and me both :) fitted to the walls. all brackets are made from black petg ;) see you are settling in good sir.
Do you think there is room for a remix that adds metal or plastic ribs to strength behind the boards?
Think that may get into "Reinventing the wheel" territory. There isn't much space inside of the print to embed anything, and backing the parts up with metal, you may as well get metal pegboard at that point. Things I will be considering for sure.
@@MandicReally You are right.
I’m glad to hear that I’m not the only one who finds multiboard confusing.
Sorry about that... We're still sort of in beta at the moment... Thang in there tho as the whole UX/UI is going to have one hell of an overhaul soon
I am printing 8x8 panels, I was lamenting not having a bigger printer, until I assembled some, any bigger, sayyyy 14x14, not enough support
Its nice but its a lot of extra work. I built a fake wall for my workshop and i just stuck a sheet of peg board 4x8 sheet. then i just print all my hangers and stuff. its been holding up for about 5 years. lots of free stuff for pegboard to download. towel holders to cup holders. filament holders, tool organizers and everything in between.
ever thought about honeycomb wall storage? its completely free and does the same thing as multiboard
The whole system didn't look as complete (or aesthetically pleasing) to me. I considered both but landed on MultiBoard for what I was trying to create. I could have done the bulk of this for Free, I just had to be extra so I paid up for the few things behind a paywall.
The organization is absolutely infuriating with these files.
I genuinely have come to hate the project now but I’m so invested in printing, we’re talking hundreds and hundreds of hours, that I’m sunk cost fallacy trapped.
I wish the designer would take a few months off making new widgets and ORGANIZE THE GD REPOSITORY.
If I’m PAYING for it why can’t I USE IT. It’s shockingly frustrating and half the time I’ve gone back to just tossing crap in sterilite bins again because I don’t have five hours to scroll through the horse crap endless disorganized repo.
Hey! First off, I’m really sorry to hear about your frustration, it’s the last thing I want anyone to feel when using Multiboard. With that said, I totally understand where you’re coming from, and I appreciate you sharing your thoughts so honestly.
I want to assure you that organization is a massive focus right now. The repository and knowledge hub are both getting a complete overhaul as part of a website redesign (ETA for phase 1 is Jan/Feb), and the goal is to make everything much more streamlined and intuitive to use.
Also, just to clarify, I’m not focusing on making new parts all the time, it’s more that while the website redesign is in progress, there are occasional moments for new designs to happen. The core focus right now is absolutely on improving documentation, usability, and organization.
I truly appreciate the time and effort you’ve already put into this project, and I hope these upcoming changes will make things way easier for you and others. Hang in there, thank for putting up with it and feedback. I genuinely helps drive the improvements I’m making and I'm sure once these updates are out they will make a big difference.
@@multiboard_io well I’m glad to hear you’re aware of the frustration for people who haven’t followed the evolution.
I purchased a year membership so I’ll be around for that long. After that depends a lot on the items you’ve outlined here.
Thanks for the honest response and good luck. 🍀
Aren't you afraid of PLA creep over time? Looks great though, especially with including your channel colors!
Yes I am, but I wanted to ensure the system worked for me and see how it behaves as most folks will use it. I can always reprint parts in ASA as I need. Love that Polymaker colors match in that way.
This looks really cool but for a heavy use work area I'd rather just stick to my plywood with hooks, screws, and the occasional 3d printed bracket for weirdly shaped thing. An indoor studio/shop light duty area though I do like the look.
Im glad I watched this because it convinced me that this was NOT the right solution for me loll
your case is where I believe the original HSW solution is far easier, faster and better to use.
I think your issues with tiles flexing is because you printed them so big. 14x14 needs more support than you gave it. There shouldn't be a gap bigger than say 6-7 hexes between wall anchors. Also, as Jonathan points out, the multiboard is only as strong as your wall. A lot of folks I see start with a wall of OSB instead of drywall for maximum structural integrity.
I have the same issues with navigating the parts library. What makes it worse is there are lots of new official multiboard parts and a lot of community remixes and different connectors that will or won't work with what you're trying to do. It can be maddening.
boy thats a lot of work and money when you could buy a commercial plywood pegboard and it would work instantly and be much stronger
It looks really nice, but too many compromises on functionality.. The core isn't anything robust like plywood, so you can't appreciably scale off of it and store anything heavy, save for drywall anchors to bypass it. Not being able to store drills with their battery pack is sort of a cardinal sin against 'first order retrievability' because it's flimsy like that you are locked into a system that can't really adapt even if you want it to. Modular, yes. Versatile, maybe.. but not for workshop tools. screwdrivers, fidget spinners, some gridfinity bins, and obviously a YT channel logo. So I'd say you printed a pleasant backdrop at the very least, with some lightweight versatility.
If it gets hot in your garage your rigidity issues will INCREASE.
I don’t know if this has been tested but every polyterra roll I have ever used as well as overture matte PLA is not only extraordinarily brittle but also very very weak. I am very surprised you used this for your boards.
Another example of a 3D printed design being a nice idea but under performing
There are plenty of times where printing doesn't make much sense. This may be one of them, it may not. Time will tell as I learn it more and try to flesh it out a bit. I am probably asking a lot with the particular tools I'm using.
@@MandicReally Yeah if you want a thin wall section and high rigidity across a large area, you don't want 3D printed parts in general and even more so PLA
Given the shortcomings of the Multiboard system and the wide variety of metal and printed hooks, why not just use pegboard? It would hold more weight and could be painted or stained in almost any color. Multiboard is better suited for lighter, less demanding applications.
Looks good, but completely inadequate for anything but small and light tools. I wouldn't trust it even if it is injection moulded. Kinda funny to have it side by side to those nice robust tool boxes.
Multiboard is great, but you highlight a lot of the problems. There's so much to get lost on
It's looking very flimsy. Might be okay for pencils but not tools.
French cleats seem much more relevant for a workshop.
From what I've seen of these printed systems there is no way to make it economically attractive. If you make it sturdy enough to carry heavier stuff you'll be spending a fortune in power/filament and/or filling a silly amount of the openings with mounting parts.
This is an area where huge mass-producing companies have competed for decades already, or as you said, French cleats.
is LTT not cancelled? why are y'all still hawking his screwdrivers
Hanging power tools makes no sense, just keep them in their travel cases with their accessories and put some strong shelving if necessary
Most power tools don’t come with cases anymore, and honestly, I rarely see pros keeping them. Cases take up way too much space-whether you’re packing a truck for a jobsite or organizing a shop like mine. For me, it just makes sense to ditch the cases and store my tools where I can easily see, grab, and put them back without any hassle. Since I’m not working job sites much anymore and 95% of my tool use happens here in the shop, this setup works perfectly for me!
What I hate about multi board is all the crap in the front required to join the panels together. It looks bad and wastes a large bit of space.
Multiboard is just so overwhelming in scale for me that my anxiety just shoots through the roof, I went for a normal metal pegboard instead.
Edit: it’s not multiboards fault, it’s just so expansive that my brain shuts down from all the options 😂
Sorry for that... Big changes are coming to the UI/UX of it all to really make it a lot more approachable in the new year!
@ oh it’s not your fault at all, it’s amazing how big the system is. The fault lies with my brain who just shuts down whenever i try to figure out which parts i need 🙂
this seems like a gaint waste of money and time. Its something desined in cad with no thought of utuility
(kinda like gridfinity )
So much pointless filler in this video