If you need to pull the electro magnetic, it’s pressed on. I was able to unmount the compressor and position it to get a 2 jaw puller on the magnet to pull it. I was able to tap the new one in place carefully with a small ball peen
Mine was held on with another lock ring. Then it just about fell off. 2007 5.9. But he's right about the two tabs holding down the wiring. They are on top of the compressor, one at the front and one at the back. Not impossible for my game plan as I pulled the 4 bolts and tilted the compressor down.
It's also worth mentioning that the 2003 Dodge Ram factory service manual states that the clutch air gap should be between .016' and .031". The 2003 also retains the clutch with a nut instead of a bolt like the clutch shown in this video. The torque for the nut is 11-15 ft-lbs.
I have a 2003 Dodge 3500 Cummins. Your compressor has a tapped hole on the end and that retains the clutch. My compressor shaft is longer and a hex nut retains the clutch. This makes it a pain to remove the snap ring because the compressor shaft is in the way. I had to remove the four air compressor bolts and rotate it down so I could use snap ring pliers with straight tips. The angled tips cannot be used because of the compressor shaft protrudes out so far. The ID bearing for your pulley has a slip fit with the compressor shaft journal. Mine has a press fit so it can't be installed in the truck. After all that, I had to pull the compressor so I could press on the pulley.
I am working with a 2008 Ram 3500 6.7. It looks similer to this 2007. The AC compressor on my truck is OEM. The electromagnetic is NOT held in with a snap ring on my compressor. I took the Phillips screw out of the front and removed the christmas tree that holds the wire down at the rear (good luck). This will allow the electromagnetic to simply be prided off the compressor shaft. I took the 4 compressor bolts loose so I could visually inspect how the electromagnetic is held in before I discovered it's simply a press fit. So the compressor can likely stay bolted up and the electromagnetic can still be removed. Hope this is helpful to others.
@@MalarkeyTaylor Did you check voltage with the ac on at the compressor connector? Mine is only showing 8 volts with the ac selected on. I believe that is a problem. My electromagnetic is showing open circuit, which is obviously why the clutch won't engage. But with only 8 volts I'm wondering if that's what may have fried the electromagnetic. Do you know if your 2007 has an ac relay in the engine fuse box? That is my next issue to contend with.
@@davidsine4390 my ac was fully functional when I changed the clutch. The bearing that the pulley rides on went bad, but the clutch was still working properly. If you’re not getting good voltage I would suggest looking for the relay or checking the clutch connectors for corrosion. I know the TIPM is in control of almost all the functions under the hood so if there is not a relay on there it could be something wrong with the TIPM itself. Also I would be carefully about using voltage as the indicator of function. There could be “sense” voltage (low voltage low amperage) on the circuit that allows some computers to sense if the part is functional that would change to a full load when the pump is calling. I.e. make sure that the computer/system is trying to tell the Pump to run and not just checking to see if it’s there.
OK. So once I pried off the coil, (no snap ring holds it on), I replaced it with the new coil from the kit. I ended up getting the biggest C clamp at HF, 8 inch. Using a large washer the diameter of the coil more or less, inside diameter of the washer big enough to clear the compressor shaft, and a small washer to fill the hole on the large washer, I used the C clamp to press the new coil on. I needed a second washer near the end, but two washers won't go on right away. C clamp isn't long enough for the second washer until the coil starts to seat partially. The main issue is the threads on the clamp, 8 inches of threads are too long to fit between the pump and radiator. So I cut the excess threads off of the C clamp. Then used vice grips to turn it, being careful to stay at the end so I only screw up the threads that won't go into the clamp. An air hammer and a flat attachment might have also worked but I'm not sure if that would damage the coil or not. Didn't want to risk it. I'm sure there might be an easier way, like replacing the entire compressor obviously, but my way worked. The C clamp was cheap so I don't care if it's now a pretty much dedicated tool. In order to do this, the compressor has to be unbolted and loose so it can be tilted down, but the whole point obviously is it doesn't have to be completely removed so the lines can stay attached. A regular hammer would likely work too, but there just isn't enough room to swing it. Plus its just not effective when the compressor is unbolted and just hanging by its hoses in the back. Off the truck it wouldn't be an issue at all obviously. I also put some grease on the compressor flange to help the coil slide during installation. Hope this is helpful to others.
A humongous thanks for the video! Very informative. I was going to take it in to a mechanic but this showed me that it is a relative easy DIY. Was wondering what size socket needed for the center bolt, but a little trial and error will get it.
I have a 07 250k miles auto. I have a weird metal grinding noise coming from motor area, no a/c at all. Just changed fan clutch and still no A/C. Should i move onto this compressor clutch video? or any tips?
It certainly would be worth looking at the a/c pump, mine would make a metal and metal grinding noise when it would try to run, but over time, if left on checked it could escalate to running all the time. Certainly should be a stop in the trouble shooting process. Try taking the belt off and see if there is side play in the compressor pulley.
@@MalarkeyTaylor I will do this on wednesday, right now there is a metal grinding noise constantly coming from the truck's engine bay area. Sounds like something is dry or a bearing. Definitely not the motor i can tell that and every fluid is up to fill line. 250k miles.
Mine is squealing the entire time and doesn’t change with or without AC on or off I have a new belt and new tensioner all other bearings seem ok does this sound familiar to you was your issue similar?
So sorry the different years and engine types have different results. If you have the same truck as mine you’re looking for one like this but check to make sure it fits your exact model before ordering. www.ebay.com/itm/264160505935
I'm glad mines on top not the bottom, I have to do this tomorrow, mines make a loud noise and I can see it wiggle a bit, then to day it got real loud the front Plat was hanging by one bolt.
I have a Dodge Ram 1500 07 i think something is wrong with my ac clutch but I’m not sure, it makes a rattling noise and when I first noticed the sound I pulled over and it stank of burned rubber so I’m not 100% sure what it is any recommendations?
You got it. If the bearing and clutch are what is gone bad this works great to keep the refrigerant and not have to open up the system to make the pump work again. It’s not one size fits all for all possible failures, but it worked great for me.
thanks @@MalarkeyTaylor yesterday i start to disembly, but my problem is in the coil with no resistance enought, i think i need to take out the coil , do you know if have some bolt or something? thanks i really apprecciate your help
@@fabricioagustinonboard4844 I think it’s just a press fit. So it may take some prying and creativity to get it out while in the truck because of that and the wire routing.
So, what noise was it making before you did all this? Obviously I am trying to diagnose a similar problem. I have an intermittent belt squeak engine cold. Turned into a tiny clank tonight engine warm. It seems this might be the issue. Fuse checks out. Not my daily driver so I'm not real familiar.
the noise it made before this was a weird whirring noise and what sounded like someone dragging their feet on concrete. When i looked under the truck i could see that when the engine was idling or running the AC compressor was spinning even when the AC was set to off. the noise would change its pitch and tune when the compressor would make a few rotations. then stop spinning. The noise would then go back to the more dull noise. the other thing I noticed was a lot of rusty metal dust around the AC compressor. It looked like brake dust collected all over the area around the compressor.
@@MalarkeyTaylor Your compressor clutch is toast. Better get it replaced if it hasn't already gotten worse. If the compressor goes completely you're looking at replacing a lot more parts. Just took ours to the shop and that's the case.
When you buy a full new or rebuild compressor they usually come with the clutch installed. The clutch like I have in this video can be purchased separately for some makes and models. I was able to find this one that matched for this 2007 dodge. But I have not been able to find just the clutch for a 1999 Jeep. Seems to be hit or miss. Hope that answered your question.
@@MalarkeyTaylor thanks I appreciate it I have a 07 dodge aswell. So for the 07 dodge you bought the clutch separately instead of having to buy the compressor and the clutch combo?
@@sagevargas1358 yes, I found the part on eBay I believe. Local parts houses didn’t have it and I didn’t check with the dealer but my local dodge dealer is a bit of a joke so eBay was a small gamble but it paid off.
I lost the clutch on the road,I bought the whole kit on eBay for $52.this video it’s been a big help,waiting on parts,to start the showtime,thanks.
Glad it helped! Good luck with the repairs!
excellent video. good quality and very clear on details on each step. Thanks. in the middle of this project right now.
If you need to pull the electro magnetic, it’s pressed on. I was able to unmount the compressor and position it to get a 2 jaw puller on the magnet to pull it. I was able to tap the new one in place carefully with a small ball peen
Mine was held on with another lock ring. Then it just about fell off. 2007 5.9. But he's right about the two tabs holding down the wiring. They are on top of the compressor, one at the front and one at the back. Not impossible for my game plan as I pulled the 4 bolts and tilted the compressor down.
It's also worth mentioning that the 2003 Dodge Ram factory service manual states that the clutch air gap should be between .016' and .031". The 2003 also retains the clutch with a nut instead of a bolt like the clutch shown in this video. The torque for the nut is 11-15 ft-lbs.
Great info!
I have a 2003 Dodge 3500 Cummins. Your compressor has a tapped hole on the end and that retains the clutch. My compressor shaft is longer and a hex nut retains the clutch. This makes it a pain to remove the snap ring because the compressor shaft is in the way. I had to remove the four air compressor bolts and rotate it down so I could use snap ring pliers with straight tips. The angled tips cannot be used because of the compressor shaft protrudes out so far. The ID bearing for your pulley has a slip fit with the compressor shaft journal. Mine has a press fit so it can't be installed in the truck. After all that, I had to pull the compressor so I could press on the pulley.
I am working with a 2008 Ram 3500 6.7. It looks similer to this 2007. The AC compressor on my truck is OEM. The electromagnetic is NOT held in with a snap ring on my compressor. I took the Phillips screw out of the front and removed the christmas tree that holds the wire down at the rear (good luck). This will allow the electromagnetic to simply be prided off the compressor shaft. I took the 4 compressor bolts loose so I could visually inspect how the electromagnetic is held in before I discovered it's simply a press fit. So the compressor can likely stay bolted up and the electromagnetic can still be removed. Hope this is helpful to others.
That’s good to know!
Thanks for the feedback!
@@MalarkeyTaylor Did you check voltage with the ac on at the compressor connector? Mine is only showing 8 volts with the ac selected on. I believe that is a problem. My electromagnetic is showing open circuit, which is obviously why the clutch won't engage. But with only 8 volts I'm wondering if that's what may have fried the electromagnetic. Do you know if your 2007 has an ac relay in the engine fuse box? That is my next issue to contend with.
@@davidsine4390 my ac was fully functional when I changed the clutch. The bearing that the pulley rides on went bad, but the clutch was still working properly.
If you’re not getting good voltage I would suggest looking for the relay or checking the clutch connectors for corrosion. I know the TIPM is in control of almost all the functions under the hood so if there is not a relay on there it could be something wrong with the TIPM itself.
Also I would be carefully about using voltage as the indicator of function. There could be “sense” voltage (low voltage low amperage) on the circuit that allows some computers to sense if the part is functional that would change to a full load when the pump is calling.
I.e. make sure that the computer/system is trying to tell the Pump to run and not just checking to see if it’s there.
@@MalarkeyTaylor Thanks for the reply. If I find out anything more I will post back. Appreciate the video.
OK. So once I pried off the coil, (no snap ring holds it on), I replaced it with the new coil from the kit. I ended up getting the biggest C clamp at HF, 8 inch. Using a large washer the diameter of the coil more or less, inside diameter of the washer big enough to clear the compressor shaft, and a small washer to fill the hole on the large washer, I used the C clamp to press the new coil on. I needed a second washer near the end, but two washers won't go on right away. C clamp isn't long enough for the second washer until the coil starts to seat partially. The main issue is the threads on the clamp, 8 inches of threads are too long to fit between the pump and radiator. So I cut the excess threads off of the C clamp. Then used vice grips to turn it, being careful to stay at the end so I only screw up the threads that won't go into the clamp. An air hammer and a flat attachment might have also worked but I'm not sure if that would damage the coil or not. Didn't want to risk it. I'm sure there might be an easier way, like replacing the entire compressor obviously, but my way worked. The C clamp was cheap so I don't care if it's now a pretty much dedicated tool. In order to do this, the compressor has to be unbolted and loose so it can be tilted down, but the whole point obviously is it doesn't have to be completely removed so the lines can stay attached. A regular hammer would likely work too, but there just isn't enough room to swing it. Plus its just not effective when the compressor is unbolted and just hanging by its hoses in the back. Off the truck it wouldn't be an issue at all obviously. I also put some grease on the compressor flange to help the coil slide during installation. Hope this is helpful to others.
A humongous thanks for the video! Very informative. I was going to take it in to a mechanic but this showed me that it is a relative easy DIY. Was wondering what size socket needed for the center bolt, but a little trial and error will get it.
And the size was???
Great video. I’m about to take on this project. Much appreciated.
Good luck! Hope this helps you be successful!
Your video was a big help. Thanks.
Trying this project this weekend. I hope it helps with the a/c.
Good luck!
I have a 07 250k miles auto. I have a weird metal grinding noise coming from motor area, no a/c at all. Just changed fan clutch and still no A/C. Should i move onto this compressor clutch video? or any tips?
It certainly would be worth looking at the a/c pump, mine would make a metal and metal grinding noise when it would try to run, but over time, if left on checked it could escalate to running all the time.
Certainly should be a stop in the trouble shooting process. Try taking the belt off and see if there is side play in the compressor pulley.
@@MalarkeyTaylor I will do this on wednesday, right now there is a metal grinding noise constantly coming from the truck's engine bay area. Sounds like something is dry or a bearing. Definitely not the motor i can tell that and every fluid is up to fill line. 250k miles.
Is that a SADEN or DENSO a/c compressor?
I don’t know. Sorry.
Mine is squealing the entire time and doesn’t change with or without AC on or off I have a new belt and new tensioner all other bearings seem ok does this sound familiar to you was your issue similar?
It does. However mine was making a growl or grinding noise that would mostly go away when the compressor would run.
great video thanks but i will always replace the coil it's the single most likely to fail component on these Ac systems
Really? I think the bearings are much more likely to fail first.
I was really hoping for a vendor name and part number for the kit you located. Im getting mixed results and a poor number of hits during a search.
So sorry the different years and engine types have different results.
If you have the same truck as mine you’re looking for one like this but check to make sure it fits your exact model before ordering.
www.ebay.com/itm/264160505935
@@MalarkeyTaylor Thanks for the fast reply! that is the one!
I'm glad mines on top not the bottom, I have to do this tomorrow, mines make a loud noise and I can see it wiggle a bit, then to day it got real loud the front Plat was hanging by one bolt.
Good luck! I hope it goes well!
@MalarkeyTaylor me too, it dont look to hard. Just hope I usecthe right washer. Lol
Of course mine was so broke the flange that holds the first snap ring in is broke, just my luck
@@DTWC aww that’s a bummer!
Thank you for the video. Much easier than I thought it would be.
Glad you found it helpful! good luck with your A/C clutch!
I have a Dodge Ram 1500 07 i think something is wrong with my ac clutch but I’m not sure, it makes a rattling noise and when I first noticed the sound I pulled over and it stank of burned rubber so I’m not 100% sure what it is any recommendations?
Sounds like there could be something wrong there. Its really hard to say without seeing it in action.
Thanks brother great video
men you rock! its the best way to dont loose the GAS , is that ok? or take out the compressor , thanks for your help
You got it. If the bearing and clutch are what is gone bad this works great to keep the refrigerant and not have to open up the system to make the pump work again.
It’s not one size fits all for all possible failures, but it worked great for me.
thanks @@MalarkeyTaylor yesterday i start to disembly, but my problem is in the coil with no resistance enought, i think i need to take out the coil , do you know if have some bolt or something? thanks i really apprecciate your help
@@fabricioagustinonboard4844 I think it’s just a press fit. So it may take some prying and creativity to get it out while in the truck because of that and the wire routing.
@@MalarkeyTaylor thanks for your time i really aprecciate your words and video sorry for my english !!
Thanks for this video. Saved me lots of $$$!
Glad it helped!
If you didn’t have that bolt in your bolt bin.. how would you have removed the clutch plate?
Take the new piece to the hardware store and find a bolt that fits.
Or use a screw driver around the edges and pry the plate off the splines.
So, what noise was it making before you did all this? Obviously I am trying to diagnose a similar problem. I have an intermittent belt squeak engine cold. Turned into a tiny clank tonight engine warm. It seems this might be the issue. Fuse checks out. Not my daily driver so I'm not real familiar.
the noise it made before this was a weird whirring noise and what sounded like someone dragging their feet on concrete. When i looked under the truck i could see that when the engine was idling or running the AC compressor was spinning even when the AC was set to off. the noise would change its pitch and tune when the compressor would make a few rotations. then stop spinning. The noise would then go back to the more dull noise. the other thing I noticed was a lot of rusty metal dust around the AC compressor. It looked like brake dust collected all over the area around the compressor.
@@MalarkeyTaylor Your compressor clutch is toast. Better get it replaced if it hasn't already gotten worse. If the compressor goes completely you're looking at replacing a lot more parts. Just took ours to the shop and that's the case.
@@chloesamclutch this video is me replacing my compressor clutch. 😜
What size and thread pitch is the bolt you used to push off the clutch form the pulley?
I'm sorry I just now saw the comment, I do not know the pitch and thread of the bolt. I just found one sitting in my bolt bin.
muduck18 no problem. I got it taken care of. Thanks
Do they make a kit that you bought for the 04 dodge Dakota
Sorry I do not know if they make a kit for that truck.
Great video.... thank you...
Glad you liked it! I hope it helped you!
Is the ac compressor and the ac clutch to separate parts or are they one part?
When you buy a full new or rebuild compressor they usually come with the clutch installed. The clutch like I have in this video can be purchased separately for some makes and models. I was able to find this one that matched for this 2007 dodge. But I have not been able to find just the clutch for a 1999 Jeep. Seems to be hit or miss.
Hope that answered your question.
@@MalarkeyTaylor thanks I appreciate it I have a 07 dodge aswell. So for the 07 dodge you bought the clutch separately instead of having to buy the compressor and the clutch combo?
@@sagevargas1358 yes, I found the part on eBay I believe. Local parts houses didn’t have it and I didn’t check with the dealer but my local dodge dealer is a bit of a joke so eBay was a small gamble but it paid off.
@@MalarkeyTaylor thanks man 👍🤘
Thank you
Where did you purchase the compressor clutch kit from
lucky for me, my 2006 a/c is right on top of the motor and out in the open,,,
Get a tri pod or some help
Thanks for the feedback, I've been trying to do better. Most of my newer Videos have Tripod and help...
What pitch thread was the bolt you used ?
Sorry, I do not know. I just dug through a misc bolt bin and found one that fit.