Thank you for this video! It saved me hours of trying to get the carb off for the first time. Great camera work and very clear explanation of what you are doing. Keep up the good work!
Hard to say this and not sound rude, but please try and understand. I'm Retired, having tinkered and repaired just about everything around me home for decades. I got the confidence from 30yrs as an Auto tech and 12v business owner. Anyway, I appreciate the information presented in your videos as it often unlocks the simple oversights that cause frustration in solving an issue. That said - I cannot for the life of me get comfortable(or focus on the repair) watching a Down Mounted Camera. *We are by design much more comfortable looking from a natural point of eye contact in the way one would be approaching the repair.
Thank You for your input, I couldn't agree more. What you're watching are actual repairs done while on the clock at work. My employer allows me to hang a camera over the bench and turn it on during repairs. Thats it. I can't present these repairs in any way that eats up company time. Thats also why you never see outside shots testing equipment. Sometimes I grab the camera and zoom in on something but i really shouldn't even be doing that. I point this out every so often but I'm sure the bulk of my viewers have no idea whats really happening here. In my mind it kinda changes the whole perspective from a "teaching" video to something else. I wish I knew of a good way to make this point clear to new viewers in each video rather than just a blurb on my home page. Thanks for watching!
Exactly. And close up views would be a great help in "seeing" linkage hookups as well. This was more of a "this is what i did", instead of "this is how you do this".
Great video. My 445 is now very difficult to start after about 12 years of service. Two questions please. Think I should change the fuel lines as well? Will that replacement carb run correctly right out of the box? Thanks again!
If it's getting hard to start after 12 long years of service , id suspect two possible causes, one being the fuel pump diaphram inside the carb might be very weak and you need a simple carb rebuild , or just replace it cause they are only like $30-40 bucks for an OEM carb, second other possible cause would be that it's at this point worn out and is rather low on compression , eseentially needing a rebuild , or replace the saw , what ever you prefer. Based on the age of your saw those are to me the most likely two causes if this problem slowly has worsened to the point it is now over a longer period of time. Could however be as simple as in need of a tune up, but I'm assuming you maintain your saw properly and therefore tune up is not the likely cause , if youve poorly maintained it however , a simple tune up very well actually could be the possible reason for your trouble starting. Btw if you haven't replaced your fuel lines then you sure as heck should do them asap as replacing them is very long since passed overdue , I replace mine on my saws and all other machines every 3-4 years max. And as for does a new carb come ready to install and go , no they do not, if you do by an OEM carb though it should come with the Lo and Hi side jets and throttle screw set to where you usually can get it to at least start and idle , but in all cases the carb needs to be fine tuned properly once you getting it running and warmed up , if you dont know how then you absolutely need to hire a competant small engine repair shop to tune it properly for you, which should only run you the cost of half an hours labor charge at the very most as it shouldnt take them any longer than 20-30 minutes to properly tune your new carb for you with a proper tachometer. Good luck with your saw and hope this helps at least a little bit
Great video. Followed your steps to swap a new carb into my 450. No issues with the install But the saw idles very high and won’t slow down even with the T screw all the way out New gas new filter new plug Any ideas what’s causing the problem?
An air leak will cause a high idle and eventually ruin the engine. In a shop we would pressure/vacuum test it. You might be able to find it by using a can of carb cleaner, spraying around looking for the rpm to change.
@@TheGreasyShopRag yep- spraying cleaner on the clutch side down by the crankcase stalled the saw. I’ve pulled it apart and found the seals look messed up. New ones arrive on Tuesday so keeping fingers crossed that will solve the problem. Thanks!
The repair worked perfectly. Idles nicely now esp after tweaking the low speed screw on the carb. Very pleased with the outcome considering how much disassembly was needed. And the best part of all- I didn’t have any extra parts once reassembled! Thanks for your help.
What was the reason for the carburetor replacement? Normally I see you open up the fuel and metering sides to see if you can service them, a new OEM carburetor is pricey. As always, it's a pleasure watching you troubleshoot and repair equipment on the Greasy Rag.
Because the purge bulb wasn't working it was suspected that the main jet check valve was bad. In these cases we just replace the carb. It was previously discussed with the customer about labor times and they agreed just to bolt a new carb on. I repair most of my carbs. On the 4 cycle side of the shop their policy is if the carb replacement cost is more than $75 then they clean/rebuild, otherwise they replace. Its all about the labor.
There was a time where every saw model had a unique carb. But Husqvarna uses mass produced inexpensive ZAMA & Walbro carbs, and the same carb is often used on many models within a 5cc range. I recently replaced my 440 carb that was starving for fuel. It was likely just the metering diaphragm. The kit was $6. A new carb was $10 on sale, or $20 with both fuel lines, bulb & fuel filter. It took me 15 minutes to swap it out but experienced guys can swap a 440 carb out in 5 minutes. Completely cleaning up, rebuilding & pressure testing a carb is tedious and takes time. And because saws are filthy beasts, a microscopic grain of debris can sneak inside during a rebuild and ruin your day. Not worth it.
I don't remember exactly on this one but typically if I dive straight into replacement its usually because the carb is really inexpensive or because thats what the customer requested.
My 450 is filling the cylinder with fuel and coming out of the exhaust. Metering diaphragm? Im fairly mechanically inclined, if so should I swap the part myself or should a professional. Thank you!
Possibly a stiff metering diaphragm or bad needle. Remember, that flooding may be the result of no spark, sheared flywheel key or other problem like an air leak or low compression. If you want to open the carb for a look I'd say go for it. Take pics before disassembly if needed. It already doesn't run, you can't make it worse 🙂
@@TheGreasyShopRag Thanks alot for the quick reply. The saw sat for a year + and has been running flawless then I noticed it had fuel coming out the exhaust then after it sit for a day or 2 the pull cord wouldn't hardly budge. Pulled the plug and poured the fuel out. Runs fine now as long as I keep it running wide open and have to drop start it with hand on throttle.
@@TheMrbearhunter1those carbs are under $30 , if you take a chance on the carb being the cause , it will fix the prob , and if it dont , well then you only threw an unnecessary not even $30 measly dollars at it.
I have a PB251 Echo blower. It’s acting like a vacuum lock. Plug is white. Tank vent was ok but replaced with new. Runs great for 1-2 minutes. Then I have to unscrew cap. Took off pump side of carb and it is clean. Have not the primer side. Trying to think before doing. Any ideas?
@@TheGreasyShopRag normally speeds up. That’s why I thought a vacuum lock. Black carb plugs were removed and all the way out. New metering diaphragm. Everything has helped but still speeds up when cap is removed.
@@steveriggenbach90 You've watched enough of my videos to know to check the contents of the fuel tank, pressure test the fuel line and look into the cylinder. I'm not comfortable guessing what might be wrong without knowing these things are good. It could be as simple as a dirty fuel filter.
@@TheGreasyShopRag thanks I understand. I’ll be waiting for next video. My gas. New filters. Lines are in great shape. Been through the carb. Checked coil. Checked compression. Spark plug ok. Jug and piston ok. Possibly pressure test in future. Like doing brain surgery over the phone. Thanks for the responses. I keep trying to think better , never did just change parts. Take care, I’ll be watching and learning.
I forgot to add it has 120-125 psi compression. Could it be getting weak when running and getting hot? Just took off and replaced. Decent shape had a short nub. If you flip, like a chainsaw, it speeds up. Maybe needs new shaft seals.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on the video. My employer allows me to hang a camera over my workbench while doing repairs. He's not paying me to make videos so I'm grateful to be able to get any footage at all. Is there something you are having trouble with while trying to perform this repair? Maybe I can help.
There is nothing I dislike about this video. Love the format. Love the tunes. Love the advice. A+ Thanks bud.
Thank you for this video! It saved me hours of trying to get the carb off for the first time.
Great camera work and very clear explanation of what you are doing.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks and thanks for watching!
Catching up on some older vids. I love your vids because they a both quick and detailed. Great commentary too.
Thanks for taking the time to watch!
Hard to say this and not sound rude, but please try and understand.
I'm Retired, having tinkered and repaired just about everything around me home for decades. I got the confidence from 30yrs as an Auto tech and 12v business owner.
Anyway, I appreciate the information presented in your videos as it often unlocks the simple oversights that cause frustration in solving an issue.
That said - I cannot for the life of me get comfortable(or focus on the repair) watching a Down Mounted Camera.
*We are by design much more comfortable looking from a natural point of eye contact in the way one would be approaching the repair.
Thank You for your input, I couldn't agree more. What you're watching are actual repairs done while on the clock at work. My employer allows me to hang a camera over the bench and turn it on during repairs. Thats it. I can't present these repairs in any way that eats up company time. Thats also why you never see outside shots testing equipment. Sometimes I grab the camera and zoom in on something but i really shouldn't even be doing that.
I point this out every so often but I'm sure the bulk of my viewers have no idea whats really happening here. In my mind it kinda changes the whole perspective from a "teaching" video to something else. I wish I knew of a good way to make this point clear to new viewers in each video rather than just a blurb on my home page. Thanks for watching!
Exactly. And close up views would be a great help in "seeing" linkage hookups as well. This was more of a "this is what i did", instead of "this is how you do this".
Great video!
Thanks for watching!
Great video. My 445 is now very difficult to start after about 12 years of service. Two questions please. Think I should change the fuel lines as well? Will that replacement carb run correctly right out of the box? Thanks again!
If it's getting hard to start after 12 long years of service , id suspect two possible causes, one being the fuel pump diaphram inside the carb might be very weak and you need a simple carb rebuild , or just replace it cause they are only like $30-40 bucks for an OEM carb, second other possible cause would be that it's at this point worn out and is rather low on compression , eseentially needing a rebuild , or replace the saw , what ever you prefer. Based on the age of your saw those are to me the most likely two causes if this problem slowly has worsened to the point it is now over a longer period of time. Could however be as simple as in need of a tune up, but I'm assuming you maintain your saw properly and therefore tune up is not the likely cause , if youve poorly maintained it however , a simple tune up very well actually could be the possible reason for your trouble starting. Btw if you haven't replaced your fuel lines then you sure as heck should do them asap as replacing them is very long since passed overdue , I replace mine on my saws and all other machines every 3-4 years max. And as for does a new carb come ready to install and go , no they do not, if you do by an OEM carb though it should come with the Lo and Hi side jets and throttle screw set to where you usually can get it to at least start and idle , but in all cases the carb needs to be fine tuned properly once you getting it running and warmed up , if you dont know how then you absolutely need to hire a competant small engine repair shop to tune it properly for you, which should only run you the cost of half an hours labor charge at the very most as it shouldnt take them any longer than 20-30 minutes to properly tune your new carb for you with a proper tachometer. Good luck with your saw and hope this helps at least a little bit
Great video. Followed your steps to swap a new carb into my 450. No issues with the install But the saw idles very high and won’t slow down even with the T screw all the way out New gas new filter new plug Any ideas what’s causing the problem?
An air leak will cause a high idle and eventually ruin the engine. In a shop we would pressure/vacuum test it. You might be able to find it by using a can of carb cleaner, spraying around looking for the rpm to change.
@@TheGreasyShopRag yep- spraying cleaner on the clutch side down by the crankcase stalled the saw. I’ve pulled it apart and found the seals look messed up. New ones arrive on Tuesday so keeping fingers crossed that will solve the problem. Thanks!
@@Bronxtalebronco Good luck with the repair!
The repair worked perfectly. Idles nicely now esp after tweaking the low speed screw on the carb. Very pleased with the outcome considering how much disassembly was needed. And the best part of all- I didn’t have any extra parts once reassembled! Thanks for your help.
@@Bronxtalebronco Good job fixing that saw!
nice short direct and sweet .
Thanks for watching!
Twice in a month you helped me!
Thanks for watching!
What was the reason for the carburetor replacement? Normally I see you open up the fuel and metering sides to see if you can service them, a new OEM carburetor is pricey. As always, it's a pleasure watching you troubleshoot and repair equipment on the Greasy Rag.
Because the purge bulb wasn't working it was suspected that the main jet check valve was bad. In these cases we just replace the carb. It was previously discussed with the customer about labor times and they agreed just to bolt a new carb on. I repair most of my carbs. On the 4 cycle side of the shop their policy is if the carb replacement cost is more than $75 then they clean/rebuild, otherwise they replace. Its all about the labor.
There was a time where every saw model had a unique carb. But Husqvarna uses mass produced inexpensive ZAMA & Walbro carbs, and the same carb is often used on many models within a 5cc range.
I recently replaced my 440 carb that was starving for fuel. It was likely just the metering diaphragm. The kit was $6. A new carb was $10 on sale, or $20 with both fuel lines, bulb & fuel filter. It took me 15 minutes to swap it out but experienced guys can swap a 440 carb out in 5 minutes. Completely cleaning up, rebuilding & pressure testing a carb is tedious and takes time. And because saws are filthy beasts, a microscopic grain of debris can sneak inside during a rebuild and ruin your day. Not worth it.
Fantastic. Someone gave me an older model. I needs some tips. What size squenches do you use ?
3/4 x 5/8 with flat tip on end is my favorite.
Nice video. Not too fast. 👍
Thanks for watching!
I took mine apart and forgot which wire goes to which (blue v black). Any advice you have on figuring this out after the fact?
I assume it works fine because it shouldn't matter which way they are installed.
Blue wire goes on the spade terminal closest to the outside of the saws body, black wire goes on the inner terminal.
Zoom in!
I'll try to do better.
How did you decide the carb needed replacing versus rebuilt?
I don't remember exactly on this one but typically if I dive straight into replacement its usually because the carb is really inexpensive or because thats what the customer requested.
Why did you swap carb ? Is it bigger or same size ?
Its the same size carb. The video just shows how to replace a carb if you buy a new one as opposed to rebuilding your old one. Thanks for watching!
My 450 is filling the cylinder with fuel and coming out of the exhaust. Metering diaphragm? Im fairly mechanically inclined, if so should I swap the part myself or should a professional. Thank you!
Possibly a stiff metering diaphragm or bad needle. Remember, that flooding may be the result of no spark, sheared flywheel key or other problem like an air leak or low compression. If you want to open the carb for a look I'd say go for it. Take pics before disassembly if needed. It already doesn't run, you can't make it worse 🙂
@@TheGreasyShopRag Thanks alot for the quick reply. The saw sat for a year + and has been running flawless then I noticed it had fuel coming out the exhaust then after it sit for a day or 2 the pull cord wouldn't hardly budge. Pulled the plug and poured the fuel out. Runs fine now as long as I keep it running wide open and have to drop start it with hand on throttle.
@@TheMrbearhunter1 Yes sounds like the carb needs attention.
@@TheMrbearhunter1those carbs are under $30 , if you take a chance on the carb being the cause , it will fix the prob , and if it dont , well then you only threw an unnecessary not even $30 measly dollars at it.
Wow 😮😮
I have a PB251 Echo blower. It’s acting like a vacuum lock. Plug is white. Tank vent was ok but replaced with new. Runs great for 1-2 minutes. Then I have to unscrew cap. Took off pump side of carb and it is clean. Have not the primer side. Trying to think before doing. Any ideas?
If you unscrew the cap well before it normally dies, does it still die?
@@TheGreasyShopRag normally speeds up. That’s why I thought a vacuum lock. Black carb plugs were removed and all the way out. New metering diaphragm. Everything has helped but still speeds up when cap is removed.
@@steveriggenbach90 You've watched enough of my videos to know to check the contents of the fuel tank, pressure test the fuel line and look into the cylinder. I'm not comfortable guessing what might be wrong without knowing these things are good. It could be as simple as a dirty fuel filter.
@@TheGreasyShopRag thanks I understand. I’ll be waiting for next video. My gas. New filters. Lines are in great shape. Been through the carb. Checked coil. Checked compression. Spark plug ok. Jug and piston ok. Possibly pressure test in future. Like doing brain surgery over the phone. Thanks for the responses. I keep trying to think better , never did just change parts. Take care, I’ll be watching and learning.
Is that joe phoney massa playing??
I forgot to add it has 120-125 psi compression. Could it be getting weak when running and getting hot? Just took off and replaced. Decent shape had a short nub. If you flip, like a chainsaw, it speeds up. Maybe needs new shaft seals.
Always make sure to slam whatever you are working on down on the bench several times to let people know you mean buisness.
You disapprove?
Next time just film from across the room.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on the video. My employer allows me to hang a camera over my workbench while doing repairs. He's not paying me to make videos so I'm grateful to be able to get any footage at all. Is there something you are having trouble with while trying to perform this repair? Maybe I can help.
be a better video without having to see you the whole time
You could put a posty note over my face.