Finally a video without all the drama, inane music, barking dogs, jerky video, bad sound and confusing explanations. Well done! Was exactly what I needed. Thank you!
This is EXACTLY what I needed! thank you so much! I just bought a 1970 VW Transporter and I know nothing about cars so this helped me see everything and visualize what I need to do. THANK YOU!
Thanks mate! It can be a fiddly job, so you can always mark you distributor and remove it to set the points or replace them. Then reinstall and time the engine 👍 Cheers! Ricky
Also check your timing after changing the breaker gap. Timing may change and can result in less performance or overheating the engine. Always check breaker gap and then check timing!
Thank you so much for you kind comnent! I started this channel to put out concise, quick, easy to follow videos that don’t contain any fluff. Most of us when needing to watch a video are in the garage, half covered in grease, cold and hungry, just wanting to solve an issue on our VW. Thanks mate! I’ll be bringing some more videos out soon 😎
Very informative, but you didn't mention adding a dab of Grease on the Rotor Cam - to reduce wear on the Point Rubbing Block. I heard that's very important, and using the correct type of Grease is important as well. Thank You.
if you pull the distributor cap and find this much oil film on your contact set and everything else is soaked like this one,you have worn distributor shaft bushings and it has blowby coming thru the shaft bushings,go ahead and clean it with brake clean and blow it out,set the points like this man instructs and get a new distributor coming in the mail,other wise it will fail,in the worse possible time,little hint,been there done that,thanks for the tutorial
Thanks that’s a great point well made. I’m currently amongst a top end rebuild, so will be most likely swapping this old dizzy for something a bit more reliable. Thanks for watching!
for those of you just get started on maint. pitting points is caused by wrong or def. condenser so do not just keep changing points or cleaning them get correct cond.they are rated in mfd's go to VW dealer for correct condenser better spark less damage to points
the reason gap in points is so important --- the sec .the points open the gd. is lifted off the points this starts current flow thru the coil into the cond,to gd that current flow in the coil causes the magnetic on secondary winding due to turns ratio to greate very high voltage that flows to dist rotor to proper spark plug so pitting points changes gap setting effecting the high voltage to dist.
Does one need to place the rotor arm back in the same direction as when u removed it first,..prior to turning engine over to finding the highside of the cam. ?
With Golf MK1, the platinum buttons do not fit like that. You do not set it to 040mm immediately, but only when you install the upper plate with two screws, because the plate widens the contacts. As you have done, the gap will be at least 0.65mm. The plate must be installed, after that is yet to be measured, or on the removed plate the gap should be 0.20-0.25 mm, by installing it - the gap will be increased by itself, from reaching. That's what my practice says.
Check your points first to make sure they are flat. Some points burn in and have dents and marks and the points need to be replaced. Using feeler gauges with marked points may result in too much clearance. If your points burn in very fast, then check the condenser. Bad condensers often result in high wear of your points.
defective or wrong value (mfd's) condenser will not allow voltage to pass thru to gd so the voltage gos to the points jumps to gd thru open points causing pitting normaly there is no current flow thru points al they are used for is lifting gd off condenser lead as they go open.
Looks easy understand now 🏆 📹 close up clear 👌 👍 Will be BRAVE 💪 💋😘 Project is on my old 1977 Toyota 20 R engine 🛻 pick up. A Chinook RV. Putting new fail safe thermostat & gasket. Cleaned flushed radiator. New water pump & gasket. New coolant. Adjusted carb idle & idle mix screws. Bought USA store, O' Reilly's Auto parts pre- gapped points....... Will see!? 👋 👍 👌
I’m shortly about to re-launch the channel with a new video series, and I’ll be exploring electronic ignition vs points in the first video. Electronic ignition does appear reliable and requires less maintenance than a regular points & condenser set up. More to come!
Stop rounding off all the tabs.... Close up the gap @ (.010), snug the screw. Put the feeler gauge in the contacts, slowly loosen the screw . The tension on the points will move it on base plate, giving you the gap. Those are 01-030 points, not 01-011 that came in it
Sorry for video how to set points get a feeler gauge percentage points looks like too much caffeine and this video clean the lobes on the distributor clean the dirt out of distributor check the vacuum advance if it has one and set the points easy as that not rocket science another way to is this your Gap is 16 thousands then a 15 will be loose and a 17 will be too tight 16 will be just right 😉
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Finally a video without all the drama, inane music, barking dogs, jerky video, bad sound and confusing explanations. Well done! Was exactly what I needed. Thank you!
100% agreed
This is EXACTLY what I needed! thank you so much! I just bought a 1970 VW Transporter and I know nothing about cars so this helped me see everything and visualize what I need to do. THANK YOU!
Thanks Brad!
Thanks for the great close up views. I was not aware of the two little dimples to lever off when adjusting.
Cheers Andy, glad it helped! 😎
By far the best video on UA-cam to explain this maintenance procedure!
Did you see that your feeler gauges were twisted and that’s why you felt drag and subsequently kept opening it?
Good spotting!
Best video on this! Thoroughly explained.
Thanks! I have a type IV engine but a running points right now! I wasn’t sure how to do this, now I know. Thanks again!
Excellent, thank you.
I appreciate how you showed that you adjusted twice, like I probably would need to.
Excellent.
Great video! I'm new at this and find it very fiddly in the car. Thanks for doing this on the bench - much clearer.
Thanks mate! It can be a fiddly job, so you can always mark you distributor and remove it to set the points or replace them. Then reinstall and time the engine 👍
Cheers!
Ricky
Thank you-- I haven't dealt with this since the mid-1980s, and never on a VW. Great video, saves me a ton of headache trying to remember.
Thanks mate, glad to be of some help!
Also check your timing after changing the breaker gap. Timing may change and can result in less performance or overheating the engine. Always check breaker gap and then check timing!
Great point!
Well done - Sick and tired of out of focus, shakey, very dark, 3 foot away from small object videos. Ya done well my lad, keep up the good work.
Thank you so much for you kind comnent! I started this channel to put out concise, quick, easy to follow videos that don’t contain any fluff. Most of us when needing to watch a video are in the garage, half covered in grease, cold and hungry, just wanting to solve an issue on our VW. Thanks mate! I’ll be bringing some more videos out soon 😎
Very informative, but you didn't mention adding a dab of Grease on the Rotor Cam - to reduce wear on the Point Rubbing Block. I heard that's very important, and using the correct type of Grease is important as well. Thank You.
White Lithium Grease
That’s a great point, and I did forget to demonstrate that. Cheers!
if you pull the distributor cap and find this much oil film on your contact set and everything else is soaked like this one,you have worn distributor shaft bushings and it has blowby coming thru the shaft bushings,go ahead and clean it with brake clean and blow it out,set the points like this man instructs and get a new distributor coming in the mail,other wise it will fail,in the worse possible time,little hint,been there done that,thanks for the tutorial
Thanks that’s a great point well made. I’m currently amongst a top end rebuild, so will be most likely swapping this old dizzy for something a bit more reliable. Thanks for watching!
for those of you just get started on maint. pitting points is caused by wrong or def. condenser so do not just keep changing points or cleaning them get correct cond.they are rated in mfd's go to VW dealer for correct condenser better spark less damage to points
the reason gap in points is so important --- the sec .the points open the gd. is lifted off the points this starts current flow thru the coil into the cond,to gd that current flow in the coil causes the magnetic on secondary winding due to turns ratio to greate very high voltage that flows to dist rotor to proper spark plug so pitting points changes gap setting effecting the high voltage to dist.
Very helpful! Perfect lens focus. Thank you so much!
Thanks Markus! I appreciate it!
This is the best I've seen. Very helpful. Thank you!
Thanks mate!
Haha...The best video I've have found.....Perfect
Thanks!
Perfect, thank you for a great and informative video!
Does one need to place the rotor arm back in the same direction as when u removed it first,..prior to turning engine over to finding the highside of the cam. ?
Exactly what I needed thanks
Really Really good 👍
With Golf MK1, the platinum buttons do not fit like that. You do not set it to 040mm immediately, but only when you install the upper plate with two screws, because the plate widens the contacts. As you have done, the gap will be at least 0.65mm. The plate must be installed, after that is yet to be measured, or on the removed plate the gap should be 0.20-0.25 mm, by installing it - the gap will be increased by itself, from reaching. That's what my practice says.
thanks right to the point i have a 66 bug, thx again
Just now seeing this video! I can’t believe that snake didn’t bite you 😂
😂
Heyyy thanks for the upload man really appreciate it:))
Not a problem mate!
Perfect tutorial. Thanks.
Thanks Ash!
Check your points first to make sure they are flat. Some points burn in and have dents and marks and the points need to be replaced. Using feeler gauges with marked points may result in too much clearance. If your points burn in very fast, then check the condenser. Bad condensers often result in high wear of your points.
Thanks Ramon!
thank you
My distributor is so old the adjustment nubs are gone😅 long live the 009!!!
Cool thank you Just what I needed.. perfect view
Thanks mate! Appreciate the feedback. Good luck setting the points!
defective or wrong value (mfd's) condenser will not allow voltage to pass thru to gd so the voltage gos to the points jumps to gd thru open points causing pitting normaly there is no current flow thru points al they are used for is lifting gd off condenser lead as they go open.
Looks easy understand now 🏆 📹 close up clear 👌 👍
Will be BRAVE 💪 💋😘
Project is on my old 1977 Toyota 20 R engine 🛻 pick up. A Chinook RV.
Putting new fail safe thermostat & gasket.
Cleaned flushed radiator.
New water pump & gasket.
New coolant.
Adjusted carb idle & idle mix screws.
Bought USA store, O' Reilly's Auto parts pre- gapped points.......
Will see!?
👋 👍 👌
Great stuff! Sounds like it’s nearly ready to crank over and start up 😎 nice one!
What do I set the points at for 72 Volkswagen beetle
Good no nonsense video
Super cool. Whats your opinion about points vs no-points? Thanks
I’m shortly about to re-launch the channel with a new video series, and I’ll be exploring electronic ignition vs points in the first video. Electronic ignition does appear reliable and requires less maintenance than a regular points & condenser set up. More to come!
@@VWClassicFix awesome! Looking forward !!
Great tutorial.
Thank you Blessings and more Blessings
Thanks Charles
Need a good clean that dizzy 👍🏻
Hi thanx for the tip... asking does that gap go with 1200cc n 1300cc engines? I hav a 66bug 1300
Hi there, yep the point gap is the same across the 1200-1600cc engines. So 1300 will be the same.
If you don't have a feeler gauge, what can be used? A butter knife?
The cardboard tab from a points or condenser box is a similar thickness. This is only to be used if you’re stuck though. Thanks
great video////a great help to me//thanks
My ‘64 bug is not getting up to speed. I was hoping it was the points, but they are set correctly... any suggestions for what else to investigate?
Hi Lori, it could be in need of a tune up. Perhaps a valve adjustment, and general carb check to ensure everything is working properly?
That's was soo great, thank you
Thanks Martin
God bless You many heartfelt thanks!!
Thanks for tuning in!
Great help thanks
Thanks mate!
very helpful, thanks a mill!!!! :-)
Thanks Andre!
Stop rounding off all the tabs.... Close up the gap @ (.010), snug the screw. Put the feeler gauge in the contacts, slowly loosen the screw . The tension on the points will move it on base plate, giving you the gap. Those are 01-030 points, not 01-011 that came in it
it says point gap is 0.4 mm ( 0.016 )....can you please advice if less point gap what will case ?? like 0.2 mm ..thanks
Potentially a poor spark. Thanks
What does this exactly do. My vw is not starting is this an issue that might help my situation
This triggers the coil to fire a high voltage spark, down to the distributor and on to the spark plug. Cheers
I found the contact on my point spring had snapped off so replace the " points "for $16.00
brilliant
Thanks!
adjust the rubbing block ? you are not touch it.
Sorry for video how to set points get a feeler gauge percentage points looks like too much caffeine and this video clean the lobes on the distributor clean the dirt out of distributor check the vacuum advance if it has one and set the points easy as that not rocket science another way to is this your Gap is 16 thousands then a 15 will be loose and a 17 will be too tight 16 will be just right 😉