Go with what wiseco says. I run wiseco pistons in a g54b Mitsubishi station. Haven't had any trouble with what wiseco said to run. Cranks out about 350 hp to the rear wheels.
@@GarageFab Standard bore size is 3.346" (if I remember correctly). Which comes out to about .017". Although I run .021" of gap on most of the 4g63's I've built just to be safe. There is slightly more blow by but works well in the 400-600whp range. With a little extra ring gap it's peace of mind knowing I can do back to back to back pulls without the ring ends kissing and breaking a ring land.
@@eatmorechicken1064 Almost sounds like you know what you’re talking about. Almost. 😂 I might have to bug you about some stuff as I finish the rebuild. Know anything about turbos?
Now i AM 45 yrs old is time to do some honor to My first truck 621,234 Miles 1991 migthy max truck i Will follow You god bless you grettings from Tecate b.c México.
Wow! Over 600k! Proof that cars will last forever if you take care of them. Thank you for your time my friend! 🙏 I can’t wait to see what you do with your Mighty Max. 🙌
Just found your channel and it's great, keep up the awesome videos. Had to drop in to this ones comments as I've had multiple 4G63 cars and can't help myself. Loose ring gaps aren't a problem and will protect you from breaking a ring land. I've ran up to 0.030" without an issue on the 4G63. Make sure the second ring gap is slightly larger though to prevent flutter. For what it is worth, replace the rod and head bolts with some ARP bolts/studs, run piston to wall clearance and ring gap on the loose ends of factory spec and the 2nd Gen 4G63 can pretty easily handle 500+ WHP and 450 ft-lbs of torque on the stock pistons and rods. I will say though, crank walk is real and it looked like that motor might have the start of it. Leaky piston oil squirters will kill your oil pressure... As for turbo, the stock T25 is pretty weak. The thrust bearing is garbage in them and breaks easily causing the wheels to run into the housings. If you just want like 350HP, a T28 can get there and you can get them with upgraded bearings. I'm sure there are even better options these days but it's a fun turbo that's direct bolt in.
Thank you for all that! The engine is mostly assembled (with the exception of the timing belt, oil pan, valve cover, etc.) Happy to say I did purchase ARP head bolts (Couldn’t get them factory), but I did find some factory rings finally. I don’t recall what problem I had with the bearings but I know that it now has all new main bearings and mostly new rod bearings. (I scratched a couple so I put some of the originals back in 😬) Thank you for the Turbo info!! I need to make or have someone make a custom exhaust header to get the turbo to clear my narrowed frame so I should probably buy one first! Any advice as to where to find them! Is it usually a direct bolt on? Thank you my friend.
Amigo. Mis respetos sos un capo en lo que haces, estoy aprendiendo mucho con tus videos, me encantaría que hubiese más mecánicos youtuber como vos asi aprenderíamos más capo capo capo
The wear in the cylinders, although minute, and the act of removing more material, ie. honing, will make the bores a little bit larger. Using the formula for circle diameter and circumference, a change in diameter yields a 3.14159 times more change in circumference. Therefore, .019 minus .005 is .014. Divide that by 3.14159 and you get .0045. You probably took that much out during honing. If you consider that the radius would change half of that, .00275, that is about how much you took off the surface of the cylinder wall. I have seen hone jobs that did much worse. Good job.
That smells like math! 🤮 I don’t remember where I left off with engine updates, but I think I got everything straightened out. I tracked down some factory rings. Those weren’t cheap. But it’s so situated and ready to go back together. 🙌
Sometime I'd like to see a 1980s square body ranger or Bronco ll with a 2.3 ecoboost motor, or a 1970s f100 with a 3.5 ecoboost. Even the new chevy 4.3 after 2011 in a square body s10, s15, Blazer, Jimmy. I wish I had the knowledge, or money to build something to tick people off. I still tickem off, thats easy, I just wish I had Knowledge, and a cool project to show for it.
Keep it up!! I always love your videos, you know that. Just a thought on the piston rings. Is the motor turbo? Was it turbo stock? I do know that gaps have to be bigger for turbo motors. Is the Chilton for turbo motor and the wisco rings instructions for non turbo? Just somthing to think about. Other than that great work and I cant wait to see the rest!
Yup it's a factory turbo motor. The specs I'm referencing in Chilton's are for a turbo as well. I'm only 80 percent sure that the rings I bought were designated for a turbo motor though. I'll have to double check.
Does the LS qualify as a small block? If so you’ll approve of the next project. (You’ll approve twice!) Let’s start from the beginning: The Mighty Max came with a carbureted four-cylinder that generated what felt like 25 horsepower. I wanted to get my wife more power but I didn’t want to spend a lot of time and money. The 4G63 engine bolts up to the trans that I already had, and the Mighty Max engine mounts bolt up to the block. In theory it’s one of the easiest engine upgrades. (even though I don’t know much about the Mitsubishi engine) The SBC Engine doesn’t fit in Mighty Max without extreme modifications. I put a TPI engine in my first D50. (Same as a Mighty Max) in order to do that I widened the entire truck. Both the frame and body. I didn’t want to do that again.
@GarageFab I put a 5ltr Holden BECAUSE I HAD IT in my 2x2 hilux tray with a falcon diff centre mod running original hilux axles brakes etc.... pretty easy with just a little firewall mod
enginemachineservice.com Guys name is Randy. Super nice guy, knows engines and is a old school Mitsubishi fan. I'm sure he would offer some advice if needed. Be sure to tell him pure_insanity from sqc told you about him.
Amigo. Mis respetos sos un capo en lo que haces, estoy aprendiendo mucho con tus videos, me encantaría que hubiese más mecánicos youtuber como vos asi aprenderíamos más capo capo capo
@@GarageFab podrias mandarme una foo de la camioneta negra que aparece al pricipio de cada video tuyo. tengo una camioneta que la quiero restaurar y me encanta el negro
Go with what wiseco says. I run wiseco pistons in a g54b Mitsubishi station. Haven't had any trouble with what wiseco said to run. Cranks out about 350 hp to the rear wheels.
Thank you, Grant. I'll take your advice. Better safe than sorry. I'd hate to put it all back together and see smoke.
@@GarageFab It's .005" per inch of piston diameter, not .005" of total gap.
I understand. So a gap for a 3” piston would be .015
@@GarageFab Standard bore size is 3.346" (if I remember correctly). Which comes out to about .017". Although I run .021" of gap on most of the 4g63's I've built just to be safe. There is slightly more blow by but works well in the 400-600whp range. With a little extra ring gap it's peace of mind knowing I can do back to back to back pulls without the ring ends kissing and breaking a ring land.
@@eatmorechicken1064 Almost sounds like you know what you’re talking about. Almost. 😂
I might have to bug you about some stuff as I finish the rebuild. Know anything about turbos?
Now i AM 45 yrs old is time to do some honor to My first truck 621,234 Miles 1991 migthy max truck i Will follow You god bless you grettings from Tecate b.c México.
Wow! Over 600k! Proof that cars will last forever if you take care of them. Thank you for your time my friend! 🙏 I can’t wait to see what you do with your Mighty Max. 🙌
Just found your channel and it's great, keep up the awesome videos. Had to drop in to this ones comments as I've had multiple 4G63 cars and can't help myself. Loose ring gaps aren't a problem and will protect you from breaking a ring land. I've ran up to 0.030" without an issue on the 4G63. Make sure the second ring gap is slightly larger though to prevent flutter.
For what it is worth, replace the rod and head bolts with some ARP bolts/studs, run piston to wall clearance and ring gap on the loose ends of factory spec and the 2nd Gen 4G63 can pretty easily handle 500+ WHP and 450 ft-lbs of torque on the stock pistons and rods. I will say though, crank walk is real and it looked like that motor might have the start of it. Leaky piston oil squirters will kill your oil pressure...
As for turbo, the stock T25 is pretty weak. The thrust bearing is garbage in them and breaks easily causing the wheels to run into the housings. If you just want like 350HP, a T28 can get there and you can get them with upgraded bearings. I'm sure there are even better options these days but it's a fun turbo that's direct bolt in.
Thank you for all that! The engine is mostly assembled (with the exception of the timing belt, oil pan, valve cover, etc.)
Happy to say I did purchase ARP head bolts (Couldn’t get them factory), but I did find some factory rings finally.
I don’t recall what problem I had with the bearings but I know that it now has all new main bearings and mostly new rod bearings. (I scratched a couple so I put some of the originals back in 😬)
Thank you for the Turbo info!! I need to make or have someone make a custom exhaust header to get the turbo to clear my narrowed frame so I should probably buy one first! Any advice as to where to find them! Is it usually a direct bolt on?
Thank you my friend.
Amigo. Mis respetos sos un capo en lo que haces, estoy aprendiendo mucho con tus videos, me encantaría que hubiese más mecánicos youtuber como vos asi aprenderíamos más capo capo capo
¡Gracias por tus amables palabras, Mario! Me dan la motivación que tanto necesito. ¡Te aprecio!
The wear in the cylinders, although minute, and the act of removing more material, ie. honing, will make the bores a little bit larger. Using the formula for circle diameter and circumference, a change in diameter yields a 3.14159 times more change in circumference. Therefore, .019 minus .005 is .014. Divide that by 3.14159 and you get .0045. You probably took that much out during honing. If you consider that the radius would change half of that, .00275, that is about how much you took off the surface of the cylinder wall. I have seen hone jobs that did much worse. Good job.
That smells like math! 🤮 I don’t remember where I left off with engine updates, but I think I got everything straightened out. I tracked down some factory rings. Those weren’t cheap. But it’s so situated and ready to go back together. 🙌
@@GarageFab awesome
Taking picture doesn't always work out for me. I need that one photo or angle that I didn't take. Hahaa
Yup. Every time. Quick circle videos help with that a bit. 👍
Awesome video! Wish it was a bit longer
They'll be longer once I get a television deal. 😀
Man when you rebuild engine's
You go into hyper speed.. wish I was that fast..
Lol
Ever watched a video of someone rebuilding at regular speed? 😴
@@GarageFab wait that's not regular speed???? Well now I'm not impressed... 😅
Sometime I'd like to see a 1980s square body ranger or Bronco ll with a 2.3 ecoboost motor, or a 1970s f100 with a 3.5 ecoboost. Even the new chevy 4.3 after 2011 in a square body s10, s15, Blazer, Jimmy. I wish I had the knowledge, or money to build something to tick people off. I still tickem off, thats easy, I just wish I had Knowledge, and a cool project to show for it.
Start with anything my man. I started building custom riding lawnmowers with used parts.
Extremepsi for 4g63 parts all the way
I’ll check ‘em out! Thank you. 🙏
Keep it up!! I always love your videos, you know that.
Just a thought on the piston rings. Is the motor turbo? Was it turbo stock? I do know that gaps have to be bigger for turbo motors. Is the Chilton for turbo motor and the wisco rings instructions for non turbo? Just somthing to think about.
Other than that great work and I cant wait to see the rest!
Yup it's a factory turbo motor. The specs I'm referencing in Chilton's are for a turbo as well. I'm only 80 percent sure that the rings I bought were designated for a turbo motor though. I'll have to double check.
Why did you choose that type of engine....just curious.... I'm a mechanic of 36 years and a sbc man
Does the LS qualify as a small block? If so you’ll approve of the next project. (You’ll approve twice!)
Let’s start from the beginning: The Mighty Max came with a carbureted four-cylinder that generated what felt like 25 horsepower. I wanted to get my wife more power but I didn’t want to spend a lot of time and money. The 4G63 engine bolts up to the trans that I already had, and the Mighty Max engine mounts bolt up to the block. In theory it’s one of the easiest engine upgrades. (even though I don’t know much about the Mitsubishi engine)
The SBC Engine doesn’t fit in Mighty Max without extreme modifications.
I put a TPI engine in my first D50. (Same as a Mighty Max) in order to do that I widened the entire truck. Both the frame and body. I didn’t want to do that again.
@GarageFab I put a 5ltr Holden BECAUSE I HAD IT in my 2x2 hilux tray with a falcon diff centre mod running original hilux axles brakes etc.... pretty easy with just a little firewall mod
Soak em in potassium phosphate, works wonders.
enginemachineservice.com
Guys name is Randy. Super nice guy, knows engines and is a old school Mitsubishi fan. I'm sure he would offer some advice if needed.
Be sure to tell him pure_insanity from sqc told you about him.
Much appreciated.
Amigo. Mis respetos sos un capo en lo que haces, estoy aprendiendo mucho con tus videos, me encantaría que hubiese más mecánicos youtuber como vos asi aprenderíamos más capo capo capo
¡Gracias por tus amables palabras, Mario! Me dan la motivación que tanto necesito. ¡Te aprecio!
@@GarageFab podrias mandarme una foo de la camioneta negra que aparece al pricipio de cada video tuyo. tengo una camioneta que la quiero restaurar y me encanta el negro
¡Por supuesto! Contáctame en Instagram. @GarageFab
@@GarageFab ya soy un seguidor mas, de GARAGEFAB. siiiiii
¡Gracias hermano! Afortunado de tenerte. 🙏