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I tried to reply once already so there may be two posts after this. The red clips can be devils. Don’t tell anyone I told you, but if they break it doesn’t hurt my feelings as long as the connector is good 😂. The metal clips holding the injectors usually pop off with a pocket screwdriver but you have to make sure you block them so they don’t shoot across the room. If you have to break the clip and the connector becomes damaged you can get injector pigtails to replace them.

@raucousflame2325 Cool. Yeah I didn't put the red clips back. But now cylinder 6 code p0206 is coming up. #6 cylinder looks easy to get to.

@@freedomfighter5845 the red clip from the connector? They can be devils. Don’t tell anybody I told you, but it doesn’t hurt my feelings if they break as long as the connector is good 😊. The metal clips can be heavily loaded but a pocket screwdriver will usually release them. Just be sure to block the clip with the other hand because they will shoot across the room if they come off quickly.

@raucousflame2325 I put the injector in cylinder 4. Vehicle drove good till I accelerated. Then it started acting up again. This time is says po206 cylinder 6 open circuit. So I guess I have to take the manifold off again.

Yes. I would even correlate similarities across most of the v6 models made by Daimler Chrysler. Red clips on connectors, upper intake comes off, metal spring clips, plastic intakes, but the only real differences are equipment like egr and power steering reservoirs.

Sometimes that’s a good option as long as they are high quality replacements. Cheap injectors can cause a high voltage spike during field collapse when the injector fires that could cause running conditions or pcm damage.

@@simardssurveillancesystems8209 pull the fuse or relay to the fuel pump and run until it stalls, disconnect the battery so the pump can’t prime again, and cover the fitting with a shop rag as you disconnect it so it’s less likely to spray.

I think I pinned a link to it in the description a long time ago but it’s a snap on 1/4” air ratchet. I mostly use battery powered tools now but the cost may send me back to the old air ratchet before long 😂

I honestly don’t remember now but they are all similar. I want to say that one was between 04’ and 07’.

I would only do the one injector unless I found a fault with the others. Though you could treat it like insurance against the fault occurring again, it is not necessary to do all six. I have never seen the same vehicle return with a second injector failure. On my own vehicle I would do one and then just do the next if it goes bad, when it goes bad. Might as well keep some money in the pocket. 👍

Thanks for the insight. I may add something to the end when I have a chance. It was intended as a guideline as opposed to a how to video in order to keep it short. Just to show what you have to do in order to access the part and replace it. I always reference shop materials or do a google search because differences in model year will affect the torque spec’s. Since it is a broad spectrum video I didn’t include torque specs so that those differences wouldn’t affect the outcome of an individual repair. But I definitely agree it would be helpful and when I have some time I will compare model years to check for differences.

If it is close at hand the Vaseline would make an easier install! Sometimes the gas lets the o-rings drag.

Sorry about that! Thank you for the insight too. Doing this work everyday you kind of get into a groove and don’t think about how a lot of it works. I’ll bear that in mind with any future videos I do. Domestic connectors mostly operate off a hinged system. You depress a tab and it lifts off the locking tab. Sometimes the rubber seals stick and cause the connectors to feel stuck as well. There are a couple options when stuck there. You can unbolt the throttle body to pivot it in order to see the connector or unbolt the throttle body and remove the plenum separately leaving the throttle body resting out of the way. I’ve also been know to grab the wife’s mirror when I can’t find any of mine and use it to get a good look behind stuff. Sometimes I use a right angle pick or pocket screwdriver to lift the tab when I pull difficult connectors. Hope that helps a bit!

Oh and you may be able to take the breather tube lose from the plenum and rotate it on the valve cover even if it has a clamp.

@@raucousflame2325 That's what I did..................... I just removed the TB from the air box and left all the connector plugged in . Thanks for your prompt reply, I could have just as easily still been here sobbing in my hands 🤣

Sounds like you have a lot going on at one time. Start with the basics and set a baseline. Can you smell unburned fuel? If so, it may be flooded. Check for an rpm signal either via the tachometer or a scan tool/blue tooth device. If there’s no rpm reading you may have a bad crank sensor. Will it start if you add fuel, such as a squirt of throttle body spray, into the intake. If it starts when adding fuel then your not getting fuel and should look at the fuel supply system. There are a multitude of things that can cause these conditions. Check all the fuses and take note of any blown so you can trace those circuits if they are involved in powertrain control. As far as melted wiring or connectors. Yes, that happens sometimes when a component fails or the connector terminal get loose. Anytime you’re making a repair and disconnecting parts it’s wise to inspect for signs of heat damage. If only a connector is charred you can get a connector pigtail to replace it. If wiring is burned or melted you’d have to replace all of the wire that has been damaged or the harness. With so many possibilities you’ll have to take your time and narrow things down one system at a time. With a no start you check for spark, air, and fuel. Use the codes as a guide but look for the basics initially. It will help to jot down what you find and test to reference it again later and use the internet to your advantage. You can find many wiring diagrams and repair info floating around out there. Sites like alldatadiy.com (if I remember that correctly) offer a fee to access the information for one vehicle and can help a great deal. And be sure there’s no anti theft light on while cranking. Sometimes keys get magnetically altered or system components fail randomly causing anti theft systems to engage.

@@raucousflame2325hi sir, thanks for ur reply. No it not flooded, it starts sometimes but u got to keep the peddle on gas to keep it running and then I get gas smell .. but after taking off the ignition coil putting new one on it won’t start at all ..the last time I had it started the rpm was jumping…. The throttle body has been off and cleaned and sensor replaced..none of my fuses are being blown…I heard dodge vans are prone to melting…I’m trying to take plugs out now and 3 of them wasn’t gap right, had black wetness to one of them .. I forgot the codes I had from the key turn on dodges one of them diff then advanced auto code reader it has a po202 says 2 injector.. I’m got half of the screws off petium the thing u were taking off I can’t get 2 screws out in back one middle and the one on drive side , bcz the cowl thing is keeping the wrench to unscrew.. the pass side had more clearance… do I need take off PCV valve off too? I unhook the EgR hose and one part has black gritty gunk that looks plugged in hose can that cause issues? I appreciate ur help thanks for ur suggestions…

@@theresam8809 when taking the plenum off you may have to use extensions or swivels to access the back bolts. What model year is your van? Be sure to disconnect the battery and observe safety requirements when making your repair to avoid fuel spraying. P0202 is the injector code and indicates the injector or circuit has failed so once you get to the injector be sure to inspect the connector and wiring. Carbon plugging the egr ports will cause an insufficient flow code and affect emissions but shouldn’t cause stalling. The egr system can stall a vehicle if it is stuck on but it has to have enough flow rate to overwhelm the engine.

@@raucousflame2325 Hi, i tried long extensions but it still in way, my van 2001 it’s 3.3 v 6 sports .. yes sir I do disconnect the battery , but some people that has worked on my cars never do and since they mechanic, I don’t question it.. So that black stuff I wish could show u the pic but to me I’m shocked it didn’t choke system it don’t look like any air could get thru it so caked of it .. Could this cause black smoke from exhaust pipe? How do I clean it out with?? I allowed a random stranger at gas station Put on my new EGR without looking around the erg hoses and it was night and not much lite Why my car wouldn’t stay started tho that was problem I had a code for it bought one.. Should I put the old one back on ? Is there something special u do when putting a new one on? Sorry it just I never had issues like this with car most time it just basic stuff starter alternator batt and belts these new ones it so different.. when I can get to the wires harness if melted or not what type of stuff u wrap them back up with and how do I keep it from manifold?! I heard this is big issues on these idk why they didn’t recall it fix it…, thanks for trying to help me it very much appreciated…

@@theresam8809 the carbon blockage you have can be cleaned by picking it out with a screwdriver or pick tool while holding a vacuum close. You don’t want a lot of carbon falling out of reach if you can help it. Once there’s an opening you can spray it with cleaner and use a bottle brush or pipe cleaner to clear the remaining carbon. Use caution if the plug is on the exhaust side because if a catalyst gets fuel and air it may combust. For the wires, if they are shorted together and burnt you’ll have to cut out the bad wire and splice in new wire. If it’s at the connector you can just install a connector pig tail because connector pig tails come with six inches or so of wire. Heat from the engine can make wire insulation brittle but doesn’t cause melting without a short circuit. The two ways wires usually melt are arcing from lose terminals causing excessive heat and a change in resistance, like a bad injector, causing amperage to rise because voltage generally will remain constant. I would say it’s a good idea to use a high quality injector, ideally from the manufacturer, because you don’t want to go back in for the same repair twice and injectors have to remain strong during the field collapse that occurs when turning off and on. Most people don’t know but when the field collapses in an injector voltage spikes and it differs from vehicle to vehicle. I’ve heard some reach 150V and I’ve seen 100V on some I’ve tested.

Pull the fuel pump fuse and run it until it stalls, then crank it a bit more. Cover any connections with a rag when you remove the lines or injector and wear safety glasses or face shield to avoid any possible spray. The fuel rail will still have fuel present and it will drip/run out on you and the floor so have some towels or a container ready to protect painted surfaces.

Did that fix it? I've got 08 t and c and p0202 misfire cylinder 3 is showing and fuel injector is recommended fix.

Lame he didn't reply. Geez people

Well that depends on the bolts. I can spin a bolt out using an extension and fingers faster than the air ratchet as long as it’s not rusted or binding. Loosen with the ratchet and then spin the extension with the fingers. But the main thing to remember is it isn’t about speed. It’s about accuracy. If you have to do the job twice with an air ratchet but once by hand you’re saving time using hand tools. Saving money too 👍

It’s not bad. Just take pictures while you’re taking it apart so you don’t have to spend a ton of energy memorizing. Organize the bolts in a pattern, put them in a row or something as it comes off.

The cheapest way to find torque specs is to google it. Sometimes they’re easier to find as an image. If you do your own repairs often I would recommend paying for access on alldata.diy or another reputable site. I used them for my own vehicles when I’m away from my work computer. The benefit there is you’ll have access to the same repair information that shops use as well as all the torque specs for each job. Hope that helps!

I would allow 4-5 hours in case you run into a problem. I believe labor time for a mechanic is about 3 hours, maybe 3.5, but don’t hold me to that. It would be a good time to clean the throttle body and maybe spray the valves if you want to go the extra mile. Generally speaking you don’t see a lot of buildup on intake valves unless it’s direct injected, which this van isn’t. If you’re suspicious of a connector issue it would be a good idea to have an injector connector on hand as well.

It is possible to turn an injector that is bolted down but it should not be easy. If it is easy to turn the seals may be bad or the rail may be loose. It may be easier to turn, if one of the valve covers are leaking oil on the injector. Normally a bad injector o-ring will set a lean code so if you have a check engine light on you should get the code or codes out of the system to isolate the problem. If you do not have a lean code and the engine is running normally without any misfires I would leave it alone 😁 no more injector spinning for you!

Facing engine from the front of vehicle. Rear of engine left to right are cylinders 1-3-5. Front of engine left to right are cylinders 2-4-6.

You can look up cylinder identification or firing order for your vehicle. As Billy said, and as far as my memory serves me, Chrysler has placed 1-3-5 near the firewall of most of their front wheel drive engines. Even though I don’t remember it ever being different I always look it up for every vehicle I work on. Cause it’s a pain when you think you’ve got it down and you replace the wrong injector 🤣